From war's dread ravages again is seen,
A spacious town, and Buffalo the name,
Now rising from its ashes, spreads around.
Various new structures fill the empty ground.
From Tonawanta to Buffalo is eight miles, five of which they travelled
on the canal which runs along the bank of the Niagara river as far as
Black Rock.
[_Travels_ (chapter VI continues):
From this place, the canal runs along the bank of the Niagara, from
which it is separated only by a small bank, built rather carelessly,
and several feet above the level of the river, which is already
somewhat rapid on account of its vicinity to the falls. On the
Tonnawanta Creek we saw several canoes which were made by excavating
the trunks of trees. From Tonnawanta to Buffalo it is eight miles,
five of which we travelled on the canal as far as Black Rock....]
Buffalo was burnt during the late war by the British, but it appeared to
be already rising from its ashes with increased beauty.
[_Travels_:
Buffalo was burnt during the late war, by the British, but it has
arisen from its ashes with increased beauty.]
This town will soon become an important place, in consequence of its
situation near the mouth of the canal, and its harbour. At the entrance
of the harbour is a light-house, and on the lake were seen a number of
well-built vessels. A steam-boat called the Superior was ready to run
with fifty passengers to Erie, and thence to Detroit. There was an
amusing military spectacle. It consisted of a military parade,
consisting of thirty men, including seven officers and two cornets. They
were formed like a battalion into six divisions and performed a number
of manoeuvres.
[_Travels_:
The town contains about five thousand inhabitants, and will, in
consequence of its situation near the mouth of the canal and its
harbour, at which they are hard at work, soon become an important
place. At the entrance of the harbour is a light-house, and on the
lake we observed several schooners of about three hundred tons.
A steam-boat, called the Superior, was ready to start with fifty
passengers to Erie, and thence to Detroit. In the streets, we saw
some tolerably well-dressed Indians of the Seneca tribe, who have
their wigwam three miles distant. Amongst them were several women,
who indeed, but for their complexion, might have been considered
handsome. We also had an amusingmilitary spectacle. It consisted of
a militia parade, consisting of thirty men, including seven officers
and two cornets. They were formed, like a battalion, into six
divisions, and performed a number of manoeuvres....]
On the following day, 21st August, the company left Buffalo for the
small village of Manchester, twenty-three miles distant, and situated on
the right bank of the Niagara, near the falls. As far as the village of
Tonawanta, the road passes along the canal. It was in a very bad
condition, cut through the forest, and the trees thrown on the road
side. On the left they had a view of the river and Grand Island. The
river is more than a mile wide below the island. On the Canada side is
the village of Chippewa. From this place, a distance of three miles,
they could already see the rising vapours of the falls. The water,
however, indicated no signs of the approach to the precipice. It is only
a short distance from Manchester, where you perceive the lofty trees on
Goat Island, with its heights situated in the midst of the falls, that
the river becomes rocky, and the rapids commence; these form a number of
small falls, which are nearly a mile long and the same in breadth,
running as far as where the two great falls are separated by Goat
Island.
[_Travels_:
On the following day, 21st of August, we left Buffalo for the small
village of Manchester, twenty-three miles distant, and situated on
the right bank of the Niagara, near the falls. As far as the village
of Tonnawanta the road passed along the canal.
It was in a very bad condition, cut through the forest, and no pains
have been taken to remove the trees, which are thrown on the road
side, and the most beautiful trunks are permitted to spoil in a
pitiable manner. On the left we had a view of the river and of
Grand-Island, thickly studded with timber. The river is more than
one mile wide below the island. On the Canada side is the village of
Chippewa. From this place, a distance of three miles, we could
already see the rising vapours of the falls. The water, however,
indicated no signs of the approach to the precipice. It is only a
short distance from Manchester, where you perceive the lofty trees
on Goat-Island with its heights, situated in the midst of the falls,
that the river becomes rocky, and the rapids commence; these form a
number of small falls, which are nearly a mile long and the same in
breadth, running as far as where the two great falls are separated
by Goat-Island.]
At Manchester they took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern, and hastened
immediately to the Falls; their steps were guided by the mighty roaring.
In a few minutes Alida and her company stood near the precipice, and saw
before them the immense mass of water which rushes with a tremendous
noise into the frightful abyss below. It is impossible to describe the
scene, and the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelings
of our insignificance on the one hand, with those of grandeur and
sublimity on the other, which agitate the human breast at the sight of
this stupendous work of nature, which rivals that of all other
countries, in grandeur, beauty and magnificence. We can only gaze,
admire and adore. The rocks on both sides are perpendicular, but there
is a wooden staircase which leads to the bed of the river.
[_Travels_:
At Manchester, we took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern, and hastened
immediately to the Falls: our steps were guided by their mighty
roaring. In a few moments we stood near the precipice, and saw
before us the immense mass of water which rushes with a tremendous
noise into the frightful abyss below. It is impossible to describe
the scene, and the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneons
feelings of insignificence and grandeur which agitate the human
breast at the sight of this stupendous work of nature! We can only
gaze, admire, and adore. The rocks on both sides are perpendicular,
but there is a wooden staircase which leads to the bed of the
river.]
They descended, but in consequence of the drizzly rain which is produced
by the foam of the water, they had by no means so fine a prospect from
below as they anticipated. On this account, therefore, they soon again
ascended and satisfied themselves by looking from above upon this
sublime and majestic sight. As they returned, full of these mighty
impressions, to the Eagle Tavern, they found to their great joy a fine
opportunity to speak of the grandeur and magnificence they had just
beheld. There was another party just arrived from New-York, to render
homage to this great natural curiosity.
[_Travels_:
We descended, but in consequence of the drizzly rain which is
produced by the foam of the water, we had by no means so fine a
prospect from below as we anticipated. On this account, therefore,
we soon ascended and satisfied ourselves by looking from above upon
this sublime and majestic sight. As we returned, full of these
mighty impressions, to the Eagle Tavern we found to our great joy a
fine opportunity of speaking of the grandeur and magnificence we had
just beheld. Lieutenants De Goer and Van Vloten, of the Pallas, had
just arrived to render homage to this great natural curiosity.]
In company with these gentlemen and ladies, they took a walk to
Goat-Island, by a convenient wooden bridge, thrown over the rapids about
seven years since. The first bridge leads to a small island called
Bath-Island, which contains a bath-house; the second to Goat-Island,
which is about one mile in circumference, and overgrown with old and
beautiful trees.
[_Travels_:
In company with these gentlemen we took a walk to Goat-Island, by a
convenient wooden bridge, thrown over the rapids about seven years
since. The first bridge leads to a small island called Bath-Island,
which contains a bath-house and billiard-room: the second to
Goat-Island, which is about one mile in circumference, and overgrown
with old and beautiful trees. The Indians who formerly resided in
this part of the country....]
On Bath-Island a person may approach so near the American falls as to
look into the abyss below. From the foot of the falls you can see
nothing of the abyss, inasmuch as every thing is concealed by the smoke
and vapour. On Goat-Island a person may in the same manner approach the
Canadian falls in the centre of which is a semi-circular hollow, called
the Horse-shoe, and here the noise is still more tremendous than on the
other side. The vapour which rises from the Horse-shoe, forms a thick
mist, which may be seen at a great distance.
[_Travels_:
On Bath-Island a person may approach so near to the American falls
as to look into the abyss below. The animals in the neighbourhood
are so careless of this, that the cows and horses go into the river
to drink within five yards of the brink of the precipice. From the
foot of the falls you can see nothing of the abyss, inasmuch as
every thing is concealed by the foam and vapour. On Goat-Island a
person may in the same manner approach the Canadian falls, in the
centre of which is a semicircular hollow, called the Horse-shoe, and
here the noise is still more tremendous than on the other side. The
vapour which rises from the Horse-shoe forms a thick mist, which may
be seen at a great distance.]
To look into the Horse-shoe is awful and horrible. Nor can this be done
but at the instant when the vapour is somewhat dissipated. You stand
like a petrified being. The level of Lake Erie is said to be five
hundred and sixty-four feet above that of the sea, and three hundred and
thirty-four feet above the waters of Lake Ontario. Lake Ontario is
consequently two hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea.
From Lake Erie to the rapids the water has a fall of fifteen feet, in
the rapids fifty-seven feet, and according to a recent measurement, the
falls on the American side are one-hundred and sixty-two feet high. From
this place to Lewistown the river has a fall of one hundred and four
feet, and thence to Lake Ontario, of two feet.
[_Travels_:
To look into the Horse-shoe is awful and horrible. Nor can this be
done but at the instant when the vapour is somewhat dissipated. You
stand like a petrified being. The level of Lake Erie is said to be
five hundred and sixty-four feet above that of the sea, and three
hundred and thirty-four feet above the waters of Lake Ontario. Lake
Ontario is consequently two hundred and thirty feet above the level
of the sea. From Lake Erie to the rapids the water has a fall of
fifteen feet, in the rapids fifty-seven feet, and according to a
recent measurement, the falls on the American side are one hundred
and sixty-two feet high. From this place to Lewistown the river has
a fall of one hundred and four feet, and thence to Lake Ontario, of
two feet.]
The next morning they made another visit to Goat Island. They afterwards
descended the stairs to the river, which they crossed in a small boat,
at a short distance from both falls. The bed of the river is said to be
here two hundred and forty-six feet deep. The current passes beneath the
surface of the water, and does not again become visible till after a
distance of three miles. On the Canada side you have a much better view
of the falls than on the American, for you see both falls at the same
time. There is on the Canada side a covered wooden staircase, which they
ascended, and approached the falls, amidst a constant drizzling caused
by the falling water.
[_Travels_:
The next morning, 22d of August, we made another visit to
Goat-Island. We afterwards descended the stairs to the river, which
we crossed in a small boat, at a short distance from both falls. The
bed of the river is said to be here two hundred and forty-six feet
deep. The current passes beneath the surface of the water, and does
not again become visible till after a distance of three miles. On
the Canada side you have a much better view of the falls than on the
American, for you see both falls at the same time. There is on the
Canada side a covered wooden staircase, which we ascended, and
approached the falls, amidst a constant drizzling caused by the
falling water.]
The sun threw his rays upon the thick mist and formed a beautiful
rainbow. Another winding stair-case leads down the rocks near the falls,
under which you may walk to the distance of one hundred and twenty feet;
several of the gentlemen went in, but according to their report, they
could not see any thing. They were contented, therefore, to behold the
falls from Table rock, which almost overhangs them. A part of this rock
gave way several years ago and fell down the precipice, and the
remaining part is so much undermined by the water, that it will probably
soon follow. The whole distance from the American to the British shore
is fourteen hundred yards, of which three hundred and eighty belong to
the American falls, three hundred and thirty to Goat-Island, and seven
hundred to the Canada or Horse-shoe falls.
[_Travels_:
The sun threw his rays upon the thick mist and formed a beautiful
rainbow. Another winding staircase leads down the rocks near the
falls, under which you may walk to the distance of one hundred and
twenty feet; several of the gentlemen present went in, but according
to their report they could not see any thing. I was contented
therefore to behold the falls from Table rock, which almost
overhangs them. A part of this rock gave way several years ago and
fell down the precipice, and the remaining part is so much
undermined by the water that it will probably soon follow. The whole
distance from the American to the British shore is fourteen hundred
yards, of which three hundred and eighty belong to the American
falls, three hundred and thirty to Goat-Island, and seven hundred
yards to the Canada or Horse-shoe falls.]
On the British side, opposite to the falls, are two taverns, in the
larger of which, Forsyth's Hotel, they took lodgings until the next day.
During the late war a bridge was thrown over the river about one mile
above this tavern, which, together with a mill, was burnt by the
Americans on their retreat from the battle of Lundy's Lane. A few years
ago a burning spring was discovered here. It is surrounded by a cask,
and contains cold water of a blackish appearance, and of a sulphurous
taste. Within this cask is a small vessel which has a pipe at the upper
end. If a lighted candle be held within a foot of the mouth of this
pipe, it will instantly produce a strong flame, similar to a gas-light.
In the neighbourhood of Forsyth's Hotel is the only point from which you
have a full view of both falls at the same time, which, however, is
often interrupted by the ascending vapour.
[_Travels_:
On the British side, opposite to the falls are two taverns, in the
larger of which, Forsyth's Hotel, we took lodgings until the next
day, when we intended to pay a visit to the governor of Upper
Canada, Sir Peregrine Maitland, who resides at his country seat
within a few miles of the falls. During the late war a bridge was
thrown over the river about one mile above this tavern, which,
together with a mill, was burnt by the Americans on their retreat
from the battle of Lundy's Lane. A few years ago a burning spring
was discovered here, several of which are said to occur in different
parts of the United States. It is surrounded by a cask, and contains
a cold water of a blackish, slimy appearance, and of a sulphurous
taste. Within this cask is a small vessel which is open at the
bottom, and has a pipe at its upper end. If a lighted candle be held
within a foot of the mouth of this pipe, it will instantly produce a
strong flame, similar to a gas-light. If the vessel be taken out,
and the candle be held over the surface of the water, it will
produce the same effect, but the flame will soon disappear. In the
neighbourhood of Forsyth's Hotel is the only point from which you
have a full view of both falls at the same time, which, however, is
often interrupted by the ascending vapour.]
On their return to the American shore, they examined a camera obscura,
which is situated at the head of the American stair-case, and was built
by a Swiss. This gives a tolerably good view of the falls. Afterwards
they took a ride to the Whirlpool, which is three miles down the
Niagara, and is formed by a kind of rocky basin where the river runs
between narrow rocky banks. It is singular to see this confusion of
water, whose appearance cannot be better described than by comparing it
with the flowing of melted lead. The lofty rocks which form the banks of
the river, are beautifully covered with wood, and present a stately,
majestic appearance. In the evening they again went to Goat-Island in
order to view the falls by bright moonlight; in this light they produce
a peculiarly beautiful effect, which is greatly heightened by a
moon-rainbow.
[_Travels_:
On our return to the American shore, we examined a camera obscura
which is situated at the head of the American staircase, and was
built by a Swiss. This gives a tolerably good view of the falls.
Afterwards we took a ride to the Whirlpool, which is three miles
down the Niagara, and is formed by a kind of rocky basin where the
river runs between narrow rocky banks. It is singular to see this
confusion of the water, whose appearance cannot be better described
than by comparing it with the flowing of melted lead. The lofty
rocks which form the banks of this river, are beautifully covered
with wood and present a stately, majestic appearance. In the evening
I again went to Goat-Island in order to view the falls by bright
moonlight: in this light they produce a very peculiarly beautiful
effect, which is greatly heightened by a moon-rainbow.]
The following day both parties went to the other side of the river, and
took lodgings at Forsyth's Hotel.
[_Travels_:
The following day, 23d August, all our company departed; my friend
Tromp and myself alone remained. We went to the other side of the
river, and took lodgings at Forsyth's Hotel....]
High on Hyria's rock my muse repose,
While I wild nature's direful scenes disclose,
Nor let wing'd Fancy's bold creative aid,
Paint beyond truth what nature's God has made;
Inspir'd by him let every flowing line,
Describ'd correctly, through the numbers shine.
Fed by a thousand springs and purling rills,
Ocean's internal, the wild torrent fills.
Lakes Michigan, Superior, there we see,
Concent'ring Huron's flood with proud Erie:
The awful stream its wond'rous course began,
Roll'd the rich flood before the date of man.
From Buffalo to Chippewa bends its course,
Full eighteen miles, with calm and rapid force,
By Grand Isle passes, where its stream divides,
Whose circling course, majestic, downward glides.
Meets then again a verdant island long,
Gathers the weeping brook, and swells more strong,
Widening the swift high-mounted torrent flies
Like lightning bursting from the thund'ring skies.
The time-worn cliffs, retiring to their source,
Shews countless ages it has run its course.
The Schlosser fall eight hundred ninety-two
Will count the feet how broad this current grew.
Two thousand with two hundred crescent line
Will the full breadth of Horse-Shoe Fall define.
The little fall, with width of seventy-three,
Will tell whence Neptune feeds his hungry sea.
Tumbling one hundred sixty feet, they all
Make one loud groaning in Niagara Fall.
Thick hov'ring mists in mountain vapours rise,
Bright colour'd rainbows gild the azure skies.
The dazzled eye, fill'd with the novel blaze
Beholds, astonished, their refracted rays.
Nor ends the awful scene, till down the view,
Through the dark gulf, these boiling floods pursue.
Their course 'tween mountain rocks, which form the shore,
Through which, tremendous raging billows roar.
Until they form a bay, where tide-worn trees,
In conflicts wild rage round the whirlpool seas:
Huge splintered logs here twisting round and round,
With many a turn before they quit the ground;
At length escaping from the circling tide,
Side-long slide off, and with a bouncing glide,
Head-long adown through rapid streams are toss'd,
Until in wide Ontario's lake are lost.
Neptune thus roused leaves now the wat'ry plain,
To seek the source from whence he holds his reign.
Full in the view of this tremendous scene,
Adjacent here, a table rock is seen;
Where love-sick swains in clambering groups repair,
Conducting tim'rous nymphs with anxious care:
'Dew'd with the spray, the wild'red eye surveys,
The rushing waters shout their Maker's praise.