Friday, June 1st. At 1/2 an hour After Noon, upon the Boat we had ahead

sounding making the Signal for Shoal Water, we hauld our wind to the

North-East, having at that time 7 fathoms; the Next cast 5, and then 3,

upon which we let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up. The North-West

point of Thirsty Sound, or Pier Head, bore South-East, distance 6

Leagues, being Midway between the Islands which lies off the East point

of the Western inlet and 3 Small Islands directly without them,* (* The

shoal is now known as Lake Shoal. The three Islands are the Bedwell

Islands.) it being now the first of the flood which we found to set

North-West by West 1/2 West. After having sounded about the Shoal, on

which we found not quite 3 fathoms, but without it deep water, we got

under Sail, and hauld round the 3 Islands just mentioned, and came to an

Anchor under the Lee of them in 15 fathoms, having at this time dark,

hazey, rainy weather, which continued until 7 o'Clock a.m., at which time

we got again under sail, and stood to the North-West with a fresh breeze

at South-South-East and fair weather, having the Main land in Sight and a

Number of Islands all round us, some of which lay out at Sea as far as we

could See. The Western Inlet before mentioned, known in the Chart by the

Name of Broad Sound, we had now all open. It is at least 9 or 10 Leagues

wide at the Entrance, with several Islands laying in and before, and I

believe Shoals also, for we had very irregular Soundings, from 10 to 5

and 4 fathoms. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 21

degrees 29 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Townshend 59

degrees West. A point of Land, which forms the North-West Entrance into

Broad Sound, bore from us at this Time West, distance 3 Leagues; this

Cape I have named Cape Palmerston* (* Henry Viscount Palmerston was a

Lord of the Admiralty, 1766 to 1778.) (Latitude 21 degrees 27 minutes

South, Longitude 210 degrees 57 minutes West). Between this Cape and Cape

Townshend lies the Bay of Inlets, so named from the Number of Inlets,

Creeks, etc., in it.* (* The name Bay of Inlets has disappeared from the

charts. Cook applied it to the whole mass of bays in this locality,

covering over 60 miles. A look at a modern chart causes amazement that

Cook managed to keep his ship off the ground, as the whole sea in his

track is strewed with dangers.)

[Off Cape Hillsborough, Queensland.]

Saturday, 2nd. Winds at South-South-East and South-East, a gentle breeze,

with which we stood to the North-West and North-West by North, as the

land lay, under an easey Sail. Having a boat ahead, found our Soundings

at first were very irregular, from 9 to 4 fathoms; but afterwards

regular, from 9 to 11 fathoms. At 8, being about 2 Leagues from the Main

Land, we Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, Sandy bottom. Soon after this we found a

Slow Motion of a Tide seting to the Eastward, and rode so until 6, at

which time the tide had risen 11 feet; we now got under Sail, and Stood

away North-North-West as the land lay. From the Observations made on the

tide last Night it is plain that the flood comes from the North-West;

whereas Yesterday and for Several days before we found it to come from

the South-East. This is neither the first nor second time that we have

observed the same thing, and in my Opinion easy accounted for; but this I

shall do in another place. At sun rise we found the Variation to be 6

degrees 45 minutes East. In steering along shore between the Island and

the Main, at the Distance of 2 Leagues from the Latter, and 3 or 4 from

the former, our soundings were Regular, from 12 to 9 fathoms; but about

11 o'Clock we were again embarrassed with Shoal Water,* (* Blackwood

Shoals.) but got clear without letting go an Anchor; we had at one time

not quite 3 fathoms. At Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Main land,

and about 4 from the Islands without us; our Latitude by Observation was

20 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Palmerston 16

degrees West; a pretty high Promontory, which I named Cape Hillsborough,*

(* Earl of Hillsborough was the First Secretary of State for the

Colonies, and President of the Board of Trade when the Endeavour sailed.)

bore West 1/2 North, distant 7 Miles. The Main Land is here pretty much

diversified with Mountains, Hills, plains, and Vallies, and seem'd to be

tollerably Cloathed with Wood and Verdure. These Islands, which lay

Parrallel with the Coast, and from 5 to 8 or 9 Leagues off, are of

Various Extent, both for height and Circuit; hardly any Exceeds 5 Leagues

in Circuit, and many again are very small.* (* The Cumberland Islands.

They stretch along the coast for 60 miles.) Besides the Chain of Islands,

which lay at a distance from the Coast, there are other Small Ones laying

under the Land. Some few smokes were seen on the Main land.

Sunday, 3rd. Winds between the South by East and South-East. A Gentle

breeze and Clear weather. In the P.M. we steer'd along shore North-West

1/2 West, at the distance of 2 Leagues from the Main, having 9 and 10

fathoms regular soundings. At sun set the furthest point of the Main Land

that we could distinguish as such bore North 48 degrees West; to the

Northward of this lay some high land, which I took to be an Island, the

North West point of which bore North 41 degrees West; but as I was not

sure that there was a passage this way, we at 8 came to an Anchor in 10

fathoms, muddy bottom. 2 hours after this we had a tide setting to the

Northward, and at 2 o'clock it had fallen 9 Feet since the time we

Anchored. After this the Tide began to rise, and the flood came from the

Northward, which was from the Islands out at Sea, and plainly indicated

that there was no passage to the North-West; but as this did not appear

at day light when we got under Sail, and stood away to the North-West

until 8, at this time we discover'd low land, quite a Cross what we took

for an Opening between the Main and the Islands, which proved to be a Bay

about 5 or 6 Leagues deep. Upon this we hauld our wind to the Eastward

round the Northermost point of the Bay, which bore from us at this time

North-East by North, distance 4 Leagues. From this point we found the

Main land trend away North by West 1/2 West, and a Strait or Passage

between it and a Large Island* (* Whitsunday Island.) or Islands laying

in a Parrallel direction with the Coast; this passage we Stood into,

having the Tide of Ebb in our favour. At Noon we were just within the

Entrance, and by observation in the Latitude of 20 degrees 26 minutes

South; Cape Hillsborough bore South by East, distant 10 Leagues, and the

North point of the Bay before mentioned bore South 19 degrees West,

distance 4 Miles. This point I have named Cape Conway* (* General H.S.

Conway was Secretary of State 1765 to 1768.) (Latitude 20 degrees 30

minutes, Longitude 211 degrees 28 minutes), and the bay, Repulse Bay,

which is formed by these 2 Capes. The greatest and least depth of Water

we found in it was 13 and 8 fathoms; every where safe Anchoring, and I

believe, was it properly examined, there would be found some good Harbour

in it, especIally on the North Side within Cape Conway, for just within

the Cape lay 2 or 3 Small Islands, which alone would shelter that side of

the Bay from the South-East and Southerly winds, which seem to be the

prevailing or Trade Winds. Among the many islands that lay upon this

Coast there is one more Remarkable than the rest,* (* Probably Blacksmith

Island.) being of a Small circuit, very high and peaked, and lies East by

South, 10 Miles from Cape Conway at the South end of the Passage above

mention'd.

[In Whitsunday Passage, Queensland.]

Monday, 4th. Winds at South-South-East and South-East, a Gentle breeze

and Clear weather. In the P.M. Steerd thro' the passage* (* Whitsunday

Passage. The aspect of the shores is very pleasing.) which we found from

3 to 6 or 7 Miles broad, and 8 or 9 Leagues in length, North by West 1/2

West and South by East 1/2 East. It is form'd by the Main on the West,

and by Islands on the East, one of which is at least 5 Leagues in length.

Our Depth of Water in running thro' was between 25 and 20 fathoms;

everywhere good Anchorage; indeed the whole passage is one Continued safe

Harbour, besides a Number of small Bays and Coves on each side, where

ships might lay as it where in a Bason; at least so it appear'd to me,

for I did not wait to Examine it, as having been in Port so lately, and

being unwilling to loose the benefit of a light Moon. The land, both on

the Main and Islands, especially on the former, is Tolerably high, and

distinguished by Hills and Vallies, which are diversified with Woods and

Lawns that looked green and pleasant. On a Sandy beach upon one of the

Islands we saw 2 people and a Canoe, with an outrigger, which appeared to

be both Larger and differently built to any we have seen upon the Coast.

At 6 we were nearly the length of the North end of the Passage; the North

Westermost point of the Main in sight bore North 54 degrees West, and the

North end of the Island North-North-East, having an open Sea between

these 2 points. [This passage I have named Whitsundays Passage, as it was

discover'd on the day the Church commemorates that Festival, and the

Isles which form it Cumberland Isles, in honour of His Royal Highness the

Duke of Cumberland.* (* Henry Frederick, Duke of Cumberland, was a

younger brother of George III.)] We keept under an Easey Sail and the

Lead going all Night, having 21, 22, and 23 fathoms, at the distance of 3

Leagues from the land. At daylight A.M. we were abreast of the point

above mentioned, which is a lofty promontory; that I named Cape

Gloucester* (* William Henry, Duke of Gloucester and Edinburgh, a younger

brother of George III.) (Latitude 19 degrees 57 minutes South, Longitude

211 degrees 54 minutes West). It may be known by an Island which lies out

at Sea North by West 1/2 West, 5 or 6 Leagues from it; this I called

Holbourn Isle.* (* Admiral Francis Holbourne commanded the fleet in North

America in which Cook served in 1757.) There are also Islands laying

under the Land between it and Whitsundays Passage. On the West side of

the Cape the Land Trends away South-West and South-South-West, and forms

a deep bay. The Sand in the bottom of this bay I could but just see from

the Masthead; it is very low, and is a Continuation of the same low land

as is at the bottom of Repulse Bay. Without Waiting to look into this

bay, which I called Edgcumbe Bay,* (* In Port Denison, on the western

side of Edgcumbe Bay, is the rising town of Bowen, the port of an

agricultural district. There is good coal in the vicinity. Captain G.

Edgcumbe commanded the Lancaster in the fleet in North America in 1758 in

which Cook served. Afterwards Earl of Mount Edgcumbe.) we continued our

Course to the Westward for the Westermost land we had in sight which bore

from us West by North 1/2 North, and appeared very high. At Noon we were

about 3 Leagues from the Land, and by observation in the Latitude of 19

degrees 47 minutes South, Cape Gloucester bearing South 63 degrees East,

distant 7 1/2 Leagues.

Tuesday, 5th. Winds between the South and East, a Gentle breeze, and

Serene weather. At 6 a.m. we were abreast of the Western point of Land

above mentioned, distant from it 3 Miles, which I have named Cape

Upstart, because being surrounded with low land it starts or rises up

singley at the first making of it (Latitude 19 degrees 39 minutes South,

Longitude 212 degrees 32 minutes West); it lies West-North-West 14

Leagues from Cape Gloucester, and is of a height sufficient to be seen 12

Leagues; but it is not so much of a Promontory as it appears to be,

because on each side of it near the Sea is very low land, which is not to

be seen unless you are pretty well in with the Shore. Inland are some

Tolerable high hills or mountains, which, like the Cape, affords but a

very barren prospect. Having past this Cape, we continued standing to the

West-North-West as the land lay, under an easey Sail, having from 16 to

10 fathoms, until 2 o'Clock a.m., when we fell into 7 fathoms, upon which

we hauled our wind to the Northward, judging ourselves to be very near

the land; as so we found, for at daylight we were little more than 2

Leagues off. What deceived us was the Lowness of the land, which is but

very little higher than the Surface of the Sea, but in the Country were

some hills. At noon we were in 15 fathoms Water, and about 4 Leagues from

the land. Our Latitude by Observation was 19 degrees 12 minutes South;

Cape Upstart bore 38 degrees 30 minutes East, distant 12 Leagues. Course

and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon North 48 degrees 45 minutes, 53

Miles. At and before Noon some very large smokes were Seen rise up out of

the low land. At sun rise I found the Variation to be 5 degrees 35

minutes Easterly; at sun set last night the same Needle gave near 9

degrees. This being Close under Cape Upstart, I judged that it was owing

to Iron ore or other Magnetical Matter Lodged in the Earth.

[Off Cleveland Bay, Queensland.]

Wednesday, 6th. Light Airs at East-South-East, with which we Steer'd

West-North-West as the Land now lay; Depth of Water 12 and 14 fathoms. At

Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 19 degrees 1 minute South,

Longitude made from Cape Gloucester 1 degree 30 minutes West; Course and

distance saild since Yesterday noon West-North-West, 28 Miles. In this

situation we had the Mouth of a Bay all open extending from South 1/2

East to South-West 1/2 South, distance 2 Leagues. This bay, which I named

Cleveland Bay,* (* In Cleveland Bay is Townsville, the largest town in

Northern Queensland. Population 12,000.) appeared to be about 5 or 6

Miles in Extent every way. The East point I named Cape Cleveland, and the

West, Magnetical Head or Island, as it had much the appearance of an

Island; and the Compass did not traverse well when near it. They are both

Tolerable high, and so is the Main Land within them, and the whole

appeared to have the most rugged, rocky, and barren Surface of any we

have yet seen. However, it is not without inhabitants, as we saw smoke in

several places in the bottom of the bay. The Northermost land we had in

sight at this time bore North-West; this we took to be an Island or

Islands, for we could not trace the Main land farther than West by North.

Thursday, 7th. Light Airs between the South and East, with which we

steer'd West-North-West, keeping the Main land on board, the outermost

part of which at sun set bore from us West by North; but without this lay

high land, which we took to be Islands. At daylight A.M. we were the

Length of the Eastern part of this Land, which we found to Consist of a

Group of Islands* (* Palm Islands.) laying about 5 Leagues from the Main.

We being at this time between the 2, we continued advancing Slowly to the

North-West until noon, at which time we were by observation in the

Latitude of 18 degrees 49 minutes, and about 5 Leagues from the Main

land, the North-West part of which bore from us North by West 1/2 West,

the Island extending from North to East; distance of the nearest 2 Miles.

Cape Cleveland bore South 50 degrees East, distant 18 Leagues. Our

Soundings in the Course of this day's Sail were from 14 to 11 fathoms.

Friday, 8th. Winds at South-South-East and South; first part light Airs,

the remainder a Gentle breeze. In the P.M. we saw several large smokes

upon the Main, some people, Canoes, and, as we thought, Cocoa Nut Trees

upon one of the Islands; and, as a few of these Nutts would have been

very acceptable to us at this Time, I sent Lieutenant Hicks ashore, with

whom went Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to see what was to be got. In the

Meantime we keept Standing in for the Island with the Ship. At 7 they

returned on board, having met with Nothing worth Observing. The Trees we

saw were a small kind of Cabbage Palms. They heard some of the Natives as

they were putting off from the Shore, but saw none. After the Boat was

hoisted in we stood away North by West for the Northermost land we had in

sight, which we were abreast of at 3 o'Clock in the Morning, having

passed all the Islands 3 or 4 hours before. This point I have named Point

Hillock,* (* Point Hillock is the east point of Hinchinbrook Island,

which is separated from the main by a narrow and tortuous channel.) on

account of its Figure. The Land of this point is Tolerable high, and may

be known by a round Hillock or rock that appears to be detached from the

point, but I believe it joins to it. Between this Cape and Cape Cleveland

the shore forms a Large bay, which I named Hallifax bay;* (* The Earl of

Halifax was Secretary of State 1763 to 1765.) before it lay the Groups of

Islands before mentioned, and some others nearer the Shore. These Islands

shelter the Bay in a manner from all Winds, in which is good Anchorage.

The land near the Shore in the bottom of the bay is very low and Woody;

but a little way back in the Country is a continued ridge of high land,

which appear'd to be barren and rocky. Having passed Point Hillock, we

continued standing to the North-North-West as the land Trended, having

the Advantage of a light Moon. At 6 a.m. we were abreast of a point of

Land which lies North by West 1/2 West, 11 Miles from Point Hillick; the

Land between them is very high, and of a craggy, barren surface. This

point I named Cape Sandwich;* (* Earl of Sandwich was First Lord of the

Admiralty 1763.) it may not only be known by the high, craggy land over

it, but by a small Island which lies East one Mile from it, and some

others about 2 Leagues to the Northward of it. From Cape Sandwich the

Land trends West, and afterwards North, and forms a fine, Large Bay,

which I called Rockingham Bay;* (* The Marquis of Rockingham was Prime

Minister 1765 to 1766.) it is well Shelter'd, and affords good Anchorage;

at least, so it appear'd to me, for having met with so little

encouragement by going ashore that I would not wait to land or examine it

farther, but continued to range along Shore to the Northward for a parcel

of Small Islands* (* The Family Islands.) laying off the Northern point

of the Bay, and, finding a Channel of a Mile broad between the 3

Outermost and those nearer the Shore, we pushed thro'. While we did this

we saw on one of the nearest Islands a Number of the Natives collected

together, who seem'd to look very attentively upon the Ship; they were

quite naked, and of a very Dark Colour, with short hair. At noon we were

by observation in the Latitude of 17 degrees 59 minutes, and abreast of

the North point of Rockingham Bay, which bore from us West 2 Miles. This

boundry of the Bay is form'd by a Tolerable high Island, known in the

Chart by the Name of Dunk Isle; it lays so near the Shore as not to be

distinguished from it unless you are well in with the Land. At this time

we were in the Longitude of 213 degrees 57 minutes. Cape Sandwich bore

South by East 1/2 East, distant 19 Miles, and the northermost land in

sight North 1/2 West. Our depth of Water in the Course of this day's Sail

was not more than 16, nor less than 7, fathoms.* (* About here the Great

Barrier Reefs begin to close in on the land. Cook kept so close to the

latter that he was unconscious as yet of their existence; but he was soon

to find them.)

[Anchored near Cape Grafton, Queensland.]

Saturday, 9th. Winds between the South and South-East, a Gentle breeze,

and Clear weather, with which we steer'd North by West as the land lay,

the northern extream of which at sunset bore North 25 degrees West. We

keept on our Course under an Easey sail all night, having from 12 to 16

fathoms, at the distance of about 3 or 4 Leagues from the Land. At 6 a.m.

we were abreast of Some small Islands, which we called Frankland Isles,

that lay about 2 Leagues from the Mainland, the Northern Point of which

in sight bore North by West 1/2 West; but this we afterwards found to be

an Island,* (* Fitzroy Island.) tolerable high, and about 4 Miles in

Circuit. It lies about 2 Miles from the Point on the Main between which

we went with the ship, and were in the Middle of the Channell at Noon,

and by observation in the Latitude of 16 degrees 55 minutes, where we had

20 fathoms of water. The point of land we were now abreast of I called

Cape Grafton* (* The Duke of Grafton was Prime Minister when Cook

sailed.) (Latitude 16 degrees 55 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 11

minutes West); it is Tolerable high, and so is the whole Coast for 20

Leagues to the southward, and hath a very rocky surface, which is thinly

cover'd with wood. In the night we saw several fires along shore, and a

little before noon some people.

Sunday, 10th. After hauling round Cape Grafton we found the land trend

away North-West by West; 3 Miles to the Westward of the Cape is a Bay,

wherein we Anchor'd, about 2 Miles from the Shore, in 4 fathoms, owsey

bottom. The East point of the Bay bore South 74 degrees East, the West

point South 83 degrees West, and a Low green woody Island laying in the

Offing bore North 35 degrees East. The Island lies North by East 1/2

East, distance 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Grafton, and is known in the

Chart by the Name of Green Island. As soon as the Ship was brought to an

Anchor I went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; the

first thing I did was to look for fresh Water, and with that View rowed

out towards the Cape, because in the bottom of the bay was low Mangrove

land, and little probability of meeting with any there. But the way I

went I found 2 Small streams, which were difficult to get at on account

of the Surf and rocks upon the Shore. As we came round the Cape we saw,

in a sandy Cove, a small stream of Water run over the beach; but here I

did not go in the boat because I found that it would not be Easey to

land. We hardly advanced anything into the Country, it being here hilly,

which were steep and rocky, and we had not time to Visit the Low lands,

and therefore met with nothing remarkable. My intention was to have

stay'd here at least one day, to have looked into the Country had we met

with fresh water convenient, or any other Refreshment; but as we did not,

I thought it would be only spending of time, and loosing as much of a

light Moon to little purpose, and therefore at 12 o'Clock at night we

weighed and stood away to the North-West, having at this time but little

wind, attended with Showers of rain.* (* In the next bay west of where

Cook anchored is Cairns, a small but rising town in the centre of a

sugar-growing district.) At 4 the breeze freshned at South by East, with

fair weather; we continued steering North-North-West 1/2 West as the Land

lay, having 10, 12, and 14 fathoms, at a distance of 3 Leagues from the

Land. At 11 we hauld off North, in order to get without a Small Low

Island* (* Low Isles. There is now a lighthouse on them.) which lay about

2 Leagues from the Main; it being about high Water, about the time we

passed it, great part of it lay under water. About 3 Leagues to the North

Westward of this Island, close under the Main land, is another Island,*

(* Snapper Island.) Tolerable high, which bore from us at Noon North 55

degrees West, distant 7 or 8 Miles; we being at this time in the Latitude

of 16 degrees 20 minutes South, Cape Grafton bore South 29 degrees East,

distant 40 Miles, and the Northermost point of Land in Sight North 20

degrees West, and in this Situation had 15 fathoms Water. The Shore

between Cape Grafton and the above Northern point forms a large but not

very deep Bay, which I named Trinity Bay, after the day on which it was

discover'd; the North point Cape Tribulation, because here began all our

Troubles. Latitude 16 degrees 6 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 39

minutes West.

[The Ship Aground on Endeavour Reef.]

Monday, 11th. Wind at East-South-East, with which we steer'd along shore

North by West at the distance of 3 or 4 Leagues off, having from 14 to 10

and 12 fathoms water. Saw 2 Small Islands in the Offing, which lay in the

Latitude of 16 degrees 0 minutes South, and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the

Main. At 6 the Northermost land in sight bore North by West 1/2 West, and

2 low, woody Islands,* (* Hope Islands.) which some took to be rocks

above Water, bore North 1/2 West. At this time we shortened Sail, and

hauld off shore East-North-East and North-East by East, close upon a

Wind. My intention was to stretch off all Night as well to avoid the

danger we saw ahead as to see if any Islands lay in the Offing,

especially as we now begun to draw near the Latitude of those discover'd

by Quiros, which some Geographers, for what reason I know not, have

thought proper to Tack to this land. Having the advantage of a fine

breeze of wind, and a clear Moon light Night in standing off from 6 until

near 9 o Clock, we deepned our Water from 14 to 21 fathoms, when all at

once we fell into 12, 10 and 8 fathoms. At this time I had everybody at

their Stations to put about and come to an Anchor; but in this I was not

so fortunate, for meeting again with Deep Water, I thought there could be

no danger in standing on.* (* The ship passed just northward of

Pickersgill Reef.) Before 10 o'Clock we had 20 and 21 fathoms, and

Continued in that depth until a few minutes before 11, when we had 17,

and before the Man at the Lead could heave another cast, the Ship Struck

and stuck fast. Immediately upon this we took in all our Sails, hoisted

out the Boats and Sounded round the Ship, and found that we had got upon

the South-East Edge of a reef of Coral Rocks, having in some places round

the Ship 3 and 4 fathoms Water, and in other places not quite as many

feet, and about a Ship's length from us on the starboard side (the Ship

laying with her Head to the North-East) were 8, 10, and 12 fathoms. As

soon as the Long boat was out we struck Yards and Topmast, and carried

out the Stream Anchor on our Starboard bow, got the Coasting Anchor and

Cable into the Boat, and were going to carry it out in the same way; but

upon my sounding the 2nd time round the Ship I found the most water a

Stern, and therefore had this Anchor carried out upon the Starboard

Quarter, and hove upon it a very great Strain; which was to no purpose,

the Ship being quite fast, upon which we went to work to lighten her as

fast as possible, which seem'd to be the only means we had left to get

her off. As we went ashore about the Top of High Water we not only

started water, but threw overboard our Guns, Iron and Stone Ballast,

Casks, Hoop Staves, Oil Jarrs, decay'd Stores, etc.; many of these last

Articles lay in the way at coming at Heavier. All this time the Ship made

little or no Water. At 11 a.m., being high Water as we thought, we try'd

to heave her off without Success, she not being afloat by a foot or more,

notwithstanding by this time we had thrown overboard 40 or 50 Tuns

weight. As this was not found sufficient we continued to Lighten her by

every method we could think off; as the Tide fell the ship began to make

Water as much as two pumps could free: at Noon she lay with 3 or 4

Streakes heel to Starboard; Latitude observed 15 degrees 45 minutes

South.

Tuesday, 12th. Fortunately we had little wind, fine weather, and a smooth

Sea, all this 24 Hours, which in the P.M. gave us an Opportunity to carry

out the 2 Bower Anchors, one on the Starboard Quarter, and the other

right a Stern, got Blocks and Tackles upon the Cables, brought the falls

in abaft and hove taught. By this time it was 5 o'Clock p.m.; the tide we

observed now begun to rise, and the leak increased upon us, which obliged

us to set the 3rd Pump to work, as we should have done the 4th also, but

could not make it work. At 9 the Ship righted, and the Leak gain'd upon

the Pumps considerably. This was an alarming and, I may say, terrible

circumstance, and threatened immediate destruction to us. However, I

resolv'd to risque all, and heave her off in case it was practical, and

accordingly turn'd as many hands to the Capstan and Windlass as could be

spared from the Pumps; and about 20 Minutes past 10 o'Clock the Ship

floated, and we hove her into Deep Water, having at this time 3 feet 9

Inches Water in the hold. This done I sent the Long boat to take up the

Stream Anchor, got the Anchor, but lost the Cable among the Rocks; after

this turn'd all hands to the Pumps, the Leak increasing upon us.

A mistake soon after hapned, which for the first time caused fear to

approach upon every man in the Ship. The man that attended the well took

the Depth of water above the Ceiling; he, being relieved by another who

did not know in what manner the former had sounded, took the Depth of

water from the outside plank, the difference being 16 or 18 inches, and

made it appear that the leak had gained this upon the pumps in a short

time. This mistake was no sooner cleared up than it acted upon every man

like a Charm; they redoubled their vigour, insomuch that before 8 o'clock

in the morning they gained considerably upon the leak.* (* The

circumstance related in this paragraph is from the Admiralty copy.) We

now hove up the Best Bower, but found it impossible to save the small

Bower, so cut it away at a whole Cable; got up the Fore topmast and

Foreyard, warped the Ship to the South-East, and at 11 got under sail,

and stood in for the land, with a light breeze at East-South-East. Some

hands employ'd sewing Oakham, Wool, etc., into a Lower Steering sail to

fother the Ship; others employ'd at the Pumps, which still gain'd upon

the Leak.

[Fothering the Ship.]

Wednesday, 13th. In the P.M. had light Airs at East-South-East, with

which we keept edging in for the Land. Got up the Maintopmast and

Mainyard, and having got the Sail ready for fothering of the Ship, we put

it over under the Starboard Fore Chains, where we suspected the Ship had

suffer'd most, and soon after the Leak decreased, so as to be keept clear

with one Pump with ease; this fortunate circumstance gave new life to

every one on board.

It is much easier to conceive than to discribe the satisfaction felt by

everybody on this occasion. But a few minutes before our utmost Wishes

were to get hold of some place upon the Main, or an island, to run the

Ship ashore, where out of her Materials we might build a Vessel to carry

us to the East Indies; no sooner were we made sencible that the outward

application to the Ship's bottom had taken effect, than the field of

every Man's hopes inlarged, so that we thought of nothing but ranging

along Shore in search of a Harbour, when we could repair the Damages we

had sustained.* (* The foregoing paragraph is from the Admiralty copy.

The situation was indeed sufficiently awkward. When it is considered that

the coast was wholly unknown, the natives decidedly hostile, the land

unproductive of any means of subsistence, and the distance to the nearest

Dutch settlements, even if a passage should be found south of New Guinea,

1500 miles, there was ample cause for apprehension if they could not save

the ship. Knowing what we now know, that all off this coast is a

continuous line of reefs and shoals, Cook's action in standing off might

seem rash. But he knew nothing of this. There was a moon; he reduced sail

to double reefed topsails with a light wind, as the log tells us, and

with the cumbrous hempen cables of the day, and the imperfect means of

heaving up the anchor, he was desirous of saving his men unnecessary

labour. Cook was puzzled that the next tide did not, after lightening the

ship, take him off; but it is now known that on this coast it is only

every alternate tide that rises to a full height, and as he got ashore

nearly at the top of the higher of the two waters he had to wait

twenty-four hours until he got a similar rise. Lucky was it for them that

the wind was light. Usually at this season the trade wind is strong, and

raises a considerable sea, even inside the Barrier. Hawkesworth or Banks

makes the proposition to fother the ship emanate from Mr. Monkhouse; but

it is scarcely to be supposed that such a perfect seaman as Cook was not

familiar with this operation, and he merely says that as Mr. Monkhouse

had seen it done, he confided to him the superintendence of it, as of

course the Captain had at such a time many other things to do than stand

over the men preparing the sail. In 1886 the people of Cooktown were

anxious to recover the brass guns of the Endeavour which were thrown

overboard, in order to place them as a memento in their town; but they

could not be found, which is not altogether surprising.) In justice to

the Ship's Company, I must say that no men ever behaved better than they

have done on this occasion; animated by the behaviour of every Gentleman

on board, every man seem'd to have a just sence of the Danger we were in,

and exerted himself to the very utmost. The Ledge of Rocks, or Shoal, we

have been upon, lies in the Latitude of 15 degrees 45 minutes, and about

6 or 7 Leagues from the Main land; but this is not the only Shoal that

lay upon this part of the Coast, especially to the Northward, and one

which we saw to the Southward, the tail of which we passed over when we

had the uneven Soundings 2 hours before we Struck. A part of this Shoal

is always above Water, and looks to be white Sand; part of the one we

were upon was dry at low Water, and in that place consists of Sand and

stones, but every where else Coral Rocks. At 6 we Anchored in 17 fathoms,

about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, and one from the Shoal. At this time

the Ship made about 15 Inches Water per hour. At 6 a.m. weigh'd and stood

to the North-West, edging in for the land, having a Gentle breeze at

South-South-East. At 9 we past close without 2 small low Islands, laying

in the Latitude of 15 degrees 41 minutes, and about 4 Leagues from the

Main; I have named them Hope Islands, because we were always in hopes of

being able to reach these Islands. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from

the Land, and in the Latitude of 15 degrees 37 minutes South; the

Northermost part of the Main in sight bore North 30 degrees West, and the

above Islands extending from South 30 degrees East to South 40 degrees

East. In this situation had 12 fathoms water and several sandbanks

without us. The Leak now decreaseth, but for fear it should break out

again we got the Sail ready fill'd for fothering; the manner this is done

is thus: We Mix Oacham and Wool together (but Oacham alone would do), and

chop it up Small, and then stick it loosely by handfulls all over the

Sail, and throw over it Sheep dung or other filth. Horse Dung for this

purpose is the best. The Sail thus prepared is hauld under the Ship's

bottom by ropes, and if the place of the Leak is uncertain, it must be

hauld from one part of her bottom to another until one finds the place

where it takes effect. While the Sail is under the Ship the Oacham, etc.,

is washed off, and part of it carried along with the water into the Leak,

and in part stops up the hole. Mr. Monkhouse, one of my Midshipmen, was

once in a Merchant Ship which Sprung a Leak, and made 48 Inches Water per

hour; but by this means was brought home from Virginia to London with

only her proper crew; to him I gave the direction of this, who executed

it very much to my satisfaction.

[In Endeavour River, Queensland.]

Thursday, 14th. P.M., had a Gentle breeze at South-East by East. Sent the

Master, with 2 Boats as well, to sound ahead of the Ship, as to look out

for a Harbour where we could repair our defects, and put the Ship on a

proper Trim, both of which she now very much wanted. At 3 saw an Opening

that had the appearance of a Harbour; stood off and on while the Boats

were examining it, who found that there was not a sufficient depth of

Water for the Ship. By this time it was almost sun set, and seeing many

shoals about us we Anchored in 4 fathoms about 2 miles from the Shore,

the Main land extending from North 1/2 East to South by East 1/2 East. At

8 o'clock the Pinnace, in which was one of the Mates, return'd on board,

and reported that they had found a good Harbour* (* Cook Harbour,

Endeavour River.) about 2 Leagues to leeward. In consequence of this

information we, at 6 a.m., weigh'd and run down to it, first sending 2

Boats ahead to lay upon the Shoals that lay in our way; and

notwithstanding this precaution, we were once in 3 fathoms with the Ship.

Having pass'd these Shoals, the Boats were sent to lay in the Channell

leading into the Harbour. By this time it begun to blow in so much that

the Ship would not work, having missed stays Twice; and being entangled

among Shoals, I was afraid of being drove to Leeward before the Boats

could place themselves, and therefore Anchoredd in 4 fathoms about a Mile

from the Shore, and then made the Signal for the Boats to come on board,

after which I went myself and Buoy'd the Channell, which I found very

narrow, and the Harbour much smaller than I had been told, but very

convenient for our Purpose. At Noon Latitude observed 15 degrees 26

minutes South. [Note. This day I restor'd Mr. Magra to his Duty, as I did

not find him guilty of the crimes laid to his charge.]

Friday, 15th. A fresh Gale at South-East and Cloudy weather, attended

with Showers of Rain. In the Night, as it blow'd too fresh to break the

Ship loose to run into the Harbour, we got down the Topgallant yards,

unbent the Mainsail, and some of the Small sails; got down the

Foretopgallant mast, and the Jibb Boom and Spritsailyard in, intending to

lighten the Ship Forward as much as possible, in order to lay her ashore

to come at the Leak.

Saturday, 16th. Strong Gales at South-East, and Cloudy, hazey weather,

with Showers of Rain. At 6 o'Clock in the A.M. it moderated a little, and

we hove short, intending to get under sail, but was obliged to desist,

and veer away again; some people were seen ashore to-day.

Sunday, 17th. Most part strong Gales at South-East, with some heavy

showers of rain in the P.M. At 6 a.m., being pretty moderate, we weigh'd

and run into the Harbour, in doing of which we run the Ship ashore Twice.

The first time she went off without much Trouble, but the Second time she

Stuck fast; but this was of no consequence any farther than giving us a

little trouble, and was no more than what I expected as we had the wind.

While the Ship lay fast we got down the Foreyard, Foretopmast, booms,

etc., overboard, and made a raft of them alongside.

Monday, 18th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with Showers of Rain. At 1 p.m. the

Ship floated, and we warped her into the Harbour, and moor'd her

alongside of a Steep Beach on the South side; got the Anchors, Cables,

and all the Hawsers ashore. In the A.M. made a Stage from the Ship to the

Shore, Erected 2 Tents, one for the Sick, and the other for the Stores

and Provisions; Landed all the empty Casks and part of the Provisions,

and sent a boat to haul the Sean, which return'd without Success.

Tuesday, 19th. Fresh Gales at South-East and Cloudy weather, with

frequent showers of Rain. P.M., landed all the Provisions and Part of the

Stores; got the Sick ashore, which amounted, at this time, to 8 or 9,

afflicted with different disorders, but none very dangerously ill. This

afternoon I went upon one of the highest Hills over the Harbour, from

which I had a perfect View of the inlet or River, and adjacent country,

which afforded but a very indifferent prospect. The Low lands near the

River is all over run with Mangroves, among which the salt water flows

every tide, and the high land appear'd to be barren and Stoney. A.M., got

the 4 remaining Guns out of the hold, and mounted them on the Quarter

Deck; got a spare Anchor and Stock ashore, and the remaining part of the

Stores and ballast that were in the Hold; set up the Forge, and set the

Armourer and his Mate to work to make Nails, etc., to repair the Ship.

Wednesday, 20th. Winds at South-East, a fresh breeze, Fore and Middle

parts rainy, the Latter fair. This day got out all the Officers' stores

and the ground Tier of Water, having now nothing in the Fore and Main

Hold But the Coals and a little Stone ballast.

Thursday, 21st. P.M., landed the Powder, got out the stone ballast, wood,

etc., which brought the Ship's Draught of water to 8 feet 10 inches

Forward, and 13 feet abaft. This I thought, by trimming the Coals aft,

would be sufficient, as I find the Tides will rise and fall upon a

Perpendicular 8 feet at Spring tides; but after the Coals was trimm'd

away from over the Leak we Could hear the Water come Gushing in a little

abaft the Foremast about 3 feet from her Keel. This determin'd me to

clear the hold intirely; accordingly very early in the Morning we went to

work to get out the Coals, which was Employment for all hands.

[Ship Beached in Endeavour River.]

Friday, 22nd. Winds at South-East, fair weather. At 4 p.m., having got

out most of the Coals, cast loose the Ship's moorings, and warped her a

little higher up the Harbour to a place I had pitched upon to lay her

ashore to stop the Leak; draught of water Forward 7 feet 9 inches and

abaft 13 feet 6 inches. At 8, being high water, hauld her bow close

ashore, but Keept her stern afloat, because I was afraid of Neaping her,*

(* I.e., Having her so far on shore that they could not heave her off at

Neap tide.) and yet it was necessary to lay the whole of her as near the

ground as possible.* (* The town of Cooktown now stands where the

Endeavour was beached, and the (as near as can be judged) exact spot is

marked by a monument.) At 2 a.m. the Tide left her, which gave us an

Opportunity to Examine the Leak, which we found to be at her Floor Heads,

a little before the Starboard Fore Chains; here the Rocks had made their

way thro' 4 planks, quite to, and even into the Timbers, and wounded 3

more. The manner these planks were damaged--or cut out, as I may say--is

hardly credible; scarce a Splinter was to be seen, but the whole was cut

away as if it had been done by the Hands of Man with a blunt-edge Tool.

Fortunately for us the Timbers in this place were very close; other wise

it would have been impossible to have saved the Ship, and even as it was

it appeared very extraordinary that she made no more water than what she

did. A large peice of Coral rock was sticking in one Hole, and several

peices of the Fothering, small stones, etc., had made its way in, and

lodged between the Timbers, which had stopped the Water from forcing its

way in in great Quantities. Part of the Sheathing was gone from under the

Larboard bow, part of the False Kiel was gone, and the remainder in such

a Shatter'd Condition that we should be much better off if it was gone

also; her Forefoot and some part of her Main Kiel was also damaged, but

not Materially. What damage she may have received abaft we could not see,

but believe not much, as the Ship makes but little water, while the Tide

Keeps below the Leak forward. At 9 the Carpenters went to work upon the

Ship, while the Armourers were buisy making Bolts, Nails, etc.

Saturday, 23rd. Winds South Easterly, a fresh Gale and fair weather.

Carpenters employed Shifting the Damaged planks as long as the tide would

permit them to work. At low water P.M. we examined the Ship's bottom

under the Starboard side, she being dry as far aft as the After-part of

the Fore Chains; we could not find that she had received any other damage

on this side but what has been mentioned. In the morning I sent 3 Men

into the Country to shoot Pidgeons, as some of these birds had been seen

flying about; in the evening they return'd with about 1/2 a Dozen. One of

the Men saw an Animal something less than a greyhound; it was of a Mouse

Colour, very slender made, and swift of Foot.* (* Kangaroo.) A.M., I sent

a Boat to haul the Sean, who return'd at noon, having made 3 Hauls and

caught only 3 fish; and yet we see them in plenty Jumping about the

harbour, but can find no method of catching them.

Sunday, 24th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. P.M., the Carpenters

finished the Starboard side, and at 9 heeld the Ship the other way, and

hauld her off about 2 feet for fear of Neaping. In the A.M. they went to

work repairing the Sheathing under the Larboard bow, where we found 2

planks cut about half thro'. Early in the morning I sent a party of Men

into the Country under the direction of Lieutenant Gore to seek for

refreshments; they return'd about noon with a few Palm Cabbages and a

Bunch or 2 of wild Plantains; these last were much Smaller than any I had

ever seen, and the Pulp full of small Stones; otherwise they were well

tasted. I saw myself this morning, a little way from the Ship, one of the

Animals before spoke off; it was of a light mouse Colour and the full

size of a Grey Hound, and shaped in every respect like one, with a long

tail, which it carried like a Grey hound; in short, I should have taken

it for a wild dog but for its walking or running, in which it jump'd like

a Hare or Deer. Another of them was seen to-day by some of our people,

who saw the first; they described them as having very small Legs, and the

print of the Feet like that of a Goat; but this I could not see myself

because the ground the one I saw was upon was too hard, and the length of

the Grass hindered my seeing its legs.* (* These kangaroos were the first

seen by Europeans. The name was obtained from the natives by Mr. Banks.)

Monday, 25th. At low water in the P.M. While the Carpenters were buisey

in repairing the Sheathing and plank under the Larboard bow I got people

to go under the Ship's bottom, to examine all her Larboard side, she only

being dry Forward, but abaft were 9 feet water. They found part of the

Sheathing off abreast of the Mainmast about her floor heads, and a part

of one plank a little damaged. There were 3 people who went down, who all

agreed in the same Story; the Master was one, who was positive that she

had received no Material Damage besides the loss of the Sheathing. This

alone will be sufficient to let the worm into her bottom, which may prove

of bad consequence. However, we must run all risque, for I know of no

method to remedy this but by heaving her down, which would be a work of

Emence Labour and time, if not impractical in our present situation.

The Carpenters continued hard at work under her bottom until put off by

the Tide in the evening, and the morning Tide did not Ebb out far enough

to permit them to work upon her, for here we have only one Tolerable low

and high tide in 24 Hours. A.M., a party of Men were employ'd ashore

filling water, while others were employ'd overhauling the rigging.

Tuesday, 26th. Fair weather, a South-East wind, and a fresh Gale; at low

Water P.M. the Carpenters finished under the Larboard bow and every other

place the tide would permit them to come at. Lashed some Casks under the

Ship's bows in order to help to float her, and at high water in the Night

attempted to heave her off, but could not, she not being afloat partly

owing to some of the Casks not holding that were Lashed under her. A.M.,

employed getting more Casks ready for the same purpose; but I am much

afraid that we shall not be able to float her now the Tides are Taking

off.

Wednesday, 27th. A fresh breeze of Wind at South-East and Cloudy weather.

P.M., lashed 38 empty Butts under the Ship's Bottom in order to float her

off, which proved ineffectual, and therefore gave over all hopes of

getting her off until the Next spring tides. At daylight we got a

Considerable weight of sundry Articles from Aft forward to ease the Ship;

the Armourer at work at the Forge repairing Iron work, etc., Carpenters

caulking and Stocking one of the Spare Anchors, Seamen employ'd filling

of Water and overhauling the rigging, and I went in the pinnace up the

Harbour, and made several hauls with the Sean, but caught only between 20

and 30 pound of fish, which were given to the sick and such as were weak

and Ailing.

Thursday, 28th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy. All hands employ'd as

Yesterday.

Friday, 29th. Wind and weather as Yesterday, and the employment of the

People the same, Lieutenant Gore having been 4 or 5 miles in the Country,

where he met with nothing remarkable. He saw the footsteps of Men, and

likewise those of 3 or 4 sorts of wild beasts, but saw neither Man nor

beast. Some others of our people who were out Yesterday on the North side

of the River met with a place where the Natives have just been, as their

fires was then burning; but they saw nobody, nor have we seen one since

we have been in port. In these excursions we found some Wild Yamms or

Cocos growing in the Swampy grounds, and this Afternoon I sent a Party of

Men to gather some. The Tops we found made good greens, and eat

exceedingly well when Boil'd, but the roots were so bad that few besides

myself could eat them. This night Mr. Green and I observ'd an Emersion of

Jupiter's first Satellite, which hapned at 2 hours 58 minutes 53 seconds

in the A.M.; the same Emersion hapnd at Greenwich, according to

Calculation, on the 30th at 5 hours 17 minutes 43 seconds A.M. The

differance is 14 hours 18 minutes 50 seconds, equal to 214 degrees 42

minutes 30 seconds of Longitude,* (* This was an excellent observation.

The true longitude is 214 degrees 45 minutes.) which this place is West

of Greenwich, and its Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes South. A.M., I sent

some hands in a Boat up the River to haul the Sean, while the rest were

employ'd about the rigging and sundry other Dutys.

Saturday, 30th. Moderate breezes at South-East, and clear serene weather.

P.M., the Boat returned from hauling the Sean, having caught as much fish

as came to a pound and a half a Man. A.M., I sent her again to haul the

Sean, and some hands to gather greens, while others were employ'd about

the rigging, etc., etc. I likewise sent some of the Young Gentlemen to

take a plan of the Harbour, and went myself upon the hill, which is near

the South point to take a view of the Sea.* (* Grassy Hill.) At this time

it was low water, and I saw what gave me no small uneasiness, which were

a Number of Sand Banks and Shoals laying all along the Coast; the

innermost lay about 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore, and the outermost

extended off to Sea as far as I could see without my glass, some just

appeared above water.* (* These were the innermost reefs of the Great

Barrier. There is a tolerably clear passage about 8 miles wide between

them and the shore, though this has some small shoals in it.) The only

hopes I have of getting clear of them is to the Northward, where there

seems to be a Passage, for as the wind blows constantly from the

South-East we shall find it difficult, if not impractical, to return to

the Southward.

[July 1770.]

Sunday, 1st July. Gentle breezes at South-East, and Cloudy weather, with

some Gentle Showers in the morning. P.M., the People return'd from

hauling the Sean, having caught as much fish as came to 2 1/2 pound per

Man, no one on board having more than another. The few Greens we got I

caused to be boil'd among the pease, and makes a very good Mess, which,

together with the fish, is a great refreshment to the people. A.M., a

party of Men, one from each Mess, went again a fishing, and all the rest

I gave leave to go into the Country, knowing that there was no danger

from the Natives. To-day at Noon the Thermometer in the Shade rose to 87

degrees, which is 2 or 3 Degrees higher than it hath been on any day

before in this place.

Monday, 2nd. Ditto weather. P.M., the fishing-party caught as much fish

as came to 2 pounds a Man. Those that were in the Country met with

nothing New. Early in the A.M. I sent the Master in the pinnace out of

the Harbour, to sound about the Shoals in the Offing and to look for a

Channel to the Northward. At this time we had a breeze of wind from the

land, which continued till about 9. What makes me mention this is, that

it is the first Land breeze we have had since we have been in this River.

At low water lashed empty Casks under the Ship's bows, being in some

hopes of floating her the next high Water, and sent some hands a fishing,

while others were employ'd in refitting the Ship.

Tuesday, 3rd. Winds at South-East, Fore and Middle part gentle breeze,

the remainder a fresh gale. In the evening the fishing Party return'd,

having got as much fish as came to 2 pounds a Man. At high water we

attempted to heave the Ship off, but did not succeed. At Noon the Master

return'd, and reported he had found a passage out to Sea between the

Shoals, which passage lies out East-North-East or East by North from the

River mouth. He found these Shoals to Consist of Coral Rocks; he landed

upon one, which drys at low Water, where he found very large cockles* (*

Tridacna.) and a Variety of other Shell fish, a quantity of which he

brought away with him. He told me that he was 5 Leagues out at Sea,

having at that distance 21 fathoms water, and judg'd himself to be

without all the Shoals, which I very much doubted.* (* Cook was right.

The shoals extend for four leagues farther.) After this he came in Shore,

and Stood to the Northward, where he met with a Number of Shoals laying a

little distance from the Shore. About 9 in the evening he landed in a Bay

about 3 Leagues to the Northward of this Place, where he disturbed some

of the Natives, whom he supposed to be at supper; they all fled upon his

approach, and Left him some fresh Sea Eggs, and a fire ready lighted

behind them; but there was neither House nor Hut near. Although these

Shoals lay within sight of the Coast, and abound very much with Shell

fish and other small fish, which are to be caught at Low water in holes

in the Rocks, yet the Natives never visit them, for if they did we must

have seen of these Large shells on shore about their fire places. The

reason I do suppose is, that they have no Boats that they dare Venture so

far out at Sea in.* (* Nevertheless the natives do get out to the islands

which lie farther from the shore than these reefs, as Cook himself

afterwards found.)

Wednesday, 4th. Strong gales at South-East and fair weather. P.M., the

fishing party return'd with the usual success; at High water hove the

ship Afloat. A.M., employ'd trimming her upon an even Kiel, intending to

lay her ashore once more, to come at her bottom under the Larboard Main

Chains.

Thursday, 5th. Strong breezes at South-East and fair weather. P.M. Warped

the Ship over, and at high Water laid her ashore on the Sandbank on the

South side of the River, for I was afraid to lay her broad side to the

Shore where she lay before, because the ground lies upon too great a

decent, and she hath already received some Damage by laying there these

last Niep Tides, at least she still makes water.

[At Anchor, Endeavour River.]

Friday, 6th. Ditto weather. At low water in the P.M. had hardly 4 feet

water under the Ship; yet could not repair the Sheathing that was beat

off, the place being all under water. One of the Carpenter's crew, a Man

I could trust, went down and Examin'd it, and found 3 Streakes of the

Sheathing gone about 7 or 8 feet long, and the Main Plank a little

rubbed; this account agrees with the report of the Master and others that

were under her bottom before. The Carpenter, who I look upon to be well

skill'd in his profession, and a good judge in these matters, was of

Opinion that this was of little consequence; and as I found that it would

be difficult, if not impractical, for us to get under her bottom to

repair it, I resolved to spend no more time about it. Accordingly at high

water hove her off, and moor'd her alongside the beach, where the Stores,

etc., lay, and in the A.M. got everything in readiness for taking them on

board, and at the same time got on board 8 Tuns of Water, and stow'd in

the ground Tier in the after Hold. In the Morning Mr. Banks and

Lieutenant Gore with 3 Men went in a small Boat up the Harbour, with a

View to stay 2 or 3 days to try to Kill some of the Animals we have seen

about this place.

Saturday, 7th. Fresh breezes at South-East and fair weather. Employ'd

getting on board Coals, Ballast, etc., and caulking the Ship; a work that

could not be done while she lay aground. The Armourer and his Mate are

Still employ'd at the Forge making and repairing sundry Articles in the

Iron way.

Sunday, 8th. Gentle breeze and South-East, and clear weather. Early I

sent the Master in a Boat out to Sea to sound again about the Shoals,

because the account he had given of the Channell before mentioned was to

me by no means Satisfactory; likewise sent some hands to haul the Sean,

who caught near 80 pounds of fish; the rest of the people I gave leave to

go into the Country.

Monday, 9th. In the Day Ditto Winds, but in the night Calm. P.M., Mr.

Gore and Mr. Banks return'd, having met with nothing remarkable; they

were about 3 or 4 Leagues up in the Country without finding hardly any

Variation either in the Soil or Produce. In the Evening the Master

return'd, having been several Leagues out at Sea, and at that Distance

off saw Shoals without him, and was of opinion there was no getting out

to Sea that way. In his return he touched upon one of the Shoals, the

same as he was upon the first time he was out; he here saw a great number

of Turtle, 3 of which he Caught weighing 791 pounds. This occasion'd my

sending him out again this morning provided with proper gear for Striking

them, he having before nothing but a Boat Hook. Carpenters, Smiths, and

Coopers at their respective Employments, and the Seamen employed getting

on board stones, ballast, etc. This day all hands feasted upon Turtle for

the First time.* (* As they had had nothing fresh but a little fish for

four months, and scarcely any meat since they left the Society Islands,

eleven months before, we can imagine that this was a feast.)

Tuesday, 10th. Winds and weather as yesterday. Employ'd hoisting on board

and stowing away the ground Tier of Water. P.M., saw 7 or 8 of the

Natives on the South side of the River, and 2 of them came down upon the

Sandy point opposite the Ship; but as soon as I put off in a Boat in

order to speak with them they run away as fast as they could. At 11 Mr.

Banks, who had gone out to Sea with Mr. Molineux, the Master, return'd in

his own Small Boat, and gave but a Very bad account of our

Turtlecatchers. At the time he left them, which was about 6 o'Clock, they

had not got one, nor were they likely to get any; and yet the Master was

so obstinate that he would not return,* (* This seems rather hard upon

the Master.) which obliged me to send Mr. Gore out in the Yawl this

morning to order the Boat and People in, in Case they could not be

employ'd there to some Advantage. In the A.M. 4 of the Natives came down

to the Sandy point on the North side of the Harbour, having along with

them a small wooden Canoe with Outriggers, in which they seem'd to be

employed striking fish, etc. Some were for going over in a Boat to them;

but this I would not suffer, but let them alone without seeming to take

any Notice of them. At length 2 of them came in the Canoe so near the

Ship as to take some things we throw'd them. After this they went away,

and brought over the other 2, and came again alongside, nearer than they

had done before, and took such Trifles as we gave them; after this they

landed close to the Ship, and all 4 went ashore, carrying their Arms with

them. But Tupia soon prevailed upon them to lay down their Arms, and come

and set down by him, after which most of us went to them, made them again

some presents, and stay'd by them until dinner time, when we made them

understand that we were going to eat, and asked them by signals to go

with us; but this they declined, and as soon as we left them they went

away in their Canoe. One of these Men was something above the Middle Age,

the other 3 were young; none of them were above 5 1/2 feet high, and all

their Limbs proportionately small. They were wholy naked, their Skins the

Colour of Wood soot, and this seem'd to be their Natural Colour. Their

Hair was black, lank, and cropt short, and neither wooly nor Frizled; nor

did they want any of their Fore Teeth, as Dampier has mentioned those did

he saw on the Western side of this Country. Some part of their Bodys had

been painted with red, and one of them had his upper lip and breast

painted with Streakes of white, which he called Carbanda. Their features

were far from being disagreeable; their Voices were soft and Tunable, and

they could easily repeat any word after us, but neither us nor Tupia

could understand one word they said.

Wednesday, 11th. Gentle land and Sea breezes. Employed Airing the Bread,

stowing away water, Stores, etc. In the night the Master and Mr. Gore

returned with the Long Boat, and brought with them one Turtle and a few

Shell fish; the Yawl Mr. Gore left upon the Shoal with 6 Men to endeavour

to strike more Turtle. In the morning 4 of the Natives made us another

Short Visit; 3 of them had been with us the preceeding day, the other was

a stranger. One of these men had a hole through the Bridge* (* The

cartilage of the nostril.) of his nose, in which he stuck a peice of Bone

as thick as my finger. Seeing this we examin'd all their Noses, and found

that they had all holes for the same purpose; they had likewise holes in

their Ears, but no Ornaments hanging to them; they had bracelets on their

Arms made of hair, and like Hoops of small Cord. They sometimes may wear

a kind of fillet about their Heads, for one of them had applied some part

of an old shirt which I had given them to this use.

Thursday, 12th. Winds and weather as Yesterday, and the Employment of the

People the same. At 2 A.M. the Yawl came on board, and brought 3 Turtle

and a large Skeat, and as there was a probability of succeeding in this

kind of fishery, I sent her out again after breakfast. About this time 5

of the Natives came over and stay'd with us all the Forenoon. There were

7 in all--5 Men, 1 Woman, and a Boy; these 2 last stay'd on the point of

Land on the other side of the River about 200 Yards from us. We could

very clearly see with our Glasses that the Woman was as naked as ever she

was born; even those parts which I always before now thought Nature would

have taught a woman to Conceal were uncovered.

Friday, 13th. Gentle breezes from the South-East in day, and Calm or

light Airs from the Land in the Night. Employ'd taking on board water,

Stores, etc. At Noon the Yawl return'd with one Turtle and a large Sting

ray.

Saturday, 14th. Gentle breezes at South-East and Hazey weather. In the

P.M. compleated our water; got on board all the Bread, and part of our

Stores; in the evening sent the Turtlers out again. A.M., employ'd

getting on board stone ballast and Airing the spare Sails. Mr. Gore,

being in the Country, shott one of the Animals before spoke of; it was a

small one of the sort, weighing only 28 pound clear of the entrails; its

body was ----* (* Blank in manuscript.) long; the head, neck, and

Shoulders very Small in proportion to the other parts. It was hair lipt,

and the Head and Ears were most like a Hare's of any Animal I know; the

Tail was nearly as long as the body, thick next the Rump, and Tapering

towards the End; the fore Legs were 8 Inches long, and the Hind 22. Its

progression is by Hopping or Jumping 7 or 8 feet at each hop upon its

hind Legs only, for in this it makes no use of the Fore, which seem to be

only design'd for Scratching in the ground, etc. The Skin is cover'd with

a Short, hairy furr of a dark Mouse or Grey Colour. It bears no sort of

resemblance to any European animal I ever saw; it is said to bear much

resemblance to the Jerboa, excepting in size, the Jerboa being no larger

than a common rat.

Sunday, 15th. Gentle breezes at South-East and East. P.M., got on board

the Spare Sails and sundry other Articles. In the A.M., as the people did

not work upon the Ship, one of the Petty Officers was desirous of going

out to Catch Turtles. I let him have the Pinnace for that purpose, and

sent the Long boat to haul the Sean, who caught about 60 fish.

Monday, 16th. Fore and Latter parts gentle breezes at East-North-East; in

the night had light Airs and Calm. In the evening the Yawl came in with 4

Turtle and a Large Sting ray, and soon after went out again; but the

Pinnace did not return as I expected. A.M., employ'd getting on board

Cables; at the same time I went upon one of the high hills on the North

side of the River, from which I had an extensive view of the inland

Country, which consisted of hills, Valleys, and Large plains, agreeably

diversified with Woods and Lawns.

Tuesday, 17th. Wind at South-East, a fresh breeze; people employed as

yesterday setting up the rigging. In the evening the Pinnace returned

with 3 Turtles, 2 of which the Yawl caught and sent in. At 7 hours 41

minutes 17 seconds p.m. observ'd the first Satellite of Jupiter to

Emerge, and the same Emersion hapned at Greenwich at 10 hours 00 minutes

52 seconds in the a.m.; the difference is 14 hours 19 minutes 35 seconds

equal to 214 degrees 53 minutes 45 seconds of Longitude. The observation

made on the 29th of last Month gave 214 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds;

the mean is 214 degrees 48 minutes 7 1/2 seconds, which this place is

West of Greenwich.* (* As before mentioned, the true longitude is 214

degrees 45 minutes.)

Wednesday, 18th. Wind at East-South-East, a Gentle breeze. P.M., I sent

the Master and one of the Mates in the Pinnace to the Northward to look

for a Channell that way clear of the Shoal. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and

myself took a turn into the woods on the other side of the water, where

we met with 5 of the Natives; and although we had not seen any of them

before, they came to us without showing any signs of fear. 2 of these

wore Necklaces made of Shells, which they seem'd to Value, as they would

not part with them. In the evening the Yawl came in with 3 Turtle, and

early in the A.M. she went out again. About 8 we were Visited by several

of the Natives, who now became more familiar than ever. Soon after this

Mr. Banks and I went over to the South* (* This should be North.) side of

the River, and Travel'd 6 or 8 miles along shore to the Northward, where

we ascended a high hill, from whence I had an extensive view of the Sea

Coast; it afforded us a melancholy prospect of the difficulties we are to

encounter, for in whatever direction we looked it was cover'd with Shoals

as far as the Eye could see; after this we return'd to the Ship without

meeting with anything remarkable, and found several of the Natives on

board. At this time we had 12 tortoise or Turtle upon our Decks, which

they took more Notice of than anything Else in the Ship, as I was told by

the officers, for their Curiosity was Satisfied before I got on board,

and they went away soon after.

Thursday, 19th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Employ'd getting

everything in readyness for Sea. A.M., we were Visited by 10 or 11 of the

Natives; the most of them came from the other side of the Harbour, where

we saw 6 or 7 more, the most of them Women, and, like the men, quite

naked. Those that came on board were very desirous of having some of our

Turtles, and took the liberty to haul 2 of them to the Gangway to put

over the side; being disappointed in this, they grew a little

Troublesome, and were for throwing every thing overboard they could lay

their hands upon. As we had no Victuals dress'd at this time, I offer'd

them some bread to Eat, which they rejected with Scorn, as I believe they

would have done anything else excepting Turtle;* (* No doubt, in the

native view, the turtle belonged to them, and they considered the

strangers had annexed their property.) soon after this they all went

ashore, Mr. Banks, myself, and 5 or 6 of our people being their at same

time. Immediately upon their Landing one of tbem took a Handful of dry

grass and lighted it at a fire we had ashore, and before we well know'd

what he was going about he made a larger Circuit round about us, and set

fire to the grass in his way, and in an instant the whole place was in

flames. Luckily at this time we had hardly anything ashore, besides the

Forge and a Sow with a litter of young Pigs, one of which was scorched to

Death in the fire. As soon as they had done this they all went to a place

where some of our people were washing, and where all our nets and a good

deal of linnen were laid out to dry; here with the greatest obstinacy

they again set fire to the grass, which I and some others who were

present could not prevent, until I was obliged to fire a Musquet load

with small Shott at one of the Ring leaders, which sent them off. As we

were apprised of this last Attempt of theirs we got the fire out before

it got head, but the first spread like wild fire in the Woods and grass.

Notwithstanding my firing, in which one must have been a little hurt,

because we saw a few drops of blood on some of the linnen he had gone

over, they did not go far from us; for we soon after heard their Voices

in the woods, upon which Mr. Banks and I and 3 or 4 more went to look for

them, and very soon met them coming toward us. As they had each 4 or 5

Darts, and not knowing their intention, we seized upon 6 or 7 of the

first darts we met with. This alarm'd them so much that they all made

off, and we follow'd them for near 1/2 a Mile, and then set down and

called to them, and they stop'd also; after some little unintelligible

conversation had passed they laid down their darts, and came to us in a

very friendly manner. We now return'd the Darts we had taken from them,

which reconcil'd everything. There were 4 Strangers among them that we

had not seen before, and these were interduced to us by name by the

others; the Man which we supposed to have been Struck with small Shott

was gone off, but he could not be much hurt as he was at a great distance

when I fir'd. They all came along with us abreast of the Ship, where they

stay'd a short time, and then went away, and soon after set the woods on

fire about a Mile and a half or two Miles from us.

Friday, 20th. Fresh breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. P.M., got

everything on board the Ship, new berth'd her, and let her swing with the

tide. In the night the Master return'd with the pinnace, and reported

that there was no safe Passage for the Ship to the Northward at low

water. A.M., I went and Sounded and buoy'd the Bar, being now ready to

put to sea the first opportunity.

Saturday, 21st. Strong breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. P.M.,

sent a Boat to haul the Sean, which return'd with as much fish as came to

1 3/4 pounds per Man; the Yawl return'd with only one Turtle, which was

caught in the Net, for it blew too hard for the Boat to strike any. In

the morning I sent her out again, but she was obliged to return, not

being able to get to Windward. The Carpenters employ'd in repairing the

Boats and overhauling the Pumps, and as the Wind would not permit us to

sail, I sent the Boatswain with some hands ashore to make rope, and a

petty Officer with 2 Men to gather Greens for the Ship's Company.

Sunday, 22nd. Fresh breezes at South-East and East-South-East. Employ'd

as Yesterday. A.M., the weather would not permit us to Sail; sent the

Turtlers out again. In opening of one to-day we found sticking thro' both

Shoulder bones a wood Harpoon, or Turtle Peg, 15 Inches long, bearded at

the end, such as we have seen among the Natives; this proves to a

Demonstration that they strike Turtle, I suppose at the Time they come

ashore to lay their Eggs, for they certainly have no boat fit to do this

at Sea, or that will carry a Turtle, and this Harpoon must have been a

good while in, as the wound was quite heal'd up.

Monday, 23rd. Fresh breezes in the South-East quarter, which so long as

it continues will confine us in Port. Yesterday, A.M., I sent some people

in the Country to gather greens, one of which stragled from the rest, and

met with 4 of the Natives by a fire, on which they were broiling a Fowl,

and the hind leg of one of the Animals before spoke of. He had the

presence of mind not to run from them (being unarm'd), least they should

pursue him, but went and set down by them; and after he had set a little

while, and they had felt his hands and other parts of his body, they

suffer'd him to go away without offering the least insult, and perceiving

that he did not go right for the Ship they directed him which way to go.

Tuesday, 24th. Winds and weather continues. The Seamen employ'd making

ropes, Caulking the Ship, Fishing, etc.

Wednesday, 25th. Fresh gales at South-East and fair weather. In the

evening the Yawl came in, having not been able to Strike one Turtle on

account of the blowing weather, nor can we catch much fish with the Sean

in the Harbour.

Thursday, 26th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. Such people as can be

spared from the necessary Dutys of the Ship are employ'd fishing and

gathering greens and other refreshments.

Friday, 27th. Very fresh Gales at South-East by South and fair weather.

A.M., caught as much fish as served 3/4 pounds a man, and Mr. Gore shott

one of the Animals before spoke of, which weighed 80 pounds and 54

pounds, exclusive of the entrails, Skin, and head; this was as large as

the most we have seen.

Saturday, 28th. Winds and weather as above, without the least Variation

the whole of the 24 hours. The Carpenters finish'd caulking the Ship.

Sunday, 29th. Winds at South-East, a fresh breeze until 5 a.m., at which

time it fell calm, and soon after had a light breeze from the land. Upon

this I sent a Boat to see what water was upon the bar (it being 2 hours

Ebb), and hove up the Anchor in order to put to Sea; but upon the return

of the Boat came too again, as there were only 13 feet water on the Bar,

which was 6 Inches less water than what the Ship Draw'd. After this I

sent the Yawl to look for Turtle, as those we had got before were nearly

all expended. About 8 the Sea breeze set in again, which put an end to

our Sailing this day; after which I sent the Pinnace to haul the Sean;

she return'd with only 20 pounds of Fish.

Monday, 30th. Winds at South-East, a fresh Gale and fair weather in the

P.M., the remainder Hazey, with rain, but the winds, tho more moderate,

keept in the South-East quarter.

Tuesday, 31st. Fresh Gales at South-East, and hazey with rain all P.M.

and most part of the Night. At 2 a.m. I had thoughts of trying to Warp

the Ship out of the Harbour, but upon my going first out in a Boat I

found it blow too fresh for such an Attempt.

[August 1770.]

Wednesday, 1st August. Strong Gales from the South-East, with Squalls

attended with Rain. P.M., the Yawl came in with 2 Rays, which together

weighed 265 pounds; it blow'd too hard all the time they were out for

striking Turtle. Carpenters employ'd overhauling the Pumps, all of which

we find in a state of decay; and this the Carpenter says is owing to the

Sap having been left in, which in time has decay'd the sound wood. One of

them is quite useless, and was so rotten when hoisted up as to drop to

peices. However, I cannot complain of a Leaky Ship, for the most water

She makes is not quite an Inch an Hour.

Thursday, 2nd. Winds and weather as yesterday, or rather more Stormy; we

have now no Success in the Sein fishing, hardly getting above 20 or 30

pounds a day.

Friday, 3rd. Strong breezes, and hazey until 6 a.m., when it moderated,

and we unmoor'd, hove up the Anchor, and began to Warp out; but the Ship

tailing upon the Sand on the North side of the River, the Tide of Ebb

making out, and a fresh breeze setting in, we were obliged to desist and

moor the Ship again just within the Barr.

Saturday, 4th. In the P.M., having pretty moderate weather, I order'd the

Coasting Anchor and Cable to be laid without the barr, to be ready to

warp out by, that we might not loose the least opportunity that might

Offer; for laying in Port spends time to no purpose, consumes our

Provisions, of which we are very Short in many Articles, and we have yet

a long Passage to make to the East Indies through an unknown and perhaps

dangerous Sea; these Circumstances consider'd, make me very Anxious of

getting to Sea. The wind continued moderate all night, and at 5 a.m. it

fell calm; this gave us an opportunity to warp out. About 7 we got under

sail, having a light Air from the Land, which soon died away, and was

Succeeded by the Sea breezes from South-East by South, with which we

stood off to Sea East by North, having the Pinnace ahead sounding. The

Yawl I sent to the Turtle bank to take up the Net that was left there;

but as the wind freshen'd we got out before her, and a little After Noon

Anchor'd in 15 fathoms water, Sandy bottom, for I did not think it safe

to run in among the Shoals until I had well view'd them at low Water from

the Mast head, that I might be better Able to Judge which way to Steer;

for as yet I had not resolved whether I should beat back to the Southward

round all the Shoals, or seek a Passage to the Eastward or Northward, all

of which appeared to be equally difficult and dangerous. When at Anchor

the Harbour sail'd from bore South 70 degrees West, distant 4 or 5

Leagues; the Northermost point of the Main land we have in sight, which I

named Cape Bedford* (* Probably after John, 4th Duke, who had been First

Lord of the Admiralty, 1744 to 1747.) (Latitude 15 degrees 17 minutes

South, Longitude 214 degrees 45 minutes West), bore North 20 degrees

West, distant 3 1/2 Leagues; but we could see land to the North-East of

this Cape, which made like 2 high Islands;* (* Direction Islands.) the

Turtle banks bore East, distant one Mile. Latitude by Observation 15

degrees 23 minutes South; our depth of Water, in standing off from the

land, was from 3 1/2 to 15 fathoms.

[Description of Endeavour River.]

I shall now give a Short description of the Harbour, or River, we have

been in, which I named after the Ship, Endeavour River. It is only a

small Barr Harbour or Creek, which runs winding 3 or 4 Leagues in land,

at the Head of which is a small fresh Water Brook, as I was told, for I

was not so high myself; but there is not water for Shipping above a Mile

within the barr, and this is on the North side, where the bank is so

steep for nearly a quarter of a Mile that ships may lay afloat at low

water so near the Shore as to reach it with a stage, and is extreamly

Convenient for heaving a Ship down. And this is all the River hath to

recommend it, especially for large Shipping, for there is no more than 9

or 10 feet Water upon the Bar at low water, and 17 or 18 feet at high,

the Tides rises and falling about 9 feet at spring Tide, and is high on

the days of the New and full Moon, between 9 and 10 o'Clock. Besides,

this part of the Coast is barrocaded with Shoals, as to make this Harbour

more difficult of access; the safest way I know of to come at it is from

the South, Keeping the Main land close on board all the way. Its

situation may always be found by the Latitude, which hath been before

mentioned. Over the South point is some high Land, but the North point is

formed by a low sandy beach, which extends about 3 Miles to the

Northward, then the land is again high.

The refreshments we got here were Chiefly Turtle, but as we had to go 5

Leagues out to Sea for them, and had much blowing weather, we were not

over Stocked with this Article; however, what with these and the fish we

caught with the Sean we had not much reason to Complain, considering the

Country we were in. Whatever refreshment we got that would bear a

Division I caused to be equally divided among the whole Company,

generally by weight; the meanest person in the Ship had an equal share

with myself or any one on board, and this method every commander of a

Ship on such a Voyage as this ought ever to Observe. We found in several

places on the Sandy beaches and Sand Hills near the Sea, Purslain and

beans, which grows on a Creeping kind of a Vine. The first we found very

good when boiled, and the latter not to be dispised, and were at first

very serviceable to the Sick; but the best greens we found here was the

Tarra, or Coco Tops, called in the West Indies Indian Kale,* (* Colocasia

Macrorhiza.) which grows in most Boggy Places; these eat as well as, or

better, than Spinnage. The roots, for want of being Transplanted and

properly Cultivated, were not good, yet we could have dispensed with them

could we have got them in any Tolerable plenty; but having a good way to

go for them, it took up too much time and too many hands to gather both

root and branch. The few Cabage Palms we found here were in General

small, and yielded so little Cabage that they were not worth the Looking

after, and this was the Case with most of the fruit, etc., we found in

the woods.

Besides the Animals which I have before mentioned, called by the Natives

Kangooroo, or Kanguru, here are Wolves,* (* Probably Dingos.) Possums, an

Animal like a ratt, and snakes, both of the Venemous and other sorts.

Tame Animals here are none except Dogs, and of these we never saw but

one, who frequently came about our Tents to pick up bones, etc. The

Kanguru are in the greatest number, for we seldom went into the Country

without seeing some. The land Fowls we met here, which far from being

numerous, were Crows, Kites, Hawkes, Cockadores* (* Cockatoos.) of 2

Sorts, the one white, and the other brown, very beautiful Loryquets of 2

or 3 Sorts, Pidgeons, Doves, and a few other sorts of small Birds. The

Sea or Water fowl are Herns, Whisling Ducks, which perch and, I believe,

roost on Trees; Curlews, etc., and not many of these neither. Some of our

Gentlemen who were in the Country heard and saw Wild Geese in the Night.

The Country, as far as I could see, is diversified with Hills and plains,

and these with woods and Lawns; the Soil of the Hills is hard, dry, and

very Stoney; yet it produceth a thin Coarse grass, and some wood. The

Soil of the Plains and Valleys are sandy, and in some places Clay, and in

many Parts very Rocky and Stoney, as well as the Hills, but in general

the Land is pretty well Cloathed with long grass, wood, Shrubs, etc. The

whole Country abounds with an immense number of Ant Hills, some of which

are 6 or 8 feet high, and more than twice that in Circuit. Here are but

few sorts of Trees besides the Gum tree, which is the most numerous, and

is the same that we found on the Southern Part of the Coast, only here

they do not grow near so large. On each side of the River, all the way up

it, are Mangroves, which Extend in some places a Mile from its banks; the

Country in general is not badly water'd, there being several fine

Rivulets at no very great distance from one another, but none near to the

place where we lay; at least not in the Dry season, which is at this

time. However we were very well supply'd with water by springs which were

not far off.* (* Cooktown, which now stands on the Endeavour River, is a

thriving place, and the northernmost town on this coast. It has some 2000

inhabitants, and is the port for a gold mining district. A deeper channel

has now been dredged over the bar that gave Cook so much trouble, but it

is not a harbour that will admit large vessels.)

[At Anchor, Off Turtle Reef, Queensland.]

Sunday, 5th. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South-East and Clear

weather. As I did not intend to weigh until the morning I sent all the

Boats to the Reef to get what Turtle and Shell fish they could. At low

water from the Mast head I took a view of the Shoals, and could see

several laying a long way without this one, a part of several of them

appearing above water; but as it appear'd pretty clear of Shoals to the

North-East of the Turtle Reef, I came to a Resolution to stretch out that

way close upon a wind, because if we found no Passage we could always

return back the way we went. In the Evening the Boats return'd with one

Turtle, a sting ray, and as many large Clams as came to 1 1/2 pounds a

Man; in each of these Clams were about 20 pounds of Meat; added to this

we Caught in the night several Sharks. Early in the morning I sent the

Pinnace and Yawl again to the Reef, as I did not intend to weigh until

half Ebb, at which time the Shoals began to appear. Before 8 it came on

to blow, and I made the Signal for the Boats to come on Board, which they

did, and brought with them one Turtle. We afterwards began to heave, but

the wind Freshening obliged us to bear away* (* To veer cable, i.e., pay

out more cable, in order to hold the ship with the freshening wind.)

again and lay fast.

Monday, 6th. Winds at South-East. At 2 o'Clock p.m. it fell pretty

Moderate, and we got under sail, and stood out upon a wind North-East by

East, leaving the Turtle Reef to windward, having the Pinnace ahead

sounding. We had not stood out long before we discovered shoals ahead and

on both bows. At half past 4 o'Clock, having run off 8 Miles, the Pinnace

made the Signal for Shoal water in a place where we little Expected it;

upon this we Tack'd and Stood on and off while the Pinnace stretched

farther to the Eastward, but as night was approaching I thought it safest

to Anchor, which we accordingly did in 20 fathoms water, a Muddy bottom.

Endeavour River bore South 52 degrees West; Cape Bedford West by North

1/2 North, distant 5 Leagues; the Northermost land in sight, which made

like an Island, North; and a Shoal, a small, sandy part of which appear'd

above water, North-East, distance 2 or 3 Miles. In standing off from this

Turtle Reef to this place our soundings were from 14 to 20 fathoms, but

where the Pinnace was, about a Mile farther to the East-North-East, were

no more than 4 or 5 feet of water, rocky ground; and yet this did not

appear to us in the Ship. In the morning we had a strong Gale from the

South-East, that, instead of weighing as we intended, we were obliged to

bear away more Cable, and to Strike Top Gallant yards.

Tuesday, 7th. Strong Gales at South-East, South-East by South, and

South-South-East, with cloudy weather at Low water in the P.M. I and

several of the Officers kept a look out at the Mast head to see for a

Passage between the Shoals; but we could see nothing but breakers all the

way from the South round by the East as far as North-West, extending out

to Sea as far as we could see. It did not appear to be one continued

Shoal, but several laying detached from each other. On the Eastermost

that we could see the Sea broke very high, which made one judge it to be

the outermost; for on many of those within the Sea did not break high at

all, and from about 1/2 flood to 1/2 Ebb they are not to be seen, which

makes the Sailing among them more dangerous, and requires great care and

Circumspection, for, like all other Shoals, or Reefs of Coral Rocks, they

are quite steep too. Altho' the most of these Shoals consist of Coral

Rocks, yet a part of some of them is sand. The Turtle Reef and some

others have a small Patch of Sand generally at the North end, that is

only cover'd at high water. These generally discover themselves before we

come near them. Altho' I speak of this as the Turtle Reef, yet it is not

to be doubted but what there are Turtle upon the most of them as well as

this one. After having well viewed our situation from the Mast Head, I

saw that we were surrounded on every side with Dangers, in so much that I

was quite at a loss which way to steer when the weather will permit us to

get under sail, for to beat back to the South-East the way we came, as

the Master would have had me done, would be an endless peice of work, as

the winds blow constantly from that Quarter, and very Strong, without

hardly any intermission;* (* The south-east trade wind blows home on this

coast very strong from about June to October. Though the Barrier Reef

prevents any great sea from getting up, the continuance of this wind is a

great nuisance for a sailing ship from many points of view though from

others it is an advantage.) on the other hand, if we do not find a

passage to the Northward we shall have to come back at last. At 11 the

Ship drove, and obliged us to bear away to a Cable and one third, which

brought us up again; but in the morning the Gale increasing, she drove

again. This made us let go the Small Bower Anchor, and bear away a whole

Cable on it and 2 on the other; and even after this she still kept

driving slowly, until we had got down Top gallant Masts, struck Yards and

Top masts close down, and made all snug; then she rid fast, Cape Bedford

bearing West-South-West, distant 3 1/2 Leagues. In this situation we had

Shoals to the Eastward of us extending from the South-East by South to

the North-North-West, distant from the nearest part of them about 2

Miles.

Wednesday, 8th. Strong gales at South-South-East all this day, in so much

that I durst not get up Yards and Topmasts.