Nothing seems to have changed in Albania from the 14th century to the

Hoxha days. Burdened by the malaise it contracted from the Ottoman

Empire, it was plagued by poverty, banditry, illiteracy, blood feuds,

disease and the slavery of women and of peasants. At first, the

communist tried to tackle all these ills simultaneously. They drafted a

grand plan of modernization. They vowed to liberate Albania

economically and socially, now that it has been liberated politically

(their reference point was, strangely enough, the bourgeoisie war of

1912). Peasants were handed tiny plots of land taken from the broken

estates of the former beys in an ambitious agrarian reform. Industry,

banks and all foreign property were nationalized. Agriculture was

collectivised in the best Stalinist traditions, though far less swiftly

(it was completed only in 1967). Hoxha subjugated the wild highlands

and strove to eliminate blood feuds and other feudal habits, taking on

the hitherto invincible bajraktars in the process. Women were granted

legal equality with men and were encouraged to participate actively in

their society.

Albania was promiscuous in its foreign affairs, changing partners often

and seemingly whimsically. It paired with Yugoslavia under Tito until

1948, then with the Soviet Union during the days of Stalin and

Khrushchev (until 1961) and then with Maoist China (until 1978). It

expected to receive monetary and military aid - and it did. It received

enormous infusions of credits relative to its economy and it was

virtually invaded by regiments of technical experts who provided

assistance with the various aspects of running a modern state.

Gradually, agriculture was mechanized, industry was modernized and

standards of living increased. It was a golden age and many were happy.

But Hoxha was unhappy. He accused each ally of Albania in its turn of

betraying unadulterated Marxism-Leninism in favour of the wiles of the

capitalistic West. His allies were as disenchanted with his growing

paranoia and geopolitical sado-masochism. Isolated, paranoiac,

obsessive and phobic - Hoxha promulgated an ideology of

self-sufficiency, go-it-alone and the world-is-against-us. Thus, while

Albania made impressive leaps of technology in draining swamps, while

it unified its dialects into a uniform literary language, while it

industrialized and mechanized and reformed and transformed - and it has

- it did so in splendid isolation, often re-inventing the wheel. And it

had a nightmare called Sigurimi.

The Sigurimi was the shadowy, quasi-criminal state security apparatus.

It was a snake raised in the warm bosom of the party. It was

omnipotent. Real or imaginary rivals of the party (really of Hoxha)

were publicly humiliated, dismissed from job, imprisoned in a system of

hideous Gulags, or summarily executed. These bulimic purges were

coupled with growing schizoid tendencies. Travel abroad was prohibited

except on official business, religion (a backward, unprogressive,

disuniting force) was banned.

When Hoxha died in 1985, he was succeeded by a crony, Ramiz Alia, an

Albanian Gorbachev who introduced local versions of Perestroika and

Glasnost even before the Soviet leader did. He legalized foreign

investments and established diplomatic relations with the hitherto

reviled West. But, despite his courage and relative openness, he shared

the fate of other reformers, falling victim to the very forces he

unleashed. In 1989, the workers, the intellectuals and the Albanian

youth were all against the regime. In a spasmodic act of

self-preservation, Alia granted Albanian citizens the right to travel

abroad, limited the reach and powers of the Sigurimi, restored

religious freedom, freedom of political association and adopted free

market reforms. Nothing much was left of Hoxha's heritage. Several

governments later, the Democratic Party, an anti-communist hodgepodge

alliance of interests won the elections (1992). Berisha succeeded Alia.

The communist rule was no more.

It was the beginning of a new Albania. Facing west, it hoped, as it

always has, to modernize, to reform, to belong.

But it was not meant to be.

(Article published October 18-29 - November 1-8

in "Central Europe Review" volume 1, issues 17-20)

Return

The Bad Blood of Kosovo

The old Montenegrins, tall as their mountains, their rocky faces

ravaged by an unforgiving weather define "osveta" thus:

"Osveta, that means... a kind of spiritual fulfilment. You have killed

my son, so I killed yours; I have taken revenge for that, so I now sit

peacefully in my chair."

Milovan Djilas, who helped Tito become Tito and then was imprisoned for

trying to be Djilas, wrote in his book "Land Without Justice"

(Harcourt, Brace 1958):

"Vengeance - this a breath of life one shares from the cradle with

one's fellow clansmen, in both good fortune and bad, vengeance from

eternity. Vengeance was the debt we paid for the love and sacrifice our

forebears and fellow clansmen bore for us. It was the defence of our

honour and good name, and the guarantee of our maidens. I t was our

pride before others; our blood was not water that anyone could spill.

It was, moreover, our pastures and springs - more beautiful than anyone

else's - our family feasts and births. It was the glow in our eyes, the

flame in our cheeks, the pounding in our temples, the word that turned

to stone in our throats on our hearing that our blood had been shed. It

was the sacred task transmitted in the hour of death to those who had

just been conceived in our blood. It was centuries of manly pride and

heroism, survival, a mother's milk and a sister's vow, bereaved parents

and children in black, joy and songs turned into silence and wailing.

It was all, all."

And this is what Margaret Durham had to say in her celebrated

ethnography of Albania, a long time ago ("Some Tribal Origins of Laws

and Customs of the Balkans" - Allan and Unwin, 1928):

"A certain family had long been notorious for evil-doing - robbing,

shooting, and being a pest to the tribe. A gathering of all the heads

condemned all the males of the family to death. Men were appointed to

lay in wait for them on a certain day and pick them off; and on that

day the whole seventeen of them were shot. One was but five and another

but twelve years old. I protested against thus killing children who

must be innocent and was told: 'It was bad blood and must not be

further propagated.' Such was the belief in heredity that it was

proposed to kill an unfortunate woman who was pregnant, lest she should

bear a male and so renew the evil."

In the second century BC, Kosovo was populated by people with

picturesque names: the Iliyrians, Thracians, the Celts. The whole area

was under Roman rule and was subjected to the industriousness and

meticulousness of Empire. Roads were paved, cities built, populations

moved and commerce flourished. This lasted two hundreds years. Slav

tribes descended from the Carpathian Mountains and ended it in orgies

of blood and fire. Until this very day, serious Greek politicians

invoke this primordial invasion in their effort to convince an

incredulous world that the (current) Macedonians are not the (True)

Macedonians. "They are the off spring of invading Slavs" - they claim,

passionately, as is the habit in the Balkans. It took another two

centuries and a Byzantine brief occupation to force the reluctant Slavs

to settle along the Sava River and to form the poor semblance of a

civilization in the making. Roving "saints" of fervent disposition

taught them a new alphabet. Cyril and Methodius were succeeded by

disciples all over Central and Eastern Europe - from the period of

Kliment Ohridski in today's territories of Macedonia and Bulgaria to

Amos Comenius, the 17th century educator, considered in the Balkans to

be their spiritual descendant in the Czech Lands.

This ability to cast their myths in paper in the vernacular, to hand

the national memory down the generations, the newfound Christian

religion - all coagulated into an emergently distinct culture. Come the

12th century, Kosovo was entirely Slav.

Or, to be more precise: entirely Serb. The Slavs fractured into three

groups. The Croats and Slovenes, baptized by Rome, became ardent Roman

Catholics. The Serbs - introduced to the faith by Byzantium - remained

Eastern Orthodox. This division was to last a thousand years as the

Croats and the Slovenes came under the influence and rule of the

Catholic Habsburgs while the Serbs were subjected to the crumbling

Ottoman chaos. Geography mirrored a tormented topography of

mentalities, religious persuasions and political affiliations. The

Serbs occupied today's Serbia, Montenegro and Bosnia Herzegovina. The

Croats and Slovenes occupied the rest of latter day Yugoslavia. The

Tito generated unity of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes was but a brief and

false note. It could not have lasted - and, indeed, it hasn't.

The Serbs established a principality in Kosovo - the nucleus of what

later came to be known as the Serbian Golden Age. It was situated in

the rustic but magnificent valley of Ibar and controlled most of the

Sandzak. Gradually, the whole of hitherto empty Kosovo became theirs

and they felt sufficiently at home to form a Serbian Orthodox Church

with its seat in Raska, just north of Kosovo. It took 19 years

(1200-1219) to complete this feat of independence and all this time

Kosovo was fought over by Serbs, Bulgarians, Hungarians, Romans and

Byzantines. Hundreds of years of strife, veiled conspiracies, invasions

and rotting corpses in sun drenched battlefields.

To the Serbs it was a Golden Age. Under the Nemanje dynasty, luck

struck thrice in the figures of kings Stephen (1169-89), Milutin

(1281-1321) and Dusan (1331-55). Workers were brought in from

Transylvania to mine the wealth of the land. Ever more prosperous,

Kosovo became the throbbing heart of Serbland. The splendid royal

court, ravishing in gold and red, radiated power north of Kosovo and

unto today's Slovenia, up to the Adriatic Sea, making Pec the new seat

of the Serbian Orthodox church. When Dusan died, history held its

breath, the nation poised precariously on a precipice of internecine

conflict. But the stability was fake. The question of inheritance,

translated into the currency of power plays, tore the land apart. The

Turks were there to pick up the pieces in the masochistically

celebrated battle of Kosovo Polje in June 28th 1389. But not for

another 70 years did they exert real control over this newly gained

territory - so powerful and ferocious were their Serb adversaries even

in their decline. Besieged by Mongols from the east, the Turks, already

the sick man, retreated and left the Serbs to their own

self-destructive devices.

All this time, there are no Albanians in the historiography of this

cursed land. It is, therefore, almost startling to find them there,

sufficiently armed and organized t oppose the... Turks!

Having dealt the Mongols some mortal blows, the Turkish beast shifted

its attention to another bruise in its by now writhing body, to Kosovo.

The Turkish armies conquered Prizren, driving before them the

dilapidated and depleted Serb forces. It was an Albanian king,

Skanderberg, who rebelled against them there. Albanians then were

Catholics (as many of them are to this very day), their war against

their future allies, a holy war. This was in 1459 and only 250 years

later did the Turks embark upon a policy of actively encouraging the

(by now Muslim) Albanians to emigrate to Kosovo - not before the Serbs

were expelled following an unsuccessful rebellion in 1690.

This Turkish propensity was nothing extraordinary. Empires throughout

history settled "loyal" populations where they displaced restive ones.

But in Kosovo a confluence of fault lines led to especially bitter

sediments, which went on to poison the waters of co-existence for

centuries to come. Converted Moslem Albanians versus Christian Serbs;

Albanian collaborators and traitors (as perceived by the Serbs) versus

Serb mythical heroes (again as perceived by the Serbs); a nation of the

ascendance versus a nation dispersed and the last European defence line

against Islam traitorously compromised by fellow Christians and

Christian kingdoms. Serbs fleeing from Kosovo, from Serbia itself, from

Bosnia and Herzegovina and Macedonia - moved due north, to refugee

camps set up by the Habsburg empire. Serbs settled in Vojvodina and

Krajina, thus sowing the seeds of 20th century conflicts with Croatia

and Hungary. And all this time they carried with them a baggage of

hatred and revenge, a lethal, bloodied promise to be back and to exact

the price of betrayal from the Albanians. In 1737 they established a

Serbian homeland in Vojvodina. In 1738 they rebelled, again to be

defeated in the scene of their national trauma, in Kosovo Polje.

Another wave of immigrants followed and another wave of Albanians took

over their abandoned property in Metohia. The Turks abolished the seat

of the Serb church in Pec in 1766. It seemed that the Serb nation has

been all but eradicated.

But this was not to be. In one of the more magnificent sleights of hand

that history is so famous for - the Russians forced the beaten Ottoman

Empire to grant the Serbs autonomy. It was nothing like the hallowed

past sovereignty and glory of the Dusan court but it was a step that

rekindled nationalistic sentiments in the most humble and humbled Serb

throughout the land. This flame has since never been extinguished and

it is at the blazing heart of the Milosevic Yugoslav Wars of

Inheritance. That - and the belief that history is cyclical and that

there is always hope.

Kosovo was by now entirely "Alabanized". Pristina was the hub of

transport and the seat of the administration. Names of places, which

resounded both in the 14th century and at the close of the 20th, recur.

In Prizren in 1878 the Albanians established their first national

movement. There they came of age. The infancy of Serbhood and the

adulthood of Albanianism clashed in the same region, the prelude to the

tragedy of 1999.

Under the Treaty of Berlin in 1878, Serbia became de jure an

independent country. Its anguished delegation, eager and paranoid, gave

up Kosovo in dealings behind the gilded scenes. It was a tactical move,

which the Serbs reversed in the First Balkan War (1912) - when they

regained Kosovo - and in the Second Balkan War (1913) when they

regained Macedonia. In these bloody rehearsals of the World Wars, the

Serbs succeeded to redefine the borders - but also to give birth to

Albania. It is an irony of history that Serb bellicosity and

nationalistic dreams gave rise to the modern Albanian state. But then

this IS the nature of the Balkans - a hazy nightmare in which enemies

give birth to one another. An intricate commerce of Christian death and

resurrection, the gifts of death and life exchanged among Gregorian

chants and the prayer cries of Muezzins. In 1926 the Serbs and the

Albanians drew the borderline between their sovereign states. It was a

bad invention, this line of demarcation. It separated close to 600,000

Albanians in Kosovo and Macedonia from Albania proper. The disgruntled

populace did not engage in acts of terror or in gestures of

nationalistic indignation. Instead, they emigrated to Albania and to

Turkey - tens of thousands of Albanians, perhaps as many as three

hundred thousand, or half the population. And the Serbs came in their

stead. The wheel has been reversed, or so it seemed.

Nothing in the Balkans is what it seems to be. Every surface is teeming

underneath with hidden meanings, obscure interpretations and exegetic

excesses. They who are up go down, bringing in their wake, through the

sheer force of their own fall - the rise of their adversaries. Delicate

laws of conservation preserve all grudges balanced, all the accounts

settled and all agony equally distributed. It is an entropy of history

itself, slowly decaying into chaotic repetition.

And thus when Italy conquered Kosovo (it, with Ethiopia being the only

thing it ever conquered) - it gave it to Albania. Germany, which

dominated Yugoslavia, consented. For a brief four years, the Albanian

nation was completely united, territorially, at least.

But this did not last long. After the war, Yugoslavia re-acquired

Kosovo and the communist regime embarked on a Turkish-like brutal

suppression of the Albanian population. For twenty-one years, secret

units of the police hunted, executed and mutilated free spirited

Albanians all over Kosovo. In more ways than one, Albanians were the

first true dissidents in the entire communist bloc. How ironic, if one

recalls the Albanian Enver Hoxa, the leader of next-door Albania and

the fiercest of all communist leaders. In 1968 Albanian students joined

their colleagues the world over and demonstrated against Serb

repression. These particular outbursts were easily squashed but in 1974

Kosovo was made an autonomous province of Yugoslavia by constitutional

reforms. School instruction in Albanian was legalized. During all this

period, Serbs - especially battle hardened war veterans - were

economically encouraged to migrate to Kosovo. Albanians were encouraged

to go the other way and many did. About 200,000 Albanians left between

the years 1954-7 alone!!!

By now, these human waves and military trampling left Kosovo

dilapidated to the core, a backwater both economically and culturally.

People left Kosovo in this period because it offered no present work

and no future prospects. One hundred thousand Serbs left between

1961-87. Much later many would claim that they were harassed by the

Albanian majority but this sounds fake, a re-writing of history.

Albanians left as well. Everyone who had a choice chose to leave

impoverished Kosovo.

Then Tito died and nothing was the same. The 1981 riots in Kosovo led

to the imposition of martial law. As students from Pristina University

rampaged in the streets, the government sealed Kosovo off, sent in the

militia to restore order (which it did with vehement cruelty and

bestiality) and closed down educational institutions. Pristina

University was always a hotbed of nationalism - witness its

Maoist-Marxist graduate, the head of the KLA and the self-appointed

Prime Minister of Kosovo, Hashim Thaci. But that particular spring was

exceptional. Public disorder was coupled with grave acts of economic

sabotage. The students demanded an end to discrimination and certain

freedoms but really they demanded jobs commensurate with their

training, jobs, which they believed went to the Serbs.

Five years later, a hitherto obscure communist leader (he was just

elected Serbia's party secretary) visited Kosovo. In a chance encounter

with angry Serb mobs in the streets of Pristina he accused the

Albanians of genocide. "No one should do this to you" - he said, grim

faced, visibly shaken, cunningly calculating.

His name was Milosevic.

(Article published August 16, 1999 in "Central Europe Review"

volume 1, issue 8)

Return

The Plight of the Kosovar

Rumour has it that from now on, citizens of the Former Yugoslav

Republic of Macedonia will need a hard-to-obtain visa to enter the

Czech Republic. This already is the case with Bosnians, for instance.

Officials in Macedonia believe that this is intended to stem a flow of

future Kosovar immigrants. If so, the Czech government holds a grim

view of the prospects of peace there and rightly so. Discounting the

Second World War and numerous other skirmishes, the developing war in

Kosovo is the Fourth Balkan War. The Czech Republic already hosts a

great number of "Former Yugoslavs" and of Albanians, for measure.

Ordinary Czechs believe them to be responsible - together with Russians

and Ukrainians - to the uncontrollable and intimidating wave of street

crime. This intuition, it seems, is based less on statistics than on

plain old xenophobia.

The situation is shrouded in myths and misconceptions. The Albanians in

Albania are not related to the Albanians in Macedonia (known as

"Shiptars"). The former are mostly Christians - the latter Moslems

(like their brethren in Kosovo). Even the Albanians in Albania are not

a cohesive lot - they are divided to Northerners and Southerners with

bitter mutual enmity the only thing connecting them. Witness the recent

near disintegration of the Albanian state over regional politics

(disguised as a financial scandal). The risk of a spillover of the

conflict into Albanian territory is small. Not so with Macedonia. This

is why NATO is flexing its muscles on Macedonian territory. The message

is ostensibly intended for Yugoslav ears. Really, NATO hopes that it

will echo far north, in the Kremlin. The Balkans is a strategic area -

says NATO - and we will bomb to pieces anyone who wishes to meddle in

it. Cold war rhetoric and not from Russian lips, this time.

The Slav Macedonians loathe and fear the Albanians. The latter do not

hide their desire to tear Macedonia apart and establish a Greater

Albania, comprising Macedonia's Western parts. Radical new leaders -

such as the now imprisoned Rufi Osmani, mayor of Gostivar - hoisted

Albanian flags on municipal buildings. This led to bloody riots. Slav

students counter-rioted when Albanians demanded bilingual education.

Things are explosive even without Kosovo.

But this is part of a larger picture. The Macedonian political elite

never really wanted to separate itself from the Yugoslav Federation. In

the first years of the embargo on Yugoslavia, Macedonia was the main

route of smuggling into the beleaguered country (from Greece, through

the Vardar river). Macedonia is torn between supporting Serbia and the

Slav cause (championed by Russia) - and complying with Western

pressures. The West finances the gigantic trade and current account

deficits of Macedonia, without which the economy and the currency would

have long crashed even beyond their incredibly depressed levels. Other

factions still dream about a Greater Bulgaria. The opposition,

IMRO-DPMNE is accused of being the creation of the Bulgarian secret

service, or the Bulgarian mob, depending on the speaker. Persistent

rumours have it that Milosevic signed a secret pact with the Macedonian

ruling (former socialist) party, the SDSM, using the mediation of

Arkan, a particularly ferocious militia commander in the good old days.

Serbia undertook to heat the border with Macedonia just before the

October elections and thus to allow the government either to postpone

them or to declare a state of emergency. The SDSM stands to lose big in

the elections following economic mismanagement and colossal corruption

charges. The main beneficiary is a repatriated politician (whose vote,

by the way, was crucial in dismantling the Yugoslav Federation), Vasil

Tupurkovski. He is perceived as "Mr. Clean Hands", though backed, from

the shadows, by Big Business. He is also pro-American (he lived in the

States many years and his family is still there). Russian hands don't

like this, probably.

Gradually, anti-Western feelings are emerging in Macedonia. The USA is

perceived as automatically anti-Serbian (read: anti-Slav) and

pro-Albanian. Emotions run high against Germany and the United Kingdom,

as well. Russia benefits from all this. If it plays its cards wisely,

it could achieve two goals: (a) Destabilize the Southern flank of NATO

and (b) transform Macedonia into its agent. If the conflict escalates,

Greece and Turkey could be easily drawn in. Both are NATO members. They

will not be fighting on the same side, though. And maybe they will

carry the fighting into Cyprus. Though far fetched, this is the first

opportunity in a decade to seriously dent the NATO facade. Russia is

not likely to miss it. Milosevic, in many respects, is a pain. In other

respects, though, he is a strategic gift from heaven.

The Kosovo situation is a blessing, not in disguise, for Macedonia. It

is through this - and other Serb-induced crises - that Macedonia

attained geopolitical importance. The West pampers Macedonia and

finances its fiscal and trade excesses precisely because of its

strategic location and because of its Albanians. The potential for

inter-ethnic tension is deemed to be sizeable by the West. To avert it,

the West is willing to bribe all parties involved into tense calm and

strained civility.

After the Rain : how the West lost the East · 第 8 / 22 段