often, and so grievously, a sufferer, that, at length, a radical cure
became indispensable. I made a point of lagging behind sometimes, or
perhaps of riding back, and of stopping my camels, &c., to see what,
besides my own property, might be on their backs. It is inconceivable
what bundles of cloaths, pots, and pans, were burthened: nay, even
perroquets sometimes formed a part of the group. In the first instance,
I gave fair warning, that whatever was found thus clandestinely laden,
should be destroyed: after that, I spared nothing; but caused all the
brass vessels to be beat up with a tent-mallet, and the rest of the
luggage to be burnt. The consequence was such as might be expected; my
baggage was always up in excellent time, and my cattle were no more
chafed, and galled, by excessive burthens.
I anticipate the observation, that, ‘the drivers were to blame.’ True,
but few of them have the resolution to withstand solicitation, or,
perhaps, a small douceur, in some shape or other; and as to discharging
them, it is not always practicable, the greatest fear being that they
should discharge themselves. Elephants and camels must not be put into
the hands of novices: neither will they always submit to be ruled by
strangers.
As I have just said, the bearers are almost always principally concerned
in these instances; the reason for which is, that every other servant
has usually some family, or goes share in some _tattoo_, (poney,) which
conveys his luggage: not that they would be a whit more scrupulous, were
it not for the fear of discovery; to which they would be peculiarly
liable. On the other hand, the Bearer, being perhaps merely a temporary
servant; and, if I may so term it, an alien in the camp, has no such
means of disposing of his luggage, as falls to the lot of the regular
servants: besides, all this tribe are either most penurious, or most
dissipated. They either hoard every _cowrie_; or run in debt, and then,
to avoid payment—run away.
The immediate business of a head-bearer is to prepare for his master’s
dressing; seeing that the linen is all properly in order, boots and
shoes cleaned, coat, &c. brushed, side-arms, &c. bright; also that the
palanquin is clean, and free from defect; that the water used for
drinking be purified; that the kettle is put on in due time: in general,
the inferior bearers clean the furniture, and carry the _chowry_, (or
whisk,) and swing a kind of _punkah_, (or fan,) made either from a large
palm leaf, or with split bamboo, and printed cotton; of which pieces are
to be had stamped expressly for that purpose; they are swung backwards
and forwards to cool a room: the butt of the _punkah-stick_ resting on
the ground. A _punkah_ is, by some, used instead of a _chattah_, (or
umbrella); but it is very inferior as a defence against either sun,
wind, or rain. The natives in some parts, especially to the northward,
use these _punkahs_ very generally; but, of late, they seem to have
rather changed in favor of the _chattah_, great numbers of which are now
conveyed, as an article of merchandize, from the lower provinces to
Benares, Lucknow, &c.
The dress of the _cahar_, by which I mean the up-country bearers,
usually consists of a colored turban, blue being, if anything, the
prevailing color; the head-bearer generally has a short _coortah_, not
unlike that of the _mosaulchy_, and, as well as all the inferiors, wears
a _doty_, in the usual manner: though some few wear a kind of
petticoat-trowser, not unlike the Highland kelt. _Cummer-bunds_ are also
in general use; though, with few exceptions, of a very coarse quality.
Many gentlemen present their _bearers_, _hirkarahs_, _peons_, _syces_,
_khedmutgars_, and _mosaulchies_, annually, with a set of _turbans_ and
_cummer-bunds_, all of the same color; so that the whole appear, to a
certain extent, in livery. In this indulgence many of the natives take
great pride: on the whole, indeed, they are as vain as our beau-footmen;
and, like them, can assume wondrous airs, when they have to deal with
the servant of a person inferior in rank to their own master.
While speaking of bearers, I shall describe the various kinds of
palanquins in use; observing, that the greatest improvements, which
perhaps ever took place in any vehicle, have been brought forward in the
construction of this _sine quâ non_ of Indian luxury. In order to
preserve due order, I shall commence with a description of the
_naulkeen_, or _naulkee_, it being the first in rank among the
contrivances of this description.
This immense carriage is only used by crowned heads, and may be
compared to a portable throne, on which the prince sits with his feet
crossed, and tucked up under his hams, (the usual sitting position of
Asiatics,) having at his back an immense pillow, and under him a
suitable bedding, both sumptuously ornamented; besides these, many
smaller pillows lie scattered about, to be applied as may be found
agreeable. The frame of the _naulkeen_ may be about five feet long by
four broad, well secured at the corners, and taped at the bottom in a
very close manner, both lengthwise and breadthwise, so as to leave no
interstices. The sides are raised with richly carved wood-work,
generally gilded in a very shewy style. The _naulkeen_ is carried,
like a litter, by eight men, who support two poles, one running under
each side-bar, and projecting before and behind; two bearers being at
each extremity, the same as in a palanquin. This vehicle, though it
appears extremely ponderous, is said, by the bearers, to be far
lighter than one of those _Mahannah-palanquins_ I am about to
describe: no doubt but eight men must feel less pressure,
individually, from such a weight, supposing it to be equal to that of
the _mahannah_, which is, to say the truth, a very heavy, though a
very comfortable, machine.
The _dooly_, or covered litter, was certainly the parent of all the
_palanquin_ kind; it is yet in very common use among the less opulent
classes, and especially employed for the conveyance of women; in our
armies this little vehicle affords excellent means, of transporting sick
and wounded men, either to the hospitals, or on a march. Its usual
construction is extremely simple; consisting of a small _carpoy_, or
bedstead, perhaps five feet by two and a half; having four stump feet,
about nine or ten inches from the ground, into which the sides, and end
pieces, are tenoned. A very slight frame of bamboo work, equal in size
to the frame of the litter, is placed over it horizontally; serving as a
roof for the support of a double cover, (generally of red _karwah_, or
of blue, or white calico,) which lies over the roof, and falls all
around; so as to enclose the whole space between the roof and the
bedstead. There is seldom any bedding but what is provided by the party
carried in the _dooly_; unless it be one appertaining to some family,
thereby it is frequently used: in such case, the interior is made very
comfortable, and the cover ornamented with borders, fringes, &c. This
last kind, being almost exclusively appropriated to the _zenanah_, is on
a very small scale; rarely exceeding three feet, by little more than
two: of such, thousands are to be hired at Calcutta, and most of the
provincial towns. They carry very easy; often, indeed, having only two
bearers under the bamboo, with one carrying a _bangy_, or a bundle, who
relieves the others occasionally; but, for the most part, four bearers
are employed. The closeness of the interior, added to the very trifling
elevation, (whereby the dust cannot fail to be offensive,) and the very
insufficient guard against rain, combine to render this vehicle by no
means pre-eminent for comfort; especially to delicate females.
It should seem that, in the course of time, an improvement was made in
the construction of litters, by giving the bamboo, or pole, a
considerable arch in that part which went over the interior. Thus the
frame was raised considerably; while the rider was enabled to sit
upright, rather more conveniently than when the bamboo was straight:
this, however, could only be done towards the centre; the legs being
crossed under the hams, according to the usual sitting position of the
natives. To them, such a posture, being confirmed by long habit, in use
from their infancy, is a relaxation; whereas, to a person not so
accustomed, nothing can be more irksome and fatiguing. Gradually, the
sides of the vehicle were ornamented, and changed from the simple
parallelogram to an oblongated hexagon; which is now very common: the
bamboo was also yet more arched, and its anterior projection carried out
in an upward curve to the length of full twelve feet or more: it was
also covered with broad-cloth throughout; that part above the seat being
ornamented with silk fringes, and the fore-end furnished with a brass
ornament; either a tiger’s, or an alligator’s head, or perhaps some
imaginary non-descript, placed at the end of a brass ferule, enclosing
the bamboo for half a yard at least.
Still there was abundant room for amelioration; but the natives could
brook no encroachment on the publicity thus given to their persons,
while seated in a vehicle, which, owing to the weight being nearly on a
level with the bearers’ shoulders, (a great portion, namely, the head
and shoulders, being far above it) added to the awkward arch above,
which operated as a lever, was peculiarly unsteady; ever threatening to
upset with the least inattention to equipoise. The danger of adding to
the superincumbent weight, of which the mischief was sensibly felt,
caused a slight reduction of the lever, by lengthening the suspending
laths a few inches, so as to lower the centre of gravity. But, by way of
recompence, perhaps, for the supposed degradation, a rich covering of
broad-cloth was thrown over the arch; having in it several bamboo-laths
running at right angles with the bamboo; and forming a canopy,
corresponding in form with the curve, about four and a half feet in
width; of which the corners were tied down to those of the palanquin
frame, and the edges were trimmed with an open quadrated, or reticulated
fringe, full six inches in depth.
As it would be a sin to spoil so costly an awning, it was taken off in
bad weather, and put into a bag made of wax-cloth, to be carried on one
of the bearers’ shoulders; in the mean while, a large sheet, of the same
material, was thrown over the bamboo, to keep the inhabitant from being
washed away. It is not above twenty-five years back, that this kind of
palanquin was in use among the European residents of India, and
especially among the military.
Probably in consequence of a painted canvas awning being used, curving
down gradually at the sides, not unlike a _testudo_, this machine was
called a ‘_fly-palanquin_.’ It was, however, made full six feet in
length, and of a comfortable breadth, being also furnished with a good
pillow or two, and a neat bedding, stuffed with that kind of cotton
known by the name of _seemul_. The bamboo frame, on which the canvas was
stretched, and of which a ruffle about six inches in depth remained
pendant, was lined with colored silk, chintz, &c. giving the interior
rather a finished appearance. I have no doubt but the form of this kind
of palanquin, as in use among the natives, gave rise to the use of
_punkahs_, in preference to _chattahs_; it must be obvious that the
former, being flat, and furnished with a flounce full half a yard in
depth, was more conformable to the lateral apertures than an umbrella
could be; while, at the same moment, it was far more portable in passing
through those narrow streets and gullies, characterizing every great
city in India.
Time ‘astonished the natives,’ as well as the Europeans, by bringing
forth the _Mahannah-palanquin_. This vehicle, now so common, has
entirely banished the _fly-palanquin_, of which it would probably be
difficult to find one in use with any European throughout the country:
so general, indeed, has been the adoption of the former, that many of
the natives, in every part, now either ride in _mahannahs_, or have
their _doolies_ constructed in imitation of them. The _mahannah_
resembles an immense chest, standing on four feet, raising it nearly a
foot from the ground. About two-fifths of each side is open, serving for
a door; the residue being usually closed up, either with very thin
pannels, or with canvas, leather, &c. The doors are sometimes made to
close, by means of two Venetian frames, that, when brought from their
recesses, meet in the centre, but at other times run back, on small
metal wheels, in grooves behind the pannels respectively.
The roof is made of very thin pannelling board, laid longitudinally over
slight battens a little cambered; though some are quite flat: over the
boards a stout, but thin, canvas is well stretched, and beaded down at
the edges: this is usually painted white. The fore, and back, parts are
in general closed, with the exception of two small Venetian, or perhaps
glass, windows, near the top; to allow a draught of air. The exterior is
painted according to the fancy of the proprietor; often very handsomely,
and well varnished. The front and hind poles attach at about
three-fifths up the body of the vehicle; being rivetted to iron ribs,
firmly screwed by means of diverging claws to the main pieces, they are
further steadied by iron stays, proceeding from the top and bottom
corners, of each end respectively, to the pole; to which they are bolted
at about eighteen inches from the body. The poles are always covered
with leather.
The body of a _mahannah_ is generally about six feet, or six feet two
inches long, and from twenty-six to thirty inches in width; the height
is sufficient to allow a tall person’s sitting upright, without a hat.
The beddings of most are covered with chintz of neat patterns; while a
small piece of carpet, tiger’s-skin, morocco-leather, or some such
article, is spread at the feet, to prevent its being soiled.
In most _mahannahs_ there are racks, which serve to support the back;
others are provided with two small, or one large pillow, also covered
with chintz. Above the doors it is common to screw in flat brass knobs,
whereon to button either canvas or leather curtains, that will roll up
occasionally, and buckle like the aprons of gigs, &c.: there are also
studs, of the same description, fixed at the sides of the doors, to
fasten down the edges of the curtains. One principal use, however, of
such studs, is, to affix _cheeks_ made of _kuss-kuss_, to be watered
when journeying any distance.
The _mahannah_ is unquestionably a very heavy vehicle, and, being
totally devoid of elasticity, far more oppressive to the bearers than
any machine on a slighter construction. Yet the average rate of
travelling may be computed at from three and a half, to a quarter
wanting of four miles, within the hour, in going great distances; such
as from Chunar to Calcutta, at the proper season, when the waters are
not out, and the heat not too oppressive. That estimate includes all
stops for changes of bearers, which, in travelling _dawk_, (that is,
_post_,) will take place at certain stages, from ten to fifteen miles
apart. Thus, a journey of four hundred miles may be made in about five
days, with great ease; the night being often more favorable than the day
to making progress; especially from March to the middle of June. During
that period, the roads are every where good, the grass jungles in most
places burnt away, and fewer tigers lurk near the highways. It is often
necessary to lie by for a few hours during the mid-day; when the ground
is so hot as absolutely to scorch the bearers’ feet. At such times, the
_kuss-kuss tatties_ are peculiarly serviceable; but, in case none are
affixed, the _guttah-tope_, or palanquin-cover, must be kept wet; as
already observed, in describing the occupations of the _bheesty_, or
water-carrier.
Ladies are usually conveyed about Calcutta, or any where for short
distances, in a kind of palanquin, called a _boҫhah_. This has its poles
fixed much in the same manner as in the _mahannah_, but its body is of a
very different form; being a compound of our sedan chair with the body
of a chariot. Its deep shape, and its seat, much resemble the former;
but having two doors, one on each side, with one window in front, as
well as a small one behind, all furnished with Venetians and glasses,
give it, in those respects, some claim to alliance with the latter. I
should have observed, that most of the gentlemen residing at Calcutta,
ride in _boҫhahs_; which afford a better look-out, are more portable,
and can turn about in narrow places, where a _mahannah_ could not:
besides, they are far lighter. The _boҫhah_ made expressly for a lady,
is fitted up in some style, and always has four large tassels, commonly
of white silk, hanging at the four upper corners. There are usually
pockets in front, and to the doors; the same as in chariots, &c.
About Dacca, Chittagong, Tipperah, and other mountainous parts, a very
light kind of conveyance is in use, called a _taum-jaung_, _i.e._ ‘a
support to the feet.’ This consists of an arm-chair, with a low back, at
the sides of which two poles are affixed, even with the seat; from the
two fore legs of the chair, iron stays project forward, supporting a
foot-board, placed diagonally, so as to meet the natural position of the
soles when the feet are thrown forward, much the same as the foot-boards
of coach-boxes, only on a very light construction. In some instances,
the _taum-jaungs_ (vulgarly called _tom-johns_) are carried the same as
the _naulkeen_; that is, by the four ends of the poles resting on the
shoulders of as many bearers, all independent of each other. Experience
has, however, proved such to be a very dangerous practice; for, if one
of the bearers stumbles, the machine must inevitably be overset: the
fall from such a height, especially if proceeding at a quick pace, is
not devoid of danger. To remedy this, it has latterly become a custom to
suspend two stout batons, by means of strong doubled cords, between the
ends of the poles, before and behind; making such an allowance in
respect to the length of cord, or sling, as may allow the poles to come
down about as low as the bearers’ hips. The batons are slung by their
middles, one bearer supporting the fore, the other the hind, part of
each; all moving between the two side poles, but nearly in a line one
behind the other. This does not altogether obviate the possibility of
falling, by means of a stumble; but it lessens that danger considerably,
and renders the accident less severe; the seat being much lowered.
In this respect, the _boҫhah_ is also safer than the _mahannah_; the
former being so much nearer the ground, and the erect position of the
rider rendering him less liable to injury. When the hind bearers of a
_mahannah_ fall, not only the legs of the vehicle, but the head of its
inhabitant, may be injured: such accidents are rarely attended with any
other inconvenience than a job for the carpenter. If the fall takes
place when a bearer is pushing behind, resting the palm of his hand
against the butt end of the hinder pole, as is very common, there will
be an additional impetus, by no means favorable to the machine;
especially if the foremost bearers give way. Most of the _mahannah_
palanquins have a box under the feet, and perhaps one under the head
also, made water tight, and furnished with a lock. This, when
travelling, is extremely convenient; insuring the presence of many
little articles, both of raiment and refreshment, which, if trusted to a
_bangy_, might not arrive in due time.
The _bangy_ is a slip of bamboo, perhaps five feet in length, which, in
the middle, may be four inches in width; the thickness about an inch;
towards the ends it tapers a little, and has shoulders left, whereby to
secure the nets, wherein are two baskets, made either of rattans, or of
reeds, very closely worked, and probably covered with painted canvas, of
leather. The _bangy-wollah_, that is, the bearer who carries the
_bangy_, supports the bamboo on his shoulder, so as to equipoise the
baskets suspended at each end. If not overladen, the _bangy_ will
generally keep pace with the palanquin; the bearer shifting the bamboo
from one, to the other shoulder, as he proceeds.
Many gentleman have _r’hunts_, or _r’huts_, for the conveyance of their
native ladies, either on a march, or to take an airing occasionally: in
such case, a man must be employed to drive, and to take care of the
bullocks. He is designated the ‘_g’horry-waun_;’ or carriage servant.
His dress cannot be reduced to any exact standard, but will generally be
found to resemble that of the _khedmutgar_; his pay being ordinarily
from four to six rupees monthly. The generality of persons following
this avocation, are rather elderly, and possess the outward shew of
great decency and respectability; but I believe they are, with few
exceptions, by no means of a character such as would be supposed from
their venerable and sanctified appearance. I have seen so much, and the
instances are so common, of the intrigues carried on, or connived at, by
_g’horry-wauns_, as to satisfy me of their being as great hypocrites as
are to be found on earth. The construction of a _r’hut_ is so very
curious as almost to defy description.
The _g’horry-waun_ sits astride that part of the fore-frame which may be
compared with the pole and traverse of one of our four-wheeled
carriages, under a _seiwaun_, or _semiaun_, made of the same stuff as
the covering, supported in nearly a horizontal position, by two slight
poles fixed into iron ferules at the body of the frame, and proceeding,
at and angle of about 45° to the foremost edge of the _seiwaun_. The
bullocks are managed by means of a strong cord, passed through their
_septums_, or divisions between their nostrils, and tied over the crowns
of their heads, where the rein, made also of rope, attaches: this
effectually curbs the cattle. Possibly such a device may appear to
partake of cruelty; but experience has proved, that no other mode is
adequate to keeping this fiery, restless, and vicious, breed of cattle
in tolerable subordination. The _g’horry-waun_ is provided with a severe
goad: the application of which, to the hind quarters of the bullocks,
causes them to keep up a good smart trot. When they are tolerably quiet,
the driver’s feet generally suffice, to keep them to their pace: but,
when all other modes fail, he twists their tails, and thus urges them to
their best speed. The reins should serve both to stop, and to guide;
but, as the bullocks are not always prompt in turning when only so acted
upon, the tail is often resorted to, as a never-failing rudder!
Your true home-bred Englishmen can have little idea of the rate at which
a pair of oxen can draw one of these _r’huts_; he cannot readily
imagine, that they can travel from four to six miles within the hour;
and that, too, where the _g’horry-ka-leek_, or track of a wheel, is
scarcely to be found. I have seen a pair of _Nagore_, or of _Guzzerat_,
bullocks, (I forget which,) standing full sixteen hands at the withers,
(making allowance for the humps on the shoulders of all cattle bred in
that quarter;) that could with ease trot with a _r’hut_ at the rate of
eight miles within the hour. But such must not be considered as common:
perhaps five miles may be the truest average. Nor is it to be
understood, that bullocks keep up an even pace, as horses do; on the
contrary, they either proceed at their quickest trot, or at a walk;
there is little medium: the fact is, that, not being trained to a
continuance of one set pace, but urged by starts, at the will of their
driver, they want that habit which would improve their wind.