CHAPTER 8. EXPLORATION OF EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.

[April 1770.]

THURSDAY, 19th. In the P.M. had fresh Gales at South-South-West and

Cloudy Squally weather, with a large Southerly Sea; at 6 took in the

Topsails, and at 1 A.M. brought too and Sounded, but had no ground with

130 fathoms of line. At 5, set the Topsails close reef'd, and 6, saw

land* (* The south-east coast of Australia. See chart.) extending from

North-East to West, distance 5 or 6 Leagues, having 80 fathoms, fine

sandy bottom. We continued standing to the Westward with the Wind at

South-South-West until 8, at which time we got Topgallant Yards a Cross,

made all sail, and bore away along shore North-East for the Eastermost

land we had in sight, being at this time in the Latitude of 37 degrees 58

minutes South, and Longitude of 210 degrees 39 minutes West. The

Southermost point of land we had in sight, which bore from us West 1/4

South, I judged to lay in the Latitude of 38 degrees 0 minutes South and

in the Longitude of 211 degrees 7 minutes West from the Meridian of

Greenwich. I have named it Point Hicks, because Lieutenant Hicks was the

first who discover'd this Land. To the Southward of this point we could

see no land, and yet it was clear in that Quarter, and by our Longitude

compared with that of Tasman's, the body of Van Diemen's land ought to

have bore due South from us, and from the soon falling of the Sea after

the wind abated I had reason to think it did; but as we did not see it,

and finding the Coast to trend North-East and South-West, or rather more

to the Westward, makes me Doubtfull whether they are one land or no.* (*

Had not the gale on the day before forced Cook to run to the northward,

he would have made the north end of the Furneaux Group, and probably have

discovered Bass Strait, which would have cleared up the doubt, which he

evidently felt, as to whether Tasmania was an island or not. The fact was

not positively known until Dr. Bass sailed through the Strait in a

whale-boat in 1797. Point Hicks was merely a rise in the coast-line,

where it dipped below the horizon to the westward, and the name of Point

Hicks Hill is now borne by an elevation that seems to agree with the

position.) However, every one who compares this Journal with that of

Tasman's will be as good a judge as I am; but it is necessary to observe

that I do not take the Situation of Vandiemen's from the Printed Charts,

but from the extract of Tasman's Journal, published by Dirk Rembrantse.

At Noon we were in the Latitude of 37 degrees 50 minutes and Longitude of

210 degrees 29 minutes West. The extreams of the Land extending from

North-West to East-North-East, a remarkable point, bore North 20 degrees

East, distant 4 Leagues. This point rises to a round hillock very much

like the Ramhead going into Plymouth sound, on which account I called it

by the same name; Latitude 37 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 210 degrees

22 minutes West. The Variation by an Azimuth taken this morning was 8

degrees 7 minutes East. What we have as yet seen of this land appears

rather low, and not very hilly, the face of the Country green and Woody,

but the Sea shore is all a white Sand.

Friday, 20th. In the P.M. and most part of the night had a fresh Gale

Westerly, with Squalls, attended with Showers of rain. In the A.M. had

the Wind at South-West, with Severe weather. At 1 p.m. saw 3 Water Spouts

at once; 2 were between us and the Shore, and one at some distance upon

our Larboard Quarter. At 6, shortned sail, and brought too for the Night,

having 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom. The Northermost land in sight bore

North by East 1/2 East, and a small Island* (* Gabo Island.) lying close

to a point on the Main bore West, distant 2 Leagues. This point I have

named Cape Howe* (* Cape Howe, called after Admiral Earl Howe, is the

south-east point of Australia. The position is almost exact.); it may be

known by the Trending of the Coast, which is North on the one Side and

South-West on the other. Latitude 37 degrees 28 minutes South; Longitude

210 degrees 3 minutes West. It may likewise be known by some round hills

upon the main just within it. Having brought too with her head off Shore,

we at 10 wore, and lay her head in until 4 a.m., at which time we made

sail along shore to the Northward. At 6, the Northermost land in sight

bore North, being at this time about 4 Leagues from the Land. At Noon we

were in the Latitude of 36 degrees 51 minutes South and Longitude of 209

degrees 53 minutes West, and 3 Leagues from the land. Course sail'd along

shore since Yesterday at Noon was first North 52 degrees East, 30 miles,

then North by East and North by West, 41 Miles. The weather being clear

gave us an opportunity to View the Country, which had a very agreeable

and promising aspect, diversified with hills, ridges, plains, and

Valleys, with some few small lawns; but for the most part the whole was

covered with wood, the hills and ridges rise with a gentle slope; they

are not high, neither are there many of them.

[Off Cape Dromedary, New South Wales.]

Saturday, 21st. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze, and Clear weather, with

which we coasted along shore to the Northward. In the P.M. we saw the

smoke of fire in several places; a Certain sign that the Country is

inhabited. At 6, being about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, we shortned

Sail, and Sounded and found 44 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Stood on under an

easey sail until 12 o'Clock, at which time we brought too until 4 A.M.,

when we made sail, having then 90 fathoms, 5 Leagues from the land. At 6,

we were abreast of a pretty high Mountain laying near the Shore, which,

on account of its figure, I named Mount Dromedary (Latitude 36 degrees 18

minutes South, Longitude 209 degrees 55 minutes West). The shore under

the foot of the Mountain forms a point, which I have named Cape

Dromedary, over which is a peaked hillock. At this time found the

Variation to be 10 degrees 42 minutes East. Between 10 and 11 o'Clock Mr.

Green and I took several Observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean

result of which gave 209 degrees 17 minutes West Longitude from the

Meridian of Greenwich. By observation made yesterday we were in the

Longitude 210 degrees 9 minutes. West 20 minutes gives 209 degrees 49

minutes the Longitude of the Ship to-day at noon per yesterday's

observation, the Mean of which and to-day's give 209 degrees 33 minutes

West, by which I fix the Longitude of this Coast. Our Latitude at Noon

was 35 degrees 49 minutes South; Cape Dromedary bore South 30 degrees

West, distant 12 Leagues. An Open Bay* (* Bateman Bay.) wherein lay 3 or

4 Small Islands, bore North-West by West, distant 5 or 6 Leagues. This

Bay seem'd to be but very little Shelter'd from the Sea Winds, and yet it

is the only likely Anchoring place I have yet seen upon the Coast.

Sunday, 22nd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South by West with which

we steer'd along shore North by East and North-North-East at the distance

of about 3 Leagues. Saw the smoke of fire in several places near the Sea

beach. At 5, we were abreast of a point of land which, on account of its

perpendicular Clifts, I call'd Point Upright; Latitude 35 degrees 35

minutes South; it bore from us due West, distant 2 Leagues, and in this

Situation had 31 fathoms, Sandy bottom. At 6, falling little wind, we

hauld off East-North-East; at this time the Northermost land in sight

bore North by East 1/2 East, and at midnight, being in 70 fathoms, we

brought too until 4 A.M., at which time we made sail in for the land, and

at daylight found ourselves nearly in the same Place we were at 5 o'Clock

in the evening, by which it was apparent that we had been drove about 3

Leagues to the Southward by a Tide or Current in the night. After this we

steer'd along shore North-North-East, having a Gentle breeze at

South-West, and were so near the Shore as to distinguish several people

upon the Sea beach. They appeared to be of a very dark or black Colour;

but whether this was the real Colour of their skins or the Cloathes they

might have on I know not. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude

of 35 degrees 27 minutes and Longitude 209 degrees 23 minutes; Cape

Dromedary bore South 28 degrees West, distance 15 Leagues. A remarkable

peak'd hill laying inland, the Top of which looked like a Pigeon house,

and occasioned my giving it that name, bore North 32 degrees 33 minutes

West, and a small low Island, laying close under the Shore, bore

North-West, distance 2 or 3 Leagues; Variation of the Compass 9 degrees

50 minutes East. When we first discover'd this Island in the morning I

was in hopes, from its appearance, that we should have found Shelter for

the Ship behind it; but when we came to approach it near I did not think

that there was even security for a Boat to land. But this, I believe, I

should have attempted had not the wind come on Shore, after which I did

not think it safe to send a Boat from the Ship, as we had a large hollow

Sea from the South-East rowling in upon the land, which beat every where

very high upon the Shore; and this we have had ever since we came upon

the Coast. The land near the Sea coast still continues of a moderate

height, forming alternately rocky points and Sandy beaches; but inland,

between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon house, are several pretty high

Mountains, 2 only of which we saw but what were covered with Trees, and

these lay inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat a Top,

with Steep rocky clifts all round them. As far as we could see the Trees

in this Country hath all the appearance of being stout and lofty. For

these 2 days past the observed Latitude hath been 12 or 14 Miles to the

Southward of the Ship's account given by the Log, which can be owing to

nothing but a Current set to the Southward.

Monday, 23rd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at East, which in the night

veer'd to North-East and North. At 1/2 past 4 P.M., being about 5 Miles

from the Land, we Tack'd and stood off South-East and East until 4 A.M.,

at which time we Tack'd and stood in, being then about 9 or 10 Leagues

from the land. At 8, it fell little wind, and soon after Calm. At Noon we

were by Observation in the Latitude of 35 degrees 38 minutes and about 6

Leagues from the land, Mount Dromedary bearing South 37 degrees West,

distant 17 Leagues, and the Pidgeon house North 40 degrees West; in this

situation had 74 fathoms.

Tuesday, 24th. In the P.M. had Variable light Airs and Calms until 6

o'Clock, at which time a breeze sprung up at North by West; at this time

we had 70 fathoms Water, being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the land, the

Pidgeon house bearing North 40 degrees West, Mount Dromedary South 30

degrees West, and the Northermost land in sight North 19 degrees East.

Stood to the North-East until Noon, having a Gentle breeze at North-West,

at which time we Tack'd and stood to the Westward, being then, by

observation, in the Latitude of 35 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude

208 degrees 51 minutes West. A point of land which I named Cape St.

George, we having discovered it on that Saint's day, bore West, distant

19 Miles, and the Pidgeon house South 7 degrees West, the Latitude and

Longitude of which I found to be 35 degrees 19 minutes South and 209

degrees 42 minutes West. In the morning we found the Variation to be, by

the Amplitude, 7 degrees 50 minutes East, by several Azimuths 7 degrees

54 minutes East.

[Off Jervis Bay, New South Wales.]

Wednesday, 25th. In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-West until 3

o'Clock, at which time it came to West, and we Tack'd and stood to the

Northward. At 5 o'Clock, being about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, the

Pidgeon house bearing West-South-West, distant 9 Leagues, sounded and had

86 fathoms. At 8, being very squally, with lightning, we close reef'd the

Topsails and brought too, being then in 120 fathoms. At 3 A.M. made sail

again to the Northward, having the advantage of a fresh Gale at

South-West. At Noon we were about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in the

Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees 36 minutes

West. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon is North by East 49

Miles. In the Course of this day's run we saw the Smoke of fire in

several places near the Sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the Northward of

Cape St. George the Shore seems to form a bay,* (* Jervis Bay, a very

fine port, but little use has been made of it up to the present time.)

which appear'd to be shelter'd from the North-East winds; but as we had

the wind it was not in my power to look into it, and the appearance was

not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it. The

North point of this bay, on account of its Figure, I nam'd Long Nose.

Latitude 45 degrees 4 minutes South, 8 Leagues to the Northward of this,

is a point which I call'd Red Point; some part of the Land about it

appeared of that Colour (Latitude 34 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude

208 degrees 49 minutes West). A little way inland to the North-West of

this point is a round hill, the top of which look'd like the Crown of a

Hatt.

Thursday, 26th. Clear, serene weather. In the P.M. had a light breeze at

North-North-West until 5, at which time it fell Calm, we being then about

3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in 48 fathoms. Variation by Azimuth 8

degrees 48 minutes East, the extreams of the land from North-East by

North to South-West by South. Saw several smokes along shore before dark,

and 2 or 3 times a fire. In the Night we lay becalm'd, driving in before

the Sea, until one o'Clock A.M., at which time we got a breeze from the

land, with which we steer'd North-East, being then in 38 fathoms water.

At Noon it fell little Wind, and veer'd to North-East by North, we being

then in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees

27 minutes West, and about 5 Leagues from the land, which extended from

South 37 degrees West to North 1/2 East. In this Latitude are some White

Clifts, which rise perpendicular from the Sea to a moderate height.

Friday, 27th. Var'ble light Airs between the North-East and North-West,

clear pleasant weather. In the P.M. stood off Shore until 2, then Tackt

and Stood in till 6, at which time we tack'd and stood off, being then in

54 fathoms and about 4 or 5 miles from the land, the Extreams of which

bore from South, 28 degrees West to North 25 degrees 30 minutes East. At

12 we tack'd and stood in until 4 A.M., then made a Trip off until day

light, after which we stood in for the land; in all this time we lost

ground, owing a good deal to the Variableness of the winds, for at Noon

we were by Observation in the Latitude of 34 degrees 21 minutes South,

Red Point bearing South 27 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues. In this

Situation we were about 4 or 5 Miles from the land, which extended from

South 19 degrees 30 minutes West to North 29 degrees East.

Saturday, 28th. In the P.M. hoisted out the Pinnace and Yawl in order to

attempt a landing, but the Pinnace took in the Water so fast that she was

obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leakes. At this time we saw

several people a shore, 4 of whom where carrying a small Boat or Canoe,

which we imagin'd they were going to put in to the Water in order to Come

off to us; but in this we were mistaken. Being now not above 2 Miles from

the Shore Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and myself put off in the Yawl,

and pull'd in for the land to a place where we saw 4 or 5 of the Natives,

who took to the Woods as we approached the Shore; which disappointed us

in the expectation we had of getting a near View of them, if not to speak

to them. But our disappointment was heightened when we found that we no

where could effect a landing by reason of the great Surf which beat

everywhere upon the shore. We saw haul'd up upon the beach 3 or 4 small

Canoes, which to us appeared not much unlike the Small ones of New

Zeland. In the wood were several Trees of the Palm kind, and no under

wood; and this was all we were able to observe from the boat, after which

we return'd to the Ship about 5 in the evening.* (* The place where Cook

attempted to land is near Bulli, a place where there is now considerable

export of coal. A large coal port, Wollongong, lies a little to the

southward.) At this time it fell Calm, and we were not above a Mile and a

half from the Shore, in 11 fathoms, and within some breakers that lay to

the Southward of us; but luckily a light breeze came off from the Land,

which carried us out of danger, and with which we stood to the Northward.

At daylight in the morning we discover'd a Bay,* (* Botany Bay.) which

appeared to be tollerably well shelter'd from all winds, into which I

resolved to go with the Ship, and with this View sent the Master in the

Pinnace to sound the Entrance, while we keept turning up with the Ship,

having the wind right out. At noon the Entrance bore North-North-West,

distance 1 Mile.

[At Anchor, Botany Bay, New South Wales.]

Sunday, 29th. In the P.M. wind Southerly and Clear weather, with which we

stood into the bay and Anchored under the South shore about 2 miles

within the Entrance in 5 fathoms, the South point bearing South-East and

the North point East. Saw, as we came in, on both points of the bay,

several of the Natives and a few hutts; Men, Women, and Children on the

South Shore abreast of the Ship, to which place I went in the Boats in

hopes of speaking with them, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and

Tupia. As we approached the Shore they all made off, except 2 Men, who

seem'd resolved to oppose our landing. As soon as I saw this I order'd

the boats to lay upon their Oars, in order to speak to them; but this was

to little purpose, for neither us nor Tupia could understand one word

they said. We then threw them some nails, beads, etc., a shore, which

they took up, and seem'd not ill pleased with, in so much that I thought

that they beckon'd to us to come ashore; but in this we were mistaken,

for as soon as we put the boat in they again came to oppose us, upon

which I fir'd a musquet between the 2, which had no other Effect than to

make them retire back, where bundles of their darts lay, and one of them

took up a stone and threw at us, which caused my firing a Second Musquet,

load with small Shott; and altho' some of the shott struck the man, yet

it had no other effect than making him lay hold on a Target. Immediately

after this we landed, which we had no sooner done than they throw'd 2

darts at us; this obliged me to fire a third shott, soon after which they

both made off, but not in such haste but what we might have taken one;

but Mr. Banks being of Opinion that the darts were poisoned, made me

cautious how I advanced into the Woods. We found here a few small hutts

made of the Bark of Trees, in one of which were 4 or 5 Small Children,

with whom we left some strings of beads, etc. A quantity of Darts lay

about the Hutts; these we took away with us. 3 Canoes lay upon the beach,

the worst I think I ever saw; they were about 12 or 14 feet long, made of

one piece of the Bark of a Tree, drawn or tied up at each end, and the

middle keept open by means of pieces of Stick by way of Thwarts. After

searching for fresh water without success, except a little in a Small

hole dug in the Sand, we embarqued, and went over to the North point of

the bay, where in coming in we saw several people; but when we landed now

there were nobody to be seen. We found here some fresh Water, which came

trinkling down and stood in pools among the rocks; but as this was

troublesome to come at I sent a party of men ashore in the morning to the

place where we first landed to dig holes in the sand, by which means and

a Small stream they found fresh Water sufficient to Water the Ship. The

String of Beads, etc., we had left with the Children last night were

found laying in the Hutts this morning; probably the Natives were afraid

to take them away. After breakfast we sent some Empty Casks a shore and a

party of Men to cut wood, and I went myself in the Pinnace to sound and

explore the Bay, in the doing of which I saw some of the Natives; but

they all fled at my Approach. I landed in 2 places, one of which the

people had but just left, as there were small fires and fresh Muscles

broiling upon them; here likewise lay Vast heaps of the largest Oyster

Shells I ever saw.

Monday, 30th. As Soon as the Wooders and Waterers were come on board to

Dinner 10 or 12 of the Natives came to the watering place, and took away

their Canoes that lay there, but did not offer to touch any one of our

Casks that had been left ashore; and in the afternoon 16 or 18 of them

came boldly up to within 100 yards of our people at the watering place,

and there made a stand. Mr. Hicks, who was the Officer ashore, did all in

his power to intice them to him by offering them presents; but it was to

no purpose, all they seem'd to want was for us to be gone. After staying

a Short time they went away. They were all Arm'd with Darts and wooden

Swords; the darts have each 4 prongs, and pointed with fish bones. Those

we have seen seem to be intended more for striking fish than offensive

Weapons; neither are they poisoned, as we at first thought. After I had

return'd from sounding the Bay I went over to a Cove on the North side of

the Bay, where, in 3 or 4 Hauls with the Sean, we caught about 300 pounds

weight of Fish, which I caused to be equally divided among the Ship's

Company. In the A.M. I went in the Pinnace to sound and explore the North

side of the bay, where I neither met with inhabitants or anything

remarkable. Mr. Green took the Sun's Meridian Altitude a little within

the South Entrance of the Bay, which gave the Latitude 34 degrees 0

minutes South.

[May 1770.]

Tuesday, May 1st. Gentle breezes, Northerly. In the P.M. 10 of the

Natives again visited the Watering place. I, being on board at this time,

went immediately ashore, but before I got there they were going away. I

follow'd them alone and unarm'd some distance along shore, but they would

not stop until they got farther off than I choose to trust myself. These

were armed in the same manner as those that came Yesterday. In the

evening I sent some hands to haul the Saine, but they caught but a very

few fish. A little after sunrise I found the Variation to be 11 degrees 3

minutes East. Last night Forby Sutherland, Seaman, departed this Life,

and in the A.M. his body Was buried ashore at the watering place, which

occasioned my calling the south point of this bay after his name. This

morning a party of us went ashore to some Hutts, not far from the

Watering place, where some of the Natives are daily seen; here we left

several articles, such as Cloth, Looking Glasses, Coombs, Beads, Nails,

etc.; after this we made an Excursion into the Country, which we found

diversified with Woods, Lawns, and Marshes. The woods are free from

underwood of every kind, and the trees are at such a distance from one

another that the whole Country, or at least great part of it, might be

Cultivated without being obliged to cut down a single tree. We found the

Soil every where, except in the Marshes, to be a light white sand, and

produceth a quantity of good Grass, which grows in little Tufts about as

big as one can hold in one's hand, and pretty close to one another; in

this manner the Surface of the Ground is Coated. In the woods between the

Trees Dr. Solander had a bare sight of a Small Animal something like a

Rabbit, and we found the Dung of an Animal* (* This was the kangaroo.)

which must feed upon Grass, and which, we judge, could not be less than a

Deer; we also saw the Track of a Dog, or some such like Animal. We met

with some Hutts and places where the Natives had been, and at our first

setting out one of them was seen; the others, I suppose, had fled upon

our Approach. I saw some Trees that had been cut down by the Natives with

some sort of a Blunt instrument, and several Trees that were barqued, the

bark of which had been cut by the same instrument; in many of the Trees,

especially the Palms, were cut steps of about 3 or 4 feet asunder for the

conveniency of Climbing them. We found 2 Sorts of Gum, one sort of which

is like Gum Dragon, and is the same, I suppose, Tasman took for Gum lac;

it is extracted from the largest tree in the Woods.

Wednesday, 2nd. Between 3 and 4 in the P.M. we return'd out of the

Country, and after Dinner went ashore to the watering place, where we had

not been long before 17 or 18 of the Natives appeared in sight. In the

morning I had sent Mr. Gore, with a boat, up to the head of the Bay to

drudge for Oysters; in his return to the Ship he and another person came

by land, and met with these people, who followed him at the Distance of

10 or 20 Yards. Whenever Mr. Gore made a stand and faced them they stood

also, and notwithstanding they were all Arm'd, they never offer'd to

Attack him; but after he had parted from them, and they were met by Dr.

Monkhouse and one or 2 more, who, upon making a Sham retreat, they

throw'd 3 darts after them, after which they began to retire. Dr.

Solander, I, and Tupia made all the haste we could after them, but could

not, either by words or Actions, prevail upon them to come near us, Mr.

Gore saw some up the Bay, who by signs invited him ashore, which he

prudently declined. In the A.M. had the wind in the South-East with rain,

which prevented me from making an Excursion up the head of the bay as I

intended.

Thursday, 3rd. Winds at South-East, a Gentle breeze and fair weather. In

the P.M. I made a little excursion along the Sea Coast to the Southward,

accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. At our first entering the

woods we saw 3 of the Natives, who made off as soon as they saw us; more

of them were seen by others of our people, who likewise made off as soon

as they found they were discover'd. In the A.M. I went in the Pinnace to

the head of the bay, accompanied by Drs. Solander and Monkhouse, in order

to Examine the Country, and to try to form some Connections with the

Natives. In our way thither we met with 10 or 12 of them fishing, each in

a Small Canoe, who retir'd into Shoald water upon our approach. Others

again we saw at the first place we landed at, who took to their Canoes,

and fled before we came near them; after this we took Water, and went

almost to the head of the inlet, were we landed and Travel'd some

distance in land. We found the face of the Country much the same as I

have before described, but the land much richer for instead of sand I

found in many places a deep black soil, which we thought was Capable of

producing any kind of grain. At present it produceth, besides Timber, as

fine Meadow as ever was seen; however, we found it not all like this,

some few places were very rocky, but this, I believe, to be uncommon. The

stone is sandy, and very proper for building, etc. After we had

sufficiently examin'd this part we return'd to the Boat, and seeing some

Smoke and Canoes at another part we went thither, in hopes of meeting

with the people, but they made off as we approached. There were 6 Canoes

and 6 small fires near the Shore, and Muscles roasting upon them, and a

few Oysters laying near; from this we conjectured that there had been

just 6 people, who had been out each in his Canoe picking up the Shell

fish, and come a Shore to eat them, where each had made his fire to dress

them by. We tasted of their Cheer, and left them in return Strings of

beads, etc. The day being now far spent, we set out on our return to the

Ship.

Friday, 4th. Winds northerly, serene weather. Upon my return to the Ship

in the evening I found that none of the Natives had Appear'd near the

Watering place, but about 20 of them had been fishing in their Canoes at

no great distance from us. In the A.M., as the Wind would not permit us

to sail, I sent out some parties into the Country to try to form some

Connections with the Natives. One of the Midshipmen met with a very old

man and Woman and 2 Small Children; they were Close to the Water side,

where several more were in their Canoes gathering of Shell fish, and he,

being alone, was afraid to make any stay with the 2 old People least he

should be discovr'd by those in the Canoes. He gave them a bird he had

Shott, which they would not Touch; neither did they speak one word, but

seem'd to be much frightned. They were quite Naked; even the Woman had

nothing to cover her nudities. Dr. Monkhouse and another Man being in the

Woods, not far from the watering place, discover'd 6 more of the Natives,

who at first seem'd to wait his coming; but as he was going up to them he

had a dart thrown at him out of a Tree, which narrowly escaped him. As

soon as the fellow had thrown the dart he descended the Tree and made

off, and with him all the rest, and these were all that were met with in

the Course of this day.

Saturday, 5th. In the P.M. I went with a party of Men over to the North

Shore, and while some hands were hauling the Sean, a party of us made an

Excursion of 3 or 4 Miles into the Country, or rather along the Sea

Coast. We met with nothing remarkable; great part of the Country for some

distance inland from the Sea Coast is mostly a barren heath, diversified

with Marshes and Morasses. Upon our return to the Boat we found they had

caught a great number of small fish, which the sailors call leather

Jackets on account of their having a very thick skin; they are known in

the West Indies. I had sent the Yawl in the morning to fish for Sting

rays, who returned in the Evening with upwards of four hundred weight;

one single one weigh'd 240 pounds Exclusive of the entrails. In the A.M.,

as the wind Continued Northerly, I sent the Yawl again a fishing, and I

went with a party of Men into the Country, but met with nothing

extraordinary.

[Description of Botany Bay, New South Wales.]

Sunday, 6th. In the evening the Yawl return'd from fishing, having Caught

2 Sting rays weighing near 600 pounds. The great quantity of plants Mr.

Banks and Dr. Solander found in this place occasioned my giving it the

Name of Botany Bay.* (* The Bay was at first called Stingray Bay. The

plan of it at the Admiralty is called by this name, and none of the logs

know Botany Bay. It seems probable that Cook finally settled on the name

after the ship left, and when Banks had had time to examine his

collections. A monument was erected in 1870 near the spot, on the

southern side, where Cook first landed. Botany Bay was intended to be the

site where the first settlement of convicts should be made, but on the

arrival of Captain Phillip, on January 18th, 1788, he found it so

unsuited for the number of his colony that he started in a boat to

examine Broken Bay. On his way he went into Port Jackson, and immediately

decided on settling there. On the 25th and 26th the ships went round, and

Sydney was founded.) It is situated in the Latitude of 34 degrees 0

minutes South, Longitude 208 degrees 37 minutes West. It is capacious,

safe, and Commodious; it may be known by the land on the Sea Coast, which

is of a pretty even and moderate height, Rather higher than it is inland,

with steep rocky Clifts next the Sea, and looks like a long Island lying

close under the Shore. The Entrance of the Bay lies about the Middle of

this land. In coming from the Southward it is discover'd before you are

abreast of it, which you cannot do in coming from the Northward; the

entrance is little more than a Quarter of a Mile broad, and lies in

West-North-West. To sail into it keep the South shore on board until

within a small bare Island, which lies close under the North Shore. Being

within that Island the deepest of Water is on that side, 7, 6 and 5

fathoms a good way up; there is Shoald Water a good way off from the

South Shore--from the inner South Point quite to the head of the harbour;

but over towards the North and North-West Shore is a Channell of 12 or 14

feet at low Water, 3 or 4 Leagues up, to a place where there is 3 or 4

fathoms; but there I found very little fresh Water. We Anchor'd near the

South Shore about a Mile within the Entrance for the Conveniency of

Sailing with a Southerly wind and the getting of Fresh Water; but I

afterwards found a very fine stream of fresh Water on the North shore in

the first sandy Cove within the Island, before which the Ship might lay

almost land locked, and wood for fuel may be got everywhere. Although

wood is here in great plenty, yet there is very little Variety; the

bigest trees are as large or larger than our Oaks in England, and grows a

good deal like them, and Yields a reddish Gum; the wood itself is heavy,

hard, and black like Lignum Vitae. Another sort that grows tall and

Strait something like Pines--the wood of this is hard and Ponderous, and

something of the Nature of America live Oak. These 2 are all the Timber

trees I met with; there are a few sorts of Shrubs and several Palm Trees

and Mangroves about the Head of the Harbour. The Country is woody, low,

and flat as far in as we could see, and I believe that the Soil is in

general sandy. In the Wood are a variety of very beautiful birds, such as

Cocatoos, Lorryquets, Parrots, etc., and crows Exactly like those we have

in England. Water fowl is no less plenty about the head of the Harbour,

where there is large flats of sand and Mud, on which they seek their

food; the most of these were unknown to us, one sort especially, which

was black and white, and as large as a Goose, but most like a Pelican.*

(* Most probably the Black and White or Semipalmated Goose, now

exterminated in these parts.) On the sand and Mud banks are Oysters,

Muscles, Cockles, etc., which I believe are the Chief support of the

inhabitants, who go into Shoald Water with their little Canoes and peck

them out of the sand and Mud with their hands, and sometimes roast and

Eat them in the Canoe, having often a fire for that purpose, as I

suppose, for I know no other it can be for. The Natives do not appear to

be numerous, neither do they seem to live in large bodies, but dispers'd

in small parties along by the Water side. Those I saw were about as tall

as Europeans, of a very dark brown Colour, but not black, nor had they

woolly, frizled hair, but black and lank like ours. No sort of Cloathing

or Ornaments were ever seen by any of us upon any one of them, or in or

about any of their Hutts; from which I conclude that they never wear any.

Some that we saw had their faces and bodies painted with a sort of White

Paint or Pigment. Altho' I have said that shell fish is their Chief

support, yet they catch other sorts of fish, some of which we found

roasting on the fire the first time we landed; some of these they strike

with Gigs,* (* A fishing implement like a trident.) and others they catch

with hook and line; we have seen them strike fish with gigs, and hooks

and lines are found in their Hutts. Sting rays, I believe, they do not

eat, because I never saw the least remains of one near any of their Hutts

or fire places. However, we could know but very little of their Customs,

as we never were able to form any Connections with them; they had not so

much as touch'd the things we had left in their Hutts on purpose for them

to take away. During our stay in this Harbour I caused the English

Colours to be display'd ashore every day, and an inscription to be cut

out upon one of the Trees near the Watering place, setting forth the

Ship's Name, Date, etc. [Off Port Jackson, New South Wales.]Having seen

everything this place afforded, we, at daylight in the morning, weigh'd

with a light breeze at North-West, and put to Sea, and the wind soon

after coming to the Southward we steer'd along shore North-North-East,

and at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33 degrees 50

minutes South, about 2 or 3 Miles from the Land, and abreast of a Bay,

wherein there appear'd to be safe Anchorage, which I called Port

Jackson.* (* Cook having completed his water at Botany Bay, and having

many hundreds of miles of coast before him, did not examine Port Jackson,

the magnificent harbour in which Sydney, the capital of New South Wales,

now lies. His chart gives the shape of what he could see very accurately,

but the main arm of the harbour is hidden from the sea. He named the bay

after Mr. (afterwards Sir George) Jackson, one of the Secretaries of the

Admiralty. This fact is recorded on a tablet in the Bishop Stortford

Church to the memory of Sir George Duckett, which name Sir George had

assumed in later years. This interesting evidence was brought to light by

Sir Alfred Stephen, Lieutenant-Governor of New South Wales, and puts an

end to the legend which was long current, that Port Jackson was named

after a sailor who first saw it. There was, moreover, no person of the

name of Jackson on board.) It lies 3 leagues to the Northward of Botany

Bay. I had almost forgot to mention that it is high water in this Bay at

the full and change of the Moon about 8 o'Clock, and rises and falls upon

a Perpendicular about 4 or 5 feet.

Monday, 7th. Little wind, Southerly, and Serene pleasant Weather. In the

P.M. found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 8 degrees East; at

sunset the Northermost land in sight bore North 26 degrees East; and some

broken land that appear'd to form a bay bore North 40 degrees West,

distant 4 Leagues. This Bay I named Broken bay,* (* The Hawkesbury River,

the largest on the east coast of Australia, runs into Broken Bay.)

Latitude 33 degrees 36 minutes South. We steer'd along shore

North-North-East all night at the distance of about 3 Leagues from the

land, having from 32 to 36 fathoms, hard sandy bottom. A little after sun

rise I took several Azimuths with 4 Needles belonging to the Azimuth

Compass, the mean result of which gave the Variation of 7 degrees 56

minutes East. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33

degrees 22 minutes South, and about 3 Leagues from the land, the

Northermost part of which in sight bore North 19 degrees East. Some

pretty high land which projected out in 3 bluff Points, and occasioned my

calling it Cape 3 Points (Latitude 33 degrees 33 minutes South), bore

South-West, distant 5 Leagues; Longitude made from Botany Bay 0 degrees

19 minutes East.

Tuesday, 8th. Variable Light Airs and Clear weather. In the P.M. saw some

smooks upon the Shore, and in the Evening found the Variation to be 8

degrees 25 minutes East; at this time we were about 2 or 3 Miles from the

land, and had 28 fathoms Water. Our situation at Noon was nearly the same

as Yesterday, having advanced not one Step to the Northward.

Wednesday, 9th. Winds northerly; most part a fresh breeze, with which we

stood off Shore until 12 at Night. At the distance of 5 Leagues from the

land had 70 fathoms, at the distance of 6 Leagues 80 fathoms, which is

the Extent of the Soundings, for at the Distance of 10 Leagues off we had

no ground with 150 fathoms. Stood in Shore until 8 o'Clock A.M., and

hardly fetched Cape Three Points; having a little wind at North-West by

North, we tack'd, and stood off until Noon, at which Time we Tack'd with

the wind at North-North-East, being then in the Latitude of 33 degrees 37

minutes South, Cape Three Points bearing North West by West, distance 4

Leagues.

Thursday, 10th. In the P.M., had the wind at North-East by North, with

which we stood in Shore until near 4 o'Clock, when we Tack'd in 23

fathoms Water, being about a Mile from the land, and as much to the

Southward of Cape 3 Points. In the night the wind veer'd to North-West

and West, and in the morning to South-West. Having the advantage of a

light Moon, we made the best of our way along shore to the Northward. At

Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 32 degrees 53 minutes

South, and Longitude 208 degrees 0 minutes West, and about 2 Leagues from

the land, which extended from North 41 degrees East to South 41 degrees

West. A small round rock or Island,* (* Nobby Head, at the entrance of

Newcastle Harbour, formed by the Hunter River. Newcastle is the great

coal port of New South Wales. It has a population of 20,000, and exports

1,500,000 tons of coal in the year.) laying close under the land, bore

South 82 degrees West, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. At sunrise in the Morning

found the Variation to be 8 degrees East. In the Latitude of 33 degrees 2

minutes South, a little way inland, is a remarkable hill, that is shaped

like the Crown of a Hatt, which we past about 9 o'Clock in the forenoon.

[Off Cape Hawke, New South Wales.]

Friday, 11th. Winds Southerly in the day, and in the night Westerly; a

Gentle breeze and Clear weather. At 4 P.M. past, at the distance of one

Mile, a low rocky point which I named Point Stephens (Latitude 32 degrees

45 minutes); on the North side of this point is an inlet which I called

Port Stephens* (* Called after Mr. Stephens, one of the Secretaries to

the Admiralty. It is a large and fine harbour.) (Latitude 32 degrees 40

minutes; Longitude 207 degrees 51 minutes), that appear'd to me from the

Masthead to be shelter'd from all Winds. At the Entrance lay 3 Small

Islands, 2 of which are of a Tolerable height, and on the Main, near the

shore, are some high round hills that make at a distance like Islands. In

passing this bay at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the Shore our

soundings were from 33 to 27 fathoms; from which I conjectured that there

must be a sufficient depth of Water for Shipping in the bay. We saw

several smokes a little way in the Country upon the flat land; by this I

did suppose that there were Lagoons which afforded subsistance for the

Natives, such as shell-fish, etc., for we as yet know nothing else they

have to live upon. At 1/2 past 5, the Northermost land in sight bore

North 36 degrees East, and Point Stephens South-West, distant 4 Leagues,

at which time we took in our Steerings,* (* Studding sails.) and run

under an Easey sail all night until 4 A.M., when we made all sail; our

soundings in the night were from 48 to 62 fathoms, at the distance of

between 3 and 4 Leagues from the land. At 8 we were abreast of a high

point of Land, which made in 2 Hillocks; this point I called Cape Hawke*

(* After Admiral Sir Edward Hawke, First Lord of the Admiralty.)

(Latitude 32 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 207 degrees 30 minutes

West). It bore from us at this time West distant 8 Miles, and the same

time the Northermost land in sight bore North 6 degrees East, and

appear'd high and like an Island. At Noon this land bore North 8 degrees

East, the Northermost land in sight North 13 degrees East, and Cape Hawke

South 37 degrees West. Latitude in per Observation 32 degrees 2 minutes

South, which was 12 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log,

which I do suppose to be owing to a Current setting that way. Course and

distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon was first North-East by East, 27

Miles, then North 10 degrees East, 37 Miles; Longitude in 207 degrees 20

minutes West; Variation per morning Amplitude and Azimuth 9 degrees 10

minutes East.

Saturday, 12th. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze in the P.M. As we run

along Shore we saw several smokes a little way in land from the Sea, and

one upon the Top of a hill, which was the first we have seen upon

elevated ground since we have been upon the Coast. At sunset we were in

23 fathoms, and about a League and a half from the land, the Northermost

part of which we had in sight bore North 13 degrees East; and 3

remarkable large high hills lying Contigious to each other, and not far

from the shore, bore North-North-West. As these Hills bore some

resemblance to each other we called them the 3 Brothers. We steer'd

North-East by North all Night, having from 27 to 67 fathoms, from 2 to 5

and 6 Leagues from the Land, and at day light we steer'd North for the

Northermost land we had in sight. At noon we were 4 Leagues from the

Land, and by observation in the Latitude of 31 degrees 18 minutes South,

which was 15 miles to the Southward of that given by the Log. Our Course

and distance made good since Yesterday noon was North 24 degrees East, 48

miles. Longitude 206 degrees 58 minutes West; several smokes seen a

little way in land.

Sunday, 13th. In the P.M. stood in shore with the Wind at North-East

until 6, at which time we Tack'd, being about 3 or 4 miles from the land,

and in 24 fathoms. Stood off shore with a fresh breeze at North and

North-North-West until midnight, then Tack'd, being in 118 fathoms and 8

Leagues from the Land. At 3 a.m. the wind veer'd to the Westward, and we

Tack'd and stood to the Northward. At noon we were by Observation in the

Latitude of 30 degrees 43 minutes South, and Longitude 206 degrees 45

minutes West, and about 3 or 4 Leagues from the Land, the Northermost

part of which bore from us North 13 degrees West; and a point or head

land, on which were fires that Caused a great Quantity of smoke, which

occasioned my giving it the name of Smokey Cape, bore South-West, distant

4 Leagues; it is moderately high land. Over the pitch of the point is a

round hillock; within it 2 others, much higher and larger, and within

them very low land (Latitude 30 degrees 51 minutes, Longitude 206 degrees

5 minutes West). Besides the smoke seen upon this Cape we saw more in

several places along the Coast. The observed Latitude was only 5 Miles to

the Southward of the Log.

Monday, 14th. At the P.M. it fell Calm, and continued so about an hour,

when a breeze sprung up at North-East, with which we stood in shore until

6 o'Clock, when, being in 30 fathoms and 3 or 4 Miles from the land, we

Tack'd, having the wind at North-North-West. At this time Smoky Cape bore

South 3/4 degrees West, distant about 5 Leagues, and the Northermost land

in sight North 1/4 degrees East. At 8 we made a Trip in shore for an

hour; after this the wind came off Shore, with which we stood along shore

to the Northward, having from 30 to 21 fathoms, at the distance of 4 or 5

Miles from the Land. At 5 A.M. the Wind veer'd to North, and blow'd a

fresh breeze, attended with Squalls and dark cloudy weather. At 8 it

began to Thunder and Rain, which lasted about an Hour, and then fell

Calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and found 86 fathoms, being

about 4 or 5 Leagues from the Land; after this we got the wind Southerly,

a fresh breeze and fair weather, and we Steer'd North by West for the

Northermost land we had in sight. At noon we were about 4 Leagues from

the land, and by observation in the Latitude of 30 degrees 22 minutes

South, which was 9 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log.

Longitude in 206 degrees 39 minutes West, and Course and distance made

good since Yesterday Noon North 16 degrees East, 22 miles; some Tolerable

high land near the Shore bore West. As I have not mentioned the Aspect of

the Country since we left Botany Bay, I shall now describe it as it hath

at different times appear'd to us. As we have advanced to the Northward

the land hath increased in height, in so much that in this Latitude it

may be called a hilly Country; but between this and Botany Bay it is

diversified with an agreeable variety of Hills, Ridges, and Valleys, and

large plains all Cloathed with wood, which to all appearance is the same

as I have before mentioned, as we could discover no Visible alteration in

the Soil. Near the shore the land is in general low and Sandy, except the

points which are rocky, and over many of them are pretty high hills,

which at first rising out of the Water appear like a Island.

Tuesday, 15th. Fresh Gales at South-West, West-South-West, and

South-South-West. In the P.M. had some heavy Squalls, attended with rain

and hail, which obliged us to close reef our Topsails. Between 2 and 4 we

had some small rocky Islands* (* The Solitary Islands.) between us and

the land; the Southermost lies in the Latitude of 30 degrees 10 minutes,

the Northermost in 29 degrees 58 minutes, and about 2 Leagues or more

from the land; we sounded, and had 33 fathoms about 12 Miles without this

last island. At 8 we brought too until 10, at which time we made sail

under our Topsails. Having the Advantage of the Moon we steer'd along

shore North and North by East, keeping at the distance of about 3 Leagues

from the land having from 30 to 25 fathoms. As soon as it was daylight we

made all the sail we could, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale and fair

weather.* (* During the night the entrance of the Clarence River, now the

outlet for the produce of a large and rich agricultural district, was

passed, and in the morning that of the Richmond River, which serves a

similar purpose.) At 9, being about a League from the Land, we saw upon

it people and Smoke in Several places. At noon we were by observation in

the Latitude of 28 degrees 39 minutes South, and Longitude 206 degrees 27

minutes West; Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon North 6

degrees 45 minutes East, 104 Miles. A Tolerable high point of land bore

North-West by West, distant 3 Miles; this point I named Cape Byron* (*

Captain John Byron was one of Cook's predecessors in exploration in the

Pacific, having sailed round the World in H.M.S. Dolphin, in company with

the Tamar, in 1764 to 1766.) (Latitude 28 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds

South, Longitude 206 degrees 30 minutes West). It may be known by a

remarkable sharp peaked Mountain lying in land North-West by West from

it. From this point the land Trends North 13 degrees West. Inland it is

pretty high and hilly, but near the Shore it is low; to the Southward of

the Point the land is low, and Tolerable level.

[Off Point Danger, New South Wales.]

Wednesday, 16th. Winds Southerly, a fresh Gale, with which we steer'd

North along shore until sunset, at which time we discover'd breakers

ahead, and on our Larboard bow, being at this time in 20 fathoms, and

about 5 miles from the land. Haul'd off East until 8, at which time we

had run 8 Miles, and had increased our Depth of Water to 44 fathoms. We

then brought too with her head to the Eastward, and lay on this Tack

until 10 o'Clock, when, having increased our Soundings to 78 fathoms, we

wore and lay with her head in shore until 5 o'Clock a.m., when we made

Sail. At daylight we were surprized by finding ourselves farther to the

Southward than we were in the evening, and yet it had blown strong all

night Southerly. We now saw the breakers again within us, which we passed

at the distance of about 1 League; they lay in the Latitude of 28 degrees

8 minutes South, and stretch off East 2 Leagues from a point under which

is a small Island; their situation may always be found by the peaked

mountain before mentioned, which bears South-West by West from them, and

on their account I have named it Mount Warning. It lies 7 or 8 Leagues in

land in the Latitude of 28 degrees 22 minutes South. The land is high and

hilly about it, but it is Conspicuous enough to be distinguished from

everything else. The point off which these shoals lay I have named Point

Danger;* (* Point Danger is the boundary point on the coast between New

South Wales and Queensland.) to the Northward of it the land, which is

low, Trends North-West by North; but we soon found that it did not keep

that direction long before it turn'd again to the Northward. At Noon we

were about 2 Leagues from the land, and by observation in the Latitude of

27 degrees 46 minutes, which was 17 Miles to the Southward of the Log;

Longitude 206 degrees 26 minutes West. Mount Warning bore South 20

degrees West, distant 14 Leagues; the Northermost land in sight bore

North. Our Course and distance made good since yesterday North 1 degree

45 minutes West, 53 miles.

[Off Moreton Bay, Queensland.]

Thursday, 17th. Winds Southerly, mostly a fresh breeze, with which in the

P.M. we steer'd along shore North 3/4 East, at the distance of about 2

Leagues off. Between 4 and 5 we discover'd breakers on our Larboard bow;

our Depth of Water at this time was 37 fathoms. At sunset the Northermost

land in sight bore North by West, the breakers North-West by West,

distant 4 Miles, and the Northermost land set at Noon, which form'd a

Point, I named Point Lookout, bore West, distant 5 or 6 Miles (Latitude

27 degrees 6 minutes).* (* There is some mistake in this latitude. It

should be 27 degrees 26 minutes.) On the North side of this point the

shore forms a wide open bay, which I have named Morton's Bay,* (* James,

Earl of Morton, was President of the Royal Society in 1764, and one of

the Commissioners of Longitude.) in the Bottom of which the land is so

low that I could but just see it from the Topmast head. The breakers I

have just mentioned lies about 3 or 4 Miles from Point Lookout; at this

time we had a great Sea from the Southward, which broke prodigious high

upon them. Stood on North-North-East until 8, when, being past the

breakers, and having Deepned our water to 52 fathoms, we brought too

until 12 o'Clock, then made sail to the North-North-East. At 4 A.M. we

sounded, and had 135 fathoms. At daylight I found that we had in the

night got much farther to the Northward and from the Shore than I

expected from the Course we steer'd, for we were at least 6 or 7 Leagues

off, and therefore hauled in North-West by West, having the Advantage of

a Fresh Gale at South-South-West. The Northermost land seen last night

bore from us at this time South-South-West, distant 6 Leagues. This land

I named Cape Morton, it being the North point of the Bay of the same Name

(Latitude 26 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 28 minutes).

From Cape Morton the Land Trends away West, further than we could see,

for there is a small space where we could see no land; some on board

where of opinion that there is a River there because the Sea looked paler

than usual. Upon sounding we found 34 fathoms fine white sandy bottom,

which alone is Sufficient change, the apparent Colour of Sea Water,

without the Assistance of Rivers. The land need only to be low here, as

it is in a Thousand other places upon the Coast, to have made it

impossible for us to have seen it at the distance we were off. Be this as

it may, it was a point that could not be clear'd up as we had the wind;

but should any one be desirous of doing it that may come after me, this

place may always be found by 3 Hills which lay to the Northward of it in

the Latitude of 26 degrees 53 minutes South. These hills lay but a little

way inland, and not far from Each other; they are very remarkable on

account of their Singular form of Elivation, which very much resembles

Glass Houses,* (* The Glass houses form a well-known sea mark on entering

Moreton Bay, as the name is now written. Brisbane, the capital of

Queensland, stands on the river of the same name, which falls into

Moreton Bay.) which occasioned my giving them that Name. The Northermost

of the 3 is the highest and largest. There are likewise several other

peaked hills inland to the Northward of these, but they are not near so

remarkable. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 26 degrees

28 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of the Log; a

Circumstance that hath not hapned since we have been upon the Coast

before. Our Course and distance run since Yesterday noon was North by

West 80 Miles, which brought us into the Longitude of 206 degrees 46

minutes. At this time we were about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, and in

24 fathoms Water; a low bluff point, which was the Southern point of an

open Sandy bay,* (* Laguna Bay. The point is called Low Bluff.) bore

North 52 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues, and the Northermost point of

land in sight bore North 1/4 East. Several Smokes seen to-day, and some

pretty far inland.

Friday, 18th. In steering along shore at the distance of 2 Leagues off

our Soundings was from 24 to 32 fathoms Sandy bottom. At 6 P.M. the North

point set at Noon bore North 1/4 West; distant 4 Leagues; at 10 it bore

North-West by West 1/2 West, and as we had seen no land to the Northward

of it we brought too, not knowing which way to steer, having at this time

but little wind, and continued so for the most part of the night. At 2

P.M. we made sail with the wind at South-West, and at daylight saw the

land extending as far as North 3/4 East. The point set last night bore

South-West by West, distant 3 or 4 Leagues; I have named it Double Island

Point, on account of its figure (Latitude 25 degrees 58 minutes South,

Longitude 206 degrees 48 minutes West). The land within this point is of

a moderate and pretty equal height, but the point itself is of such an

unequal Height that it looks like 2 Small Islands laying under the land;

it likewise may be known by the white Clifts on the North side of it.

Here the land trends to the North-West, and forms a large open bay,* (*

Wide Bay.) in the bottom of which the land appear'd to be very low, in so

much that we could but just see it from the Deck. In crossing the mouth

of this bay our Depth of Water was from 30 to 32 fathoms, a white sandy

bottom. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the Land, and in the

Latitude of 25 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 45 minutes

West; Double Island Point bore South 3/4 West, and the Northermost land

in sight North 3/4 East. The land hereabouts, which is of a moderate

height, appears more barren than any we have yet seen on this Coast, and

the Soil more sandy, there being several large places where nothing else

is to be seen; in other places the woods look to be low and Shrubby, nor

did we see many signs of inhabitants.

Saturday, 19th. In the P.M. had Variable light Airs, and Calms; in the

night had a light breeze from the land, which in the A.M. veer'd to

South-West and South-South-West. In the evening found the Variation to be

8 degrees 36 minutes East, and in the Morning 8 degrees 20 minutes; as we

had but little wind we keept to the Northward all night, having from 23

to 27 fathoms fine sandy bottom, at the Distance of 2 or 3 Leagues from

the Land. At Noon we were about 4 Miles from it, and by observation in

the Latitude of 25 degrees 4 minutes, and in this situation had but 13

fathoms; the Northermost land in Sight bore North 21 degrees West,

distant 8 Miles; our Course and distance saild since yesterday at Noon

was North 13 degrees 15 minutes East, 31 Miles.

[Off Sandy Cape, Queensland.]

Sunday, 20th. Winds Southerly, Gentle breezes. At 10 p.m. we passed, at

the distance of 4 Miles, having 17 fathoms, a black bluff head or point

of land, on which a number of the Natives were Assembled, which

occasioned my naming it Indian Head; Latitude 25 degrees 0 minutes North

by West, 4 Miles from this head, is another much like it. From this last

the land Trends a little more to the Westward, and is low and Sandy next

the Sea, for what may be behind it I know not; if land, it must be all

low, for we could see no part of it from the Mast head. We saw people in

other places besides the one I have mentioned; some Smokes in the day and

fires in the Night. Having but little wind all Night, we keept on to the

Northward, having from 17 to 34 fathoms, from 4 Miles to 4 Leagues from

the Land, the Northermost part of which bore from us at daylight

West-South-West, and seem'd to End in a point, from which we discover'd a

Reef stretching out to the Northward as far as we could see, being, at

this time, in 18 fathoms; for we had, before it was light, hauld our Wind

to the Westward, and this course we continued until we had plainly

discover'd breakers a long way upon our Lee Bow, which seem'd to Stretch

quite home to the land. We then Edged away North-West and

North-North-West, along the East side of the Shoal, from 2 to 1 Miles

off, having regular, even Soundings, from 13 to 7 fathoms; fine sandy

bottom. At Noon we were, by Observation, in the Latitude of 24 degrees 26

minutes South, which was 13 Miles to the Northward of that given by the

Log. The extream point of the Shoal we judged to bear about North-West of

us; and the point of land above-mentioned bore South 3/4 West, distant 20

Miles. This point I have named Sandy Cape,* (* Sandy Cape is the northern

point of Great Sandy Island. A long narrow channel separates the latter

from the mainland, and opens at its northern end into Harvey Bay, a great

sheet of water 40 miles across. This channel is now much used by the

coasting trade, as it avoids the long detour round Breaksea Spit, a most

dangerous shoal.) on account of 2 very large white Patches of Sand upon

it. It is of a height Sufficient to be seen 12 Leagues in Clear weather

(Latitude 24 degrees 46 minutes, Longitude 206 degrees 51 minutes West);

from it the Land trends away West-South-West and South-West as far as we

could see.

Monday, 21st. In the P.M. we keept along the East side of the Shoal until

2, when, judging there was water for us over, I sent a Boat a Head to

sound, and upon her making the Signal for more than 5 fathoms we hauld

our wind and stood over the Tail of it in 6 fathoms. At this time we were

in the Latitude of 24 degrees 22 minutes South, and Sandy Cape bore South

1/2 East, distant 8 Leagues; but the Direction of the Shoal is nearest

North-North-West and South-South-East. At this time we had 6 fathoms; the

boat which was not above 1/4 of a mile to the Southward of us had little

more than 5 fathoms. From 6 fathoms we had the next Cast, 13, and then 20

immediately, as fast as the Man could heave the Lead; from this I did

suppose that the West side of the Shoal is pretty steep too, whereas on

the other side we had gradual Soundings from 13 to 7 fathoms. This Shoal

I called Break Sea Spit, because now we had smooth water, whereas upon

the whole Coast to the Southward of it we had always a high Sea or swell

from the South-East. At 6, the Land of Sandy Cape extending from South 17

degrees East to South 27 degrees East, distance 8 Leagues; Depth of

Water, 23 fathoms, which depth we keept all Night, as we stood to the

Westward with light Airs from the Southward; but between 12 and 4 A.M. we

had it Calm, after which a Gentle breeze sprung up at South, with which

we still keept on upon a Wind to the Westward. At 7 we Saw from the

Masthead the Land of Sandy Cape bearing South-East 1/2 East, distance 12

or 13 Leagues. At 9, we discover'd from the Mast head land to the

Westward, and soon after saw smooke upon it. Our depth of Water was now

decreased to 17 fathoms, and by Noon to 13, at which time we were by

observation in the Latitude of 24 degrees 28 minutes South, and about 7

Leagues from the Land, which extended from South by West to

West-North-West. Longitude made from Sandy Cape 0 degrees 45 minutes

West.

For these few days past we have seen at times a sort of Sea fowl we have

no where seen before that I remember; they are of the sort called

Boobies. Before this day we seldom saw more than 2 or 3 at a time, and

only when we were near the land. Last night a small flock of these birds

passed the Ship and went away to the North-West, and this morning from

1/2 an hour before sun rise to half an hour after, flights of them were

continually coming from the North-North-West, and flying to the

South-South-East, and not one was seen to fly in any other direction.

From this we did suppose that there was a Lagoon, River, or Inlet of

Shallow Water to the Southward of us, where these birds resorted to in

the day to feed, and that not very far to the Northward lay some Island,

where they retir'd too in the night.

Tuesday, 22nd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South-East, with which

we stood in for the land South-West until 4, when, being in the Latitude

of 24 degrees 36 minutes South, and about 2 Leagues from land, in 9

fathoms, we bore away along shore North-West by West; at the same time we

could see the land extending to the South-South-East about 8 Leagues.

Near the Sea the land is very low, but inland are some moderately high

hills, and the whole appeared to be thickly Cloathed with wood. In

running along shore we shoalded our Water from 9 to 7 fathoms, and at one

time had but 6 fathoms, which determined me to Anchor for the Night, and

accordingly at 8 o'Clock we came too in 8 fathoms, fine gravelly bottom,

about 5 miles from the land. This evening we saw a Water Snake, and 2 or

3 evenings ago one lay under the Ship's Stern some time; this was about 1

1/2 Yards in length, and was the first we had seen. At 6 A.M. weighed

with a Gentle breeze Southerly, and Steer'd North-West 1/4 West, edging

in for the land until we got Within 2 Miles of it, having from 7 to 11

fathoms; we then steer'd North-North-West as the land laid. At Noon we

were by Observation in the Latitude of 24 degrees 19 minutes South;

Longitude made from Sandy Cape 1 degree 14 minutes West.

[At Anchor. Bustard Bay, Queensland.]

Wednesday, 23rd. Continued our Course alongshore at the distance of about

2 Miles off, having from 12 to 9, 8 and 7 fathoms, until 5 o'Clock, at

which time we were abreast of the South point of a Large open Bay,* (*

Bustard Bay.) wherein I intended to Anchor. Accordingly we hauld in Close

upon a Wind, and sent a boat ahead to sound; after making some Trips we

Anchored at 8 o'Clock in 5 fathoms, a Sandy bottom. The South point of

the bay bore East 3/4 South, distant 2 Miles; the North point North-West

1/4 North, about 2 Miles from the shore, in the bottom of the bay. Last

night, some time in the Middle watch, a very extraordinary affair hapned

to Mr. Orton, my Clerk. He having been drinking in the evening, some

Malicious person or persons in the Ship took Advantage of his being

Drunk, and cut off all the Cloaths from off his back; not being satisfied

with this, they some time after went into his Cabin and cut off a part of

both his Ears as he lay a Sleep in his Bed. The person whom he suspected

to have done this was Mr. Magra, one of the Midshipmen; but this did not

appear to me. Upon enquiry, however, as I had been told that Magra had

once or twice before this in their drunken Frolicks cut off his cloaths,

and had been heard to say (as I was told) that if it was not for the Law

he would Murder him, these things consider'd, induced me to think that

Magra was not Altogether innocent. I therefore for the present dismiss'd

him the Quarter deck, and Suspended him from doing any duty in the Ship,

he being one of those Gentlemen frequently found on board King's Ships

that can very well be spared; besides, it was necessary in me to show my

immediate resentment against the person on whom the suspicion fell, least

they should not have stop'd here. With respect to Mr. Orton, he is a man

not without faults; yet from all the inquiry I could make, it evidently

appear'd to me that so far from deserving such Treatment, he had not

designed injuring any person in the Ship; so that I do--and shall

always--look upon him as an injured man. Some reasons, however, might be

given why this misfortune came upon him, in which he himself was in some

measure to blame; but as this is only conjecture, and would tend to fix

it upon some people in the Ship, whom I would fain believe would hardly

be guilty of such an Action, I shall say nothing about it, unless I shall

hereafter discover the Offenders, which I shall take every method in my

power to do, for I look upon such proceedings as highly dangerous in such

Voyages as this, and the greatest insult that could be offer'd to my

Authority in this Ship, as I have always been ready to hear and redress

every complaint that have been made against any Person in the Ship.* (*

This history of Mr. Orton's misadventure is omitted from the Admiralty

copy. It is an illustration of the times to note that the fact of Orton

having got drunk does not seem to call for the Captain's severe censure.

In these days, though the practical joker receives punishment, the

drunkard would certainly come in for a large share also.)

In the A.M. I went ashore with a party of men in order to Examine the

Country, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen; we landed a

little within the South point of the Bay, where there is a Channel

leading into a large Lagoon. The first thing that I did was to sound and

examine the Channell, in which I found 3 fathoms, until I got about a

Mile up it, where I met with a Shoal, whereon was little more than one

fathom; being over this I had 3 fathoms again. The Entrance into this

Channell lies close to the South point of this Bay, being form'd on the

East by the Shore, and on the West by a large Spit of sand; it is about a

1/4 of a Mile broad, and lies in South by West; here is room for a few

Ships to lay very secure, and a small Stream of Fresh Water. After this I

made a little excursion into the Woods while some hands made 3 or 4 hauls

with the Sean, but caught not above a dozen very small fish. By this time

the flood was made, and I imbarqued in the Boats in order to row up the

Lagoon; but in this I was hindred by meeting everywhere with Shoal Water.

As yet we had seen no people, but saw a great deal of Smook up and on the

West side of the Lagoon, which was all too far off for us to go by land,

excepting one; this we went to and found 10 Small fires in a very small

Compass, and some Cockle Shells laying by them, but the people were gone.

On the windward or South side of one of the fires was stuck up a little

Bark about a foot and a half high, and some few pieces lay about in other

places; these we concluded were all the covering they had in the Night,

and many of them, I firmly believe, have not this, but, naked as they

are, sleep in the open air. Tupia, who was with us, observed that they

were Taata Eno's; that is, bad or poor people. The Country is visibly

worse than at the last place we were at; the soil is dry and Sandy, and

the woods are free from underwoods of every kind; here are of the same

sort of Trees as we found in Bottany Harbour, with a few other sorts. One

sort, which is by far the most Numerous sort of any in the Woods, grow

Something like birch; the Bark at first sight looks like birch bark, but

upon examination I found it to be very different, and so I believe is the

wood; but this I could not examine, as having no axe or anything with me

to cut down a Tree. About the Skirts of the Lagoon grows the true

Mangrove, such as are found in the West Indies, and which we have not

seen during the Voyage before; here is likewise a sort of a palm Tree,

which grows on low, barren, sandy places in the South Sea Islands. All,

or most of the same sort, of Land and Water fowl as we saw at Botany

Harbour we saw here; besides these we saw some Bustards, such as we have

in England, one of which we kill'd that weighed 17 1/2 pounds, which

occasioned my giving this place the Name of Bustard Bay (Latitude 24

degrees 4 minutes, Longitude 208 degrees 22 minutes West); we likewise

saw some black and white Ducks. Here are plenty of small Oysters sticking

to the Rocks, Stones, and Mangrove Trees, and some few other shell fish,

such as large Muscles, Pearl Oysters, Cockels, etc. I measured the

perpendicular height of the last Tide, and found it to be 8 foot above

low water mark, and from the time of low water to-day I found that it

must be high Water at the full and Change of the Moon at 8 o'Clock.

Thursday, 24th. In the P.M. I was employ'd ashore in the Transactions

before related; at 4 a.m. we weighed with a Gentle breeze at South, and

made sail out of the Bay. In standing out our soundings were from 5 to 15

fathoms; when in this last Depth we were abreast of the North Point, and

being daylight we discover'd breakers stretching out from it about

North-North-East, 2 or 3 miles; at the Outermost point of them is a Rock

just above Water. In passing these rocks at the distance of 1/2 a mile we

had from 15 to 20 fathoms; being past them, we hauld along shore

West-North-West for the farthest land we had in sight. At Noon we were by

Observation in the Latitude of 23 degrees 52 minutes South; the North

part of Bustard Bay bore South 62 degrees East, distance 10 miles, and

the Northermost land in sight North 60 degrees West. Longitude in 208

degrees 37 minutes West, distance from the nearest shore 6 Miles; in this

situation had 14 fathoms water.

[Off Cape Capricorn, Queensland.]

Friday, 25th. In the P.M. had it calm until 5, when a light breeze sprung

up at South-East, and we steer'd North-West as the land lay until 10,

then brought too, having had all along 14 and 15 fathoms. At 5 A.M. we

made sail; at daylight the Northermost point of the Main bore North 70

degrees West, and soon after we saw more land making like Islands,

bearing North-West by North; at 9 we were abreast of the point, distant

from it 1 mile; Depth of Water 14 fathoms. I found this point to lay

directly under the Tropic of Capricorn, and for that reason call it by

that Name. Longitude 209 degrees 0 minutes West. It is of a Moderate

height, and looks white and barren, and may be known by some Islands

which lie to the North-West of it, and some small Rocks one League

South-East from it; on the West side of the Cape there appeared to be a

Lagoon. On the 2 Spits which form the Entrance were a great Number of

Pelicans; at least, so I call them. The most northermost land we could

see bore from Cape Capricorn North 24 degrees West, and appeared to be an

Island;* (* Hummocky Island.) but the Main land Trended West by North 1/2

North, which Course we steer'd, having from 15 to 16 fathoms and from 6

to 9, a hard sandy bottom. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 23

degrees 24 minutes South; Cape Capricorn bore South 60 degrees East,

distance 2 Leagues; a small Island North by East 2 Miles. In this

Situation had 9 fathoms at the distance of 4 Miles from the Main land,

which is here low and Sandy next the Sea, except the points which are

moderately high and rocky; in land the Country is hilly, and affords but

a very indifferent prospect.* (* Between Bustard Bay and Cape Capricorn

is Port Curtis, in which stands the small town of Gladstone. Cape

Capricorn is the eastern point of Curtis Island, and to the northward is

Keppel Bay, into which falls the Fitzroy River. Up the latter, 35 miles

from the sea, is Rockhampton, the second largest town of Queensland. All

this coast is encumbered with shoals, outside of which Cook had so far

prudently kept. To seaward begins the long chain of islands and reefs

known as the Great Australian Barrier, which stretches up to Torres

Straits. Cook was unaware of their existence, as they were out of sight,

but he became painfully acquainted with them later, where the reefs

approach the land, and make navigation along the coast anxious work; but

he here began to get into difficulties with the shoals which stretch off

the coast itself.)

Saturday, 26th. In the P.M. light breezes at East-South-East, with which

we stood to the North-West until 4 o'Clock, when it fell calm, and soon

after we Anchored in 12 fathoms. Cape Capricorn bearing South 54 degrees

East, distant 4 Leagues, having the Main land and Islands in a manner all

around us. In the night we found the tide to rise and fall near 7 feet,

and the flood to set to the Westward and Ebb to the Eastward; which is

quite the reverse to what we found it when at Anchor to the Eastward of

Bustard Bay. At 6 a.m. we weigh'd with the Wind at South, a Gentle

breeze, and stood away to the North-West, between the Outermost range of

Islands* (* The Keppel Islands.) and the Main land, leaving several small

Islands between us and the Latter, which we passed Close by. Our

soundings was a little irregular, from 12 to 4 fathoms, which caused me

to send a Boat ahead to sound. At noon we were about 3 Miles from the

Main, about the same distance from the Islands without us; our Latitude

by Observation was 23 degrees 7 minutes South, and Longitude made from

Cape Capricorn 18 Miles West. The Main land in this Latitude is tolerable

high and Mountainious; and the Islands which lay off it are the most of

them pretty high and of a Small Circuit, and have more the appearance of

barrenness than fertility. We saw smookes a good way in land, which makes

me think there must be a River, Lagoon, or Inlet, into the Country, and

we passed 2 places that had the Appearance of such this morning; but our

Depth of Water at that Time was too little to haul in for them, where I

might expect to meet with less.

Sunday, 27th. We had not stood on to the Northward quite an hour before

we fell into 3 fathoms, upon which I anchor'd, and Sent away the Master

with 2 Boats to sound the Channell, which lay to Leeward of us between

the Northermost Island and the Main Land, which appear'd to me to be

pretty broad; but I suspected that it was Shoal, and so it was found, for

the Master reported to me upon his return that he found in many places

only 2 1/2 fathoms, and where we lay at Anchor we had only 16 feet, which

was not 2 feet more than the Ship drew.* (* This was between Great Keppel

Island and the Main. There is a mass of shoals here.) In the Evening the

wind veer'd to East-North-East, which gave us an opportunity to stretch 3

or 4 miles back the way we Came before the Wind Shifted to South, and

obliged us again to Anchor in 6 fathoms. At 5 o'Clock in the A.M. I sent

away the Master with 2 Boats to search for a Passage out between the

Islands, while the Ship got under sail. As soon as it was light the

Signal was made by the boats of their having found a Passage, upon which

we hoisted in the Boats, and made sail to the Northward as the land lay;

soundings from 9 to 15 fathoms, having still Some small Islands without

us.* (* The ship passed out between Great Keppel Island and North Keppel

Island.) At noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Main Land, and by

observation in the Latitude of 22 degrees 53 minutes South, Longitude

made from Cape Capricorn 0 degrees 20 minutes West. At this time the

Northermost point of Land we had in sight bore North-North-West, distance

10 Miles; this point I named Cape Manyfold, from the Number of high Hills

over it; Latitude 22 degrees 43 minutes South; it lies North 20 degrees

West, distant 17 Leagues from Cape Capricorn. Between them the shore

forms a large Bay, which I call'd Keppel Bay, and the Islands which lay

in and Off it are known by the same name; in this Bay is good Anchorage,

where there is a sufficient depth of Water; what refreshment it may

afford for Shipping I know not.* (* As before mentioned, the Fitzroy

River falls into Keppel Bay, and forms a good harbour, though much

encumbered with sand banks.) We caught no fish here, notwithstanding we

were at Anchor; it can hardly be doubted but what it afforded fresh Water

in several places, as both Mainland and Islands are inhabited. We saw

smokes by day and fires in the night upon the Main, and people upon one

of the Islands.

[Off Cape Townshend, Queensland.]

Monday, 28th. Winds at South-South-East, a fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock in

the P.M. we passed Cape Manifold, from which the Land Trends

North-North-West. The land of this Cape is tolerable high, and riseth in

hills directly from the Sea; it may be known by 3 Islands laying off it,

one near the Shore, and the other 2 Eight Miles out at Sea; the one of

these is low and flat, and the other high and round.* (* Peak and Flat

Islands.) At 6 o'Clock we shortned sail and brought too; the Northermost

part of the Main we had in sight bore North-West, and some Islands lying

off it bore North 31 degrees West; our soundings since Noon were from 20

to 25 fathoms, and in the Night 30 and 34 fathoms. At day light we made

Sail, Cape Manifold bearing South by East, distance 8 Leagues, and the

Islands set last night in the same directions, distance from us 4 Miles.

The farthest point of the Main bore North 67 degrees West, distant 22

Miles; but we could see several Islands to the Northward of this

direction.* (* The easternmost of the Northumberland Islands.) At 9

o'Clock we were abreast of the above point, which I named Cape Townshend*

(* Charles Townshend was Chancellor of the Exchequer 1767.) (Latitude 22

degrees 13 minutes, Longitude 209 degrees 48 minutes West); the land of

this Cape is of a moderate and pretty even height, and is more barren

than woody. Several Islands lay to the Northward of it, 4 or 5 Leagues

out at Sea. 3 or 4 Leagues to the South-East the Shore forms a bay,* (*

Shoalwater Bay, a large inlet.) in the bottom of which there appeared to

be an inlet or Harbour to the Westward of the Coast, and Trends

South-West 1/2 South; and these form a very large Bay, which turns away

to the Eastward, and probably communicates with the Inlet above

mentioned, and by that Means makes the land of the Cape an Island. As

soon as we got round the Cape we hauld our wind to the Westward in order

to get within the Islands which lay scatter'd up and down in this bay in

great number, and extend out to Sea as far as we could see from the

Masthead; how much farther will hardly be in my power to determine; they

are as Various in their height and Circuit as they are numerous.* (* The

Northumberland islands, a very extensive group.) We had not stood long

upon a Wind before we meet with Shoal Water, and was obliged to Tack

about to avoid it; after which I sent a boat ahead, and we bore away West

by North, leaving many small Islands, Rocks, and Shoals between us and

the Main, and a number of Large Islands without us; soundings from 14 to

17 fathoms, Sandy Bottom. A little before noon the boat made the Signal

for meeting with Shoal Water, upon which we hauld close upon a Wind to

the Eastward, but suddenly fell into 3 1/4 fathoms water, upon which we

immediately let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up with all sails

standing, and had then 4 fathoms Coarse sandy bottom. We found here a

strong Tide setting to the North-West by West 1/2 West, at the rate of

between 2 and 3 Miles an Hour, which was what Carried us so quickly upon

the Shoal. Our Latitude by Observation was 22 degrees 8 minutes South;

Cape Townshend bore East 16 degrees South, distant 13 Miles, and the

Westermost part of the Main Land in sight West 3/4 North, having a number

of Islands in sight all round us.* (* The ship was on the Donovan Shoal

in Broad Sound Channel.)

Tuesday, 29th. Fresh gales between the South-South-East and

East-South-East, Hazey weather, with some showers of rain. In the P.M.,

having sounded about the Ship, and found that their was Sufficient Water

for her over the Shoal, we at 3 o'clock weigh'd and made Sail, and stood

to the Westward as the Land lay, having first sent a boat ahead to sound.

At 6 we Anchor'd in 10 fathoms, Sandy bottom, about 2 Miles from the Main

Land, the Westermost part of which bore West-North-West, having still a

Number of Islands in sight a long way without us. At 5 a.m. I sent away

the Master with 2 Boats to sound the Entrance of an inlet, which bore

from us West, distance about 1 League, into which I intended to go with

the Ship to wait a few days, until the Moon increased, and in the

meantime to examine the Country. By such time as we had got the Ship

under Sail the Boats made the Signal for Anchorage, upon which we stood

in with the Ship, and Anchor'd in 5 fathoms, about a League within the

Entrance of the inlet, which we judged to be a River running a Good way

inland, as I observed the Tides to flow and Ebb something considerable.*

(* It is in reality a narrow channel which runs into Broad Sound.) I had

some thoughts of laying the Ship a Shore to Clean her bottom. With this

view both the Master and I went to look for a Convenient place for that

purpose, and at the same time to look for fresh Water, not one drop of

which we could find, but met with several places where a Ship might be

laid ashore with safety.

[At Anchor, Thirsty Sound.]

Wednesday, 30th. In the P.M. I went again in search of Fresh Water, but

had no better success than before; wherefore I gave over all thoughts of

laying the Ship a Shore, being resolved to spend as little time as

possible in a place that was likely to afford us no sort of refreshment.

But as I had observed from the Hills the inlet to run a good way in, I

thought this a good time to penetrate into the Country to see a little of

the inland parts. Accordingly I prepared for making that Excursion in the

morning, but the first thing I did was to get upon a pretty high Hill,

which is at the North-West entrance of the inlet, before Sunrise, in

order to take a view of the Sea Coast and Islands, etc., that lay off it,

and to take their bearings, having the Azimuth Compass with me for that

purpose, the Needle of which differ'd from its True position something

very considerable, even above 30 degrees, in some places more, and in

other less, for I try'd it in several places. I found it differ in itself

above 2 points in the space of about 14 feet. The loose stones which lay

upon the Ground had no effect upon the Needle; I therefore concluded that

it must be owing to Iron Ore upon the Hill, visible signs of which

appeared not only here, but in several other places. As soon as I had

done here I proceeded up the inlet. I set out with the first of the

flood, and long before high water got about 8 Leagues up it; its breadth

thus far was from 2 to 4 or 5 Miles upon a South-West by South direction;

but here it spread every way, and formed a Large lake, which communicated

with the Sea to the North-West. I not only saw the Sea in this direction,

but found the tide of flood coming strong in from the North-West. I

likewise observ'd an Arm of this Lake extending to the Eastward, and it

is not at all improbable but what it Communicates with the Sea in the

bottom of the bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Townshend.* (* This

is exactly what it does.) On the South side of the Lake is a ridge of

pretty high hills, which I was desirous of going upon; but as the day was

far spent and high water, I was afraid of being bewilder'd among the

Shoals in the night, which promised to be none of the best, being already

rainy, dirty weather, and therefore I made the best of my way to the

Ship. In this little Excursion I saw only 2 people, and those at a

distance, and are all that we have seen in this place, but we have met

with several fire places, and seen smokes at a distance. This inlet,

which I have named Thirsty Sound, by reason we could find no fresh Water,

lies in the Latitude of 22 degrees 05 minutes South, and Longitude 210

degrees 24 West; it may be known by a Group of small Islands Laying under

the shore from 2 to 5 Leagues North-West from it.* (* Barren Islands.)

There is likewise another Group of Islands laying right before it between

3 and 4 Leagues out at Sea.* (* Duke Islands.) Over each of the Points

that form the Entrance is a pretty high, round Hill; that on the

North-West is a Peninsula, surrounded by the Sea at high water; the

distance from the one to the other is about 2 Miles bold to both Shores.

Here is good Anchoring in 7, 6, 5, and 4 fathoms water, and very

Convenient places for laying a Ship ashore, where at Spring Tides the

tides doth not rise less than 16 or 18 feet, and flows at full and Change

of the Moon about 11 o'Clock. We met with no fresh water, or any other

kind of refreshments whatever; we saw 2 Turtle, but caught none, nor no

sort of Fish or wild fowl, except a few small land birds. Here are the

same sort of Water Fowl as we saw in Botany Bay, and like them, so shy

that it is hardly possible to get within shott of them. No signs of

Fertility is to be seen upon the Land; the Soil of the up lands is mostly

a hard, redish Clay, and produceth several sorts of Trees, such as we

have seen before, and some others, and clear of all underwoods. All the

low lands are mostly overrun with Mangroves, and at Spring tides

overflow'd by the Sea; and I believe in the rainy Seasons here are large

land floods, as we saw in many places Gullies, which seem'd to have been

made by torrents of Water coming from the Adjacent hills, besides other

Visible signs of the Water having been a Considerable height above the

Common Spring Tides. Dr. Solander and I was upon a rising Ground up the

inlet, which we thought had at one time or another been overflow'd by the

Sea, and if so great part of the Country must at that time been laid

under Water. Up in the lakes, or lagoons, I suppose, are shell fish, on

which the few Natives subsist. We found Oysters sticking to most of the

Rocks upon the Shore, which were so small, as not to be worth the picking

off.* (* Cook was very unfortunate in his landing here. The channel is at

the end of a long headland between two bays, Shoalwater Bay and Broad

Sound, and was a very unlikely place either to find water or get any true

idea of the country.)

Thursday, 31st. Winds Southerly and South-East; Dark, Hazey weather, with

rain. In the P.M., finding no one inducement to stay longer in this

place, we at 6 a.m. Weighed and put to Sea, and stood to the North-West,

having the Advantage of a fresh breeze at South-South-East. We keept

without the Group of Islands which lay in Shore, and to the North-West of

Thirsty Sound, as there appear'd to be no safe passage between them and

the Main; at the same time we had a number of Islands without us

extending out to Sea as far as we could see; as we run in this direction

our depth of Water was 10, 8 and 9 fathoms.* (* The ship passed between

the Duke Islands and the maze of reefs and islands lying North-West of

Thirsty Sound.) At Noon the North-West point of Thirsty Sound, which I

have named Pier head, bore South 36 degrees East, distant 5 Leagues; the

East point of the other inlet, which Communicates with the former, as I

have before mentioned, bore South by West, distance 2 1/2 Leagues, the

Group of Islands above mentioned laying between us and the point. The

farthest part of the Main in sight, on the other side of the inlet, bore

North-West; our Latitude by Observation was 21 degrees 53 minutes South.

[June 1770.]