ON THE ROOF OF THE WORLD
On Christmas Eve 1905 I had dined with Mr. and Mrs. Grant Duff in the
hospitable English Embassy, and on another day supped with Count
d'Apchier in the French Legation, and was invited to a reception by
Count Rex in the German Embassy,--all in Teheran, now in such a
disturbed state. The same day twelve months later I had still Muhamed
Isa and Robert with me, and we were in inhabited country. Little I
dreamt now that old Asia would demand still another Christmas Eve in my
life, and that on December 24, 1908, I should sit at table amid a circle
of pleasant and intelligent Japanese in distant Mukden, where a few
years before the thunders of war had rolled above the graves of the
Manchurian emperors. But this year, 1907, I was quite alone, and with
twelve satellites on the way to my--Ukraine.
In the morning with a bright sun and calm weather the caravan marched
slowly up towards the heights of Dapsang, while Kutus and I followed in
the crunching snow. I had given Abdul Kerim orders to wait at the top.
After I had read the instruments and found a height of 17,808 feet, I
scoured the horizon with my field-glass--a confusion of snowy mountains.
Only to the north-east a broad erosion furrow sloped gently down, and I
chose that direction.
"Now we leave the Karakorum route and ride eastwards," I said; "follow
my track; I will ride in front." The men stared in astonishment; they
had looked forward to the gardens and vineyards of Khotan, and I offered
them the granite and snowstorms of Chang-tang. They said nothing,
however, but silently and patiently followed in my footsteps. It was not
easy to lead the way, for the country was covered with deep snow. I
directed Kutus, and he went before my horse to test the depth. The
ground was quite level, but contained hollows where the snow lay 3 to 6
feet deep; and the crust was exceedingly treacherous, for sometimes it
broke, and I was thrown out of the saddle, while the horse plunged and
floundered like a dolphin, and was almost suffocated in the fine dry
snow. We therefore turned back to try another direction.
Lobsang, who was always on the alert when we were in a critical
situation, was already looking for a better way. But we must in any case
cross the valley, and the men tramped out a furrow in the snow, through
which the animals were led one at a time. The horses managed best, while
the mules often fell and caused long delays. How far would this snow
extend? It checked our progress and concealed any wretched pasture that
might exist in some ravine. We crawled on like snails. I went on foot,
and my skin coat felt as heavy as lead. But after several hours of hard
toil we reached the terrace skirting the right side of the valley, where
the snow was thinner and we made more progress.
Camp No. 287 was in the most desolate spot I can remember in all my
travels, except the sandy sea of the Takla-makan desert. Behind us our
trail wound through the white snow and in front all was snow. The
animals were tethered close together, and they had a feed of corn in the
evening.
After the day's work was over I lighted two candles--usually I had but
one--and set up the portraits of my family on a box, as I had often done
before on Christmas Eves in Asia. At half-past eight o'clock the moon
rose gloriously over the mountains to the east-north-east, and at nine
the thermometer had sunk to -16.8°. I could not get the temperature
above -4° in my tent, and my hands were so benumbed that I could not
hold a book, but had to crawl into bed, which was the best thing to
do--there one forgets Christmas with all its precious memories and its
melancholy solitude.
The thermometer sank to -37.5°. A horse lay frozen hard in his place in
the line; the others stood stupefied, with drooping heads, and great
icicles on their noses. Christmas Eve brought us good weather. I almost
longed for a snowstorm. We had no fear of pursuit, but if a Turkestan
caravan now went down to Kizil-unkur, the men would see our trail in the
snow and report that we were off to Tibet. A snowstorm would obliterate
all traces.
Meanwhile we stumbled on eastwards through the snow. A spring supplied
water where all the animals got a drink. We halted in a ravine with
tufts of _yapchan_ (17,087 feet). The animals made greedily for the dry
hard stalks, which also provided us with a grand fire, and this evening
it was warm and comfortable in my tent. I rejoiced to think that the
days would again become longer, and subtracted the length of each day's
march from the distance between us and the Tong-tso. Ah, would we were
there! And there we should be only on the northern margin of the blank
space. What an immensely long way we had to travel!
Next day we followed the same flat valley eastwards between mountains of
moderate height, making use of a path worn down by Pantholops antelopes.
The snow became less deep and was only occasionally troublesome, usually
covered with a crust as dry as parchment. When we had encamped in a
perfectly barren spot, I consulted with Abdul Kerim. Only two sacks of
barley were left. I saw that he had been weeping, and therefore I
restrained my wrath. The others, too, were astonished and doleful. I had
not yet said anything to them, but they understood that there was no
question of Khotan. The men had _tsamba_ for nearly three months and
rice for two. I therefore ordered that some should be given to the
horses when the barley was finished, but enough should be left for the
men to last two months. The others gathered outside the tent during the
consultation. Lobsang was calm and unconcerned, and could be heard
singing and whistling as he watched the animals. I took to him most,
perhaps because he was a Tibetan; but I liked them all, for they were
capital fellows. In the evening they sang hymns to Allah, knowing that
our situation was exceedingly critical.
Next day we started early, and I rode at the head of the caravan. We all
had severe headaches, but the height was enormous (17,644 feet). We had
marched little more than a mile when we found sparse grass in a slight
hollow on the northern slopes. That was a Christmas box. Here we pitched
our camp. The animals ran up to the pasture with their loads on. How
they ate! It was a pleasure to see them. Suen cut ridiculous capers
between the tents. The men were in high spirits. I heard no more hymns
to Allah, but the caravan bashi, who seemed to think he was in some
degree responsible for the spiritual welfare of all the Mohammedans,
usually read every evening at sunset one of the five daily prayers. Our
supply of fuel was at an end, but Lobsang found a hard moss which burned
for a long time and gave out plenty of heat. Now I perceived that when
we should some time part, I should miss Lobsang most.
On December 28, leaden clouds lay over the earth, and therefore the cold
was less severe. We continued our course eastwards, and marched slowly
till we came to a spring, which at the orifice had a temperature of
33.6°. The water felt quite warm; it formed large cakes of ice in the
flat valley, which looked from a distance like a lake. While the men set
up the tents here, Puppy, as usual, took charge of her young ones in a
folded piece of felt. One of them had a white spot on the forehead and
was my especial favourite, for he never whined unnecessarily. To-day he
had opened his eyes and given a short glance at the cold inhospitable
world around him. However, before my tent was ready, he died quite
suddenly, and was buried under some stones that the yellow dog might not
eat him up. Mamma Puppy looked for him, but soon contented herself with
the last of the four. We would do all we could to keep this little
creature.
On the way to the next camping-place, No. 292, we still followed the
same blessed valley which had afforded us such an excellent route since
Christmas Eve. The minimum temperature had fallen to -21.8°, as though a
cold wave were passing over the country. At one place some wild yaks had
left their visiting cards, and the men collected a sack of dung.
Evidently these animals come hither only in summer; the winter is too
cold even for them. A mule died before we reached a spring surrounded by
fair grazing. So far we had got on well, but had made little progress;
on the past six days we had covered only 47 miles.
December 30. With a minimum of zero and a temperature at one o'clock of
3.2° the range between day and night is not great. But now the sky was
covered with dense clouds; it snowed and became half dark; the men could
not tell in which direction they were marching, and asked where the sun
rose. We had the help of the longitudinal valley for another day's
journey, and we followed it down to a junction of valleys where there
was a huge sheet of ice. On the way I saw a flock of twenty-two wild
sheep, which fled with great agility up a slope of detritus, bringing
the stones rattling down.
In the evening I informed Abdul Kerim, Gulam, and Kutus that we were to
advance into Tibet and steer our course past the Arport-tso to the upper
Brahmaputra. And I told them that I should travel in disguise in order
to escape notice. They were amazed, and asked if I should not expose my
life to danger daily; but I calmed them, saying that all would go well
if they only obeyed my orders implicitly. Our chief concern was to
preserve our animals, for if the caravan were lost we should never get
on. "Yes," answered the caravan bashi, "if we only find good pasture, so
that the animals can rest and eat their fill, we can certainly hold out
for two months, but they will not bear long marches."
Here we stood at a parting of the roads. Our valley opened into another,
which came down from high mountains in the south, part of the Karakorum
range. The united streams continued their course northwards, and could
not be any other river but the upper course of the Karakash Darya; in
its lower valley on the Khotan Darya I had many years before almost
lost my life. Now the question was whether we should go up or down, and
we decided to devote the last day of the year to finding out which was
the better road, sending out Abdullah to reconnoitre south-eastwards,
Tubges north-eastwards. As in any case we should have to cross the ice
sheet, a path was sanded.
We packed the 6000 rupees Colonel Dunlop Smith had sent from India in
two sacks, which were lighter than the wooden boxes, and these were to
be used as firewood some time when all else failed. At every camp our
baggage became lighter, as our provisions diminished, and I threw away
one book after another after I had read them. I had received from home
the numbers of a Swedish journal for half a year, and these were very
useful in lighting our camp-fires. We had still nine sheep left, but the
time was fast approaching when our meat supply would come to an end, for
we could hardly reckon on finding game so soon.
New Year's Day 1908 was bright and sunny--a good omen as regarded the
dark riddles this year concealed. The two scouts returned with the same
report: that there were no obstacles in the way; and I let them discuss
the question themselves, and decide which way was the best. They chose
Abdullah's route, which led up the valley south-eastwards. The road here
was excellent. At the mouth of the valley we found a couple of small
round stone walls, which, however, might very well have been a hundred
years old. The sight of a dead yak had an enlivening effect on us,
contradictory as it may sound. Higher we mounted to where a lofty snow
mountain with glaciers could be seen at the end of the valley. Then we
stopped, and scouts were sent forwards. They declared that the way was
impassable, and voted that Abdullah should be thrashed. But as such
measures would have been of no use to us in our difficulty he got off
with a good scolding. He admitted that he had not been so far up as we
were now, yet on his return he had asked for, and been given, a bit of
tobacco for his reconnoitring work. I told him that he had done a mean
trick, and that he should never see the smoke of my tobacco again.
There was nothing to do but pitch our camp. A strong south-west wind
blew, and fine snow was driven down from all the crests and summits.
When the men went out to gather fuel they looked like Polar explorers.
After all, New Year's Day had brought us no good luck, but, on the
contrary, a retreat.
This was commenced early on the morning of January 2, and we passed
again camp 293, and marched onwards over slopes of detritus on the
eastern side of the ice sheet. At one spot spring water formed a little
bubbling fountain in the midst of the ice. After the valley had turned
to the east-north-east we encamped in a corner where driftsand was piled
up into hillocks.
I wanted to get out of this labyrinth of mountains and valleys which
pour their waters into Eastern Turkestan. We were still in the basin of
the Karakash river, and must sooner or later cross a pass separating it
from the salt lakes of the Chang-tang. On the 3rd we again mounted up
one of the head valleys and camped in its upper part, while the country
was enveloped in a furious snowstorm. It continued till late in the
evening, and what was most remarkable was that the stars shone all the
time though the snow was falling thickly. Before, there had been
blue-black clouds above us without a snowflake. Extraordinary land!
Next day we rested. The animals had been without drink for a long time,
fuel was abundant, ice was taken from the river bed and melted in pots.
In this region the mountains are less continuous, and form sharp peaks
and pyramids of small relative height. It snowed all night, but the
morning of January 5 was fine as we travelled eastwards along the route
Kutus had investigated. It led up over snow-covered ground to a small
pass (17,995 feet), on the other side of which another branch of the
Karakash crossed our course. We must get out of this entanglement, which
delayed our march and told on our strength. As long as the animals kept
up we had nothing to complain of. I was glad of every day that brought
us a little nearer to spring and out of the winter's cold. It penetrated
through everything. My feet had no feeling in them. Gulam rubbed them
and massaged me in the evening over the fire, but could not bring them
to life. The ink was turned into a lump of ice and had to be thawed
before the fire; when I wrote I had to bend over the brazier, and still
the ink congealed in the pen and froze on the paper. Singularly enough I
have still an unquenchable desire for ice-cold water and prefer it to
warm tea, but the water we usually get is far from pleasant. It is
generally Tubges who takes a spade and fills an empty sack with snow,
and then melts it in a kettle. Gulam tries to persuade me to drink tea,
and cannot understand how it is that I am not sick of water. It is no
use being thirsty in the night: a cup of water standing near the brazier
is frozen to the bottom in a quarter of an hour.
After a temperature of -28° and a stormy night, which drove the animals
to seek shelter in the men's tent, we crossed the broad valley up to the
next pass. We left a lofty snow-covered mountain to the south. At the
foot of a hill a wild yak was musing. When he saw our dark train against
the white snow he made straight towards us, but before long he took his
way through the valley and dashed in wild flight to the north, followed
by our two dogs. It was very encouraging to find something living in
this God-forgotten wilderness; for now we had lost even the raven.
It was a steep and slow ascent up to the pass, which had a height of
18,005 feet. We were surprised to find that it was a snow limit, for
east of the pass there was no snow at all. As we descended the other
side along a broad, open, sandy valley we had to be careful that we did
not find ourselves without water in the evening. Far to the south
appeared an ice sheet, but it lay too far out of our course. We
therefore filled two sacks with snow from the last drift, encamped where
thin tufts afforded fuel, and sent five men with all the animals
southwards to the ice in search of water and fodder.
The water question now became pressing, for apparently we could not
count on snow much farther. And we could not dig for water, as before,
for the ground was frozen into stone. We must therefore proceed
cautiously. We had a great open wilderness in front of us; we must make
our way from one point of support to another, and explore the routes in
advance, lest we might come to a catastrophe. I therefore gave orders
that, now that the loads were considerably smaller, a couple of our
animals should carry snow or ice. At every camp we left an empty
meat-tin. I think less of the time soon approaching when the excellent
goods from Simla will come to an end than of the fact that the burdens
of our animals are daily becoming lighter. The rock specimens I collect
do not weigh much. Of course the provender has long given out, but where
the pasturage is scanty or altogether absent, loaves of parched meal are
kneaded together for the animals.
The men are to come back on the 7th, and we wait for them till mid-day.
There, too, they come: the black group is plainly visible; they march
and march, but come no nearer. Ah, it is only some black stones dancing
in the mirage. A little later Suen reports that some of the animals have
run away, and consequently we have to remain the whole day at this
dismal camp.
How slowly the hours pass on a day like this! I am a prisoner in my own
tent, for cold and wind keep me from work out of doors. As long as the
sun is above the horizon I pass the time very comfortably, for I can see
the mountains, these silent, dreary, lonely mountains, where men never
wander, and I see the sandspouts whirling along before the wind. But
when the sun sets, the long winter evening begins, and I hear only the
howl of the storm without. Patience! Spring will come some time. Every
day that passes we are a step farther from this horrible winter. Brown
Puppy and her whelp keep me company, and I look upon them as comrades in
misfortune. She has her mat in a corner of the tent, and takes her meals
when I do. The whelp we call Black Puppy amuses me immensely. He has
begun to take notice of the world and the life around him. When the big
dogs bark outside the tent, he turns his head and gives a feeble growl.
When his mother leaves him on the mat in the cold, he makes an attempt
at a bark and seems to think it strange. He wanders about the tent,
though he is still so unsteady on his legs that he constantly topples
over. He has already conceived a highly salutary respect for the
brazier, and sniffs and shakes his head when he chances to come too near
it. Sometimes it happens that he misses his mother in the night, when
there may be as many as 54 degrees of frost in the tent; but his
complaining squeal awakens me, and I take him under the furs--an
attention he is very fond of. One morning he wakened me by crawling of
his own accord on to my pillow and trying to get into my bed. After that
I felt no concern about his future; he must learn how to make his way in
life, and that he was doing.
On the 8th we went over a small pass 17,569 feet high. A horse and a
mule perished on the way. Camp 299 was pitched where the first pasture
was found, in a valley on the other side (16,946 feet). There was no
water, but we had four sacks of ice. Seven sheep were left, and the
raven had also come again.
The aim of our next day's journey was to find water for the animals. My
trusty white Ladaki horse, which I always rode, used to get my washing
water every morning, and I used no soap that I might not spoil it for
him. From a small rise in the ground we were able to enjoy the view I
had so longed for--the great open plain we had crossed in the autumn of
1906. To the east-south-east I easily recognized the spur we passed
then, and we could not be more than two days' march from the Aksai-chin
lake. I had now followed for several days much the same route as Crosby,
and at the lake I should cross my own route of 1906, after which we
should go down towards the Arport-tso, and, as last year, intersect the
paths of Bower, Deasy, Rawling, and Zugmeyer.
The whole country lay under a vault of dense clouds. After a march of
only 3 miles we found a flowing spring of beautiful water (33°), where
camp No. 300 (16,329 feet) was pitched. In the evening my servants sang
bright and happy melodies again, and Suen performed his most ridiculous
dances. We were again up on the roof of the world, and all dreary Tibet
lay in front of us. Should we be able to cross it with our little
caravan?