Albanians are comprised of a few ethnic groups of different creeds.

There are catholic Albanians - like Mother Theresa - and Muslim

Albanians - Like Hashim Thaci. There are Tosks - southern Albanians who

speak a (nasal) dialect of Albanian and there are Gegs - northern

Albanians (and Kosovars) who speak another dialect, which has little in

common with Tosk (at least to my ears). Tosks don't like Gegs and Gegs

detest Tosks. In a region where tribal and village loyalties

predominate these are pertinent and important facts.

The Kosovars are considered by their Albanian "brethren" (especially by

the Tosks, but also by Albanian Gegs) to be cold, unpleasant, filthy

rich cheats. Albanians - Tosks and Gegs alike - are considered by the

Kosovars to be primitive, ill-mannered bandits. There is no love lost

between all these groups. When the crisis brought on by Operation

Allied Force started, the local Albanian population charged the

refugees amidst them with exorbitant (not to say extortionate) prices

for such necessities as a roof over their head, food and cigarettes.

When the UN mandate (read: the KLA mandate) was established, the

Albanians rushed to export their brand of crime and banditry to Kosovo

and to prey on its local population. No Macedonian - however radical -

will dare say about the Albanians what my Kosovar contacts say. They

nonchalantly and matter of factly attribute to them the most heinous

crimes and uncivilized behaviour. Kosovars had - and are still having -

an excruciating experience in Albania during this crisis. The lesson

(being learned by Kosovars since Albania opened up to them in 1990)

will not be easily forgotten or forgiven. Albanians reciprocate by

portraying the Kosovars as cynical, inhuman, money making terminators,

emotionless wealthy predators.

This is not to say that Albanians on both sides of the border do not

share the same national dreams and aspirations. Kosovar intellectuals

were watching Albanian TV and reading Albanian papers even throughout

the Stalinist period of Enver Hoxha, the long time Albanian dictator.

Albanian nationalists never ceased regarding Kosovo as an integral part

of an Albanian motherland. But as the decades passed by, as the

dialects metamorphesized, as the divide grew wider, as the political

systems diverged and as the political and cultural agendas became more

distinct - Kosovars became more and more Kosovars and less and less

mainland Albanians.

This historical, 80 year-old rift was exacerbated by the abyss between

the Enver Hoxha regime and its Tito counterpart. The former -

impoverished, paranoiac, xenophobic, hermetically isolated, violent.

The latter - relatively enlightened, economically sprightly, open to

the world and dynamic. As a result, Kosovar houses are three times as

big as Albanian ones and Kosovars used to be (up to the Kosovo

conflict) three times richer (in terms of GDP per capita). Kosovars

crossing into Albania during the Hoxha regime were often jailed and

tortured by its fearsome secret police. A Kosovar - Xhaferr Deva -

served as Minister of the Interior in the hated WW2 government in

Albania, which collaborated wholeheartedly with the Nazis. Albanians,

in general, were much more reserved and suspicious towards the Germans

(who occupied Albania from 1943, after the Italian change of heart).

Only Kosovars welcomed them as liberators from Serb serfdom (as did

Albanians in Macedonia to a lesser extent). This aforementioned Deva

was responsible for the most unspeakable atrocities against the

Albanian population in Albania proper. It did not render the Kosovars

more popular. In Albania proper, three anti-fascist resistance

movements - the Albanian Communist Party, Balli Kombetar (the National

Front) and Legaliteti (Legality, a pro-Zug faction) fought against the

occupiers since 1941. The Communists seized control of the country at

the end of 1944.

Thus, the forced re-union was a culture shock to both. The Kosovars

were stunned by the living conditions, misery and lawlessness of

Albania proper. The Albanians were envious and resentful of their

guests and regarded them as legitimate objects for self-enrichment.

There were, needless to say, selfless exceptions to the egotistic rule.

But I cannot think of any right now.

Historically, there was never a "Great Albania" to hark back to.

Albania was created in 1912 (its borders finally settled in 1913) in

response to Austro-Hungarian demands. It never encouraged Kosovo to

secede. The Albanian King Zog suppressed the activities of Kosovar

irredentist movements in his country in between the two world wars.

Albania, mired in the twin crises of economy and identity - had little

mind or heart for Kosovo.

But this was the culmination of a much longer, convoluted and

fascinating history.

From Illyrium to Skanderberg

There is very little dispute among serious (that is, non-Greek,

non-Macedonian and non-Serb) scholars that the Albanians are an ancient

people, the descendants of the Illyrians or (as a small minority

insists) the Thracians. The Albanian language is a rather newer

development (less than 1500 years-old) - but it is also traced back

either to Thracian or to Illyrian. In a region obsessed with history,

real and (especially) invented, these 4000 year-old facts are of

enormous and practical import.

Ironically, the Illyrians were an ethnic mishmash that inhabited all of

the former Yugoslavia and parts of Greece (Epirus). There were also

major differences between the Illyrians of the highlands (the current

Albania) - isolated and backward - and those of the lowland, the

worldly and civilized. But these distinctions pale in comparison to the

praise heaped on the Illyrians by their contemporaries. They were

considered to be brave warriors and generous hosts. They mined their

rich land for iron, copper, gold and silver and, despite being pagan,

they buried their dead because they believed in the afterlife and its

rewards or punishments. In their liburnae - slim lined, very fast

galleys - they sailed and developed marine trade. The Romans adopted

the design of their vessels and even kept the name Liburnian.

Durres and Vlore were really established by the Greeks 2500 years ago.

The former was called Epidamnus, the latter (actually, a settlement a

few kilometres away) Apollonia. It was part of a Greek colonization

drive that effected lands as far away as Asia Minor in today's Turkey.

As was the usual case, the Greeks traded their superior civilization

and culture for the superior administrative and economic skills of the

natives. It was no coincidence that Illyrian political organization was

concurrent with the Greek presence. It started as defence alliances and

ended as kingdoms (the Enkalayes, the Taulantes, the Epirotes, the

Ardianes). And the enemy - even then - were the Macedonians under

Philip the Second and his son Alexander the Great.

But the Macedonian empire was short lived and was superseded by the far

superior and self-conscious Romans. In 229, the Illyrians (commanded by

a woman, Queen Teuta) were almost wiped out by Roman armies advancing

to the Adriatic. It was the beginning of the damaging involvement of

the superpowers in the area. Exactly 60 years later, Illyrium was no

more. Rome prevailed and ruled the land now known as Illyricum.

Those were a good 600 years. Rome - as opposed to Ottoman Empire - was

a benign, enlightened, laissez faire type of loose assemblage of

taxpayers and tax collectors. Art and culture and philosophy and even

the Illyrian tongue and Illyrian civilization flourished. It was a

rich, materially endowed period in which citizens found sufficient

leisure to indulge in all manner of Eastern cults, such as Christianity

or the cult of Mithra (the Persian god of light). Christianity competed

head on with the Illyrian pagan divinities and by 58 AD it was so

strong that it was able to establish its own bishopric in Dyrrhachium

(formerly Apollonia). This was followed by a few Episcopal seats. It

was also followed by intolerance, bigotry, hypocrisy and persecution,

as all institutional religions go. The Roman and Greek heritage of live

and let live, of art, of the aesthetics of the human body, of nature -

in short: Hellenism - was strangled by the ever more obscure and

dogmatic brand of Christianity that pervaded Byzantium until the

Iconoclastic Controversy of 732. The emperor Leo III actually did the

Albanian Church a great favour by detaching it from under the authority

of the Roman Pope and placing it under the more humane patriarch of

Constantinople. Still, the dividing line between north and south in

Albania was as much religious as economic. The south maintained its

allegiance to Constantinople while the north looked south, to Rome for

spiritual guidance. When the church split in 1054 (to East and West) -

these affiliations remained intact.

It is very little known but the Illyrians actually ruled the Roman

Empire in its last decades. There were a few Illyrian emperors (Gaius

Decius, Claudius Gothicus, Aurelian, Probus, Diocletian, even

Constantine the Great). And most of the officers of the by now fabled

though dilapidated Roman army were Illyrians. In 395, in the

cataclysmic split of the dying empire to East (later, Byzantium) and

West, Albania became finally and firmly a part of the East. The

Illyrians continued to exercise great influence of the amputated East,

some of them becoming influential and historically significant emperors

(Anastasius I, Justin I, Justinian I). As a result, Illyria was the

favourite target of all manner of barbarian tribes: the Visigoths, the

Huns, the Ostrogoths. When the Slavs appeared on the heels of these

invasions, the Illyrians regarded them as just another barbarian tribe.

The interaction between the Illyrians and the Slavs was a love-hate

relationship and has remained so ever since. Some Illyrian groups

assimilated, intermarried and assumed the culture of the invaders. In

300 years, between the 6th and the 8th centuries AD, all the Illyrians

in today's former Yugoslav republics vanished only to re-appear as

Slavs. But the Illyrians of the south (Albania, Western Macedonia)

resisted this process of dilution bitterly and preserved their identity

and culture fiercely. To distinguish themselves from the "assimilated"

- they invented Albania. The name itself is much older. Ptolemy of

Alexandria mentioned it 600 years before the Illyrians began to apply

it to their dwindling polity. And another 300 years were needed - well

into the 11th century AD - before the Illyrians were fully accepted

their reinvention as Albanians - the successors to the Albanoi tribe,

which used to occupy today's central Albania (formerly called Arberi).

Five centuries later, the Albanians themselves renamed their territory

and began to call it Shqiperia. No one really knows why, not even

Albanian scholars, though they like to attribute it (on flimsy

etymological grounds) to Shqipe, the Albanian word for Eagle. Thus,

Albania was transformed to the Land of the Eagle.

It is an irony of history that the Middle (or Dark) Ages were the best

period ever in Albania's history. Powerful cities proliferated,

inhabited by a class of burghers who engaged in trading. Albanian

merchant houses established outposts and branches all over the

Mediterranean, from Venice to Thessalonica. Albanians were the epitome

of education and cultivated the arts. They conversed only in Greek and

Latin, letting the auld language die. The Byzantine Empire was divided

to military provinces (themes). One thing led to another and military

commanders transformed feudal lords administered serfdom to the

population. Feudalism co-existed and then supplanted urbanism and the

big estates became so autonomous that they ignored the Byzantine court

altogether.

But Albania was never peaceful. It was conquered by Bulgarians,

Normans, Italians, Venetians and Serbs in 1347. Many Albanians

immigrated when the Serbs took over, led by Stefan Dusan. They went to

Greece and the Aegean Islands. It was not until 1388 that Albania was

invaded by the Turks. By 1430 it was Turkish. By 1443 it was Albanian.

To this incredible turn of events, the Albanian had Skanderberg to

thank. A military genius (real name Gjergj Kastrioti), he drove the

rising superpower of the Balkans out in a series of humiliating defeats

administered by a coalition of Albanian princes. From his mountainous

hideout in Kruje, he frustrated the Turkish efforts to regain Albania

(they were planning to use it as staging ground for the invasion of

Italy and, thereafter, Western Europe). The Italians (even the Pope,

then the long arm of various shady Italian principates) supported

Skanderberg monetarily and militarily - but he did by far the lion's

share of the work.

But it was a personality-dependent achievement. Like all great leaders,

Skanderberg's fault is that he refused to admit his own mortality and

to nurture the right successor. Following his death, the Turks

recaptured Albania in 1506. But Skanderberg's heroic fight had two

important consequences. One outcome was a considerable weakening of the

Turkish drive towards the heart of Europe and its West. They will never

regain the momentum again and the war was lost. The second momentous

consequence was that his struggle moulded an Albanian NATION where

there was none before.

From the Ottomans to the Americans

The Ottoman occupation was an unmitigated misfortune. Albania -

culturally, a veritable part of Italy in the past - was cut off from it

and from the Renaissance it spawned. The Turks brought with them their

venal type of devastation, not only economic, not only physical, not

only in human lives - but also cultural. A gangrenous paralysis ensued.

The lucky quarter of the population escaped to Italy. The others were

left to fight it out through civil disobedience (refusal to pay taxes,

to serve in the army, to surrender their weapons) and in open

rebellion, time and again, indefatigably and resourcefully, often in

the name of the Christian faith. To put an end to the nuisance, the

Turks islamised the lot (at any rate, two thirds of the lot) during the

16th and 17th centuries. To ensure conversion, the Turks tortured,

killed, raped and taxed the Christians. It worked and people crossed to

the other side in droves. Now there were Catholic Albanians and Muslim

Albanians. It was a replay of the old, 11th century, religious

fragmentation. Albanian political leaders in the 19th century - aware

of the potential of these fractures to denationalise - insisted on

"Albanianism" - a substitute, unifying political "religion". The

rallying cry was: "The religion of Albanians is Albanianism."

Nothing much changed in Albania since the time of feudalism. The Turks

awarded local warlords with land estates to administer (timars). These

warlords - the centres of real power both political and military -

subverted the authority and dominion of the empire. The more the latter

tried to appease them with endowments - the more potent and ambitious

they became. The Bushati family, the eccentric Ali Pasa Tepelene (who

also ruled Northern Greece) and others. In convulsive feats of

reassertion of authority, some sultans deposed of these pashas - but

this did not anything to diminish the autonomy of their estates. In

1831, Turkey abolished the timar system altogether. This bold reform

backfired as the old estates fragmented even further and power devolved

to even lower levels of communal organizations run by beys (in the

north) and bajraktars (everywhere) - bloodthirsty, rigidly patriarchal

and primitive mini rulers. Paradoxically, Albanians who emigrated

(mainly to Turkey itself) rose to prominence. Turkey had 27 (!) grand

viziers (=prime ministers) of Albanian extract.

It was in Kosovo that discontent, unrest and revolt coagulated into the

League of Prizren in 1878. Originally, a narrow local interest northern

group, it fast adopted an expansive agenda, seeking to unify the four

parts of Albania in the four vilayets (Kosovo, Shkoder, Monastir,

Janina) into one political unit. But it wrong to attribute to it the

birth of the delirium of a Great Albania. The League sought an

administrative solution - not a political one. All they wanted was to

create an Albanian zone - but WITHIN the Ottoman Empire. They were more

focussed on benign, less threatening things like culture, art,

literature and education. In short, it was a cultural movement with

administrative aspirations - not the beast of untethered expansionism

it was made out to be by latter day (and rather interested) historians.

It was in Monastir (today's Bitola in Macedonia) that a national,

Latin, alphabet was adopted in 1908. More convenient than Greek or

Arabic - used until then - it triumphed.

History moves in quirkily agonizing twists and turns. It was the

League's involvement with the Albanian language and the strong

opposition by the Turks to its use (the League's activities in this

respect were banned in 1881) that transformed the League from a rather

local affair to a modern national movement along the Italian or German

lines. The Albanian language was indeed suffused by nationalism,

immersed in dreams and aspirations unfulfilled. Its reawakening

signalled the reawakening of Albanianism. When the last great hope,

sealed by Young Turk (broken) promises of autonomy and democracy, was

lost - the Albanians rebelled and forced the Sick Man of Europe to

swallow yet another dose of medicine. In 1912 Turkey granted the

Albanians their wishes only to face the Greek, Serb and Montenegrin

armies, which conquered Albania and divided it among them.

This trauma of division is a recurring trauma in the Albanian psyche.

How ironic that the only people who can empathize with them are the

Macedonians who share the same fear of being quartered. Faced with the

annihilation of Albania so soon after its birth, Albanian leaders met

in Vlore, led by Ismail Kemal, a former high-ranking Ottoman official

of Albanian origin. With nothing much to lose, they decelerated

independence (the Vlore Proclamation) on November 28, 1912.

In December 1912, the Great Powers (the forerunners of NATO) - Britain,

Germany, Russia, Austro-Hungary, Italy and France - met in London to

divide the unexpected spoils. The conference handed an independent

Albanian state to Austro-Hungary and Italy. But the price was a great

diminishment in its geographical scope. Kosovo was given to Serbia,

Cameria to Greece, the most luscious and productive lands and more than

half of all Albanians were left out of the new independent homeland.

Such was the nature of territorial comprises at that time that it

created more problems than it solved. Two news ones were born that day

and hour: a Yugoslav-Albanian flaring animosity and a Greek-Albanian

mutual denial. The unfortunate and tragicomic German who was appointed

to administer Albania (Wilhelm zu Wied) departed soon thereafter with

the outbreak of the First World War.

This first European bloodbath provoked all of Albania's neighbours into

an uncontrolled binge of invasions. Austro-Hungary, France, Italy,

Greece, Montenegro, Serbia - they all marched in with no plan in mind

but to occupy and plunder. The country turned chaotic and it took a

Woodrow Wilson in the Paris Peace Conference to avert an abolition of

the Albanian independent state. It was not the first time Albania

descended into chaos - nor was this to be the last time the Americans

would come to the help of the Albanians. Britain, France and Italy

planned to partition it, Wilson vetoed it and that was the end of the

plan and the beginning of Albania.

In Lushnje, in 1920, the Albanians convened a national congress and

established a government. That year, Albania was admitted to the League

of Nation, sponsored by the very Britain that sought its partition only

the year before. Secure in its sovereignty and international

recognition, Albania inverted its attention. Society was polarized

between land-owning fat cats, the beys and militant archconservative

bajraktars led by Ahmed Bey Zogu from Mat in the north. These

reactionaries were opposed by an uncomfortable coalition of merchants,

intellectuals, progressive politicians and assorted democrats led by an

improbable American-educated bishop of the Orthodox(!) church, one Fan

S. Noli, middle initial and all. The conflict ended 4 years later when,

in 1924 Zogu fled to Yugoslavia. But the entrenched power of the land

gentry was not to be discounted so easily. Noli, now a prime minister,

ruled over the Albanian equivalent of the Republic of Weimar. Radical

land reform, modernization, westernisation. But he was personally

unstable, he won no international recognition (he was considered a

revolutionary leftist) and he had no money to buy his way with. Zogu

came back, this time with a Yugoslav-backed army. He won.

From King Zog to a Brave, New World

Zog commenced his 14 years long reign first as president and then as

king (Zog the first, needless to add). He ruled over a time bomb. The

forces he suppressed with his foreign backed army were rather alive and

well, though in an underground sort of way. In dire need of funds,

after the self-inflicted destruction of his country, Zog resorted to

mortgaging it to foreign powers such as Italy. Italy collected on its

loans in 1939, when it invaded Albania on the way to its Balkan

treasure hunt. King Zog rule of beys and bajraktars aided by a ruthless

police, a Byzantine bureaucracy (a major employer) and Italian money

did stabilize the country, including to the bandit and brigand-ridden

highlands. Many schools were established during his reign. He even

turned a blind eye to western fashions. But this stability was brittle

and fake. Underneath the ornamental surface, the populace was seething.

Peasants aggrieved by the absence of land reform. Democrats opposed to

a dictatorship, however benign. Liberals opposed to the police state.

Nationalists opposed to the undue influence of foreign powers. Albania

imported grain to feed its impoverished population - and exported

people in search of a better life. Periodic revolts interspersed with

labour unrest led directly to the formation of the communist party, the

standard bearer of the educated classes.

In October 1940, Italy invaded Greece from Albania only to be folded

back to whence they came. Nazi Germany had to complete the job as it

swept through Yugoslavia and Greece. In 1941, Albania was rewarded for

its collaboration with the annexation of Kosovo from Yugoslavia and

Cameria from Greece. Having been nearly eliminated by the Allies

(Britain and France) at least twice - and having been rewarded by the

Axis (Austro-Hungary, Germany and Italy) numerous times throughout

their history, the Albanian's loyalty was not in doubt. Though never

the great ideologues - they were althesame instrumental in facilitating

the wartime hegemony of Germany and Italy over the Balkans. The

resistance movement was not uniform, nor was it very effective (though

Albanians like to portray it differently). Finally, in 1944, the

communists took over and their secretary general, Enver Hoxha, became

the leader of a new People's Republic of Albania, later adding the word

"Socialist" to its name (1976).

After the Rain : how the West lost the East · 第 7 / 22 段