undergone, even in this kind of boat, and supposing it to be perfectly
fitted up with the above defences against bad weather: but such will
rarely turn out to be the case. The sea-cot is now of singular use; its
hooks being withdrawn from the ship’s beams, and inserted in those of
the budgrow. Those who had standing bed-places, must spread their
mattresses, &c. on the floor: all must sit upon their trunks, or
whatever may be at hand; and every little article of convenience brought
from the ship will become useful. Candles, candle-sticks, tin-ware,
glasses, &c. are now invaluable. As to table-cloths, there being no
table, they may be cheerfully dispensed with; as may also knives and
forks, there being no plates; it being probable that curry and rice,
prepared by the boatmen, will form the bill of fare. Those who are fond
of savoury dishes, may, in this instance, gratify themselves with a
repast in high estimation among the gentlemen of India: viz. a dandy’s
curry; but I fear, that those who have been in the habit of eating made
dishes, at a distance from the culinary operations, may not altogether
relish the manner of preparation, nor be invariably pleased with the
appearance of the cook; whose habiliments will probably consist of a
cloth wrapped round his waist, then passed between his thighs, and a
small cap, if the party be a Mussulman; if a Hindu, the entire dress may
be composed of a small cord tied round his waist for the purpose of
supporting a narrow piece of cloth passed between his thighs thus barely
answering the purpose of a fig-leaf. Herpetic eruptions, in large
patches, all over the back, breast and arms, together with obvious
symptoms of a more troublesome cutaneous complaint, about the fingers,
&c. are by no means rare, yet never disqualify the scratching sufferer
from officiating as cook to the crew! Were such _trifles_ to be
objectionable, it might be somewhat difficult to get a dinner dressed.
It being utterly impracticable to row a budgrow against the tide, which
ordinarily runs from three to six miles in the hour, and many
difficulties presenting themselves to render it by no means easy to
track along the shore, especially where the mud-banks shelve out a great
way, the manjee will probably come to near some village, or in some
creek, during the ebb; and, as it rarely happens that the first of the
flood is taken, particularly during the night time, in all probability
the best part of three days will be expended between Kedgeree and
Calcutta. If a few bottles of wine, a small quantity of biscuit, a piece
of beef, or of pork, and a pack of cards, have been supplied from the
ship, so much the more agreeably will the time be passed; but I cannot
forbear from observing, that intemperance at this time rarely fails to
bring on fevers, such as baffle the art of man. Those who heat their
blood on first entering the country, whether by drinking, or by exposure
to the sun, become subject to diseases of the liver which are too often
incurable, and finally, though after some years perhaps, drag their
lingering victim to the grave. With respect to bathing, it is not only
insalubrious, as practised by persons who have not proper apparatus at
hand, but highly dangerous, on account of the incredible numbers of
alligators and sharks, which infest not only the great river, but every
little creek, and puddle, within reach of the tide.
The manjee generally endeavors to reach Culpee, Fultah, or Diamond
Harbour, with the first tide: at either of those places many articles of
provision may be had, and there will be found some persons who can speak
a little English. These will invariably do all in their power to
encourage the purchase of many things of no use whatever, but which
become perquisites to the manjee, on his passengers quitting the vessel.
Abundance of poultry may be seen; but, with the exception of a curry,
there will no method of dressing them; unless accidentally some person
be on board, in whatever capacity, who can trim a fowl, and roast it. If
fish are to be had, they will come under the same difficulty; so that,
like Sancho, in the midst of plenty, a man may be next to starving, if
he cannot make up his mind to partake of the dandies’ curry.
It is proper to caution against eating much fruit, though it may be
perfectly ripe: unseasonable avidity in this way has proved fatal to
many on their arrival. A few bananas will not incommode; but the
cocoa-nut, however pleasant and refreshing it may be, should be partaken
of very sparingly; it being extremely apt to affect the bowels, as is
also the jack.
Those who have never had an opportunity of seeing the fire-fly, will be
agreeably surprized at the millions of those little luminaries, which at
night bespangle every bush: displaying themselves in the most vivid
manner. The hind parts of these insects, which may be about the size of
common house-flies, are replete with a brilliant substance, similar to
that contained in the glow-worm, and, like it, equally innocent. It is
extremely curious, that, in many parts of the ocean, immense shoals of
the luminous sea-maggot, each about the size of a man’s finger, should
be seen at nights, causing the water to assume a phosphoric appearance.
In sailing through these living shoals, abundance may be drawn up in
buckets; while, at the same time, innumerable fishes of prey may be
heard, or seen, rushing among them, and, no doubt, making many a hearty
meal. The great distance from all land at which these shoals are to be
found, must cause us to wonder at their origin, and at their future
purposes; for we can scarcely suppose them to be derived from
terrestrial parents; nor is it very easy to reconcile to ourselves, that
they change into fishes of any kind. It should rather seem that
all-bountiful Providence has created them for the sole purpose of
affording sustenance to those fishes, which, in consequence of their
remaining, perhaps altogether, remote from every shore, would, but for
these _larvæ_, (as we must, for want of knowing better, call them,) be
unable to subsist.
Persons arriving from Europe, rarely have any but British coins; in the
disbursing of which many impositions will be practised. The best mode is
to tender the whole, without delay, to some of the English agency
houses, who will readily pay their full value; it being often a matter
of difficulty to obtain a few guineas for their friends who may be about
to embark, without paying an exorbitant sum to the _shroff’s_, or native
bankers, who can acquire them only from such persons as import with the
Indiamen, and are rarely acquainted with their real value.
Accounts are generally kept in current rupees, which are considered,
(though in themselves nominal, there being no such coin,) the standard
to which all other denominations of money should be reduced: this is, in
fact, the application of one term, whereby all others are to be
appreciated. It is often found useful to have a second column, in every
folio, wherein to note the corresponding amounts in sicca rupees, they
being in general use. The infinite variety, both of gold mohurs, and of
rupees, renders it highly necessary for the young adventurer to be
careful, lest he should receive such as are of inferior value; a trick
extremely common among servants, as well as _shroffs_, _sircars_, and
shop-keepers; all of whom will exercise their cunning to obtain the
smallest advantage, and derive peculiar satisfaction from involving the
matter in as much confusion as possible.
The Calcutta seer is fixed at eighty sicca rupees weight; the factors’
maund, of the same place, amounts to one-tenth less, on account of its
having but seventy-two siccas to its seer. In the upper provinces, even
the neighbouring villages often vary to a great extent; some seers being
only sixty-four pice, while others are ninety-six; the pice and the
sicca rupee being nearly of a weight. Nor is the value of a pice, which
is a copper coin, less uncertain; on some days they are at sixty to a
rupee, at other times, as high as sixty-five or sixty-six; just as may
happen to suit the _shroffs_, who, by this fluctuation, create a kind of
stock-jobbing traffic; whereby they rob the public as much, and as
often, as they please; no one interfering to control this nefarious and
unparalleled insolence!
The following varieties regarding the _guz_ should be understood; they
being what formerly were in use, and upon which many details of ancient
occurrences and measurements depend.
The _guz-soudah_, 24⅔ of a finger, as measured by Haroon Resheed from
the hand of one of his slaves. This was the basis of the nilometer, and
of the yard for measuring cloths. The _guz-me-sahet_ measured
twenty-eight fingers, and that of Humaion thirty-two: the latter was
used by order of Sheer Khan, and Selim Khan, for the measurement of
cultivated lands. Akber also allowed a _guz_ of forty-six fingers to be
used for cloth only, and one measuring forty-two _isecunderees_, (small
coins of base silver,) to be used for other purposes. This is called the
_secundry-guz_. A _coss_ is generally accepted at two English miles, and
will, for the most part, be found to come within a mere trifle of that
measurement. In some places, they reckon by the _puckah_, or long coss;
in others, by the _ghow-coss_, which alludes to that distance the lowing
of cattle may be heard: this is also called the _cutcha-coss_; meaning
imperfect, or short. The fact is, that the length of a coss is perfectly
undefined by any proper standard, or explanation. What else, indeed, can
be expected in a country where there are neither public roads, nor inns,
public conveyances, nor even mile stones, or directing posts, on the
most practised routes.
Among other salutary and useful, but unfortunately temporary,
regulations, the Emperor Akber fixed the coss at 5000 guz, equal to 4757
yards, or two miles, five furlongs, of our standard. Shah Jehan
afterwards encreased it, by the addition of one furlong; but both their
measurements gradually fell into disuse, and the old nominal coss of
Hindostan again came into vogue. Including all the variations, however,
in what are called puckah-cosses there appear less anomalies than might
be expected in a range of 1700 miles, throughout which no determinate
law, on that subject, obtains. Computing by horizontal measurements,
between places whose distances are accurately known, it appears that the
coss may be taken at a mile and nine-tenths: in this, one mile in seven
is thrown into the computation, to account against the winding of roads.
In the Malwa country, the cosses are about an eighth longer than in the
Company’s dominions towards that quarter; while, in the vicinity of
Masulipatam they are in the same proportion shorter. The goondy coss of
the Nagpore district, is about three miles. Perhaps the most absurd mode
of ascertaining the length of a coss, which, by the by, must be a very
short one, and, according to the statement of Abu Fazil, was practised
among the Hindus, depended on ‘One thousand steps taken by a woman
bearing a child’ (of what age is not specified) ‘in her arms, and a jar
of water’, (also indefinite as to bulk,) ‘on her head!’ Again, ‘the
distance a man could go, at a quick pace, without being out of breath’,
was accounted a coss! Others determined that measurement by ‘plucking a
green leaf, and bearing it on their heads until it became dry!’
The most rational, and simple mode of adjustment, appears to be that
ordered by Sheer Khan, viz. sixty _jereebs_ of sixty _guz_ each. This
would be about 3500 yards; being only twenty less than two statute
miles. Whenever the emperor marched with his armies, persons were
appointed to measure his route, by means of bamboos cut to the length of
twelve and a half _ilahi-guz_; four hundred bamboos being accounted a
coss; which, as already specified, amounted to two miles and five
furlongs.
The land-measure in use among the Europeans of Calcutta, is thus
arranged.
20 feet by 20, equal to 400 square feet make 1 _cottah_,
20 cottahs 1 _beegah_ or
_bigah_
The natives are more particular in their divisions of the beegah, they
average its parts in the following manner.
30 square feet make 1 _chattack_,
16 chattacks 1 _cottah_ or
_biswah_,
20 cottahs, or biswahs, (_i.e._ twentieths) 1 _beegah_ or
_bigah_.
Among the peasantry, other beegahs are in use, viz. one which has an
area of 3600 _ilahi-guz_, equal to 3025 square yards; but, in general,
the _dessy-bigah_ of only 1600 square yards, prevails. This _ilahi-guz_
is divided into twenty-four tesuj, each of which, in the long _guz_
should be equal to the breadth of eight ordinary barley corns; but in
the short _guz_, only of six. The former was used in great works; the
latter in small ones, such as manufactures, &c.
All goods being landed under the inspection of custom-house officers,
the passenger will have little opportunity of interfering in regard to
his baggage, or merchandize. Nor should I recommend his attempting,
personally, to transact any business before he may have delivered his
letters of credit, or of introduction. That should be his first step;
both because it will be the means of managing all his concerns with
facility, and, probably, of being comfortably situated, without having
occasion to resort to a tavern.
Here I deem it an indispensable duty, to warn the young adventurer not
to dissipate his money, ruin his health, and injure his reputation, by
frequenting taverns. In England, where persons who do not keep house
must occasionally sit down to a meal in public, custom has not only
connived at, but sanctioned, the resort to coffee-houses, &c. With us,
these afford convenience to thousands, who could never provide so
comfortably at home, at the same expence. The coffee-houses in Europe
may likewise be considered as the rendezvous of persons in the same line
of business, and offering the opportunity for adjusting a thousand
matters, which, either owing to remote residence, or to the pressure of
other concerns, could not else be brought to immediate conclusion.
The taverns in India are upon a very different plan: they are either of
the first rate, at which public dinners are occasionally given; or they
are of that mean description which receive all who have a rupee to
spend, under the determination of extracting that rupee, in some shape
or other. The former class is very confined in numbers, but the latter
are abundantly numerous, and may be readily distinguished by the
promiscuous company, the shabbiness of the treatment, and the excess of
imposition practised, especially on novices. It is extremely easy to
avoid the necessity for running into the mouths of these leviathans: all
that is requisite, being merely to call at the first office, or shop,
and to enquire for the residence of the gentleman to whom the letter of
introduction may be addressed. No ceremony should be used in explaining
the circumstances, and in soliciting the aid of a servant to lead the
way. I never yet heard of a want of civility on such occasions.
In speaking thus confidently regarding a letter of introduction, I am
pre-supposing, that the case alludes to a person not appointed to the
service of the Company: for I cannot conceive what could induce any man
of respectability to visit India, without some substantial
recommendation, or, indeed, unless under some agreement, or sufficient
assurance of being employed in such manner as might tend to certain
advantage. Nothing can be more forlorn than the situation of a mere
adventurer, on his arrival in India! With money in his pocket, he may
assuredly subsist; but, without some friend to introduce him into
society, he may remain for years without being noticed; for, throughout
the East, and especially at the several presidencies, he who knows
nobody, him will nobody know! Residence at a tavern, is, in itself, a
perfect disqualification among persons of repute; as implying either an
addiction to liquor, or a predilection for low company.
In saying this, I must not be understood as denying, that some worthy
characters have been rescued from perpetual degradation, by accidental
intercourse with persons of peculiar sensibility: but such nice
feelings, and that unqualified liberality, which may have been
occasionally discovered in a few individuals, are rarely united; and,
when they are, it too often happens that the power to render them
effectively beneficial is altogether wanting. A man may be thoroughly
convinced of the worthiness of his protegé, but it will not always
follow that society will join him in opinion. In considering the state
of society in India, this will be evident: its being strongly inculcated
will prove serviceable to many, who may have mis-conceived the subject
in general: or who may have been led, by a too sanguine disposition, to
deem the whole toil, risk, and solicitude as being over, so soon as
their feet can rest on the terra firma of Hindostan.
The ordinary mode in which an European is attacked, on his first arrival
at Calcutta, is by the tender of a bearer, carrying a large umbrella, to
shelter master from the sun, or rain. There is something about a
stranger, in that quarter, which instantly announces him to all the
predatory tribe, who wait at the wharfs in expectation of living booty:
but, if such were not the case, his total ignorance of the language
would be sufficient to determine their conduct. The bearer, who is in
league with that numerous horde of miscreants called _sircars_,
abounding, not only at Calcutta, but throughout the lower provinces,
speedily conveys the hint to his associates, when a smooth-faced chap,
who speaks English well enough to be understood, and who comprehends
more than he will acknowledge, advances, and making a respectful
obeisance, called a _salaam_, by bending his head downwards, and placing
the palm of his right hand to his forehead, makes an offer of his
services to the stray Briton.
However prepared a youth may be, by all the cautious injunctions of
friends, and by the detail of knaveries practised by such characters,
still it is by no means easy to avoid the snare! When we reflect on the
anxiety inseparably attendant upon arrival in a country where every
thing is new, every thing strange, and where, in case of disappointment,
all must be misery; it should not surprize us to find so much dependence
placed on those who cheer the novice, by speaking to him in his native
tongue. But, admitting the folly of confiding in any stranger, how is
the case to be ameliorated? Ignorant of the language, as well as of the
customs; totally unacquainted with any soul on the spot; and eager to
obtain a shelter from the oppressive heats; what is the poor adventurer
to do? He cannot remain in the boat! He cannot take root, and vegetate,
at the water side! Nor can he perambulate the public roads, until
fatigue shall sink him to the dust, or some benevolent, and inspired
European may, on perceiving his distress, offer him an asylum! What then
is to be done?—Why, the _sircar_ must lead him to some paltry tavern, in
which he either is interested, or from whose keeper he receives a
douceur for introducing the guest. In the mean time, his baggage, with
the exception of such minutiæ as may adhere to the fingers of the
boat-men, or of those who have the handling of them on shore, will
follow, and there will be no want of attention to immediate
accommodation.
The tavern-keeper, under the plausible pretext of aiding towards the
completion of the youth’s wishes, never fails to enquire whether the
gentleman has any friends in town? or even in the country? If
affirmatively answered, ‘mine host’ feels himself tolerably secure of
his money: but will probably assert, that the friend in town is out of
the way, and will not be back for some days: should the gentleman be
totally destitute of friends, then comes the rich harvest. Imposition
following imposition, swell the bill; which, if appearances warrant
forbearance, is kept back as long as possible, under the pleasing
assurance of perfect confidence: but, in the end, a catalogue of items
is produced, which never fails to alarm, if not to ruin, the
unsuspecting victim!
If, unhappily, the guest should so far lower himself as to associate
with the ordinary company of the common drinking-room, he is
irretrievably gone. Quarrels, riots, and inebriety, must follow; in all
probability rendering him subject to the notice of the police. Should
his face ever be seen at that office, it would be next to impossible
that he should be admitted into any respectable circle. What with
lodging, dinners, wines, &c. of the worst description, but all rated at
the highest prices, he must be a fortunate wight who escapes under a
gold mohur (_i.e._ two guineas) per day: in general, double that sum is
charged; so that a person starts at the rate of £1000. per annum, at
least; while, in all probability no established, or even apparent,
provision exists, whereby he may be maintained.
If we add the allurements held out by the sable beauties, who will
contrive means to retail their charms so long as they think money is to
be had, we shall find no trifling expence incurred. This latter part of
the ceremony is usually performed by some fellow who can speak English,
and thoroughly understands whatever relates to the interest of the
concern; which, among other things, includes thieving, lying, cheating,
pimping, &c. This first essay is ordinarily made by describing the
elegance of the native women, and their great perfection as singers, and
dancers; and rarely fails, especially with youths under such
circumstances, to excite something more than curiosity. The
dancing-girls are introduced, and consequences follow, over which I
shall draw the veil; simply observing, that nothing can be more
dangerous than this irregular indulgence; it never failing, first to
drain the purse, and, in a few days, or weeks, the constitution also.
Those servants who usually ply at the wharfs, and endeavor to obtain
employment, either among the officers of ships, or among persons fresh
from Europe, for the most part speak broken English with sufficient
fluency: this renders them particularly serviceable to both those
classes, by enabling them to provide, and to act, when, without such
assistance, they would be in distress, and at a stand. It is a very
general custom among the Mussulmans of low condition, to give such of
their male children as are born during their Lent, (or _Ramzaun_,) the
name of _Ramzauny_: meaning ‘born during the _Ramzaun_.’ There being so
many thus designated, renders the name extremely common; and, as an
infinity of rogueries have been practised by persons so called, it has
rather got into disgrace. Hence, the adventurers above described are, by
a slight, but ludicrous corruption, termed _Rum-Johnnies_.
That a servant thus enabled to act as the medium of intercourse, must
prove on many occasions highly convenient, may be confessed; but, like a
double-edged sword, he may operate either way, as to himself may appear
expedient; and while pretending to serve, may be pillaging his employer.
It is to be lamented, that the stranger has no immediate resource; and,
in case of injury, little redress. The mischief is not owing to any
deficiency in the police, but arises from that invariable precaution
with which _Rum-Johnnies_ carry on their manœuvres: they never fail to
have a third person in the way, who is to disappear with the purloined
articles, and to bear all the blame; while the principal affects great
resentment at the villain’s audacity, and sorrow for master’s loss. This
is often so dexterously managed as to occasion serious quarrels, when
friends, who see through the deception, endeavor to convince the
infatuated party, that his confidential menial is at the bottom of the
roguery. The disreputable circumstance of having a thief at his elbow,
does not sit very easy on the stranger’s mind: deriving so much
convenience from _Rum-Johnny’s_ aid, and, having only the fair side of
the knave’s conduct in view, he is unwilling to give credit to what
appears a gross misrepresentation, founded on prejudice. By this means,
he sinks deeper into the mire, and renders it dangerous for his
well-wisher to attempt his extrication.
I recollect an instance of a young gentleman’s joining a regiment, about
a hundred miles up the country, who had among his servants a
_khedmutgar_, (or table-attendant,) of whom I never could get a sight.
The fellow was always sick, or busy; or some excuse was invariably made.
At length, one of my own domestics informed me, that he was a
_Rum-Johnny_ who had been discharged from my service, in which he held
the office of _mosaulchy_, (or link-boy,) for theft. I found out, that
he had been employed in the barracks at Fort-William, where he picked up
a little English, and had fastened upon the gentleman, no doubt with the
intention to avail himself of the first good prize wherewith to decamp.
Finding, to his great discomfiture, that I had been removed to that
station, where he found me, the scoundrel kept aloof, under the hope of
carrying his project into execution. Strange to say, it was with extreme
difficulty I could convince my young friend that he was the dupe of a
downright thief; who, if I had not been improperly lenient, would have
had the certificate of his crime noted on his back, by the drummers of
the regiment!