usually well stocked with every species of provision, and even import
their own fuel; according to existing regulations: were they to be
supplied with that article, or indeed with any other, to much extent,
the distress occasioned to the inhabitants would be deplorable. This
deficiency of fuel is occasioned, at present, by the number of wild
goats, every where secreting themselves among the crags; during the
night time they descend to the plantations, and to the fields, cropping
every thing within their reach. Until a war of extermination, as is now
proposed, be carried on against these destructive animals, it will be
useless to attempt planting, at least on such a scale as should prove
beneficial to the inhabitants. It may justly be supposed, that no weak
measures could produce so desirable a result; but it is reasonable to
conclude, that, if a party of soldiers were to be posted daily on those
superior points whence the goats could be seen and alarmed; and if a
number of half-bred greyhounds were to be kept to run them down, much
might be done in the course of a few years; especially if a reward were
given for every goat destroyed, by whatever means.
Yams and potatoes are cultivated in tolerable quantities on various
parts of the island; but the former will not grow except in very choice
situations, such as vallies through which streams flow. In Major Smyth’s
grounds, an immense variety of our esculents were to be seen, growing
luxuriantly: I recollect his pointing out to me a peculiarity regarding
the leek, and the onion, in both which he had been frequently
disappointed, after planting them to stand for seed. As an experiment
which did not promise success, he sowed the little seed vessels which
form the globular head of the stems; and found, that, by so doing, he
could insure a regular, and very rapid succession. He cut off the heads,
and separated the capsules, when they were in their green state, but
rather inclining to maturity.
Having undoubted proof of the readiness with which many plants,
indigenous to the cold, as well as to the hot, regions, may be
naturalized at St. Helena, it must excite some surprise to be informed,
that no public measures have yet been taken to stock the island with a
variety of quick-growing and useful trees; which, being collected on
favorable spots, might serve as the depôt for future supplies. The
various species of palms thrive amazingly, as does the peepul; of which,
for a long time, there was only one in the island, and no person could
tell whence it came!
It seems curious, that peaches should thrive so luxuriantly, and acquire
such an admirable flavor, notwithstanding the dryness of the atmosphere:
formerly, this fruit was in such abundance, that large quantities used
to be given to the hogs. Unhappily, an insect, only to be distinguished
by the aid of glasses, was imported with some slips from the Constantia
vines: these attacked the peach trees, devouring their bark, and
destroying at least nine-tenths of their number. It is said, that every
means have been tried to annihilate these minute plunderers, or to deter
them from their wonted attacks, but without effect. I recollect, that,
about twenty years ago, a premium was given by some association,
(probably the society for the encouragement of arts,) to a person who
discovered a means of ridding trees from this description of clustering
insects. It was very simple; and was effected by boring holes with a
gimlet, obliquely downwards, into the body of the trunk, near the
ground, and filling them with quicksilver; after which the holes were
closed by means of pitch, or plugs of wood. As possibly this has never
been essayed at St. Helena, I give it a place under the hope of its
proving useful: it is, however, said to render evergreens deciduous.
The teak, and poon trees, both of which are of important service in
naval architecture, might certainly be raised to great size in St.
Helena. The burghut, or banian tree, might also thrive; but I should
except against it as requiring too much nourishment, and exhausting the
soil, without being any wise useful as timber. The tamarind tree, though
it supplies a large proportion of fruit, has this objection against it,
that it is peculiarly unfriendly to all others in its vicinity: no grass
will grow under it; and persons who sleep beneath its shelter, or within
its influence, are subjected to fevers: its timber is substantial, being
hard and heavy, but by no means strong, on account of its tendency to
rive, and to start into fissures; especially at those knots whence
boughs have been thrown out. The bamboo may be cultivated to very great
advantage: it grows, throughout India, on the most elevated situations,
and on spots where scarcely a handful of soil is to be found in the
vicinity of its roots. The value of this reed, (for it is nothing more,
though it reaches to the height of seventy feet, and frequently measures
from five to six inches in diameter,) would be incalculable, were it
applied merely to making fences; which, in such a climate, would be very
durable. An invaluable acquisition would be obtained from its more
general culture, especially as it is of very quick growth. But the most
important advantages would certainly attend the formation of vine-yards,
in such parts as might, by their aspect and soil, be best suited to the
purpose. The temperature of the climate is highly favorable, the
thermometer averaging, during the summer season, from 76° to 79° and
80°, and rarely falling below 54°. That great enemy to grapes, rain, is
not much to be dreaded; though it cannot be doubted, that in proportion
as vegetation should be increased by assiduous planting, and by
preserving due supplies of water for the upper levels, more dew and more
rain would fall: however, not to such excess as to ruin the vine-yards.
Coffee has been found to thrive here; but I much doubt whether it would
be an object to cultivate that which is so abundant throughout the West
Indies, and which can be so amply supplied from countries, whence it
comes as a return for our own manufactures.
The great, at least the primary, object should be to add to the
resources of the present inhabitants, and gradually to effect such an
excess of provision, of their own raising, as should allow of liberal
assistance being given to such ships as might touch at the island;
especially to vessels from the South Seas, whither numbers of our
whalers now resort, and to such as might, either intentionally, or
accidentally, miss the Cape. This may certainly be effected, by active
perseverance in a well arranged plan; the difficulties are really few,
and the means, of remedy certainly within our power. After maturely
weighing the _pros_ and _cons_, no doubt remains in my mind, that, in
the course of fifteen or twenty years, St. Helena would not only cease
to be a burthen on the parent state; but that it must be able to afford
a large portion of its produce to the accommodation of all shipping
visiting its roads.
This island cannot boast of a harbour; nor are its Roads so extensive as
to admit a very numerous fleet, owing to the small extent of the bank on
which ships cast anchor; generally in from six to fifteen fathoms. After
the latter depth, the bank falls off so suddenly as to become
unfathomable, within a few hundred yards, rendering it necessary to lay
in, as close as the surf admits, probably about two cable’s length from
the beach. But it is not very easy to get so near in the first instance,
on account of a strong current that sets to the north, and the necessity
for being close hauled to meet the wind which comes down James’s Valley.
It is best to anchor any where about twelve fathoms, and, when the wind
lulls, to warp into a better berth.
There is but one landing place, which lies to the left of a shallow
inflexion, forming a small bay opposite the sea-line; built nearly on a
level with the water, and mounting a very heavy battery, properly
equipped for heating shot, and always kept in readiness for service. Not
that it would be possible for an enemy to surprize the island, unless
the most shameful inattention might prevail in every quarter. All
vessels must approach on the south-east; where there are guards, and
telegraphs, whereby notice is given full four hours before the
northernmost point can be rounded. This, of course, alludes to the day;
but, so clear is the atmosphere in general, that even during the night a
ship would be discerned at many miles distance.
After passing the southernmost points, it is necessary to keep well in
with the shore, which is every where composed of immense masses of rock,
without any inlet, or means of disembarkation; even if the tremendous
surf should not impede. Here the coast is guarded, or rather watched, by
various detachments, stationed at commanding points; where strong
batteries are mounted, and the means of communicating intelligence, in
the most rapid manner, at hand.
The last battery to be passed, previous to casting anchor, is called
Munden’s, and stands immediately between the watering, or landing-place,
and a small bay, in which, it is recorded, that a landing was once
effected during the night: from my own observation, having often gone in
a boat to the edge of the surf at that part to fish, I should think it
by no means easy to get ashore in any manner, much more as an armed body
intending to capture the island. But, whatever may have been effected in
former times, that quarter seems now so well guarded as to leave no
cause for apprehension, of a surprize at least: nor does there appear
the smallest danger of a landing being effected at the watering place;
where a very small party might oppose the boats of a whole fleet. The
swell is here very great, rendering it a matter of some hazard when
jumping into, or out of, a boat; besides, only one boat can come to at a
time, in a position suitable to hostile purposes; and it is not to be
supposed, that the battery above, or that on the landing-place, or the
sea-line, or the works on Ladder Hill, would be silent upon such an
occasion. Certain destruction awaits every person who falls into the
water in this part; where the sharks are as numerous as they are
ravenous. The wall of the wharf is perpendicular, and built on a rock,
under which is a tremendous abyss.
The whole of the northern part is composed of rocks naturally scarped in
a rugged manner, so as rather to hang over, than to retire from the sea;
rising every where from 800 to 2000 feet, and more. Yet, wonderful as it
may seem, with such force does the surf break on this leeward side of
the island, that the spray, or mist, may be seen constantly ascending,
like clouds of smoke, nearly to the summits of the mountains. The
residue of the coast is equally bold, and inaccessible; except at a part
called Sandy Bay, to the southward. There the shore is nearly flat for
some distance, but is interspersed with rocks, and guarded by reefs of
breakers, which project some distance, and totally obviate the means of
attack. If, however, a landing were to be effected, the guns kept in
readiness, in masked batteries on the surrounding heights, would soon
defeat the enemy’s purpose.
On account of the difficulty of approach, the several ships take their
water in regular rotation, unless when a vessel is under despatch; in
which case her boats have the preference. The mode of receiving water is
certainly suited to the situation; but is very tedious. The butts being
carried in the long-boats to the edge of the wharf, are there filled by
means of leathern hoses, of which the ends severally attach to cocks on
the pipes that conduct the water to that part. With the upmost
assiduity, I should suppose that not more than forty or fifty butts
could be supplied to any one long-boat within the course of the day,
notwithstanding the shipping lies so close; but, by a regular succession
of boats, full 1000 butts might be received.
After landing, the way leads under a very high hill on the left, to the
sea gate; within which is a barrier that secures the flank of the
sea-line, and defends the road into the town; it is terminated by a
gate, where the main guard is posted.
The town is small, and by no means irregular; the houses very low,
generally consisting of two and three floors, in all which there are
abundance of windows, glazed with small panes, which, on the whole, are
not very sightly. The valley, in which James Town is situated, is very
narrow, and, in the hot season, extremely sultry. On the right is Ladder
Hill, where a very heavy battery is mounted, both of guns and mortars,
effectually commanding the road, and the valley, for a great distance.
This hill is so steep, that it is ascended only by means of traverses
cut out of its side, and enclosed with a parapet sufficient to prevent
accidents. The soil is, however, so replete with large loose stones, as
to occasion frequent mischiefs to the houses below; of which some have
been greatly damaged by the fall of rubbish from above. I imagine, that
the ascent, by the road, cannot measure less than a mile; and, that the
perpendicular height of Ladder Hill, above the level of the sea, must be
full 600 yards.
Major Rennell states the various eminences to be as follow.
Feet.
Cuckold’s Point 2672
Halley’s Mount 2467
Flag Staff 2272
The Barn 2015
(Over-hanging the sea.)
The Alarm House (centrically situated) l960
High Knoll (where the Citadel stands, above Ladder 1903
Hill)
Longwood House (residence of the Deputy Governor) 1762
This very elevated part, namely, Ladder Hill, is nevertheless commanded
by several small batteries, judiciously situated, which, in their turn,
are subject to the fire of the works at High Knoll, built under the
auspices of Colonel Brooke, and under the immediate direction of Major
Smyth. This little fortification seems to be the _dernier resort_ of the
garrison, of which it might hold about two hundred in the several
bomb-proofs. It has a small arsenal, reservoir, magazine, a well of
immense depth, cut through the rock with great difficulty, and,
exclusive of its outworks, which are peculiarly compact, has a central
block-house, mounting several pieces of heavy ordnance. The site of this
citadel is shewn to be full 1960 feet above the level of the sea: the
highest peak in the island is about 2700; but it is too remote to have
any effect on the citadel.
The force kept up at St. Helena is, nominally, a battalion of infantry,
and four companies of artillery; but I doubt whether, at any time, more
than 700 men could be mustered: that number is barely equal to the
defence of the several outposts, and to manning the sea-line, Ladder
Hill, and the citadel. It is, fortunately, a very healthy spot, and the
hospitals are rarely known to contain more than four men in the hundred.
The surrounding ocean supplies abundance of fish; Mr. Brooke describes
no less than seventy-six kinds, though few are much esteemed. From the
stern of a ship, mackarel, of a small size, together with gar-fish,
plaice, a kind of cod, and a very fine species of gurnet, may be caught.
The best bait for these is a piece of raw albacore. Chance supplied us
with a very excellent stock of craw-fish: under the idea of catching
some small sharks, we made a net of spun-yarn, and slung it to a
butt-hoop. A few bones of salt beef were tied within for a bait. This we
lowered down at night, and occasionally drew up very gently to the
surface, the depth being about ten or eleven fathoms. We caught no
sharks, but frequently found two or three very fine craw-fishes, of that
sort called stumps.
I will now proceed with the regular order of my design, and observe
that, if a ship is not to touch at the Cape outward bound, especially
when that port is in possession of an enemy, or that hostile cruisers
are known to infest the southern coast of Africa, it is not uncommon to
run down to the latitude of 38° or 40°, thereby to avoid those dangers,
and to get beyond the influence of the current, which sets to the
westward at the rate of full three miles per hour. Experience has
proved, that, by taking such a course, the voyage has been quicker than
when the land has been kept in sight. When the Cape is thus avoided, it
will probably be necessary to proceed by the inner passage to the island
of Johanna. This is supposed to be the best route that can be followed,
by such as are bound to Bombay; though the number of shoals, and of
rocks, scattered through the Mozambique Channel, which separates
Madagascar from the Main, subjects it to some disrepute. These are, in a
measure, counterbalanced during war time, by the danger attendant upon
an approach to the island of Mauritius; whence the French have always
fitted out a number of privateers, that have done inconceivable mischief
among our shipping in the Indian Seas.
A few vessels touch at St. Augustine’s Bay, on the west coast of
Madagascar; but the treacherous disposition of the natives is a great
objection, and causes the generality to pass on to Johanna, which is the
only island of the Comora cluster we have been in the habit of visiting.
The strong current setting round its southern extremity, occasions
vessels to keep close to the shore as they approach Saddle Island,
which, at low water, is connected with Johanna by a ridge of sand,
whereon the Huntingdon Indiaman was lost about forty years back, in
attempting to pass, without going round Saddle Island; which derives its
name from the appearance it bears, when viewed at a certain distance.
The whole coast, from the southern point to the bay where the town is
situated, presents, with very little exception, a bold shore, divested
of those dangerous reefs which render Mohillah, and others of its
neighbours, difficult of access. The country is extremely mountainous;
in some parts abounding with cocoa and other trees: wild goats are very
numerous; but, being much in request among the natives, are very shy,
and, in general, retire to the most rugged eminences. To the left of the
town, about two miles distant, a long reef of black rocks encloses a
bay, of which the beach is covered with a fine sand, shelving very
gradually, and bearing a strong resemblance to that of Weymouth.
The houses in the villages on the coast are rather mean, though
appertaining to persons who have ridiculously assumed European titles of
eminence. The island swarms with ‘Prince Ruperts,’ ‘Prince Eugenes,’
Dukes, Marquises, and Lords, all of whom are mean and knavish to an
extreme. The common form of building consists of a long barn-like
apartment, entered by a low door in middle of its length, and having
another opposite thereto at the back, which leads to the most dirty
out-offices that can be imagined; wherein the culinary operations, &c.
are carried on. In the dwellings of those who admit lodgers, which may
be said to include half the town, the places for sleeping, for I cannot
call them bed-places, are raised, towards the two gable-ends, to the
height of full six feet; and, in some, are parted off by a curtain of
coarse chintz, or other cloth. These recesses are from three to five
feet in width, and may be ten or twelve feet long; according to the
breadth of the house. The ascent to them is formed by several very broad
stairs, ordinarily covered with matting made of cocoa-tree leaves, or,
in a few, with carpets. Each step is considered as accommodation for two
persons to repose upon, feet to feet: in most instances, however, the
steps are not long enough to allow more than one person to lie down.
This theatrical arrangement is by no means displeasing, nor is it
attended with so much inconvenience as would be the case were the whole
upon a level. The middle of the room is set apart for meals, usually
served on tables of a wretched construction; the guests sitting, as well
as they can, upon little stools, or eventually reclining on the matted
floor against the lower steps; which, by the by, is not only the most
comfortable, but, among the natives, is considered to be the most
decorous, mode.
The inhabitants of this island, which lies in 12° south, and 45° east,
are chiefly descendants of some Arabs who settled here about two
centuries ago. Its name is, properly, _Hinzuan_, from which we have, by
a series of corruptions, contrived to affix the present designation.
Most of the inhabitants who are not of Arabian descent, are slaves,
purchased for a mere trifle at Madagascar and Mozambique, with which
places some intercourse is preserved; though the Johanna marine seems
but ill suited to crossing even that narrow sea, which separates it from
either Cape Ambro, or the opposite coast of Mozambique. The number of
vessels called war-boats, may amount to about twenty, each capable of
carrying two hundred men. These barks, which are entirely open, are
usually furnished with an immense number of paddles, and oars, which,
aided by a large square-sail, cause them to make good way through the
water. In such a temperate climate, where the wind always blows from the
south-west, and where, with the exception of those hurricanes peculiar,
to the higher latitudes, fair weather prevails during the whole year,
such a naval armament may prove adequate to the ordinary purposes of its
construction.
All warfare with any of the neighbouring islands, is supported by
voluntary contributions; each person of consequence taking with him
provisions, and arms, for his respective adherents, or slaves. The
revenues are collected from about two hundred villages; but the three
principal towns are exempted from any contribution beyond the fortieth
part of their moveable property; which all, of whatever degree, pay
annually to the Mufti, or head of their church.
The king resides at the large and populous village of Domoni, where his
whole train of artillery, consisting of a condemned six-pounder, is kept
in great state! The natives are, in some degree, conversant in the use
of small-arms; these, with cutlasses, spears of immense length, and bows
and arrows, (the latter chiefly pointed with fish-bone, or flint,)
compose their stock of military implements. Their coast being generally
so safe, little skill is required to bring a vessel into a safe berth;
but it is usual to take on board a pilot, who is known by the name of
‘Purser Jack.’ This copper-colored knave never fails to put off, so soon
as any vessel is seen on its way from Saddle Island, and to offer his
services, which are supposed to be well requited by a few dollars.
It is worthy of remark, that, on account of the rapidity of the current,
which sets off to sea round the black rocks, and would infallibly
prevent any vessel from reaching an anchorage, all ships pass to the
southern extremity, near Saddle Island, and proceed with a fair wind
along the coast. But it is not safe to carry too much sail while under
the shore; as violent gusts come down between the mountains, in the most
abrupt manner.
The population of Johanna must be rather considerable: perhaps it were
not too much to estimate it at ninety, or a hundred, thousands;
including all ranks and ages: the towns are large and extremely
populous. The Mahomedan religion prevails, though but very few sacred
edifices, worthy of notice, are to be found on the island; the principal
one, which does not seem to have cost any great sum, being a mosque,
built by Halimah, a queen from whom the present king is descended,
situated near the landing place, in the town of Matsamudo. Nevertheless
the priests are sufficiently numerous; and, as in most countries, enjoy
an excellent share of the earth’s produce.