DEPARTURE FOR CAIRO

[p.439] had established a depot for his Arabian expedition. The

provisions of my companions consisted only of flour; besides flour, I

carried some butter and dried Leben (sour milk), which when dissolved in

water, forms not only a refreshing beverage, but is much to be

recommended as a preservative of health when travelling in summer. These

were our only provisions. During the journey we did not sup till after

sunset, and we breakfasted in the morning upon a piece of dry bread,

which we had baked in the ashes the preceding evening, without either

salt or leven. The frugality of these Bedouins is indeed without

example; my companions, who walked at least five hours every day,

supported themselves for four and twenty hours with a piece of dry black

bread of about a pound and a half weight, without any other kind of

nourishment. I endeavoured, as much as possible to imitate their

abstemiousness, being already convinced from experience that it is the

best preservative against the effects of the fatigues of such a journey.

My companions proved to be very good natured people: and not a single

quarrel happened during our route, except between myself and my guide.

He too was an honest, good tempered man, but I suffered from his

negligence, and rather from his ignorance of my wants, as an European.

He had brought only one water-skin with him, which was to serve us both

for drinking and cooking; and as we had several intervals of three days

without meeting with water, I found myself on very short allowance, and

could not receive any assistance from my companions, who had scarcely

enough for themselves. But these people think nothing of hardships and

privations, and take it for granted, that other people’s constitutions

are hardened to the same aptitude of enduring thirst and fatigue, as

their own.

We returned to Szadeke, where we filled our water-skins, and proceeded

from thence in a W.S.W. direction, ascending the eastern

Travels in Syria and the Holy Land · 第 286 / 426 题