kill numbers of the white species, which supply both spermaceti, and the
oil bearing that name. In False Bay, which includes a space equal to at
least two hundred square miles, black whales may often be seen sporting
about; as, indeed, they may, in Table Bay, close in among the rocks,
about half a mile below the fort. A few are killed by the crews of such
ships as have not been so fortunate as to fill with the former kind; but
it seems to be done almost as much for pastime as for profit; the oil
extracted from black whales being very low in price; it neither burning
well, nor making so good soap as the spermaceti kind.
Although the winter months are held to be very dangerous for vessels
riding in Table Bay, on account of the dreadful swell that sometimes
sets in from the north-west, towards which it is much exposed, it is,
however, rare that vessels are lost therein during that season; no
doubt, in consequence of their very short stay, and of their usually
proceeding to Seamon’s Bay, the inhabited part of which is about
twenty-five miles from Cape Town. The Sceptre, of 64 guns, together with
a Danish 74, and about ten or twelve other vessels, were wrecked in
Table Bay on the 5th of November, 1799; a period when a gale of wind
from the north-west is never expected. To make up for the deficiency,
that part of the year is attended with very stiff breezes from the
south-east, which drive up the small gravel against one’s face with such
force as to give very acute pain. These south-easters, as they are
called, certainly produce excellent effects; cooling the air, and
destroying an infinite number of insects.
Nature has been truly liberal in the profusion of flowers she has
scattered throughout this part of Africa: the plains are covered with
heaths, or hethers, of an exquisite fragrance, of boundless variety, and
of the most delicate coloring and formation. The whole country, where
the soil is not absolutely barren, teems with all that could enrich a
pleasure garden; among these, the wild geraniums bear a large
proportion: the plain beyond the camp at Wine-Burg absolutely resembling
a rich carpet!
The opposite side of Table Bay, as seen from Cape Town, offers nothing
pleasing to the eye; the coast appearing to be low, sandy, and barren,
rising gradually into a range of hills, displaying little arborage, or
verdure, which connect with those on the east side of False Bay, forming
a part of the district called Hottentot Holland; wherein are partially
interspersed small farms, that combine to supply Cape Town with
provision.
The back of the Table Mountain, so called from its top appearing
horizontal for several hundred yards, indeed, for near half a mile, is
rugged, and of a most dismal hue. When the wind blows from the westward,
the clouds come rolling down, perfectly concealing the mountain nearly
to what appears to be its base. In that, however, the spectator is
deceived; for a block-house erected on a part of the hill where the
signal port stands, called the Lion’s Rump, and which is also apparently
near the base, has been ascertained, by measurement, to equal the
highest part of Gibraltar in elevation above the sea. From this, as well
as from its being discernible at full thirty leagues distance, some idea
may be formed of the stupendous height of the Table Mountain.
It appears probable, that but for that regulation which disqualifies
persons who unnecessarily put into harbours deemed at certain periods
unsafe, from recovering their insurances in case of loss, few ships
would resort to False Bay. The distance, the badness of the road to Cape
Town, the difficulty of procuring supplies and stores, with various
other inconveniences, combine to give the preference to Table Bay,
notwithstanding the reputed hazard. At Cape Town abundance of
accommodation, of every description, may be had; whereas, at Seamon’s
Bay, there are not more than two or three houses where persons of
respectability could lodge. In saying this, I exempt the quarters
allotted to the officers, which are very comfortable. After all that can
be urged in favour of Seamon’s Bay, it is by no means a safe harbour; as
the bones of several vessels, deep buried in the sandy beach, at the
most retired part, which is a perfect _cul de sac_, sufficiently
corroborate. There are, besides, sunken rocks near its mouth, on which
several ships have struck: one, called the Anvil, from its flat surface,
caused the loss of the Colebrook, Indiaman, some years ago. Another,
designated the Bellows, from the perpetual roar it occasions, stands
about two miles from the southernmost point of the Cape: it is not so
dangerous as the others; being discernible full ten miles off, owing to
the immense surfs, arising from a strong current towards the westward,
which are perpetually breaking over it.
The Cape, considered as a colony, cannot be said, at present, to be
valuable in any respect, except as an asylum for shipping, homeward or
outward bound. The supplies requisite for the town are derived from the
labors of a few boors, settled at some distance. Hence, provisions are
by no means cheap; nor would they be so, even if the demands of St.
Helena could be answered from any other quarter; since the indolence of
the Dutch agriculturists would, it is to be feared, cause them to limit
their operations in proportion as the consumption might decrease. It is,
doubtless, owing to some such cause, that the greater part of the slaves
are maintained upon a very black, heavy kind of bread, on which the fat
of sheeps’ tails is smeared, as a substitute for butter; and that the
lower classes of the population live in the most wretched manner. This
should seem inexcusable, where thousands of acres of good soil lie
unheeded, within such a moderate distance of the town as could scarcely
fail to repay the ordinary expences of cultivation.
Although neither coal, nor peat, is found at the Cape, and the colony is
dependant entirely on the arborage of the vicinity for fuel, it is very
remarkable that little, or rather no, pains are taken to insure a
supply. If we except a few plantations, made purely for ornament, at the
several garden-houses within six or seven miles of Cape Town, we may in
vain search for any symptoms of foresight in respect to the future
supply of so indispensable an article. I recollect stating this to a
gentleman, who seemed to be, in other respects, well informed of Cape
affairs; but he silenced me with a remark which appeared unanswerable;
taking for granted it was true. He said, ‘We have endeavored, ever since
taking possession of the colony, to induce the Dutch to plant, and to
till, the adjacent lands; but in vain: they prefer a scarcity, or at
least a pretended one, on all occasions; because they think it
distresses us, while, at the same time, they have an excellent plea for
extorting the highest prices. Possessed of his waggon, and team, Mynheer
can always supply his own wants at a certain rate; but if more is
brought than is required for his own use, the surplus is spared to us
for a sum which covers the whole expence: therefore, the dearer the
article, the better for the waggon-master!’
I am free to confess, that where such hauteur, indolence, and extortion
prevail, and that, too, very extensively and actively, against a
protecting power, (for we really do not appear as conquerors in that
quarter,) I should not hesitate to adopt such measures as might fully
meet the exigency. If, in so doing, I should wound the feelings, or
partially injure the rights, of the inhabitants, my argument would be
brief, viz. ‘You created a necessity, and necessity has no law.’ Though,
here and there, something resembling an European vehicle may be seen,
the general instrument of conveyance, whether of families travelling, or
taking the air, is a waggon, usually drawn by eight small, but fiery
horses. One Hottentot commonly holds the reins of the pair next the
wheels, while another, with an immense whip, not less in the whole than
thirty feet long, manages the team with wondrous dexterity. In these
waggons are commonly three benches, slung crosswise, on leather straps;
each bench holding two persons. They are likewise provided with painted
canvas tilts, made to take off at pleasure. The motion of such a waggon,
while going over the rough part between the two capes, is ‘_most
horrible!_’
The lumber-waggons are made in the rudest manner, generally with large
truck wheels; some are boarded, or even thatched, above, and absolutely
look like moving houses. Whether owing to the awkwardness of their
construction, or to the badness of the roads, or to that incorrigible
thing called custom, may not be easy to decide; though, possibly, their
joint operation may be reasonably considered the cause; it is certainly
true, that, even with six or eight pairs of rather stout, but
high-boned, oxen, such a waggon rarely travels more than twelve or
fifteen miles within the day. Nor is the plough a whit better managed.
This stupendous machine, which appears calculated to turn up whole
mountains in its progress, rarely gets through more than two roods
daily, though drawn by six oxen, all in a line, and aided by three men;
one of whom holds the plough stilt, (there being but one,) another
drives with the usual enormous whip, and the third guides the leading
ox.
The operation of thrashing is commonly performed in the open air, within
an enclosed circle, about twenty yards in diameter, surrounded by a
stone, or mud wall, about four feet high: the floor is made of clay and
lime, rammed very hard. The sheaves being scattered within the circle,
the farmer’s horses are turned in, and driven about by a slave, who,
being provided with a whip, stands in the centre, and chases the cattle
about; while two, or more, of his associates in bondage, stir the
sheaves with forked sticks, in order that every part may be equally
trodden by the galloping steeds. The winnowing is done in the same area;
the horses being sent into another circle, to repeat their labors, while
several men, first removing the straw, sweep the thrashings towards the
windward side, and there toss it up, that the wind, which is commonly
rather forcible, may blow the chaff to the lee side, while the corn
falls nearly centrical; of course, as the latter goes with little
further preparation to the mill, the flour may be supposed to contain no
small portion of grit. The quantity of grain bruised, and left in the
straw, must be considerable.
Few ships remain long enough to allow of passengers proceeding to the
interior; where, however, they would find much to admire. At some of the
farms they may be well accommodated, with the great advantage of finding
their purses far less burthensome on their return! The famous vineyards
of Stellenbosch are well worth seeing, as is the Salt Lake, which
annually dries, leaving a bed of muriate of soda many miles in diameter,
and of unknown depth! Surely, in parts accounted sterile, such a depôt
of manure ought not to be overlooked. The hot baths, situate in a most
romantic valley about forty miles from the Cape, demand the traveller’s
attention. Whether he may proceed on horseback, (as I should recommend,)
or in a waggon, a gun will be useful; both on account of the prodigious
quantity of game, of every description, and as a defence against the
numerous wild beasts which infest all the woody country beyond Hottentot
Holland.
I have been induced to enter upon the foregoing details regarding the
Cape, from the consideration of its being intimately attached to our
Asiatic possessions; and because so large a portion of those who visit
them, touch there; either in going to, or when returning from, India.
The political importance of a point so advantageously situated, and
having such an expanse of territory annexed, may, perhaps, at some
convenient moment, become a subject for future discussion: in the mean
while, as connected with the Cape, I shall treat of St. Helena.
This island is most singularly situated, being in the 16th degree of
south latitude, and separated from the two continents of Africa and
America by immense seas, in every part unfathomable: from the former it
is about 1200 miles distant; from the latter about 1800. According to an
analytic description, published in 1805, it appears tolerably certain,
that Saint Helena owes its elevation above the sea to some great
convulsion of nature; probably to, an earthquake: for it does not, like
its neighbour Ascension, shew much remains of volcanic matter, neither
does there appear any cavity at all resembling a crater. On the
contrary, the whole island is composed of immense strata of rock,
chiefly basaltic, which, from the variety of directions they assume,
some declining one way, some another, while a few assume nearly a
perpendicular tendency, may be supposed to have been disrupted, and
ejected from the great sub-marine mass, by some tremendous earthquake.
It would be difficult to form the least idea of the period when that
event took place; nor, indeed, can it be altogether certified that this
island was not coœval with the creation; since which it may have
undergone various changes, from volcanic operations within the deep: the
appearance of cinders without lava, and the regular intermixture of
clay, especially of puzolana, with the rock, by such a gradual
intercourse as to leave it undetermined where the one begins, and the
other ceases, may be considered a _lusus naturæ_, and certainly tends to
involve the origin of this now valuable island still more among the
arcana of nature.
Situated in the heart of the trade winds, and covering so small a space,
the whole island giving a girth of less than twenty-eight miles, it is
not to be expected that much rain should fall upon it: such is the
incertitude regarding a supply of water, that for three years in
succession scarce a shower fell! This severe drought proved fatal to a
very large quantity of cattle, which had, during the course of many
preceding seasons, been raised by the industrious efforts of the
inhabitants. Such were the chagrin, and the disappointment, felt on the
occasion, that few have, since that period, turned their attention to
the rearing of live stock in any quantity.
Water would never be wanting, if proper means were taken for its
preservation; as almost every valley has a copious spring, the produce
of which might be retained in tanks lined with the clay every where
abounding. These tanks should be situated as near as possible to the
spring heads; being dug in the form of a cone resting on its base, so as
to leave but little surface for evaporation. By this means they might be
kept in a continual state of overflow, from the upper tank or cone, to
others below the level of its surface, at such distances as should be
judged proper. The source of the spring supplying the stream that flows
through James’s Valley, whence the shipping receive their water, cannot
be less than six hundred feet above the level of the sea; therefore,
admitting that a succession of tanks were to be made at such places as
might be best suited to the retention of water, and to the supply of
cattle, &c. it follows, that any quantity, beyond the actual
consumption, might be upheld for times of scarcity.
It cannot fail to astonish my readers, that no means whatever have been
taken to prevent even the stream above alluded to from being lost, when
they are informed that it is computed, indeed, has been known to supply
no less than two thousand tons in three days; and could have furnished a
much greater quantity, had it been practicable to bring more boats, at
the same moment, near enough to the wharf-cocks, to have the hoses laid
into their respective casks. I have heard, that a computation of the
spring was made, whence it was shewn to be equal to that conduit which
supplies Liverpool. Now, the whole population of St. Helena are supposed
to be rather under, than over, 3000; which, compared with Liverpool, at
once displays the possibility of guarding against drought; though the
lands should be stocked to their utmost with cattle. This, of itself, is
sufficient reason for the adoption of some plan for preventing the
escape of the surplus fluid; which ought to be retained as high up as
possible; but when we consider, that, under such an improvement,
agriculture would thrive in situations now deemed untenable by any
farmer, merely from a want of water, there ought to be no hesitation in
resorting to the proper means for securing a due supply throughout the
island.
We should, at the same time, advert to the regular operations of nature,
which ever conform to the changes produced, either by time or by art.
The naturalist well knows, that in all well wooded islands, however
distant from continents, the dews are remarkably heavy, and encourage
vegetation to its utmost luxuriance: if, then, the soil could again be
covered with arborage, (for, when first discovered, about three hundred
years ago, the very summits of the hills were amply clothed with trees,
of which some were peculiar to the island,) it is obvious, that, even
without the aid of irrigation, an abundance of perpetual pasturage might
be found. In that case, every acre might have its inhabitant; whereas,
at this day, computing the whole area to measure, according to a very
accurate survey, about 30,300 acres, and the population to be 3000; it
should seem evident, that, although there is not more than one
inhabitant to every ten acres, at least four-fifths of their provision
are drawn from other countries.
The author of the ‘Description of St. Helena,’ quotes some anecdotes
which shew the narrow views of those persons who have never quitted the
island. In one instance, ‘a top-mast, or other spar, is reserved as a
great acquisition, to be sold at an immense profit to some vessel in
distress:’ in another, the author states his having been asked, ‘if the
arrival of the India fleet did not make London very gay!’
In these, we certainly recognise the language of insulated ignorance;
but when the author makes a jest of that exclamation of a native, who,
in walking with him over a spot luxuriantly verdant, declared, that ‘if
the whole island were like that part, it would be the richest spot in
the world;’ the joke does not fit. I am well aware of the hyperbole of
such an enthusiastic expression; but, from what appeared at the
Government House, where, under the fostering care of Colonel Brooke, the
late governor, wonderful improvements had been affected, especially in
the culture of exotics; and having witnessed the great perfection to
which vegetables had been raised, on a farm in the occupation of the
late Major Edward Smyth, of the artillery; as well as the plantations
upheld, under most inauspicious circumstances, by the late Deputy
Governor Lieutenant-Colonel Robson: I feel no hesitation in avowing an
opinion, that the now dreary, bleak, uncouth summits of St. Helena,
might become both ornamental and useful; while the lower parts should
teem with corn, wine, and oil.
In a climate where no hurricanes destroy the crops, where the medium
temperature is about 54°, where health and longevity seem to hold their
court, and where there exist the greatest essentials towards culture,
(viz. clay, lime-stone, sand, and manure, in the greatest abundance,) I
really cannot see why this now neglected, and comparatively desolate,
island, should not become a perfect paradise! That health should be a
common blessing among the natives, does not appear wonderful; because
they have not the means of excess, at least not in drinking; for wine,
and spirits, are most exorbitantly dear. I happened to be at Governor
Brooke’s on New Year’s Day, 1800, when intelligence was brought that the
whole of the troops were plunged into the deepest affliction, by the
loss of a cask of rum, served from the stores as the usual basis of
annual festivity: in rolling up towards the barracks, the cask had
burst, and spilled every drop of its precious contents. This, in any
other situation, would not have given a moment’s uneasiness; the
deficiency might have been easily made up: but, at St. Helena, where the
most sparing economy, in regard to all articles of subsistence, is
indispensably necessary, and where no private suttlers could fill up the
blank, it was really a most uncomfortable circumstance!
It cannot be expected, after the above detail, that provision should be
cheap, or abundant: so far the reverse, that persons of all ranks daily
receive their rations from the stores, as indispensable towards their
existence. Hence, sheep, poultry, flour, &c. are rarely procurable, in
any quantity, for the supply of the homeward-bound shipping; which,
being sometimes detained for months, waiting for convoy, occasions their
passengers to be put to considerable expence, without deriving
proportionate comfort; valetudinarians being the only strangers, who, in
such cases, experience the smallest benefit from the detention.
It would be difficult to state the expences incident to residence at any
of those houses where lodgings are let: which includes all, excepting
about half a dozen of the seniors on the island: the rates vary
according to the demand at the moment, or the expectation of early
arrivals. It may be concluded, that cheapness neither is, nor can be,
the characteristic of James Town, when I observe, that, merely for the
use of an apartment, such as nothing but the change of scene would have
induced me to occupy, wherein I occasionally slept on a truck-bed,
whereof the whole apparatus might safely have been sent to the paper
mills, the charge made was twelve shillings daily, or rather nightly;
for I never ate a meal in the house. Let it not be understood that I
speak this in derogation of the people: far otherwise; I experienced all
the civility they had the opportunity of shewing, and I really believe
they regretted their want of means to render my slumbers more
refreshing.
Their exertions might, perhaps, have obtained me a more comfortable
lodging, but there were other matters far beyond their power to remedy:
among these may be noticed the myriads of cock-roaches, (or _blatta
gigantea_,) which at night crawled about the bed; offending not only by
the very unpleasant sensations produced by their claws, but by their
peculiarly nauseous scent. As for rats, of no small breed, nor, indeed,
confined to one species, they made as free, at all hours, as though they
had paid for their lodging, and absolutely seemed to approach with
perfect indifference: their gallopings, not only within the walls, but
over me as I slept, together with some very unceremonious pulls at my
hair, (for I then used powder,) at length compelled me to sleep, when
opportunity offered, on board the vessel, wherein our stock of these
devastators, though not insignificant, was considerably less numerous,
and far more reserved. We had, however, abundance of cock-roaches, about
two inches in length, and an inch broad; but, owing to the pains taken
to catch them by means of saucers filled with oil, of which they are
extremely fond, their numbers were greatly reduced; but we could never
hope for their extirpation, as every crevice afforded them shelter, and
the opportunity of depositing their eggs in safety.
It may be asked why I did not move to some other house? In reply
thereto, it will be only necessary to observe, that I was recommended to
the good folks, or they to me, (I forget which) by a gentleman to whose
urbanity and kindness I was under much obligation: besides, I was daily
in hopes of quitting the island; therefore judged it most expedient to
remain where I was, lest I might, by avoiding Scylla, stumble upon
Charybdis. There are one or two shops in James Town, where goods of
various descriptions are sold. I had occasion to buy a hat, for which I
paid ten dollars, and on my arrival in England found that it could never
have stood the exporter in more than twelve shillings, even under a
salt-water invoice. But it was the best that was for sale, and I was
compelled to the purchase.