FROM DUTOITSPAN TO MUSEMANYANA.
Preparation for second
journey--Travelling-companions--Departure--A diamond--A lovely
evening--Want of water--A conflagration--Hartebeests--An
expensive draught--Gassibone’s kraal--An adventure with a
cobra--A clamourous crowd--A smithy--The mission-station
at Taung--Maruma--Thorny places--Cheap diamonds--Pelted by
baboons--Reception at Musemanyana.
In the course of the six months that I now spent in Dutoitspan, I made
acquaintance, amongst my patients, with three German families, all
nearly related, who were of great assistance to me in my preparations
for my second journey into the interior. It was, in fact, owing to the
kindness of the head of one of these households that, after I had got
together all but 120_l._ of the 900_l._ that the expenses
of the expedition would require, I was enabled to procure on credit
from one of the mercantile houses of Dutoitspan goods to the amount of
117_l._, for which I should otherwise have had to pay ready money;
thus I was in a position to start four weeks before the time that I had
originally contemplated.
[Illustration: A MOONLIGHT EVENING IN THE FOREST.
_Page 216._]
My friend Eberwald, after trying his luck as a diamond-digger in
the Old de Beer’s mine with indifferent success, had returned, and
expressed his willingness to accompany me again. He said that he should
like to see a bit more of Africa, and would assist me in any way he
could. I offered him what he had undertaken before--the supervision of
the waggon, an office which he executed conscientiously and well.
It was not by any means my intention that this should be my chief
journey. I rather regarded it as a second trial trip, on a more
extensive scale than the first. I contemplated making it cover half the
distance between the diamond-fields and the Zambesi, but I meant it to
be only a further preparation for an expedition right away into Central
Africa.
Amongst my patients I had come across a young man, a native of Silesia,
who seemed a likely man to assist me, and who professed himself quite
ready to accompany my party. He was considerably involved in debt;
but in order to secure his services, I became security with his
creditors. Finding, however, his obligations all wiped off, he suddenly
disappeared altogether. At the time when the diamond-fields were full
of doubtful characters, such incidents were by no means uncommon.
There was my other young friend, F., who was quite in the mind to go
with us again. My experience of his character rather made me hesitate
at renewing any engagement; but yielding to Eberwald’s intercession on
his behalf, I consented to give him another chance of showing whether
he could be relied on.
As a third associate Eberwald introduced me to a friend of his, Herr
Boly, a Hanoverian, of whom he spoke in the highest terms. I was quite
ready to attend to the recommendation, and I am happy to add that I
never had the least cause to regret admitting him of our number.
A liberal friend had kindly provided me with a team of eight oxen and a
Griqua driver, so that on the whole I was far better equipped than on
my previous journey. I had also procured a sextant, the use of which
was explained to me by an old ship’s officer, but unfortunately I was
unable to turn either the instrument, or the instruction I had received
about it, to much account, as I was baffled in all my inquiries to
obtain a copy of the Nautical Almanack.
It was on the 3rd of November, 1873, that our party left Dutoitspan: it
consisted of myself, Eberwald, Boly, F., and the Griqua, besides nine
dogs, including my faithful Niger, my saddle-horse, and the eight oxen.
I made my way to Klipdrift by the shortest route, designing thence
to travel up the Vaal Valley to Hebron, whence I intended to turn off
short to Gassibone’s town, and continue my journey on to Taung, the
residence of the Batlapin king Mankuruane, which I had been unable to
reach before. In this way I should explore the right-hand bank of the
Vaal in parts that would be new to me, and I should cross Gassibone’s
district from south to north, whereas previously I had traversed it
from the west, somewhat towards the east.
Our first day brought us to Old de Beer’s farm. On the following
morning we came to some dilapidated remains a few miles from the
site of the mission-house near the station at Pniel, to which I have
already alluded. Before beginning to descend to the river, I noticed a
depression in the plateau, now transformed into a lake nearly square,
and about half a mile across; a number of black storks and cranes were
enjoying themselves at the edge of the water. We went on by the road
recently hewn by the convicts through the rocks, thus avoiding the
loose sand that had given us so much trouble on our previous journey,
arriving at night at the spot where, in February, we had endured so
much discomfort. To my surprise I found the roads in a much better
condition than they were then, and after about six hours’ travelling,
we reached the bank of the river next morning; but we had somehow or
other sustained the loss of two of our dogs.
The water was so low that the ferry-man declined, on account of the
weight of the waggon, to take us across the river in his boat, but
pointed out to us a ford lower down, by which we could cross. We did
not forget our experiences on Easter Day, and accordingly set about
our proceedings very circumspectly. The river was now reduced to a
channel scarcely twenty feet wide and hardly more than two feet deep,
but although on either side the bed was full of great boulders of
greenstone as large as one’s head, it was here smooth and sandy, so
that we crossed with perfect ease, and made our halt near Klipdrift, on
the other side.
While we were resting, Pit, our Griquaman, surprised me by bringing me
a diamond weighing about a quarter of a carat. During the time the oxen
were grazing he had been lying on the ground rummaging over some sand
that had been left as sifted by the diggers, and his trouble had been
rewarded by the discovery of the little stone, which I was very pleased
to accept as an addition to my collection; but some time afterwards I
was grieved to find that I had lost it, when or how I could never tell.
Starting again the same evening, we travelled on till it was quite
late, leaving the Vaal, which took a bend to the south-south-east, on
our right. The road lay over bushy heights, covered with rocks and
crowned with alluvial flats often a mile in length, and separated by
tracts of soil of the same character, sloping down towards the river.
About four o’clock on the afternoon of the 7th we arrived at Hebron,
but passed on without stopping, as I wanted, while it was still
daylight, to reach the spot where we should have to leave the Hebron
and Christiana road, and turn off towards Gassibone. Even in the few
months since we were here the town had manifestly gone still further
to decay. The bad state of the roads compelled us to stop sooner than
I intended, and we did not start next morning until we had met with a
young Batlapin, who agreed to act as guide. At noon we took our rest
under the shade of a spreading mimosa, after which we made an unusually
long march, and encamped for the night in the open plateau.
A landscape of peculiar beauty lay outstretched around us. The Hebron
heights and their dark spurs veiled in purple haze bounded the horizon
to the south and west, whilst to the north and east the vast plains
were shrouded in the distance by a deepening tint, a sure token that
the night would be one of those that in South Africa are ever to be
remembered for their splendour. A soft air was swaying the flowery
grass, of which the seeds had been sown by the wind and imbedded in
the soil by the feet of the game. A beauteous tint began to tinge its
surface, and soon a gorgeous stream of sunlight broke forth, its golden
rays illuminating the far-off east. Was not that the direction of my
cherished home? Was it not irradiating the very scenes of my childhood
and beaming on the dwellings of my kindred? I sunk into tender
contemplation, and our camp, the plain, the watchfire, Gassibone, nay,
Africa itself, were all forgotten! It was a peaceful evening, followed
by a peaceful night, as if to fortify us for the anxiety which we
little expected on the morrow.
The figure of our black driver passed between me and the glowing
light, and recalled me to myself. It was time to retire; the oxen
that had been grazing at a distance had returned, and of their own
accord had reclined on the ground close to the waggon; spreading
out our coverings, all of us lay down upon the grass, and sheltered
by its stems and breathing its fragrance, we were soon enjoying our
well-earned slumber.
In good time next morning we were again on our way. Judging from what
the guide told me, I reckoned that the distance to Gassibone’s quarters
must be about thirty-five miles, but I was somewhat disconcerted on
hearing that on our way we should find water extremely scarce. It was
some satisfaction to know that we had a sufficient supply for our
mid-day meal, but any intermediate draught to quench our thirst between
times, was not to be thought of.
Proceeding east by north we soon came to a region where we could well
believe our guide when he told us that not a drop of rain had fallen
for months, and the further we advanced the more parched and yellow
did the grass become; though the spring was coming on, we saw but few
sprouting blades, and as we went on we found fewer still; the young
leaves of the amaryllis, too, that had sprung up here and there, were
quite withered by the drought.
A gradual ascent led us up a small plateau, vegetation still becoming
more and more scanty. A light breeze swayed the tall dry grass-stems
like a field of corn and was hailed by us with delight as it moderated
the heat, and gave a sort of freshness to our fevered lips. The oxen
had not tasted water for thirty hours; their languor was excessive,
and up hill they could only climb at a snail’s pace. For two hours
we patiently followed the footpath, our guide informing us that when
we reached the highest point of the ascent, we should have to bend
a little to the right, and should then come upon some wheel-tracks
made by the waggons loaded with wood, which the morena (king) would
generally allow to pass through his territory to the diamond-fields.
By following these tracks, always keeping to the left, and travelling
without stopping, we might perhaps reach some native huts in the course
of the night. It could not be said that the communication was very
encouraging.
We were obliged to take a short rest, and while we were looking about
us, we noticed a thick cloud overhanging the plains. Every one, natives
included, settled that it was a huge swarm of locusts. I was occupied
with my own matters, and soon forgot all about it. A sudden cry from
one of the people in the waggon very shortly afterwards recalled my
attention to what we had seen, and on looking again I beheld a sight
that could not fail to fill me with amazement and alarm. The plain
right in front of us, over which we were on the point of passing, was
one sheet of flame. The cloud that we had observed turned out to be a
volume of smoke rising above the bushwood, that was all on fire. The
conflagration was perhaps five miles from us, but it was exactly across
our path, and we might well feel dismayed.
The first among us to regain composure was our temporary guide, who
pointed out that the waggon-tracks of which he had spoken were hardly
twenty yards ahead; at least, we could reach them. We looked to the
right; we looked to the left: on the right the ground was level, but
it only led to a chain of hills, the base of which was already licked
by the flames; on the left was a hollow which was just beginning to
catch fire, and beyond it a little hillock some forty feet high. Our
perplexities seemed only to increase; the oxen were too weary to allow
us for one moment to think of retreating; they could not hold out for a
mile; and yet something must be done; the fire was manifestly advancing
in our very face. We discussed the possibility of setting fire to the
bushwood close in front of us, and thus, as it were, forestalling the
flames; but the scheme was not to be thought of; the waggon, which
contained some thousands of cartridges, 300 lbs. of gunpowder, besides
a quantity of spirits, was already so heated by the sun that we could
scarcely lay our hands upon it; a single spark of fire would in an
instant involve it in complete destruction, and the risk was too great.
[Illustration: THE PLAINS ON FIRE.
_Page 225._]
My eye still rested upon the little hill. I saw that the wind was
blowing the flames in a direction away from it, and aware that delay
would be fatal, and that some action must be taken, I gave my decision
that at all hazards we must make for it. Every one agreed that I was
right, and, rushing to their posts, did what they could to urge on the
bullocks without a moment’s loss of time. Mounting my horse, I hurried
on in front, but on reaching the hollow that had to be crossed before
the place of safety upon the hill could be gained, I almost gave a cry
of despair on seeing its character; it was not only overgrown with
bushwood and very steep, but was strewn in all directions with huge
blocks of stone: if only the waggon-wheel should strike against one of
these, who could doubt the consequences?
With all his might, Boly cracked his whip and shouted vigorously, and
succeeded in making the oxen drag the waggon with unexpected speed;
they were all flecked with foam as they pulled their oscillating load
behind them; every moment it seemed as if it must overbalance. At
the bottom of the hollow it was absolutely necessary to take a rest;
the beasts must have time to recover from their exertions; they were
all more or less torn by the bushes, and my friends, too, were much
scratched about the hands and face. The heat was becoming intense. My
horse was not naturally a nervous animal, but it trembled till it could
hardly stand, and the hardest part of our struggle had yet to come.
A flake of fire fell within fifteen yards of us, and warned us that
it was time to be on the move. “Hulloh an! Hulloh an!” roared the
driver, and the bullocks once again strained themselves to their
work. Scarcely, however, had they gone ten paces, when the smoke
puffed against their eyes, and all bewildered, they swerved into a
track where the waggon must inevitably have been overturned; it was a
critical moment, but happily one of my party, who was walking at my
side, saw the danger, and, rushing at the heads of the leaders, turned
them by a desperate effort into the right direction. The instinct of
self-preservation now redoubled every one’s efforts; onwards we pushed,
through clouds of smoke, amidst falling ashes, amongst fragments of
red-hot bark, till we were within fifty yards of the place of safety.
So heated was the atmosphere, that I momentarily expected to see the
canvas of the waggon break out into a blaze.
The bullocks once more gasped and tottered beneath their yoke; with
painful toil they made their way for another thirty yards; it was
doubtful whether they could accomplish the remaining twenty.
One more moment of rest, followed by one more frantic paroxysm of
exertion, and all was safe! Just in time we reached the hill that
overlooked a hollow, beyond which was the expanse of black burnt grass.
I ungirthed my horse, my people all flung themselves exhausted on the
ground; their faces were crimson with heat; their limbs were bruised by
their frequent falls; their eyes seemed starting from their sockets.
Poor Pit, who had scrambled along with the front oxen, had his shirt
torn from his back, and his chest was smeared with blood from many a
wound, but fortunately none that was very deep.
The fatigue and excitement that we had undergone demanded some repose,
but the miseries of the thirst we were enduring did not permit us
to wait long. As soon as possible we started off again; we had no
difficulty in finding the proper tracks; and fortunately for our
worn-out team, which had to pause about every hundred yards, the ground
was quite level. Evening began to draw on; to alleviate our sufferings
we were obliged to moisten our burning lips with vinegar; we were
too depressed to speak, and kept a moody silence. Once Pit broke the
stillness by calling out to us to look to the right; we raised our eyes
just to notice that three hartebeests were almost in the road before
us; but so excessive was our languor that no one seemed to care that
they were there.
While I was in Africa three kinds of hartebeest antelopes came under
my observation. The common hartebeest, found throughout South Africa,
as far as the Zambesi, but most frequently in the bushy parts of the
southern and central districts; the sesephi, or Zulu hartebeest, which
is found in the same districts, but north of the Zambesi as well; and a
third species, which appears closely allied to the common hartebeest.
I shall have occasion hereafter to refer to the sesephi, which in
various respects resembles the buntbock; but I may here say a few words
about the hartebeest proper.
[Illustration: HARTEBEEST.]
From the effect of its elongated head and angular horns, the common
hartebeest may perhaps be pronounced the ugliest of all the antelopes.
I myself found it most frequently between the Vaal and the Soa Salt
Lake, though I was told that it is quite common in the east and
north-east of the Transvaal, and in the northern parts of Cape Colony.
Being less timid than other kinds, it is more exposed to destruction;
it lives in small herds, often inhabiting the same districts as the
striped gnu. The probable reason of its comparative rarity in the
more northern regions of Central South Africa is that the Bamangwatos
are especially partial to its skin for their dresses, and it has
consequently been much sought for, till its numbers have diminished.
[Illustration: HEAD OF THE HARTEBEEST (_Antilope Caama_).]
In places where trees are not too numerous, it is generally hunted
on horseback. When pursued, its motion is very awkward, probably on
account of the unusual height of the shoulders. Although this species
of hartebeest (_Antilope Caama_) is the commonest of the three
kinds I have mentioned, I am under the impression that it is a rarity
in European menageries; indeed, I am not aware that the transZambesi
kind has ever been represented there at all. In the country of the
central Bechuanas, and in the forests, they are approached under cover
of the foliage, and are usually found on the borders of glades, and
anywhere where there is a tolerably open range for their view. By white
hunters they are often chased promiscuously with elephants, ostriches,
and other wild game.
So obscured were all the waggon-tracks by the ashes left by the
fire, that it was a matter of no little difficulty for our guide to
distinguish the proper way towards the native settlements. The trials
of the day seemed never coming to an end. Our thirst became more and
more painful, our throats being parched, and our tongues cleaving to
our mouths. Our sufferings enforced a melancholy silence. Any hope we
had entertained that the heat would moderate as daylight waned, proved
quite fallacious, as the evening was exceptionally hot, and the breeze
that had been blowing was completely lulled. At last, however, the
distant baying of some dogs caught our ear, and never was any sound
more welcome; and when, soon afterwards, the monotonous chant of the
native girls, accompanying themselves on their wooden castanets, could
be distinguished, it was as music unsurpassed in sweetness. Here at
length was the promise of relief from our tortures.
[Illustration: WOODS AT THE FOOT OF THE MALAU HEIGHTS.
_Page 231._]
Lights from the hut-fires were soon visible. Leaving the waggon
standing unguarded where it was, every one of us, guide included,
rushed impatiently to the huts. A lot of yelping curs ran out to meet
us; the singing of the women ceased, and one solitary man advanced in
our direction, evidently astonished that a waggon should be passing
at such an hour. Seizing him by the arm, I shouted in his ear, “Meci,
meci;” startled by my vehemence he uttered a loud cry, probably of
alarm, for our black guide burst into a fit of laughter. However,
I had made him understand me, and he went into his hut, whence he
soon returned, bringing a huge horn full of stinking stuff, which he
declared was his entire supply of water, and for which he demanded
half-a-crown. Neither in quality nor in quantity did this suffice
us, and after some further parleying, we made him comprehend what we
wanted, when he and two of his wives brought us out some bowls of milk,
which we speedily emptied. After our thirst was thus quenched we began
very shortly to have a sense of hunger, and lost no time in kindling a
good fire and getting a leg of mutton, which we watched while it was
roasting. We sat and talked over the steppe-burning, and our happy
deliverance from our alarming predicament. To the south we could still
see the glow in the sky, which made it certain that the fire was not
yet subdued in that quarter.
These fires occasionally arise from accidents, and from carelessness,
but in districts where there are few shrubs and trees to be injured,
the farmers in dry winters not unfrequently purposely set fire to
the steppes, with the object, they say, of promoting the growth of
the grass. It is known, too, that ostrich-hunters were formerly in
the habit of causing these conflagrations so as to get a crop of
tender-sprouting grass, which is always attractive to the birds, who
delight in the young herbage. Fires of this kind are likewise to be
seen from time to time amongst the low scap- (sheep-) bushes, rarely
exceeding eighteen inches high, on the plains both in the Colony and
the Free State, and on dark nights the glowing streaks that mark the
heavens are thus accounted for.
We had hardly travelled half an hour next morning before we discovered
that the waggon-tracks that we had been following had brought us into
the same road that we had used on our previous journey from Gassibone
to the Vaal. Our good-natured guide here took leave of us, and we
descended one of the passes leading to Gassibone’s kraal. The defile
was wide, but became much narrower at the farther end; the sides,
although they were covered with luxuriant vegetation, yet permitted
the terrace-like stratification of the hills to be distinctly traced.
The flat parts were overgrown with wild mimosas, and had an aspect not
unlike the cherry-gardens planted on our own hillsides in Europe.
It was about noon when we reached the kraal. Passing through it, we
encamped under some trees in a hollow close to the bed of a torrent.
The ground was covered with a rich sward that on account of its
sheltered situation and its proximity to the water had retained a
pleasant freshness.
Proceeding along one of the passes beyond the settlement, we ascended
some high land, whence we could see that dark clouds were beginning to
gather. Pit told us that the rain for which we had longed so much was
certainly now coming, and after a short consultation, we decided to
halt at once, and unyoked our oxen about three miles after starting.
Pit was right enough; the clouds rolled on in rapidly increasing
masses, and before another hour had passed the rain came down in such a
deluge as I have rarely seen before or since. We would have given much
for such a downpour on the previous day.
The storm lasted for about two hours; it took some time for the water
to clear off; but when it ceased to foam along in torrents, and began
to trickle down more gently from the hillsides, we thought we might
venture to proceed another stage, though it was getting on towards
sundown. The defile along which we passed was quite narrow, except in
one or two places where it opened out into a plain. Niger, my dog,
was on in front; he was foraging in the long grass, when suddenly he
started off in pursuit of something that we could not see. There was
a strangeness in his movements that perplexed me; he kept springing
forwards, and as suddenly retreating, and I was curious to find out
what was disturbing him. I stopped the waggon, and when I approached
the dog I found him in front of a great tubular ant-hill, barking
furiously. The other dogs began to bark in concert. I soon saw the
cause of the animal’s excitement; a great yellow cobra-capella, nearly
seven feet long, was winding itself round the ant-hill; its neck was
all inflated, and it was hissing vehemently. A moment was enough for
me; I put a charge of small shot clean into the reptile, and had the
satisfaction of dragging it out from the bushwood, a notable addition
to my naturalist’s collection.
[Illustration: NIGER AND THE COBRA.]
In the course of the evening we came to the broad valley which had
been described to us as the shortest route to Taung, and, leaving the
main pass, we turned into it towards the north, and settled ourselves
for the night.
The day following the storm was dull and chilly. Our road lay first
across a hollow, with some Batlapin huts on one of its bare slopes;
then through an opening in the hills to a dense wood, and thence into
another hollow, split up into about a hundred little allotments about
fifty yards square.
It took us the best part of an hour and a half to get over this ground;
but when we mounted the high ground beyond, we found ourselves in sight
of the Harts River valley, which was right before us. The hill-ridges
round Taung seem to form a sort of network. None of them rise more
than 800 feet above the level of the river, but the scenery which they
form is rather attractive. To reach the ford we had to skirt the first
ridge, and then bend northwards.
After a former ruler, Taung is also called Mahura’s Town. It lies under
the shelter of a rocky height, a short distance from the right bank of
the river, where a rush of yellow water was streaming down the bed,
which in many places was overgrown with reeds.
As we wended our way down the slope, we came within view of
another native village. The mere sight of our waggon served to put
its population into a state of extreme excitement. A whole crowd of
men, in tattered European clothes, except now and then one in a mangy
skin, followed by as many women, all naked except for little leather
aprons, and by a swarm of children as naked as when they were born,
came shouting eagerly towards us. They were nearly all provided with
bottles, or pots, or cans, and cried out for brandy. “Suppy, suppy,
bas, verkup Brandwen!” they repeated impatiently. They had brought all
manner of things to barter for spirits. One man held up a jackal’s
hide, another a goat-skin; another offered us bullock-thongs; yet
another had brought out a bullock-yoke; and some of them had their
homemade wooden spoons and platters to dispose of to us. It was a
disgusting scene. We tried to treat the whole matter with contempt,
and to take no notice of their demand; but when we attempted to drive
on, their importunities waxed louder than ever. They caught hold of
the bridles, and pushed the oxen back, becoming ever more and more
clamorous. One of the men made what he evidently imagined would be
an irresistible appeal, by offering me a couple of greasy shillings.
They next tried to bribe us with some skins of milk, which the women
were made to bring out from the huts, and they were driven to despair
when they found that the offer of a goat that they dragged forward
was not accepted. Their screechings and shoutings were of no avail;
not a drop of fire-water was to be extorted from me. We had almost to
beat them off before they would allow us to proceed. A few persevered
in following us to the ford, and made a final effort to secure one
bottle by a private negotiation, out of sight of their neighbours.
They confidentially offered five shillings for the bottle; but I was
inexorable.
[Illustration: MOBBED FOR SPIRITS.
_Page 236._]
The entire width of the river was here about sixty yards, but it had
a rocky island in the middle, so that practically there were two
streams to cross. The current, after the rain, was still so strong that
every one seemed to think it would be prudent to delay the passage
for a little longer. I did not share the apprehension, but was quite
willing to acquiesce in the universal opinion. Under a large acacia,
a short distance from where we were waiting, stood a waggon and a
couple of huts, which we could see at once were occupied by a white
family; some broken wheels, some old iron, and some blacksmith’s tools
lying about, betokened the occupation of the owner. He was one of two
smiths who resided in the place. He had taken up his quarters here
close by the ford, the other having settled near the entrance of the
glen, by the mission-station. He complained that the diminution of the
population, and the general impoverishment of the place, had seriously
interfered with his business; but he had nevertheless succeeded in
getting together a goodly herd of sheep and cows. The other smith might
have done equally well, but he had spent all his earnings in brandy.
Naturally, there was not much good feeling between the rivals.
In answer to our inquiries about the ford, we were told that all the
traders, giraffe and ostrich-hunters, missionaries, or any one who
wanted to take the shortest cut through Kuruman, crossed by it; but,
somehow or other, nearly every third waggon managed more or less to
come to grief. The chief was disinclined to do anything to improve the
ford; nor, if he had been disposed, would it have been of much good, as
the stream, every time it was swollen, brought down such accumulations
of sand, soil, and stones, that the character of the channel was
perpetually altering.
Acting under the advice of the blacksmith, who pronounced the ford
perfectly safe, we crossed in the afternoon, reaching the opposite
side without the least difficulty, and after a short rest went on to
Taung. Without pausing in the native quarter, we proceeded to the
mission-house, a stone building, with a gabled roof thatched with
grass, standing in a nice little garden. On entering we found ourselves
face to face with a gentleman about thirty years of age, with a long
light beard. He looked at us at first with some surprise, especially at
my friend F., who was carrying arms. He was the resident missionary,
Mr. Brown. I soon introduced myself, and explained the object of my
journey, and he at once gave us a very kindly welcome, apologizing for
the simplicity and limited extent of his accommodation. He mentioned
that he was engaged upon the compilation of a Sechuana dictionary, a
work that has since been published. After ascertaining that we intended
making a short halt at Taung, he invited me to bring the waggon into
his enclosure, saying that I should thus escape being pestered by the
natives for brandy. Even Mankuruane himself was often very troublesome
to strangers, and the protection of the mission-house would be a
shelter from annoyance. Just at present, however, the chief was not at
home, having gone to Kuruman on a visit to another chief, named Mora.
Mrs. Brown and her children were also at the same place; they had gone
to spend a few weeks with the wife of the missionary there. The place
altogether was very picturesque, being, both for its pleasantness and
for its population, the foremost of all the Batlapin towns. It formerly
contained nearly 6000 inhabitants, but by the year 1879 it was not so
large by one-third.
We resumed our journey on the afternoon of the 12th. We took a
north-north-east course, and at no great distance from the Harts River
came to the Barolong kraal, called by the name of its chieftain,
Maruma. The excessive rainfall must have been confined to a very
limited area; for, although we had had it so heavily, the little river
here was quite dry, and there was hardly any water at all to be had
except in some holes that had been made for the purpose.
Next mid-day we left the valley, and after a short drive along some
stony hills, arrived at a rich tract of pasture-land. Whilst on our
halt, I killed a fine bird of prey (_Melierax canorus_), and a
large lizard of the kind which I have before described.
Approaching now the north-eastern frontier of the Batlapin country,
I expected soon to enter upon the small territory belonging to the
Mamusa Korannas. Turning our course due north on the 14th, we found
ourselves on another extensive plain, overgrown with bushes. Several
heavy showers fell, and at last induced us to make a halt; but the
sight of a number of antelopes darting about among the marethwa-bushes
was too tempting to be resisted, and I started out for a chase. This
proved a more troublesome matter than I had anticipated. To avoid the
bushes, I had to twist my horse about continually; and this I found
so discouraging that I thought I might venture to change my tactics,
and make a bold dash straight ahead. My horse had hardly begun to
bound forward when he came to a sudden pause; failing to leap over a
mimosa, he had plunged into the middle of it. I endeavoured to pull
him back, but the sharp double thorns ran into him so much the more.
The poor creature began to kick violently, and snorting aloud, only
got more deeply imbedded in the prickles. My clothes began to suffer
considerably in the struggle, and glad enough I was when the horse
contrived to extricate its hind-quarters from the bush. I threw my gun
upon the ground and managed to alight, and finally to drag the excited
animal clear away; but my face, my arms, my neck, even my legs, were
all smarting violently; and when I made my way back to the waggon, I
was only to be compared to the triumphant hero of a cat-fight. I am not
likely to forget my experience of that mimosatree. Nature, like a cruel
step-mother, seems to have banished some of the offspring of Flora,
unendowed with fragrancy or honey, to the desert wilds of Africa, where
they take their revenge on any unoffending mortals that come within
their reach.
[Illustration: CAUGHT BY THORNS.]
[Illustration: CHEAP DIAMONDS.]
Soon afterwards we entered a shallow valley, nearly circular in form,
and on the heights surrounding it we observed a few native farms. The
valley itself opened on to a steppe, covered with tall, dry grass,
where a herd of sprightly springbocks were enjoying their antics. We
halted for two hours for dinner. Just as we were preparing to move
on, we saw a Kaffir waggon approaching from the north. The owner, a
Batlapin, wearing a long great-coat, was recognized b; Pit as a man
he had previously known at Klipdrift. Once, Pit said, he had been
poor, but now he was very rich, possessing two waggons and large herds
of cattle. He increased his gains by travelling about amongst the
Barolongs between the Harts River and Molapo, selling the commodities
that he purchased in the diamond-fields. Having ascertained from Pit
that I was the “bas” of the waggon, he walked round it twice or thrice,
and then, leering at me with his twinkling eyes, he put his hand to
his hat and said, in most insinuating tone, “Sir!” Then producing
from his pocket a little box, about two inches in diameter, such as
were commonly disposed of to the natives for snuff-boxes, he gave a
cunning grin, and began to rattle it. I at once got an inkling as to
the way in which he had gained some of his wealth. He jerked his finger
towards his servants, and said that they had been working for him in
the diggings, and here was the result of their toil. Opening the box,
he showed me some twenty diamonds or more, the largest being of about
three carats, and told me that I might have the lot for 30s. Feeling
only too certain that they had all been stolen, I positively refused to
be a purchaser.
In the course of the march during the afternoon I found a good many
weevils under the leaves of a liliaceous plant, as well as several
kinds of locusts that were new to me. It poured with rain in the
evening, and we had to put up a canvas awning for a shelter.
[Illustration: SURPRISED BY BABOONS.]
We began our next march by passing over some plains of short grass
that were swarming with myriads of large-winged ants. The rain had
been so abundant during the last few days, that I did not doubt for
a moment that we should find plenty of water everywhere. We did not
take the trouble to procure a supply for ourselves, nor did we give
the oxen a proper draught before starting; our disappointment was
consequently very great when we ascertained that there was none to
be had, and that once again we were to be exposed to the torture of
thirst. A turn in the valley showed us the bed of a spruit not far off,
and I felt certain that after such rain as we had witnessed there would
of necessity be at least some water trickling along it. Accordingly,
I clambered down the sides, which were nearly perpendicular, and
determined to investigate the bottom. A number of other defiles opened
into the chasm, and the spot was most picturesque; but to my chagrin
I found that there were no signs of water. Defeated in the object
for which I had taken the pains to descend the ravine, I was turning
to leave it, when some stones came pattering down the rocks in my
direction. I soon became aware that the stones were being designedly
aimed at me; and, looking up, I saw a herd of baboons perched among the
trees. I had my gun with me; and, not being in the mood to be pelted in
this fashion, I fired into a tree upon which two of the baboons were
sitting. It was only attached to a cleft in the rock by a single root,
and my shot tore it right asunder. One of the baboons sprang wildly
into the air, the other clung in alarm to the falling stem. An old male
now appeared just in front, and began to pick up some stones; a second
shot, however, had the effect of putting him and the entire group to a
speedy flight.
The hill that we next ascended bore all the appearance of having been
occupied, though probably more than a century ago, by Makalahari
or some other native tribes; the summit was covered by a number of
enclosures made of rough-hewn stones, and about two or three feet high,
varying from fifteen to twenty-five square yards in area. Many of the
Bechuana tribes declare that their own grandfathers occupied the site,
but it seems unlikely that the abandonment of the position has been
quite so recent.
From the top of the hill we could see the country round for some
fifteen miles; it sank gradually towards the north. Five miles ahead
we made out a native village, and hastened on towards it, in the eager
hope of getting water; but on reaching it we only received directions
to make for a depression further on to the north-west, now partially
hidden by the slope on which we were standing. We arrived at the place
only to meet with fresh disappointment; and distressed as we were by
our prolonged thirst, we were compelled to pass another night without
any relief.
We lost no time in making a start the following morning, and, turning
into a wide valley that ran northwards, we came in sight of a native
village, consisting of about forty huts, the shape of which evidenced
that they were the property of Koranna and Bechuana Barolongs. The
village ran principally along the right bank of a little river-bed
containing a number of small pools. Our bullocks soon sniffed the
water, and quickening their pace, were making their way almost beyond
control to the bank, when suddenly all further progress was blockaded
by a dozen or more Koranna men, all dressed as usual in ragged
European costume. Making violent gesticulations, and shouting aloud,
they made me understand that no animals could be allowed to drink
there for less than live shillings a head. Of course I repudiated a
demand so exorbitant, and offered what seemed to me a more reasonable
compensation. They refused to listen to my terms, nor could Pit,
with all his powers of persuasion, induce them to swerve from their
determination.
They had soon found out the desperate condition of thirst to which we
were reduced, and had made up their minds to make a good bargain out
of our necessities; but I was not to be baffled; and, knowing them to
be thorough cowards, informed them that, whether they liked it or not,
I was resolved to have the water I required. Taking it for granted
that my threat implied a recourse to fire-arms, they set up a piteous
howl, and kept on bawling out some native word, which I was told was a
cry for help. In answer to the appeal a number of the inhabitants came
hurrying out, Korannas armed with muskets, Barolongs and Makalahari
brandishing assegais. The Korannas who carried guns were for the most
part women. Partly in their own tongue, partly in Dutch, the whole
crowd, now nearly fifty altogether, broke out into the most savage
invectives; the women shrieked out the most dreadful of imprecations,
while the children, from behind the enclosures, yelled to the top of
their voices; our own dogs, of course, were the reverse of mute, and
the native curs yelped and snarled in chorus. Never was there a more
complete pandemonium. I had come with the most peaceable intentions;
yet, here I was, either by my own want of tact, or by their greed of
alcohol, all but involved in a fatal contention with the natives.
Seeing the threatening aspect of affairs, my people levelled their
guns; this led to a counter-demonstration, and the weapons of our
antagonists were pointed against us. My knowledge of the Koranna
character came to my aid, and prevented me from getting into a dilemma;
I was quite aware that however much they might be urged on by a few
care-for-naught leaders, as a rule they were the most abject of
cowards. Upon this conviction I acted, and avoided any precipitate
measures.
Leaving two of our party in charge of the waggon, I rode out quite
alone towards the mob. They did not attack me; I did not suppose
they would; but louder than ever they assailed me with the bitterest
revilings. Steadily I advanced towards them, when all at once the
foremost began to retreat; the rear quickly began to follow. In a
moment the exultant voice of Pit behind me, shouted, “Det kerle lup!
Det kerle lup!!”[6]
I heard the triumphant tone, and dashed off into a gallop. Had I
been a field-marshal ordering my forces to retire, I could not more
effectually have cleared the field. When I pulled up I could only
burst into a fit of laughter; the comical way in which man, woman,
and child had struggled to keep out of reach of my horse’s heels was
irresistible, none of them apparently feeling safe until helter-skelter
they had reached the security of their own hedges; once within these,
they turned to deliver their maledictions more vigorously than before;
perhaps I was not the worse off for being unable to comprehend what was
doubtless a tirade against the overbearing acts of the white man. There
was no further opposition, and our famished animals were at once sent
forward to enjoy a refreshing drink, while we took care to replenish
our own vessels with an ample supply of water.
[Illustration: RECEPTION IN MUSEMANYANA.
_Page 249._]
As we quitted the village we were greeted by another storm of
vituperation, which, as we did not condescend to take any notice of
it, became more furious than ever; but so uproarious did the shouting
become that the riot unfortunately startled our oxen, and caused them
to swerve aside so suddenly that our front axle snapped in two. No more
untimely accident could have befallen us, and we involuntarily raised
a cry of dismay. I congratulated myself most thoroughly on not having
come into overt collision with the people, for, in spite of their being
cowards and the worst of marksmen, they might, by a stray shot from
their old muskets, have done us a very serious mischief; moreover, to
have come to grief amongst the Barolongs or Makalahari would have been
a very different thing from finding ourselves helpless in the midst of
an infuriated crowd of odious Korannas.
As it was, I relied very much upon the effect of my firmness with
regard to the water, and was right in my conjecture that the natives
would not try to take advantage of our misadventure. They no sooner
saw what had happened than they hurried back from the enclosures to
which they had retreated, and began laughing, hooting, and screaming
around us; the children danced merrily at the fun. At a hint from me
my people, who had been sitting on the front of the waggon with their
guns on their knees ready for action, laid them aside, and joined in
the general laugh; this had a wonderful effect in bringing the crowd
into good humour; I took the opportunity of telling the old barefooted
overseer that I should have to water my cattle at his pools oftener
than I expected; however, I was quite willing, I said, to pay him
properly, and he was soon in as amicable a mood as the rest, and
recommended me to send for a certain man in the village of Marokana,
who would be able to replace the damaged axle.
Within the last ten years, and especially since the introduction of
spirituous liquors into the country, wherever the Hottentot element
has mingled with the Bantu, or whenever the Batlapins, Barolongs, or
other kindred tribes have not had capable and responsible men for their
chiefs, they have been corrupted by the Korannas, Griquas, and others
who have adopted all the vices, and none of the virtues of the white
men. The consequence has been that drunkenness, idleness, robbery, and
even murder, have become rife among them. It is sincerely to be hoped
that the measures lately taken by the government in Griqualand West
with regard to the Korannas will have beneficial results.
The arrangement that I made with the overseer was that our cattle
should have as much water as they wanted at the rate of a shilling a
day each; he was even considerate enough to direct me to some clean
pools that had never been used by the villagers. Before I set out
again, I engaged the services of two native lads for eight shillings a
week each. Pit’s wages were ten shillings a week.
[Illustration: MUSEMANYANA.]
Musemanyana is the most northerly possession of the Koranna king of
Mamusa; on the north and east it is bounded by plains abounding in
game. To these plains I have given the name of “Quagga Flats;” they
belong to Montsua, and are the common hunting-grounds of Batlapins,
Barolongs, Korannas, and Dutch farmers, who come either from the
Western Transvaal, or have been permitted by various chiefs to settle
on their territory. On the west lies the small dominion of the Marokana
chief who nominally owns allegiance to Montsua, the king of the
Barolongs, but without any payment of tribute.