return from the interior; and as the rainy season was now setting in, I
persuaded Karfa to return to his people at Jindey. He parted with me on
the 14th with great tenderness; but as I had little hopes of being able
to quit Africa for the remainder of the year, I told him, as the fact
was, that I expected to see him again before my departure. In this,
however, I was luckily disappointed; and my narrative now hastens to its
conclusion; for on the 15th, the ship Charlestown, an American vessel,
commanded by Mr. Charles Harris, entered the river. She came for slaves,
intending to touch at Goree to fill up; and to proceed from thence to
South Carolina. As the European merchants on the Gambia had at this time
a great many slaves on hand, they agreed with the captain to purchase the
whole of his cargo, consisting chiefly of rum and tobacco, and deliver
him slaves to the amount, in the course of two days. This afforded me
such an opportunity of returning (though by a circuitous route) to my
native country, as I thought was not to be neglected. I therefore
immediately engaged my passage in this vessel for America; and having
taken leave of Dr. Laidley, to whose kindness I was so largely indebted,
and my other friends on the river, I embarked at Kaye on the 17th day of
June.
Our passage down the river was tedious and fatiguing; and the weather was
so hot, moist, and unhealthy, that before our arrival at Goree, four of
the seamen, the surgeon, and three of the slaves, had died of fevers. At
Goree we were detained for want of provisions, until the beginning of
October.
The number of slaves received on board this vessel, both on the Gambia
and at Goree, was one hundred and thirty; of whom about twenty-five had
been, I suppose, of free condition in Africa, as most of them, being
Bushreens, could write a little Arabic. Nine of them had become captives
in the religious war between Abdulkader and Damel, mentioned in the
latter part of the preceding chapter; two of the others had seen me as I
passed through Bondou, and many of them had heard of me in the interior
countries. My conversation with them, in their native language, gave them
great comfort; and as the surgeon was dead, I consented to act in a
medical capacity in his room for the remainder of the voyage. They had in
truth need of every consolation in my power to bestow; not that I
observed any wanton acts of cruelty practised either by the master or the
seamen towards them; but the mode of confining and securing Negroes in
the American slave ships, (owing chiefly to the weakness of their crews,)
being abundantly more rigid and severe than in British vessels employed
in the same traffic, made these poor creatures to suffer greatly, and a
general sickness prevailed amongst them. Besides the three who died on
the Gambia, and six or eight while we remained at Goree, eleven perished
at sea, and many of the survivors were reduced to a very weak and
emaciated condition.
In the midst of these distresses, the vessel, after having been three
weeks at sea, became so extremely leaky, as to require constant exertion
at the pumps. It was found necessary, therefore, to take some of the
ablest of the Negro men out of irons, and employ them in this labour; in
which they were often worked beyond their strength. This produced a
complication, of miseries not easily to be described. We were, however,
relieved much sooner than I expected; for the leak continuing to gain
upon us, notwithstanding our utmost exertions to clear the vessel, the
seamen insisted on bearing away for the West Indies, as affording the
only chance of saving our lives. Accordingly, after some objections on
the part of the master, we directed our course for Antigua, and
fortunately made that island in about thirty-five days after our
departure from Goree. Yet even at this juncture we narrowly escaped
destruction; for on approaching the north-west side of the island, we
struck on the Diamond Rock, and got into St John's harbour with great
difficulty. The vessel was afterwards condemned as unfit for sea, and the
slaves, as I have heard, were ordered to be sold for the benefit of the
owners.
At this island I remained ten days; when the Chesterfield Packet,
homeward bound from the Leeward Islands, touching at St John's for the
Antigua mail, I took my passage in that vessel. We sailed on the 24th of
November; and after a short but tempestuous voyage, arrived at Falmouth
on the 22d of December; from whence I immediately set out for London;
having been absent from England two years and seven months.
[Here terminates Mr. Park's own narrative. The following chapters contain
an account of his life from his return to England, in 1797, to his death
on the Niger, in 1805; and also of the discoveries and adventures of
succeeding travellers.]
CHAPTER XXVII.
_Attempts of Horneman, Nicholls, Roentgen, and Adams._
During the interval which elapsed between Park's first and second
journey, several attempts were made to explore Central Africa. The first
traveller was Frederick Horneman, a student of Gottingen, who was
recommended by Professor Blumenbach to the patronage of the African
Association. After spending some time in the study of Natural History,
and the Arabic language, he went to Cairo, intending to join some
caravan, under the assumed character of an Arab or Moslem. It was not
till the following year, 1798, that he was enabled to find a caravan
proceeding westward, and bound for Fezzan. On the 8th September, they
left Egypt, entering upon a wide expanse of sandy desert, resembling what
might be supposed to be the bed of the ocean after the waters had left
it. It was covered with fragments of petrified wood, of a lightish grey
colour and bearing a strong resemblance to natural wood. The Arabs
travelled all day, and when they halted at night, each gathered a few
sticks and prepared his own victuals. There were a few _oases_ in this
waste. In ten days they came to Ummesogeir, a village containing one
hundred and twenty inhabitants, who lived on a rock, subsisting on dates,
and separated by immense tracts of sand from all intercourse with the
rest of the world. In twenty-four hours they came to Siwah, an extensive
oasis, about fifty miles in circumference, and the only inhabited spot of
any considerable extent on the route to Fezzan. Here there were found
some curious remains of antiquity; among the rest a monument, called by
the natives Ummebeda, a large mass of dilapidated ruins, which some
suppose to have been the celebrated shrine of Jupiter Ammon. Thence they
travelled through sandy regions, diversified with numerous limestone
rocks. Here Horneman was in considerable danger; for the caravan was met
by several hundred inhabitants of Siwah, mounted on asses, who pointed to
him and insisted that he and another of the caravan were Christians from
Cairo, against whom they cherished a deadly enmity. But Horneman's
coolness and courage disarmed their hostility; he insisted that he was a
Moslem, took out the Koran and read passages from it aloud, and even
challenged them to answer him on points of the Mahommedan faith.
Soon after the travellers entered the Black Harutsch, a range of dreary
mountains, the long defiles of which presented the most dismal prospect
imaginable. After sixteen days toilsome journeying they came to the great
Oasis, or small Kingdom of Fezzan. The inhabitants were a commercial
people, and received the caravan with joy. Much communication is held
between this place and Central Africa. Here Horneman endeavoured to
collect information concerning Tombuctoo and the Niger. He resolved to
visit Tripoli before endeavouring to penetrate to the south. He set off
on his journey southward on the 6th April 1800, along with two shereefs
or descendants of Mahomed, who had promised to protect him. Two years
elapsed before any more was heard of him; when a Fezzan merchant informed
the Danish Consul at Tripoli, that he was still alive. He was afterwards
reported to have resided in Kashna, about 1803. Major Denham heard that
he had penetrated as far as Nyffe on the Niger, where he fell a victim to
the climate.
The next traveller sent out to Africa was Mr. Nicholls, who resolved to
land at Calabar, in the Gulf of Benin, and thence to proceed into the
interior. He landed on the coast in January 1805, but speedily fell a
victim to the fever of the country.
Roentgen, a German, endeavoured to reach the interior by the way of
Morocco. He spoke Arabic fluently, assumed the Mahomedan garb, and
entertained high hopes of success. Having procured two guides, he joined
the Soudan caravan; but, a little distance from the spot whence he set
out, his corpse was found lying on the road.
Soon after, some information concerning Tombuctoo was derived from Adams,
an American sailor, who was wrecked upon the coast, and who reported that
he had been carried captive to that city by the Moors, and had remained
there six months. His description of this famous place ill corresponded
with the ideas which Europeans entertained of its splendour; the most
spacious of the houses being merely huts, one storey in height, composed
of timber frame-works filled with earth; and many of the inhabitants
sheltering themselves under hovels, consisting of branches of trees,
covered with mats of the palmetto. The palace was merely a collection of
such apartments enclosed by a mud wall. The inhabitants were of a gay and
thoughtless disposition, spending much of their time in dancing. The
chief traffic of the place was in slaves.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
_From Park's return, to his Second Expedition._
Park's own narrative of his travels will now have informed the reader of
all that wonderful train of events which the hardy and enterprising
discoverer went through: of his captivity among the Moors--his
escape--his discovery of the course of the Niger--of the African capital
of Sego--his journey through Bambarra, and his toilsome and perilous
return. On his arrival at Pisania, his kind and attentive friend Dr.
Laidley was absent, but a countryman, Mr. Robert Ainslie, invited him to
his house. In two days Dr. Laidley returned, and hailed Park with joy,
receiving him as "one risen from the dead." As no European vessel was at
that time expected to arrive at Gambia, Park embarked on the 15th June
1797, on board a slave-ship bound to America. This vessel was driven by
stress of wind to the West Indies, and at length, after much difficulty,
succeeded in making the island of Antigua; whence Park sailed on the 24th
November, in the Chesterfield Packet, which, after a short but stormy
passage, reached Falmouth on the 22d December. No intelligence had for a
long time reached England of the wanderer's fate, and his bones were
supposed to have been bleaching amid the sands of the desert.
Park arrived at London, before day-break, on the morning of the 25th;
and, unwilling to disturb his brother-in-law's family at such an
unseasonable hour, he wandered about for some time through the streets
near Mr. Dickson's residence. As he strolled along, finding one of the
entrances to the gardens of the British Museum accidentally left open, he
entered and walked about there for some time. It chanced that Mr.
Dickson, who superintended the gardens, had found occasion to go there
thus early about some trifling matter or other. What must have been his
astonishment at beholding, by the still weak light, the form--or as it
had rather seemed--the vision, of that relative, who had ever been in his
most anxious thoughts, and whose countenance he had never expected again
to see, or even to learn tidings of his fate. A joyful welcome of course
ensued, and Park's anxieties concerning his relations, were speedily set
at rest.
The interest attached to his return was by no means confined to his
relations and friends--the public at large, whose sympathies had followed
the traveller on his arduous way, were gratified to learn that he had
again returned, after having made important discoveries, and tracked a
considerable portion of the course of the Niger. Rumours were also
current of his "hair-breadth 'scapes," and the lovers of novelty and
adventure were anxious to hear the particulars of his wanderings. The
African Association triumphed in the success of his mission, and were
proud that the assiduous diligence of Park had, under such unfavourable
circumstances, collected a mass of information which so far outweighed
the results of all previous expeditions, and that they could therefore
claim justly more support from the public. They gave a substantial proof
of their gratitude to Park, by permitting him to publish his travels for
his own benefit; and a complete narrative of his journey from his own pen
was speedily announced to be in preparation. An abstract, drawn up by Mr.
Bryan Edwards, from Park's Notes, was printed for private circulation
among the members of the Association in the meantime; it was also
enriched by a valuable Memoir by Major Rennel, on African Geography. This
publication afterwards formed the ground-work of the larger work, to the
quarto edition of which Major Kennel's narrative was also appended.
During the remainder of that winter Park resided in London, arranging the
materials of his work; he also required to be in constant communication
with the members of the Association, while the memoirs we have alluded to
were being drawn up. His engaging and unassuming manners gained him the
friendship of Mr. Edwards, to whose country residence at Southampton he
paid frequent visits. Repeated offers were made to him by Government, who
then wished to procure a complete survey of New Holland; but this scene
of action did not seem to present sufficient attractions to Park, for he
declined it.
In June 1798, Park went to Scotland, and visited his relations at
Fowlshiels, where he remained the whole of the ensuing summer and autumn.
Great must have been the joy of his relatives, when he, who had been
mourned for as dead, was again an inmate of their house. The fame which
he had earned in other quarters by his daring heroism, must have been
poor in value, compared with the admiration and interest with which his
tales were listened to beneath the domestic roof; and the expressions of
wonder which his adventures had extorted from strangers, must to his mind
have seemed tame and heartless, when he beheld the astonishment and
breathless interest depicted on the countenances, and glistening in the
eyes of the family circle. All this time he was employed upon his
travels, busying himself with his manuscripts almost the whole day, and
only indulging himself in the evenings with a solitary walk. The work was
difficult, and untried authorship he found almost as arduous as his
journeyings. He was unaccustomed to writing; his notes were imperfect and
scanty, so that he had frequently to draw upon memory; care, and
correction, and retrenchment were necessary to render his work worthy of
the interest which his adventures had excited; and he knew that it would
be carefully sifted by each of the two contending parties, who were on
the watch for information concerning the great controverted question of
the slave-trade, so that the utmost nicety and exactness were requisite
in stating the facts respecting it, which had fallen under his notice.
The long-expected work at length appeared in April 1799, in quarto, and
met with the greatest popularity. It was sought after with avidity, both
on account of the novelty and importance of the information comprised in
it, and the interesting manner in which the narrative was conducted. Two
large impressions were soon disposed of, and numerous smaller editions
and abridgments were from time to time called for. In a literary point of
view, the book is of rare merit; the style is clear, simple and direct;
and though the writer's personal adventures form the main topic, there is
no trace of ostentation or egotism. It bears all the marks of fidelity
and truthfulness, and has obtained the highest commendations from every
judge capable of forming an estimate of it.
The circumstance of a portion of Mr. Edwards' Narrative having been
incorporated into the Travels, and of Park's having acknowledged, in the
Preface, his obligations to that gentleman's revision, gave rise to an
unfounded report of his being the real author of the volume. This rumour,
however, has been long since rejected, both from the letters of Park,
published after Mr. Edwards' death, and also from the internal evidence
of the style, which presents a remarkable contrast to the elaborate and
ornate composition of Mr. Edwards' works.
There is another subject connected with the publication of his Travels,
which has excited too much discussion to permit us to pass it over in
silence; viz. his statements concerning the slave-trade. It has been
supposed, without any adequate ground, that Park's sentiments were
unfavourable to its abolition; but the strictly impartial nature and
neutral tone of his statements on this subject, were sufficiently proved
by the fact, that both parties confidently appealed to his pages, as
supporting their particular views. Besides, there is at least one passage
in the work which implies, that Park looked upon this iniquitous traffic
with no favourable eye; though he might not be convinced, upon the whole,
that the proper period had arrived for doing it away. And in justice to
his memory, it ought to be stated, that his nearest relatives and most
intimate friends had often heard him express himself strongly against the
system. All that the most scrutinizing reader can infer from these
passages, merely amounts to this, that some of the abolitionists, in
their generous zeal, might possibly have overrated the _immediate_ good
effect which the discontinuance of the practice would produce. Moreover,
it was no part of Park's business to enter upon a political or commercial
discussion on this subject, for his object was to give a clear and simple
account of his own observations, not to discuss other men's theories; and
both delicacy and propriety concurred in rendering such a course proper,
since Mr. Bryan Edwards, and some other members of the African
Association; to whose kind attention and patronage he owed so much, were
decided supporters of the slave-trade.
After the publication of his work, he at first seemed resolved to retire
into domestic and professional life; There had been an attachment of long
standing between him and a daughter of Mr. Anderson, with, whom he had
served his apprenticeship. The marriage had been settled the preceding
summer, and was only postponed till the publication of his Travels gave
him leisure for enjoying the pleasures of connubial happiness. If,
however, he had at any time formed the resolution of spending the
remainder of his days at home, his mind soon changed; for soon after, we
find him endeavouring, through various channels, to get his services
accepted, either by the Association, or by Government. He had frequent
communications with his steady friend, Sir Joseph Banks, upon this
subject; and no opportunity of qualifying himself still farther for such
an expedition was left unimproved. For two years he seemed not to have
fixed upon any determinate course of life; sometimes considering the
propriety of renting a form, and occasionally looking out for openings in
the medical profession. In the meantime, the profits derived from his
Travels secured him from want, and prevented him from proving burdensome
to his family. Unknown to them, he seems to have been employing every
means to get the master passion of his soul gratified; and he fondly
trusted that it would be shortly in his power to add to the discoveries
he had already made. He rejected a proposal made to him by Mr. Edwards,
to superintend his property in the West Indies, evidently cherishing the
hope of being again sent out by the African Association. About this time,
the capture of Goree seemed to open a communication with Central Africa,
and Park thought it a good opportunity for revisiting that country. He
wrote a letter to Sir Joseph Banks, expressing a confident hope of
success, provided the countenance of Government were obtained. His
proposal was not at that time accepted; and in a letter to Sir Joseph,
dated 31st July 1800, he thus writes,--"If such are the views of
Government, I hope that my exertions, in some station or other, may be of
use to my country. I have not yet found any situation in which I could
practise to advantage as a surgeon; and unless some of my friends
interest themselves in my behalf, I must wait patiently until the cloud
that hangs over my future prospects is dispelled." Evidently he could not
reconcile his taste either to farming, or to the dull and wearisome
drudgery of a country surgeon's life; in fact, he seemed altogether
discontented with his profession. But when he saw that his prospect of
employment by the Association was by no means certain, and might be long
deferred, he felt that, as an honest man, it was necessary to provide
some certain means of support for a wife and family. In October 1801, an
opening took place at Peebles, by the decease of one of the two regular
practitioners in that town: he settled there, and soon acquired a
practice which, if not particularly remunerating, was at least tolerably
extensive. He was surrounded by a pastoral, and, in some places,
uncultivated district; and had often to make long rides at night along
bad roads, to afford aid to those whose poverty did not allow them to
make any return for his skill and kindness. The rides of a country
surgeon, near an unfrequented district, are dreary and long; "he is at
the mercy of all who may demand his assistance within a circle of forty
miles in diameter, untraversed by roads in many directions, and including
moors, mountains, rivers, and lakes," generally for a very low
recompense, and sometimes for none at all.
Sir Walter Scott has so well described a country surgeon's miseries, that
we shall quote the passage, more especially as it bears particular
reference to Park:--"Like the ghostly lover of Leonora, he mounts at
midnight, and traverses in darkness paths which, to those less accustomed
to them, seem formidable in daylight, through straits where the slightest
aberration would plunge him into a morass, or throw him over a precipice,
on to cabins which his horse might ride over without knowing they lay in
his way, unless he happened to fall through the roofs. When he arrives at
such a stately termination of his journey, where his services are
required, either to bring a wretch into the world, or prevent one from
leaving it, the scene of misery is often such, that, far from touching
the hard saved shillings which are gratefully offered to him, he bestows
his medicines as well as his attendance--for charity. I have heard the
celebrated traveller Mungo Park, who had experienced both courses of
life, rather give the preference to travelling as a discoverer in Africa,
than to wandering, by night and day, the wilds of his native land in the
capacity of a country medical practitioner. He mentioned having once upon
a time rode forty miles, sat up all night, and successfully assisted a
woman under influence of the primitive curse, for which his sole
remuneration was a roasted potato and a draught of butter milk. But his
was not the heart which grudged the labour that relieved human misery. In
short, there is no creature in Scotland that works harder, and is more
poorly requited than the country doctor, unless, perhaps, it may be his
horse. Yet the horse is, and indeed must be, hardy, active, and
indefatigable, ever liable to be unpleasantly interrupted, in spite of a
rough coat and indifferent condition; and so you will often find in his
master, under an unpromising and blunt exterior, professional skill and
enthusiasm, intelligence humanity, courage, and science." Such was
certainly the character of Park: having himself experienced what it was
to suffer unrelieved, he was ready to sympathize with his suffering
fellow-creatures, and to endure every hardship and privation when
humanity called upon him to do so. But his liberality was a great enemy
to his purse, and for a considerable time, all he could do was barely
enough to earn a livelihood. Such difficulties every one, generally, who
enters upon this arduous profession must lay his account with. His
reputation as a discoverer, his modest and unassuming character, and the
propriety of his conduct, however, gained Park many friends, some of whom
were literary men of great eminence, such as Adam Ferguson and Dugald
Stewart. In addition to the honour of attracting the notice of men so
gifted in intellectual endowments, he was also on the best terms with
many of the neighbouring gentry,--among others, with Sir Walter Scott,
who had not then attained that high place among his contemporaries which
he afterwards held. He had also formed many acquaintances in a humbler
rank of life,--men of shrewdness and sagacity, in whose homely
conversation Park felt much pleasure. He enrolled himself a member of a
volunteer corps raised in the district, and proved a great acquisition to
the mess-table. One thing was remarkable about Park, that, go where he
would, he never introduced his own adventures, seldom ever answering
queries concerning them, unless when asked by intimate friends. He shewed
the true modesty of a brave man, in never reminding those around him that
he had overcome great perils and distresses. Yet those who knew him best,
describe him as always apparently cherishing a secret purpose in his
bosom. His mind, in fact, seems never to have been diverted from its
grand purpose; it was directed to the prospect of adding yet more claims
to the notice of posterity: hence, he could neither bring himself down
patiently to the ordinary routine of common-place life, nor take a great
interest in the feelings and pursuits of the society with which he
mingled. Often would his thoughts be wafted across the ocean to the
burning deserts of Africa, and directed to the prospect of tracing out
the windings of the mysterious Niger.
About this time, by the advice of Sir Joseph Banks, he became a candidate
for the Botanical Chair at Edinburgh, vacant by the decease of Dr.
Rutherford. In his efforts to obtain the appointment he failed. This
circumstance probably hastened his determination of again setting out for
Africa; and, in 1803, a favourable opportunity seemed to be afforded. He
received a letter from the Colonial Office, requiring his immediate
presence in London. He had an interview with Lord Hobart, then Colonial
Secretary, who informed him that it was the intention of Government to
organize an expedition for discovery in Africa, to be placed under his
superintendence. This proposal was exactly what Park wished; the subject,
in all its bearings, had been considered by him in almost hourly
meditations; he resolved inwardly to accept the proposal, but asked a
brief space to consult his family and friends. He returned immediately to
Scotland, and again journeying to London, at once closed with the offer,
and proceeded to make his preparations, expecting in a few weeks to set
sail for Africa. But the usual delays of office took place, and the
expedition was only announced to sail from Portsmouth about the end of
February. Before that period arrived, the impatient traveller was
mortified to find that the important political changes which were then in
agitation would at least defer, if not altogether destroy his projects.
This blow was the more severe, as the stores and troops had been already
embarked.
Mr. Pitt was made First Commissioner of the Treasury, and Chancellor of
the Exchequer in May. When the commotion caused by this change had
subsided a little, Government was able to direct its attention to
subjects less immediately pressing, and among the rest, to African
discovery. Park received an intimation from the Colonial Office, that the
intention of sending out an expedition had by no means been lost sight
of; and, in the meantime, he was advised to direct his particular
attention to those branches of knowledge which might facilitate the
undertaking, with the understanding that all necessary expenses would be
defrayed. The earliest period at which he could possibly set out was
September, and he determined diligently to improve the interval. He
chiefly directed his attention to the method of taking astronomical
observations, and to the study of the Arabic language. For the latter
purpose, he engaged a native of Mogadore, Sidi Omback Boubi, who then
resided in London, and had served as the interpreter to Elphi Bey, the
Mameluke ambassador from Cairo, to accompany him to Scotland. Park and
his oriental companion arrived at Peebles in March, and resided there
till about the middle of May; he then removed to Fowlshiels, where he
remained till the expected summons from the Secretary of State should
reach him. Sidi Omback appeared quite a phenomenon to the inhabitants of
Peebles. He was a firm adherent of the Mahometan faith, and scrupulous to
an excess; observing rigidly the Prophet's prohibitions respecting wine
and spirits, and eating no meat which had not been killed by his own
hand. The method in which he performed this operation was somewhat
peculiar:--having stalked solemnly into the market, and pitched upon his
animal, he turned its head towards the east, muttered over it a short
prayer, and then cut off its head, rejecting the blood as unclean. He had
the greatest aversion to prints and paintings, and nearly stabbed a young
man who was bold enough to take a sketch of his peculiar visage. He
punctually performed his devotions according to the fashion of his own
country, and professed to be a great interpreter of dreams and omens. In
one instance, he proved a true prophet, for he said more than once, that
if Park went a second time to Africa, he would never return; and though
urgently requested by Park to join the expedition, he refused.
When Sir Walter Scott first became acquainted with Park, he was living in
seclusion at the farm of Fowlshiels, nearly opposite Newark Castle. They
soon became much attached to each other; and Scott supplied some
interesting anecdotes of their brief intercourse to the late Mr. Wishaw,
the editor of Park's posthumous Journal, with which, says Mr. Lockhart, I
shall blend a few minor circumstances which I gathered from him in
conversation long afterwards. "On one occasion," he says, "the traveller
communicated to him some very remarkable adventures which had befallen
him in Africa, but which he had not recorded in his book." On Scott's
asking the cause of this silence, Mungo answered, "That in all cases
where he had information to communicate which he thought of importance to
the public, he had stated the facts boldly, leaving it to his readers to
give such credit to his statements as they might appear justly to
deserve; but that he would not shock their faith, or render his travels
more marvellous, by introducing circumstances which, however true, were
of little or no moment, as they related solely to his own personal
adventures and escapes," This reply struck Scott as highly characteristic
of the man; and though strongly tempted to set down some of these marvels
for Mr. Wishaw's use, he, on reflection, abstained from doing so, holding
it unfair to record what the adventurer had deliberately chosen to
suppress in his own narrative. He confirms the account given by Park's
biographer of his cold and reserved manners to strangers, and in
particular, of his disgust with the _indirect_ questions which curious
visitors would often put to him upon the subject of his travels. "This
practice," said Mungo, "exposes me to two risks,--either that I may not
understand the questions meant to be put, or that my answers to them may
be misconstrued;" and he contrasted such conduct with the frankness of
Scott's revered friend, Dr. Adam Ferguson, who, the very first day the
traveller dined with him at Hallyards, spread a large map of Africa on
the table, and made him trace out his progress thereupon, inch by inch,
questioning him minutely as to every step he had taken. "Here, however,"
says Scott, "Dr. F. was using a privilege to which he was well entitled
by his venerable age and high literary character, but which could not
have been exercised with propriety by any common stranger."
Calling one day at Fowlshiels, and not finding Park at home, Scott walked
in search of him along the banks of the Yarrow, which in that
neighbourhood passes over various ledges of rock, forming deep pools and
eddies between them. Presently he discovered his friend standing alone on
the bank, plunging one stone after another into the water, and watching
anxiously the bubbles as they rose to the surface. "This," said Scott,
"appears but an idle amusement for one who has seen so much stirring
adventure." "Not so idle, perhaps, as you suppose," answered Mungo. "This
was the manner in which I used to ascertain the depth of a river in
Africa before I ventured to cross it, judging whether the attempt would
be safe by the time the bubbles of air took to ascend." At this time,
Park's intention of a second expedition had never been revealed to Scott,
but he instantly formed the opinion that these experiments on Yarrow were
connected with some such purpose.
His thoughts had always continued to be haunted with Africa. He told
Scott, that whenever he awoke suddenly in the night, owing to a nervous
disorder with which he was troubled, he fancied himself still a prisoner
in the tent of Ali; but when the Poet expressed some surprise that he
should design again to revisit those scenes, he answered, that he would
rather brave Africa and all its horrors, than wear out his life in long
and toilsome rides over the hills of Scotland, for which the remuneration
was hardly enough to keep soul and body together.
Towards the end of autumn, when about to quit his country for the last
time, Park paid Scott a farewell visit, and slept at Ashestiel. Next
morning his host accompanied him homewards over the wild chain of hills
between the Tweed and the Yarrow. Park talked much of the new scheme, and
mentioned his determination to tell his family that he had some business
for a day or two in Edinburgh, and send them his blessing from thence,
without returning to take leave. He had married, not long before, a
pretty, amiable woman; and when they reached the _William Hope Ridge_,
"the autumnal mist floating heavily and slowly down the valley of the
Yarrow," presented to Scott's imagination "a striking emblem of the
troubled and uncertain prospect which his undertaking afforded." He
remained, however, unshaken; and at length they reached the spot at which
they had agreed to separate. A small ditch divided the moor from the
road, and, in going over it, Park's horse stumbled, and nearly fell. "I
am afraid, Mungo," said the Sheriff, "that is a bad omen." To which he
answered, smiling, "_Freits_ (omens) follow those who look to them." With
this expression Mungo struck the spurs into his horse, and Scott never
saw him again. His parting proverb, by the way, was probably suggested by
one of the Border ballads, in which species of lore he was almost as
great a proficient as the Sheriff himself; for we read in "Edom o'
Gordon,"--"Them look to freits, my master dear. Then freits will follow
them."[26]
[26] Lockhart's Life of Scott, Vol. II.
In the beginning of September, Park received the summons from the
Colonial Office, and had a satisfactory interview with Lord Camden. He
had previously, at Lord Camden's request, given in to him a memorial,
comprising a statement of his views concerning the objects of the
expedition, the means which he would require for his purpose, and the
manner in which the plans of Government were to be carried into
execution. The object of his journey. Park stated to be the extension of
British commerce, and the enlargement of geographical knowledge;
particular attention was to be paid to the state of the interior, the
course of the Niger, and the character and situation of the towns upon
its banks. The means Park requested were thirty European soldiers, six
carpenters, fifteen or twenty Goree negroes, fifty asses, and six horses
or mules. Each man was to be provided with gun, pistols, and suitable
clothing. He gave in also a list of other articles which he required,
comprising harness and equipments for the asses, carpenters tools, and
cordage, with other stores, for building two boats of forty feet length,
to sail down the Niger, and a number of articles of commerce to procure
supplies from the natives, and for presents to their chiefs, such as
coloured cloth, amber, gold, and glass beads, arms and ammunition,
mirrors, knives, scissors, &c. Park's proposed route was to proceed up
the Gambia, cross the country to the Niger, when they were to sail down
the river till they came to its termination. If, as Park supposed, in
place of being lost, according to Major Rennel's theory, in some
imaginary lake called Margara, it took a southerly direction, and might
prove to be the river Congo; it was his intention to embark on board some
slave-ship, and return, either by the way of St. Helena or the West
Indies. Major Rennel earnestly advised Park against the expedition, but
without success, and indeed, upon the Major's theory, the plan was
utterly impracticable. Some have censured Park for going on an
expedition, which at the outset was pronounced to be hopeless; and these
"prophets of evil" claimed abundant credit for their sagacity. But Park
had made up his mind, and was not to be turned aside from his purpose.
Fatally confident, as the event proved, in his own resources, he was not
to be daunted by the formidable array of difficulties which he must have
well known he would have to face; and though somewhat disheartened for a
time by these representations, he was consoled by the approbation of Sir
Joseph Banks, and other scientific men.
Orders were now given for the completion of the arrangements; but
vexations and fatal delays again occurred, which contributed most
materially to diminish the chances of the success of the expedition. It
was now impossible that they could be landed in Africa before the rainy
season had commenced; and it was only after three months impatient
waiting that Park got these final instructions:--
"_Downing Street, 2d January_ 1805.
"SIR,--It being judged expedient that a small expedition should be sent
into the interior of Africa, with a view to discover and ascertain
whether any, and what commercial intercourse can be opened therein, for
the mutual benefit of the natives and of his Majesty's subjects, I am
commanded by the King to acquaint you, that on account of the knowledge
you have acquired of the nations of Africa, and from the indefatigable
exertions and perseverance you displayed in your travels among them, his
Majesty has selected you for conducting this undertaking.
"For the better enabling you to execute this service, his Majesty has
granted you the brevet commission of a Captain in Africa, and has also
granted a similar commission of Lieutenant to Mr. Alexander Anderson,
whom you have recommended as a proper person to accompany you. Mr. Scott
has also been selected to attend you as a draftsman. You are hereby
empowered to enlist with you, for this expedition, any number you think
proper of the garrison at Goree, not exceeding forty-five, which the
Commandant of that island will be ordered to place under your command,
giving them such bounties or encouragement as may be necessary to induce
them cheerfully to join with you on the expedition.
"And you are hereby authorised to engage, by purchase or otherwise, such
a number of black artificers at Goree as you shall judge necessary for
the objects you have in view.
"You are to be conveyed to Goree in a transport, convoyed by his
Majesty's sloop Eugenie, which will be directed to proceed with you, in
the first instance, to St. Jago, in order that you may there purchase
fifty asses for carrying your baggage.
"When you shall have prepared whatever may be necessary for securing the
objects of your expedition at Goree, you are to proceed up the river
Gambia, and thence crossing over to the Senegal, to march, by such route
as you shall find most eligible, to the banks of the Niger.
"The great object of your journey will be to pursue the course of this
river to the utmost possible distance to which it can be traced,--to
establish communication and intercourse with the different nations on the
banks,--to obtain all the local knowledge in your power respecting
them,--and to ascertain the various points stated in the memoir which you
delivered to me on the 4th of October last.
"And you will be then at liberty to pursue your route homewards by any
line you shall think most secure, either by taking a new direction
through the interior towards the Atlantic, or by marching upon Cairo, by
taking the route leading to Tripoli.
"You are hereby empowered to draw for any sum that you may be in want of,
not exceeding £5000, upon the Lords of his Majesty's Treasury, or upon
such a mercantile banking-house in London as you may fix upon. I am, &c.
"(Signed) CAMDEN.
"_To Mungo Park, Esq. &c. &c. &c._"
Before Park departed, Government had generously resolved, that, in
addition to a handsome reward for his own services, the sum of £4000
should be settled upon his wife and family, in the event of his death or
non-appearance after a certain stipulated time. Nothing, therefore,
remained but that he should finally settle his affairs, and take an
affectionate farewell of his friends, who bade adieu to him with a heavy
heart, fearing that they would never see his face again.
CHAPTER XXIX.
_Park's Second Journey--The Gambia to Bambakoo._
On the 30th January 1805, Park, accompanied by Mr. Anderson, his
brother-in-law, who was to be second in command of the expedition, and
Mr. Scott, a friend and neighbour, who went as draftsman, together with
four or five artificers from the dockyards, set sail from Portsmouth in
the Crescent transport, and reached Port Prayo Bay in St. Jago on the 8th
March, after a very stormy passage. Having purchased forty-four asses,
they left this place on the 21st March, and having made the coast of
Africa on the 25th, anchored in Goree Roads. From the garrison at this
place Park had been instructed to select a limited party of soldiers--an
arrangement which proved by no means favourable to the success of the
expedition, as many of the men were of intemperate habits, and, through
their long residence at Goree, most of them were much debilitated by the
climate. Park fixed upon thirty-five, who seemed the strongest men of the
garrison, to accompany him; and one of their officers, Lieutenant Martyn,
also volunteered. Two experienced seamen, by permission of Captain
Shortland of the Squirrel frigate, were also to go with him, as their
assistance would prove most useful in equipping' the boats for sailing
down the Niger. Before they left Goree, Park wrote the following letter
to his wife:--
"_Goree, 4th April_ 1805.
"I have just now learnt that an American ship sails from this place for
England in a day or two, and I readily embrace the opportunity of sending
a letter to my dear wife. We have all of us kept our health very well
ever since our departure from England, Alexander had a touch of the
rheumatism at St. Jago, but is now quite recovered. He danced several
country dances at the ball last night. George Scott is also in good
health and spirits. I wrote to you from St. Jago, which letter I hope you
received. We left that place on the 21st of March, and arrived here with
the asses on the 28th. Almost every soldier in the garrison volunteered
to go with me; and, with the Governor's assistance, I have chosen a guard
of the best men in the place. So lightly do the people here think of the
danger attending the undertaking, that I have been under the necessity of
refusing several military and naval officers who volunteered to accompany
me. We shall sail for Gambia on Friday or Saturday, I am happy to learn
that Karfa, my old friend, is at present at Jonkakonda; and I am in hopes
we shall be able to hire him to go with us.
"We have as yet been extremely fortunate, and have got our business, both
at St. Jago and this place, finished with great success; and I have
hopes, almost to certainty, that Providence will so dispose the tempers
and passions of the inhabitants of this quarter of the world, that we
shall be enabled to _slide through_ much more smoothly than you expect.
"I need not tell you how often I think about you; your own feelings will
enable you to judge of that. The hopes of spending the remainder of my
life with my wife and children, will make everything seem easy; and you
may be sure I will not rashly risk my life, when I know that your
happiness, and the welfare of my young ones, depend so much upon it. I
hope my mother does not torment herself with unnecessary tears about me.
I sometimes fancy how you and she will be meeting misfortune half-way,
and placing me in many distressing situations. I have as yet experienced
nothing but success, and I hope that six months more will end the whole
as I wish.
"_P.S._--We have taken a ride this morning about twelve miles into the
country. Alexander is much pleased with it. The heat is moderate, and the
country healthy at present."
In a letter to the Colonial Office, written at the same time as the
above, he gives the following account of his departure from Goree:--"On
the morning of the 6th of April, we embarked the soldiers, in number
thirty-five men. They jumped into the boat in the highest spirits, and
bade adieu to Goree with repeated huzzas. I believe that every man in the
garrison would have embarked with great cheerfulness; but no inducement
could prevail on a single negro to accompany me. I must therefore trust
to the Gambia for interpreters, and I expect to be able to hire or
purchase three or four in going up the river." On the 9th April they
reached Jillifree on the Gambia, and in a few days got up the river to
Kayee. Thence Park wrote several letters to his friends, among which was
the following, addressed to his wife.--
"_Kayee, River Gambia, 26th April_ 1805.
"I have been busy these three days in making preparations for our
journey, and I feel rather uneasy when I think that I can receive no
letters from you till I return to England; but you may depend on this,
that I will avail myself of every opportunity of writing to you, though
from the very nature of the undertaking these opportunities will be but
few. We set off for the interior to-morrow morning, and I assure you,
that whatever the issue of the present journey may be, every thing looks
favourable. We have been successful thus far, beyond my highest
expectations.
"The natives, instead of being frightened at us, look on us as their best
friends, and the kings have not only granted us protection, but sent
people to go before us. The soldiers are in the highest spirits, and as
many of them (like me) have left a wife and family in England, they are
happy to embrace this opportunity of returning. They never think about
difficulties; and I am confident, if there was occasion for it, that they
would defeat any number of negroes that might come against us; but of
this we have not the most distant expectation. The king of Kataba (the
most powerful king in Gambia) visited us on board the Crescent on the
20th and 21st; he has furnished us with a messenger to conduct us safely
to the king of Wooli.
"I expect to have an opportunity of writing to you from Konkodoo or
Bammakoo, by some of the slavetraders; but as they travel very slowly, I
may probably have returned to the coast before any of my letters have
reached Goree; at any rate, you need not be surprised if you should not
hear from me for some months; nay, so uncertain is the communication
between Africa and England, that perhaps the next news you may hear may
be my arrival in the latter, which I still think will be in the month of
December. If we have to go round by the West Indies, it will take us two
months more; but as Government has given me an unlimited credit, if a
vessel is coming direct, I shall of course take a passage in her. I have
enjoyed excellent health, and have great hopes to bring this expedition
to a happy conclusion. In five weeks from the date of this letter, the
worst part of the journey will be over. Kiss all my dear children for me,
and let them know that their father loves them."
In a letter of the same date, Park thus expresses himself with great
confidence as to his prospects of success: "Every thing at present looks
as favourable as I could wish, and if all things go well, this day six
weeks I expect to drink all your healths in the water of the Niger. The
soldiers are in good health and spirits. They are the most _dashing_ men
I ever saw; and if they preserve their health, we may keep ourselves
perfectly secure from any hostile attempt on the part of the natives. I
have little doubt but that I shall be able, with presents and fair words,
to pass through the country to the Niger: and if once we are fairly
afloat, _the day is won_. Give my kind regards to Sir Joseph and Mr.
Greville; and if they should think I have paid too little attention to
natural objects, you may mention that I had forty men and forty-two asses
to look after, besides the constant trouble of packing and weighing
bundles, palavering with the negroes, and laying plans for our future
success. I never was so busy in my life."
His letter to his father-in-law apparently shews the same confidence in
the prospects of the expedition:--
"_Kayee, River Gambia, 26th April_ 1806.
"That I have not wrote you sooner, you may be sure was not from want of
attention, but from want of time, and because I knew that you must have
received every information respecting our procedure from Alexander. I
know that you will rejoice to hear that we both of us keep our health,
and that the kind hand of Providence has thus far made our journey
prosperous. We set off to-morrow morning for the interior, with the most
flattering prospect of finishing our expedition in the course of six
months, with honour to ourselves, and benefit to mankind. I need not tell
you how solicitous I am about the welfare of my dear Allie and children.
Though I have no hopes of my hearing from her till my return to England,
yet I will indulge the hope that all is well. In case it should please
the Almighty to take me to himself, I have thought it necessary to give a
statement of the money matters in the enclosed letter, that my dear wife
and children may reap the reward of my industry. I did not do this from
any second sight, but merely to guard against a possible occurrence. I am
far from being in the least down-hearted: indeed I have so much to attend
to, that I have little time to myself. I receive great benefit from
Alexander, who is as systematic, cautious and careful as ever. I
sometimes think he has forgot his old maxim 'Take it easy.' I can easily
imagine how little Ibe[27] will be stotting about the house and garden.
Tell her if she can say her questions[28] well, I will bring her two new
frocks. My compliments to Mrs. Anderson, George, Thomas, and Bell. I
suppose Andrew will be in the army by this time. When we return to the
coast, if we are lucky enough to find a vessel coming directly to
England, I think we may be in England by the month of December, but if we
have to go round by the West Indies, it will take us two months longer.
With best wishes for your health and prosperity, I am,
"Your affectionate friend,
"MUNGO PARK.
"_To Mr. Thomas Anderson, Surgeon, Selkirk, North Britain._"
[27] Elizabeth, his infant daughter.
[28] The Catechism.
In spite of all the confidence which these letters express, Park was so
well aware of the extreme danger of the expedition that his mind must
have been filled with the most harassing and anxious thoughts. We have
already said, that the soldiers who accompanied him were below the
ordinary standard even of African troops. Their constitutions were worn
out by the climate, and by debauchery; and they seem to have been utter
strangers to sobriety and good discipline. But Park had a still more
serious cause of alarm arising from the repeated delays which had taken
place before the expedition was sent out, which rendered it scarcely
possible for them to reach the Niger before the rainy season set in.
There was besides, the positive certainty of encountering the great
tropical heats and tornadoes, which invariably precede and follow that
time, and prove a source of the greatest inconvenience, and sometimes
even of danger, to caravans. There were just two courses before him: he
might go forward upon the journey at all hazards, straining every nerve
to reach the Niger before the rainy season came on in full violence; or
he might wait till the middle of November, the proper period for
travelling. The latter alternative was one which his ardent spirit could
ill brook; and even could he himself have submitted to this penance, the
spending so many months in idleness and inactivity might excite the
severe displeasure of his employers. He had no reason to suppose that
they had calculated upon this great additional expense. He considered
moreover that such a contingency had not been provided for in his
instructions. The eyes of his countrymen anxiously watched his
progress--delay might be visited with severe censures. Accordingly, he
unhappily departed from the course which prudence would have pointed out,
and adopted the alternative most agreeable to his own feelings. Having
once formed his plan, he adhered to it with vigour and perseverance,
resolutely facing every obstacle, and resolved to fulfil the object of
his mission, or perish in the attempt. Whatever might be his own
misgivings and apprehensions, he concealed them from his comrades,
resolved that no disclosure of them should damp their confidence, or
weaken their efforts.
At Kayee, Isaaco, a Mandingo priest and travelling merchant, who had had
great experience in inland travelling, was engaged to accompany the
expedition as guide. On the 27th April 1805 they left Kayee, under a
salute from the guns of the _Crescent_. They suffered great inconvenience
from the extreme heat of the weather, and the difficulty of bringing the
asses forward, most of them having been unaccustomed to heavy burdens. On
the evening of the following day they came to Pisania, Park's starting
point on his first journey, where those of his former friends, who still
resided there, were not a little astonished to see him again. He stayed
at this place for a week to complete his preparations, part of the
baggage having to arrive by water, and some of the beasts of burden,
being useless, requiring to be replaced by others. The burdens having
been equally divided among the party, and every thing ready, they set out
from Pisania, accompanied for a mile or two by most of the principal
inhabitants of the place, who were anxious to confer this honour upon the
travellers. They set out in regular order of march: Mr. Scott and one of
Isaaco's attendants in front, Lieutenant Martyn in the centre, and Mr.
Anderson and Park bringing up the rear. But their progress was slow, for
some of the asses were overloaded, and others were restive and threw off
their burdens, so that they had soon to purchase an additional number. On
the 10th May they arrived at Fatteconda, where the son of Park's friend,
the former king of Wooli, met him, from whom he learnt that his journey
was looked upon with great jealousy by some of the influential
inhabitants residing about Madina. At noon, they reached the capital of
Wooli. The asses were unloaded under a tree, without the gates of the
town. It was five o'clock before Park obtained an audience of the king,
to whom he carried as presents, a pair of silver-mounted pistols, ten
dollars, some amber and coral; but his Majesty being covetous, and
considering it beneath his dignity to receive so little, Park was obliged
to add fifteen dollars more, and double the quantity of coral and amber.
The king also begged a blanket to shield his royal person from the rains,
which was sent to him. This was only a sample of the numerous extortions
to which they were exposed; and as the natives annoyed them much,
conceiving that they carried merchandise of great value, the utmost
vigilance was necessary to guard against their sly pilferings, as well as
the more violent attempts of the numerous bands of robbers who infested
the neighbourhood. They reached Kanipe, a straggling village, on the 13th
of May. Here the women had fallen upon an ingenious plan to extort amber
and beads. After many hours labour, they had drawn up all the water from
the wells and carried it away. They were fairly baffled, however, by the
travellers; for in the evening, one of the soldiers having, as if by
accident, dropped his canteen into the well, he was lowered down by a
rope to pick it up; and standing at the bottom of the well, filled all
the camp-kettles of the party, so that the women had to depart in grief
and mortification.
After having passed through Kussai, the country was wooded for five
miles, when the travellers reached a level plain almost destitute of
shade, along which some hundreds of antelopes, of a dark colour, and
nearly as large as bullocks, were bounding. At half-past ten they again
came to the banks of the Gambia, and halted, during the heat of the day,
under a large spreading tree. The river was here one hundred yards
across, its waters swarming with crocodiles; and, contrary to Park's
expectations, he found that it had a regular tide, rising four inches by
the shore. Here Park ascended a hill, which commanded a wide prospect of
the course of the Gambia, distinguished by a range of dark green trees,
which fringed its banks. At this place the first disaster of the
expedition occurred. John Walters, one of the soldiers, fell down in an
epileptic fit, and soon after died. They lay down to rest, apprehensive
of an attack from the natives, each man sleeping with his loaded musket
under his head.
For some days they travelled on a line with the banks of the river; they
then crossed the river Nerico, and on the 20th May, came to Bady, in the
territory of Tenda. The chief of that place behaved with great audacity
and violence; and some of his people having carried off the guide's
horse, and Isaaco demanding it in person, he was seized, flogged, and
detained as a prisoner. His disconsolate wife and child sat, in tears,
under a tree. It would, indeed, have been an easy matter for Park and his
companions to have set fire to the town in resentment for this ill usage,
but this would have brought destruction on the innocent, and might not
have produced the desired effect of the restoration of Isaaco. But they
determined next morning, should other means prove ineffectual, to employ
force. Early in the morning, however, Isaaco was sent back by the chief,
with the lame apology that he had no desire to quarrel with Park, and
merely wished the customary tribute to be paid him.
They went on, nearly along the same way by which Park had returned in
1797, and, having traversed the wilderness of Samarkara, came to a place
which they called Bee's Creek, from a singular accident which befel them
there. No sooner had they unsaddled their asses, and kindled a fire to
cook their supper, than an immense swarm of bees attacked both men and
asses so violently, that they took to flight precipitately in all
directions; while the burning embers set fire to some bamboos, and nearly
consumed the baggage. They, however, succeeded in snatching it up before
the flames reached it; but by this untoward accident, they lost six asses
and one horse, and most of the party were severely stung about the face
and hands.
On the 28th May, Park came to Bamboo, where he was compelled to disburse
presents to a large amount. Thence he sent two letters to England, by the
way of Gambia,--one addressed to his wife, and the other to Sir Joseph
Banks. To the former, he gave a brief account of his journey, and then
adds, "You must not imagine, my dear friend, from this hasty sketch, that
I have neglected astronomical observations. I have observed the latitude
every two or three days, and have observed three eclipses of Jupiter's
satellites, which settle the longitude, by the help of the watch, to the
nearest mile. I find that my former journeys by foot were underrated;
some of them surprise myself when I trace the same road on horseback. I
expect to reach the Niger by the 27th of June."
He thus writes to Mrs. Park,--"I am happy to inform you that we are half
through our journey without the smallest accident or unpleasant
circumstance. We all of us keep our health, and are on the most friendly
terms with the natives. I have seen many of my old acquaintances, and am
everywhere well received. By the 27th of June, we expect to have finished
all our travels by land; and when we have once got afloat on the river,
we shall conclude that we are embarking for England. I have never had the
smallest sickness, and Alexander (Mrs. Park's brother) is quite free from
all his stomach complaints. In fact, we have only had a pleasant journey,
and yet this is what we thought would be the worst part of it. I will
indulge the hope that my wife, children, and all friends are well. I am
in great hopes of finishing this journey with credit in a few months; and
then with what joy shall I turn my face towards home!" From these
extracts, it would seem that Park still entertained the prospect of
ultimate success. His situation appeared difficult, but not desperate. He
had now traversed what he believed would be the most arduous part of his
route, with the loss of only one of his party; and hoped that, by dint of
strenuous exertion, the greater part of the distance which lay between
him and the Niger might possibly be gone over before the rainy season set
in. But the sad realities of suffering and death were soon to break in on
his dreams of success.
They had now arrived at Julifunda, the chief of which place extorted from
Park goods to the value of two hundred bars, before he would suffer the
party to proceed. The next day, being his Majesty's birthday, Park
halted, pitched one of the tents, and purchased a bullock and a calf for
the soldiers, who were drawn up in the afternoon, and fired a salute.
They made this as much a day of festivity as circumstances would admit
of, though they were under the necessity of drinking the king's health in
_water_, in the absence of any more stimulating and genial fluid. At
Baniserile, a Mahometan town, they met with a most hospitable reception
from the chief man, Fodi Braheima, to whom Park presented a copy of the
New Testament, in Arabic. On the 6th June, one of the carpenters, who had
been sick of the dysentery ever since they had crossed the Nerico, became
very ill. On the 7th the sick man was so ill that he had to be mounted on
an ass, which was driven forward by two soldiers; next day he threw
himself from the beast, and expressed a wish to be left alone to die, and
could only be held on by force. About noon they arrived at Medina, and
halted upon the banks of the Falemé, which the rain had discoloured, but
little increased in volume. At this place it ran over rocks, at the rate
of about four miles the hour. It abounded with fish of a great size. In
the afternoon the soldiers were quite worn out with carrying the baggage
across the river, and up the steep bank. The carpenter being in a dying
state was left with the Dooty, to whom Park gave ten bars, and also
directed a soldier to remain with him. Next morning the soldier came up
to the party at Sadadoo, and told them that the carpenter had died during
the night, and that he, with the assistance of some negroes, had buried
him. On the 9th, five of the soldiers, who had not gone into the tent,
but had remained during the rain under a tree, complained much of
headache and sickness. During the night some of the canteens had been
stolen. They left Sadadoo at sunrise, journeying over a hard rocky soil,
towards the mountains, and the advanced party reached Shrondo at sunset;
but Park did not come up to the place till eight o'clock, having mounted
one of the sick men on his horse, and assisted in driving in the wearied
asses, four of which he was compelled to leave in the woods. Here they
were overtaken by a dreadful tornado, which drenched them completely:
this proved to them indeed the "_beginning of sorrows._" Its dreadful
effects were immediately manifested in the sickness of the soldiers, many
of whom were, before the rain had fallen three minutes, seized with
vomiting; while others fell asleep, and looked as if they had been half
intoxicated. Next morning twelve of the party were sick. Before this Park
had fondly hoped that he would reach the Niger, with a moderate loss; but
now, for the first time, do we find stated in his journal, a feeling of
distrust and apprehension: "The rain," he says, "had set in, and I
trembled to think that we were only half way through, our journey." From
that period the horrors of fatal disease were superadded to those of
toilsome and dangerous journey. Many of the beasts of burden sank down or
strayed, so that an additional load had to be put upon those that
remained. The track was intersected by frequent torrents, and the sick
had to be placed upon the horses and spare asses; those whose strength
disease had not yet wasted, were worn out in endeavouring to urge on the
staggering beasts. Their footsteps were tracked by plunderers, who
watched every opportunity of pilfering. The sick soldiers would throw
themselves at the foot of a tree, declaring that they were content to
perish; even had they been suffered to remain, a quiet death could not
have been expected, as the beasts of prey were prowling about, and their
feverish rest at night was often broken by their distant howling. In the
midst of all this complication of difficulties, it is impossible not to
be struck with the nobleness of Park's conduct, facing boldly
difficulties however arduous, and endearing himself to his men by the
greatest attention and kindness,--himself enduring toil that they might
have rest, lingering behind the party to help on some exhausted soldier,
or mounting him upon his own horse, comforting the desponding, and in
their last hour consoling and soothing the dying.
The party rested a day at Shrondo, but the distressing circumstances in
which they were involved did not prevent Park from visiting the gold
mines in the neighbourhood, and he gives in his journal a curious account
of the method in which the gold is obtained. He was guided by a woman to
a meadow where there were dug about thirty pits. Beside these lay heaps
of sand and gravel, to be conveyed to circular wash-pits, which were
lined with clay. Two calabashes are used, one large, into which the
gravel is put; the other small, with which the water is poured in. The
sand is then covered with the water, carefully crumbled down and shaken
in the calabash, and the lighter parts thrown out, till all that remains
is a black substance, called gold-rust. The shaking is then repeated, and
the grains of gold are sought out. Two pounds of gravel yield about
twenty-three particles of gold, some of which are very small; and the
bulk of gold-rust is about forty times that of the gold. The washing only
takes place at the time of the rains.
They next proceeded along the mountains of Konkodoo to Dindikoo, where
they saw a number of gold-pits, sunk about twelve feet deep, with notches
in the sides for steps. The mountains were lofty and steep, composed of a
coarse species of red granite, but cultivated to the very tops, and the
villages built in their glens were singularly romantic. "The
inhabitants," says Park, "have plenty of water, and grass at all seasons;
they have cattle enough for their own use, and their superfluous grain
purchases all their little luxuries; and while the thunder rolls in awful
grandeur over their heads, they can look from their tremendous precipices
over all that wild and woody plain, which extends from the Falemé to the
Black River." This plain was about forty miles in extent; the lions
abounded in the plain, but none were seen among the hills. On the 18th
they had great difficulty in getting the sick forward, though all the
spare horses and asses were reserved for their use. The ass which bore
the telescope and several other articles of consequence was missing; but
was brought on the following day by one of the natives who had caught it.
Park now began to be "very uneasy about their situation;" half of the
party were on the sick list, among whom were Messrs. Anderson and Scott,
and he himself was by no means well. They rested for one day at Fankia.
On the 15th their road lay along a steep and rocky pass in the mountains
of Tambaura. During this toilsome march they were in a state of dreadful
confusion. There were few drivers for the asses, which were overburdened
with the sick and baggage. The natives, seeing their weak state, followed
them, seizing every opportunity for pillage. At Serimanna, two of the men
were left behind. At Gambia, the natives having heard that the white men
were sickly, rose up in arms, and attempted to plunder the caravan. One
seized the Serjeant's horse, but on a pistol being presented, quitted his
hold. Others tried to drive away the asses with their loads. But the
soldiers stood firm, loaded their pieces with ball, and fixed bayonets;
upon which the natives hesitated, and the soldiers having placed the
asses in safety on the other side of a rivulet, returned. Park then
demanded of the Dooty that he should be suffered to proceed in peace. To
this after a little he consented, in consequence of the determined front
shown by the British, and to avoid farther molestation, Park deemed it
prudent to present him with four bars of amber. Near Sullo, the eyes of
the jaded and weary travellers were a little revived by the
picturesqueness of the scenery, which presented all the possible
diversities of rock, towering up like ruined castles, spires, and
pyramids. One place bore a very striking resemblance to a ruined Gothic
abbey,--the niches, windows, and staircase, having all counterparts in
the natural rock. Mr. Park describes the banks of the Ba-Fing and Ba-Lee,
two tributaries of the Senegal, to be rugged and grand beyond any thing
he had seen.
In crossing the Ba-Fing the canoe was upset, with three men in it, one of
whom was drowned. Park's efforts to restore animation were unavailing,
and he was buried on the banks of the river. The people on the banks were
a set of thieves, and endeavoured to make off with the medicine-chest.
Not a day now passed but one or other of the soldiers died of fever, or
was left behind. At Koeena, on the 2d July, they were much annoyed by
three lions, which, after prowling about all day, at midnight attacked
the asses, which broke their ropes, and rushed in among the tents. One of
the lions approached so near that the sentry made a cut at it with his
sword. They could not sleep, because of the noise of the hippopotami
which infested that part of the river. At this time several of the
soldiers strayed, and never came up with the party again, though muskets
were frequently fired to give intimation of the route. Next day one of
the soldiers became so exhausted that he could not sit upon the ass. He
was fastened on it, and held upright; he became more and more faint, and
shortly after died. His body was brought forward to a place where the
front of the coffle had halted to allow the rear to come up. "Here," says
Park, "when the coffle had set forwards, two of the soldiers with their
bayonets, and myself with my sword, dug his grave in the wild desert, and
a few branches were the only laurels that covered the tomb of the brave."
When Park came up to the halting-place, which was near a pool of water,
shaded with ground palm-trees, he found that two more of the soldiers
were missing. Lights were set up, partly to scare away the lions and also
to guide those who had not come up; and Park himself went back a
considerable part of the way in search of them, but only one came up,
who, next day, lagged behind through fatigue. Search was then made for
him, but he could not be found; and they supposed that he had been
devoured by the wild beasts.
On the 4th July they crossed the river Wonda; but as they had only one
canoe, the passage was both dangerous and tedious. Isaaco, the guide,
exerted himself much, endeavouring to drive six of the asses through a
little below where the party crossed, as the stream was there not so
deep. He had reached the middle of the river, when a crocodile rose,
seized him by the left thigh, and dragged him under water. With wonderful
presence of mind, however, he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his
finger into its eye. The monster quitted its hold for a moment, but then
seized his other thigh, and again pulled him under water. Isaaco again
thrust his fingers into its eyes. This proved effectual. The crocodile
rose to the surface, dashed about a while as if stupified, and then swam
down the middle of the river. Isaaco landed on the other side, bleeding
copiously. He was so much lacerated as for a time to be unfit for
travelling; and as his guidance was indispensable to the party, they
waited four days, to give his wounds time to heal.
On the 11th July they came to Keminoom, the strongest fortified town Park
had seen in Africa,--whence they were very desirous to depart, as they
found the inhabitants to be "thieves to a man," committing depredations
upon the travellers with the greatest coolness and impudence, in which
the King and his thirty sons formed accomplished models for the subjects
to look up to. Here they were subjected to the most vexatious extortions,
and a number of articles were stolen from the baggage. On the 14th they
set out from this place, one of the king's sons on horseback with them as
a protector; but had not got a gun-shot from the town, when a bag was
stolen from one of the asses; Park and Martyn ran after the offender, and
recovered the bag; but before they returned to the coffle, another had
made off with a musket. About two miles from this town some of the asses
fell down. Park rode forward to look out for an easier ascent. As he held
his musket carelessly in his hand, two of the king's sons came up, one of
whom begged Park to give him a pinch of snuff. Park turned round to
assure him he had none; upon which the other stole behind him, snatched
the musket from his hand, and ran off. Park sprang from his saddle with
his sword drawn, and Mr. Anderson got within musket-shot of the thief,
but was unwilling to fire on this scion of royalty. The thief escaped up
the rocks, and when Park returned to his horse, he found that the other
descendant of royalty had stolen his great-coat. Park complained to the
king's son who accompanied them as guide; he told him that the best
course would be for the people to fire upon the delinquents. The natives
seeing their preparations hid themselves behind the rocks, and only
occasionally peeped through the crevices. The sky became overcast with
clouds, and before they were five miles from the town, a heavy tornado
came on. During the rain, another of the royal family ran off with a
musket and a pair of pistols, which a soldier had laid down while
reloading his ass. As they halted for a little, the natives nearly drove
off four of the asses. At length Park gave the soldiers directions to
shoot every one who came near the baggage, and they cleared the difficult
passes of the rocks by sunset, without sustaining any farther loss.
During the 18th a great number of articles, and one of the asses, were
stolen from the sick soldiers, who had scarcely strength to defend
themselves; and one of the party not having come up, Park supposed, with
too much probability, that he had been stripped and murdered. During that
and the following day they had three tornados. So many of the beasts of
burden had been stolen, that the men were obliged to carry part of the
loads. Park himself put a knapsack on his back, and his horse had a heavy
load of articles to bear.
They found great difficulty in crossing the banks of the Ba-Woolima, a
narrow, rapid, and deep river, which was then much swollen by the rains,
They first endeavoured to throw across trunks of trees, but these were
carried away by the stream. They next attempted a raft; but after the
logs had been cut, the sick people were not able to drag them to the
water side. But the negroes who were with them constructed a bridge in
the most ingenious manner. It was formed of two ranges of a number of
upright forked sticks, of sufficient length. Across each of the ranges of
forks were placed two trees tied together. These beams were then
connected with cross sticks. To prevent this structure from being carried
away by the current, two large trees, fastened together, were fixed to
both banks, their roots being tied with ropes to the trees growing there;
they were allowed to sink in the water, so that the current could not
bear away the forks whose ends sloped down the stream, and the current
itself kept in their places those whose roots slanted up the stream. Here
another of the party died of fever.
On the 22d they came to Bangassi, a large fortified town; where the king
gave them a bullock and two calabashes of sweet milk, receiving in return
a number of presents. Nevertheless, he seemed somewhat suspicious, and
questioned Park closely concerning the object of his journey. On parting,
he offered Park the protection of his son as far as Sego, whither he
intended to proceed in a few days; but Park was too anxious to reach the
Niger, to submit to any delay. The health of the soldiers became still
worse, one died, and another was left behind at Bangassi. They had not
gone far from the town when four men lay down, and declared themselves
unable to proceed. Park himself felt very sick and faint; but his spirits
were revived, and he almost felt a return of strength, when, upon
ascending an eminence, he saw some distant mountains to the southeast.
"The certainty that the Niger washed the southern base of these
mountains, made him forget his fever; and he thought of nothing but how
to climb their blue summits."
On the 27th, July, they reached Nummasoolo, a large ruined town, which
had been destroyed by war. They had scarcely time to pitch the tent
before the rain came upon them in torrents, and threatened to destroy the
merchandise: two days were spent in drying it. Two more of the men died,
and one was left behind at this place, concerning whom there is the
following entry in Park's journal:--"Was under the necessity of leaving
here William Allen sick. Paid the Dooty for him as usual. I regretted
much leaving this man; he had naturally a cheerful disposition, and he
used often to beguile the watches of the night with the songs of our dear
native land." Their route now lay through ruined towns and villages. The
last of the forty asses they had brought from St. Jago perished of
fatigue. On the 9th August they had to pass a rapid stream, and a number
of their beasts of burden were nearly drowned. Both Mr. Scott and
Lieutenant Martyn were suffering from fever; and Park's brother-in-law,
Mr. Anderson, was found lying under a bush, seemingly in a dying state.
Park lifted him up, carried him on his back across a stream which came up
to his middle, then placed him on his own horse, and again proceeded to
help in carrying over the loads. He crossed the stream sixteen times;
then loaded his ass, walked on foot to the next village, killing the
horse on which Anderson was, and driving the ass before him. In the two
last marches they had lost four men; and on the 12th none of the
Europeans were able to lift a load. As they went on, Park led Mr.
Anderson's horse by the bridle, to give him more ease. They passed an ass
deserted by the driver, who was never more heard of. A sick man, who had
been mounted on Park's horse, also lay on the ground. About twelve,
Anderson's strength seemed quite exhausted, and Park laid him under a
bush, and sat down near him. Two hours after he again made an effort to
proceed, but was compelled to desist. Park allowed the horse to graze,
and sat down beside his dying friend. About five o'clock Anderson faintly
intimated his desire of being mounted, and Park led forward the horse as
quickly as possible, in the hope of reaching Koomikoomi before night.
They had only got on about a mile when they heard a noise like the
barking of a huge mastiff, ending in a prolonged hiss like that of an
angry cat. Park thought at first that it was a large monkey, and observed
to Anderson, "what a bouncing fellow that must be," when another bark was
heard nearer, and then one close at hand accompanied with a growl.
Immediately they saw three large lions all abreast, bounding over the
long grass towards them. Park was apprehensive lest, if he allowed them
to come too near, and his piece should miss fire, the lions would spring
upon them. He therefore let go the bridle, and walked forward to meet
them. As soon as he came within long shot he fired at the centre one, but
did not seem to hit him; the lions halted, looked at each other, then
bounded away a few paces, and one of them again stopped and looked at
Park, who was busily loading his piece; at length, to his great joy, the
last of them slowly marched off among the bushes. About half a mile
farther on, another bark and growl proceeded from the bushes, quite close
to them. This was probably one of the lions who had continued to track
them; and Park, fearing that they would follow him till dark, when they
would have too many opportunities for springing secretly upon them, took
Anderson's call, and made as load a whistling and noise as he could.
Amidst the gullies, Park, after it became dark, could no longer
distinguish the footprints of the asses which marked the way along which,
the party had proceeded; and as the road became steep and dangerous, he
resolved to halt till morning. A fire was lighted, Anderson wrapt in his
cloak, while Park watched all night, in case the lions, whom he knew to
abound in the neighbourhood, should attack them.
On the 13th August they arrived at the village of Doombila, where Park
was delighted to meet Karfa Taura, the kind friend to whom, in his former
journey, he owed so many obligations. This worthy person had undertaken a
six days journey to Bambakoo, on hearing that a person named Park, who
spoke the Mandingo language, was leading a party of white men through the
country; and he brought with him three slaves to aid them in getting
forward. But not finding Park there, he had proceeded other two days
journey to meet him. "He instantly recognised me," says Park, "and you
may judge of the pleasure I felt on seeing my old benefactor."
Mr. Scott had died of fever at Koomikoomi, and Mr. Anderson was only
brought on by being carried in a litter by negroes, whom Park had hired
for that purpose. Disease had done its work fearfully among the little
band that had departed high in hope of tracing out the mysterious Niger;
and it seemed as if the few who had survived the toilsome and dangerous
journey would soon follow their comrades. There were to be other victims
yet.
After having travelled twenty miles along a miserable road, they arrived
at Touiba on the 18th. Rain fell during the whole night, and as the
soldiers went to the village for shelter, Park had to keep watch alone.
The district abounded in corn, which rendered the task very troublesome,
for there is a law in Africa, that if an ass break a single stem of corn,
the proprietor may seize the animal, and if the owner refuse to indemnify
him for the loss, he may retain the ass, and though he cannot be sold or
employed, he may be killed and eaten--the people of Bambarra reckoning
ass-flesh a delightful repast.
On the 19th August, they kept ascending the mountains to the south of
Touiba till three o'clock, when, having gained the summit of the ridge
which separates the Niger from the remote branches of the Senegal, Park
went on a little before, and, coming to the brow of the hill, he once
more saw the Niger, rolling its immense stream along the plain. At
half-past six o'clock that evening, they arrived at Bambakoo, where the
river becomes navigable, and pitched their tents under a tree near the
town.
CHAPTER XXX.
_Park on the Niger--His Death and Character_.
Park now reached the Niger, the point at which he had too fondly hoped
that all his difficulties would be at an end. He had conceived that, once
afloat upon its waters, he would be swiftly borne onwards towards the
termination of its course. But disaster had attended the enterprise
almost from its commencement; unexpected and formidable difficulties had
caused these flattering prospects to vanish as a dream. On the 29th May,
he had expected to reach the Niger in a month; there had since then
passed away eleven weeks of unparalleled hardship; the deadly influence
of climate, aggravated by the horrors of the rainy season, had caused the
greater part of his little band to fall, one after another, around him;
the few survivors were so wasted by sickness that, instead of proving an
assistance, they only added to his cares and anxieties. No wonder, then,
that the joy inspired by the sight of the Niger was transient, and that
fearful forebodings hanging upon his spirit should make him thus
write:--"After the fatiguing march, which we had experienced, the sight
of this river was no doubt pleasant, as it promised an end to, or, at
least, an alleviation of our toils. But, when I reflected, that
three-fourths of the soldiers had died on the march, and that, in
addition to our weakly state, we had no carpenters to build the boats in
which we proposed to prosecute our discoveries, the prospect appeared
somewhat gloomy." On the 22d August, Park hired a canoe to convey the
baggage to Maraboo, and himself embarked in it, along with Anderson.
Several rapids intervened, but the river was navigable over them, being
much swollen, by the rains. The Niger was here an English mile in
breadth, and at the rapids was spread to nearly two miles. They were
carried along, at the rate of five miles an hour, and on the following
day, arrived in safety at Maraboo. Here Isaaco was paid the stipulated
quantity of goods for having acted as guide, to which Park made an
additional present, also promising to give him all the asses and horses
when once a satisfactory agreement had been come to with the king of
Bambarra. Meantime, Isaaco was sent forward to Sego, to ask permission to
pass through the king's territories, and to build a boat for sailing down
the Niger. Some days elapsed before any answer was received; a report was
even current, that the king had with his own hand killed Isaaco, and had
avowed his resolution that every white man who should come within his
reach should share the same fate. During this period, Park was seized
with a severe attack of dysentery, which had carried off so many of his
party; he cured himself, however, by taking a powerful course of mercury.
His apprehensions were relieved by the arrival of the king's "singing
man," who is almost a sort of privy-councillor at the African courts,
declaring Mansong's high satisfaction with the presents conveyed to him
by Park's envoy, and inviting Park to Sego, to deliver them to his
majesty in person. Park was eager to depart, but the "singing man" had
contracted a strong liking to the beef and beer which Dooty Sokee ordered
to be liberally supplied to him, and six days elapsed before he would
consent to move. At last they embarked, and Park thus describes their
voyage:--"Nothing can be more beautiful than the views of this immense
river; sometimes as smooth as a mirror, at other times ruffled with a
gentle breeze, but at all times sweeping us along at the rate of six or
seven miles per hour." After passing Koolikorro and Yamina, Park arrived
at Samee, where he met with Isaaco, who told him that Mansong seemed
favourably disposed towards the expedition, but that, whenever he
attempted to enter into particulars, the king began to construct squares
and triangles with his fingers upon the sand, and during the whole time
that he spoke, seemed unwilling to withdraw his mind from these fits of
geometrical study, and showed no anxiety to have a personal interview
with the travellers.
A few days afterwards, Park was visited by Modibinnie, the prime
minister, and four other officers of the court. It was intimated to him,
that Mansong had instructed him to inquire of Park the motives which had
brought him to Bambarra, and directed him to give an explanation of his
object next morning. Park addressed a judicious speech to them in the
Bambarran language, which seemed to produce the desired effect. He
alluded to the generous treatment he had received from Mansong in his
former journey through Bambarra, and then said, "You all know that the
white people are a trading people, and that all the articles of value
which the Moors and the people of Jinni bring to Sego are made by us. If
you speak of a good _gun_; who made it? the _white people_. We sell them
to the Moors; the Moors bring them to Tombuctoo, where they sell them at
a _higher rate_. The people of Tombuctoo sell them to the people of Jinni
at a still higher price, and the people of Jinni sell them to you. Now,
the king of the white people wishes to find out a way by which we may
bring our merchandise to you, and sell every thing at a much cheaper rate
than you now have them. For this purpose, if Mansong will permit me to
pass, I purpose sailing down the Joliba, to the place where it mixes with
the salt water; and if I find no rocks or danger in the way, the white
men's small vessels will come up and trade at Sego, if Mansong wishes
it." He concluded by advising them to keep this secret from the Moors,
who would certainly murder him were they aware of his purpose. Upon this,
Modibinnie replied, "We have heard what you have said. Your journey is a
good one, and may God prosper you in it. Mansong will protect you."
Park's presents were viewed with high admiration, particularly a
silver-plated tureen, and two double-barrelled guns; Modibinnie
declaring, that "the present was great, and worthy of Mansong." A wish
being also expressed to examine the remainder of his stores, Park was
reluctantly obliged to exhibit them. Two days afterwards, they returned
with a favourable message from Mansong, who promised them protection in
travelling through his dominions, and also gave them permission to build
a boat at Samee, Sego, Sansanding, or Jinni. Park chose Sansanding, as
being the most retired; and Mansong having asked what suitable return he
could make for such a handsome present, Park intimated that two large
canoes would answer his purpose best.
In the voyage to Sansanding they suffered much from the intense heat; and
on the 2d October, two of the soldiers died. Sansanding is a place
carrying on a considerable traffic, and is said to contain eleven
thousand inhabitants. It has a large market-place, in the form of a
square, where the articles for sale are arranged on stalls, shaded by
mats from the heat of the sun. In each stall only a single article is
sold, the chief being beef, beer, beads, indigo, cloth, elephants teeth,
and slaves; besides which one side of the square is entirely devoted to
salt the staple commodity of the place. The value of the articles is paid
in cowries, the chief currency of central Africa.
As Mansong did not seem likely to fulfil his promise soon, Park found it
necessary to provide, by the sale of some of his merchandise, a
sufficient supply of cowries. Accordingly he opened a stall in
Sansanding, and displayed for sale such an assortment of European goods
as had never before been seen in the quarter. He soon found abundance of
purchasers, as his goods were very superior in quality. But his success
had nearly proved fatal to him, for it excited the envy of the merchants
of the place, who, joining with the moors of Sego, endeavoured to tempt
Mansong, by large offers, to put the white men to death; but the king was
far too honourable to accept of this base proposal. But independently of
the danger of such attempts, the season was now too much advanced to
allow of any farther delay. The river was already beginning to subside,
and Park wished to commence his voyage, before the Moors residing in the
countries through which he would have to pass, should receive notice of
his expedition from their countrymen who showed such enmity to him at
Sego. He sent repeated remonstrances to Mansong. At length, on the 16th
October, Modibinnie came down with a canoe from the king; one half of
which being rotten, another half was sent for; but this also being
defective, another, almost as bad, was brought. This proved that his
friendly offices were to be confined merely to words. To add to Park's
difficulties, all the carpenters whom he had brought with him from
England had died, before their services were needed. But undismayed at
this most untoward occurrence, he determined to make the most of his
scanty materials. With the aid of a single soldier, by patching together
all the three, after eighteen days, he constructed a boat, forty feet in
length, and six in breadth, which he termed the schooner Joliba. Before
he left Sansanding, he met with a more severe misfortune than any he had
before experienced. His relation Mr. Anderson died, after a lingering
illness of four months. Park passes no studied eulogium upon his merits,
but speaks of him simply and sincerely, in a manner which shows the high
sense he felt of his merits. "October 28th, at a quarter past five
o'clock in the morning, my dear friend Mr. Alexander Anderson died, after
a sickness of four months. I feel much inclined to speak of his merits;
but as his worth was known only to a few friends, I will rather cherish
his memory in silence, and imitate his cool and steady conduct, than
weary my friends with a panegyric in which they cannot be supposed to
join. I shall only observe, that no event which took place during the
journey ever threw the smallest gloom over my mind, till I laid Mr.
Anderson in the grave. I then felt myself as if left, a second time,
lonely and friendless amid the wilds of Africa." Mr. Anderson was buried
near one of the principal mosques at Sansanding, and the Dooty of the
place was present, as a mark of respect, at the interment. The party was
now reduced to five Europeans; Park, Lieutenant Martyn, and three
soldiers, one of whom was in a state of derangement.
The schooner was ready by the 14th November, and Park only delayed
setting sail till Isaaco should return from Sego; when he came he advised
Park to set off instantly, lest the vigilance of the Moors should be
roused. Before departing he wrote letters to Mr. Anderson's father, Sir
Joseph Banks, Lord Camden, and Mrs. Park. As the two latter are
peculiarly interesting, we shall quote them.
"To the Earl Camden, one of his Majesty's Principal Secretaries of State,
&c. &c. &c.
"_On board of H.M. Schooner, Joliba, at anchor off Sansanding, 17th
November_ 1805.
"MY LORD--I have herewith sent you an account of each day's proceedings
since we left Kayee. Many of the incidents related are in themselves
extremely trifling; but are intended to recall to my recollection (if it
pleases God to restore me again to my dear native land) other
particulars, illustrative of the manners and customs of the natives,
which would have swelled this bulky communication to a most unreasonable
size.
"Your Lordship will recollect that I always spoke of the rainy season
with horror, as being extremely fatal to Europeans; and our journey from
the Gambia to the Niger will furnish a melancholy proof of it.
"We had no contest whatever with the natives, nor was any one of us
killed by wild animals, or any other accidents; and yet I am sorry to
say, that of forty-four Europeans who left the Gambia in perfect health,
five only are at present alive, viz. three soldiers (one deranged in
mind), Lieutenant Martyn, and myself.
"From this account I am afraid that your Lordship will be apt to consider
matters as in a very hopeless state; but I assure you I am far from
desponding. With the assistance of one of the soldiers, I have changed a
large canoe into a tolerably good schooner; on board of which I this day
hoisted the British flag, and shall set sail to the east, with the fixed
resolution to discover the termination of the Niger, or perish in the
attempt. I have heard nothing that I can depend on respecting the remote
course of this mighty stream; but I am more and more inclined to think,
that it can end nowhere but in the sea.
"My dear friend Mr. Anderson, and likewise Mr. Scott are both dead. But
though all the Europeans who were with me should die, and though I were
myself half dead, I would still persevere; and if I could not succeed in
this object of my journey, I would at last die on the Niger.
"If I succeed in the object of my journey, I expect to be in England in
the month of May or June, by way of the West Indies.
"I request that your Lordship will have the goodness to permit my friend,
Sir Joseph Banks, to peruse the abridged account of my proceedings, and
that it may be preserved in case I should loose my papers.--I have the
honour to be," &c.
"To Mrs. Park.
"_Sansanding 19th November_ 1805.
"It grieves me to the heart to write any thing that gives you uneasiness,
but such is the will of Him who _doeth all things well!_ Your brother
Alexander, my dear friend, is no more! He died of the fever at
Sansanding, on the morning of the 28th of October; for particulars, I
must refer you to your father. I am afraid that, impressed with a woman's
fears, and the anxieties of a wife, you may be led to consider my
situation as a great deal worse than it really is. It is true, my dear
friends Mr. Anderson and George Scott have both bid adieu to the things
of this world, and the greater part of the soldiers have died on the
march during the rainy season; but you may believe me, I am in good
health. The rains are completely over, and the healthy season has
commenced; so that there is no danger of sickness, and I have still a
sufficient force to protect me from any insult in sailing down the river
to the sea.
"We have already embarked all our things, and shall sail the moment I
have finished this letter. I do not intend to stop, nor land anywhere,
till we reach the coast, which I suppose will be sometime in the end of
January. We shall then embark in the first vessel for England. If we have
to go round by the West Indies, the voyage will occupy three months
longer, so that we expect to be in England on the 1st of May. The reason
for our delay since we left the coast was the rainy season, which came on
us during the journey, and almost all the soldiers became affected with
the fever.
"I think it not unlikely but I shall be in England before you receive
this. You may be sure that I feel happy at turning my face towards home.
We this morning have done with all intercourse with the natives, and the
sails are now hoisting for our departure for the coast."
These were the last accounts received from Park and his brave companions.
Isaaco, who brought the two preceding letters, along with Park's Journal,
departed from Sansanding on the 17th November, and arrived at Pisania
with the intelligence, that Park, along with three white men (all of the
Europeans that had survived the journey,) three slaves, and Amadi
Fatouma, his new guide, set sail in their little vessel down the Niger.
In the following year unfavourable reports reached the British
settlements on that coast, brought by native merchants from the interior,
who declared that they had heard that Park and his companions had
perished. But as these accounts were vague, no credit was for some time
attached to them. But when months and years glided away without any
information concerning the expedition, it was feared that the tidings of
disaster were too true. The anxieties of the British public had followed
Park on his way, and they demanded that the mystery which hung over the
subject should be cleared up. At length, in the year 1810, Colonel
Maxwell, the governor of Senegal despatched Isaaco, Park's guide, upon a
mission into the interior, to collect all the information that he could
upon the matter. After twenty months' absence, Isaaco returned with full
confirmation of the reports concerning the fate of Park and his
companions. He brought with him a journal, containing a full report of
his proceedings, which bears internal evidence of fidelity and truth. His
information was derived from an unexceptionable quarter,--from Amadi
Fatouma, whom Park had hired to be his guide from Sansanding to Kashua.
Isaaco met this person at Modina, a town upon the banks of the Niger, a
little beneath Sansanding. Upon Isaaco's asking him if he knew what had
become of Park, he burst into tears, and said, "They are all dead!" On
Isaaco's inquiring the particulars, Amadi Fatouma, whom Park had, in his
letter to Sir Joseph Banks, described as a man of intelligence and
acuteness, produced a journal, written in Arabic, containing a narrative
of all he knew upon the subject. We shall give a summary of the principal
facts contained in this document, the veracity of which has been amply
confirmed by the researches of subsequent travellers.
Amadi Fatouma accompanied Park, Lieutenant Martyn, three soldiers, and
three slaves, in the vessel, which had been built for the purpose of
descending the Niger; and which, though clumsy, was not ill-adapted for
inland navigation, being flat-bottomed, narrow, and schooner-rigged, so
that she could sail with any wind. After two days voyage, they arrived at
Jenne, to the chief of which place Park gave a present. They sailed on in
perfect safety till they came to the lake Dibbe, where three armed canoes
attacked them, but were beaten off. They were again attacked at Kabra or
Rakbara, the port of Tombuctoo, and also at Gouramo. In these encounters
several of the natives were slain. About this time one of the three
soldiers, who had been suffering under mental derangement, died. Their
course lay towards the kingdom of Haussa, and they were obliged to keep
constantly on their guard against the natives, who frequently sailed up
to them in armed canoes, and molested them from the banks of the river.
But fortunately they were not only well provided with arms and
ammunition, but had also laid in a large stock of provisions, before
leaving Bambarra, so that they were able to sail on without touching upon
the shore, so long as they dreaded the hostility of the inhabitants. At
Caffo some of the people on shore called out to the guide, "Amadi
Fatouma, how can you pass through our country without giving us
anything?" Accordingly, a few trifling articles were thrown to them.
After they had passed this place, the navigation became difficult and
intricate, the course of the little vessel being interrupted by shallows,
and by rocks almost closing up the river, and dividing it into narrow
channels. At length they anchored before Goronmo, where Amadi Fatouma
landed to purchase provisions. The chief of this place seemed well
disposed towards Park, for he warned him that a body of armed men were
posted on a high rock commanding the river, to cut off his little party.
Here Park remained all night; upon passing the place next morning he saw
a number of Moors, with horses and camels, but unarmed, from whom he
experienced no molestation. The guide was engaged to accompany them no
farther than the kingdom of Haussa. Before he departed, Park said to him,
"Now, Amadi, you are at the end of your journey. I engaged you to conduct
me here. You are going to leave me; but before you go, you must give me
the names of the necessaries of life, &c. in the language of the
countries through which I am going to pass." Amadi accordingly remained
two days longer, till they arrived at the kingdom of Yaour, where he
landed, with a musket and sabre for the Dooty, and some other presents;
and also some silver rings, flints, and gunpowder, as a present for the
king of Yaour, who resided at a little distance. The Dooty asked Park,
through Amadi, "Whether the white men intended to return to that place?"
Park answered that "he could not return any more." The Dooty acted in a
covetous and dishonourable manner, keeping back the king's present, and
retaining it for his own use. Amadi's narrative proves that this actually
caused Park's murder. After the schooner had gone on her way, Amadi slept
on shore, and then went to do homage to the king. When he entered the
king's residence, he found that the treacherous Dooty had already sent
two messengers to the court, to say that the white men had passed down
the river without giving any thing either to the Dooty or to the king,
and that Amadi was in league with them. The guide was immediately thrown
into prison. The king then dispatched an armed band to attack Park as he
passed the town of Boussa; a place peculiarly fitted for the murderous
deed, as there a ridge of rock almost entirely blocks up the river,
leaving only one channel, which Lander, who saw the spot, describes as
"not more than a stone-cast across." Upon this rock the king's force was
stationed. No sooner did Park and his companions attempt to pass this
point, than they were received with a shower of stones, lances, pikes,
and arrows. They defended themselves bravely, in spite of the
overwhelming numbers opposed to them. At length their efforts became
feebler, for they were soon exhausted. Two of the slaves at the stern of
the canoe were killed; nevertheless they threw every thing in the canoe
into the river, and kept firing. But as the canoe could no longer be kept
up against the current, they endeavoured to escape by swimming; Park took
hold of one of the white men and jumped into the river; Lieutenant Martyn
did the same, and they were all drowned in their attempt to reach the
land. The natives still discharged missiles at the remaining black in the
canoe; but he cried out for mercy, saying, "Stop throwing now, you see
nothing in the canoe, and nobody but myself, therefore cease. Take me and
the canoe, but don't kill me." He was accordingly carried, with the
canoe, to the king. Amadi Fatouma was detained in irons three months, at
the expiry of which period he learned these facts from the slave.
As a proof of the truth of this narrative, Isaaco brought with him the
only relic of Park which he was able to procure--a sword-belt, which the
king of Yaour had converted into a girth for his horse. This he obtained
through the instrumentality of a Poule, who bribed one of the king's
female slaves to steal it for him.
When Isaaco's narrative first reached this country, many of its
statements were thought to be unwarranted by facts; but his veracity has
been fully proved by the researches of subsequent travellers. The
accuracy of his account of the spot where the melancholy catastrophe took
place is acknowledged by Captain Clapperton, who, in 1826, visited
Boussa. With some difficulty he drew from the natives an account of the
circumstances, which, however, they ascribed to the men of Boussa,
supposing Park to be a chief of the Felatahs, who had made a hostile
incursion into Soudan, and whom they shortly expected to attack
themselves. In 1830, John and Richard Lander saw the place, and thus
described it; "On our arrival at this formidable place, we discovered a
range of black rocks running directly across the stream, and the water,
finding only one narrow passage, rushed through it with great
impetuosity, overturning and carrying away every thing in its course."
They also discovered a _tohe_ or cloak, a cutlass, a double-barrelled
gun, a book of logarithms, and an invitation-card, which had belonged to
Park. They heard at one time that his journal was still in existence; but
it turned out that this was only a feint used by the king of Yaour to
entice them into his dominions, and fleece them of some of their
property; and there appeared no reason to doubt that the journal, the
loss of which there is much reason to regret, sunk in the waters of the
Niger.
It seems unnecessary to enter into a lengthened estimate of the character
of Mungo Park. The biographical details which we have given, with his own
narrative of his first expedition, and the summary of the leading events
of his second, will have sufficiently enabled our readers to judge for
themselves. But we cannot quit the subject without a few brief remarks,
having frequently, while writing these pages, had our attention called
off from the events themselves to him who was the principal actor in
them. Amongst the numerous adventurers whose spirit of research has led
them into unknown countries, it would be difficult to find one better
qualified in every way than Park was. His frame was admirably adapted for
enduring toil. He was tall and muscular, and possessed great strength and
agility. In his first African journey he traversed three thousand miles,
for the most part on foot, through an unknown and barbarous country,
exposed to continued unremitting toil, to the perils of the way, to
storm, hunger, pestilence, and the attacks of wild beasts and savage
natives, supported by a dauntless spirit, and by a fortitude which never
forsook him. Amply did he possess the indispensable qualities of a
traveller, keenness of observation, mental energy, unflinching
perseverance, an ardent temperament, corrected and restrained by a cool
and sagacious judgment. Amid danger and disaster his character shone with
great lustre. It only remains to be added, that he was an exemplary model
in his faithful discharge of all the relative duties--a good son,
husband, and parent.
We entirely concur in the following observations of a writer in the
Edinburgh Review: "We bid a mournful farewell to the sufferings and
exploits of this illustrious man;--sufferings borne with an unaffected
cheerfulness of magnanimity, which must both exalt and endear him to all
who are capable of being touched with what is generous and noble in
character,--and exploits performed with a mildness and modesty and
kindness of nature, not less admirable than the heroic firmness and
ardour with which they were conjoined. In Mungo Park, we are not afraid
to say, that the world lost a great man--one who was well qualified, and
indeed has been, one of its benefactors. His travels are interesting, not
merely to those who care about Africa, or the great schemes to his zeal
for which he fell a martyr, but to all who take delight in the spectacle
of unbounded courage and heroic ardour, unalloyed with any taint of
ferocity, selfishness, or bigotry."
Park left behind him three sons and a daughter. Mungo, the eldest, became
an assistant-surgeon in India, and soon after died. Thomas, the second,
resembled his father both in appearance and disposition, and early
cherished the intention of obtaining certain information as to his
father's fate. He was a midshipman on board the Sybille; and having
obtained permission from the Lords of the Admiralty, set out on an
expedition into the interior. He landed at Acra in June 1827; but arrived
there only to die. Archibald, the youngest son, is a lieutenant in the
Bengal service. Park's daughter is the wife of Henry Wetter Meredith,
Esq. of Pentry-Bichen, Denbighshire. Park's widow is still living.
The following beautiful tribute to Mungo Park's memory appeared in
Blackwood's Magazine:--
_The Negro's Lament for Mungo Park_.
1.
Where the wild Joliba
Rolls his deep waters,
Sate at their evening toil
Afric's dark daughters:
Where the thick mangroves
Broad shadows were flinging,
Each o'er her lone loom
Bent mournfully singing--
"Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger,
No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger!
2.
"Through the deep forest
Fierce lions are prowling;
'Mid thickets entangling,
Hyenas are howling;
There should he wander,
Where danger lurks ever;
To his home, where the sun sets,
Return shall he never.
Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger,
No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger!
3.
"The hands of the Moor
In his wrath do they bind him?
Oh! sealed is his doom
If the savage Moor find him.
More fierce than hyenas,
Through darkness advancing,
Is the curse of the Moor,
And his eyes fiery glancing!
Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger,
No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger!
4.
"A voice from the desert!
My wilds do not hold him;
Pale thirst doth not rack,
Nor the sand-storm enfold him.
The death-gale pass'd by
And his breath failed to smother,
Yet ne'er shall he wake
To the voice of his mother
Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger,
No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger!
5.
"O loved of the lotus
Thy waters adorning,
Pour, Joliba! pour
Thy full streams to the morning?
The halcyon may fly
To thy wave as her pillow;
But wo to the white man
Who trusts to thy billow!
Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger,
No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger!
6.
"He launched his light bark,
Our fond warnings despising,
And sailed to the land
Where the day-beams are rising.
His wife from her bower
May look forth in her sorrow,
But he shall ne'er come
To her hope of to-morrow!
Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger,
No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger!"
CHAPTER XXX.
_Tuckey, Peddie, and Gray's Expeditions_.
The fatal termination of Park's second journey by no means damped the
ardent desire of acquiring fresh knowledge concerning the interior of
Africa. The question as to whether the Niger finally proved to be
identical with the Congo, was undetermined; and Government resolved to
organize a large expedition for the purpose of deciding it. To attain
this object, there were to be two parties sent out, one of which was to
descend the Niger, and the other to ascend the Congo or Zaire river; and
if the hypothesis proved to be true, it was expected that both would form
a junction at a certain point. The expedition excited much interest, and
from the scale on which it was planned, and the talents of the officers
engaged in it, seemed to have a fair promise of success.
Captain Tuckey, an experienced officer, was to command the Congo
expedition; his party consisted of fifty seamen, marines, and mechanics,
with several individuals skilled in the various branches of natural
history. They sailed from Deptford in the middle of February 1816, and
arrived at Malemba about the end of June. The mafouk, or king's chief
minister of the place, gave them at first a cordial reception, but soon
showed hostility, when he learnt that they had no intention of purchasing
slaves. Soon after, they entered the Congo, which much disappointed their
expectations, on account of the shallowness of its channel. The river,
however, was then at a low ebb; its banks were marshy, and its waters
moved slowly and silently between forests of mangrove trees. The air was
filled with the discordant croak of innumerable parrots, diversified
somewhat by the notes of a few singing birds. As they proceeded, the
river, instead of diminishing, seemed to increase in volume. At Embomma,
much interest was excited among the natives, by the discovery that their
cook's mate was the son of a native prince. His arrival was the signal
for general rejoicing, and the enraptured father hastened to welcome his
heir. During the night the village resounded with music and songs. "Next
day the ci-devant cook appeared in all the pomp of African royalty, with
a tarnished silk embroidered coat, a black glazed hat with an enormous
feather, and a silk sash; he was carried in a hammock by two slaves, with
an umbrella over his head."