On the 27th July, Captain Tuckey was introduced to the Chenoo or

sovereign, who sat in full divan, with his councillors around him,

beneath a spreading tree, from the branches of which were suspended two

of his enemies' skulls. He was dressed in a most gaudy fashion. He could

not be made to comprehend the objects of the expedition, and for two

hours reiterated the two questions,--"Are you come to trade?" and "Are

you come to make war?" After he had exacted a promise that they would not

interfere with the slave-trade, a keg of rum was emptied with great

satisfaction by the monarch and his attendants.

On either bank of the river were ridges of rocky hills, which rapidly

became more and more contracted; at length they came to a cataract, where

its channel was almost entirely blocked up by the fall of huge fragments

of granite. The boats could go no farther, nor could they be carried over

the hills and deep ravines. The party were compelled to proceed by land,

and without a guide. They had frequently to sleep in the open air, the

evil effect of which soon became apparent in the sickness of the party.

At length, just when their progress became easier, on account of the

country being much more level, their health was so much injured, that

several of the principal members of the expedition were compelled to

return to the ship. Captain Tuckey, who had suffered much from fever,

felt a like necessity. At this crisis the baggage canoe sunk with the

greater part of their utensils on board; the natives continually annoyed

them, and seized every opportunity of plundering. They had great

difficulty in returning to the shore. Most of the naturalists died of

fever; and Captain Tuckey was cut off after reaching the coast.

The Niger expedition, consisting of 100 men, and 200 animals, was

commanded by Major Peddie. They sailed from the Senegal, and landed at

Kacundy. Major Peddie died before they set out, and the command devolved

on Captain Campbell. Before they had proceeded 150 miles from Kacundy,

the chief of the Foulahs obstructed their progress much, under pretence

of a war. A long time was lost in fruitless negociations; during which,

most of the beasts of burden died. They were compelled to return; and

Captain Campbell soon after died from vexation and disappointment.

In 1818, Captain Gray attempted to proceed by Park's route along the

Gambia; but being detained by the chief of Bondou, came back as soon as

he was released.

Undismayed by these repeated failures, the British Government still

endeavoured to promote the cause of African discovery. The Bashaw of

Tripoli, who had great influence with the inhabitants of Bornou, and the

other great African states, seemed favourable to the object, and promised

his protection. Mr. Ritchie was sent out, accompanied by Lieutenant Lyon

of the navy. In March 1819, they reached Fezzan. The sultan, who had

acquired great wealth by the slave-trade, deluded them with promises of

protection. Here they were detained by illness the whole summer. Mr.

Ritchie died on the 20th November 1819: and Mr. Lyon, after collecting a

little information concerning Fezzan, resolved to retrace his steps.

CHAPTER XXXI.

_Denham and Clapperton's Journey_.

Government resolved to send an expedition to Tripoli, across the Great

Desert, to Bornou, confiding in the friendly disposition of the Bashaw of

Tripoli, whose influence extended over a large part of Central Africa.

Major Denham, Lieutenant Clapperton of the Navy, and Dr. Oudney, a naval

surgeon, who possessed considerable knowledge of natural history, were

selected for this mission. They reached Tripoli about the middle of

November 1821, and were presented to the Bashaw, whom they found sitting

cross-legged on a carpet, surrounded by his guards; he ordered

refreshments to be brought, and afterwards invited them to attend a

hawking party.

On the 8th April 1822, they arrived at Mourzouk, and were civilly

received by the potentate of that place, who however did not shew any

great zeal in forwarding their arrangements. After various delays, Major

Denham returned to Tripoli to remonstrate with the Bashaw; and not

getting any satisfactory reply from him, set sail for England; but was

stopped at Marseilles, by a vessel sent by the Bashaw, to announce that

an agreement had been entered into with Boo Khaloom, a wealthy merchant,

who intended to travel across the Desert, and had promised to escort the

travelers.

Boo Khaloom was a favourable specimen of that peculiar race, the Arab

caravan-merchants. The Arab trader travels with his merchandise over the

greater part of a continent; his home is wherever the human foot can

wander; he is exposed to the inhospitable desert and the burning sky. He

must be prepared to defend his property against the roving bands of

plunderers, and proceed at the head of a detachment of troops. Confiding

in the strength of his forces, and in reprisal of attacks, he is too

often tempted to add the gains of robbery to those of merchandise. He is

a slave dealer, and organizes expeditions to seize his unfortunate

victims. As the value of his goods is much heightened by conveyance

across the desert, in a few successful journeys he may acquire great

wealth and influence. He is a staunch Mahometan, and enslaves only the

enemies of the Prophet. He is fond of display, and when his wealth

abounds, emulates almost princely splendour. Boo Khaloom had some

virtue,--he was free from bigotry, and even humane for a slave-dealer,

and he was of a generous and honourable nature.

Major Denham travelled along a dreary route till he came to Sockna, into

which place Boo Khaloom resolved to enter in becoming state. He rode at

the head of his party on a beautiful white Tunisian horse, the saddle and

housings of which were ornamented with gold, attired in robes of rich

silk covered with embroidery. On the 30th December, Major Denham arrived

at Mourzouk, and was distressed to find his two companions much

indisposed. They set out from Mourzouk along with the caravan; the party

consisted of 210 Arabs, commanded by their respective chiefs, who cheered

the monotony of the way by tales and songs. The road lay along a sandy

uneven soil highly impregnated with salt, the track being worn down by

the footsteps of caravans. In these dreary regions no sound either of

insect or of bird was heard. After they left Mourzouk, the eye was

relieved at great distances, by the sight of small towns, situated in the

oases, or watered valleys, the lofty palm-trees of which served to guide

them. But these became gradually fewer, and after leaving Bilma, they

travelled for thirteen days without coming to any resting-place. During

the day the sun beat intensely upon them; but the nights were still and

beautiful. Cool and refreshing breezes played around the encampment, and

the moon and stars shone with great brilliancy. A soft couch was found by

removing the--sand to the depth of a few inches.

Soon after the desert presented horrors of a peculiar kind. The ground

was strewed with skeletons, sometimes fifty or sixty together. Fragments

of flesh and hair were still upon some of them. They were slaves whom

their conquerors had abandoned on finding their provisions run short. Two

female skeletons were found twined together,--they had expired in each

other's arms. One day Major Denham was roused from a reverie, by the

sound caused by a skeleton crackling under his horses hoofs. The Arabs

aimed blows at the limbs with their muskets, jesting at these melancholy

remains of mortality.

Their road lay between the two tribes of Tibboos and Tuaricks, and they

passed through the villages and settlements of the former. The Tibboos

carry on a traffic between Mourzouk and Bournou, and subsist chiefly on

camel's milk. They are of a gay disposition, and delight in dancing and

singing. Though black, they have not the negro features; and Denham says

that the females have some pretensions to beauty. They live in constant

dread of the Tuaricks, who often make hostile ravages upon them. The

unresisting and peaceful Tibboos, on their approach fly with their goods

to the summit of the rocks. The Tuaricks, again, in spite of their

constant feuds with the Tibboos, are hospitable and kind to strangers.

Though a wandering horde, and professing to look with contempt on all who

cultivate the soil, they are yet the only African tribe who possess an

alphabet; and they inscribe their records upon the faces of dark rocks

and stones.

About a mile from the little town of Bilma, the capital of the Tibboos,

they came to a spring of water surrounded by green turf, the last spot of

verdure they saw for thirteen days. They passed over loose hillocks of

sand, into which the camels sank knee-deep. Some of these hills were from

twenty to sixty feet in height, with almost perpendicular sides. The

drivers use great care as the animals slide down these banks; they hang

with all their weight upon the tails, to steady their descent; otherwise

they would fall forward, and cast their burdens over their heads. Dark

sand-stone ridges form the only landmarks among these billows of sand.

After a fortnight's travelling, vegetation once more appeared, in the

form of scattered clumps of herbage and stunted shrubs, the leaves of

which were most acceptable to the camels. Herds of gazelles crossed the

path, hyenas abounded, and the footsteps of the ostrich were perceived.

As they went on, the face of the country improved, the valleys became

greener, and the colocynth and the kosom, with its red flowers, were in

full bloom, "The freshness of the air, with the melody of the songsters

that were perched among the creeping plants, whose flowers diffused an

aromatic odour, formed a delightful contrast to the desolate region

through which they had passed." In the neighbourhood was a tribe--of the

Gunda Tiboos, who supported themselves and their horses chiefly on

camels' milk. The chief of this people was quite delighted by a coarse

scarlet robe and a small, mirror with which he was presented. During the

march, the natives committed several thefts upon the caravan, the members

of which in their turn could hardly be prevented from making reprisals.

At length they reached Lari, in the province of Kanem, the most northern

part of Bornou,--a place containing two thousand inhabitants, who dwell

in huts constructed of rushes, with conical tops. They had now reached an

important stage on their journey; for "the great lake Tchad, glowing with

the golden rays of the sun in its strength," appeared within a mile of

the elevated spot on which they stood. Next morning, Major Denham

hastened to the banks of this great inland sea. The shore was covered

with multitudes of water-fowl, which were so tame that they were not the

least alarmed by his presence. The lake swarmed with fish, which the

females caught easily by wading in a short way, and then driving them

before them to land.

They travelled by the margin of the lake, and came to a large town called

Woodie, which was inhabited by an exclusively negro population. In a few

days, an invitation was sent to them to visit the shiek of Bornou, at

Kouka. On their way, they passed the Yeou, a stream about fifty yards

broad, which flows into the lake. Two canoes, constructed of planks

fastened together with cords, and capable of holding about thirty men in

each, lay upon the banks, for the transport of goods and passengers. The

camels and horses swam across with their heads tied to the boats.

Three days afterwards, they arrived at Kouka, where the shiek of Bornou

resided. As they emerged from the forest which skirts the town, they saw

a large body of cavalry drawn up in lines on each side of the road, as

far as the eye could reach. As the Arab troops approached, the horsemen

of Bornou raised loud shouts, accompanied by the clamour of their rude

martial instruments. They then, in detached troops, galloped up to the

Arabs, and suddenly wheeled about, crying, "Blessing! blessing! sons of

your country! sons of your country!" shaking the spears over their heads.

The Bornouese crowded close upon them, and almost prevented them from

moving, till Barca Gana, the shiek's generalissimo, rode up upon a fine

Mandara steed, and ordered his troops to fall back. After some delay,

they were ushered into the presence of the chief of Bornou. He sat upon a

carpet, in a small dark room, which was ornamented with weapons of war,

and was plainly attired in a blue gown and shawl turban. He seemed to be

about forty-six years of age; his countenance was open, and conveyed the

idea of mildness and benevolence. He inquired, "What was their object in

coming?" They answered, "To see the country, and to give an account of

its inhabitants, produce, and appearance, as their sultan was desirous of

knowing every part of the globe." He replied that they were welcome, and

that he would give them every facility. He assigned to them some huts,

which they had no sooner entered than they were much incommoded by crowds

of visitors. They were most liberally supplied with provisions; besides

bullocks, camel loads of wheat and rice, butter, and honey, they had a

daily allowance of rice mixed with meat, and paste made of barley flour.

On a second interview, they delivered to the sheik the present intended

for him; he examined the gun and brace of pistols attentively, and seemed

much pleased with them. He was delighted when he was told that his fame

had reached the king of England, and said, "This must be in consequence

of our having defeated the Begharmies;" and one of his most distinguished

chiefs asked, "Did he ever hear of me?" "Certainly," was the reply; and

all the court exclaimed, "Oh, the king of England must be a great man!"

The sheik was much gratified by the present of a musical snuff-box, of

which he had previously expressed strong admiration. The whole populace

were afterwards gratified by a discharge of sky-rockets.

On the 2d March, the travellers set out to Birnie, to visit the sultan.

At this court it was the fashion for the grandees to emulate each other

in rotundity, and when the desired result could not be attained by high

feeding, they used wadding, and in spite of the sultry climate, put on a

vast number of garments, one over another. Surrounded by three hundred of

these great men, sat the sultan, enclosed in a species of cane basket

covered with silk, his features scarcely discernible beneath his huge

turban. The presents were received in silence.

The travellers departed for Kouka, passing Angornou, a city containing

thirty thousand inhabitants. The market of Angornou is held in the open

air, and is attended by immense crowds; the principal articles sold are

grain, bullocks, sheep, and fowls, together with amber, coral, and brass;

also young lions, which are kept as domestic pets.

The kingdom of Bornou is of great extent. Its chief physical feature is

the lake Tchad, which is about 200 miles in length, and 150 in breadth,

and is one of the largest bodies of fresh water in the world, second only

in extent to the great inland seas of America. Its dimensions vary

according to the season; and during the rains, many miles of territory

previously dry, are submerged. This tract, covered with dense thickets,

and rank grass twice the height of a man, is the habitation of wild

beasts, "abounding with elephants of enormous dimensions, beneath whose

reclining bodies large shrubs, and even young trees were seen crushed;

tenanted also by lions, panthers, leopards, large flocks of hyenas, and

snakes of enormous bulk." These monsters of the wood are driven from

their fastnesses by the advancing waters, and seek their prey among the

dwellings of the natives. "At this period, travellers, and the persons

employed in watching the harvest, often fall victims; nay, the hyenas

have been known to carry walled towns by storm, and devour the herds

which had been driven into them for shelter."

The soil of Bornou is fertile, and though only turned up by the hoe,

yields pretty good crops of the small grain called _gussub_. Vast herds

of cattle abound. The only manufacture in which the people can be said to

excel, is that of cotton cloth died blue with indigo; pieces of which

constitute the current coin. The natives have the negro features in their

full deformity; they are simple, good-natured, ignorant, and fond of

wrestling and gaming. The military force is almost entirely composed of

cavalry, many of whom are well mounted, and defended by coats of mail.

Boo Khaloom had brought with him an extensive assortment of goods, which

he found he could not sell at Bornou. He therefore wished to dispose of

them at Soudan; but his followers were most anxious that he should make a

warlike excursion to the south, for the purpose of driving in a large

body of slaves. He reluctantly, and against his better judgment,

consented to proceed to the mountains of Mandara, and Major Denham,

against the advice of the sheikh, resolved to accompany the party, whose

numbers and strength were augmented by a large body of Bornou cavalry,

under the command of Barca Gana, the chief general.

They set out along an ascending road, which wound through a fertile

country, and passed several populous towns. The way was rough, and

overhung by the branches of the prickly _tulloh_, so that pioneers had to

go before with long poles to clear away obstructions. The troops sang the

praises of Barca Gana, crying, "Who is in battle like the rolling of

thunder? Barca Gana. In battle, who spreads terror around him like the

buffalo in his rage? Barca Gana." They soon reached the kingdom and

mountains of Mandara. In the valley are situated eight large and a number

of smaller towns, which are overhung by the mountains, the recesses of

which are inhabited by a numerous and barbarous tribe, called Kerdies or

Pagans, whom the Arabs and Bornouese consider as only fit to be enslaved.

The dwellings of this unfortunate people were visible in clusters upon

the sides and tops of the hills which tower above the Mandingo capital.

"The fires which were visible in the different nests of these

unfortunates, threw a glare upon the bold peaks and bluff promontories of

granite rock by which they were surrounded, and produced a picturesque

and somewhat awful appearance." The inhabitants of these wild regions

were clothed in the spoils of the chace, and subsisted chiefly on wild

fruits, honey, and fish. They knew the object of this expedition, and so

soon as they saw the advance of the hostile army, parties came down with

peace-offerings of leopard skins, honey, and slaves. The sultan of

Mandara used all his influence to persuade Boo Khaloom to attack some

strong Fellatah posts, and the latter unfortunately consented; his

followers were eager for the attack, the prospect of booty being held out

to them.

After passing through a verdant plain, they entered the heart of the

mountains, and every point as they advanced, disclosed to them heights of

rugged magnificence. The valleys were clothed with bright and luxuriant

verdure, and flowering parasitical plants wound along the trunks of

spreading trees. This beautiful spot, however, abounded in scorpions and

panthers. Next day they approached the Fellatah town of Dirkulla. Boo

Khaloom and his Arabs, with Barca Gana, and one hundred of his bravest

warriors, began the attack, while the rest hung behind, awaiting the

issue of the conflict. The Arabs gallantly carried two posts, and killed

many of the enemy. But the undaunted Fellatahs recovering from their

surprise, entrenched themselves within a strongly fortified place farther

up the hills, called Musfeia, in front of which were swamps and

palisades. The greater part of the soldiers remained without the range of

the arrows of the Fellatahs; who, being joined by fresh troops, and

seeing that their assailants were few in number, advanced to the attack,

discharging showers of poisoned arrows. Most of the Arabs were hurt;

their horses staggered under them; Boo Khaloom and his charger received

wounds which afterwards proved to be mortal. The Fellatah horse, taking

advantage of their confusion, dashed in amongst them; "and the chivalry

of Bornou and Mandara spurred their steeds to the most rapid flight."

Major Denham found himself in a desperate predicament. As the account of

his escape is one of the most interesting narratives of personal

adventure which we have ever read, we shall extract it in his own

words:--

"I now for the first time, as I saw Barca Gana on a fresh horse, lamented

my own folly in so exposing myself, badly prepared as I was for

accidents. If my horse's wounds were from poisoned arrows, I felt that

nothing could save me: however there was not much time for reflection. We

instantly became a flying mass, and plunged, in great disorder, into the

wood we had but a few hours before moved through with order, and very

different feelings. I had got a little to the westward of Barca Gana, in

the confusion which took place on our passing the ravine which had been

left just on our rear, and where upwards of 100 of the Bornouese were

speared by the Fellatahs, and was following at a round gallop the steps

of one of the Mandara eunuchs, who I observed kept a good look out, his

head being constantly turned over his left shoulder, with, a face

expressive of the greatest dismay--when the cries behind of the Fellatah

horse pursuing, made us both quicken our paces. The spur however had the

effect of incapacitating my beast altogether, as the arrow I found

afterwards had reached the shoulder bone, and in passing over some rough

ground he stumbled and fell. Almost before I was on my legs, the

Fellatahs were upon me; I had however, kept hold of the bridle, and

seizing a pistol from the holsters, I presented it at two of the

ferocious savages, who were pressing me with their spears: they instantly

went off; but another who came on me more boldly, just as I was

endeavouring to mount, received the contents somewhere in his left

shoulder, and again I was enabled to place my foot in the stirrup.

Remounted, I again pushed my retreat; I had not, however, proceeded many

hundred yards, when my horse again came down with such violence as to

throw me against a tree at a considerable distance; and alarmed at the

horses behind him, he quickly got up and escaped, leaving me on foot and

unarmed.

"The eunuch and his four followers were here butchered, after a very

slight resistance, and stripped within a few yards of me: their cries

were dreadful; and even now, the feelings of that moment are fresh in my

memory. My hopes of life were too faint to deserve the name. I was almost

instantly surrounded, and incapable of making the least resistance, as I

was unarmed, was as speedily stript; and whilst attempting first to save

my shirt and then my trowsers, I was thrown on the ground. My pursuers

made several thrusts at me with their spears, that badly wounded my hands

in two places, and slightly my body, just under my ribs, on the right

side. Indeed, I saw nothing before me but the same cruel death I had seen

unmercifully inflicted on the few who had fallen into the power of those

who now had possession of me; and they were only prevented from murdering

me, in the first instance, I am persuaded, by the fear of injuring the

value of my clothes, which appeared to them a rich booty,--but it was

otherwise ordained.

"My shirt was now absolutely torn off my back, and I was left perfectly

naked. When my plunderers began to quarrel for the spoil, the idea of

escape came like lightning across my mind, and without a moment's

hesitation or reflection, I crept under the belly of the horse nearest

me, and started as fast as my legs could carry me for the thickest part

of the wood. Two of the Fellatahs followed, and I ran on to the eastward,

knowing that our stragglers would be in that direction, but still almost

as much afraid of friends as foes. My pursuers gained on me, for the

prickly underwood not only obstructed my passage, but tore my flesh

miserably; and the delight with which I saw a mountain stream gliding

along at the bottom of a deep ravine cannot be imagined. My strength had

almost left me, and I seized the young branches issuing from the stump of

a large tree which overhung the ravine, for the purpose of letting myself

down into the water, as the sides were precipitous; when under my hand,

as the branch yielded to the weight of my body, a large _liffa_, the

worst kind of serpent this country produces, rose from its coil as if in

the very act of striking. I was horror-struck, and deprived for a moment

of all recollection--the branch slipped from my hand, and I tumbled

headlong into the water beneath; this shock, however, revived me, and

with three strokes of my arms I reached the opposite bank, which with

difficulty I crawled up, and then, for the first time, felt myself safe

from my pursuers.

"I now saw horsemen through the trees still farther to the east, and

determined on reaching them if possible, whether friends or enemies; and

the feelings of gratitude and joy with which I recognized Barca Gana and

Boo Khaloom, with about six Arabs, although they also were pressed

closely by a party of the Fellatahs, was beyond description. The guns and

pistols of the Arab shiekhs kept the Fellatahs in check, and assisted in

some measure the retreat of the footmen, I hailed them with all my might,

but the noise and confusion which prevailed from the cries of those who

were falling under the Fellatah spears, the cheers of the Arabs rallying,

and their enemies pursuing, would have drowned all attempts to make

myself heard, had not Maramy, the shiekh's negro, seen and known me at a

distance. To this man I was indebted for my second escape; riding up to

me, he assisted me to mount behind him, while the arrows whistled over

our heads; and we then galloped off to the rear as fast as his wounded

horse could carry us. After we had gone a mile or two, and the pursuit

had something cooled, in consequence of all the baggage having been

abandoned to the enemy. Boo Khaloom rode up to me, and desired one of the

Arabs to cover me with a bornouse. This was a most welcome relief, for

the burning sun had already begun to blister my neck and back, and gave

me the greatest pain. Shortly after, the effects of the poisoned wound in

his foot caused our excellent friend to breathe his last. Maramy

exclaimed, 'Look, look! Boo Khaloom is dead!' I turned my head, almost as

great an exertion as I was capable of, and saw him drop from the horse

into the arms of his favourite Arab; he never spoke after. They said he

had only swooned; there was no water, however, to revive him, and about

an hour after, when we came to Makkeray, he was past the reach of

restoratives.

"About the time Boo Khaloom dropped, Barca Gana ordered a slave to bring

me a horse, from which he had just dismounted, being the third that had

been wounded under him in the course of the day. His wound was in the

chest. Maramy cried, "_Sidi rais!_ do not mount him, he will die." In a

moment, for only a moment was given me, I decided on remaining with

Maramy. Two Arabs, panting with fatigue, then seized the bridle, mounted,

and pressed their retreat. In less than half an hour he fell to rise no

more, and both the Arabs were butchered before they could recover

themselves. Had we not now arrived at the water, as we did, I do not

think it possible that I could have supported the thirst by which I was

consuming. I tried several times to speak in reply to Maramy's directions

to hold tight, when we came to breaks or inequalities in the ground; but

it was impossible, and a painful straining at the stomach and throat was

the only effect produced by the effort.

"On coming to the stream, the horses, with blood gushing from their

nostrils, rushed into the shallow water, and, letting myself down from

behind Maramy, I knelt down amongst them, and seemed to imbibe new life

by copious draughts of the muddy beverage which I swallowed. Of what

followed I have no re-collection, Maramy told me afterwards that I

staggered across the stream, which was not above my hips, and fell down

at the foot of a tree on the other side. About a quarter of an hour's

halt took place here for the benefit of stragglers, and to tie poor Boo

Khaloom's body on a horse's back, at the end of which Maramy awoke me

from a deep sleep, and I found my strength wonderfully increased: not so,

however, our horse, for he had become stiff, and could scarcely move. As

I learned afterwards, a conversation had taken place about me while I

slept, which rendered my obligations to Maramy still greater. He had

reported to Barca Gana the state of his horse, and the impossibility of

carrying me on, when the chief, irritated by his losses and defeat, as

well as at my having refused his horse, by which means, he said, it had

come by its death, replied, 'Then leave him behind. By the head of the

Prophet! Believers enough have breathed their last today. What is there

extraordinary in a Christian's death?' My old antagonist Malem Chadily

replied, 'No. God has preserved him, let us not forsake him!' Maramy

returned to the tree, and said, 'His heart told him what to do.' He awoke

me, assisted me to mount, and we moved on as before."

In this fatal conflict forty-five of the Arabs, besides their chief,

fell. Most of the rest were wounded, and had lost their camels, and been

stripped of their property. They were obliged to depend upon the bounty

of Barca Gana for subsistence.

Major Denham also accompanied the Bornou troops on an expedition against

the Mungas. He passed through what had been a fertile country, but which

was then depopulated by war. They saw thirty ruined towns, whose

inhabitants had been carried away as slaves. They passed on their route

old Birnie, the ancient capital of the country, the ruins of which

covered six miles; and also Gambarou, which was dignified by the ruins of

a palace and two mosques. The Munga warriors, struck with dismay at the

approach of so strong a force, submitted, and came in hundreds to the

camp, falling prostrate upon the ground, and casting sand upon their

heads.

On the 23rd of January, 1824, Major Denham, accompanied by Mr. Toole, who

had travelled across the desert to join the expedition, resolved to visit

the Shary, a wide river flowing into the lake Tchad, through the kingdom

of Loggun. When they came to Showy, they saw the river, which is a noble

stream, half a mile broad; they sailed a considerable length down this

river, the banks of which were adorned with forests, and fragrant with

the odour of numerous aromatic plants. They traced it forty miles, and

saw it flowing "in great beauty and majesty past the high walls of the

capital of Loggun." This city was handsome and spacious, having a street

as wide as Pall Mall, on either side of which were large habitations,

with enclosures in front. Here Denham was introduced to the sultan. After

passing through several dark rooms, he was conducted to a large square

court filled with people. A lattice-work of cane, before which two slaves

fanned the air, was removed, and "something alive was discovered on a

carpet, wrapped up in silk robes, with the head enveloped in shawls, and

nothing but the eyes visible. The whole court prostrated themselves, and

poured sand on their heads, while eight frumfrums, and as many horns,

blew a loud and very harsh-sounding salute." The presents were received

in almost perfect silence, the potentate only muttering a few

unintelligible words. The people manufactured cloth of a very superior

kind, and iron coins were in circulation. The females, though handsome

and intelligent, were inquisitive and dishonest; and, upon the whole, the

natives were of a jealous and revengeful disposition. The country is

fertile, abounding in grain and cattle; but the atmosphere is filled with

tormenting insects.

[Illustration: Manner of Fishing in the River Yewn]

Major Denham passed the river Yeou, and describes the mode of fishing

pursued by the inhabitants on its banks, from which they derive a very

considerable source of revenue. "They make very good nets of a twine spun

from a perennial plant called _kalimboa_. The implements for fishing are

ingenious, though simple: two large gourds are nicely balanced, and then

fixed on a large stem of bamboo, at the extreme ends; the fisherman

launches this on the river, and places himself astride between the

gourds, and thus he floats with the stream, and throws his net. He has

also floats of cane, and weights of small leather bags of sand: he beats

up against the stream, paddling with his hands and feet, previous to

drawing the net, which, as it rises in the water, he lays before him as

he sits; and with a sort of mace, which he carries for the purpose, the

fish are stunned by a single blow. His drag finished, the fish are taken

out, and thrown into the gourds, which are open at the top, to receive

the produce of his labor. These wells being filled, he steers for the

shore, unloads, and again returns to the sport."

On this journey Mr. Toole sank under disease and fatigue. He was interred

in a deep grave, overhung by a clump of mimosas in full blossom. Above

was placed a high pile of prickly thorns, to protect his remains from the

hyenas.

Mr. Tyrwhit, who had been sent out by Government, joined the party on the

20th May. Major Denham and this gentleman accompanied Barca Gana on an

expedition, against the La Sala Shouas, a kind of "amphibious shepherds,"

who dwell in a number of green islands on the south-eastern shores of the

Lake Tchad, the channels between which are so shallow, that, in spite of

the bottom being filled with mud and holes, the experienced traveller can

pass them in safety. Here Barca Gana, though at the head of 1400 men, was

inclined to pause; but his troops could not be restrained when they saw

the flocks and herds of the La Salas feeding peacefully on the opposite

shores. They cried out, "What! shall we be so near them, and not eat

them? This night these flocks and women shall be ours." They plunged into

the water, but were soon entangled in the holes and mud of the narrow

passes. The La Salas, too, were on the alert, poured showers of arrows

upon them, and pushed forward their cavalry. The Arabs were totally

discomfited, and Barca Gana was wounded in the back through his chain

armour.

In this excursion Major Denham obtained some acquaintance with the Shouaa

Arabs, also called Dugganahs, a simple and pastoral race, whose principal

sustenance is the milk of their herds. They dwell in tents of leather

arranged in circular encampments; they wear long beards, and their

countenances are serious and expressive. Tahr, the chief, after strictly

examining into the motive of his journey, said, "And have you been three

years from your home? Are not your eyes dimmed with straining to the

north, where all your thoughts must ever be? If my eyes do not see the

wife and children of my heart for ten days, they are flowing with tears

when they should be closed in sleep." At his departure, Tahr said, "May

you die at your own tents, and in the arms of your wife and family!"

The shores of the lake are infested by the Biddoomabs, a piratical tribe

who lurk in the many islands scattered upon its ample bosom. They are

rude and savage in their manners, despising cultivation: and possessing

nearly a thousand canoes, they spread terror and desolation along the

shores.

This was the last warlike expedition which Major Denham accompanied; and

while his zeal for discovery is commendable, yet he seems to have acted

most injudiciously in exposing himself to danger, for the sake of

acquiring a cursory and superficial knowledge (all that his opportunities

enabled him to do) of certain parts of the country.

During the time that Major Denham was engaged in these excursions, we

have mentioned that Mr. Clapperton and Dr. Oudney obtained permission to

travel westward into Soudan. At Murmur Dr. Oudney expired. The territory

of the Fellatahs was under better cultivation than any part of Africa

which they had seen. In five weeks they came to Kano, the great emporium

of Houssa, and indeed of Central Africa, which contains about 30,000

stationary inhabitants, in addition to the migratory crowds, who repair

to it with merchandise from the farthest quarters of Africa. The walls

are fifteen miles in circumference, but only a fourth part of this

surface is covered with houses. The list of goods sold in the market is

varied and extensive, comprising clothing of all kinds made from the

cloth of the country, unwrought silk, Moorish and Mameluke dresses,

pieces of Egyptian linen striped with gold, sword-blades from Malta,

antimony and tin, glass and coral beads, ornaments of silver, pewter, and

brass, &c. besides cattle, vegetables, and fruits. But the chief feature

is the slave market, where the unfortunate beings are ranged, according

to their sex, in two long rows. The cowrie, so frequently mentioned in

Park's Travels, is here the chief medium of circulation. The city is very

unhealthy, owing to the great quantity of stagnant water enclosed within

the walls; many of the Arab merchants of the place are described as

looking rather like ghosts than men. The number of those who have lost

their sight is great, and there is a separate quarter of the town

assigned to them.

From Kano they departed for Sockatoo, which is a well built city, laid

out in regular streets, and containing a large number of inhabitants. The

palace was merely a large enclosure, consisting of a multitude of straw

huts separated from each other. The sultan was away on a _ghrazzie_ or

slave-hunt, but returned next day, and sent for the English traveller.

After being conducted through three huts, which served as guard-houses,

Clapperton was ushered into a fourth, somewhat larger than the rest,

supported on pillars painted blue and white. Sultan Bello had a

prepossessing and noble appearance, with a fine forehead, and large black

eyes. He appeared to be much pleased with the various presents laid

before him, expressing particular satisfaction at the sight of a compass

and spy-glass. He evidently possessed an enlarged and inquisitive mind;

was acquainted with the use of the telescope, named the planets and many

of the constellations, and was much struck with the quadrant, which he

called the "looking-glass of the sun." He desired that some of the

English books should be read to him, that he might hear the sound of the

language, which he admired much.

Sockatoo is surrounded by a wall about twenty-five feet high, with twelve

gates, which are closed at sunset. There are two large mosques, one of

which is about 800 feet long, built in rather a handsome style, and

adorned with wooden pillars. There is a spacious market-place. The

principal inhabitants live in clusters of flat-roofed cottages, built in

the Moorish style, and surrounded by high walls.

The sultan dissuaded Clapperton from his intention of journeying to the

western countries and the Gulf of Benin; giving him an account of the

dangerous and indeed almost impracticable nature of the route.

Clapperton, therefore, resolved to return. Before he departed, he

received an account of Park's death, which nearly coincided with the

statement of Amadi Fatouma. He passed through Kashna, which before the

rise of the Fellatahs, had been the most powerful kingdom in Africa its

power having extended from Bornou to the Niger. It still carries on a

considerable traffic with the Tuaricks. On the 8th July, he reached

Kouka, where he was joined by Major Denham, and both returned in safety,

after having suffered much in their harassing march across the desert.

CHAPTER XXXIII

_Clapperton's Second Journey_.

Encouraged by the discoveries made by Denham and Clapperton, and by the

safe return of two members of the mission, government resolved to send

out another expedition. Captain Clapperton, Captain Pearce, a good

draftsman, and Mr. Morrison, a naval surgeon, were the gentlemen selected

for this enterprize. They landed at Badagry about the beginning of

December 1825, and set out on their journey on the 7th. At the outset,

they were so imprudent as to sleep in the open air, in consequence of

which Morrison and Pearce were attacked with fever, and Clapperton with

ague. On the 23d, Morrison set out on his return to the ship, but died

before he reached it. On the 27th, Captain Pearce died; and Clapperton

was left to pursue his journey, attended only by Richard Lander, his

faithful and attached servant (whose name has been since associated with

the discovery of the Niger's termination), and Pascoe, an African.

After proceeding sixty miles into the interior, they reached the kingdom

of Yarriba or Eyeo. The soil is fertile, and well cultivated, yielding

abundant harvests of Indian corn, millet, yams, and cotton. The females

are industrious, and were frequently seen carrying burdens, spinning

cloths, and dyeing them with indigo. Here they met with a much better

reception than at Houssa, where they had been looked upon as Caffres, and

enemies of the Prophet; the negroes of Eyeo, on the contrary, regarded

them as beings of almost a superior order. At the entrance to each town,

they were greeted by thousands, with every demonstration of respect, and

the night of their arrival was sometimes spent by the natives in

festivity.

Their route now lay through a romantic range of hills, "the passes of

which were peculiarly narrow and rugged, hemmed in by gigantic blocks of

granite six or seven hundred feet high, sometimes fearfully overhanging

the road." Every level spot along the bottom, and even in the cliffs of

the mountains, bore crops of yams, millet, and cotton. Lander describes

one of the lovely spots that so beautifully relieved the sterner

magnificence of the rocks. "At noon we descended into a delightful

valley, situated in the bottom of a ridge of rocks, which effectually hid

it from observation till one approached almost close to it. It was

intersected with streams and rills, the elegant palm, and the

broad-leaved banana, covered with foliage, embellishing the sheltered and

beautifully romantic spot. In the centre was a sheet of water, resembling

an artificial pond, in which were numbers of young maidens from the

neighbouring town of Tschow, some of them reposing at full length on its

verdant banks, and some frisking and basking in the sun-beams, whilst

others were bathing in the cool waters." After leaving the mountains, the

travellers came to Tschow, a walled town of considerable size. As the

road was infested with robbers, they here procured an escort from the

king of Yarriba, consisting of 200 horsemen, and 400 warriors on foot,

armed with spears, bows, and arrows. The troops were dressed in a

grotesque fashion, some wearing gaudy robes, while others were in rags.

The whole cavalcade had a wild and romantic appearance as it wound along

the narrow and crooked paths, to the sound of rude instruments of music.

At noon, they came in sight of the city of Kakunda, picturesquely

situated at the foot of a mountain, and surrounded with trees. After

riding nearly five miles through the streets, pressed upon by the escort,

and almost stunned by the noise of the musicians, the weary travellers at

length reached the palace. The king sat under a verandah, with two

umbrellas spread above him, surrounded by above 400 of his wives, and

many of his chief men. He was dressed in two long cotton robes, decorated

with strings of glass beads, with a pasteboard crown, covered with

cotton, upon his head. They dismounted at about 20 yards distance, and

walked up close to the monarch, who rose and cordially shook hands with

them, repeatedly vociferating, "Ako! ako!" which means, "How do you do?"

at which his chief men and wives gave loud cheers. A house was assigned

to the English, and each day they received a plentiful supply of

provisions.

Under various pretences they were detained at this place for the space of

seven weeks. The Quorra or Niger was only about thirty miles distant to

the eastward; but though the king had promised to afford them every

facility for reaching it, one delay took place after another. He

endeavoured to deter them by false accounts of the dangerous nature of

the route, in consequence of an alleged incursion of the Fellatahs, and

insurrection of the Houssa slaves. At last, however, he suffered them to

set out, by the kingdom of Borgoo, towards Houssa.

They now entered the Borgoo country. They passed several villages which

had been pillaged and burnt by the Fellatahs; indeed, the whole country

bore testimony to the ravages of war. Lander gives a spirited account of

an adventure which happened to him in this part of the country. "We left

a village at four o'clock in the afternoon; and the horse on which I rode

being in better condition than the others, I was considerably in advance

of the rest of the party, when the animal came to a sudden halt, and all

my endeavours could not make him proceed. There he stood like a block of

marble, keeping his eye riveted on something that was approaching us, and

I had scarcely time to consider what it could be, when a fine antelope

bounded before me with incredible swiftness, and in the next moment two

huge lions, with mane and tail erect, crossed the path but a couple of

yards from the horse's head, almost with equal speed, and covered with

foam. A tremendous roar, which made the forest tremble, informed me in

another minute that the lions had overtaken their prey; but the

sudden--and unexpected appearance of these ferocious animals startled me

as much as it had intimidated the horse before, and I hastened back to

the party, my poor beast trembling violently the whole of the way.

Fortunately the lions, which were male and female, were so eager in the

chase that both the horse and its rider were unobserved by them,

otherwise it might have gone hard with me, for I saw not the slightest

chance of escaping. We halted in the woods that night; but fancying every

sound I heard was the roaring of a lion, I could not compose myself to

sleep."

Kiama, the next city at which they arrived, contains 80,000 inhabitants.

The king came to meet Clapperton, attended by a singular train. He rode

upon a handsome steed, followed by an admiring crowd; six young girls,

each flourishing spears, and who had only a fillet on their heads, ran by

his side as he galloped on. "Their light form, the vivacity of their

eyes, and the ease with which they appeared to fly over the ground, made

them appear something more than mortal." When the king entered the hut in

which the travellers sat, these damsels, having deposited their weapons

at; the door, and attired themselves in blue mantles, came in and waited

upon him.

They now crossed a river which was said to have its source in Nyffe, and

to flow into the Niger above Rakah. It abounded in alligators. The

scenery in the neighbourhood is said to be very fine. "Our ears," says

Lander, "were ravished by the warbling of hundreds of small birds, which,

with parrots and parroquets, peopled the branches of the trees in the

vicinity of the stream, whose delightful banks were thereby overshadowed;

and the eye met a variety of beautiful objects,--groves of noble trees,

verdant hills, and smiling plains, through which the river winded,

carrying fertility and beauty in its course, and altogether forming a

rich and charming landscape." They then arrived at Wa-wa, a large city,

through which the Houssa caravans pass, and which has a population of

15,000. The inhabitants are dissolute and extravagant, spending all their

money in drinking and festivity. The ladies were very attentive to the

English, especially a fat widow called Zuma, who even pressed marriage

upon Clapperton, after she had exhibited to him all her wealth. She

afterwards gave him a good deal of trouble by following him on the

journey at the head of a band of armed attendants, and he rejoiced much

when he finally got rid of her.

On their way to Comie, they visited Boussa, the scene of Park's tragical

end. The natives were extremely reserved upon the subject, but what they

told, bore out in every particular Amadi Fatouma's account. They said

that the attack was caused by the English having been mistaken for an

advanced guard of Fellatahs, who were then devastating Soudan. The King

of Boussa received Clapperton and Lander with great kindness. Here they

found boats lying ready for them, with a message from the Sultan of

Youri, requesting a visit, and promising, if they consented, to deliver

up some books and papers of Mungo Park, which he said he had in his

possession. Clapperton's arrangements, however, prevented him from paying

this visit.

They crossed the Niger, and on entering the kingdom of Nyffe, beheld

proofs of the effects of civil war. Two princes had struggled for the

ascendency, one of whom, by obtaining the help of the Fellatahs, had

overcome the other. As Clapperton travelled towards the camp of the

conqueror, he saw nothing but ruined villages, and plantations overgrown

with weeds. "This African camp consisted of a number of huts like

beehives, arranged in streets, with men weaving, women spinning, markets

at every green tree, holy men counting their beads, and dissolute slaves

drinking; so that, but for the number of horses and armed men, and the

drums beating, it might have been mistaken for a populous village." After

journeying along the banks of the Mayyarrow, and passing a walled village

called Gonda, they entered Coulfo, which is the most considerable

market-town in Nyffe. It is enclosed by a high wall, with a deep and

broad ditch beyond it, and contains about 16,000 resident inhabitants.

Markets are held daily, and a great variety of articles of native and

foreign manufacture are exposed for sale. Traders resort in vast numbers

from Bornou and Sockatoo to the north-east, and the sea-coast to the

west, with the produce of their respective countries. The inhabitants are

professedly Moslems, but are by no means bigoted in their belief. The

greater part of the traffic is carried on by the females, many of whom

possess great wealth.

Clapperton next passed through several independent states, one of which

mustered a force of 1000 cavalry.

He next came to the Fellatah district of Zeg-Zeg, one of the most

beautiful and fertile parts of Central Africa. The fields bore luxuriant

crops of grain; rich meadows abounded, and groves of tall trees waved

upon the hills. Thence he went to Kano, which he found in a state of

great commotion, a war having sprung up between the king of Bornou and

the Fellatahs. Having left his baggage at this place, he proceeded to the

residence of Sultan Bello, with the presents intended for that potentate.

He saw bodies of troops on their way to attack Coonia; the soldiers had a

peculiar appearance as they passed by the lakes formed by the river

Zurmie; he thus describes the scene:--"The borders of these lakes are the

resort of numbers of elephants and other wild beasts. The appearance at

this season, and at the spot where I saw it, was very beautiful; all the

acacia trees were in blossom, some with white flowers, others with

yellow, forming a contrast with the small dusky leaves, like gold and

silver tassels on a cloak of dark green velvet. I observed some fine

large fish leaping in the lake. Some of the troops were bathing, others

watering their horses, bullocks, camels and asses: the lake was as smooth

as glass, and flowing around the roots of the trees. The sun, on its

approach to the horizon, throws the shadows of the flowery acacias along

its surface, like sheets of burnished gold and silver. The smoking fires

on its banks, the sounding of horns, the beating of their gongs or drums,

the braying of their brass and tin trumpets, the rude hut of grass and

branches of trees rising as if by magic, everywhere the cries of Mohamed,

Abdo, Mustafa, &c. with the neighing of horses, and the braying of asses,

gave animation to the beautiful scenery of the lake, and its sloping

green and woody banks."

The army, amounting to 50,000 men, under the sultan's command, surrounded

the walls of Coonia. The account which Clapperton gives of the action

which then took place is curious, "After the midday prayers, all except

the eunuchs, camel drivers, and such other servants as were of use only

to prevent theft, whether mounted or on foot, marched towards the object

of attack, and soon arrived before the walls of the city. I also

accompanied them, and took up my station close to the Gadado. The march

had been the most disorderly that can be imagined; horse and foot

intermingling in the greatest confusion, all rushing to get forward;

sometimes the followers of one chief tumbling amongst those of another,

when swords were half unsheathed, but all ending in making a face, or

putting on a threatening aspect. We soon arrived before Coonia, the

capital of the rebels of Goobur, which was not above half a mile in

diameter, being nearly circular, and built on the bank of one of the

branches of the rivers or lakes, which I have mentioned. Each chief, as

he came up, took his station, which, I suppose, had previously been

assigned to him. The number of fighting men brought before the town could

not, I think, be less than fifty or sixty thousand, horse and foot, of

which the foot amounted to more than nine-tenths. For the depth of two

hundred yards all round the walls, was a dense circle of men and horses.

The horse kept out of bow-shot, while the foot went up as they felt

courage or inclination, and kept up a straggling fire, with about thirty

muskets and the shooting of arrows. In the front of the Sulfcaa, the

Zeg-Zeg troops had one French fusil: the Kano forces had forty-one

muskets. These fellows, whenever they fired their pieces, ran out of

bow-shot to load; all of them were slaves: not a single Fellatah had a

musket. The enemy kept up a sure and slow fight, seldom throwing away

their arrows, until they saw an opportunity of letting fly with effect.

Now and then a single horseman would gallop up to the ditch, taking care

to cover himself with his large leather shield, and return as fast as he

went, generally calling out lustily when he got among his own party,

'Shields to the wall!' 'You people of the Gadado or Atego,' &c, 'why

don't you hasten to the wall?' To which some voices would call out, 'Oh!

you have a good large shield to cover you!' The cry of 'Shields to the

wall!' was constantly heard from the several chiefs to their troops; but

they disregarded the call, and neither chiefs nor vassals moved from the

spot. At length the men in quilted armour went up. They certainly cut not

a bad figure at a distance, as their helmets were ornamented with black

and white ostrich feathers, and the sides of the helmets with pieces of

tin, which glittered in the sun, their long quilted cloaks of gaudy

colours, reaching over part of the horses' tails, and hanging over their

flanks. On the neck, even the horses' armour was notched or vandyked, to

look like a mane; on his forehead and over his nose, was a brass or tin

plate, as also a semi-circular piece on each side. The rider was armed

with a large spear and he had to be assisted to mount his horse, as his

quilted cloak was too heavy; it required two men to lift him on, and

there were six of them belonging to each governor, and six to the Sultan.

I at first thought the foot would take advantage of going under cover of

these unwieldy machines; but no, they went alone as fast as the poor

horses could bear them, which was but a slow pace. They had one musket in

Coonia, and it did wonderful execution, for it brought down the foremost

of the quilted men, who fell from his horse like a sack of corn thrown

from a horse's back at a miller's door, but both horse and man were

brought off by two or three footmen. He had got two balls through his

breast: one went through his body and both sides of the robe, the other

went through and lodged in the quilted armour opposite the shoulders."

Clapperton was desired by the sultan to repair to Sockatoo, where he

found the same house in which he had formerly lodged prepared for his

reception. He resided there six months, harassed by disappointment, and

worn down by severe illness. No farther was this gallant and intrepid

traveller to be permitted to advance; in the midst of his discoveries he

was to be cut down, his dying couch tended by none but his faithful and

kind companion and servant, the depth and fidelity of whose attachment is

attested by the affectionate manner in which he speaks of his master.

The feelings of the natives and of the king seemed to have undergone a

most unfavourable change towards the travellers. The Africans entertained

some vague suspicion, that the King of England, in sending the white men

to their country, had some sinister object in view. A letter had reached

the sultan from Bornou, intimating, that in sending missions to Africa,

the English were acting in the same manner as they had done, in order to

subdue the Indian princes, and even advising that Clapperton should be

put to death. Bello evidently put some faith in this ridiculous

assertion. He seized Clapperton's baggage, under the pretence that he was

conveying arms and warlike stores to the sultan of Bornou, and ordered

Lord Bathurst's letter to that prince to be given up to him. Clapperton's

remonstrances against this unfair treatment were vain; grief preyed upon

his ardent spirit, and though the sultan, some time afterwards began to

treat him more favourably, this returning kindness came too late. He was

attacked with dysentery, brought on by a cold, caught by lying down under

a tree on soft and wet ground, when fatigued and heated with walking.

"Twenty days," says Lander, "my poor master continued in a low and

distressed state. His body, from being robust and vigorous, became weak

and emaciated, and indeed was little better than a skeleton." Towards the

beginning of April, his malady increased in violence. His sleep was short

and disturbed, broken by frightful dreams. One day he called Lander to

his bedside, and said, "Richard, I shall shortly be no more,--I feel

myself dying." Almost choked with grief, Lander replied, "God forbid, my

dear master,--you will live many years yet." "Do not be so much affected,

my dear boy, I entreat you," said he; "it is the will of the Almighty,

and cannot be helped." Lander promised strict attention to his directions

concerning his papers and property. "He then," says Lander, "took my hand

within his, and looking me full in the face, while a tear stood

glistening in his eye, said in a low but deeply affecting tone; 'My dear

Richard, if you had not been with me I should have died long ago; I can

only thank you with my latest breath for your kindness and attachment to

me; and if I could have lived to return with you, you should have been

placed beyond the reach of want; but God will reward you.'"

He lingered a few days, and even seemed to rally a little. But on the

morning of the 13th April, Lander was alarmed by hearing a peculiar

rattling sound in his throat. He called out "Richard," in a low and

hurried tone. Lander hastened to his side, and found him sitting upright,

and staring wildly around. He clasped his master in his arms, and felt

his heart palpitating violently; he leant his head upon his shoulder to

catch his last words, but only "some indistinct expressions quivered on

his lips, and as he vainly strove to give them utterance, his heart

ceased to vibrate, and his eyes closed for ever." Bello permitted Lander

to bury the body near a village about five miles from the town. The

grave was dug by two slaves, and Lander, having saddled his camel, placed

the body upon it, covered it with the British flag, and having reached

the grave, read over it the funeral service of the Church of England,

"showers of tears" falling from his eyes upon the book. He then gave the

natives a sum of money to erect a shed over the spot, to preserve it from

the wild beasts.

Lander returned in sadness from the grave of that master to whom he was

so justly attached. Bello allowed him to depart, and he resolved to make

his way to the coast by the negro countries. In spite of the limited

nature of his resources, he even attempted the solution of the great

problem of the Niger's termination. He proceeded to Kano, and struck off

to the eastward of his former route, passing on his way several towns,

the inhabitants of which all treated him kindly. He travelled through the

beautiful plain of Cuttup, which contains five hundred little villages,

situated near to each other, and surrounded by groves of trees, among

which towered the plantain, the palm, and the cocoa-nut. The sun shone

brightly upon the numerous hamlets; the oxen, cows, and sheep, presented

a picture of comfort and peace; and the air was filled with the song of

birds. Thence he proceeded to Dunrora, and conceived that a few days

farther journey would enable him to attain his object, when four armed

men, mounted on foaming steeds, dashed into the town, and ordered him

immediately to return to the king of Zeg-Zeg. He was obliged to journey

back by his former route. After being exposed to various dangers from the

enmity of the Portuguese slave-traders on the coast, he embarked on the

13th February, and reached England on the 30th April 1828.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

_Laing and Caillie_.

At the same time that Clapperton undertook his second journey, Major

Laing, who had on a former excursion penetrated a little way into the

interior, attempted to reach Tombuctoo, from Tripoli, across the desert,

by Ghadamis. In the midst of the desert, the party with whom he travelled

was attacked during the night by a formidable band of Tuaricks; and

Laing, having received twenty-four wounds, was left for dead. He

afterwards recovered by the care of his companions, though several

splinters of bone were extracted from his head. Undismayed by this

unpropitious accident, he after a short delay resumed his journey, and

reached Tombuctoo on the 18th August, 1826. There he resided for a month,

during which several letters from him reached England. He described the

city as every way equal, except in size, to his expectation. It was not

above four miles in circumference. During his short residence, he had

collected much valuable information concerning the geography of Central

Africa. He was obliged to depart in consequence of instructions reaching

the governor of the city that the Christian must instantly remove. He

accordingly engaged a merchant, called Barbooshi, to guide him to the

coast. Before he had advanced three days journey from Tombuctoo, the

treacherous Moor murdered him at night, and seized his baggage and

journal. His papers were reported to have been carried to Tripoli; but

they have never since been recovered.

[Illustration: Burial of Clapperian.]

[Illustration: Body Guard, of the Sheik, of Bornoiu.]

The next traveller was a Frenchman, M. Caillie, who, after having

previously resided some years at Senegal, returned to Africa in 1824.

Disguised as a Mahomedan, he departed for the interior on the 19th of

April, 1827, and arrived at Tangier in safety in the following August.

His countrymen rewarded him with a pension and the cross of the legion of

honour, and claimed for him a high place among distinguished travellers.

Doubts have been thrown upon the authenticity of his narrative, some

having gone so far as to say that the greater part of it is a

fabrication. Many errors have been detected in it, particularly with

regard to the observation of the heavenly bodies; but this may have

arisen from ignorance. It is now generally agreed that his account is

entitled to consideration; especially as in the present state of our

knowledge concerning Africa there is not sufficient ground to disprove

it. At all events, his want of education and defective observation

prevent him from laying any claims to accuracy.

M. Caillie travelled along with a caravan of Mandingoes through a steep

and rocky district, diversified however, at intervals, with picturesque

views, and in many places in a state of comparative cultivation. At the

village of Couroussa he first saw the Niger, which was already about ten

feet deep. He remained a month at Kankan, which contains about 6000

inhabitants, and has a well-supplied market. To the north of it lies the

district of Boure, which abounds in gold. He then came to Time, the

country around which is fertile, producing many different species of

fruits and vegetables. M. Caillie was here detained by illness for five

months. After which he accompanied a caravan for Jenne; and on the 10th

March crossed the Niger, which appeared to be about 500 feet broad at

that point. On the 23rd March he embarked on the Joliba, in a

slight-built vessel, fastened together by cords, and of about 60 tons

burden. On the 2nd April they came to the place where the river widens

into the great lake Dibbe. They then passed through a country thinly

peopled by Foulah herdsmen, and bands of roving Tuaricks. In a few days

he came to Cabra, the port of Tombuctoo, which consists of a long row of

clay huts, thatched with straw. It contains about 1200 inhabitants, who

are solely employed in conveying merchandize from the vessels to

Tombuctoo.

On the 20th April M. Caillie entered Tombuctoo. His feelings at the sight

of this celebrated city were those of disappointment. Perhaps in his

wanderings he had fed his imagination with dreams of a flourishing and

splendid capital reared amid the waste. He thus describes it:--"The

spectacle before me did not answer my expectation. At first sight it

presents but a heap of houses, neither so large nor so well peopled as I

expected. Its commerce is less considerable than is stated by public

report, a great concourse of strangers coming from every part of Soudan.

I met in the streets only the camels coming from Kabra. The city is

inhabited by negroes of the Kissour nation. They form the principal

population. The city is without any walls, open on all sides, and may

contain 10,000 or 12,000 inhabitants, including the Moors." The houses

are built of brick; and there are seven mosques, the principal one of

great size, having a tower fifty feet high. The city depends exclusively

on trade, which is entirely in the hands of the Moors. The chief article

of commerce is salt, which is dug out of the mines of Sahara; but other

articles, both of European and native manufacture, are likewise sold. The

goods are embarked for Jenne, and bartered for gold, slaves, and

provisions. The city is surrounded with plains of moving sand. "The

horizon is of a pale red. All is gloomy in nature. The deepest silence

reigns--not the song of a single bird is heard."

On the 4th May, M. Caillie departed from Tombuctoo, and in a few days

arrived at Aroan, a town containing 3000 inhabitants, on the route to

which neither herb nor shrub was seen; and their only fuel was the dung

of camels. On the 19th May he prepared to cross the desert, along with a

large caravan. Scarcely a drop of water could be found, and many of the

wells were dried up. "Before us appeared a horizon without bounds, in

which our eyes distinguished only an immense plain of burning sand,

enveloped by a sky on fire. At this spectacle the camels raised long

cries, and the slaves mournfully lifted up their eyes to heaven." They

suffered much from thirst during this dreary march, and their strength

was almost exhausted before they reached the springs of Telig. After many

days harassing toil, they came to the frontiers of Morocco, and M.

Caillie, having crossed the Atlas, contrived to make his way to Tangier.

CHAPTER XXXV.

_Lander's Journey_.

In the preceding chapter the reader must have admired the fortitude and

resolution manifested by Lander, when, after the death of Clapperton, he

had to travel to the coast alone. His attempt to reach the Niger shewed

that his disposition was ardent and enterprising, and that, but for

untoward circumstances, he would have effected his object. On his return

to England, he again offered his services to government, and accompanied

by his brother John, embarked from Portsmouth on the 9th January 1830,

and reached Cape Coast Castle on the 22d of the following month.

Having hired several native attendants, one of whom, called Pascoe, was

well qualified to act as an interpreter, the travellers sailed to

Badagry, and landed on the 22d. They resided some days at this place, the

chief being unwilling to part from them till he had obtained as presents

almost every article which he coveted. As if in contrast with the beauty

of the country, the inhabitants of Badagry are a dissolute, sensual, and

greedy race. While they resided in the town, the Landers were invited to

visit the spot where the Mahomedans perform some of their religious

rites. Two Mussulmen guided them to the place, which was about a mile

distant. They came to a bare space of sandy ground, surrounded with

trees; here they found the Mussulmen engaged in prostration and ablution.

Each group as it arrived, was received with flourishes of musical

instruments. Every one was clad in his best apparel. "Loose robes, with

caps and turbans, striped and plain, red, blue, and black, were not

unpleasingly contrasted with the original native costume of fringed

cotton thrown loosely over the shoulders, and immense rush hats.

Manchester cloths, of the most glaring patterns, were conspicuous amongst

the crowd; but these were cast in the shade, by scarfs of green silk

ornamented with leaves and flowers of gold, and aprons covered with

silver spangles." No sooner were the religious ceremonies finished, than

there was a general discharge of fire-arms; and clarionets, drums, and

strings of bells betokened the joy felt on the occasion.

The soil of Badagry is fertile, and consists of a layer of fine white

sand over loam, clay, and earth; the sand is so deep as to render walking

difficult. The inhabitants depend for subsistence on fishing, and the

cultivation of the yam and Indian corn. They fish with nets and spears,

and also with a peculiarly formed earthen pot, which they bait with the

palm nut. The more wealthy possess bullocks, sheep, goats, and poultry.

The houses, which are neatly constructed of bamboo, and thatched with

palm leaves, contain several rooms; almost all have yards attached to

them, to the cultivation of which some little attention is paid.

On the night of the 31st March they set sail from Badagry in the chief's

war canoe, which was about forty feet long, and propelled by poles. The

banks of the river were low, covered with stunted trees; and a

slave-factory and fetish hut were the only buildings visible. At

intervals, at a winding of the river, they saw "a noble and solitary

palm-tree, with its lofty branches bending over the water's edge." At

this point, the atmosphere is loaded with pestilential miasmata. For a

considerable way the water is almost hid by a profusion of marine plants,

but these gradually disappear, and the boughs of beautiful trees hang

over the banks, and screen the travellers from the sun's rays. A number

of aquatic birds resort to this place; and the ear is absolutely stunned

with the noise of parrots and monkeys. They landed, and walked on to Wow,

which is an extensive town. After passing through several villages, their

route lay through woods and patches of open ground, till they came to a

beautiful and romantic glen in the very heart of a wood. It abounded in

butterflies, whose shining wings displayed an infinity of colours.

The Landers now followed nearly the same route which Clapperton had

pursued on his second journey. On the 6th April, they arrived at Jenne,

where they were well received by the governor, who had recently been

appointed to his office by the king of Badagry. The inhabitants are

industrious and temperate, living chiefly on vegetable food. The chief

labour, however, is devolved upon the females, who carry merchandize from

place to place upon their heads, and bear with great patience their heavy

burdens. Their path continued to lie through a most beautiful and fertile

region, covered with exuberant vegetation. With the slightest attention

and care, the soil would yield an abundant return; but the people are

satisfied if they merely supply the cravings of nature, contenting

themselves with slightly turning up the ground with the hoe. As they left

Chouchow, a delightful morning following a rainy night, caused the

flowers and shrubs to exhale delicious perfumes. On each side of the path

were granite mountains of irregular shapes, the tops of which were

covered with trees, and in the hollows of their slopes were clusters of

huts. A great number of birds frequented the valley, and the delightful

notes of a few were strangely contrasted with the harsh and discordant

croaking of others. "The modest partridge appeared in company with the

magnificent Balearic crane, with his regal crest; and delicate humming

birds hopped from twig to twig with others of an unknown species; some of

them were of a dark shining green; some had red silky wings and purple

bodies; some were variegated with stripes of crimson and gold; and these

chirped and warbled from among the thick foliage of the trees."

They arrived at Katunga on the 18th May, and immediately had an interview

with king Mansolah. His head was ornamented with a turban resembling in

shape a bishop's mitre, to which many strings of coral were attached.

"His robe was of green silk, crimson silk damask, and green silk velvet,

which were all sewn together like pieces of patchwork. He wore English

cotton stockings, and neat leathern sandals of native workmanship. A

large piece of superfine light blue cloth, given him by the late Captain

Clapperton, served as a carpet." The monarch, after some hesitation,

granted them permission to visit Botissa and the neighbourhood, and said

he would dispatch a messenger to the neighbouring princes, to facilitate

the progress of the travellers through their dominions. The city had a

melancholy and cheerless aspect; the walls had fallen to decay, and the

streets were nearly deserted.

After passing Kushee, the travellers were joined by a Borgoo _fatakie_,

or company of merchants. Their route lay through a vast and lonely

forest, infested by robbers. At one opening a band of twenty marauders

armed with lances and bows and arrows, appeared from behind the trees,

and stationed themselves in the middle of the path before the men who

carried the baggage, who were much frightened, and seemed disposed to

throw down their burdens and run away. But when Richard Lander presented

his gun at their leaders, their courage failed, and they took to flight.

On the road to Kiama, the appearance of the country was completely

changed, and the road lay through a vast tract of mountain forest, the

haunt of savage animals. The crossing of a narrow brook introduced them

to a people speaking a different language, of different manners and creed

from those of Yarriboo. Lander gives the following account of the first

night which they spent in this new territory:--"We occupy a large round

hut, in the centre of which is the trunk of a large tree, which supports

the roof; it has two apertures for doors, above which are a couple of

charms, written in Arabic. It is now eleven P.M.; our attendants, with

several of their fellow-travellers, are reposing on mats and skins, in

various parts of the hut. Bows and arrows, and quivers ornamented with

cows' tails, together with muskets, pistols, swords, lances, and other

weapons, are either hanging on the wall or resting upon it. The scene is

wild and singular. Outside our hut it is still more striking. There

though it rains and thunders, the remainder of the _fatakie_, consisting

of men, women, and children, are sitting on the ground in groups, or

sleeping near several large fires, which are burning almost close to the

hut, whilst others are lying under the shelter of large spreading trees

in its immediate vicinity. Their only apparel is drawn over their half

naked persons; their weapons at their sides, and their horses are grazing

near them." After entering Kiama, they were introduced to King Yarro, who

sat by himself upon a heap of buffalo hides; the walls of the apartment

were ornamented with portraits of George IV. the Duke of York, the Duke

of Wellington, and Lord Nelson; opposite to these were suspended horse

accoutrements, and on each side were scraps of paper, on which were

written sentences from the Koran. On the floor lay a confused heap of

muskets, lances, and other weapons. The king assigned to them a dwelling

near the palace. The travellers had one day the gratification of

witnessing an African horse-race. The entertainment was preceded by the

ceremonies of Mahometan devotion. The head Mallam read a few pages from

the Koran, after which a sheep was sacrificed; the blood was then poured

into a calibash, and the king and some of his subjects washed their hands

in it, and sprinkled the drops on the ground. After this a few old

muskets were discharged, and the king and his chiefs rode about the

ground, armed, and in gay attire. It was evening before the races

commenced, which were attended by a joyful and noisy crowd. The monarch

and his guards came upon the ground in procession, mounted on handsome

steeds. The horses and their riders soon appeared. The men wore turbans

of blue and white cotton, red morocco boots, and robes of every possible

hue. The horses were gaily caparisoned, and had strings of bells hanging

from their necks. The signal for starting was given, and they set off at

full gallop. "The riders brandished their spears, the little boys

flourished their cows' tails, the buffoons performed their antics,

muskets were discharged, and the chief himself, mounted on the finest

horse on the ground, watched the progress of the race, while tears of

delight were starting from his eyes. The race was well contested, and

terminated only by the horses being fatigued, and out of breath."

On the 5th June they left Kiama, and arrived at a large town called

Kakafungi. The inhabitants are a good-humoured and civil race, often

amusing themselves at night by dancing in the moonlight to the sound of a

large drum. The road from this place was marked by many foot-prints of

wild beasts; but the travellers only saw a few antelopes, which

immediately took to flight. No trees defended them from the burning sun,

and they could scarcely proceed from weakness. They saw the sun set

behind some magnificent clouds, whilst they had yet a great way to go;

and the narrow foot-path, overgrown with bushes and rank grass, was

hardly discernible by the light of the moon. In the afternoon, all had

been silent in the forest; but at night the jackal, the hyena, and the

baboon had forsaken their retreats, and mingled their dismal howl with

the chirping of innumerable insects.

They reached Boussa on the 17th June. The appearance of the Niger at this

place disappointed them much. "Black rugged rocks rose abruptly from the

centre of the stream, causing strong ripples and eddies on its surface."

At its widest part, the Niger here did not exceed a stone-cast in

breadth. They sat on the rock which overlooks the place where the

intrepid Park was murdered. The Landers recovered from one of the natives

a robe, of rich crimson damask, covered with gold embroidery, which the

natives said had belonged to Mr. Park. The king's drummer, with whom they

lodged, told them, that there was in the country a book which had also

belonged to the white man. A few days afterwards, the king came to the

house, followed by a man, who carried under his arm a book wrapped in a

large cotton cloth. "Our hearts beat high with expectation, as the man

was slowly unfolding it, for by its size we guessed it to be Mr. Park's

journal; but our disappointment was great, when, on opening the book, we

discovered it to be an old nautical publication of the last century." It

consisted chiefly of tables of logarithms, and between the leaves were a

few loose papers of very little consequence.

In a few days, a canoe was ready for their voyage up the Niger to

Yaoorie. The canoe was of great length, and constructed of two blocks of

wood sewn together with a thick cord, under which a quantity of straw was

placed, both inside and out, to prevent the admission of water. Still it

was leaky and insecure. The direction of that branch of the river which

flows past Boussa is nearly east and west, and they had to descend the

stream for some distance, in order to get into its main branch, where

there was deeper water. The river then flowed from north to south,

through a fertile country, and its channel was more than a mile in width.

The branches of spreading and majestic trees almost met the water's edge;

ripe grain waved upon the banks; large villages were frequently seen; and

herds of spotted cattle grazed beneath the shade. Canoes, laden with

sheep and goats, and propelled by women, frequently passed them; and

aquatic birds skimmed over the smooth and glassy surface.

During the following day, the river gradually widened to two miles, and

though in many places shallow, was in other parts deep enough to float a

frigate. By the afternoon, however, the beauty of the scene was entirely

gone; the banks were composed of black and rugged rocks, and the course

of the river was frequently intercepted by sand-banks and low islands. On

the following morning, the channel became so much obstructed, that, at

one part, they were obliged to land in order to lighten the canoe, which,

after much trouble, was lifted over a ridge into deeper water. Though

they often struck upon concealed rocks and sandbanks, yet the canoe, from

its peculiar structure, seemed to sustain little damage. At length,

however, these difficulties were surmounted, and they came to the

termination of all the islands, beyond which they were assured there was

no farther danger to navigators. At this point, the river "presented its

noblest appearance; not a single rock nor sand-bank was perceptible; its

borders resumed their beauty, and a strong refreshing breeze, which had

blown during the whole of the morning, now gave it the motion of a

slightly agitated sea." They landed at a village about eight miles

distant from Yaoorie, where they found their horses and attendants

waiting for them. Here one of the Landers obtained from an Arab a gun

which had belonged to Mr. Park, in exchange for his own.

The walls of Yaoorie are between thirty and forty miles in circuit; but

this space encloses clusters of huts, with pasture grounds and corn

fields. The land is fertile, and produces excellent crops of rice. Yet it

must be very unhealthy, for it is in many places swampy, and exposed to

inundation. The sultan's residence is substantially built, and two

stories in height; most of the other houses are built in a circular form.

The place has rather a pleasing appearance, being adorned by many clumps

of trees. The soil is cultivated by a peaceable, industrious, half

servile tribe, called the Cumbrie, who are often subjected to much

oppression.

On the 1st August, they paid a farewell visit to the sultan before

proceeding on their return to Boussa. They were ushered into a large,

gloomy, and uncomfortable apartment, through which naked girls and boys

were constantly passing, carrying dirty calibashes in their hands, and

swallows flew about the room in all directions. The sultan sat upon a

platform covered with faded damask, and smoked a pipe of huge dimensions.

Next day they departed, travelling in a direct line towards the river

Cubbie. They embarked in two canoes, each about twenty feet long, and

constructed of a single log. After they had sailed for about four miles,

the Cubbie fell into the Niger. They took a different channel from that

by which they had before ascended, and reached Boussa on the 5th. They

now determined to proceed to Wowow, to purchase a canoe better fitted for

navigating the Niger. They arrived at Wowow on the 12th, and had a

favourable interview with the old chief. They then returned to Boussa to

complete their preparations, but the arrival of the vessel was delayed,

under various pretexts, until past the middle of September.

Early in the morning of the 20th, however, their goods were embarked in

two canoes, and they set off. Some of their Boussa friends implored a

blessing upon them before they started. They had not proceeded far before

they found that the smaller of the two canoes was so unsafe, that they

were compelled to lighten it much. After passing several towns of

considerable size, they reached a large and beautiful island called

Patashie, very fertile, and adorned with groves of lofty palm-trees. One

of the Landers went to Wowow to procure better canoes, while the other

remained on the island with the baggage. At length they succeeded in

their object, and were again borne along the river. For some time they

met with no obstacle; but at one part they came to a reef of rocks, to

clear which they had to proceed through a very narrow channel, overhung

with the branches of trees, and more than half filled with rushes and

tall grass. Soon after passing into the main river, they landed at the

town of Lever, or Layaba, which contains a great number of inhabitants,

and was then in the hands of the Fellatahs; here they remained till the

4th October. The river at this place ran deep, and was free from rocks.

Its width varied from one to three miles; the country on each side was

flat, and a few insignificant villages were scattered at intervals along

the banks. Yet at a little distance farther on, the banks were again

overshadowed by large trees, the openings of which disclosed a fertile,

and apparently populous country.

Near Bajiebo, they noticed several large canoes of a peculiar build, the

bottom being of a single tree, and built up with planks to a considerable

height. Upon these, sheds thatched with straw, were erected, which served

the people for dwellings. Beyond this place the Niger separated into

large branches, and the travellers went on by the eastward one; after

they had passed an island, these again united.

After passing a high hill of curious granite rock, they came to a double

range of rocky mountains, near which was a small village, where the

canoe-men were exchanged. The hills are gloomy and romantic, fringed in

some parts with stunted shrubs, which overhang deep precipices; they are

haunted by wild beasts and birds of prey. In the very middle of the river

a rocky island, called Mount Kesa, rose to the height of nearly 300 feet,

and its steep sides had an imposing appearance.

They next passed the island of Belee; the sound of music was heard, and

an ornamented canoe appeared, conveying an important personage, called by

the sounding title of "the King of the Dark Water," who conducted them to

his "island-domain," which is called Zagoshi, and is situated in the

midst of the Niger. It is fifteen miles long, and three broad; its mud

surface, which is frequently overflowed, lies almost on a level with the

water, and is so soft, that even in the floors of the huts, a slender

cane could be thrust down to any depth. Yet it is well cultivated, and

productive; and its manufactures are superior to those of Nyffe; the

cloth especially is reckoned the best in Africa. Wooden vessels, mats,

shoes, horse trappings, and rude agricultural instruments, are likewise

made. The travellers saw many natives plying their various occupations in

the open air. The chief of the place possesses a naval force of 600

canoes.

Opposite Zagoshi, on the eastern shore of the river, stands Rabba, the

largest and most flourishing city of Nyffe. The surrounding territory is

fertile, and produces large crops of grain; the people possess many

flocks and herds. The travellers' stock of goods to be exchanged for

provisions was now so nearly exhausted by the delays they had met with,

and the extortions of the chiefs and natives, that they began to be in

difficulties, and were compelled to part with several valuable articles,

and among the rest with Mungo Park's robe.

Before they left Zagoshi, they exchanged their two canoes for one, which

appeared more commodious, and better adapted for the navigation of the

river. It was fifteen feet long, and four broad, perfectly strait, and

flat-bottomed. They had not gone far, however, when the canoe began to

leak, and they discovered that it had been patched up in many places,

After they had paddled about thirty miles, they were in great danger from

the hippopotami, which rose very near to them, and came "snorting,

splashing, and tumbling all round the canoe." They fired a shot or two,

but the noise only called up more of these unwieldy monsters to the

surface. The boatmen, who had never before been exposed in a canoe to

such huge and formidable beasts, trembled with fear and apprehension, and

absolutely "wept aloud; their terror was not a little increased by the

dreadful peals of thunder that burst over their heads, and the awful

darkness that prevailed, which was only broken at intervals by vivid

flashes of lightning. We were told that they frequently upset canoes in

the river, when every one in them is sure to perish. They came so close

to us, that we could reach them with the butt-end of a gun." To add to

their terror, as the night advanced the storm increased. The wind was so

furious, that it dashed the water several times over the sides of the

canoe, so that she was nearly filled. The little vessel became almost

unmanageable; at length, however, they got to a bank about the centre of

the stream, and fastened the boat to a thorny tree. The weather became

calmer at midnight, after which the rain descended in torrents,

accompanied with terrific thunder and lightning. They were obliged

constantly to bale. Next morning they perceived several mountains, which

were so elevated and distant, that their blue summits could scarcely be

distinguished from the clouds. They were of the most varied shapes, and

appeared to form part of a regular mountain chain. After having passed

the island of Gungo, which contains about 100 inhabitants, they were

again exposed to danger on the river, which was so agitated, that the

canoe was "tossed about like a cocoa-nut shell." The only method by which

they could escape sinking, was by pulling it among the Tushes on the

banks, which was effected after much labour and difficulty. No sooner did

they conceive themselves safe, than a huge crocodile rose up close to the

canoe, plunging near it with much violence: one blow from him would have

split it to pieces. Shortly after they came to a place where the current

rushed with the impetuosity of a torrent over a broad sand bank; they

were carried along with irresistible velocity, and the canoe struck

against the roof of a hut which was covered with water.

They now passed the mountains which they had observed on the preceding

day; they were flat table mountains, and appeared to be not far distant

from the bank. One or two were entirely barren, while a few were most

fertile, being covered with corn up to the very summits; they rest

displayed only stunted vegetation. Several villages, surrounded by groups

of tall trees, were situated at their foot. On the 19th October, they

arrived at Egga, a large handsome town, behind a deep morass. It is

upwards of two miles in length, and the people carry on a great trade. A

large number of canoes, laden with merchandize, lie beside the town, and

many of the natives reside in them. Half of the population is Mohammedan.

When they left this place, they were informed that in their farther

progress towards the sea, they would pass through states of an entirely

different character, inhabited by fierce and lawless people, from whom

both their lives and property would be exposed to peril. The friendly

natives exhorted them to return, or at least if they were determined to

persevere, to pass, if possible, the towns by night.

After they had left Egga, the banks of the river assumed a pleasing

appearance, and were adorned with numerous villages. The Landers observed

a number of canoes, built in the same manner as those of the Bonny and

Calabar rivers, which confirmed them in the opinion that they were

approaching the sea. The natives of one village, when they saw them,

sounded their war-cry, and flew to arms; but their hostility was speedily

exchanged for friendship, when the object of the travellers was

explained. Their next halting-place was Kacunda, which consists of four

large villages, at a considerable distance from each other. The river

here changes its direction to the N.N.E., which the main branch keeps

till it reaches the sea. About forty miles below Kacunda, its volume is

increased by the influx of the Tshadda; at the place of the junction the

river is about three or four miles in breadth, and the Landers saw

numerous canoes floating upon it. They passed a large city, but neither

landed, nor held any communication with the inhabitants; they were

afterwards told that it was called Cuttumcurafee, and was a place of

considerable traffic.

Some days afterwards the apprehension of a storm induced them to land,

and to erect an awning of mats under the shade of a palm-tree. No

habitation was seen, but the place had evidently been resorted to by a

great number of people. Three of the men, however, who had gone in search

of firewood, suddenly came upon a village, but saw only some women, who

fled in terror from the strangers, and alarmed their male relatives, who

were at work in the fields. They returned to the party, who did not

anticipate any danger from this strange occurrence, till one of the

negroes suddenly cried out, "War is coming! oh, war is coming!" A fierce

band of men, armed with spears, cutlasses, muskets, and bows and arrows,

rushed towards the little encampment. Resistance was vain against such an

overwhelming force, and the only resource of the travellers was to adopt

pacific measures. They threw down their useless weapons, and walked

forward boldly towards the chief. The natives seemed determined to attack

them; the chief's "quiver was dangling at his side, his bow was bent, and

an arrow which was pointed at their breasts, already trembled on the

string. But just as he was about to pull the fatal cord, a man that was

nearest him rushed forward and stayed his arm. At that instant we stood

before them, and immediately held forth our hands; all of them trembled

like aspen-leaves; the chief looked up full in our faces, kneeling on the

ground; light seemed to flash from his dark rolling eyes, his body was

convulsed all over, as though he were enduring the utmost torture, and

with a timorous, yet undefinable expression of countenance, in which all

the passions of our nature were strangely blended, he drooped his head,

eagerly grasped our proffered hands, and burst into tears. This was a

sign of friendship; harmony followed, and war and bloodshed were thought

of no more." His followers showed equal delight. They gave repeated

shouts, thrust their arrows into their quivers, fired off their muskets,

shook their spears, danced, laughed, sung, and cried in succession, and

in short behaved like madmen. The chief sat down on the turf, with the

Landers on each side of him, while his men stood around leaning on their

weapons. Employing an interpreter who understood the Haussa language, the

chief stated, that he had taken them for a hostile party, who meditated a

midnight attack upon the village, to carry away the inhabitants as

slaves, but that his heart had relented when he saw them approach in

peaceful and friendly guise, and that he had thought that they were

"_children of heaven_" who had dropped from the skies. "And now," said he

"white men, all I ask is your forgiveness." "That you shall have most

heartily," said the travellers, shaking hands with him cordially; and

they internally returned thanks to God for this signal preservation.

Fifty miles farther on, they came to Damugoo, the chief of which place

gave them a very kind reception, and sent a canoe, manned by some of his

subjects to accompany and guide them to the coast. Yet he was a

tyrannical despot, and told the travellers to cut off the heads of his

people, if they annoyed them by crowding to see them. Here they saw

manifest traces of European intercourse; the natives wore Manchester

cottons, and the chief presented the travellers with a case bottle of

rum, a liquor which they had not tasted since they left Kiama.

About a mile from Damugoo, they saw two streams which appeared to be

branches of the Niger; one of which came from the eastward, while the

other flowed from the westward. At the junction formed by this latter

branch with the river, they saw a large town, called Kirree, in front of

which lay a great number of canoes. They appeared to be very large, and

had flags flying at the end of long bamboo canes. The travellers passed

without molestation; but in a short time came in contact with a fleet of

fifty war canoes, each of which had a six-pounder lashed to the stern,

and the crews were well provided with muskets. From their masts fluttered

a great number of European flags of various nations, among which the

British union bore a prominent place; some had also figures on them of a

man's leg, chairs, tables, decanters, glasses, &c. The crews were chiefly

dressed in European clothing. As the travellers came up separately, the

canoes of each were attacked and plundered. Their lives were in jeopardy,

and at length they were compelled to proceed to the town of Kirree. Here,

however, several of the well-disposed and more respectable inhabitants

espoused their cause, and that part of the stolen property which could be

recovered was ordered to be restored. It was at last decided that they

should be brought down the river, and placed at the disposal of Obie, the

king of the Eboe country. During the attack, Richard Lander's journal was

lost, but his brother John's notes were fortunately preserved. The most

valuable part of their property was likewise gone, and among the rest

their wearing apparel, Mr. Park's gun, all their other weapons, their

compass and thermometer, and their cowries and needles, so that they were

left completely destitute.

As the Landers were carried down the river, the country on the banks

completely changed its appearance, being low and swampy, covered with

vast entangled forests, which completely concealed the towns and

villages, of whose existence the travellers were nevertheless apprised by

the number of inhabitants who came to the beach to trade with the

canoemen. The people subsisted chiefly on the produce of the banana, the

plantain, and the yam, and on the fish which they caught in the river.

The chief article of traffic was palm-oil.

As they drew near to Eboe, they sailed through a large lake on the river,

which branched out into three broad streams, which take different

directions towards the south-west; whence they felt assured that they

were rapidly approaching the termination of the river's course in the

Gulf of Guinea. The pleasure which they felt in the hope of soon solving

the mysterious problem which had been hid for so many ages, was however

damped by the thought of their precarious situation, and the hostile

reception which they might meet with at Eboe.

They came to an extensive morass, intercepted by narrow channels in every

direction. Passing through one of these, they got into clear water, and

arrived in front of Eboe town. Here they found hundreds of canoes, some

of which were much larger than any they had hitherto seen, being

furnished with sheds and awnings, and affording habitations to a great

number of the people, who constantly reside in them. The travellers say

that one of these canoes, hollowed out of a single trunk, may accommodate

seventy individuals. The houses of the people of Eboe are of a superior

kind, and are constructed of yellow clay plastered over, thatched with

palm leaves, and surrounded by plantations. The people are a savage and

dissolute race, and the bad expression of their countenances is a true

index of their character.

King Obie determined to detain the Landers till he could extort a large

sum for their ransom. He demanded the sum of twenty _bars_ (each equal to

one slave or a cask of palm oil). The travellers had the prospect of

being detained for an indefinite period, had not King Boy of Brass-town,

Obie's son-in-law, undertaken to pay the amount, and convey them to the

coast, on condition of receiving a guarantee for thirty-five bars, being

determined to retain the difference as profit for his trouble. King Boy

then went to the mouth of the river with Richard Lander, John being left

at Brass-town. The English brig Thomas, commanded by Captain Lake, was

then lying at anchor in the Nun, and Richard Lander went on board, in the

hope that Lake would advance the sum, which was sure to be repaid by the

British Government. He, however, had no sympathy towards his distressed

countrymen, and peremptorily refused to grant them any assistance, and

King Boy was with difficulty prevailed upon to bring John Lander to the

brig, Richard trusting that the hard-hearted captain would by that time

relent. Both brothers were now on board, and were employing all the means

in their power to induce Lake to consent to the arrangement; but in place

of doing so, he set sail, leaving King Boy to exclaim against what he no

doubt considered the treachery of the travellers. The British Government,

however, afterwards caused King Boy to be paid more than the sum which he

had stipulated for.

The Landers suffered much discomfort on board the vessel from the

tyrannical and harsh behaviour of Lake; and they encountered a severe

storm in crossing the bar of the river Nun. On the 1st of December, they

landed at Fernando Po, where they experienced great friendship and

hospitality from the British residents. Thence they found a passage home

in the Carnarvon, and arrived at Portsmouth on the 10th June 1831.

The great problem of African geography was now solved, and the

enterprising travellers met with the praise so justly due to their

sagacity, prudence, and fortitude. "For several hundred miles of its

lower course, the river was found to form a broad and magnificent

expanse, resembling an inland sea. Yet must the Niger yield very

considerably to the Missouri and Orellana, those stupendous rivers of the

new world. But it appears at least as great as any of those which water

the old continents. There can rank with it only the Nile, and the

Yang-tse-Kiang, or Great River of China. But the upper course of neither

is yet very fully established; and the Nile can compete only in length of

course, not in the magnitude of its stream, or the fertility of the

regions. There is one feature in which the Niger may defy competition

from any river, either of the old or new world. This is the grandeur of

its Delta. Along the whole coast, from the river of Formosa or Benin to

that of Old Calabar, about 300 miles in length, there open into the

Atlantic its successive estuaries, which navigators have scarcely been

able to number. Taking its coast as the base of the triangle or Delta,

and its vertex at Kirree, about 170 miles inland, we have a space of

upwards of 25,000 square miles, equal to the half of England. Had this

Delta, like that of the Nile, been subject only to temporary inundations,

leaving behind a layer of fertilizing slime, it would have formed the

most fruitful region on earth, and might have been almost the granary of

a continent. But, unfortunately, the Niger rolls down its waters in such

excessive abundance, as to convert the whole into a huge and dreary

swamp, covered with dense forests of mangrove, and other trees of

spreading and luxuriant foliage. The equatorial sun, with its fiercest

rays, cannot penetrate these dark recesses; it only exhales from them

pestilential vapours, which render this coast the theatre of more fatal

epidemic diseases than any other, even of Western Africa. That human

industry will one day level these forests, drain these swamps, and cover

this soil with luxuriant harvests, we may confidently anticipate; but

many ages must probably elapse before man, in Africa, can achieve such a

victory over nature."[29]

[29] Edinburgh Review, vol. 55.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

_The Steam Voyage of the Quorra and Alburkah_.

The peculiar characteristic of British enterprise is in general its

practical tendency; wherever a way is opened which promises to afford a

competent return for labour and even hazard, the path is pursued; and

though the advantage may not be immediately held out, the experiment is

nevertheless made. Notwithstanding that the remarkable voyage of which we

are about to give some account, failed in effecting the desired end,

enough was done to shew the possibility of establishing commercial

intercourse between Britain and Interior Africa, when due care and

management are employed in the choice of that season of the year when the

influence of the climate is comparatively little felt.

Some Liverpool merchants being desirous of opening a trade with the

countries on the banks of the Niger, by the exchange of British

manufactures for native produce, fitted out two steam boats: one of

which, the Quorra, was of 150 tons, and of the ordinary construction;

while the other, the Alburkah, was only of 57 tons. The latter vessel was

entirely iron-built, with the exception of her decks; her bottom was 1/4

of an inch in thickness, her sides from 3/18 to 1/8 of an inch. She was

seventy feet in length, 13 in beam, 6-1/2 in depth, and had an engine of

16-horse power. The great inconvenience apprehended from the vessel was,

that from her construction, the crew would suffer much from heat; but so

far from this having been the case, the iron, being an universal

conductor, kept her constantly at the same temperature with the water. To

these vessels was added the Columbine, a sailing brig of 150 tons, which

was intended to remain at the mouth of the river, to receive the goods

brought down by the steam-boats.

Richard Lander volunteered his valuable services to this expedition,--the

last in which he was destined to take part; Messrs. Laird and Oldfield,

with a considerable number of Europeans also embarked. They left England

about the end of July 1832, and arrived off the Nun on the 19th of

October, after having touched at Sierra Leone, Cape Coast Castle, and

other settlements, to lay in provisions, and secure the services of some

Kroomen.[30]

[30] The Kroomen inhabit the country which extends along the coast,

from Simon River to Capes Palmas and Lahoo; they voluntarily engage

themselves in bands to aid the crews of vessels.

Having safely moored the brig, they proceeded to unload the merchandize

on board of her, and to transfer it to the steam-vessels. They then began

to sail up the Nun branch of the Niger. This part of the river is most

unhealthy; it is one entire swamp, covered with mangrove, cabbage, and

palm trees. "The fen-damp rose in the morning cold and clammy to the

feeling, and appeared like the smoke of a damp wood fire." The bodies of

the natives are covered with ulcers and cutaneous eruptions; they spend a

short and miserable life in profligacy. After they had gone up about

thirty miles, the banks had an appearance of greater consistency, and the

beautiful, but deadly mangrove tree was no longer visible. The river was

now about 300 yards broad, and from four to five fathoms deep. They met

with no obstruction from the natives, till they came to Eboe, where an

unfortunate quarrel took place, which seems to have arisen from a mere

misunderstanding. The discharge of a gun had been agreed upon as the

signal from the Alburkah for the Quorra to anchor; which being fired

after dark, before the village, alarmed the natives, who opened a brisk

discharge of musketry from the banks. The voyagers found it necessary to

put a stop to this attack, by the discharge of their great guns, and in

about twenty minutes the musketry from the shore was silenced. At

day-break they made farther reprisals, and in order to terrify the

natives, landed and set fire to the village--an act of barbarity which

appears to have been entirely gratuitous and uncalled for. After they had

passed the scene of this unfortunate rencontre, the river increased in

breadth to one thousand yards; the banks were higher, and the woods were

more frequently diversified with plantations of bananas, plantains and

yams. Soon after they anchored off Eggaboo, to take in a supply of wood;

it was the first town which they had observed built at a short distance

from the river, and not upon its margin. It contained about two hundred

houses, each of which was surrounded with a bamboo fence about nine feet

high. They gratified King Obie by a visit, who gave them various

presents, and also visited the steamers in state, escorted by upwards of

sixty canoes, seven of which were of great size, and were each manned by

crews of seventy men. Palm oil is produced in large quantities at Eboe;

but the people are chiefly occupied in slave-hunting. As may be expected,

their disposition is cruel and revengeful,--they live in the daily

practice of the most flagrant vice and immorality.

On the night of the 9th November, they departed from Eboe, and were

guided through the intricate and dangerous navigation by the light of a

brilliant moon. After two days they anchored about 15 miles from the

town. The river was here at least 3000 yards broad; and afterwards when

it had thrown off its two great branches, the Benin and the Bonny, was

about 1500 yards wide, divided by sandy islands overgrown with grass. One

of the vessels grounded, but after half-an-hour's hard labour was got

off. In the course of the same evening they were surrounded by canoes,

which brought goats, yams, plantains, and bananas for sale.

The effect of the climate and of their stay near the swamps now became

fatally manifest. In the Quorra, fourteen men died, and three in the

Alburkah. The disproportion of mortality in the two vessels, at this

period, is ascribed to the superior coolness of the Alburkah, which was

rendered more healthy in consequence of her iron hull diffusing through

her interior the coolness of the surrounding water.

They next anchored off Attah, a picturesque town, situated on the top of

a hill which rises nearly 300 feet above the river. The view from the

town is said to be grand and extensive. Here Mr. Laird saw an alligator

captured by two natives, in an ingenious and daring manner. "He was

discovered basking on a bank in the river, a short distance ahead of the

vessels. Two natives in a canoe immediately paddled to the opposite side

of the bank, and having landed, crept cautiously towards him. As soon as

they were near the animal, one of the natives stood up from his crouching

position, holding a spear about six feet long, which with one blow he

struck through the animal's tail into the sand. A most strenuous contest

immediately ensued; the man with the spear holding it in the sand as

firmly as his strength allowed him, and clinging to it as it became

necessary to shift his position with the agility of a monkey; while his

companion occasionally ran in as opportunity offered, and with much

dexterity gave the animal a thrust with his long knife, retreating at the

same moment from, without the reach of its capacious jaws, as it whirled

round upon the extraordinary pivot which his companion had so

successfully placed in its tail. The battle lasted about half an hour,

terminating in the slaughter of the alligator, and the triumph of his

conquerors, who were not long in cutting him into pieces and loading

their canoes with his flesh, which they immediately carried to the shore

and retailed to their countrymen. The success of the plan depended

entirely on the nerve and dexterity of the man who pinned the animal's

tail to the ground; and his contortions and struggles to keep his

position were highly entertaining."

They were now within the district of the Kong Mountains, which are of a

tabular form, and rise on both sides to between 2000 or 2500 feet. The

change of prospect was most grateful to those who had spent two months in

a flat, marshy, and uninteresting country. These mountains lie in the

direction of W.N.W. and E.S.E., where they are intersected by the Niger.

Their outlines are extremely bold, and they appear to be chiefly composed

of granite. The navigation of the channel between them is full of danger,

as large fragments of granite have fallen into the stream, and produced

eddies and shoals. At a little distance beyond this point, a noble

prospect opened before the Voyagers. "An immense river, about three

thousand yards wide, extending as far as the eye could reach, lay before

us, flowing majestically between its banks, which rose gradually to a

considerable height, and were studded with clumps of trees and brushwood,

giving them the appearance of a gentleman's park; while the smoke rising

from different towns on its banks, and the number of canoes floating on

its bosom, gave it an aspect of security and peace." Here the vessel ran

aground with a violent shock, and they experienced the greatest

difficulty in relieving her.

A great misfortune happened to the expedition a little above Attah. The

Quorra again ran aground, near the confluence of the Tshadda with the

Niger, and all their efforts to extricate her proved vain; she was

stopped for four months, after which the rising of the water lifted her

up.

Mr. Laird, accompanied by Dr. Briggs, visited Addakudda, which was the

largest town in sight from the vessel on the western bank of the river;

it is situated on an eminence of granite, which gives it the appearance

of a fortified place. It contains about 5000 inhabitants, but like most

African towns, is dirty and ill-constructed. Here they saw the method

used by the natives for dying cloth with indigo, which is extremely rude

and inartificial; and the effect seems to be produced solely by the

superior quality of the indigo, and the quantity employed. Little ivory

is exposed for sale in the market, cloth, and provisions forming the

chief articles of traffic.

As any farther progress was for a time entirely prevented, Mr. Laird

resolved to travel towards Fundah, in order to ascertain whether any

opening for commerce could be found there. After journeying about forty

miles, by land and water, he arrived in a state of great debility, and

experienced a most inhospitable reception from the king, who pilfered

from him as much as he could, and detained him in his own residence for

some time, threatening to put him to death if he attempted to escape. He

was only allowed to depart in consequence of several devices, which

operated powerfully upon the superstitious fears of the king and his

subjects.

The town of Fundah, which is very extensive, is situated on the western

extremity of an immense plain, about nine miles distant from the northern

bank of the river Shary. To the eastward the country is rich and

beautiful. The town is built in the form of a crescent, and is surrounded

by a ditch, and a wall about twelve feet high. A considerable space

intervenes between the houses and the walls. The streets are narrow and

dirty, with the exception of one a mile in length, and about two hundred

feet wide; where the market is held every Friday. "The houses are all

circular with conical huts built of clay, with the exception of the chief

Mallam's, which has a gable end to it. The verandahs in the front give

them a cool and pleasant appearance." The king's residence would appear

to be the citadel, as it is surrounded by a wall pierced with many

loopholes. Mr. Laird estimates the population at 15,000, who are chiefly

employed in extensive dye-works, and in the manufacture of iron and

copper utensils.

Soon after this, Mr. Laird having resolved to abandon the expedition,

returned to Fernando Po in the Quorra. Dr. Briggs, the medical officer

attached to the expedition, had died in February; and only three or four

of the original crew of the vessel survived.

We shall now follow Mr. Oldfield's narrative. As Mr. Laird was on his

return to Fernando Po, he passed the Alburkah, with Messrs. Lander and

Oldfield on board, on their way to Boussa. They entered the Tshadda on

the 2d August, and sailed 104 miles up the stream, till the want of

provisions compelled them to return to the Niger. They remained for some

time at Kacunda, Egga, and Rabba, but their efforts to open a trade with

the natives were by no means successful. At Rabba, they were compelled to

return, in consequence of the steamer's engine having sustained some

damage. They returned to the sea-coast, but had scarcely arrived when

Lander departed to Cape Coast Castle to procure a supply of cowries. Mr.

Oldfield proceeded with the Alburkah to meet him. The voyage was slow,

for the machinery had got out of order; great mortality prevailed on

board the vessel; the Kroometi began to disobey orders; and there were

rumours abroad, that the natives, knowing their weakness and diminished

numbers, intended to attack and plunder the vessel. On the 28th of March,

Mr. Oldfield received a letter from Richard Lander, which stated that his

boat had been attacked, three of the crew killed, and himself wounded;

that the other three men who were with him had been seriously hurt; that

they had been plundered of every thing, and had with difficulty escaped.

This fatal accident happened when he was opposite to the towns called

Hyamma and Ikibree. The natives tempted by the value of the goods which

he carried with him in several canoes, opened a fire of musketry upon

him. Lander and his men defended themselves as long as they could, but

they were at length compelled to flee. Their pursuers continued to fire;

and as Lander stooped to take up some ammunition, he received a musket

shot, and the ball lodged in the upper part of his thigh. The wound at

first seemed slight, and he was enabled to reach Fernando Po; but all

efforts to extract the ball were useless, and mortification of the

muscles having ensued, he expired on the thirteenth day after the attack.

The Alburkah proceeded up the river no farther than Attah, where Mr.

Oldfield procured a considerable quantity of ivory. The greater part of

the crew had been cut off by fever and dysentery, four only being fit for

duty. As soon, therefore, as Mr. Oldfield heard of Mr. Lander's death, he

resolved to return to the coast, which he reached in July 1834.

We have now completed the sketch of those discoveries in Central Africa,

which have taken place since the time of Park, and have endeavoured to

make it as interesting as our restricted limits permitted. The scenery

through which we have passed has been varied and sometimes beautiful; but

the beauty has been wild and uncultivated, and has been more than

counterbalanced by the oft-times stern aspect of nature, darkened by the

frowns of an ungenial and unhealthy sky, in too faithful keeping with the

actions of savage men, cruel and revengeful, sunk in vice and immorality.

The narrative has been one of suffering and untimely death; one

adventurer after another has gone forth, while scarcely one has returned

from his toilsome and perilous wanderings; and the melancholy list has

been closed by the fate of him who had the proud honour of tracing the

termination of the mysterious river. Though each has displayed high and

peculiar qualities of mind, not one has surpassed him whose energy and

force of character in a great measure paved the way for succeeding

travellers. Yet none will have fallen in vain, inasmuch as each has done

something to point out the way whereby the blessings of civilization may

be conveyed to the natives of Africa. The time may yet be distant, but it

will assuredly come, when commerce and enlightenment shall be conveyed by

the great channel of the Niger; when slavery shall be finally and for

ever destroyed; and when, above all, the same blessed influence shall

pervade Central, which had already done so much good in Southern Africa;

when the voice of the missionary, which has been already blessed in

raising up from the ground the degraded Hotentot, shall be heard in the

huts that border the great river; when the natives shall cast away their

idols, and with them, those vices which degrade and sully their

character.

THE END.