WADY WARDAN

[p.471] of the chain of Tyh, run parallel with the road, to the left,

about eight miles distant; they are inhabited by Terabein. At the end of

four hours and a half we halted for a few hours in Wady Seder which

takes its name of Wady only, from being overflown with water when the

rains are very copious, which, however, does not happen every year. Its

natural formation by no means entitles it to be called a valley, its

level being only a few feet lower than that of the desert on both sides.

Some thorny trees grow in it, but no herbs for pasture. We continued our

way S. b. E. over the plain, which was alternately gravelly, stony, and

sandy. At the end of seven hours and a half we reached Wady Wardan

[Arabic], a valley or bed of a torrent, similar in nature to the former,

but broader. Near its extremity, at the sea side, it is several miles in

breadth; and here is the well of Abou Szoueyra, which I have already

mentioned. The Arabs of Tor seldom encamp in this place, but the

Terabein Arabs are sometimes attracted by the well. During the war which

happened about eight years ago between the Towara and the Maazy

Bedouins, who live in the mountains between Cairo and Cosseir, a party

of the former happened to be stationed here with their families. They

were surprised one morning by a troop of their enemies, while assembled

in the Sheikh’s tent to drink coffee. Seven or eight of them were cut

down: the Sheikh himself, an old man, seeing escape impossible, sat down

by the fire, when the leader of the Maazy came up, and cried out to him

to throw down his turban and his life should be spared. The generous

Sheikh, rather than do what, according to Bedouin notions, would have

stained his reputation ever after, exclaimed, “I shall not uncover my

head before my enemies;” and was immediately killed with the thrust of a

lance. A low chain of sand-hills begins here to the west, near the sea;

and the eastern mountains approach the road. At nine hours and a half,

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