FROM MUSEMANYANA TO MOSHANENG.
Departure from Musemanyana--The Quagga Flats--Hyæna-hunt
by moonlight--Makalahari horsemanship--Konana--A lion on
the Sitlagole--Animal life on the table-land--Gnu-hunt at
night--A missing comrade--Piles of bones--Hunting a wild
goose--South African spring-time--Molema’s Town--Mr. Webb and
the Mission-house--The chief Molema--Huss Hill--Neighbourhood of
Moshaneng--Illustrious visitors.
No sooner was the axle mended than we left Musemanyana, travelling
on till it was quite late at night. The wind was blowing almost a
gale when we halted, and in lighting our fire we had some difficulty
in preventing another steppe-burning; the next morning, however, the
21st, was warm and bright. Shortly after starting we came across some
Makalahari and Barolong women collecting young locusts just emerged
from their pupa state. It was not until we had gone on for three
hours and a half that we arrived at a depression, and found some
pools of clear water; from this point our road lay to the north-east,
over wide plains with bushes few and far between. The dry grass had
all the pleasant fragrance of hay, and young blades were already
sprouting amidst the withering stems. In all directions the ground
was burrowed by jumping-hares, porcupines, and earth-pigs. Hyænas
had taken possession of the holes that the earth-pigs had deserted,
and occasionally we observed the lairs of jackals. In localities
exclusively populated by natives, jackals, caama-foxes, and proteles
are freely hunted for the sake of their skins, which are made into
coats; but in the parts where white men predominate, and game is
abundant, hyænas are chiefly made the object of attack, being partially
exterminated by strychnine.
[Illustration: BAROLONG MAIDEN COLLECTING LOCUSTS.]
Fourteen miles further on we came to another valley, broader than the
last, and containing numerous pools; the grass here, although it had
been burnt down in September, had already grown again a foot high.
In the valley was the last of the outlying settlements, belonging to
Hendrick, the chief of Musemanyana, and we counted more than a hundred
of his cattle. The plains extended right away to the horizon on every
side.
We next entered upon the Quagga Flats, and found ourselves upon
Montsua’s territory. The weather continued genial, and the wind had
dropped, but the marshy condition of the soil made our progress still
difficult. Meeting some Barolong people on their way from Marokana
to hunt, I tried to bargain with them for the exchange of some of
my draught-oxen, but our negotiation fell through, as the Barolongs
demanded 8l. a head on every bullock that should be bartered.
On the 23rd F. and I, accompanied by “Boy,” one of our new black
servants, left the waggon and went off on a little hunting-excursion.
It was on this occasion that I first became aware of the fact that
springbock gazelles leave their fawns all day, only returning to
them in the evening to stay with them at night. Any one wandering
about the plains where the grass is not many inches high may come
within twenty yards of the pretty little creatures without perceiving
them, and although they do not try to escape observation, like the
orbeki gazelles, by lying flat upon the ground, they are often very
effectually concealed by the herbage.
In the course of the afternoon we turned into a road leading northwards
that subsequently proved to be the direct route between Mamusa and
Konana; the track had probably not been open to vehicles until within
the last three months, though apparently it had been previously used
as a footpath by the natives. We were now on the edge of a plain that
extended east and west as far as the eye could reach, but was bounded
on the north by some hilltops, and broken in the same direction by
clumps of wood; these, however, were some miles away. A lovely evening
passed into just as lovely a night, and the full moon, encircled by the
very slightest of halos, and stars twinkling with a subdued lustre,
shed a kindly glimmer over the dark grey plain. In spite of fatigue,
I lay awake long enjoying the beauty of the scene, my companions all
sound asleep, and the dogs the sole sharers of my watch.
[Illustration: A HYÆNA HUNT.]
A sudden movement on the part of Niger disturbed me from my reverie;
followed by Onkel, another of our dogs, he sprang forward and began to
growl. The long-drawn howl of a spotted hyæna had broken the stillness
of the night, and though it was, as I supposed, at some distance, it
quite accounted for the agitation of the dogs. I was so well accustomed
to the sound that I did not pay much regard to it, and prepared to lay
down my head to sleep; but so obstreperous did the dogs become, that
I was soon convinced that the intruders could not be far away, and
resolved to make a raid upon the disturbers of our rest. I crept up
to Pit and Boy, and after shaking them till they were awake enough to
understand me, I gave them orders to hold in the dogs. Going to F.,
I tried to arouse him, but did not wait to ascertain whether he took
in what I said to him. Without losing more time than I could help,
I procured some ammunition, and started off in the direction from
which the howling seemed to come. The servant-boys had the greatest
difficulty in preventing the dogs from following me; the whole canine
race of Africa instinctively regards the hyæna as an enemy that should
be attacked whenever opportunity affords.
I advanced about a hundred yards, sometimes stooping, sometimes
crawling on my hands and knees, but without seeing any signs of hyænas;
all at once, however, a low growl reached my ear, and I placed myself
behind an ant-hill ready to take advantage of the first chance of
a shot. In vain I waited. I made the best scrutiny I could of the
surroundings, but I could see nothing but ant-hills, and the growls
were not repeated. I was beginning to suppose that my own movements
had scared the beasts away; still I waited on till the ants began to
make my position uncomfortable, not to say untenable. Just as I was
thinking I must retire, I was startled by a hideous yell, scarcely a
dozen yards away. I strained my eyes to peer everywhere around me,
but the moonlight revealed nothing but ant-hills in every direction.
Whilst I was still in suspense, I became aware of a savage growl close
at my heels; turning myself round, I was about to fire, when Niger’s
well-known bark made me hold my hand. Frantic with excitement, the dog
had been too much for Pit to hold, and Boy, fearful that the hyæna
would be more than a match for him, had let Onkel, a far stronger
animal, loose as well; and now the two dogs together were scouring
the place, full of eagerness to scent out their enemy. They scampered
backwards and forwards, far and near; but the hyænas had obviously
adopted the prudent plan of timely retreat, and at last I was compelled
to abandon all further hope of success, and returned to the waggon to
bear my disappointment as best I could.
Of all the South African beasts of prey, the spotted hyæna is the most
enduring and the most tenacious of life, and I have known instances
where they have withstood the effects of fearful wounds for double the
time that I believe other mammalia could have held out. I shall have to
refer to these animals more than once again.
Next morning we reached one of the patches of wood that we had seen
towards the distant north; it contained some wretched huts, made of
branches driven in the ground and covered with leaves, occupied by
Yochoms, a branch of the Makalahari. These Yochoms were dependents of
a Barolong, named Mokalana, who resided in another of these woods a
few miles away; both settlements bore the names of their respective
owners. The custom that the Bechuanas have of calling their towns and
villages after their builders or owners, frequently causes a great
deal of confusion, as in this way a place sometimes gets known by two
or three names, those of past as well as present chiefs; and when a
chief changes his place of residence, the new settlement will bear the
same name as the old one, although it may be not more than a few miles
distant.
The Yochoms had to look after a herd of cows and sheep for their liege
lord, and it was also their business to hunt for him; for this purpose
they were supplied with horses, and seemed much more at home in the
saddle than any other of the Bechuanas.
By a present of a pocket-knife, I induced one of the natives to ride
off to the “Bas” and inquire whether he was disposed to let me have
some young oxen in exchange for my old ones, if I gave him proper
compensation in money and ammunition.
[Illustration: A YOCHOM OF THE KALAHARI CHASING A BLESSBOCK.]
While we were taking our mid-day meal, another Makalahari came back
from hunting, mounted on a powerful brown mare. Quite imposing in his
appearance was this swarthy son of the South African table-land, as he
rode along in his shining leather tunic, the shafts of his assegais
supported in a leathern socket attached to the stirrup, and the carcass
of a blessbock slung across the front of his primitive saddle.
All the horses are bred upon the plains, and so well accustomed are
they to the clumps of grass and to the holes in the soil, that the
riders give themselves no concern about their bridles, but chase the
fugitive herds of antelopes at full gallop, and generally succeed in
overtaking them (except the springbocks, which are too fleet to be
caught in this way) in about half an hour; the assegai is then brought
into requisition, and is aimed with such precision that it rarely fails
to hit its mark. One head of game thus secured, the huntsman, as a
rule, never attempts to get a second, but having despatched his booty
with his other assegai, he forthwith turns his horse’s head homewards.
The fewer the wounds which the animal receives, the greater the value
of its skin to the Bas.
As my messenger was long in returning, I began to prepare to start;
but just as the bullocks were being harnessed the man was espied in
the distance. The message he brought was to the effect that the Bas
had only one team for his own use, and that he could not consent to
part with it. At the same time, however, he sent word that he had a
sheep which he would exchange for a mug (about 1 lb.) of gunpowder.
Accepting his offer, I received a fine “fat-tail;” and, in addition
to the gunpowder, I gave several trifling articles, such as needles,
tinder-boxes, and little chains, which the Makalahari reciprocated
by presenting me with some proteles’ skins, and a few blessbock and
hartebeest horns.
The unwelcome announcement was made to me the first thing next morning
that one of my bullocks had died in the night, so that the burden of
the waggon had to fall upon three pair instead of four.
Opening into the valley along which we were making our way were several
side valleys, all containing cultivated fields. After a few miles we
came upon one of these running north and south, which, we were informed
by some passing Korannas, was that of the Konana River, that flows
through highlands to the Maretsana. These highlands are occupied by
Korannas and Barolongs and their vassals, and are under the protection
of their chief, Shebor, who in his turn is subject to Montsua.
After rather a tedious drive, we came to Konana, which lay extended
along the slope of a hill studded with trees, and contained 1000
inhabitants. I indulged a hope that I should be able here to procure
some fresh bullocks; and in order to attract the attention of the
people, I encamped on an open piece of sward just to the east of the
town, on a declivity leading downwards to the river, and made a display
in front of the waggon of various commodities that I had brought with
me to enable me to make purchases for my scientific collection. It was
not long before a crowd of visitors arrived, and with much curiosity
inspected my stock, which consisted of a velveteen suit, two bright
woollen shirts, a hat, half a dozen pocket-handkerchiefs, and half a
roll of tobacco. But, although the chief came in person, I found no one
disposed to negotiate with me for what I wanted.
[Illustration: A BAROLONG STORY-TELLER.]
Several of the residents, who entered into conversation with us,
informed us that the surrounding hills, as well as the heights along
the Sitlagole and Maretsana Rivers, were infested with lions, which
were so accustomed to the sight of men and to the sound of fire-arms
that they were incredibly bold. Although the plains were abundantly
supplied with game, the monarchs of the forest exhibited a decided
predilection for domestic animals; and the chief, Shebor, told us that
he had to lament, not only the loss of many of his cattle, but of
several of his people; and he advised us to keep a sharp look-out all
along the opposite hills, which were amongst their favourite resorts.
He related a distressing incident that had occurred on one of the
neighbouring rivers. A party of natives were on their way from Maraba,
in the Makalaka country, to the diamond-fields, a distance of 800
miles. It was by no means unusual for such parties to quit their homes
with simply a hide and an assegai, quite prepared, during their long
and arduous journey, to live on nothing but roots, wild fruit, and
occasionally a small head of game. The spectacle they would present
to any traveller who might meet them was very piteous. Sometimes they
would be almost destitute of food of any sort for days together, and
be reduced well-nigh to skeletons. Their progress would become more
and more painful; and they would endeavour to mitigate the pangs of
hunger by drawing in the waist-bands which with a strip of hide formed
clothing. The ordinary custom was for them to travel in single file,
the strongest first, then the less robust, followed by the weakest;
so that an invalid would often be quite by himself, a long way in the
rear. In the party of which the chief was speaking there were two
brothers, one of whom, on account of his feeble condition of health,
had for more than a week been obliged to take his place last in the
procession. Arriving at the bank of the Sitlagole, the party halted to
search for some roots, not unlike turnips, which were known to grow
there, and which they hoped to cook and enjoy for supper. They found
the roots in such abundance that it was resolved to spend the night on
the spot, and they kindled a fire to prepare their meal. On closing in,
it was soon ascertained that the sick comrade was missing. They looked
at each other with much perplexity; but the brother of the absent man,
without losing a moment, snatched up his own and his brother’s share
of the roots that had been gathered, fastened them to a strap upon his
shoulder, seized his assegai, and started off. The rest drew closer
in, enjoyed their supper, lighted up several additional fires as a
protection from attack, and laid themselves down under the bushes to
sleep.
The missing Bechuana was a Batloka, and the evidence went to show
that the poor fellow had been compelled to rest so often and so long
from his weakness, hunger, and sore feet, that he had fallen far into
the rear, and, missing his way, had strayed into a rocky valley full
of bushes that were notoriously the haunt of lions. Here no doubt he
had been pounced upon and killed, for the brother had not gone far
before he could trace the spot where the proper path had been left,
and proceeding onwards he soon observed a lion’s footprints in the
sand. Instead of turning back, he had apparently caught sight of his
brother’s stick, straw hat, and gourd bottle, lying on the ground, and,
trusting to his assegai, had resolved to venture on alone.
[Illustration: THE BECHUANA FINDS THE REMAINS OF HIS BROTHER.
_Page 205._]
“But what was an assegai,” exclaimed Shebor, “in the face of a lion who
had just tasted human blood?”
It was clear that before he reached his brother’s corpse the lion had
sprung from its concealment, and secured him as a second victim.
Finding next morning that both the men were absent the whole party was
in consternation, too truly fearing the worst. They applied for help at
a Barolong farm close at hand, and, following the tracks, were not long
in discovering the two mangled bodies close to each other. The marks on
the ground were quite distinct, and left no doubt that a lion had just
quitted the spot. Probably it had only been scared away by their own
approach, and they determined to continue their chase. After they had
made their way for about 500 yards along the bank, they caught sight of
a tawny object in a thicket just ahead. They hardly dared to hope that
it was the creature of which they were in pursuit; but simultaneously a
number of them fired, and great was their triumph when they discovered
amongst the bushes the carcass of a huge lion pierced by six bullets.
Such was the substance of Shebor’s narrative, which he told with much
energy and many gesticulations. It had its due effect in inducing us to
take every precaution on our way to our next encampment on the slope,
about three miles from Konana.
The next morning was again very fine and bright, and the golden
sunbeams that penetrated the foliage above our heads awakened the
feathered tribe betimes to commence their usual concert. Small
song-birds were especially numerous, as well as various kinds of
shrikes, and the _Tockus flavirostris_.
For two reasons our progress all day was very slow. Not only were our
bullocks so weary that they required continual intervals of rest, but
the bushwood was so dense that we felt the necessity of being very
cautious. We did not, however, catch sight of a single lion; and, in
due time, found ourselves once more upon comparatively open country.
It turned out a gorgeous day, and I am sure that none of us will forget
the view upon which we gazed across the table-land. To a sportsman,
and still more to a student of animal life, such days must ever remain
engraven on the memory; they atone for the discomforts which have been
endured in the past; they explain the longing which arises to revisit
former haunts.
[Illustration: WILD ANIMALS ON THE PLAINS.
_Page 267._]
On reaching the top of the plateau, we looked across a vast
plain, extending for at least twenty miles to the north and south,
bounded on the east by mimosa groves. Except around the pools where
the grass grew high, the plain was covered with a rich carpet of new
green sward, thickly studded with brown ant-hills, and forming the
habitat of numerous sorts of game. Dark-brown, light-brown, tawny,
yellow, motley, and black, were the robes in which a fanciful nature
had bedecked her children. There were striped gnus and black gnus,
blessbocks and hartebeests, springbocks and zebras; some were grazing,
others gambolling, whilst here and there a herd would stalk solemnly
along in single file, as though wrapped in meditation. Several herds of
blessbocks stood in long rows cropping the pasturage, and quite near to
us was a group of nearly 150 zebras, wending their way in a wide curve
slowly to the south. In smaller bands were hartebeests innumerable;
black gnus, in herds varying from ten head to eighty, had taken up
their position near the bushes; and between them and the zebras were
springbock gazelles, far too many to be counted. Nor were birds wanting
to add to the animation of the scene. There were great bustards
(_Eupodotis Kaffra_ and _Kori_); there were two of the lesser bustards
that I have already mentioned. There were chenalopex, ducks, plovers,
ibises, cranes, and many others; their rich plumage and graceful forms
as they rose in the air, or hovered just above the ground, contributing
largely to the general charm.
I had seen much of the animal life of South Africa during my first
journey, but I had never witnessed anything to compare with this; it
exceeded all that imagination could depict, and appeared to me enough
to transform the most indifferent into a keen lover of nature. For
a full hour we feasted our eyes upon the prospect before us, quite
forgetting the necessities of our weary cattle. So fascinated were we
with the scene that we resolved to make our encampment where we were
for several days.
Connected with another, this plain extends to the upper Harts River on
the east, to the Maritsana on the north, and nearly as far as Mamusa on
the south. It covers an enormous area, the greater part of it belonging
to King Montsua. It has no perceptible slope, and it is only close to
the river-banks that the rain gets carried off at all; consequently,
its surface holds numerous salt-pans varying in size, besides many
shallow depressions, always full of water in the rainy season. The
salt-pans, it would seem, have a great deal to do with the wonderful
way in which the game thrives.
In one of these depressions we chose the site of our encampment, about
three miles from the spot where we had stood gazing at the view. The
zebras and the blessbocks were the first to take flight as our waggon
proceeded, and some of the herds made their way through the thickets in
the glades, and scampered off to the adjoining flat.
We could distinctly hear the lowing of the gnu-bulls as they led their
herds to drink, and we determined that on the following evening we
would take our stand and watch for them by one of the rain-pools. In
the morning we made a preliminary attempt at a _battue_ on the
southern end of the plain, but without any success. Pit and F. took a
wrong direction, and consequently left a gap between us of about 360
yards, through which the game made an escape.
[Illustration: BAROLONGS CHASING ZEBRAS.
_Page 269._]
Returning to the waggon, we found some Barolongs, who had come from
Konana, and were on their way to one of the mimosa groves, where some
of their companions were already waiting for them, for a _battue_
of their own. They offered us their assistance, but as it was my object
to observe the different kinds of game, rather than to kill a number of
them, I declined to avail myself of their help.
As night drew on Boly and I set out to the separate spots upon which
we had previously fixed, intending to make ourselves during our
observations as comfortable as we could in some small holes in the
ground. I contrived to creep into my hiding-place without rousing any
birds from the water, a circumstance that, however trifling it might
seem to be, was really of great moment, as the clatter made by a number
of birds startled suddenly, and rising on the wing, is quite enough to
make the larger game aware of danger and avoid the spot.
The night was rather dark, but in the north a storm was travelling
eastwards, and repeated flashes of lightning gleamed across the sky.
Except for an occasional cackle or twitter from some birds on the
water, the silence was almost unbroken; several times I thought I could
hear the low growl of gnus, but probably it was the suggestion of my
imagination; once too I felt sure that I caught a sound as of a dog
lapping in the stream, but though I strained my eyes I could discern
nothing, and could only conjecture that a stray jackal might have
approached the water to leeward of me.
[Illustration: GNU-HUNTING BY NIGHT.]
Patiently I waited on, until at last there was no doubt that I could
really distinguish the sound for which I had been listening. Raising
my head and laying my ear upon a bare place on the ground, I heard
the heavy thud of a herd of gnus tramping along a game-track. Full of
expectation I crouched down again. When next I looked up, I was aware
of the lightning in the north being much more vivid than before. Soon I
was able to hear the grunting of the approaching herd, and had not long
to wait before I made out one of the gnus on the opposite side of the
pool; it came along the water’s edge some way towards me, then turning
round, it retreated a little distance, returning almost directly,
accompanied by several others. They all stood for a considerable time
without moving, but the leader, followed by another of the herd, at
length began cautiously to descend to the sandy shore. As the creature
stood directly in front of me, it was so foreshortened that I could
see nothing of it but its head. As well as the darkness would permit I
took my aim straight at the skull, and fired; the crack of the rifle
was followed by a distinct crash of the bullet, and I was sure I had
hit my mark; without paying any attention to the rest of the herd, I
rushed out to secure my victim; but my search was all in vain; I groped
about with my gun-barrel, but to no purpose; I was so certain that I
had struck the creature that I was quite bewildered at its escape,
and should have persevered long in looking for it if the increasing
vividness of the lightning had not warned me of the impending storm,
and induced me to return.
On arriving at the waggon, I was disconcerted at finding that Boly,
who had set out with me, had not come back, and supposing that he
had missed his way, I sent F. some distance up the slope with a
lighted firebrand, hoping that it might serve to guide him in the
right direction; but although the beacon was brandished until the
great rain-drops fell and extinguished it, there was nothing to be
ascertained about Boly. The wind had now risen to a hurricane, and
brought upon us a most furious storm. Although our position in the
hollow had the advantage of sheltering us in some degree from the
violence of the tempest, it had the disadvantage of receiving all the
torrents that rushed down from the flats above, and we were rendered
wretchedly uncomfortable by the in-pouring flood. However, it was not
so much the discomfort we endured as the anxiety about our missing
companion that engrossed our minds; we felt so perplexed and baffled
that we could talk and think of nothing else, and yet we were powerless
to aid him. The storm was increasing, flash following on flash, and
thunder-clap rolling after thunder-clap, and the rain beat so heavily
upon the waggon-tilt that it was only by shouting at the top of our
voices that we could make each other hear. The temperature, which all
day had been very high, became suddenly checked, and a cold chill made
us shiver again in our damp clothes.
The storm lasted for hours, and by the time that the wind abated,
and the rain ceased, we were all very fatigued. It was indispensable
that we should have a little repose, but we hardly allowed ourselves a
couple of hours’ rest before we were ready, by daybreak, to make what
search we could for our missing friend. I sent one of the servants
in the likeliest direction, and he had not gone many hundred yards,
when he fell in with Boly making his way towards the waggon. He was
covered with dirt from head to foot, and was as pitiable-looking an
object as could be imagined; but although he was trembling with cold,
and begrimed with mud, he was carrying a gun as bright as when he had
started. He had not much to tell; in order to avoid the fury of the
storm he had crept into a hole by the side of an ant-hill, where he had
made the best of things all night through, but in order to keep his gun
clean and ready for all emergencies, he had wrapped it in his jacket,
which he had taken off for the purpose.
On the morning of the 29th I took a stroll, and brought back a
hyæna-skull; this was placed along with some skulls of gnus,
blessbocks, and springbocks that we had collected already since we had
made our sojourn here.
At mid-day we started again, going to the eastward with the object
of getting into the road leading from Taung to Molema’s Town, whence
I should proceed again to the north. After going about six miles we
rested in a mimosa grove, where we fell in with some Barolongs. We
passed a great number of deserted huts, round which the bones of
animals were heaped in piles; to account for such an accumulation
the slaughter must have been prodigious. Curious in the matter of
pathological deformities, I turned the heaps over, but found the bones
nearly all broken; the horns were perfect with the exception of two
which had been pierced by bullets, the wounds having healed and a fresh
horny substance having formed in the apertures. I likewise found a
pointed piece of horn, pierced with holes and attached to a thong, used
by the natives for dressing leather.
[Illustration: DESERTED HUNTING-PLACE OF THE BAROLONGS.]
When it grew dark we pitched our camp under some acacias on a hill
near a salt lake, which was itself quite dry, but had some fresh
water-springs on the bank supplying what we required for drinking.
Wandering about, I found some more empty huts, and some more
collections of bones. Observing that there were plenty of hares,
guinea-fowl, partridges, and duykerbocks about, I made up my mind
to remain in the place for a whole day, and had every reason to be
satisfied with my decision, for the weather was lovely, and the sport
so successful that by the next evening my scientific collection was
richer by a variety of bird-skins, snakes, insects, and crustaceans,
as well as by a considerable number of plants. The rest of the party
brought me back from their excursion some interesting birds, chiefly
bee-eaters, black and small grey shrikes, and plovers.
[Illustration: EGYPTIAN GOOSE ON MIMOSA-TREE.]
The capture of a wild goose (_Chenalopex_), which I considered
a great prize, gave me a good deal of trouble. The hill where we
were stopping was at the western corner of the saltpan, the northern
and southern banks of which were bounded by other hills of the same
character; between us and the hill to the north was a valley by which
the rain descends from the upper plains; but so partial had been the
storm that had inundated us two days before, that here, at a distance
of hardly a dozen miles, no sign of water was to be traced. Every now
and then I heard the cackle which I recognized as that of the Egyptian
goose; but, although I had the advantage of a high position, I could
not succeed in getting sight of the bird at all. Persevering, however,
for a long time, at length I espied it perched on a bough of a withered
mimosa. My gun was loaded with only small shot, so that it was useless
for me to fire unless I could get very much closer; this required no
little caution, but by taking off my boots, and making my way barefoot
over the stony water-course, I succeeded in placing myself in a good
position behind some bushes. The goose continued sitting quite upright
upon the same branch, which I afterwards found nearly overhung its nest
at the bottom of the trunk. Finding myself within sixty yards, I took
my aim, and the handsome skin of my victim was soon on its way to my
rapidly-increasing collection.
To the saltpan I gave the name of “Chuai Jungmann,” or Jungmann’s
salt lake; its geological formation is similar to the Vaal-stone at
Bloemhof, consisting of blocks of greenstone of about three cubic feet.
After sundown we proceeded a little on our way, and spent the night
on an immense plain, which bore evident tokens of a long drought; the
ground was cracked, the herbage crumbled at a touch, and the fleeting
herds of springbocks raised great clouds of dust. The deficiency of
water made us put our best foot forward, and during the next day we got
over eighteen miles; there was no game to induce us to loiter on the
way, and we were only too glad to find a hollow full of water, where we
could halt for the night.
On the morning of the 1st of December we were surprised by a visit from
a Boer, who had settled in the neighbourhood. From him we ascertained
that we had now reached the western boundary of the Transvaal. He said
that he was anxiously waiting the arrival of President Burgers, who he
hoped would give him some relief from the annoyances to which he was
perpetually exposed on the part of the Barolongs.
Some of the white-thorned mimosas on the plain were in full bloom, and
covered with hundreds of small globular blossoms of a bright yellow
colour and pleasant fragrance. These shrubs sometimes grow eighteen
feet high; their flowers are tender and sensitive, often containing
many varieties of rose-beetles (_Cetonidæ_), and some Longicorns
marked with red bands. Amongst so many sorts of shrubs, I was surprised
to find that there were only two that seemed to be much resorted to by
insects; these had their branches often thickly coated with the larvæ,
more than an inch long, of the great cicada, of which the sonorous
chirping could be heard on all sides. At our approach the insects would
rise with a loud buzz, and settle again upon some adjacent mimosa with
a shock that could be truly said to be audible. Brilliant leaf-beetles
were also to be seen, and great steel-blue wasps were hovering round
the bushes, catching flies; whilst numbers of humble-bees buzzed about
in their busy fashion, collecting food for themselves and their broods,
that were quartered in the forsaken ant-hills.
The South African spring-time had now settled with all its glory on
these districts of the Upper Molapo, and all the inferior animals
seemed roused to new life and vigour beneath its influence; to them
its beneficent breath imparted fresh animation and enjoyment; to the
unreasoning offspring of nature it seemed to be the herald of peace
and pleasure; only amongst men, the lords of creation, did its return
revive thoughts of discord, fire, and deeds of blood.
A short drive on the morning of the 2nd brought us to the village of
the Makuba, on the southern or left shore of the Molapo,[7] belonging
to Molema’s Town. For the first fifteen miles of the river-course the
valley is very narrow and enclosed by steep cliffs, but further on,
where the plateau slopes to the west, it becomes much flatter. Here it
was that we had to cross it, and we made our halt on the right-hand
bank, near some wartebichi mimosas. Towards sunset we saw Molema’s Town
lying in front of us on a moderate slope, with woods in the background;
on its eastern side the town is bounded by two interesting rocky
heights, and between one of these and the stream stands the commodious
Mission-house, built in the native style, belonging to the Wesleyan
Missionary Society.
The little river is not more than six or seven yards wide, but the
rocks and the numerous acacias and willows that adorn the hillside in
the spaces between the farms, combine to make the position of Molema’s
Town one of the most pleasing of all the native settlements of Central
South Africa. The farmsteads are all detached, and all provided
with enclosures, within which the pointed roofs, overgrown with
calabash-gourds, are quite picturesque.
The many waggons about the place were the index of a thriving
population, a circumstance to be attributed very much to the fact that
King Montsua has prohibited the sale of brandy in the country, an order
which Molema, the governor, or sub-chief of the town, has strenuously
enforced. Another source of prosperity has been the introduction of
European cereals by former missionaries.
Molema, it may be mentioned by the way, is a Christian and a preacher.
It pleased me very much to find that he has forbidden the felling of
any trees in the precincts of the town; and we had scarcely made our
encampment when a native, as the representative of the police-court,
came to apprise us of the rule, at the same time offering to assign us
adequate pasturage for our cattle.
I was contemplating calling on Mr. Webb, the missionary; but before
I had positively made up my mind, a fair stout man leading a little
girl by the hand came out of the Mission-house towards me, and,
as I anticipated, introduced himself to me. We engaged in a long
conversation, and he gave me much information about the locality. He
told me that Montsua was now residing at Moshaneng, a town in the
province of his royal ally Khatsisive, the ruler of the Banquaketse. He
was resolved, however, to settle in Poolfontein, where the Transvaal
Government (probably for the purpose of forestalling the independent
Barolong chiefs) had placed its Barolong subjects. This was a great
annoyance to Montsua, and the real motive of his desire to leave
Moshaneng, and to build himself a new residence elsewhere.[8]
The Mission-house was furnished with the barest necessities, as, in
the extremely unsettled state of affairs, Mr. Webb considered his
residence likely to be only temporary; moreover, Molema, being himself
a preacher, was by no means well disposed to white missionaries at all.
Both Mr. Webb and his wife, who appeared to be an energetic helper
in his labours, advised me to make my way as quickly as possible to
Moshaneng.
Mr. Webb now went to inform Molema of my arrival, and brought him back
with him to the Mission-house. Molema was an old man, suffering from
asthma. He expressed himself very delighted to see me, and said that
he had not seen a Nyaka (doctor) since Nyaka Livingstone. He was very
anxious that I should give him a molemo (a dose) that would relieve
him of his troublesome cough, and enable him to breathe more freely;
inviting me to go and see him on the following morning, he promised
that if I would stay for a few days he would make me a present of a fat
sheep.
[Illustration: DISPENSING DRUGS IN THE OPEN.]
In an excursion that I made up the country, I observed that wherever
there was a stratum of mould, it never failed to be sown with kaffir
corn. I noticed a good many specimens of tropical vegetation, the first
I had seen since leaving Grahamstown; but, on the other hand, I saw a
large number of plants distinctively belonging to the temperate zones,
such as _Campanula_, _Saponaria_, _Veronica_, and some umbelliferous
_Euphorbiaceæ_; out on the plains the grass stood four feet high. I
shot a heron and several finches, including two fire-finches; also two
spurred plovers, which probably I should not have noticed but for their
peculiar cry of “tick-tick.” The women who were working in the fields
were much cleaner than the Batlapins; and after I left Molema’s Town I
was satisfied that these northern Barolongs, as they are called, are
altogether of a higher grade not only than the Batlapins, but than
the Mokalana, Marokana, or south-western Barolongs; in agriculture,
however, and especially in cattle-breeding, they are far surpassed by
the south-eastern Barolongs, who reside in and about Thaba Unshu, which
contains over 10,000 inhabitants, the people living to a large extent
upon their horse-breeding, which cannot be successfully carried on
either in the Molapo district or in the Transvaal, on account of the
horse-plague.
I did not omit next day to pay my visit to Molema. The chief received
me in his little courtyard, and after introducing me to his wife and
sons, whose apartments were close at hand, sent for some wooden stools
for myself and Mr. Webb, who accompanied me. When we were seated,
he begged me to give him the latest news from Cape Colony and the
diamond-fields; he made inquiries about the proceedings of the English
Government in the south, complained bitterly of the encroachments of
the Boers in the east, and wound up by asking me whether I was an
Englishman or a Boer. When Mr. Webb tried to explain to him that I
was a Bohemian, he looked completely mystified; and having asked me
my name, he made some old Barolongs who were sitting in the courtyard
repeat both my name and my country over and over again, until the two
words were sufficiently impressed upon his memory. Before I left I made
him a promise that I would never return to his country without paying
him a visit, and he assured me that I should always find a welcome.
Before I left Mr. Webb gave me two letters of introduction, one to Mr.
Martin, a merchant residing in Moshaneng, the other to Montsua, which
Mr. Martin would read and interpret to him.
On the 5th we started off northwards towards the foot of a wooded
hill. Without deviating far from our proper route I had many
opportunities of adding to my entomological collection; amongst other
coleoptera I secured a large and handsome tortoise-beetle that I had
never seen before, having its wing-sheaths dotted with greenish-gold
and brown spots; its habitat apparently was on one of the commonest
South African nightshades. The nest of the sociable weaver-birds
(_Philetærus socius_) did not fail also to attract my attention,
abounding as they did in the camel-acacias along the way.
[Illustration: NEST OF WEAVER-BIRDS.]
The day’s march was brought to a close in a depression near a brook
flowing north-eastwards towards the Taung or Notuany River; and next
morning, after making our way through a regular underwood of acacias,
we came to a Makalahari village, the population of which was composed
almost exclusively of Montsua’s shepherds and hunters. They gave
us a most discouraging description of the road to Moshaneng, and
declared it all but impossible for us to accomplish the journey to
the royal residence with oxen so weak as ours. The road was indeed
in a deplorable condition; the sand was very deep, and sorely tried
the strength of our poor animals; the woods were full of holes a foot
or more in depth, that had been rain-pools in the rainy season, and,
besides this, the dust rose in clouds from the sand-drifts, parching
our mouths and throats, and making our faces smart considerably.
In one of the smaller hollows now overgrown with grass, I found
hundreds of a glistening blue Litta, marked with a rusty red spot,
a species which I never met with but once again when I was on my
subsequent journey in some woods not unlike these, about fifteen miles
to the north of Shesheke. I also shot a buzzard of the kind known as
the honey-buzzard (_Pernis apivorus_) that was hovering over me.
The state of the road next day showed no improvement; and when we came
to two salt-pans, nearly dry, where the sand was some fourteen inches
deep, we almost despaired of getting across, but by the aid of various
expedients, and by the exercise of much perseverance, we managed to
reach the opposite side, where we halted to enjoy the rest that we felt
both man and beast had so hardly earned. In the woods we found two
kinds of edible berries, one of which was the brownish-red fruit of the
bluebush, used for shot, the other being a yellow berry something like
our currant, called wild pomegranate by the Boers, and “geip” by the
Korannas, by whom it is greatly relished.
On our way we saw in the distance a ridge of hills running transverse
to our path, which some Barolongs that we met told us were Malau’s
heights; to the highest summit, which did not appear hitherto to have
had any special distinction, I gave the name of Huss Hill. Reaching the
saddle of the ridge we camped amongst some groups of shrubs overgrown
with bryony, cucurbitæ, and other creepers. In some spreading acacias
we observed shrikes, both long-tailed and black-and-white; large
turtle-doves, too, seemed by no means rare, and for the first time I
heard a note which I fancied must proceed from a _Psittacus_.
Following the sound I was gratified by seeing a pair of the small grey
parrots (_Psittacus Ruppelii_) with green breasts, and yellow
spots on the head and wings. They are found beyond the Zambesi, and
live in pairs in hollow trees.
As we went on we had alternately to descend steepish valleys, and to
climb stony hills. Again we had to experience a lack of water; for
ourselves, indeed, we were fortunate in being able to get some milk
from a few Barolong people we chanced to see, but the deficiency was
sadly felt by our poor panting bullocks.
Arriving at a wide valley running north by east, under the last spur
of Malau’s heights, we were relieved by the springing up of a cool
breeze, which seemed to prognosticate rain. Our anticipations in
this matter were not disappointed, and, before we had toiled on much
farther, a refreshing shower came down, allowing us to fill all our
vessels, and the bullocks to quench their thirst.
[Illustration: COLLECTING RAIN-WATER.]
It had been my intention to push on so as to reach Moshaneng that day;
but, coming to a valley where the pools were full of rain-water, and
which looked very pleasantly sheltered, we were induced to stay there
for the night, although it was about four miles short of the town.
[Illustration: A REFRESHING DRAUGHT.]
[Illustration: ROYAL VISITORS.]
In the woods were some fine trees, known amongst the Boers as beech,
as well as a shrub erroneously called wild syringa. There were also
wild olives and karee trees, mohatla and marethwa bushes; some shrubs
with winged seed-vessels, like the maple, several kinds of mimosas
(_Acacia detinens_, _Acacia giraffa_, _Acacia horrida_),
and, on the hills, some aloes, that differed from those which I had
seen further south. I shot a great grey lory, that from its cry is
called the “go-away” by the English, whilst by the Boers it is known as
the “grote Mausevogel.” It builds right at the top of trees, whence it
peers about at anything that excites its curiosity; whenever it utters
its frightful cry its crest stands perfectly erect. I likewise brought
down a brown fork-tailed kite, and two yellow-beaked hornbills. On the
11th I made some short, but not unsuccessful, excursions, and secured,
amongst other booty, some parrots, six lories, some widow-birds,
hornbills, two sorts of cuckoos, a small red-and-green woodpecker with
a red crest, and some shrikes.
We had now come about seventy miles from Molema’s Town, having, about
half way, entered upon the territory of the Banquaketse, in latitude
25° 10’ south. In the course of the afternoon we were honoured by a
visit from some of the magnates from Moshaneng. A covered two-wheeled
waggon, drawn by four horses, was seen skirting the wood, and making
straight towards us. Our black man, Stephan, went to the horses’ heads,
whilst the occupants, four natives, alighted. The first to step out
was a young man of about seven-and-twenty, who introduced himself as
Mobili, the son of a Bechuana chief. He had known my friend F. in
Kimberley, where his English education and knowledge of the language
had for a time procured him an appointment as interpreter in the Courts
of Justice. He was now, however, living as a South African gentleman,
and was on a round of visits to several Bechuana chiefs. He had come
from the king of the Bakuenas only a few days previously. Having shaken
hands with F., he proceeded to introduce the three others. “These,” he
said, “are two of the most distinguished Bechuana kings. Montsua, king
of the Barolongs, a wealthy and powerful tribe, and Khatsisive, king
of the Banquaketse; and this,” he added, pointing to the third, “is
Khatsisive’s Prime Minister, Chancellor of the Banquaketse kingdom.”
Montsua, a plump, jovial-looking man, of about fifty, inspired me with
confidence immediately. Khatsisive, who was tall and scraggy, looked,
as did also his Chancellor, as if he knew how to suit his furrowed
countenance to circumstances. They were all in European costume,
Khatsisive wearing a long overcoat and chimney-pot hat, while his
Minister sported a “Menschikoff.”
Mobili and Pit acted as interpreters, and during the conversation that
ensued we were closely scrutinized by our visitors. Montsua assured
me that I was very welcome to the neighbourhood of his residence at
Moshaneng, explaining that he was not now living on his own territory,
but on that of Khatsisive, his friend and ally, having quitted the
Molapo some time since on account of the oppression of the Boers. He
was so weary of the annoyances he suffered, that he had thoroughly made
up his mind to leave Moshaneng, and to establish himself either at
Poolfontein or on the Lothlakane, where he should be pleased if at any
time I would pay him a visit.
I was very closely interrogated as to the object of my journey. In
reply I exhibited some bird-skins, which were regarded with some
astonishment. Mobili interpreted my explanation of the process by
which the skins were preserved; but the way in which the king kept
shaking his head implied that it all surpassed his comprehension;
and when I advised him to be careful in handling them, as there was
some poison used in preparing the plumage, he uttered a low cry of
alarm, and instantly dropped the specimen he had in his hand. Mobili
had translated my word “poison” by the words “molemo maschive” (i. e.
bad medicine), which startled the king, as there is nothing of which
the Bechuanas live in greater dread than subtle poison, even applying
the name to medicines that fail to effect a remedy. Montsua and his
companions were certainly a good deal disconcerted by my communication,
for they turned up their coat-sleeves and began vigourously rubbing
their fingers against the sand on the ground. They were very glad
to avail themselves of the soap and water and towel, for which I
immediately sent; but nothing seemed to make them quite comfortable,
notwithstanding my assurance that the poison could have no injurious
effect upon the human skin.
After shaking hands with us all round, and bestowing a friendly nod
upon the servants, the two rulers over many hundreds of square miles
remounted their waggon and prepared to start. Mobili had just taken
the reins when King Montsua laid his left hand upon his shoulder, and
with his right beckoned to me. As soon as I approached he made Mobili
ask me what I had done with the “rumela,” the letter of introduction
that I had brought for him from Mr. Webb. I fetched the letter at once,
as well as the other addressed to Mr. Martin, which I asked might be
delivered for me; at the same time I expressed my surprise that the
existence of the letters should already be known at Moshaneng.
Montsua laughed, and said,--
“I knew all about the letters three days ago. While you were asleep
two Barolongs came over from Molema’s Town; from them I heard of your
arrival, and of the good effect your molemo had had upon Molema.”
On the afternoon of the 14th, I completed my journey to Moshaneng, the
way lying through cultivated country, bounded on the east by an open
plain, on the west by rocks, and on the south by wooded heights, which
were the northern chain of Malau’s ridge, overlooking the town.
Malau’s ridge may be considered as the south-central portion of the
Banquaketse heights, which are connected by the Lekhutsa and Makarupa
hills with the western mountain groups in central South Africa.[9]