THE GROUND AND CROQUETERIE.
The most important requisite for a croquet ground is smoothness of
surface. Very good sport may be had on a ground slightly inclined;
indeed a little practice will enable the players to make allowance for
the inclination, so as to play with as much accuracy as if the surface
were horizontal. But if the turf presents small inequalities, the
direction and force of the stroke can never be accurately estimated. If
the stroke is gentle, the ball may fall short or be turned aside. If the
stroke is forcible, the ball will bound along the ground, and may jump
entirely over another ball which it was intended to roquet. A croquet
ground can always be brought to the requisite degree of smoothness by
having the surface beaten with a spade after a rain; or, better still,
thoroughly rammed with a paver's mallet. Rolling is not so effective,
unless the ground is very soft or the roller very heavy. The size and
shape of the ground is a matter of much less importance. The boundaries
within which a ball can be placed should be traced or agreed upon; still
better permanently defined by a ditch or slight embankment; and should,
if possible, form a parallelogram of eighty feet by fifty. The turf
within them should be kept as short as possible. The best arrangement of
bridges for the four-ball game is that given in Figure I. For the six or
eight-ball game Figure II. is preferable. A ball meets with two kinds of
obstructions in making the "grand round"--it is obliged to pass through
all the bridges, and again it may be croquetted and driven out of its
course by an enemy. In the six or eight ball game, the dangers being
much increased, it is well to diminish the difficulties, or the contest
may be tediously protracted. This is accomplished by removing the
central bridge and straightening the course. The channel is less
tortuous, but "roving" privateers, clothed with "belligerent rights,"
are more frequently met, and the risks and excitement of the passage are
equalized in both cases.
[Illustration: NO. I. FOUR BALL ARRANGEMENT.]
[Illustration: NO. II. EIGHT BALL ARRANGEMENT.]
In the diagrams the dotted lines indicate the order in which the
bridges are to be run, and show the course of a ball making the "grand
round."
The balls should be perfect spheres, about three inches in diameter, the
size depending upon the weight of the wood from which they are made.
Maple or beech is a very good material, but the best are made from the
buttonwood or American sycamore. They should be boiled in linseed oil to
give them the requisite weight and firmness. If boiled too long,
however, they will become too heavy. Six ounces is about the proper
weight, and a light ball is infinitely preferable to a heavy one for
accurate play at long distances. Eight balls constitute a full set. They
must be painted different colors, as the individuality of each ball is
an important element in the game. As there is no necessity for the
exercise of great strength in croquet, a set of balls made from seasoned
wood and prepared as I have described ought to last a generation.
A variety of mallets should be provided, as different players prefer
different sizes. One of the surest hitters I have ever known uses a
mallet about fourteen inches long with a heavy head. The wood of the
apple tree is the best material for the heads, and straight-grained ash
for the handles. The standard handle is thirty-two inches long, one inch
in diameter at the upper end, and five-eighths of an inch at the lower,
tapering gradually. The head should be a cylinder about two inches in
diameter and four inches long. It is best to make the faces square; for
if they are convex, it renders it necessary to strike the ball exactly
with the centre of the mallet head to insure an accurate stroke.
The stakes should be about two feet long, and one and one-half inches in
diameter. At least one of them should have rings painted on it
corresponding to the colors of the balls. This is merely to aid in
recollecting the order of play.
Nine bridges are required in the four-ball arrangement, ten in the
other. Firkin hoops, or hickory withs, about as large as the ramrod of a
rifle, will answer the purpose very well. If soaked a day or two they
can easily be bent into the required shape. The best, however, are made
of three-eighths round iron. The span of the bridges should be rather
less than three times the diameter of a ball. Eight inches is enough. If
the ground is small so as to necessitate placing the bridges closer
than in the standard arrangement, the span should be narrowed, and "vice
versa," on the principle that too much difficulty protracts the game,
too little renders it devoid of interest. The height and form of the
arch is immaterial, but the pier or side of the bridge should be
straight for at least three inches from the ground, and the centre of
the arch from seven to nine inches high. The bridges should be driven
firmly into the ground, in a plane perpendicular to the horizon and to
the line joining the stakes. An inspection of the diagrams will furnish
all needful information as to position.