districts, is very fine. The animals are of a milky whiteness,
handsomely formed, with fine eyes, and horns generally not more than a
foot in length, but gracefully turned, partly forward, and partly
upward. The natives invariably either paint or gild the horns; and
sometimes mark the sides, necks, hams, and shoulders, of their favorites
with _mindy_; that is, with the plant generally known among botanists,
under the name of _hinna_. Of this I shall have occasion to speak more
fully when treating of the ornaments in use among the ladies of India:
at present briefly remarking, that, whether owing to the coarse manner
in which the _mindy_ is applied, or to my want of taste, the practice
never pleased me; although the color itself, namely, a tawny red, forms
by no means a bad contrast to the brilliant whiteness of the animal.
A conveyance on two wheels, but in most other respects perfectly similar
to the _r’hut_, is extremely common in India; being used by men, as well
as by women. The body of this kind is usually square; and the roof by no
means so elevated. With few exceptions, these have red covers, in the
sides of which, as also in those of the _r’huts_, are small slits,
serving for peep-holes. In this two-wheeled kind, called generally
_ghorries_, (_i.e._ carriages,) such are more necessary than in the
others; the former being almost invariably fitted up with _cheeks_, or
screens; one of which is ever appended to the fore-part, between the
interior and the driver. The common _g’horry_, now under description, is
rarely, if ever, kept by any European; but may be seen plying for hire
in various parts of Calcutta. Some of these have shafts in which a
_tattoo_ (poney) is fixed, with very slight harness; barely sufficient
to keep the crook-saddle in its place. This is a recent improvement; as
is also the application of _tattoos_ to _r’huts_: I understand they are
found to be more manageable, and far cheaper than bullocks; besides,
their pace is much quicker; and, in case of failure, they are most
easily converted into cash: an object of great moment to the
parsimonious Hindu!
Neither the dress, nor the emoluments, of the persons driving such
carriages, can be estimated with precision, but, in regard to the
latter, we may safely conjecture that something handsome is made;
knowing them to be employed more in the conveyance of prostitutes than
in any other kind of fare. The usual hire of a four-wheel _r’hut_, drawn
by _tattoos_, is, I believe, about three rupees per diem; while those
with two wheels, and only one _tattoo_, at the utmost earn only two
rupees: I never could ascertain any fixed rate; the _g’horry-waun_
always endeavoring to make his bargain for the trip to the best
advantage. Judging from the rapid strides made in various parts of the
country, especially at the several presidencies, to bring all matters to
that kind of system, without which nothing could be done in Europe, we
may expect, in a few years, to see regular fares and rates established,
as in use among us, for the prevention of misconduct, and over-charges,
on the parts of Hackney-coachmen and watermen.
The _g’horry-waun_ may further be employed in a more subordinate
capacity; namely, in driving a common cart, usually called a _chuckrah_,
and known by the designation of a ‘_hackery_’ among Europeans. This kind
of vehicle may carry, on an average, about eighteen or twenty maunds,
equal to about thirteen or fourteen hundred weight: it is drawn by two
oxen; though, in the northern parts of the country, we often see four
attached to those which convey cotton, or other gruff merchandize, I
confine myself, however, to such as may be retained by gentlemen, either
for the carrying on of works, or for the transportation of baggage. Such
as are hired by the day, usually cost half, or, at times, three quarters
of a rupee daily, when employed on the spot; but, if required to proceed
many stages, a whole rupee is demanded. When the _g’horry-waun_ is the
menial of any officer, &c. his pay, generally, is from four to five
rupees monthly; or sometimes four when stationary, and five when
marching. His dress is little better than that of a common _cooly_. Like
all other servants to whose care the feeding of cattle is entrusted,
this domestic will continue to extract some perquisite from whatever he
either receives, or has to purchase. What with _dustooree_, short
weight, over-charges, repairs, medicines, I have always found the
_g’horry-waun_ fully a match for his British compeers, in the proportion
of emoluments derived from whatever money, &c. passed through his hands.
Fortunately, the sum total of expences in the maintenance of a
_hackery_, is very small, when compared with those attendant on a
handsome chariot and pair, parading daily in the park.
The duty of a _g’horry-waun_ is confined to the charge of his cattle; he
seeing them properly rubbed down, and supplied with provender, which
usually consists of the small chaff from various kinds of pulse, or of
the stems of _badjra_, _jewar_, &c. (various kinds of millet,) or of the
_bootah_, (or Indian-corn,) which, being purchased in bundles, he chops,
with a common bill, on a log of wood. When bullocks are allowed _gram_,
(already mentioned,) the usual portion for each is about two, or, at the
utmost, three seers each; the seer weighing about two pounds
avoirdupoise. It is indispensably necessary that this servant should
understand how to load his carriage to advantage, and be able to repair
such parts as may not actually require the aid of artizans. Thus, he
must be competent to sew _saleetah_, or large sacking cloth spread at
the bottom of the _hackery_, and lapping up, over every part, so as to
prevent articles from being lost; and, in some degree, keeping them from
being injured by the weather. He must likewise be able to take off a
wheel, and above all things, he must be a careful, steady driver. This
is the more necessary, owing to the distance between the wheels in all
Hindostanee carriages being very small; and the load being placed, in
most instances, above the level of their upper fellies; causing the
gravity to be thrown very high in a _hackery_ laden with bulky articles;
and, consequently, very liable to be overturned. On the whole, few
accidents of this kind happen; which, considering how much night
travelling prevails in India, is rather surprizing. Possibly this is
owing to the deepness of the ruts on roads frequented by carriages;
whereby the wheels are presented in their course, so as to prevent the
bullocks from deviating. As to the distance a _hackery_ can travel in
the course of a day, that must depend entirely on the state of the road,
the strength and condition of the cattle, the heat of the weather, and
the weight to be drawn: under fair circumstances, from fourteen to
sixteen miles may be effected; but the latter distance is considered a
forced march. To the weight of the carriage and its load, that of the
driver must be added: he usually sitting immediately behind the
bullocks. When the load is unavoidably rather too heavy behind, so as to
cause a tendency to tilting, he sits more forward, between the cattle,
and even occasionally upon the yoke itself. It is evident the latter
position must be extremely oppressive to the cattle; but in _hackeries_
laden with cotton, where the burthen necessarily occupies a great space,
hanging over the rumps of the cattle, such a position is nearly
inevitable.
The _hackeries_ used in that branch of trade, are peculiarly strong, and
invariably drawn by at least three bullocks; though more commonly by
four. Sometimes buffaloes are used; but their pace is very slow, and
they are extremely addicted to lying down in every puddle: their immense
strength is, nevertheless, a great inducement to employing them, where
very heavy commodities are to be carried; but it is found eligible, when
buffaloes are yoked, to travel entirely by night; those animals being by
no means calculated to bear the solar heat, which oppresses them
inconceivably. The native merchants commonly mix one or two among their
teams, and, not unfrequently, cause full thirty-five maunds, equal to
about twenty-four cwt., to be laid on one _hackery_: but the distance
travelled under such an immense load, can seldom amount to twelve miles.
While on the subject of drivers, which I have purposely made the last
among the male servants, it may be as well to offer a few hints
regarding European servants, and English cattle. It might be said, in
brief, that neither the one, nor the other, is found to answer in India.
An European servant must have nearly as many natives to attend him as an
officer requires; he must have a house; and a million of indulgences,
such as nearly abrogate his services, must be shewn towards him. Many
have been taken to India, but the result has generally been, that, after
saving a little money, or making a few friends, especially by farriery,
they have set up in some business, and with very little warning, or
ceremony, quitted their masters; who, on the other hand, were usually
far from desiring their continuance. I think my own memory would furnish
sufficient instances to warrant the assertion, that few, if any, of this
class, can be exempted from the charge of ingratitude.
Really, when all things are considered, it must be owing to excess of
vanity, or to some kindred folly, that any gentleman would retain an
European coachman, or postilion, at full two hundred rupees monthly, all
items included, when an excellent substitute may be found, among the
many natives who follow those professions, and to whom a twelfth part of
that sum is a little fortune. As to an European butler, steward, &c.,
the same objection exists; with the additional inconvenience of having
not only an extra guest at all times, (for his fare will, in every
respect, equal that of his master,) but a spy in livery, who will hear
all the table talk, commercial, military, or political, and retail it,
together with his own opinions and comments, to the whole of the native
domestics.
Whenever a lady has carried out an European female servant, whether old
or young, ugly or beautiful, it has usually happened that a speedy
separation has taken place: many, indeed, have deserted from their
mistresses while touching at Madras. Consequently, nothing but vexation
and disappointment are ever to be expected from the attempt to fix such
a person in her situation after arrival in India. No matter what bonds,
contracts, or agreements, may have been entered into: these are all got
rid of, by the party’s behaving in such a manner as totally precludes
the possibility of detention. It may perhaps be urged, that, by
reference to a magistrate, any unwarrantable conduct might be punished;
but, however reasonable such an expectation might appear in Britain, it
would be found totally inapplicable to India. I much doubt whether any
justice would take cognizance of such a complaint, unless connected with
some felonious proceeding, which might warrant him in committing to
prison. This may appear a strange doctrine, and give but an indifferent
opinion of the police; which, nevertheless, is superior to our own: it
is far easier, for either European or native, to obtain redress in
Calcutta, than at any of our public offices. The fact is, that the
necessity for upholding the British character, however much formerly
neglected by some persons in power, is now so well understood, that,
nothing short of absolute compulsion would actuate a magistrate to
commit an European woman, upon a charge of neglect of duty, inebriety,
insolence, or other such impropriety: the litigation of pecuniary points
would, of course, be referred to the Supreme Court; where the expences
are at least three times as heavy as in the British tribunal, and the
prosecutor would, in the end, have little to boast in regard to gaining
his cause; though, possibly, he might gratify his resentments at a
precious price!
Ladies embarking for India should seek for some female attendant, native
of that country, wishing to return to her home. Many of these women,
whose characters will bear ample scrutiny, come to England in charge of
children, or with their mistresses, and would be extremely glad to go
back under the joint advantages of emolument, and protection. An
advertisement will bring forward many applicants: and a constant search
among the advertisements in the various newspapers, will rarely fail to
answer the same purpose. As numbers of this class promulgate their
wishes to return to India, an additional advantage results from this
measure; because, on arrival in the river, an useful interpreter is at
hand; while, perhaps, a trusty and able servant is obtained; who, being
attached, by many little kindnesses while on board-ship, would continue
to serve, at least until some other might be obtained.
The female who attends a lady while she is dressing, &c., is called an
_Ayah_; pretty nearly corresponding with the ‘lady’s maid’ among us. The
wages of this servant are by no means settled, but may be taken on
average at from eight to twelve rupees monthly. Some are _half-cast_
children; that is, of European fathers and native mothers: brought up in
families from their infancy. To these, good treatment and kindness
should form a valuable compensation for the smallness of wages; and
induce some among them to remain for numbers of years, faithful and
affectionate; but such are by no means numerous, when compared with the
thousands who, at a certain age, either quit in search of places
affording either higher pay, or handsome perquisites; or who, if
handsome, engage as ‘house-keepers to single gentlemen!’ The majority of
_ayahs_ are of Portugueze extraction, being descended from those heroes
who, in times of yore, ‘laid bleeding Asia prostrate at their feet;’ but
who now compose the most contemptible race to be found on earth;
affording to the natives ample scope for comparison between the modern,
and the quondam European. These Portuguese are all ‘good Christians,’
and, in several parts of the country, have small church-establishments,
where they support missionaries; but in that humble style which strongly
represents that abject state of Christianity, when the disciples were in
a state of persecution.
However much their ancient splendor may have been tarnished, yet it
cannot be denied, that, in religious matters, the sable Portugueze of
Bengal have out-done the British completely. They had long ago churches,
and have now one in Calcutta, built at a great expence by an opulent
individual, which may at least competite with the only English steeple
to be seen under the presidency of Fort-William. This solitary type of
English devotion, was built some twenty years ago, in an old burying
ground, where the bones of many worthy men, among whom I reckon my own
grand-father, had lain in peace for scores of years; but which, in
making arrangements for the new edifice, were torn up, and exposed,
without much regard to decency. It would be difficult to pourtray the
horror expressed in the countenances of many natives, who were witnesses
of the disgusting scene: as to their observations, they were indeed
pointed; and conveyed their decided detestation of so sacrilegious an
act. I say sacrilegious, because no Mussulman would allow even the
remains of his most bitter enemy, to be ejected from their last asylum!
Many Portugueze _ayahs_ affect to be in possession of genealogies,
whereby it should appear they are lineally descended from most
illustrious characters; most of whom would, no doubt, be indeed abashed,
could they now take a peep at their ill-fated and degenerate posterity!
It is scarcely to be conceived how much pride is retained by women of
this class: they are fond of adulation, and love the dear word
‘_Signora,_’ even to adoration. To see one of them full dressed on
Christmas Day, is truly diverting; their costume being, as nearly as
circumstances will admit, that of the days of royalty in France, with a
dash of the antique VERA-CRUZ: to remind them, I suppose, of that
eclipse which a gradual intermixture with the natives, has cast upon
their once tawny, but now sable, countenances. One would think, that the
humiliating reflections attendant upon such a comparison, should prompt
them to burn their pedigrees, and to avoid whatever could induce to
retrospection! But, no; the _ayah_ prides herself on that remote
affinity, to which her records give the claim; she retains all the
offensive hauteur of her progenitors; which, being grafted upon the most
obnoxious qualities of the Hindu, or Mussulman, characters, makes a
_tout ensemble_ as ridiculous as it is despicable!
The Hindostanee _ayah_, (by which I mean a woman born either of
Mussulman, or of Hindu, parents,) is rather rare, unless in cases where
young women have lost their _casts_, and, in a manner, become aliens to
their own sects. These are said to be far the most valuable servants;
much superior to such as come under the designation of _baundy_, (_i.e._
slave,) and which have, for the most part, been purchased in their
infancy, from those miserable beings who, during times of scarcity, have
been compelled to sell their offspring; thereby preserving the lives of
both. The obligation, however, does not hold good, according to the
existing regulations, under the British government; slavery being
totally repugnant thereto; though the Mahomedan law authorizes the
purchaser of a child, thus obtained, to retain it, and to command its
services, upon the condition of proper food and raiment, until a certain
age; when liberation takes place. There is, nevertheless, in this a wide
latitude; it being extremely difficult for the slave to substantiate his
age, which can only be computed according to what the purchaser may
choose to assert it to have been when the sale took place: it is
obvious, that he may sink many years in that particular.
Although very few of the Hindostanee women, except such as come under
the above description, serve in the capacity of _ayahs_ attendant upon
ladies, many are employed as nurses to children after quitting the
breast. In such case, an _ayah_ rarely attends more than one child;
hence, in some families, this class of domestics would be extremely
numerous, were it not that few children, born of European parents, are
retained beyond their third, or fourth, year in the country. The
generality of those remaining, even for that term, under the care of
_ayahs_, become crafty, proud, and unmannerly; which has occasioned
several ladies to engage as few as possible of those attendants, and to
give their little ones in charge to bearers, or other male servants;
under whose care they are found to be less vitiated, and, in general,
far more healthy. Unless great attention be paid, _ayahs_ will initiate
their young charges in many practices, and especially in language, such
as must require infinite assiduity to subdue; and, after all, may not be
completely suppressed. Besides, they are usually very slovenly, and
offensive in their persons.
The _Dhye_ is more generally an attendant upon native ladies: many of
these are perfect in all the arts of intrigue; and, while they appear to
be tottering to their graves, are often on their way to manage an
assignation! The dress of these, in most points, corresponds with that
of the Hindostanee _ayah_, but their pay is much less; few receiving
more than five rupees, and the majority serving for four. But, according
to the old saying, ‘what they loose in the dance, they gain in turning
round;’ for what with little presents from both parties, and a number of
domestic perquisites, especially the remains of victuals, cast-off
wearing apparel, donations on certain festivals, overcharges in
purchases, _dustooree_ on all articles bought by the lady, &c. &c. &c.,
these Oriental ‘Mother Coles,’ manage to pick up a very good income,
and, not unfrequently, lend money to their mistresses at the moderate
rate of one _anna_, (_i.e._ a sixteenth,) per month, for every rupee
advanced. This is never done without a pledge, generally of silver or
gold ornaments, which the cunning jades lodge, under various pretexts,
with some friendly goldsmith, by whom they probably were made.
Such a rate of interest may appear very high, but is in general practice
where money is lent for short dates; and then under good security. It is
to be understood, that the money-lending business, especially that on
_bunduck_, or pledge, is confined entirely to the Hindus: Mussulmans are
prohibited by their sacred institutes from receiving, though they are
not so strictly tied down in respect to paying, interest; indeed, owing
to the less frugal habits of this sect, and their greater indulgence in
ostentatious display, few of its individuals can be considered totally
exempt from that heavy fine collected by the Hindu _shroffs_, and
_mahajans_, from such inconsiderate persons as have occasion to seek
their aid.
It is, nevertheless, remarkable, that the generality of such
money-lenders as reside at our several cantonments, are extremely
liberal in their advances to officers, who, when much in arrears, are
often extremely pressed for cash to defray their immediate table
expences: and that, too, even on the most economical plan. I have been
repeatedly kept from starving, by the accommodation afforded by
_shroffs_; whose civility and forbearance form a most striking contrast
with the punctual, and greedy, claims of both the Christian, and the
Jewish, Shylocks of Britain. It must not be denied, that, when
practicable, they will obtain some kind of security for their loans;
which is but reasonable: but many hundreds of rupees have been furnished
to me, simply on my acknowledgement, on a scrap of paper, barely
specifying the sum and date, without any form such as could have
validated the claim in case of my demise, or of my being prosecuted on
the occasion. The truth is, that, where they see no danger, they feel no
reluctance.
The generality of _dhyes_ attendant upon native ladies, hold a regular
intercourse with some one of the above class, by whom all difficulties
resulting from irregular receipts of pay are removed. This is
wonderfully facilitated by the circumstance of being related to some
young _khedmutgar_ in master’s service. Of this kind of family compact I
have already spoken; therefore it is not necessary to enter into details
at this moment: my readers will form a just opinion of the situation in
which a gentleman is placed, when parties are formed, both before and
behind the _purdah_, (curtain,) to watch his motions, and to carry on
the great work of deception. In this, I speak feelingly, having, like
hundreds of others, many of whom appeared studious to perpetuate their
misfortune, been the dupe of such coalitions; from which it is, indeed,
very difficult to escape. The attachment of many European gentlemen to
their native mistresses, is not to be described! An infatuation, beyond
all comparison, often prevails, causing every confidence, of whatever
description, to be reposed in the sable queen of the _haram!_ I do not
mean to say that the above deceptions are universal; for I could adduce
instances, wherein native women have conducted themselves invariably in
the most decorous manner, and evinced the utmost fidelity, in every
particular, to their keepers; some have absolutely sacrificed property
to no inconsiderable amount, and given up every pretension to _cast_;
that is, to admission among those of the same sect, or faith, braving
the most bitter taunts, and the reproaches of their friends and
relatives.