Thursday, 9th. In the P.M., the weather being something moderate, we got

up the Top masts, but keept the Lower yards down. At 6 in the morning we

began to heave in the Cable, thinking to get under sail; but it blow'd so

fresh, together with a head sea, that we could hardly heave the ship a

head, and at last was obliged to desist.

[Off Cape Flattery, Queensland.]

Friday, 10th. Fresh Gales at South-South-East and South-East by South.

P.M., the wind fell so that we got up the small Bower Anchor, and hove

into a whole Cable on the Best Bower. At 3 in the morning we got up the

Lower Yards, and at 7 weighed and stood in for the Land (intending to

seek for a passage along Shore to the northward), having a Boat ahead

sounding; depth of water as we run in from 19 to 12 fathoms. After

standing in an hour we edged away for 3 Small Islands* (* Now called the

Three Isles.) that lay North-North-East 1/2 East, 3 Leagues from Cape

Bedford. To these Islands the Master had been in the Pinnace when the

Ship was in Port. At 9 we were abreast of them, and between them and the

Main, having another low Island between us and the latter, which lies

West-North-West, 4 Miles from the 3 Islands. In this Channell had 14

fathoms water; the Northermost point of the Main we had in sight bore

from us North-North-West 1/2 West, distant 2 Leagues. 4 or 5 Leagues to

the North-East of this head land appeared 3 high Islands,* (* The

Direction Islands.) with some smaller ones near them, and the Shoals and

Reefs without, as we could see, extending to the Northward as far as

these Islands. We directed our Course between them and the above

headland, leaving a small Island* (* The Two Isles. Cook had now got

among the numerous islands and reefs which lie round Cape Flattery. There

are good channels between them, but they are very confusing to a

stranger. Cook's anxiety in his situation can well be imagined,

especially with his recent disaster in his mind.) to the Eastward of us,

which lies North by East, 4 Miles from the 3 Islands, having all the

while a boat ahead sounding. At Noon we were got between the head Land

and the 3 high Islands, distant from the former 2, and from the latter 4

Leagues; our Latitude by observation was 14 degrees 51 minutes South. We

now judged ourselves to be clear of all Danger, having, as we thought, a

Clear, open Sea before us; but this we soon found otherwise, and

occasioned my calling the Headland above mentioned Cape Flattery

(Latitude 14 degrees 55 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 43 minutes

West). It is a high Promontory, making in 2 Hills next the sea, and a

third behind them, with low sandy land on each side; but it is better

known by the 3 high Islands out at Sea, the Northermost of which is the

Largest, and lies from the Cape North-North-East, distant 5 Leagues. From

this Cape the Main land trends away North-West and North-West by West.

Saturday, 11th. Fresh breezes at South-South-East and South-East by

South, with which we steer'd along shore North-West by West until one

o'Clock, when the Petty Officer at the Masthead called out that he saw

land ahead, extending quite round to the Islands without, and a large

reef between us and them; upon this I went to the Masthead myself. The

reef I saw very plain, which was now so far to windward that we could not

weather it, but what he took for Main land ahead were only small Islands,

for such they appeared to me; but, before I had well got from Mast head

the Master and some others went up, who all asserted that it was a

Continuation of the Main land, and, to make it still more alarming, they

said they saw breakers in a Manner all round us. We immediately hauld

upon a wind in for the Land, and made the Signal for the Boat, which was

ahead sounding, to come on board; but as she was well to leeward, we were

obliged to edge away to take her up, and soon after came to an Anchor

under a point of the Main in 1/4 less 5* (* The nautical manner of

expressing four and three-quarters.) fathoms, about a Mile from the

Shore, Cape Flattery bearing South-East, distant 3 1/2 Leagues. After

this I landed, and went upon the point, which is pretty high, from which

I had a View of the Sea Coast, which trended away North-West by West, 8

or 10 Leagues, which was as far as I could see, the weather not being

very clear. I likewise saw 9 or 10 Small, Low Islands and some Shoals

laying off the Coast, and some large Shoals between the Main and the 3

high Islands, without which, I was now well assured, were Islands, and

not a part of the Mainland as some had taken them to be. Excepting Cape

Flattery and the point I am now upon, which I have named point Lookout,

the Main land next the sea to the Northward of Cape Bedford is low, and

Chequer'd with white sand and green Bushes, etc., for 10 or 12 Miles

inland, beyond which is high land. To the northward of Point Lookout the

shore appear'd to be shoal and flat some distance off, which was no good

sign of meeting with a Channell in with the land, as we have hitherto

done. We saw the footsteps of people upon the sand, and smoke and fire up

in the Country, and in the evening return'd on board, where I came to a

resolution to visit one of the high Islands in the Offing in my Boat, as

they lay at least 5 Leagues out at Sea, and seem'd to be of such a height

that from the Top of one of them I hoped to see and find a Passage out to

sea clear of the Shoals. Accordingly in the Morning I set out in the

Pinnace for the Northermost and largest of the 3, accompanied by Mr.

Banks. At the same time I sent the Master in the Yawl to Leeward, to

sound between the Low Islands and the Main. In my way to the Island I

passed over a large reef of Coral Rocks and sand, which lies about 2

Leagues from the Island; I left another to leeward, which lays about 3

Miles from the Island. [On Lizard Island, Queensland.] On the North part

of this is a low, sandy Isle, with Trees upon it; on the reef we pass'd

over in the Boat we saw several Turtle, and Chased one or Two, but caught

none, it blowing too hard, and I had no time to spare, being otherways

employ'd. I did not reach the Island until half an hour after one o'Clock

in the P.M. on

Sunday, 12th, when I immediately went upon the highest hill on the

Island,* (* Lizard Island.) where, to my Mortification, I discover'd a

Reef of Rocks laying about 2 or 3 Leagues without the Island, extending

in a line North-West and South-East, farther than I could see, on which

the sea broke very high.* (* This was the outer edge of the Barrier

Reefs.) This, however, gave one great hopes that they were the outermost

shoals, as I did not doubt but what I should be able to get without them,

for there appeared to be several breaks or Partitions in the Reef, and

Deep Water between it and the Islands. I stay'd upon the Hill until near

sun set, but the weather continued so Hazey all the time that I could not

see above 4 or 5 Leagues round me, so that I came down much disappointed

in the prospect I expected to have had, but being in hopes the morning

might prove Clearer, and give me a better View of the Shoals. With this

view I stay'd all night upon the Island, and at 3 in the Morning sent the

Pinnace, with one of the Mates I had with me, to sound between the Island

and the Reefs, and to Examine one of the breaks or Channels; and in the

mean time I went again upon the Hill, where I arrived by Sun Rise, but

found it much Hazier than in the Evening. About Noon the pinnace

return'd, having been out as far as the Reef, and found from 15 to 28

fathoms water. It blow'd so hard that they durst not venture into one of

the Channels, which, the Mate said, seem'd to him to be very narrow; but

this did not discourage me, for I thought from the place he was at he

must have seen it at disadvantage. Before I quit this Island I shall

describe it. It lies, as I have before observed, about 5 Leagues from the

Main; it is about 8 Miles in Circuit, and of a height sufficient to be

seen 10 or 12 Leagues; it is mostly high land, very rocky and barren,

except on the North-West side, where there are some sandy bays and low

land, which last is covered with thin, long grass, Trees, etc., the same

as upon the Main. Here is also fresh Water in 2 places; the one is a

running stream, the water a little brackish where I tasted it, which was

close to the sea; the other is a standing pool, close behind the sandy

beach, of good, sweet water, as I daresay the other is a little way from

the Sea beach. The only land Animals we saw here were Lizards, and these

seem'd to be pretty Plenty, which occasioned my naming the Island Lizard

Island. The inhabitants of the Main visit this Island at some Seasons of

the Year, for we saw the Ruins of Several of their Hutts and heaps of

Shells, etc. South-East, 4 or 5 Miles from this Island, lay the other 2

high Islands, which are very small compared to this; and near them lay 3

others, yet smaller and lower Islands, and several Shoals or reefs,

especially to the South-East. There is, however, a clear passage from

Cape Flattery to those Islands, and even quite out to the outer Reefs,

leaving the above Islands to the South-East and Lizard Island to the

North-West.

Monday, 13th. At 2 P.M. I left Lizard Island in order to return to the

Ship, and in my way landed upon the low sandy Isle mentioned in coming

out. We found on this Island* (* Eagle Island.) a pretty number of Birds,

the most of them sea Fowl, except Eagles; 2 of the Latter we shott and

some of the others; we likewise saw some Turtles, but got none, for the

reasons before mentioned. After leaving Eagle Isle I stood South-West

direct for the Ship, sounding all the way, and had not less than 8

fathoms, nor more than 14. I had the same depth of Water between Lizard

and Eagle Isle. After I got on board the Master inform'd me he had been

down to the Islands I had directed him to go too, which he judged to lay

about 3 Leagues from the Main, and had sounded the Channel between the 2,

found 7 fathoms; this was near the Islands, for in with the Main he had

only 9 feet 3 Miles off, but without the Islands he found 10, 12, and 14

fathoms. He found upon the islands piles of turtle shells, and some finns

that were so fresh that both he and the boats' crew eat of them. This

showed that the natives must have been there lately. After well

considering both what I had seen myself and the report of the Master's, I

found by experience that by keeping in with the Mainland we should be in

continued danger, besides the risk we should run in being lock'd in with

Shoals and reefs by not finding a passage out to Leeward. In case we

persever'd in keeping the Shore on board an accident of this kind, or any

other that might happen to the ship, would infallibly loose our passage

to the East India's this Season,* (* In November the wind changes to the

North-West, which would have been a foul wind to Batavia.) and might

prove the ruin of both ourselves and the Voyage, as we have now little

more than 3 Months' Provisions on board, and that at short allowance.

Wherefore, after consulting with the Officers, I resolved to weigh in the

morning, and Endeavour to quit the Coast altogether until such time as I

found I could approach it with less danger. With this View we got under

sail at daylight in the morning, and stood out North-East for the

North-West end of Lizard Island, having Eagle Island to windward of us,

having the pinnace ahead sounding; and here we found a good Channell,

wherein we had from 9 to 14 fathoms. At Noon the North end of Lizard

Island bore East-South-East, distant one Mile; Latitude observed 14

degrees 38 minutes South; depth of water 14 fathoms. We now took the

pinnace in tow, knowing that there were no dangers until we got out to

the Reefs.* (* From the 13th to the 19th the language used in Mr.

Corner's copy of the Journal is quite different from that of the

Admiralty and the Queen's, though the occurrences are the same. From

internal evidences, it appears that Mr. Corner's copy was at this period

the first written up, and that Cook amended the phrases in the other fair

copies.)

[Pass Outside Barrier Reef, Queensland.]

Tuesday, 14th. Winds at South-East, a steady gale. By 2 P.M. we got out

to the outermost reefs, and just fetched to Windward of one of the

openings I had discover'd from the Island; we tacked and Made a short

trip to the South-West, while the Master went in the pinnace to examine

the Channel, who soon made the signal for the Ship to follow, which we

accordingly did, and in a short time got safe out. This Channel* (* Now

known as Cook's Passage.) lies North-East 1/2 North, 3 Leagues from

Lizard Island; it is about one-third of a Mile broad, and 25 or 30

fathoms deep or more. The moment we were without the breakers we had no

ground with 100 fathoms of Line, and found a large Sea rowling in from

the South-East. By this I was well assured we were got with out all the

Shoals, which gave us no small joy, after having been intangled among

Islands and Shoals, more or less, ever since the 26th of May, in which

time we have sail'd above 360 Leagues by the Lead without ever having a

Leadsman out of the Chains, when the ship was under sail; a Circumstance

that perhaps never hapned to any ship before, and yet it was here

absolutely necessary. I should have been very happy to have had it in my

power to have keept in with the land, in order to have explor'd the Coast

to the Northern extremity of the Country, which I think we were not far

off, for I firmly believe this land doth not join to New Guinea. But this

I hope soon either to prove or disprove, and the reasons I have before

assign'd will, I presume, be thought sufficient for my leaving the Coast

at this time; not but what I intend to get in with it again as soon as I

can do it with safety. The passage or channel we now came out by, which I

have named, ----* (* Blank in MS.) lies in the Latitude of 14 degrees 32

minutes South; it may always be found and known by the 3 high Islands

within it, which I have called the Islands of Direction, because by their

means a safe passage may be found even by strangers in within the Main

reef, and quite into the Main. Lizard Island, which is the Northermost

and Largest of the 3, Affords snug Anchorage under the North-West side of

it, fresh water and wood for fuel; and the low Islands and Reefs which

lay between it and the Main, abound with Turtle and other fish, which may

be caught at all Seasons of the Year (except in such blowing weather as

we have lately had). All these things considered there is, perhaps, not a

better place on the whole Coast for a Ship to refresh at than this

Island. I had forgot to mention in its proper place, that not only on

this Island, but on Eagle Island, and on several places of the Sea beach

in and about Endeavour River, we found Bamboos, Cocoa Nutts, the seeds of

some few other plants, and Pummice-stones, which were not the produce of

the Country. From what we have seen of it, it is reasonable to suppose

that they are the produce of some lands or Islands laying in the

Neighbourhood, most likely to the Eastward, and are brought hither by the

Easterly trade winds. The Islands discover'd by Quiros lies in this

parrallel, but how far to the Eastward it's hard to say; for altho' we

found in most Charts his discoveries placed as far to the West as this

country yet from the account of his Voyage, compared with what we

ourselves have seen, we are Morally certain that he never was upon any

part of this Coast.* (* The Island of Espiritu Santo, in the New

Hebrides, which Quiros discovered, lies 1200 miles to the eastward, and

New Caledonia, from which these objects might equally have come, is 1000

miles in the same direction.) As soon as we had got without the Reefs we

Shortened sail, and hoisted in the pinnace and Long boat, which last we

had hung alongside, and then stretched off East-North-East, close upon a

wind, as I did not care to stand to the Northward until we had a whole

day before us, for which reason we keept making short boards all night.

The large hollow sea we have now got into acquaints us with a

Circumstance we did not before know, which is that the Ship hath received

more Damage than we were aware of, or could perceive when in smooth

Water; for now she makes as much water as one pump will free, kept

constantly at work. However this was looked upon as trifling to the

Danger we had lately made an Escape from. At day light in the morning

Lizard Island bore South by West, distant 10 Leagues. We now made all the

sail we could, and stood away North-North-West 1/2 West, but at 9 we

steer'd North-West 1/2 North, having the advantage of a Fresh Gale at

South-East; at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 13 degrees

46 minutes South, the Lizard Island bore South 15 degrees East, distant

58 Miles, but we had no land in sight.

Wednesday, 15th. Fresh Trade at South-East and Clear weather. At 6 in the

evening shortned sail and brought too, with her head to the North-East.

By this time we had run near 12 Leagues upon a North-West 1/2 North

Course since Noon. At 4 a.m. wore and lay her head to the South-West, and

at 6 made all Sail, and steer'd West, in order to make the land, being

fearful of over shooting the passage, supposing there to be one, between

this land and New Guinea. By noon we had run 10 Leagues upon this Course,

but saw no land. Our Latitude by observation was 13 degrees 2 minutes

South, Longitude 216 degrees 00 minutes West, which was 1 degree 23

minutes to the West of Lizard Island.

[Ship in Danger, Outside Barrier Reef.]

Thursday, 16th. Moderate breezes at East-South-East and fair weather. A

little after Noon saw the Land from the Mast head bearing

West-South-West, making high; at 2 saw more land to the North-West of the

former, making in hills like Islands; but we took it to be a Continuation

of the Main land. An hour after this we saw a reef, between us and the

land, extending away to the Southward, and, as we thought, terminated

here to the Northward abreast of us; but this was only on op'ning, for

soon after we saw it extend away to the Northward as far as we could

distinguish anything. Upon this we hauld close upon a Wind, which was now

at East-South-East, with all the sail we could set. We had hardly trimm'd

our sails before the wind came to East by North, which made our

weathering the Reef very doubtful, the Northern point of which in sight

at sun set still bore from us North by West, distant about 2 Leagues.

However, this being the best Tack to Clear it, we keept standing to the

Northward, keeping a good look out until 12 at night, when, fearing to

run too far upon one Course, we tack'd and stood to the southward, having

run 6 Leagues North or North by East since sun set; we had not stood

above 2 Miles to the South-South-East before it fell quite Calm. We both

sounded now and several times before, but had not bottom with 140 fathoms

of line.* (* The description which follows, of the situation of the ship,

and the occurrences until she was safely anchored inside the Barrier

Reef, is from the Admiralty copy, as it is much fuller than that in Mr.

Corner's.) A little after 4 o'clock the roaring of the surf was plainly

heard, and at daybreak the Vast foaming breakers were too plainly to be

seen not a mile from us, towards which we found the ship was carried by

the Waves surprisingly fast. We had at this time not an air of Wind, and

the depth of water was unfathomable, so that there was not a possibility

of anchoring. In this distressed Situation we had nothing but Providence

and the small Assistance the Boats could give us to trust to; the Pinnace

was under repair, and could not immediately be hoisted out. The Yawl was

put in the Water, and the Longboat hoisted out, and both sent ahead to

tow, which, together with the help of our sweeps abaft, got the Ship's

head round to the Northward, which seemed to be the best way to keep her

off the Reef, or at least to delay time. Before this was effected it was

6 o'clock, and we were not above 80 or 100 yards from the breakers. The

same sea that washed the side of the ship rose in a breaker prodidgiously

high the very next time it did rise, so that between us and destruction

was only a dismal Valley, the breadth of one wave, and even now no ground

could be felt with 120 fathom. The Pinnace was by this time patched up,

and hoisted out and sent ahead to Tow. Still we had hardly any hopes of

saving the ship, and full as little our lives, as we were full 10 Leagues

from the nearest Land, and the boats not sufficient to carry the whole of

us; yet in this Truly Terrible Situation not one man ceased to do his

utmost, and that with as much Calmness as if no danger had been near. All

the dangers we had escaped were little in comparison of being thrown upon

this reef, where the Ship must be dashed to pieces in a Moment. A reef

such as one speaks of here is Scarcely known in Europe. It is a Wall of

Coral Rock rising almost perpendicular out of the unfathomable Ocean,

always overflown at high Water generally 7 or 8 feet, and dry in places

at Low Water. The Large Waves of the Vast Ocean meeting with so sudden a

resistance makes a most Terrible Surf, breaking Mountains high,

especially as in our case, when the General Trade Wind blows directly

upon it. At this Critical juncture, when all our endeavours seemed too

little, a Small Air of Wind sprung up, but so small that at any other

Time in a Calm we should not have observed it. With this, and the

Assistance of our Boats, we could observe the Ship to move off from the

Reef in a slanting direction; but in less than 10 Minutes we had as flat

a Calm as ever, when our fears were again renewed, for as yet we were not

above 200 Yards from the Breakers. Soon after our friendly Breeze visited

us again, and lasted about as long as before. A Small Opening was now

Seen in the Reef about a 1/4 of a Mile from us, which I sent one of the

Mates to Examine. Its breadth was not more than the Length of the Ship,

but within was Smooth Water. Into this place it was resolved to Push her

if Possible, having no other Probable Views to save her, for we were

still in the very Jaws of distruction, and it was a doubt wether or no we

could reach this Opening. However, we soon got off it, when to our

Surprise we found the Tide of Ebb gushing out like a Mill Stream, so that

it was impossible to get in. We however took all the Advantage Possible

of it, and it Carried us out about a 1/4 of a Mile from the breakers; but

it was too Narrow for us to keep in long. However, what with the help of

this Ebb, and our Boats, we by Noon had got an Offing of 1 1/2 or 2

Miles, yet we could hardly flatter ourselves with hopes of getting Clear,

even if a breeze should Spring up, as we were by this time embay'd by the

Reef, and the Ship, in Spite of our Endeavours, driving before the Sea

into the bight. The Ebb had been in our favour, and we had reason to

Suppose the flood which was now made would be against us. The only hopes

we had was another Opening we saw about a Mile to the Westward of us,

which I sent Lieutenant Hicks in the Small Boat to Examine. Latitude

observed 12 degrees 37 minutes South, the Main Land in Sight distant

about 10 Leagues.

[Pass Again Inside Barrier Reef.]

Friday, 17th. While Mr. Hicks was Examining the opening we struggled hard

with the flood, sometime gaining a little and at other times loosing. At

2 o'Clock Mr. Hicks returned with a favourable Account of the Opening. It

was immediately resolved to Try to secure the Ship in it. Narrow and

dangerous as it was, it seemed to be the only means we had of saving her,

as well as ourselves. A light breeze soon after sprung up at

East-North-East, with which, the help of our Boats, and a Flood Tide, we

soon entered the Opening, and was hurried thro' in a short time by a

Rappid Tide like a Mill race, which kept us from driving against either

side, though the Channel was not more than a 1/4 of a Mile broad, having

2 Boats ahead of us sounding.* (* This picture of the narrow escape from

total shipwreck is very graphic. Many a ship has been lost under similar

circumstances, without any idea of anchoring, which would often save a

vessel, as it is not often that a reef is so absolutely steep; but that

Cook had this possibility in his mind is clear. As a proof of the

calmness which prevailed on board, it may be mentioned that when in the

height of the danger, Mr. Green, Mr. Clerke, and Mr. Forwood the gunner,

were engaged in taking a Lunar, to obtain the longitude. The note in Mr.

Green's log is: "These observations were very good, the limbs of sun and

moon very distinct, and a good horizon. We were about 100 yards from the

reef, where we expected the ship to strike every minute, it being calm,

no soundings, and the swell heaving us right on.") Our deepth of water

was from 30 to 7 fathoms; very irregular soundings and foul ground until

we had got quite within the Reef, where we Anchor'd in 19 fathoms, a

Coral and Shelly bottom. The Channel we came in by, which I have named

Providential Channell, bore East-North-East, distant 10 or 12 Miles,

being about 8 or 9 Leagues from the Main land, which extended from North

66 degrees West to South-West by South.

It is but a few days ago that I rejoiced at having got without the Reef;

but that joy was nothing when Compared to what I now felt at being safe

at an Anchor within it. Such are the Visissitudes attending this kind of

Service, and must always attend an unknown Navigation where one steers

wholy in the dark without any manner of Guide whatever. Was it not from

the pleasure which Naturly results to a man from his being the first

discoverer, even was it nothing more than Land or Shoals, this kind of

Service would be insupportable, especially in far distant parts like

this, Short of Provisions and almost every other necessary. People will

hardly admit of an excuse for a Man leaving a Coast unexplored he has

once discovered. If dangers are his excuse, he is then charged with

Timerousness and want of Perseverance, and at once pronounced to be the

most unfit man in the world to be employ'd as a discoverer; if, on the

other hand, he boldly encounters all the dangers and Obstacles he meets

with, and is unfortunate enough not to succeed, he is then Charged with

Temerity, and, perhaps, want of Conduct. The former of these Aspersions,

I am confident, can never be laid to my Charge, and if I am fortunate to

Surmount all the Dangers we meet with, the latter will never be brought

in Question; altho' I must own that I have engaged more among the Islands

and Shoals upon this Coast than perhaps in prudence I ought to have done

with a single Ship* (* Cook was so impressed with the danger of one ship

alone being engaged in these explorations, that in his subsequent voyages

he asked for, and obtained, two vessels.) and every other thing

considered. But if I had not I should not have been able to give any

better account of the one half of it than if I had never seen it; at

best, I should not have been able to say wether it was Mainland or

Islands; and as to its produce, that we should have been totally ignorant

of as being inseparable with the other; and in this case it would have

been far more satisfaction to me never to have discover'd it. But it is

time I should have done with this Subject, which at best is but

disagreeable, and which I was lead into on reflecting on our late

Dangers.

In the P.M., as the wind would not permit us to sail out by the same

Channel as we came in, neither did I care to move until the pinnace was

in better repair, I sent the Master with all the other Boats to the Reef

to get such refreshments as he could find, and in the meantime the

Carpenters were repairing the pinnace. Variations by the Amplitude and

Azimuth in the morning 4 degrees 9 minutes Easterly; at noon Latitude

observed 12 degrees 38 minutes South, Longitude in 216 degrees 45 minutes

West. It being now about low water, I and some other of the officers went

to the Masthead to see what we could discover. Great part of the reef

without us was dry, and we could see an Opening in it about two Leagues

farther to the South-East than the one we came in by; we likewise saw 2

large spots of sand to the Southward within the Reef, but could see

nothing to the Northward between it and the Main. On the Mainland within

us was a pretty high promontary, which I called Cape Weymouth (Latitude

12 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 217 degrees 15 minutes); and on

the North-West side of this Cape is a Bay, which I called Weymouth Bay.*

(* Viscount Weymouth was one of the Secretaries of State when the

Endeavour sailed.)

Saturday, 18th. Gentle breezes at East and East-South-East. At 4 P.M. the

Boats return'd from the Reef with about 240 pounds of Shell-fish, being

the Meat of large Cockles, exclusive of the Shells. Some of these Cockles

are as large as 2 Men can move, and contain about 20 pounds of Meat, very

good. At 6 in the morning we got under sail, and stood away to the

North-West, as we could not expect a wind to get out to Sea by the same

Channel as we came in without waiting perhaps a long time for it, nor was

it advisable at this time to go without the Shoals, least we should by

them be carried so far off the Coast as not to be able to determine

wether or no New Guinea joins to or makes a part of this land. This

doubtful point I had from my first coming upon the Coast, determined, if

Possible, to clear up; I now came to a fix'd resolution to keep the Main

land on board, let the Consequence be what it will, and in this all the

Officers concur'd. In standing to the North-West we met with very

irregular soundings, from 10 to 27 fathoms, varying 5 or 6 fathoms almost

every Cast of the Lead. However, we keept on having a Boat ahead

sounding. A little before noon we passed a low, small, sandy Isle, which

we left on our Starboard side at the distance of 2 Miles. At the same

time we saw others, being part of large Shoals above water, away to the

North-East and between us and the Main land. At Noon we were by

observation in the Latitude of 12 degrees 28 minutes South, and 4 or 5

Leagues from the Main, which extended from South by West to North 71

degrees West, and some Small Islands extending from North 40 degrees West

to North 54 degrees West, the Main or outer Reef seen from the Masthead

away to the North-East.

[Amongst Shoals off Cape Grenville.]

Sunday, 19th. Gentle breezes at South-East by East and Clear wether. At 2

P.M., as we were steering North-West by North, saw a large shoal right

ahead, extending 3 or 4 points on each bow, upon which we hauld up

North-North-East and North-East by North, in order to get round to North

Point of it, which we reached by 4 o'clock, and then Edged away to the

westward, and run between the North end of this Shoal and another, which

lays 2 miles to the Northward of it, having a Boat all the time ahead

sounding. Our depth of Water was very irregular, from 22 to 8 fathoms. At

1/2 past 6 we Anchor'd in 13 fathoms; the Northermost of the Small

Islands mentioned at Noon bore West 1/2 South, distant 3 Miles. These

Islands, which are known in the Chart by the name of Forbes's Isles,* (*

Admiral John Forbes was a Commissioner of Longitude in 1768, and had been

a Lord of the Admiralty from 1756 to 1763.) lay about 5 Leagues from the

Main, which here forms a moderate high point, which we called Bolt head,

from which the Land trends more westerly, and is all low, sandy Land, but

to the Southward it is high and hilly, even near the Sea. At 6 A.M. we

got under sail, and directed our Course for an Island which lay but a

little way from the Main, and bore from us at this time North 40 degrees

West, distant 5 Leagues; but we were soon interrupted in our Course by

meeting with Shoals, but by the help of 2 Boats ahead and a good lookout

at the Mast head we got at last into a fair Channel, which lead us down

to the Island, having a very large Shoal on our Starboard side and

several smaller ones betwixt us and the Main land. In this Channel we had

from 20 to 30 fathoms. Between 11 and 12 o'Clock we hauld round the

North-East side of the Island, leaving it between us and the Main from

which it is distant 7 or 8 Miles. This Island is about a League in

Circuit and of a moderate height, and is inhabited; to the North-West of

it are several small, low Islands and Keys, which lay not far from the

Main, and to the Northward and Eastward lay several other Islands and

Shoals, so that we were now incompassed on every side by one or the

other, but so much does a great danger Swallow up lesser ones, that these

once so much dreaded spots were now looked at with less concern. The

Boats being out of their Stations, we brought too to wait for them. At

Noon our Latitude by observation was 12 degrees 0 minutes South,

Longitude in 217 degrees 25 minutes West; depth of Water 14 fathoms;

Course and distance sail'd, reduced to a strait line, since yesterday

Noon is North 29 degrees West, 32 Miles. The Main land within the above

Islands forms a point, which I call Cape Grenville* (* George Grenville

was First Lord of the Admiralty for a few months in 1763, and afterwards

Prime Minister for two years.) (Latitude 11 degrees 58 minutes, Longitude

217 degrees 38 minutes); between this Cape and the Bolt head is a Bay,

which I Named Temple Bay.* (* Richard Earl Temple, brother of George

Grenville, was First Lord of the Admiralty in 1756.) East 1/2 North, 9

Leagues from Cape Grenville, lay some tolerable high Islands, which I

called Sir Charles Hardy's Isles;* (* Admiral Sir C. Hardy was second in

command in Hawke's great action in Quiberon Bay, 1759.) those which lay

off the Cape I named Cockburn Isles.* (* Admiral George Cockburn was a

Commissioner of Longitude and Comptroller of the Navy when Cook left

England. Off Cape Grenville the Endeavour again got into what is now the

recognised channel along the land inside the reefs.)

[Nearing Cape York, Queensland.]

Monday, 20th. Fresh breezes at East-South-East. About one P.M. the

pinnace having got ahead, and the Yawl we took in Tow, we fill'd and

Steer'd North by West, for some small Islands we had in that direction.

After approaching them a little nearer we found them join'd or connected

together by a large Reef; upon this we Edged away North-West, and left

them on our Starboard hand, steering between them and the Island laying

off the Main, having a fair and Clear Passage; Depth of Water from 15 to

23 fathoms. At 4 we discover'd some low Islands and Rocks bearing

West-North-West, which we stood directly for. At half Past 6 we Anchor'd

on the North-East side of the Northermost, in 16 fathoms, distant from

the Island one Mile. This Isle lay North-West 4 Leagues from Cape

Grenville. On the Isles we saw a good many Birds, which occasioned my

calling them Bird Isles. Before and at Sunset we could see the Main land,

which appear'd all very low and sandy, Extends as far to the Northward as

North-West by North, and some Shoals, Keys, and low sandy Isles away to

the North-East of us. At 6 A.M. we got again under sail, with a fresh

breeze at East, and stood away North-North-West for some low Islands* (*

Boydong Keys.) we saw in that direction; but we had not stood long upon

this Course before we were obliged to haul close upon a wind in Order to

weather a Shoal which we discover'd on our Larboard bow, having at the

same time others to the Eastward of us. By such time as we had weathered

the Shoal to Leeward we had brought the Islands well upon our Leebow; but

seeing some Shoals spit off from them, and some rocks on our Starboard

bow, which we did not discover until we were very near them, made me

afraid to go to windward of the Islands; wherefore we brought too, and

made the signal for the pinnace, which was a head, to come on board,

which done, I sent her to Leeward of the Islands, with Orders to keep

along the Edge off the Shoal, which spitted off from the South side of

the Southermost Island. The Yawl I sent to run over the Shoals to look

for Turtle, and appointed them a Signal to make in case they saw many; if

not, she was to meet us on the other side of the Island. As soon as the

pinnace had got a proper distance from us we wore, and stood After her,

and run to Leeward of the Islands, where we took the Yawl in Tow, she

having seen only one small Turtle, and therefore made no Stay upon the

Shoal. Upon this Island, which is only a Small Spott of Land, with some

Trees upon it, we saw many Hutts and habitations of the Natives, which we

supposed come over from the Main to these Islands (from which they are

distant about 5 Leagues) to Catch Turtle at the time these Animals come

ashore to lay their Eggs. Having got the Yawl in Tow, we stood away after

the pinnace North-North-East and North by East to 2 other low Islands,

having 2 Shoals, which we could see without and one between us and the

Main. At Noon we were about 4 Leagues from the Main land, which we could

see Extending to the Northward as far as North-West by North, all low,

flat, and Sandy. Our Latitude by observation was 11 degrees 23 minutes

South, Longitude in 217 degrees 46 minutes West, and Course and distance

sail'd since Yesterday at Noon North 22 degrees West, 40 Miles; soundings

from 14 to 23 fathoms. But these are best seen upon the Chart, as

likewise the Islands, Shoals, etc., which are too Numerous to be

Mentioned singly.* (* It is very difficult to follow Cook's track after

entering Providential Channel to this place. The shoals and islands were

so confusing that their positions are very vaguely laid down on Cook's

chart. It is easy to imagine how slow was his progress and tortuous his

course, with a boat ahead all the time constantly signalling shallow

water. Nothing is more trying to officers and men.)

Tuesday, 21st. Winds at East by South and East-South-East, fresh breeze.

By one o'Clock we had run nearly the length of the Southermost of the 2

Islands before mentioned, and finding that we could not well go to

windward of them without carrying us too far from the Main land, we bore

up, and run to Leeward, where we found a fair open passage. This done, we

steer'd North by West, in a parrallel direction with the Main land,

leaving a small Island between us and it, and some low sandy Isles and

Shoals without us, all of which we lost sight of by 4 o'Clock; neither

did we see any more before the sun went down, at which time the farthest

part of the Main in sight bore North-North-West 1/2 West. Soon after this

we Anchor'd in 13 fathoms, soft Ground, about five Leagues from the Land,

where we lay until day light, when we got again under sail, having first

sent the Yawl ahead to sound. We steer'd North-North-West by Compass from

the Northermost land in sight; Variation 3 degrees 6 minutes East. Seeing

no danger in our way we took the Yawl in Tow, and made all the Sail we

could until 8 o'Clock, at which time we discover'd Shoals ahead and on

our Larboard bow, and saw that the Northermost land, which we had taken

to be a part of the Main, was an Island, or Islands,* (*Now called Mount

Adolphus Islands.) between which and the Main their appeared to be a good

Passage thro' which we might pass by running to Leeward of the Shoals on

our Larboard bow, which was now pretty near us. Whereupon we wore and

brought too, and sent away the Pinnace and Yawl to direct us clear of the

Shoals, and then stood after them. Having got round the South-East point

of the Shoal we steer'd North-West along the South-West, or inside of it,

keeping a good lookout at the Masthead, having another Shoal on our

Larboard side; but we found a good Channel of a Mile broad between them,

wherein were from 10 to 14 fathoms. At 11 o'Clock, being nearly the

length of the Islands above mentioned, and designing to pass between them

and the Main, the Yawl, being thrown a stern by falling in upon a part of

the Shoal, She could not get over. We brought the Ship too, and Sent away

the Long boat (which we had a stern, and rigg'd) to keep in Shore upon

our Larboard bow, and the Pinnace on our Starboard; for altho' there

appear'd nothing in the Passage, yet I thought it necessary to take this

method, because we had a strong flood, which carried us on end very fast,

and it did not want much of high water. As soon as the Boats were ahead

we stood after them, and got through by noon, at which time we were by

observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 36 minutes 30 seconds South.

The nearest part of the Main, and which we soon after found to be the

Northermost,* (* Cape York, the northernmost point of Australia.) bore

West southerly, distant 3 or 4 Miles; the Islands which form'd the

passage before mentioned extending from North to North 75 degrees East,

distant 2 or 3 Miles. At the same time we saw Islands at a good distance

off extending from North by West to West-North-West, and behind them

another chain of high land, which we likewise judged to be Islands.* (*

The islands around Thursday Island.) The Main land we thought extended as

far as North 71 degrees West; but this we found to be Islands. The point

of the Main, which forms one side of the Passage before mentioned, and

which is the Northern Promontory of this Country, I have named York Cape,

in honour of his late Royal Highness, the Duke of York.* (* Edward

Augustus, Duke of York and Albany, was a brother of George III.) It lies

in the Longitude of 218 degrees 24 minutes West, the North point in the

Latitude of 10 degrees 37 minutes South, and the East point in 10 degrees

41 minutes. The land over and to the Southward of this last point is

rather low and very flatt as far inland as the Eye could reach, and looks

barren. To the Southward of the Cape the Shore forms a large open bay,

which I called Newcastle bay, wherein are some small, low Islands and

shoals, and the land all about it is very low, flatt, and sandy. The land

on the Northern part of the Cape is rather more hilly, and the shore

forms some small bays, wherein there appear'd to be good Anchorage, and

the Vallies appear'd to be tolerably well Cloathed with wood. Close to

the East point of the Cape are 3 small Islands, and a small Ledge of

rocks spitting off from one of them. There is also an Island laying close

to the North Point. The other Islands before spoke of lay about 4 Miles

without these; only two of them are of any extent. The Southermost is the

largest, and much higher than any part of the Main land. On the

North-West side of this Island seem'd to be good Anchorage, and Vallies

that to all appearance would afford both wood and fresh Water. These

Isles are known in the Chart by the name of York Isles.* (* Now called

Mount Adolphus Islands.) To the Southward and South-East of them, and

even to the Eastward and Northward, are several low Islands, rocks, and

Shoals. Our depth of Water in sailing between them and the Main was 12,

13, and 14 fathoms.* (* In this channel is the dangerous rock on which

the steamship Quetta was wrecked, with such terrible loss of life, in

1890. By the Endeavour's track she must have passed very near it.)

[Land upon Possession Island.]

Wednesday, 22nd. Gentle breezes at East by South and clear weather. We

had not steer'd above 3 or 4 Miles along shore to the westward before we

discover'd the land ahead to be Islands detached by several Channels from

the main land; upon this we brought too to Wait for the Yawl, and called

the other Boats on board, and after giving them proper instructions, sent

them away again to lead us thro' the Channell next the Main, and as soon

as the Yawl was on board made sail after them with the Ship. Soon after

we discover'd rocks and Shoals in this Channell, upon which I made the

Signal for the boats to lead thro' the next Channel to the Northward* (*

This led to Endeavour Strait, but the recognised track is the channel

farther north.) laying between the Islands, which they accordingly did,

we following with the Ship, and had not less than 5 fathoms; and this in

the narrowest part of the Channel, which was about a Mile and a 1/2 broad

from Island to Island. At 4 o'Clock we Anchor'd about a Mile and a 1/2 or

2 Miles within the Entrance in 6 1/2 fathoms, clear ground, distance from

the Islands on each side of us one Mile, the Main land extending away to

the South-West; the farthest point of which we could see bore from us

South 48 degrees West, and the Southermost point of the Islands, on the

North-West side of the Passage, bore South 76 degrees West. Between these

2 points we could see no land, so that we were in great hopes that we had

at last found out a Passage into the Indian seas; but in order to be

better informed I landed with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks

and Dr. Solander, upon the Islands which lies at the South-East point of

the Passage. Before and after we Anchor'd we saw a Number of People upon

this Island, Arm'd in the same manner as all the others we have seen,

Except one man, who had a bow and a bundle of Arrows, the first we have

seen upon this Coast. From the appearance of the people we expected they

would have opposed our landing; but as we approached the shore they all

made off, and left us in peaceable possession of as much of the Island as

served our purpose. After landing I went upon the highest hill, which,

however, was of no great height, yet no less than twice or thrice the

height of the Ship's Mastheads; but I could see from it no land between

South-West and West-South-West, so that I did not doubt but there was a

passage. I could see plainly that the lands laying to the North-West of

this passage were compos'd of a number of Islands of Various extent, both

for height and Circuit, ranged one behind another as far to the Northward

and Westward as I could see, which could not be less than 12 or 14

Leagues.

Having satisfied myself of the great Probability of a passage, thro'

which I intend going with the Ship, and therefore may land no more upon

this Eastern coast of New Holland, and on the Western side I can make no

new discovery, the honour of which belongs to the Dutch Navigators, but

the Eastern Coast from the Latitude of 38 degrees South down to this

place, I am confident, was never seen or Visited by any European before

us; and notwithstanding I had in the Name of his Majesty taken possession

of several places upon this Coast, I now once More hoisted English

Colours, and in the Name of His Majesty King George the Third took

possession of the whole Eastern coast from the above Latitude down to

this place by the Name of New Wales,* (* The Admiralty copy, as well as

that belonging to Her Majesty, calls it New South Wales. The island where

the ceremony was performed was named on Cook's chart Possession Island,

and is still so called.) together with all the Bays, Harbours, Rivers,

and Islands, situated upon the said Coast; after which we fired 3 Volleys

of small Arms, which were answer'd by the like number from the Ship.

This done, we set out for the Ship, but were some time in getting on

board on account of a very Rapid Ebb Tide, which set North-East out of

the Passage. Ever since we came in amongst the Shoals this last time we

have found a Moderate Tide; the flood setting to the North-West and Ebb

to the South-East; at this place is high water at full and change of the

moon, about 1 or 2 o'Clock, and riseth and falleth upon a perpendicular

about 10 or 12 feet. We saw upon all the Adjacent Lands and Islands a

great number of smokes--a certain sign that they are inhabited--and we

have daily seen smokes on every part of the Coast we have lately been

upon. Between 7 and 8 o'Clock a.m. we saw several naked people, all or

most of them Women, down upon the beach picking up Shells, etc.; they had

not a single rag of any kind of Cloathing upon them, and both these and

those we saw yesterday were in every respect the same sort of People we

have seen everywhere upon the Coast. 2 or 3 of the Men we saw Yesterday

had on pretty large breast plates, which we supposed were made of pearl

Oyster Shells; this was a thing, as well as the Bow and Arrows, we had

not seen before. At low water, which hapned about 10 o'Clock, we got

under sail, and stood to the South-West, with a light breeze at East,

which afterwards veer'd to North by East, having the Pinnace ahead; depth

of Water from 6 to 10 fathoms, except in one place, were we passed over a

Bank of 5 fathoms. At Noon Possession Island, at the South-East entrance

of the Passage, bore North 53 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues; the

Western extream of the Main land in sight South 43 degrees West, distant

4 or 5 Leagues, being all exceeding low. The South-West point of the

largest Island* (* Prince of Wales Island.) on the North-West side of the

passage bore North 71 degrees West, distant 8 Miles; this point I named

Cape Cornwall (Latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes South, Longitude 218

degrees 59 minutes West),* (* This longitude is 70 minutes too far west,

and one of the worst given in the Journal. There were no observations,

and the dead reckoning among the shoals was difficult to keep.) and some

low Islands lying about the Middle of the Passage, which I called

Wallace's Isles, bore West by South 1/2 South, distance about 2 Leagues.

Our Latitude by Observation was 10 degrees 46 minutes South.

[In Endeavour Strait, Torres Strait.]

Thursday, 23rd. In the P.M. had little wind and Variable, with which and

the Tide of Flood we keept advancing to the West-North-West; depth of

Water 8, 7, and 5 fathoms. At 1/2 past 1 the pinnace, which was ahead,

made the Signal for Shoal Water, upon which we Tackt and sent away the

Yawl to sound also, and then Tack'd again, and stood after them with the

Ship; 2 hours after this they both at once made the Signal for having

Shoal water. I was afraid to stand on for fear of running aground at that

time of the Tide, and therefore came to an Anchor in 1/4 less 7 fathoms,

sandy ground. Wallice's Islands bore South by West 1/2 West, distant 5 or

6 Miles, the Islands to the Northward extending from North 73 degrees

East to North 10 degrees East, and a small island* (* Booby Island.) just

in sight bearing North-West 1/2 West. Here we found the flood Tide set to

the Westward and Ebb to the Contrary. After we had come to Anchor I sent

away the Master with the Long boat to sound, who, upon his return in the

evening, reported that there was a bank stretching North and South, upon

which were 3 fathoms Water, and behind it 7 fathoms. We had it Calm all

Night and until 9 in the morning, at which time we weigh'd, with a light

breeze at South-South-East, and steer'd North-West by West for the Small

Island above mentioned, having first sent the Boats ahead to sound; depth

of Water 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms when upon the Bank,* (* The

Endeavour Strait is now little used, on account of this great bank, which

nearly bars its western part. There is, however, deeper water than Cook

found, a few miles to the southward; but it is just the difficulty of

finding this narrow pass, so far from land, and the fact that there is a

deep though narrow channel north of Prince of Wales Island, that has

caused it to be abandoned. The passage of Torres Strait is, however,

still an anxious bit of navigation.) it being now the last Quarter Ebb.

At this time the most Northermost Islands we had in sight bore North 9

degrees East; the South-West point of the largest Islands on the

North-West side of the Passage, which I named Cape Cornwall, bore East;

distant 3 Leagues. This bank, at least so much as we sounded, extends

nearly North and South, how far I cannot say; its breadth, however, is

not more than 1/4 or at most 1/2 a Mile. Being over the Bank, we deepned

our water to a 1/4 less 7 fathoms, which depth we carried all the way to

the small Island ahead, which we reached by Noon, at which time it bore

South, distant near 1/2 a Mile; depth of Water 5 fathoms. The most

northermost land we had in sight (being part of the same Chain of Islands

we have had to the Northward of us since we entered the Passage) bore

North 71 degrees East; Latitude in, by Observation, 10 degrees 33 minutes

South, Longitude 219 degrees 22 minutes West. In this situation we had no

part of the Main land in sight. Being now near the island, and having but

little wind, Mr. Banks and I landed upon it, and found it to be mostly a

barren rock frequented by Birds, such as Boobies, a few of which we

shott, and occasioned my giving it the name of Booby Island.* (* Booby

Island is now the great landmark for ships making Torres Strait from the

westward. There is a light upon it.) I made but very short stay at this

Island before I return'd to the Ship; in the meantime the wind had got to

the South-West, and although it blow'd but very faint, yet it was

accompanied with a Swell from the same quarter. This, together with other

concuring Circumstances, left me no room to doubt but we had got to the

Westward of Carpentaria, or the Northern extremity of New Holland, and

had now an open Sea to the Westward; which gave me no small satisfaction,

not only because the danger and fatigues of the Voyage was drawing near

to an end, but by being able to prove that New Holland and New Guinea are

2 separate Lands or Islands, which until this day hath been a doubtful

point with Geographers.* (* Luis Vaez de Torres, commanding a Spanish

ship in company with Quiros in 1605, separated from his companion in the

New Hebrides. He afterwards passed through the Strait separating New

Guinea from Australia, which now bears his name. This fact, however, was

little known, as the Spaniards suppressed all account of the voyage; and

though it leaked out later, the report was so vague that it was very much

doubted whether he had really passed this way. On most charts and maps of

the period, New Guinea was shown joined to Australia, and to Cook the

establishment of the Strait may fairly be given. Only the year before

Bougainville, the French navigator, who preceded Cook across the Pacific,

and who was steering across the Coral Sea on a course which would have

led him to Lizard Island, abandoned his search in that direction, after

falling in with two reefs to the eastward of the Barrier, because he

feared falling amongst other shoals, and had no faith whatever in the

reports of the existence of Torres Strait. Had he persevered, he would

have snatched from Cook the honour of the complete exploration of Eastern

Australia, and of the verification of the passage between it and New

Guinea. Bougainville paid dearly for his caution, as he found that

retracing his steps against the trade wind, in order to pass eastward and

northward of New Guinea, occupied such a weary time, that he and his

people were nearly starved before they reached a place of refreshment.)

[Description of Endeavour Strait.]

The North-East entrance of this passage or Strait lies in the Latitude of

10 degrees 27 minutes South, and in the Longitude of 218 degrees 36

minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich.* (* As before mentioned,

this longitude is over a degree in error. The sun was not available for

lunars until the 24th August, and the first was observed on the 25th,

when the ship was at Booby Island; but the result is not recorded in Mr.

Green's log. Mr. Green was at this time ill. The latitude is a clerical

error for 10.37, which Cook's chart shows, and is nearly correct.) It is

form'd by the Main, or the northern extremity of New Holland, on the

South-East, and by a Congeries of Islands to North-West, which I named

Prince of Wales's Islands. It is very Probable that the Islands extend

quite to New Guinea;* (* This conjecture was very near the truth. The

whole of Torres Strait is obstructed by either islands or reefs that

leave very little passage.) they are of Various Extent both for height

and Circuit, and many of them seem'd to be indifferently well Cloath'd

with wood, etc., and, from the smokes we saw, some, if not all of them,

must be inhabited. It is also very probable that among these Islands are

as good, if not better, passages than the one we have come thro', altho'

one need hardly wish for a better, was the access to it from the Eastward

less dangerous; but this difficulty will remain until some better way is

found out than the one we came, which no doubt may be done was it ever to

become an object to be looked for.* (* It is the western and not the

eastern approach of Endeavour Strait that forms the difficulty, now the

locality has been charted, for vessels of deeper draught than the

Endeavour; though for small craft, as Cook says, you can hardly wish for

a better.) The northern Extent of the Main or outer reef, which limit or

bounds the Shoals to the Eastward, seems to be the only thing wanting to

Clear up this point; and this was a thing I had neither time nor

inclination to go about, having been already sufficiently harrass'd with

dangers without going to look for more.* (* The east coast of Australia,

which Cook had now followed from end to end, is 2000 miles in extent. He

took four months over it, much less time than he had given to New

Zealand; but this is easily accounted for. His people were getting worn

out, and he was haunted by fears of not getting off the coast before the

North-West monsoon set in, which would have been a foul wind for him in

getting from Torres Straits to Batavia, and his provisions were running

short. Besides this, there was the grave doubt whether Australia and New

Guinea were really separated. If this turned out to be false, there was a

long round to make, back to the eastern extremity of the latter, and the

voyage to Batavia would have been infinitely extended. Considering these

circumstances, Cook's exploration of the coast was wonderful, and the

charts attached to this book attest the skill and unwearied pains taken

in mapping it from such a cursory glance. He only stopped at four places:

Botany Bay, Bustard Bay, Thirsty Sound, and the Endeavour River; and from

the neighbourhood of these, with the view obtained as he coasted along,

he had to form his opinion of the country--an opinion, as we shall see,

singularly correct.)

This passage, which I have named Endeavour Straits, after the Name of the

Ship, is in length North-East and South-West 10 Leagues, and about 5

leagues broad, except at the North-East entrance, where it is only 2

Miles broad by reason of several small Islands which lay there, one of

which, called Possession Island, is of a Moderate height and Circuit;

this we left between us and the Main, passing between it and 2 Small

round Islands, which lay North-West 2 Miles from it. There are also 2

Small low Islands, called Wallice's Isles,* (* These are probably called

after Captain Wallis, who made a voyage across the Pacific in the Dolphin

in 1767, and discovered Tahiti.) laying in the Middle of the South-West

entrance, which we left to the southward; the depth of Water we found in

the Straits was from 4 to 9 fathoms. Every where good Anchorage, only

about 2 Leagues to the Northward of Wallice's Islands is a Bank, whereon

is not more than 3 fathoms at low Water, but probable there might be

found more was it sought for. I have not been particular in describing

this Strait, no more than I have been in pointing out the respective

Situations of the Islands, Shoals, etc., on the Coast of New Wales; for

these I refer to the Chart, where they are deliniated with all the

accuracy that Circumstances would admit of.

With respect to the Shoals that lay upon this Coast I must observe, for

the benefit of those who may come after me, that I do not believe the one

1/2 of them are laid down in my Chart; for it would be Absurd to suppose

that we Could see or find them all. And the same thing may in some

Measure be said of the Islands, especially between the Latitude of 20 and

22 degrees, where we saw Islands out at Sea as far as we could

distinguish any thing. However, take the Chart in general, and I believe

it will be found to contain as few Errors as most Sea Charts which have

not undergone a thorough correction.* (* Cook's pride in his chart is

well justified, as its general accuracy is marvellous, when one considers

that he simply sailed along the coast. The great feature of this shore,

however--the Barrier Reef--only appears on it at its northern end, where

its approach to the land caused Cook to make such unpleasant acquaintance

with it. See charts.) The Latitude and Longitude of all, or most of, the

principal head lands, Bays, etc., may be relied on, for we seldom fail'd

of getting an Observation every day to correct our Latitude by, and the

Observation for settling the Longitude were no less Numerous, and made as

often as the Sun and Moon came in play; so that it was impossible for any

Material error to creep into our reckoning in the intermediate times. In

justice to Mr. Green,* (* From this phrase, and from various remarks in

Mr. Green's own log, it would appear that Mr. Green was not very easy to

get on with; but there is no doubt of his unwearied zeal in astronomical

observations.) I must say that he was indefatigable in making and

calculating these observations, which otherwise must have taken up a

great deal of my time, which I could not at all times very well spare;

not only this, but by his instructions several of the petty Officers can

make and calculate these observations almost as well as himself. It is

only by such Means that this method of finding the Longitude at Sea can

be put into universal practice; a Method that we have generally found may

be depended upon within 1/2 a degree, which is a degree of Accuracy more

than sufficient for all Nautical purposes. Would Sea Officers once apply

themselves to the making and calculating these Observations they would

not find them so very difficult as they at first imagine, especially with

the Assistance of the Nautical Almanack and Astronomical Ephemeris, by

the help of which the Calculation for finding the Longitude takes up but

little more time than that of an Azimuth for finding the Variation of the

Compass; but unless this Ephemeris is Published for some time to come,

more than either one or 2 Years, it can never be of general use in long

Voyages, and in short Voyages it's not so much wanted.* (* The "Nautical

Almanac" was first published for 1767. That for 1770 was not published

until 1769; but it seems probable that Cook either had proof sheets, or

the manuscript calculations.) Without it the Calculations are Laborious

and discouraging to beginners, and such as are not well vers'd in these

kind of Calculations.

[Account of New South Wales Coast.]

SOME ACCOUNT OF NEW WALES.* (* Called in Admiralty and the Queen's Copy

New South Wales. It would appear that for this part of the voyage Mr.

Corner's copy was the first written, and that Cook's first idea was to

christen the country New Wales.)

In the Course of this Journal I have at different times made mention of

the Appearance or Aspect of the face of the Country, the Nature of the

Soil, its produce, etc. By the first it will appear that to the Southward

of 33 or 34 degrees the land in general is low and level, with very few

Hills or Mountains; further to the Northward it may in some places be

called a Hilly, but hardly anywhere can be called a Mountainous, Country,

for the Hills and Mountains put together take up but a small part of the

Surface in Comparison to what the Planes and Valleys do which intersect

or divide these Hills and Mountains. It is indifferently well water'd,

even in the dry Seasons, with small brooks and Springs, but no great

Rivers, unless it be in the Wet Season, when the low lands and Vallies

near the Sea, I do suppose, are mostly laid under Water. The Small Brooks

may then become large Rivers; but this can only happen with the Tropick.

It was only in Thirsty Sound that we could find no fresh Water, and that

no doubt was owing to the Country being there very much intersected with

Salt Creeks and Mangrove land.

The low land by the Sea, and even as far in land as we were, is for the

most part friable, loose, sandy Soil yet indifferently fertile, and

Cloathed with woods, long grass, shrubs, plants, etc. The Mountains or

Hills are checquer'd with woods and Lawns; some of the Hills are wholy

cover'd with Flourishing Trees; others but thinly, and the few that are

upon them are small, and the spot of Lawns or Savannahs are rocky and

barren, especially to the Northward, where the Country did not afford or

produce near the Vegetation that it does to the Southward, nor were the

Trees in the Woods half so tall and stout. The Woods do not produce any

great variety of Trees; there are only 2 or 3 sorts that can be called

Timber. The largest is the gum Tree, which grows all over the country;

the wood of this Tree is too hard and ponderous for most common uses. The

Tree which resembles our Pines I saw nowhere in perfection but in Botany

Bay; this wood, as I have before observed, is something of the same

Nature as American Live Oak; in short, most of the large Trees in this

Country are of a hard and ponderous nature, and could not be applied to

many purposes. Here are several sorts of the Palm kind, Mangrove, and

several other sorts of small Trees and Shrubs quite unknown to me,

besides a very great number of Plants hitherto unknown; but these things

are wholy out of my way to describe, nor will this be of any loss, since

not only plants, but every thing that can be of use to the Learned World

will be very accurately described by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. The Land

naturally produces hardly anything fit for Man to eat, and the Natives

know nothing of Cultivation. There are, indeed, growing wild in the wood

a few sorts of Fruit (the most of them unknown to us), which when ripe do

not eat amiss, one sort especially, which we called Apples, being about

the size of a Crab Apple it is black and pulpey when ripe, and tastes

like a Damson; it hath a large hard stone or Kernel, and grows on Trees

or Shrubs.* (* The Black Apple, or Sapota Australis.)

In the Northern parts of the Country, as about Endeavour River, and

probably in many other places, the Boggy or watery Lands produce Taara or

Cocos,* (* A species of Taro, Colocasia macrorhiza.) which, when properly

cultivated, are very good roots, without which they are hardly eatable;

the Tops, however, make very good greens.

Land Animals are scarce, so far as we know confin'd to a very few

species; all that we saw I have before mentioned. The sort which is in

the greatest Plenty is the Kangooroo or Kanguru, so called by the

Natives; we saw a good many of them about Endeavour River, but kill'd

only 3, which we found very good Eating. Here are likewise Lizards,

Snakes, Scorpions, Centapees, etc., but not in any plenty. Tame Animals

they have none but Dogs, and of these we saw but one, and therefore must

be very scarce, probably they eat them faster than they breed them; we

should not have seen this one had he not made us frequent Visits while we

lay in Endeavour River.

The land Fowls are Bustards, Eagles, Hawks, Crows, such as we have in

England, Cockatoes of 2 sorts, White and Brown, very beautiful Birds of

the Parrot kind, such as Lorryquets, etc., Pidgeons, Doves, Quails, and

several sorts of smaller birds. The Sea and Water Fowls are Herons,

Boobies, Noddies, Guls, Curlews, Ducks, Pelicans, etc., and when Mr.

Banks and Mr. Gore where in the Country, at the head of Endeavour River,

they saw and heard in the Night great numbers of Geese. The Sea is

indifferently well stocked with fish of Various sorts, such as Sharks,

Dog-fish, Rockfish, Mullets, Breams, Cavallies, Mack'rel, old wives,

Leather Jackets, Five Fingers,* (* Old wives are Enoploxus Armatus;

Leather jackets, Monacanthus; Five fingers, Chilodactylus.) Sting rays,

Whip rays, etc., all excellent in their kind. The Shell fish are Oysters

of 3 or 4 sorts, viz., Rock Oysters and Mangrove Oysters, which are

small, Pearl Oysters and Mud Oysters; these last are the best and Largest

I ever saw. Cockles and Clams of several sorts, many of those that are

found upon the Reefs are of a prodigious size, Craw fish, Crabs, Muscles,

and a variety of other sorts. Here are also upon the Shoals and Reefs

great Numbers of the finest Green Turtle in the world, and in the River

and Salt Creeks are some Aligators.

[Australian Natives.]

The Natives of this Country are of a middle Stature, streight Bodied and

Slender limb'd; their Skins the Colour of Wood soot, their Hair mostly

black, some Lank and others curled; they all wear it Cropt Short; their

Beards, which are generally black, they likewise crop short, or Singe

off. There features are far from being disagreeable, and their Voices are

soft and Tunable. They go quite Naked, both Men and Women, without any

manner of Cloathing whatever; even the Women do not so much as cover

their privities, altho' None of us was ever very near any of their Women,

one Gentleman excepted, yet we are all of us as well satisfied of this as

if we had lived among them. Notwithstanding we had several interviews

with the Men while we lay in Endeavour River, yet, wether through

Jealousy or disregard, they never brought any of their women along with

them to the Ship, but always left them on the Opposite side of the River,

where we had frequent Opportunities viewing them thro' our Glasses. They

wear as Ornaments, Necklaces made of Shells, Bracelets, or Hoops, about

their Arms, made mostly of Hair Twisted and made like a Cord Hoop; these

they wear tight about the upper parts of their Arms, and some have

Girdles made in the same manner. The Men wear a bone, about 3 or 4 Inches

long and a finger's thick, run thro' the Bridge* (* The cartilage of the

nostril. Banks mentions that the bluejackets called this queer ornament

the "spritsail yard.") of their Nose; they likewise have holes in their

Ears for Ear Rings, but we never saw them wear any; neither are all the

other Ornaments wore in Common, for we have seen as many without as with

them. Some of these we saw on Possession Island wore breast plates, which

we supposed were made of Mother of Pearl Shells. Many of them paint their

Bodies and faces with a Sort of White paste or Pigment; this they apply

different ways, each according to his fancy.

Their offensive weapons are Darts; some are only pointed at one end,

others are barb'd, some with wood, others with Stings of rays, and some

with Sharks' Teeth, etc.; these last are stuck fast on with Gum. They

throw the Darts with only one hand, in the doing of which they make use

of a piece of wood about 3 feet long, made thin like the blade of a

Cutlass, with a little hook at one End to take hold of the End of the

dart, and at the other end is fix'd a thin piece of bone about 3 or 4

Inches long; the use of this is, I believe, to keep the dart steady, and

to make it quit the hand in a proper direction. By the helps of these

throwing sticks, as we call them, they will hit a mark at the Distance of

40 or 50 yards, with almost, if not as much, Certainty as we can do with

a Musquet, and much more so than with a ball.* (* The invention of these

throwing sticks, and of the Boomerang, is sufficient to prove the

intelligence of the Australian aborigines.) These throwing sticks we at

first took for wooden swords, and perhaps on some occasions they may use

them as such; that is, when all their darts are expended. Be this as it

may, they never Travel without both them and their Darts, not for fear of

Enemies, but for killing of Game, etc., as I shall show hereafter. There

defensive weapons are Targets, made of wood; but these we never saw used

but once in Botany Bay.

I do not look upon them to be a warlike people; on the contrary, I think

them a Timerous and inoffensive race, no ways inclined to Cruelty, as

appear'd from their behaviour to one of our people in Endeavour River,

which I have before mentioned, neither are they very numerous. They live

in small parties along by the Sea Coast, the banks of Lakes, Rivers,

Creeks, etc. They seem to have no fixed habitation, but move about from

place to place like wild beasts in search of Food, and, I believe, depend

wholy upon the Success of the present day for their Subsistance. They

have wooden fish Gigs, with 2, 3, or 4 prongs, each very ingeniously

made, with which they strike fish. We have also seen them strike both

fish and birds with their Darts. With these they likewise kill other

Animals; they have also wooden Harpoons for striking Turtle, but of these

I believe they get but few, except at the seasons they come ashore to

lay. In short, these people live wholy by fishing and hunting, but mostly

by the former, for we never saw one Inch of Cultivated land in the whole

Country. They know, however, the use of Taara, and sometimes eat them; we

do not know that they Eat anything raw, but roast or broil all they eat

on slow small fires. Their Houses are mean, small Hovels, not much bigger

than an Oven, made of Peices of Sticks, Bark, Grass, etc., and even these

are seldom used but in the Wet seasons, for in the daytimes we know they

as often sleep in the Open Air as anywhere else. We have seen many of

their Sleeping places, where there has been only some branches or peices

of Bark, grass, etc., about a foot high on the Windward side.

[Australian Canoes.]

Their Canoes are as mean as can be conceived, especially to the

Southward, where all we saw were made of one peice of the Bark of Trees

about 12 or 14 feet long, drawn or Tied together at one end. As I have

before made mention, these Canoes will not Carry above 2 people, in

general there is never more than one in them; but, bad as they are, they

do very well for the purpose they apply them to, better than if they were

larger, for as they draw but little water they go in them upon the Mud

banks, and pick up Shell fish, etc., without going out of the Canoe. The

few Canoes we saw to the Northward were made out of a Log of wood

hollow'd out, about 14 feet long and very narrow, with outriggers; these

will carry 4 people. During our whole stay in Endeavour River we saw but

one Canoe, and had great reason to think that the few people that resided

about that place had no more; this one served them to cross the River and

to go a Fishing in, etc. They attend the Shoals, and flatts, one where or

another, every day at low water to gather Shell fish, or whatever they

can find to eat, and have each a little bag to put what they get in; this

bag is made of net work. They have not the least knowledge of Iron or any

other Metal that we know of; their working Tools must be made of Stone,

bone, and Shells; those made of the former are very bad, if I may judge

from one of their Adzes I have seen.

Bad and mean as their Canoes are, they at Certain seasons of the Year (so

far as we know) go in them to the most distant Islands which lay upon the

Coast, for we never landed upon one but what we saw signs of People

having been there before. We were surprized to find Houses, etc., upon

Lizard Island, which lies 5 Leagues from the nearest part of the Main; a

distance we before thought they could not have gone in their Canoes.

The Coast of this Country, at least so much of it as lays to the

Northward of 25 degrees of Latitude, abounds with a great Number of fine

bays and Harbours, which are Shelter'd from all winds; but the Country

itself, so far as we know, doth not produce any one thing that can become

an Article in Trade to invite Europeans to fix a settlement upon it.

However, this Eastern side is not that barren and miserable country that

Dampier and others have described the Western side to be. We are to

consider that we see this country in the pure state of nature; the

Industry of Man has had nothing to do with any part of it, and yet we

find all such things as nature hath bestow'd upon it in a flourishing

state. In this Extensive Country it can never be doubted but what most

sorts of Grain, Fruit, roots, etc., of every kind would flourish here

were they once brought hither, planted and Cultivated by the hands of

Industry; and here are Provender for more Cattle, at all seasons of the

Year, than ever can be brought into the Country.* (* It says a good deal

for Cook's penetration that he wrote like this, for the coast of

Australia is not promising, especially in the dry season; and coming as

he did from the more apparently fertile countries of Tahiti and New

Zealand, Australia must have appeared but a barren land.) When one

considers the Proximity of this Country with New Guinea, New Britain, and

several other Islands which produce Cocoa Nutts and many other fruits

proper for the support of man, it seems strange that they should not long

ago be Transplanted here; by its not being done it should seem that the

Natives of this Country have no commerce with their Neighbours, the New

Guineans.* (* The climate is too dry for the cocoanut palm.) It is very

probable that they are a different people, and speak a different

Language. For the advantage of such as want to Clear up this point I

shall add a small Vocabulary of a few Words in the New Holland Language

which we learnt when in Endeavour River.* (* The languages of the

different tribes differ very much. This results from the continual state

of war in which they live, as they have no communication the one with the

other.)

COLUMN 1: ENGLISH.

COLUMN 2: NEW HOLLAND.

The Head : Whageegee.

The Hair of the head : Morye or More.

The Eyes : Meul.

The Ears : Melea.

The Lips : Yembe or Jembi.

The Teeth : Mulere or Moile.

The Chinn : Jaeal.

The Beard : Waller.

The Tongue : Unjar.

The Nose : Bonjoo.

The Naval : Toolpoor or Julpur.

The Penis : Keveil or Kerrial.

The Scrotum : Coonal or Kunnol.

The Arms : Aw or Awl.

The Hand : Marigal.

The Thumb : Eboorbalga.

The Fore, Middle and Ring fingers : Egalbaiga.

Little Finger : Nakil or Eboonakil.

The Thighs : Coman.

The Knees : Ponga.

The Legs : Peegoorgo.

The Feet : Edamal.

The Nails : Kolke or Kulke.

A Stone : Walba.

Sand : Joo'wal, Yowall, or Joralba.

A Rope or Line : Goorgo or Gurka.

Fire : Maianang or Meanang.

The Sun : Galan or Gallan.

The Sky : Kere or Kearre.

A Father : Dunjo.

A Son : Jumurre.

A Man : Bamma or Ba ma.

A Dog : Cotta or Kota.

A Lorryquet : Perpere or Pier-pier.

A Cocatoo : Wanda.

Male Turtle : Poonja or Poinja.

Female : Mamingo.

A great Cockle : Moenjo or Moingo.

Cocos Yams : Maracotu (?).

A Canoe : Maragan.

[Australian Natives.]

From what I have said of the Natives of New Holland they may appear to

some to be the most wretched People upon Earth; but in reality they are

far more happier than we Europeans, being wholy unacquainted not only

with the Superfluous, but with the necessary Conveniences so much sought

after in Europe; they are happy in not knowing the use of them. They live

in a Tranquility which is not disturbed by the Inequality of Condition.

The earth and Sea of their own accord furnishes them with all things

necessary for Life. They covet not Magnificient Houses, Household-stuff,

etc.; they live in a Warm and fine Climate, and enjoy every wholesome

Air, so that they have very little need of Cloathing; and this they seem

to be fully sencible of, for many to whom we gave Cloth, etc., left it

carelessly upon the Sea beach and in the Woods, as a thing they had no

manner of use for; in short, they seem'd to set no Value upon anything we

gave them, nor would they ever part with anything of their own for any

one Article we could offer them. This, in my opinion, Argues that they

think themselves provided with all the necessarys of Life, and that they

have no Superfluities.* (* The native Australians may be happy in their

condition, but they are without doubt among the lowest of mankind.

Confirmed cannibals, they lose no opportunity of gratifying their love of

human flesh. Mothers will kill and eat their own children, and the women

again are often mercilessly illtreated by their lords and masters. There

are no chiefs, and the land is divided into sections, occupied by

families, who consider everything in their district as their own.

Internecine war exists between the different tribes, which are very

small. Their treachery, which is unsurpassed, is simply an outcome of

their savage ideas, and in their eyes is a form of independence which

resents any intrusion on THEIR land, THEIR wild animals, and THEIR rights

generally. In their untutored state they therefore consider that any

method of getting rid of the invader is proper. Both sexes, as Cook

observed, are absolutely nude, and lead a wandering life, with no fixed

abode, subsisting on roots, fruits, and such living things as they can

catch. Nevertheless, although treated by the coarser order of colonists

as wild beasts to be extirpated, those who have studied them have formed

favourable opinions of their intelligence. The more savage side of their

disposition being, however, so very apparent, it is not astonishing that,

brought into contact with white settlers, who equally consider that they

have a right to settle, the aborigines are rapidly disappearing.)

I shall conclude the account of this Country with a few observations on

the Currents and Tides upon the Coast, because I have mentioned in the

Course of this Journal that the latter hath sometimes set one way and

sometimes another, which I shall Endeavour to account for in the best

manner I can. From the Latitude of 32 degrees, or above downwards to

Sandy Cape in the Latitude of 24 degrees 46 minutes, we constantly found

a Current setting to the Southward at the rate of 10 or 15 Miles per Day,

more or less, according to the distance we were from the land, for it

runs stronger in shore than in the Offing. All this time I had not been

able to satisfy myself whether the flood-tide came from the Southward,

Eastward, or Northward, but judged it to come from the South-East; but

the first time we anchor'd upon the coast, which was in the Latitude of

24 degrees 30 minutes, and about 10 Leagues to the South-East of Bustard

Bay, we found there the flood to come from the North-West. On the

Contrary, 30 Leagues further to the North-West, on the South side of

Keppel Bay, we found the Flood to come from the East, and at the Northern

part of the said Bay we found it come from the Northward, but with a much

Slower Motion than the Easterly Tide. Again, on the East side of the Bay

of Inlets we found the flood to set strong to the Westward as far as the

Op'ning of Broad sound, but on the North side of that sound the flood

come with a Slow motion from the North-West; and when at Anchor before

Repulse bay we found the flood to come from the northward. We need only

admit the flood tide to come from the East or South-East, and then all

these seeming Contradictions will be found to be conformable to reason

and experience. It is well known that where there are deep Inlets, large

Creeks, etc., into low lands, that it is not occasioned by fresh water

Rivers; there is a very great indraught of the Flood Tide, the direction

of which will be determin'd according to the possition or direction of

the Coast which forms the Entrance into such Inlets; and this direction

the Tide must follow, let it be ever so contrary to their general Course

out at Sea, and where the Tides are weak, as they are in general upon

this Coast, a large Inlet will, if I may so call it, attract the Flood

tide for many Leagues. Any one need only cast an Eye over the Chart to be

made sencible of what I have advanced. To the Northward of Whitsundays

Passage there are few or no large Inlets, and consequently the Flood sets

to the Northward or North-West, according to the direction of the Coast,

and Ebb the Contrary; but this is to be understood at a little distance

from land, or where there is no Creeks or Inlets, for where such are, be

they ever so small, they draw the flood from the Southward, Eastward, and

Northward, and, as I found by experience, while we lay in Endeavour

River.* (* Cook's reasoning on the course of the flood stream is quite

sound.) Another thing I have observed upon the Tides which ought to be

remarked, which is that there is only one high Tide in 24 Hours, and that

is the night Tide. On the Spring Tides the difference between the

perpendicular rise of the night and day Tides is not less than 3 feet,

which is a great deal where the Tides are so inconsiderable, as they are

here.* (* This difference in the heights of consecutive tides is termed

the diurnal inequality. It results from the tide wave being made up of a

large number of undulations, some caused by the moon, some by the sun;

some occurring twice a day, others only once. It occurs in all parts of

the world, but is inconspicuous on the coasts of Europe. In Australia it

is very marked, and occasions the night tides to be the highest at one

time of the year, when the Endeavour was on the coast, and the day tides

at the other. There are places on the east coast of Australia where the

range of the tide is very great, but Cook did not anchor at any of them.)

This inequality of the Tide I did not observe till we run ashore; perhaps

it is much more so to the Northward than to the Southward. After we had

got within the Reefs the second time we found the Tides more considerable

than at any time before, except in the Bay of Inlets. It may be owing to

the water being confin'd in Channels between the Shoals, but the flood

always set to the North-West to the extremity of New Wales, from thence

West and South-West into the India Seas.

[Historical Notes, East Coast of Australia.]

HISTORICAL NOTES ON THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.

PREVIOUS to Cook's visit no European, so far as is known, had ever

sighted the East Coast of Australia, or, as it was then called, New

Holland. The Dutch had examined and mapped the shores from the Gulf of

Carpentaria on the north round by the west to Van Dieman's Land or

Tasmania, but had not decided whether the latter was a part of the

mainland or no. Dampier, in 1699, had the intention of passing south to

explore the unknown eastern shore, but never carried it out, confining

his attention to the northern part of the west coast, with which, and

with good reason, he was not favourably impressed.

On all maps of the time, the east coast, from Tasmania to the north, was

shown as a dotted and more or less straight line, Tasmania being joined

at the south, and generally New Guinea at the north.

There is indeed one manuscript known as the Dauphin's Map, a copy of

which is in the British Museum, of the date of about 1540, which shows a

certain amount of the north-east coast, and has been thought by some to

prove that some one had visited it. But an inspection of it shows that it

is far more probably a case of imaginative coast drawing, such as occurs

in other places in the same map, and in many others of the same and later

dates, and there is certainly no record of any voyage to this coast.

After Cook's exploration it remained unvisited until 1788, when, owing

mainly to Banks' influence, Botany Bay was pitched upon as a convict

settlement, and a squadron, consisting of H.M.S. Sirius, the Supply brig,

3 storeships, and 6 transports, under the command of Captain Arthur

Phillip, R.N., which had sailed from England on May 13th, 1787, arrived

in that bay on January 18th, 1788, but immediately moved into Port

Jackson, where the settlement of Sydney was formed.

The early history of the Colony was one of struggle and starvation, and

it was many years before any prosperity was attained. In 1839 the

deportation of convicts ceased, but it was not until 1851, when gold was

found, that free settlers in any large number came to the Colony.

Queensland, formerly the northern part of New South Wales, was formed a

separate Colony in 1859.

A white population of about 1,500,000 now inhabits the eastern part of

Australia, first explored by Cook, and their numbers are rapidly

increasing.

Although the products of the Colonies are mainly agricultural and

mineral, a very large proportion of this population are in the large

towns.

Sydney contains 230,000, Newcastle 20,000, Brisbane 55,000, Rockhampton

13,000.

Wool, one of the staple products, is obtained from some 80,000,000 sheep,

which, as Cook foresaw, have thriven well; and with 8,000,000 head of

cattle supply another export in the shape of frozen meat. Coal and other

minerals employ a large number of people, and the total value of exports

amounts to about 24,000,000 pounds.

The uninhabited shores and untracked seas of Cook's time, only 120 years

ago, are thus now teeming with life and trade; and it is no wonder that

the name of the great explorer is more venerated, and the memory of his

deeds is more fresh, in the Colonies than in the Mother country that sent

him forth to find new fields for British enterprise.