buffalo-beef, which might safely be classed with carrion, some tolerable
fowls, with, eventually, a few ducks and geese, yams, biringals,
capsicums, and other vegetable productions. Fish abound in the Roads,
yet are rather scarce, and are very rarely brought on board: this is in
a measure owing to the greater number of fishermen being private
servants, who are obliged to supply their masters first. It is said,
that the water-serpents, which abound in the Roads, and may be seen, in
beautiful varieties, to rise, at all hours to the surface, destroy great
quantities of the smaller kinds: this I can easily suppose to be true;
but, having occasionally seen the catamarans returning from the offing,
with immense loads of the best sorts, it would be difficult to convince
me, that the scarcity of fish in the market, and on board the ships in
the Roads, does not proceed from either the want of industry, or of
regulation.
Few people, taking all things into consideration, are more hospitable
than the Europeans residing at Madras: where deficiency in that respect
is supposed to exist, we may, by due consideration of peculiar
circumstances, relating to the person, or to the place, always find some
sufficient apology. Being so much frequented, and the number of European
gentlemen resident on the spot being comparatively trifling, it cannot
be expected they should keep open house, or indulge their friendly
dispositions in the exercise of unlimited kindness. In fact, the
expectations of those who visit Madras, on their way from Europe to
India, are, for the chief part, rather too sanguine: they have heard
much of Indian hospitality, and wonder at that disappointment which is
purely the offspring of their own unreasonable anticipations. I know not
of any situation where a letter of introduction is of more avail, or
indeed more necessary, than this: but such letter should be addressed to
some person resident at Madras; else it may be perfectly nugatory, in
consequence of the immense expanse over which the civil servants, as
well as the military, are scattered. A young gentleman taking out a
dozen letters, may, on his arrival, find them entirely useless, in
consequence of the parties being absent from the presidency.
The passengers of every class are expected to reside on shore during the
ship’s detention in the Roads. Few, indeed, neglect to avail themselves
of the opportunity offered of seeing one of our principal fortresses,
and of observing the customs of a country so celebrated in history, and
forming so essential a branch of the British Empire. If an introduction
is obtained, by any means, the usual result will be an invitation to
reside with the gentleman if he keeps house; otherwise, every attention
will be paid in seeing the stranger accommodated, at the best house of
that description which admits boarders; and which are commonly called
‘Punch-Houses.’ This designation doubtless arose from the habits of
those who first settled in India, and who, finding spirits, sugar, and
limes, (a small species of lemon,) every where abundant, indulged in
copious draughts of punch. That beverage is now completely obsolete,
unless among sea-faring persons, who rarely fail to experience its
deleterious effects. In all sea-ports, taverns, or punch-houses, are
more frequented than in places where shipping lie in some distant road,
or harbour. This occasions them to be more respectable in the opinions
of those who keep them, but nothing could reconcile a gentleman, long
resident in the country, to seek an accommodation among them: it would
imply a total want of respectable connexions: and, in itself, appear
sufficient cause for avoiding his acquaintance: so different are the
customs of different places!
Totally ignorant of the language, and without any guide, it is not to be
wondered that so many impositions are practised on our countrymen on
their arrival in India. A debash of the lowest order, and of the most
crafty disposition, perfectly experienced in all the ordinary
requisitions of Europeans, and prompt to gratify their desires so long
as profit attends the speculation, is ever at the elbow of the novice,
serving as banker, purveyor, pimp, and interpreter. What more can be
requisite to ruin an helpless, inconsiderate youth?
Most of the gentlemen in the Company’s service reside in the fort, or at
houses a few miles off, in the country, or at St. Thomas’s Mount, about
six miles from Madras, where the Artillery are usually quartered,
together with the troops destined to defend the works in case of attack.
The incursions to which the Carnatic was formerly exposed, during the
times of Hyder, and of Tippoo, rendered it expedient to fortify the
Black-Town; which is very extensive, and contains the houses of many
highly respectable European merchants, chiefly British and Portugueze,
together with the entire property of the richer natives of rank and
consequence. I cannot say the Black-Town is an enviable site for
residence; but the situation, being subject to the land and sea breezes,
the latter of which are as refreshing as the former are debilitating,
reconcile the older inhabitants to many inconveniences, among which,
smoke is by no means the least obnoxious. The musquitoes are here
tolerably numerous, as are also rats of all sizes, cock-roaches, and
scorpions: the latter grow to an immense size, and are peculiarly
venomous. That most loathsome companion, the bug, is to be found here in
such swarms, that it is by no means uncommon to see them crawling about
at all hours, and in all places.
St. Thomas’s Mount is certainly the more pleasant station and may be
fairly put in competition with any of those rural retreats, called
‘Garden-Houses,’ scattered every where in the vicinity of the capital:
at these, many families reside all the year round; the gentlemen who
have offices to attend, being conveyed thereto in the mornings, either
in palanquins, or in their carriages; the climate by no means favoring
much exercise on horse-back.
Except at that season when the flag-staff is struck, Madras Roads are,
in general, much resorted to by shipping. Being the seat of government
on the Coromandel coast, it necessarily has become the emporium of that
side of the peninsula. Most of the China ships touch there, and very few
of those proceeding to Bengal omit to call; especially when war either
prevails, or is expected to break out. It is much to be lamented, that
no means have yet been devised, nor, indeed, appear easily practicable,
of rendering the Roads safe against the attack of an enemy. The fort
certainly could repel any attempt to land within the reach of its
cannon; but there does not appear any possibility of preventing an
enterprising enemy from causing all the shipping, either to surrender,
or to run ashore. Perhaps hulks might be so stationed, as to become very
efficient in the defence of whatever shipping might remain beyond the
surfs. One or two old 64 gun ships properly prepared against boarding,
might, at all times, suffice, if moored with chains in proper
situations, under cover of the batteries.
It being indispensable that every person should be conversant with the
several coins, or currency, in which payments are made, or accounts
kept, I recommend to my readers to make themselves acquainted with the
tables of coins, weights, and measures, in use at Madras: observing,
that, throughout the dependant provinces, an endless variety in the two
last are to be found; and that, consequently, all dealings must be
regulated in proportion to the encreased, or diminished, variations,
wherever situated. The ‘EAST INDIA DIRECTORY’ will be found to contain
whatever may relate to this subject, including the three presidencies.
Conceiving, that, with few exceptions, the customs of many classes among
the natives of Bengal, assimilate greatly with those of the population
on the coast, I shall now pass on to the ordinary occurrences attendant
upon the arrival of a ship off the Sand-Heads, in the Bay of Balasore.
It has been already stated, that the voyage from Madras to Bengal will
depend, in regard to duration, entirely upon the season. If the
southerly monsoon prevails, Point Palmiras, which is at the southern
boundary of Balasore Roads, may be made in from three to seven days:
during the northerly monsoon, it is usual, experience having confirmed
what accident probably first suggested, to stretch over to the opposite
side of the bay upon a wind, and then to run obliquely across on the
other tack, so as to arrive in soundings of the mouth of the Hooghly,
where the tides will speedily convey a vessel up to any place on the
river, notwithstanding the wind’s direction. During the passage, under
the former prevalence, the land is not, in general, seen until the water
becomes obviously discolored with sand. In the first instance, the
course is made directly from Madras Roads, to gain a good offing,
whereby the dangerous shoals of Pulicat, about five miles north of
Madras, may be avoided: the land all along the coast being invariably
low, and the shallows projecting, in some places, full ten miles
seaward, it is prudent to keep rather towards the middle of the bay,
and, from a N.N.E. course, to change latterly to a N.N.W; rounding in,
when the latitude directs, until Point Palmiras may be from four to six
leagues distant.
It is of infinite importance to be correct in making that point, which
is best regulated by a perfect knowledge of the latitude, there being a
promontory very similar thereto, thence designated ‘False Point’; by
mistaking which many vessels have been lost. When in sight of Point
Palmiras, it is usual to await the arrival of some pilot-vessel, of
which one or more are always on the look-out below the Sand-Heads, and
to proceed into the river under her guidance. The capture of several of
those vessels having occurred within these few years, in consequence of
French privateers anchoring, as though in want of pilots, thus taking
advantage, in the most infamous and unprincipled manner, of an
institution, that ought ever to be held sacred, has given occasion for
many precautions, which must inevitably be attended with inconvenience,
and even danger, on particular occasions. In lieu of proceeding boldly
towards vessels anchored at the usual _ne plus ultra_, the pilots now
draw off towards the channels, allowing the ships to follow at some
distance, and refraining from sending a boat on board, until, by their
knowledge of the soundings, the schooners may be placed out of danger.
If all should prove right, which is soon ascertained by the signals made
by the mate sent on board the ship to be piloted, the schooners may then
proceed with confidence; but if any suspicion should remain, an alarm
would instantly be given; and, if possible, the enemy be decoyed among
those dreadful shoals, where, being once entangled, he must fall an easy
prey to such force as might be sent against him.
There are various channels by which a ship may proceed to the harbour of
Kedgeree, situated many miles up the river, but those most frequented,
especially by such as import, are the middle, and left channels, which
have, however, barely three fathoms and a half at low water;
consequently, ships of burthen are commonly brought to anchor, in such
positions as may allow their taking advantage of the best part of the
tide for passing the shallows: nevertheless, the sand is ploughed up, by
the action of a ship’s passage over them, in such manner as would lead
one, at first sight, to conclude she were touching the ground, when
perhaps her keel is many feet above it. During daylight, the
pilot-schooner makes few signals, but, after night-fall, on every heave
of the lead, she communicates, by means of _maroons_, (which are
flambeaux of an immense size, alternately exhibited and concealed in a
large tub,) the exact soundings in which she is proceeding. No greater
care can possibly be taken, than in the Company’s pilot-service, to
conduct ships in safety: exclusive of character, there is much at stake;
for no pilot who loses one of the Company’s ships, is retained on the
list: he is, _ipso facto_, dismissed. This regulation, which, no doubt,
may, in a few cases, press hard on very meritorious individuals, must be
considered one of the most important props of the institution, among
persons who may have habitually indulged in the use of spirituous
liquors to a dangerous excess. I knew some of the pilots who were
perfectly sensible of their failings, and could not be induced, either
by temptation, or entreaty, to taste of any beverage stronger than water
or country-beer, until they had seen their charges moored in safety.
That being done—good bye to forbearance!
It is not a little wonderful, that men who have the power to overrule a
dangerous propensity, merely when their professional characters are at
stake, should at every other moment throw aside that curb, which, if
duly maintained, would preserve their health, and render them far more
acceptable members of society!
The country all along the sea-coast, on both sides of the river’s mouth,
being extremely low, and there being no hills of sufficient altitude to
be distinguished at sea, especially on the right bank, very little
gratification is offered to the eye by the surrounding scenery. The
shelving beach, on either hand, is overgrown, in most parts, with trees
rarely exceeding twenty feet in height, whose stems are surrounded with
under-wood, or grass jungle, in which abundance of deer are to be found.
The pursuit of sport must, however, be invariably desisted from, on
account of the immense numbers of tigers which occupy the same covers.
It rarely happens that a party land for the purpose of shooting deer, or
wild hogs, (which are equally abundant,) without meeting with some
accident; or, at least, being frightened so as to produce the most
salutary forbearance. About twenty-five years ago, a son of the late Sir
Hector Monro was carried off by a tiger from among his comrades, who had
seated themselves round a large fire, made to obviate the apprehended
danger, while they awaited the arrival of a boat that was to convey them
back to their ship.
All the way, from Balasore up to Kedgeree, the prospect, if we except
those agreeable sensations arising from the display of vegetation, and
from arriving at the ultimate thule of destination, rather wearies than
pleases: nothing is to be seen but a series of wilderness, perhaps here
and there enclosing a few huts, or, in the broken intervals, displaying
some insignificant village, of which the inhabitants are as poor as they
are idle. No public edifice; no gay villas; no busy hum of men; no
crowded wharfs! In fact, I scarcely know a spot more dreary than the
debouché of the Hooghly, for at least thirty miles; or until arrival at
Diamond Harbour.
It is usual for the pilot-schooner to return to the Roads, in search of
other importations, unless her tour may be over; in which instance, she
proceeds up to Calcutta; leaving a person on board, lest the vessel
should drag her anchors, and to prevent her getting into foul ground.
The purser, for the most part, avails himself of the attendance of the
_chokey-boats_, which are always plying about the mouth of the rivers
for the express purpose of receiving packets. In favorable seasons,
these boats have been known to reach Calcutta, distant full sixty miles,
in one tide. If a schooner should be proceeding up the river, there
should be no hesitation in embarking in her: no equal accommodation can,
in general, be had: the whole risk, trouble, and delay, attendant upon
making a passage in any of the common country boats, are at once
annihilated. The pilot may possibly expect some return for his good
offices; but, if he likes his company, will, in all probability, set
them ashore at Calcutta free of all expence.
I should not envy the purser his trip in a chokey-boat, with no other
than a very small semi-circular covering of mats, under which it is
impossible to sit upright, except exactly under its centre. In
tempestuous seasons, and such are generally the periods in which the
Indiamen arrive, there is often a high swell between Kedgeree and Fulta,
the river being in some parts from three to six miles across, and
running to the southward, from which quarter the wind blows very
forcibly for five months at least. Therefore, although so very few
accidents happen, it cannot be considered as a safe voyage between the
ship and the capital. The chokey-boats are all under the
master-attendant, and bear the Company’s colors, on a small staff, or,
at times, at the head of the mast, made of a single bamboo, nearly as
long as the boat; which ordinarily rows ten or twelve oars. Being of a
light construction, and divested of all superfluous apparatus, the
chokey-boats proceed at a prodigious rate; and, on emergency, even when
opposed by the tide, can gain from two to six miles hourly; according as
they may be able to row along the slack water; to pole up against the
more rapid streams; or to track up, when both wind and tide are strongly
adverse.
When relatives, or particular friends, are on board any ship whose
arrival is expected, it is customary to send a stout pinnace-budgrow to
meet her at Kedgeree, there to receive the persons for whose
accommodation it was provided. When this act of kindness takes place,
all the necessary provision, a bed, table, chairs, &c. are put on board,
together with a proper number of servants of such description as are
generally needful on the water. Few who have any feeling for their
noviciate companions on board, especially those who have been in India,
quit the ship without taking with them as many as the pinnace can,
without distressing all, receive. This wind-fall does not happen every
day; though few ships return to India without conveying one or more old
standards, either civil or military: but it is not always that notice
can be received of a ship’s being about to import; and when such notice
has been received, it is not always thought of, or perhaps practicable,
to send a pinnace to receive an old friend.
Persons in a delicate state of health should, if possible, wait till
some safe and comfortable conveyance can be obtained. The most certain
mode is, to commission the purser to hire a vessel the moment he reaches
Calcutta, and to send her off under charge of some servant, who should
see that no delay were made by the boatmen; which, if paid by the day,
would inevitably follow. The misfortune is, that very few can endure to
be confined so much longer on board, and often impatiently reject such a
proposition: here we may expect to find that the greatest haste makes
the worst speed; at the same time that the expences are encreased
greatly, while the accommodations are deteriorated in exact ratio.
Now and then, an adventurous manjee, (or boat-master,) who knows how to
make a good bargain, will linger about Diamond Harbour, or lay up in
Culpee Creek, with the intent of going down, wind and tide permitting,
to the first ship which may arrive from Europe. Such men are certain of
a good fare, it being very common to give from fifty rupees (about six
guineas) to one hundred (about twelve guineas) for the trip. Such an
opportunity, however extravagant the terms may appear, ought not to be
lost; it being a great chance whether a second vessel of the same
description may proceed to the ship. As to small boats, rowing four or
six oars, and having either a thatched cabin, or a semi-circular awning
of mats, several of them may come along-side; but they will not be found
to yield the smallest accommodation beyond shelter from the sun; while
their manjees will not fail to take every advantage of whatever
distress, or difficulty, the passenger may labor under.
It would not be just to infer, from what I have said, respecting the
readiness with which the boatmen avail themselves of the necessities of
persons desirous to leave a ship, that they are particularly covetous,
or prone to imposition: we need only look at home, where we shall find
that no mercy is shewn to such unfortunate persons as become the prey of
our watermen, along the whole extent of our coast. See with what
hard-hearted, callous apathy, the boatman views the distress of the
unthinking youth, who, either by neglect, or by accident, remains on
shore after the boats that frequent his own ship, then under weigh, have
put off! What prayers, or arguments, short of those issuing from the
purse, can urge him to relieve the anxiety of him, whose whole hope,
whose only resource, lies in that voyage for which every preparation has
been made, and for which expences, often nearly ruinous to friends and
connections, have been defrayed! I speak not of those who are in a hurry
to quit their ships, before coming to an anchor; if they will have their
way, they must pay for such intemperate haste; it is an expence they
have the option of avoiding.
Really, when we come to a fair computation of the risks attendant upon
taking a vessel, built expressly for accommodation, and not intended to
meet the rude surges of, what may be called, an arm of the sea; that
from twelve to eighteen men are engaged; that much time is lost in
waiting arrivals; that full sixty miles are to be passed over; and that,
perhaps, four or five gentlemen, with all their luggage that may be at
hand, are conveyed; I say, when all this is considered, although we
certainly, from habit of having things cheaper in India, may deem even
the fifty rupees exorbitant, yet there appears far less reason to find
fault with the extortion of the Indian than there is to condemn the
cruel rapacity of the English boatman!
Whatever may be the rate at which the boat, supposing it to be a
pinnace-budgrow, is engaged, no apparatus of any description should be
expected; for none will be found. There will usually be an open veranda
in the front, having three or four steps to descend from the deck
thereto; it being on the same level with the front, or dining room. The
after-room narrows considerably towards the stern; and, on account of
the vessel’s form, its floor is usually raised one or two steps; this is
the sleeping apartment: at the stern is a small slip, serving for a
quarter-gallery: The roofs of these boats are usually flat; and some
have side-rails above to prevent luggage, or those who sleep there, from
falling overboard. The sides are furnished, for their whole length, with
Venetian blinds, in frames which lift up by means of hinges at their
tops; and a long curtain, made either of tarpaulin, or of painted, or of
white canvas, is nailed on the outside; letting down at pleasure, to
keep out wind, rain, dust, &c. The baling-place is ordinarily about the
centre of the front room; that being the deepest part of the boat’s
bottom. Baggage may be put under the deck; but that part is generally
occupied by the dandies, (or rowers,) if permitted to sleep there; or
perhaps the manjee may think it worth his while to make it a trading
voyage and lay in salt, rice, &c. to be disposed of to advantage on his
arrival at the presidency.