RETURN JOURNEY TO DUTOITSPAN.
Departure from Wonderfontein--Potchefstroom again--A
mistake--Expenses of transport--Rennicke’s Farm--A concourse of
birds--Gildenhuis--A lion-hunt--Hallwater Farm and Salt-pan--A
Batlapin delicacy--Rough travelling--Hebron--Return to
Dutoitspan--The Basutos.
After much enjoyment of the natural objects associated with the place,
and with very pleasant recollections of its kindly-disposed owner, I
prepared to quit Wonderfontein, which I had determined should be the
limit of my first excursion, and to make my way back to Dutoitspan. As
far as Bloemhof, I determined to take the same route by which I had
come.
Being anxious that it should be by daylight that we recrossed the marsh
which we had experienced to be so perilous by the bridge over the Mooi,
at Potchefstroom, I resolved to push on all night, with the exception
of a brief interval of rest.
During the period of the short halt, I was sitting almost lost in
reverie, when I was roused by hearing what struck me as some peculiarly
rich notes. One of my people drew my attention to a couple of large
birds, not a hundred yards off. It was too dark to distinguish what
they were; and before we could creep near them they had taken alarm and
had risen high in the air; but I am tolerably certain that I recognized
the deep long-drawn notes, as they re-echoed in the stillness of the
night, as the warning cry of the South African grey crane. Notes of
this full, resonant character, that seem to reverberate as if from
a sounding-board, so as to be audible at an unusual distance, are
peculiar to a few kinds of birds, including the swans, which have a
hollow breast-bone, through which the wind-pipe curves before ascending
to the throat.
On the evening of the fourth day after quitting Wonderfontein, we
re-entered Potchefstroom, and made our encampment at the same spot as
before.
Several of the residents, with whom we had already made acquaintance,
came and paid us a visit in our waggon. They told me that Mauch had
stayed several times in Potchefstroom, and had found a liberal friend
in Herr Fossmann. In the course of conversation they mentioned that
dendrolites and other petrifactions were to be found on the mountains
that we could see towards the east; and, in answer to my inquiries
about the interior of the country, they said that several times a year
waggons laden with ivory, ostrich feathers, and large quantities of
skins came from Shoshong, the town of the Bamangwatos, on their way to
Natal. These waggons came down by the Limpopo, crossing it just above
its junction with the Marico. They were the property of two brothers
named Drake, with whom, on my second journey, I made acquaintance at
Shoshong, being called to attend one of them professionally. Among
other bits of information that my visitors gave me, I learnt that two
men were now staying at Potchefstroom, who had just returned from
elephant-hunting in the Matabele country.
I had finished all the sketching that I wanted to do on my way up the
valley, and consequently had ample leisure on the return journey for
hunting, and for seeking to add to my scientific collection. As we
crossed the plain, I took my good pointer Niger with me, and walked
on one side of the waggon, at a distance of some three hundred yards.
Niger was always of great service to me, and never off his guard in
our foraging expeditions. I had brought him from the diamond-fields,
on my baboon-hunting excursion. Whilst I kept my distance on one side,
one of the rest of us marched along at about the same interval on the
other, in the same way as a couple of scouts. The larger bustards
(_Eupodotis caffra_ and _kori_) were too shy to allow us to
come near them, but we had some good sport amongst the grey and black
lesser bustards, partridges, sand-grouse, plovers with red legs and
speckled wings, and hoplopteri, which seemed to abound chiefly in the
more marshy places.
A little incident that amused us as much as anything that transpired
on the journey had the effect of detaining us a short time on our way
between the Baken and Matschavi spruits. Gert was seated upon the box
of the waggon, and spied out a dark object, about two miles in advance
to the left, which, as we approached nearer to it, was acknowledged on
all hands to be an animal of some kind or other. Gert and the other
native insisted that it was only a cow; but as there was no cowherd
in charge, and no other cattle near by, the rest of us came to the
conclusion that it could only be one of those old gnus, which, on
account of their combative propensities, are from time to time banished
from a herd, and thrust out to an isolated existence. We were all of
one mind that the animal was of no service where it was, and that it
had better find its way to some European museum. Accordingly, I started
off, quite intent upon securing the prize. I was beginning to approach
with the profoundest caution; but I very soon found that any delicacy
on my part was quite superfluous; for before I got within three hundred
yards of it, the brute had caught sight of me, and was tearing towards
me at full speed. It was a great bull that came rushing onwards, with
its huge horns lowered to the ground. I did not lose my presence of
mind, but fired a couple of blank shots, which made the animal first
pause and then retreat. I had to return to the waggon, somewhat
chagrined, it is true, but compelled to join in the general laugh, and
to own that the European eyesight was far outdone in keenness by that
of the Korannas.
Without any mishap, we crossed the ford over the Schoenspruit, and
made our camp on the open sward between the stream and the aqueduct
leading to Klerksdorp. Close beside us were two other waggons belonging
to a Transvaal “transport-driver,” who came to have a talk with us;
and as we were taking a cup of coffee, he joined us at our repast.
He told us that to the best of his belief the goods he was conveying
included casks of French wine and brandy, jars of hollands, boxes of
English biscuits, besides a variety of pickaxes, shovels, and other
implements. Altogether his load weighed nearer six tons than five.
The waggons had been loaded in the diamond-fields, and the driver’s
business was to take them to the gold-diggings. He informed us that,
after paying all his expenses, he hoped to clear 140_l._ by this
journey; so that we inferred that, including the dues paid for unlading
at Port Elizabeth, the total cost of the transport of these goods
thence to Pilgrim’s Rest, in the Lydenburg district, could not be less
than 300_l._ It is true that the distance between the two places,
_viâ_ Hope Town, Kimberley, Christiana, Klerksdorp, Potchefstroom,
Pretoria, and Middleberg, can scarcely be less than 1100 miles; but
even for this the charge seems very exorbitant. Generally speaking, the
transport-drivers no doubt make a good thing of their business; and
it would seem to be only in exceptionally bad seasons, or when winter
snow-storms on the paroo plains prove fatal to their oxen, that they
ever suffer any serious loss.
Next morning we quitted Klerksdorp, proceeding towards the
Estherspruit. It had not rained for some days, and we were sanguine of
finer weather; but the nights were very sensibly colder than when we
first started on our expedition.
Our mid-day halt was made, on the following day, beneath the shade
of some of those many-stemmed dwarf trees, the branches of which, in
complicated twinings, bend downwards to the ground. Immediately below
them the soil was almost bare of verdure, and was penetrated by many
mouse-holes; but beyond there were slight depressions in the earth,
where the grass grew luxuriantly.
Arriving early next day at the flowery valley of the Estherspruit, I
devoted some hours to a search for insects, knowing that many of the
smaller coleoptera would abound on the umbelliferous and liliaceous
plants. We afterwards all went off in a body, armed with our guns,
pincers, and the waggon-whip, to the rocks on the left of the valley.
One of the results of this excursion was the capture of two snakes;
and, to judge from the width of the traces that I noticed, I should
conclude that there were a good many puff-adders in the neighbourhood.
It was precisely the place where they would be likely to thrive, as
being haunted by reed-rats--the smaller of a brown colour, the larger
of a grey hue with black stripes--as well as by swarms of the striped
mice which build in the bushes. Reed-rats are venturesome creatures
that from their shape might almost be called jumping-shrews. The
largest of them are about the size of a common rat. They live in holes
underneath rocks, their food consisting of insects and larvæ. They are
always on the alert, and move very nimbly; but when pursued, they have
a habit of stopping to look round them, and this generally results in
their being caught.
Although it was late in the afternoon when we reached the Matjespruit,
we went on for another three hours before stopping for the night.
The first halt next morning was at Klipspruit, where, about a mile
and a half above us, we observed a waggon standing, with some horses
grazing by its side. Behind the waggon was a tent, and I hoped that
we should find we had come across a party of Dutch hunters, from
whom we might obtain some fresh meat, in case our own sport should
prove unsuccessful. My expectation was not disappointed, and we soon
ascertained that the waggon was the property of the landowner, whose
farm residence was higher up the valley, but who had brought his family
out in this fashion for a holiday, to enjoy a little hunting. Not far
from the waggon a number of boughs were stuck into the ground, attached
to each other by festoons of bullock-thongs, on which were hanging
long strips of meat undergoing the process of being converted into
“beltong.” On the ground was the carcass of a bull gnu, which a young
Koranna was in the act of skinning.
Game seemed to be abundant in every direction. We saw a fight between
two gnus. They charged each other with prodigious vehemence; but when
they caught sight of us they obviously recognized us as common enemies,
and making a truce between themselves, scampered off with the rest of
the herd.
After we had passed the Lionspruit and the Wolfspruit, the following
evening brought us to Rennicke’s farm, the owner of which had not been
over-courteous to us on our outward journey. Now, however, he not only
raised no objection to our hunting in his woods, but sent his young son
to act as our guide. Conducting us to the edge of the forest, the lad
bade us stoop down and follow him quietly. About sixty yards further on
we came to a low bank; it was not much above five feet high, and dotted
over with a number of dwarf shrubs. The youth crept on very cautiously,
and having looked down, motioned to us to follow him noiselessly,
and to peep through the bushes. Pointing with his finger over the
embankment, he whispered in my ear,--
“Kick, ohm!”[5]
I shall never forget the sight. I only wish I could have thrown a net
over the whole, and preserved it in its entirety.
[Illustration: A BIRD COLONY.]
The bank on which we were crouching was the boundary of a depression,
always overgrown with grass and reeds, but now full of rain-water. In
the pool were birds congregated in numbers almost beyond what could be
conceived; birds swimming, birds diving, birds wading. Perhaps the most
conspicuous among them were the sacred ibises, of which there could
not be less than fifty; some of them standing asleep, with their heads
under their snow-white wings; some of them striding about solemnly,
pausing every now and then to make a snap at a smaller victim; and
some of them hurrying to and fro, dipping their bills below the water
in search of fish. On the far side, as if utterly oblivious of the
outer world, a pair of grey herons stood motionless and pensive; from
amongst the weeds rose the unabated cackle of the wild ducks, grey
and speckled; mingling with this were the deep notes of the countless
moor-hens; while an aspect of perpetual activity was given to the scene
by the nimble movements of swarms of little divers. At a spot where the
embankment descended sharply to the pool, several ruffs (_Philomachus
pugnax_) were wandering backwards and forwards, uttering their
peculiar shrill whistle; and large flocks of sandpipers were to be
noticed, either skimming from margin to margin of the water, or resting
passively just where they had alighted.
The explanation of this enormous concourse of the feathered tribe was
very simple. A storm of unwonted violence had washed down from the
plain above into the hollow beneath myriads of worms and insects,
lizards, and even mice, and so bountiful a banquet had attracted the
promiscuous and immense gathering which had excited my wonder.
I suppose that one of us must have incautiously allowed himself to be
seen or heard, for all at once a whole cloud of the birds rose above us
in the air. Taken aback at the sudden flight, I fired almost at random,
and was fortunate enough to bring down one ibis and one moor-hen. As we
returned along the edge of the swamp, another of our party shot a wild
duck.
On getting back to the waggon, I learnt from one of my people who had
not joined us in the excursion to the bank, that the farmer had sent me
an invitation to go and visit him. Although he did his best to be kind
and hospitable, I found the arrangements of his house, which was built
of brick, of the most simple and unpretending order. He complained
bitterly of the losses he sustained every year from the disease that
broke out among his horses; his own saddle-horse had not escaped the
infection, and he was anxious to know whether I could give him any
advice that might be serviceable to him.
We left Rennicke’s farm in time to arrive about dusk at “Gildenhuis
Place,” a farm which I have previously mentioned as lying on the
southern slopes of the Maquassie Hills.
_À propos_ of these Maquassie Hills, I may mention that on my
third journey into the interior, two years subsequently to the present,
I met an elephant-hunter, whose home was on their northern ridges; he
was a brave fellow, and told me of an episode in his career which I may
be allowed to repeat, in association with my own experiences in the
neighbourhood.
His name was Weinhold Schmitt, and he had spent his youth on one of
the farms at the mouth of the Maquassie River. The northern passes of
the hills were being terribly ravaged by four lions, that none of the
Boers would venture to attack. At last, one day, a farmer’s son, having
gone out to fetch home three of his horses, came riding back in great
excitement, with the intelligence that he had found their carcasses all
lying half-eaten in the grass. The foot-marks all around left no doubt
that the lions had been the perpetrators of the deed.
[Illustration:
LION HUNT IN THE MAQUASSIE HILLS. _Page 193._]
The announcement stirred the Boers to action, and they determined
to make up a party to hunt them down. Accordingly the farmer and six
others, of whom Schmitt was one, mounted their horses; the son who
had discovered the remains being elected leader. The lion-track was
soon found; it led through a valley, across one hill, then another,
and finally on to a level plain, where, not only was the grass very
short, but the soil was so hard that the vestiges of the beasts could
be no longer distinguished. After some hesitation, it was agreed
that there was no alternative but to abandon the chase; and it is
very probable that most of the party had found their ardour somewhat
abated by their exertions, and were quite content to acquiesce in the
proposal to return home. They broke up close to Schmitt’s house, one
of the party remaining behind for a minute to talk. All at once, to
their vast surprise, they spied out, close to the farm, a lion and
lioness, evidently lurking in ambush. Without losing an instant they
rode towards them, their horses behaving bravely in the presence of
their natural foes. In order to get a better aim at the beasts when
they rose, Schmitt dismounted and led his horse a few steps by the
bridle, then raising his gun to be ready to fire, he called to his
partner to do the same. On turning his head, however, he found that his
friend, instead of following him, had retreated for a good fifty yards,
so that here he was alone confronting a couple of lions, with very
likely several more in their rear. What could he do but retreat also?
As he retired he kept his eye fixed upon the lions, who kept steadily
following him, till just as he joined his companion, they suddenly
turned tail and made off towards one of the rock-funnels where the
bushes were very thick.
The rest of the party had hardly got out of earshot, and were soon
summoned back. Off they started, and determined to surround the hollow,
taking especial care to watch the side nearest the hills for which
the lions were almost sure to make. After a continuous holloaing and
throwing of stones, the lioness was ultimately roused from her retreat.
She did not rush straight towards the hills, as had been expected, but
took a devious course, which, however, happened to bring her within
range of no less than three of the pursuers. Simultaneously three shots
rang in the air. Despite her efforts to escape, the lioness very soon
sunk to the earth. Every shot had taken effect.
To my inquiry what became of the other lions, Schmitt replied that they
withdrew to the district of the Barolongs, and were not heard of again
for a long time; but he concluded by saying that even now, in very dry
seasons, they will occasionally return from the far west.
It was at no great distance from the Maquassie River that we camped
out next day, under the shade of some lovely acacias. The current,
which we had found considerably swollen when we crossed it a few weeks
before, was now reduced to a mere thread. On the same evening we
arrived at the bank of the Bamboespruit, where we spent the night, as
we did not care to cross the ford in the dark.
Our progress on the following day led us over the grass plains that I
have already described, and past the two farms known as Rietfontein and
Coetze’s, both situated on the edge of salt-pans. Arriving next day
at Bloemhof, we stayed only a short time, starting off again for the
Hallwater saltpan, thence to take a short cut to Christiana.
[Illustration: HALLWATER FARM.]
In 1872 the saltpan of Hallwater became notorious throughout South
Africa, in consequence of the supposed discovery of the ruins of
Monomotapa, a town situated in a district of the same name that existed
two centuries ago. Old chronicles relate that it was a domain that
included pretty well the whole of South and South-central Africa; and
that the population, through the medium of the natives on the coast,
kept up an active trade with the Dutch and Portuguese. It was said
that Portuguese missionaries from the east had worked amongst the
inhabitants, and traditions from the same source represent that the
towns were for the most part built near the gold-diggings, and that in
the immediate neighbourhood of Monomotapa alone there had been no less
than 3000 mines. Discoveries had now been made near the saltpan of some
stone fragments of columns and mouldings, evidently bearing the marks
of human labour; and as the distance between this spot and Cape Town
corresponded accurately with what the records stated was the distance
of Monomotapa from Cape Town, the inference was generally accepted that
the true site of the ancient town had been revealed.
As the place was only a few miles to the north of my route, I was
unwilling to pass it without a visit. It was near the Vaal, and
nominally in the Transvaal Republic; but although I found an old
Dutchwoman living there with her daughters, I learnt that it was
virtually under the authority of the Korannas at Mamusa, a power
which they retained until the beginning of 1879. It was just at the
southern corner of a triangular tract of country that had its base
towards Mamusa and the Harts River, and was claimed by the Batlapin
chiefs, Gassibone and Mankuruane, at that time both independent, by
old David Mashon, the Koranna king of Mamusa, and by the Dutch. Amidst
the perpetual disturbances that arose between these various claimants,
the Dutch farmers who had settled on the land were invariably made the
scape-goats.
[Illustration: KORANNA.]
Producing the best cooking-salt in the Bloemhof district, the saltpan
yielded an income over and above that derived from the pasturage; so
that the old woman who resided in the red-clay cottage with its roof
thatched with grass, besides pasturing her cattle, employed several
servants in collecting salt. There were a few huts close at hand, and
two holes about twelve feet deep opened the way for a spring, which was
conducted by a trench to an artificial pond that supplied the people
with their water. The pond, when I saw it, was filthily dirty; there
were some red-legged and spurred plovers on its margin, but it was a
spot where only tortoises and frogs could lead a contented existence.
The foregoing sketch, which gives a fair view of the cottage and the
huts, was taken two years afterwards, when I was on my third journey.
Soon after my visit, the white people took their departure, leaving the
collection of the salt to the Korannas. To any traveller on his way to
the interior, I should give the advice to lay in a good stock of salt
at Hallwater; it is an indispensable article for preserving meat, and
for preparing skins; there is none so good to be obtained elsewhere;
and its price is something over a penny a pound. The Korannas who
reside here support themselves chiefly by breeding bullocks and goats,
but they find it worth their while to keep a few tumble-down waggons
in which they may send salt to Potchefstroom, Bloemhof, and the
diamond-fields, where they ordinarily sell it at the rate of 1_l._
for a “mute” of 200 lbs.
If a low dam were constructed close to the saltpan, just above the
place where the dry channels open, a reservoir could very easily be
provided, which would amply serve to irrigate their fields; it would,
however, demand something more than Koranna energy to carry out any
such scheme, and it is very unlikely to be put into execution until the
natives are debarred from the chance of indulging in the fire-water
that paralyzes their faculties.
I had an opportunity during our short stay here of tasting the
favourite national dish. Some Batlapins were passing through the place,
and were roasting some locusts over red-hot ashes. As soon as they were
sufficiently cooked, a good many of the men took them and devoured them
entire; others pulled off the feet and the wings; the more fastidious
stayed to take out the insides, and it was in this condition that
they were offered to us. After partaking of the luxury, I think I may
recommend a few locusts to any _gourmand_ who, surfeited with
other delicacies, requires a dish of peculiar piquancy; in flavour I
should consider them not unlike a dried and strongly-salted Italian
anchovy. It is only the true South African locust that is available
for the purpose of food. I found that I could make a good use of them
as fishing-bait, and that they answered much better than earth-worms.
Thousands out of the swarms either fall into the rivers where they are
greedily devoured by the fish, or are captured by birds of all sorts
and sizes, from the tiny fledgling that can scarce hold them in its
claws, to the great cranes and eagles that can consume them wholesale.
Anxious to investigate the district as thoroughly as I could, I
proposed to reach Christiana by a short cut, and then, turning towards
the west, to regain the road near Hebron, thinking thus to traverse
the chief part of Gassibone’s territory from east-north-east to
west-south-west. There was, however, no proper road in the direction
in which I wanted to go, and the bushes not only obstructed our view,
but were interspersed with large clumps of prickly acacias. I had no
alternative but to acknowledge that my little scheme was frustrated,
and to make my way to the Vaal as rapidly as I could.
On our way we saw a good many pairs of the fawn-coloured lesser
bustards, and some duykerbocks and steinbocks; the duykerbocks were
grazing quietly, the steinbocks only visible when startled from the
bushes. There were traces of hartebeests, and of the larger gnus,
probably the striped gnu (_Catoblepas taurina, Gorgon_), which
led us to hope that the animals themselves might not be far off; but
we were hardly in the mood either to be very keen upon the game, or to
appreciate the beauty of the forest scenery as we otherwise should,
because we were undergoing the inconvenience of a total want of water.
We came upon a Batlapin settlement, and, according to the advice of
some of the residents who entered into conversation with us, we were
to follow a certain footpath, which would lead us to a plain, whence
we could make our way without difficulty. During the twenty minutes we
rested, we noticed the women making a new hedge of thorns to protect
their goats, and the men sprinkling some damp earth on a couple of
roughly-tanned hartebeest skins, to render them supple enough to make
up into a dress.
[Illustration: BATLAPINS RETURNING FROM WORK.]
The route we took on leaving seemed to be the most abundant in small
game of all parts of Gassibone’s territory. Most prominent were the
pretty little steinbocks; but we came in sight of three springbocks,
which took flight without allowing us to come anywhere within gunshot
of them, and a couple of secretary-birds, that were stalking up and
down, devouring snakes and lizards, as if it were a solemn duty.
Partridges, generally in pairs, were the most plentiful among the birds.
Although I felt the necessity of now travelling on as rapidly as
possible, I could not resist the temptation, while I was still in
the neighbourhood of the Vaal, to take one day’s fishing. We had
scarcely chosen our station, and lighted our fire, when the owner of
a farmhouse, about half a mile off, came bustling down, and told us
that he could not allow us to spend the night there; by quitting the
road we had rendered ourselves liable to a fine of 5_l._ to the
Republic. I made no remonstrance, setting off at once on our way; but
brief as had been our halt it had enabled one of my companions to catch
a sheat-fish, weighing nearly three pounds, which at our next meal made
an agreeable variety to our ordinary _menu_.
We reached Christiana about midnight, and were all disposed to enjoy
a cup of tea after our long day’s wanderings; but, to our great
disappointment, we found that somehow or other the cooking apparatus
had all been lost. To myself the loss was especially vexatious, as
my money was so nearly exhausted that I could not afford to replace
it. One of my friends, however, was good enough to relieve me of my
difficulty.
Having spent the forenoon at Christiana, we spent the rest of the
day in making our way to the little native kraal that we had passed
as we came from Gassibone, after leaving Klipdrift. Hence to the
diamond-fields our route would be over an entirely new district, the
most interesting part of which would be in the middle, amongst the
hill-ridges by Hebron.
Right to the foot of the hills the country was flat. We passed
several salt-pans which, though small, had retained their water to a
later period than usual, and were even now frequented by wild geese
(_Chenalope_) and cranes. The river took a wide circuit towards
the left, and it was a stiff two days’ journey by which we traversed
the secant of the curve. The magnificent grass plain that we crossed
belonged already to the Transvaal; that on the other side, which was
covered tolerably well with bushwood rising above the tall grass, was
at that time claimed by Gassibone; but now both alike are included in
the Transvaal. We saw, I think, more bustards than at any place I ever
visited in all my travels; before us, behind us, in every direction,
far and near, they seemed to swarm.
Taking Gert with me, I went into a wood adjoining our road in search
of insects, and found some goat-chafers, as well as two kinds of
bark-beetles (_Bostrichidæ_). Here and there we came across
some skulls of gnus, sufficient in number to convince me that until
quite recently they had frequented the district, though now they
have retreated into the interior, and remain in the more northern
plains between the Harts and Molapo Rivers, and in the plains of
the Klipspruit, which, being more open, are far less favourable for
antelope-stalking.
From Bloemhof we had been travelling nearly parallel to the Free State
shore, which, as far as Hebron, is higher than the opposite bank, and
studded over with numerous farms. Rather more than eighteen miles
from Christiana we came again upon the river, near a canteen where
the goings-on seemed more than sufficiently wild and lawless. Here
the road divided, one branch leading down the river to Hebron, the
other crossing the stream by a passage known as the Blignaut’s Pont,
being the shortest and consequently most frequented route between the
diamond-fields and the Transvaal. Wanting to explore the Hebron hills,
as well as the deserted river-diggings adjacent to them, I chose the
longer road, aware beforehand that it was also the rougher. Between
Blignaut’s Pont and Delportshope, near the confluence of the two
rivers, there are, both in the main valley and in the valleys running
into it, several insignificant villages and detached farmsteads,
occupied by Korannas, who are English subjects; the men were to be
seen everywhere, either lounging about in tattered European clothes,
or sauntering with their dogs among the bushes, while their half-naked
children were looking after the meagre herds.
Passing the canteen, we found the country beyond it rather more
interesting, as we ever did when we approached the Vaal, where
a practised eye will rarely fail to find plenty of sport, and a
naturalist is sure to feel himself in an ample field for his studies.
At the foot of the hills we came to a building, half hotel, half
store, built partly of brick, and partly of wood and canvas; it stood
immediately on the Vaal, which here parts itself into several channels,
and flows round a number of islands. It is really a picturesque spot,
and is called Fourteen Streams. The Hebron heights commence here, and
extend down the Vaal as far as Delportshope, having branches that
stretch out towards the north, north-west, and north-north-east, in
the direction of the Harts River, one ramification terminating in the
Spitzkopf already mentioned, others reaching towards Mamusa and the
hills that surround Taung, Mankuruane’s residence. All the range is
thickly wooded, and it is intersected by the boundary-line between
Griqualand West and the Transvaal; it commences about eight miles above
Hebron, a former mission-station in the midst of the diamond-diggings.
The formation of the hills consists of what is known as Vaal-stone,
being greenstone containing almond-like lumps of chalcedony, covered
with quartz-rubble and ferruginous and argillaceous sand. The bottom
of the channel is so rocky that the river forms numerous rapids, so
that the view upwards from Hebron is very charming; a wide panorama lay
open before us, and we could see the hills on the horizon far away in
Griqualand West and the Orange Free State, as well as the Plat Berg, a
hill 800 feet high, with all its streamlets, pastures, and farm-lands.
But if the scenery was exquisite, the roads were execrable. The
only pavement that nature had provided was huge blocks of stone,
between which the rain had washed away the soil and left deep gullies
in the path. The waggon was in imminent danger of being overturned
every few minutes, and it may be imagined that a progress under such
circumstances was little to the advantage either of the baggage or my
collection. As for ourselves the jolting was far too violent to allow
any one of us to ride inside the waggon. The last hill into Hebron
seemed to bring the peril to its climax; so steep was the descent and
so sharp the curves that it made, that it was only by our combined
efforts that we saved the waggon from being jerked completely over, or
the oxen from rolling down the incline.
It was early on Easter Day that we were arriving at Hebron; the
weather was cold and ungenial; the sky was overcast by leaden clouds
drifted along by a keen south-west wind; it was just the morning to
throw a chill over the most cheerful heart. Nor did the aspect of the
remains of the once important diggings and station tend to enliven the
spirits; ruins they could not be called, for the materials employed
were of too transitory a character to allow the dwellings that were
constructed to become worthy of such a description. The prospect would
have been dreary at the best, but seen through the mists of a dank
autumn morning, it was depressing in the extreme. Of the once populous
Hebron, all that now remained was a shop or two, an hotel, a smithy,
a slaughterhouse, and a prison. Crumbling, weather-beaten walls of
clay were standing or falling in every direction, the chaos, however,
being of such extent as to demonstrate how large the settlement at the
diggings formerly had been. Hundreds of shallow hollows in the ground
contributed their testimony to the number of workers who once had
busied themselves in searching for the precious crystals. Thousands of
tons of rubble were left that had once been grubbed out by mere manual
labour, and still attested what must have been the multitude of hands
that had sifted and resifted it in eager expectation of a prize; and
yet out of the host of diggers perhaps scarcely two succeeded in making
a fortune, and hardly one in a dozen did more than cover his expenses.
Not only did Hebron fall to decay as rapidly as it arose; its decline
was even more rapid than the fall of Klipdrift, and many other
diamond-mines. Its true geological character had been misunderstood.
In the alluvial deposit where the diamonds were found, there was to
be discerned a variety of particles washed down from the surrounding
hills, or from districts higher up the river; besides fragments of
greenstone, both large and small, there were bits of quartz of various
kinds (milk-quartz, rose-quartz, quartzite, and quartzite porphyry);
and besides these again there were peculiar oblong cakes of clay-slate
of a yellow or pale green colour, covered with a black incrustation,
probably caused by the decomposition of the outer surface; these
clay-slate blocks, when broken, exhibited some beautifully-marked
colours ranged in concentric bands, and were erroneously supposed to be
the mother-earth of the diamond.
After making some necessary purchases at one of the shops, I found
that I had spent all my money except about sixteen shillings; this was
the whole sum with which I was to get back to Dutoitspan, whither it
was consequently indispensable for me to make my way without losing an
hour. Because it was a holiday, the ferry-man refused to take me across
the Vaal himself, and all his men were tipsy; accordingly, I resolved
to try my luck at crossing the river by a ford.
I sent out one of my companions to explore, and he soon returned with
the intelligence that he had discovered a practicable fording-place,
about two miles lower down the stream. Forthwith we started off.
The proposed passage, as it was lighted up by the rays of the setting
sun, looked favourable enough; but the appearance was deceptive. Though
the water was shallow, the current was strong; the river-bed, too,
was covered with rocks, which even in the open road would sorely have
tried the strength of our oxen. Before we had got one third of the way
across we found ourselves carried considerably below the ford, and our
position rapidly becoming critical.
[Illustration: EASTER SUNDAY IN THE VAAL RIVER.
_Page 208._]
Our black drivers exerted themselves to the uttermost. They shouted,
they flogged, they pulled; but quite in vain; the oxen were utterly
unable to stir, and distressed by the strength of the current, they
began to be restive and to pull at their yokes and bridles. This caused
the foremost pair to sink deeper and deeper, and it seemed only too
certain that they must be drowned. Prompt action was necessary. I had
hurt my hand, and was incapacitated from rendering much help; but I
sprang from the waggon, followed by one of the rest; and although we
could do nothing to rescue the vehicle from its situation, we succeeded
in unharnessing the oxen, who struggled to the opposite side with the
greatest difficulty. By the most arduous exertions, we went backwards
and forwards, carrying the most valuable part of my collection ashore;
but the waggon itself we were obliged to leave, with a large portion of
its contents, in the bed of the river, until further assistance could
be procured. Our labour entailed such fatigue that before darkness came
on we were all ready to drop.
The uncertainty about our waggon and property made us pass an anxious
night, and it was a great relief in the early morning to hear a distant
cracking of whips, announcing that aid was at hand. Four Koranna
waggons, drawn by six or eight pairs of oxen, soon appeared, and made
their way quickly to our side of the river. A bargain was concluded,
by which our waggon was to be brought to land for the sum of ten
shillings, and the manœuvre was accomplished without difficulty or
further accident.
On the third day after this exciting adventure I re-entered
Dutoitspan. I had been away for two months; but, in spite of having
exercised the strictest economy, my journey had cost me 400_l_.;
in fact, rather more. As matter of course, my absence had involved the
loss of half my patients; many families had chosen another medical
man, and many more, particularly the Dutch farmers, had left the
diamond-fields and gone to the Free State. My attendance, however, was
very soon called in to some severe cases of sickness, and I began at
once to recover my position; and it was not long before I repaid the
loan advanced to me for the cooking apparatus by my friend, who very
shortly afterwards left Dutoitspan to settle in the colony.
The great object of my journey I conceived to be happily accomplished.
I had wanted to gain experience as to the best mode of travelling, and
to get some insight into the character of the country, and into the
domestic habits both of the natives and of the settlers. I was anxious
to acclimatize myself for future journeyings, and the ungenial damp
and stormy season had put my constitution to a very fair test. The
heavy rains had involved the loss of a good many objects of interest,
but I had nevertheless succeeded in bringing back thirty skeletons,
about 1500 dried plants, one chest of skins of mammalia, two chests
of birds’ skins, more than 200 reptiles, several fish, 3000 insects,
some fossils, and 300 specimens of minerals, not to mention a number of
geological duplicates, which I procured chiefly from the river-diggings
to present to several museums and schools in Europe.
It is almost needless to add that on this trial trip I gained many
useful hints. In the first place, I learnt that a saddle-horse was
indispensable for any future and more prolonged excursion. Continual
occasions were ever arising when its services would be most acceptable,
either in driving back the draught-oxen that had strayed away, or in
exploring points of interest at a distance without bringing the waggon
to a standstill, or in getting readily within reach of game. And
another thing my experience taught me--I must have much more efficient
weapons for my use.
Before setting out, I had made arrangements to retain my little
tent-house in Dutoitspan, opposite the court of justice, and thither I
now returned. The waggon was pushed up against the back of the house,
and the oxen were sold. They brought in enough to discharge my two
months’ rent, which amounted to 10_l_., to pay 3_l_. for
my servants’ wages, and to leave me a little money in hand for my
immediate personal necessities.
For the next six months I settled down hard to my practice; and it
was a busy time for me. There are very few places in the world where
a doctor does not, more or less, become the intimate friend of his
patients, and thus finds continual opportunities for an interesting
study of character; but in such a sphere of work as the diamond-fields,
in their early days, these opportunities were unusually many. Where
invalids were often confined to the most limited space--families of
tolerable means frequently all living in a single tent--a medical man,
whether he would or no, was brought face to face with the details of
domestic life, not only in its brighter, but in its more trying aspect;
and in such cases he would ever and again have to become an adviser,
an advocate, and sometimes an arbitrator. At times it seemed almost
easier to face a wild beast than to speak the proper word of counsel or
caution to some self-willed grey-headed man. Prague, with its hundred
towers, and the richest practice it could offer, would have failed to
give me in years a fraction of the experience that I gained in this
brief interval.
Of the thousands of black men who at that time acted as servants
in the diamond-fields, the majority belonged to the Basuto, Zulu, and
Transvaal Bechuana tribes. They earned from 7_s._ 6_d._ to
10_s._ a week, and rarely stayed more than six months at the
diggings; for as soon as they had saved enough to buy a gun--which
would seldom cost more than 4_l._--and about 5 lbs. of powder at
3_s._ per lb., a few bullets and caps, a woollen garment or two,
and perhaps a hat, they considered themselves quite in a position to
return to their own homes and buy themselves a wife. A servant had to
be bound to his master by a certificate drawn up by a proper official,
and this had to be renewed at every change of situation, a penalty
being imposed when the document was not forthcoming. Whenever a servant
wished to complete his engagement, and to return home, the employer, if
the man’s conduct had been satisfactory, would give him a certificate
to the local authorities, that he might be permitted to buy a gun. The
certificate was practically equivalent, therefore, to a gun licence;
and thus it had been brought about that many hundreds of natives, both
in the colony and in their own independent states, were in possession
of fire-arms, with liberty to use them.
[Illustration: MEETING BETWEEN BASUTOS RETURNING FROM THE DIAMOND
FIELDS AND OTHERS GOING THITHER.
_Page 213._]
As the Basutos, whom I have just mentioned, formed in 1872 and 1873 the
larger contingent of the coloured labourers, I should like to say a
few words about them, thus including them in my general survey of the
family of the Bantus.
I divide the natives of South Africa into three races--the Bushmen, the
Hottentots, and the Bantus. To the first belong the Bushmen proper; to
the second the Hottentots proper, the Griquas, and the Korannas; whilst
the third includes the colonial Kaffirs, Zulus, Basutos, Bechuanas,
Makalakas, and other tribes, about forty in all; besides which there
are transition types between the races, as, for instance, between the
Bushmen and the Bantus. It is a subject, however, upon which I have no
scope to enlarge here.
Of these tribes, we have already made some acquaintance with the
Korannas and two tribes of the Batlapins. The Basutos reside chiefly
on the Cornetspruit and the Caledon River, extending thence to the
Drakensbergen; they consequently occupy the country bounded by the Free
State, Cape Colony, Nomansland, and Natal. Their language is called
Sesuto. Since their war with the Orange Free State they have lived
under English jurisdiction, whilst their neighbours on the west, the
southern Barolongs, another branch of the Bantus, have become subjects
of the Orange Republic.
In agriculture, the Basutos have advanced more than any other tribe.
Next to them in this respect come the Baharutse, in the Marico district
in the Transvaal, of whom I shall have to speak subsequently, in the
narrative of my second journey. The Basuto farms are very small, but
they produce hundreds of thousands of bushels of corn, and abound in
horses and cattle. There is no doubt that both the Basutos and the
Baharutse are yearly increasing in affluence.
Not long ago, when the most southerly of the Basuto chiefs collected
all the unruly spirits he could find--runaway servants, thieves,
fugitive Gaikas and Galekas, the residuum of the last Kaffir war--and
attempted to plunder, and to revolt from British rule, all the rest of
the Basutos remained faithful, and voluntarily sent 2000 armed horsemen
into the field on the side of the English.
With a few unimportant exceptions, the structure of the Basuto huts,
and the general character of their work, correspond with those of the
Bechuanas, and in their handicraft they are about up to the average of
the Bantu tribes. In one respect they differ from the rest of their
kin: they manufacture carved wooden fetishes, painting them red and
black.
Thaba Bosigo is their most important kraal; Thaba Unshee being that of
the Barolongs in the Free State. They have penetrated as far north as
the confluence of the Chobe and the Zambesi.
[Illustration]