In returning to Damascus, it was my intention to obtain some further
knowledge of the Haouran, and to extend my journey over the mountains to
the south of Damascus, where I wished to explore the ruins of Djerash
(Gerasa) and of Amman (Philadelphia) in the ancient Decapolis, which M.
Seetzen had discovered in his journey from Damascus to Jerusalem. An
unexpected change in the government of Damascus obliged me to protract
my stay in that city for nearly a month. The news had just been received
of the dismissal of Soleiman Pasha, and it was necessary for me, before
I set off, to ascertain whether the country would yield quietly to the
command of the new Pasha; for, if rebel parties started up, and
submission became doubtful, the traveller would run great hazards, would
be unable to derive any advantage from the protection of the government,
and would be obliged to force his way by the means of endless presents
to the provincial chiefs.
As soon as I was satisfied of the tranquil state of the Pashalik, I set
out for the Haouran. I took with me a Damascene, who had been seventeen
times to Mekka, who was well acquainted with the