BEIT KERM

[p.376] of the traveller, that we did not learn the Sheikh’s misfortune

till the following day. He was in the women’s apartment, and we did not

hear him utter any complaints. They supposed, with reason, that if we

were informed of his situation it would prevent us from enjoying our

supper. A lamb was killed, and a friend of the family did the honours of

the table: we should have enjoyed our repast had there not been an

absolute want of water, but there was none nearer than the Modjeb, and

the daily supply which, according to the custom of the Arabs, had been

brought in before sun-rise, was, as often happens, exhausted before

night; our own water skins too, which we had filled at the Modjeb, had

been emptied by the shepherds before we reached the encampment. This

loss was the more sensible to me, as in desert countries where water

seldom occurs, not feeling great thirst during the heat of the day, I

was seldom in the habit of drinking much at that time; but in the

evening, and the early part of the night, I always drank with great

eagerness.

July 15th.—We left our kind hosts, who belonged to the Arabs Hamaide,

early in the morning, and continued our route along the ancient road. At

half an hour from the encampment we passed the ruined village El Ryhha

(Arabic), in one hour and a half we arrived at the ruins of an ancient

city called Beit Kerm (Arabic), belonging to which, on the side of the

road, are the remains of a temple of remote antiquity. Its shape is an

oblong square, one of the long sides forming the front, where was a

portica of eight columns in antis: the columns, three feet in diameter,

are lying on the ground. Within the temple, a great part of the walls of

which are fallen, there are fragments of smaller columns. The stones

used in the construction of the walls are about five feet long, and two

feet broad. At one hour and three quarters is the ruined village of

Hemeymat (Arabic). This district, which is an even plain, is

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