Oats Medicine Deer
_La-ram_ _Le-shaw_ _Mu-lack_
Oar, for boats Shoe Elk
_Le-wash_ _Le-sack_ _Muse-a-muse_
Snow Sack, or bag Cattle
_Lemonti_ _Le-quim_ _Me-si-ka_
Mountain White bear Plural of you
_Muck-a-muck_ _O-ep-can_ _Papo_
Provisions, eat Basket Father
_Musket_ _O-ep-in-pin_ _Pil_
Rifle, or gun Skunk Red
_Moon_ _O-e-lile_ _Pe-chi_
Month Berries Green
_Mo-kah_ _O-e-pick_ _Pat-le_
Buy Both Full
_Mim-a-loosheb_ _O-elk_ _Poo_
Die, or dead Snake Shoot
_Mal-hu-ale_ _O-lo_ _Pe-teck_
Back Hungry The world
_Mi-ka_ _Oel-hin_ _Pilton_
You Seal Foolish
_Ni-ka_ _O-koke_ _Pal-a-k-lo_
I, or me This, or that Night
_Nan-ach_ _Pi-yah_ _Pes-hocks_
Look, or see Fire Thickety
_Na-ha_ _Pos-ton_ _Pis-say-ukes_
Mother Americans French
_New-ha_ _Pee_ _Quack-quack_
Let And Duck
_Now-it-k_ _Pus_ _Si-wash_
Yes, certainly If Indians
_Ne-si-ka_ _Puss_ _Swas_
We, us Cat Rain
_Nein_ _Pish-hash_ _Sah-lee_
Name Polecat High
_O-es-km_ _Pos-seas_ _Stick_
Caps Blanket Wood
_Oel-man_ _Pot-latch_ _Seck-um_
Old Give Swim
_O-pet-sa_ _Pole-ally_ _Si-yaw_
Knife Powder Far
_O-pes-wa_ _Po-et_ _Sap-a-lil_
Wonder, astonishment Boat Flour
_Ow_ _Pa-pa_ _Su-ga_
Brother Paper Sugar
_Sec-a-lukes_ _Shot_ _To-lo_
Pantaloons Shot Win, or gain
_Sap-a-pul_ _Sup-ner_ _Te-ma-has_
Hat Jump Poison
_Sto-en_ _Til-a-kum_ _Ti-pee_
Rock People An ornament
_Sil_ _Tit-the-ko-ep_ _Te-kah_
Shirting Cut Want
_Sko-kum_ _Tum-tum_ _Till_
Strong, stout The heart Heavy, or tired
_Sec-pee_ _Te-o-wit_ _Toc-ta_
To miss Leg Doctor
_See-ah-os-ti_ _Tum-pe-lo_ _Wah-wah_
Face, or eyes Back Talk, conversation
_Sam-mon_ _Tam-o-lack_ _Wake_
Fish Barrel No, not
_Sto-gon_ _Ti-ye_ _Wap-a-to_
Sturgeon Master, or chief Potato
_Son-dra_ _Tes-um_ _Win_
Roan Pretty Wind
_Salt_ _To-lo-bus_ _Wam_
Salt Wolf Warm
_Shu-es_ _Te-ko-ep_ _Wetch_
Shoes White More
_Sun_ _Te-mo-lo_ _Ya-ka_
Sun, or day To-morrow Him, she, it
_Silk-um_ _Tu-lusk_ _Yaw-wah_
Half, or a part Milk Yonder
_Smo-ek_ _Tip-so_ _Yok-sa_
Smoke Grass Hair
_Sul-luks_ _Tum-tuk_ _Ya-ha-la_
Mad, angry Water-falls Name
_Six_ _Ton-tle-ke_ _Yult-cut_
Friends Yesterday Long
_Sick_ _T-sit-still_ _You-till_
Sick, or sore Buttons, or tacks Glad, proud
_Shut_ _Tee-see_
Shirt Sweet
CHINOOK MODE OF COMPUTING NUMBERS
_Iht_ 1 _Dilo-p-sin-a-maxt_ 17
_Makst_ 2 _Dilo-p-sow-skins_ 18
_Klone_ 3 _Dilo-p-k-wi-etst_ 19
_Lakst_ 4 _Tath-la-hun makst_ 20
_K-win-nim_ 5 _Tath-la-hun klone_ 30
_Ta-hum_ 6 _Tath-la-hun lakst_ 40
_Sina-maxt_ 7 _Tath-la-hun k-win-ma_ 50
_Sow-skins_ 8 _Tath-la-hun ta-hum_ 60
_K-wi-etst_ 9 _Tath-la-hun sin-a-maxt_ 70
_Tath-la-ham_ 10 _Tath-la-hun sow-skins_ 80
_Dilo-pe-iht_ 11 _Tath-la-hun k-wi-etst_ 90
_Dilo-p-maxt_ 12 _Tak-o-mo-nuxt_ 100
_Dilo-p-klone_ 13 _Tak-o-mo-maxt_ 200
_Dilo-p-lakst_ 14 _Tak-o-mo-nuxt klone_ 300
_Dilo-p-k-winnim_ 15 _Tak-o-mo-nuxt lakst_ 400
_Dilo-p-ta-hum_ 16 _Tak-o-mo-nuxt k-win-nim_ 500
WORDS USED IN THE NEZ PERCÉ LANGUAGE
_Hama_ _Talonot_ _Ipalikt_
Man Ox Clouds
_Aiat_ _Talohin_ _Wakit_
Women Bull Rain
_Haswal_ _Kulkulal_ _Hiwakasha_
Boy Calf Rains
_Pitin_ _Shikam_ _Maka_
Girl Horse Snow
_Silu_ _Tilipa_ _Hatia_
Eye Fox Wind
_Huku_ _Tahspul_ _Yakas_
Hair Beaver Hot
_Ipsus_ _Kelash_ _Yamits_
Hand Otter Cold
_Ahwa_ _Hisamtucks_ _Tiputput_
Feet Sun Warm
_Simusimu_ _Hayaksa_ _Silakt_
Black Is hungry Body
_Ilpilp_ _Husus_ _Katnanas_
Red Head Salt
_Yosyos_ _Kohalh_ _Haya_
Gray Cow Salmon-trout
_Shukuishukui_ _Kaih_ _Wahwahlam_
Brown Colt Trout
_Kohatu_ _Highwayahwasa_ _Ilat_
Short Snows Weak
_Kohat_ _Haihai_ _Wals_
Long White Knife
_Kalinin_ _Ashtai_ _Ilatama_
Crooked Fork Is blind
_Tukuh_ _Ashtai_ _Lakailakai_
Straight Awl Gentle
_Silpsilp_ _Wawianas_ _Shiau_
Money Axe Skittish
_Taiitaii_ _Kimstam_ _Waiat_
Flat Near Far
_Hamoihamoi_ _Maksmaks_ _Shakinkash_
Soft Yellow Saw
_Sisyukas_ _Shapikash_ _Wishan_
Sugar File Poor
_Pishakas_ _Takai_ _Ilahui_
Bitter Blanket Many
_Komain_ _Sham_ _Milas_
Sickness Coat Few
_Hickomaisa_ _Ahwa_ _Animikinikai_
Is sick Foot Below
_Aluin_ _Silpsilp_ _Tokmal_
Is lame Round Hat
_Wakaas_ _Tohon_ _Huwialatus_
Is well Pantaloons Weary
_Tinukin_ _Ilapkit_ _Ahat_
Is dead Shoe Down
_Hiswesa_ _Hikai_ _Akamkinikai_
Is cold Kettle Above
_Yahet_ _Sham_ _Koko_
Neck Shirt Raven
_Nahso_ _Laka_ _Houtat_
Salmon Pine Goose
_Tushti_ _Isa_ _Houtat_
Up Mother Geese
_Atim_ _Nisu_ _Yaya_
Arm Child Swan
_Matsayee_ _Mamaias_ _Yatin_
Ear Children Crane
_Piama_ _Hikai_ _Paps_
Brothers Pail Fir, (tree)
_Kelah_ _Sishnim_ _Kopkop_
Sturgeon Thorns Cottonwood
_Wayu_ _Sikstua_ _With_
Leg Friend Alder
_Kupkup_ _Lantuama_ _Tahs_
Back Friends Willows
_Timina_ _Walatakai_ _Tims_
Heart Pan Cherry
_Sho_ _Kuish_ _Satahswakkus_
Spoon Risk Corn
_Kahno_ _Shushai_ _Paks_
Prairie-hen Grass Wheat
_Huhui_ _Suyam_ _Lapatat_
Shoulder Sucker Potatoes
_Pisht_ _Hashu_ _Papa_
Father Eel A spring
_Walpilkash_ _Shakantai_ _Wawahp_
Auger Eagle Spring (season)
_Katkat_ _Sholoshah_ _Tiam_
Duck Fish-hawk Summer
_Askap_ _Washwashno_ _Shahnim_
Brother Hen Fall
_Asmatan_ _Koun_ _Anim_
Sisters Dove Winter
_Kinis_ _Aa_ _Pelush_
Sister Crow Gooseberry
_Kikaya_ _Timanawat_ _Yaka_
Serviceberry A writer Black bear
_Kahas_ _Sapaliknawat_ _Kemo_
Milk A labourer Old man
_Katamnawakno_ _Hania_ _Tahat_
Peas Made Young man
_Hahushwakus_ _Hanishaka_ _Otwai_
Green Have made Old woman
_Inina_ _Hanitatasha_ _Timai_
House Will make Young woman
_Sanitwakus_ _Hanikika_ _Pishas_
Parsnips Made going Father-in-law
_Initain_ _Hanisna_ _Pishas_
For a house Made coming Son-in-law
_Initpa_ _Ipna hani aisha_ _Siwako_
To the house Make for him Mother-in-law
_Initkinai_ _Hanitasa_ _Siwaka_
From the house Go and make Daughter-in-law
_Initrim_ _Tash hama_ _Inaya_
House only Good man Brother-in-law
_Ininm_ _Tash timina_ _Siks_
Of a house Good heart Sister-in-law
_Initki_ _Tash shikam_ _Pimh_
By a house Good horse Step-father
_Initph_ _Tiskan shikam_ _Kaka_
To a house Fat horse Step-mother
_Haniai_ _Hamtis shikam_ _Lemakas_
Not made Fast horse Deep
_Haniawat_ _Kapskaps shikam_ _Pakas_
A mechanic Strong horse Shallow
_Hanishimai_ _Sininish shikam_ _Mul_
Not a mechanic Lazy horse Rapids
_Tamtainat_ _Kapsis shikam_ _Amshah_
Preacher Bad horse Breaker
_Himtakewat_ _Haihai shikam_ _Watas_
Teacher White horse Land
_Tamiawat_ _Hahas_ _Pishwai_
Trader Gray bear Stones
_Mahsham_ _Hitkakokaiko_ _Watoikash_
Mountain He gallops It is fordable
_Kuhsin_ _Hitksilsilsa_ _Hatsu hiyaniksa_
Hill He trots Wood is floating
_Tahpam_ _Himilmilisha_ _Hiwalasa_
Plain He paces The water runs
_Hantikam_ _Hiwalakaiks_ _Hahanwasam_
Bough He walks The day is dawning
_Tepitepit_ _Hishaulakiks_ _Wako hikaaun_
Smooth He runs It is daylight now
_Wilpwilp_ _Titishka shikam_ _Hitinatra hisamtuks_
Round Fat horses The sun is rising
_Pohol_ _Maksmaks shikam_ _Naks halaps_
Valley Sorrel horse One day
_Tasham_ _Hihaihai shikam_ _Hikulawitsa_
Ridge White horse It is evening
_Iwatam_ _Tamsilps shikam_ _Kaaun_
Lake Spotted horse Daylight
_Tikim_ _Tilamselp shikam_ _Hatsu hialika_
Falls Spotted horses The wood is lodged
_Hitkawisha_ _Minsahsminko_ _Kia waaiikshi_
He falls Read We are crossing
_Kohat tawish_ _Kokalh_ _Ka apapinmiks_
Long horn Cattle Let us sleep
_Wishan kokalk_ _Hiwaliksa_ _Ka apahips_
Poor ox The river is rising Let us eat
_Lilkailakikokal_ _Hitaausa_ _Ka apakus_
Gentle cows The river is falling Let us go
_Hiwasasha_ _Hiwalasa_ _Ka apasklin_
He rides The water runs Let us go back
NEZ PERCÉ MODE OF COMPUTING NUMBERS
_Naks_ 1 _Putimpt wah wimatat_ 18
_Lapit_ 2 _Putimpt wah kuis_ 19
_Mitat_ 3 _Laptit_ 20
_Pilapt_ 4 _Laptit wah naks_ 21
_Pahat_ 5 _Mitaptit_ 30
_Wilaks_ 6 _Piloptit_ 40
_Winapt_ 7 _Pakaptit_ 50
_Wimatat_ 8 _Wilaksaptit_ 60
_Kuis_ 9 _Winaptit_ 70
_Putimpt_ 10 _Wimitaptit_ 80
_Putimpt wah naks_ 11 _Kuisaptit_ 90
_Putimpt wah lapit_ 12 _Putaptit_ 100
_Putimpt wah mitat_ 13 _Laposhus_ 200
_Putimpt wah pilapt_ 14 _Mitoshus_ 300
_Putimpt wah pahat_ 15 _Pelaposhus_ 400
_Putimpt wah wilaks_ 16 _Pakoshus_ 500
_Putimpt winapt_ 17
TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM INDEPENDENCE,
MISSOURI; AND ST. JOSEPH, TO
OREGON CITY, IN OREGON
TERRITORY
MILES
FROM Independence to Rendezvous 20
" Rendezvous to Elm Grove 13
" Elm Grove to Walkarusha 20
" Walkarusha to crossing of Kansas river 28
" Kansas to crossing of Turkey creek 14
" Turkey creek to Little Vermilion 24
" Little Vermilion to branch of same 12
" To Big Vermilion, with intermediate camps 29
" Vermilion to Lee's branch 8
" Lee's branch to Big Blue 6
" Big Blue to the junction with St. Joseph's trail 10
The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to the Independence trail,
striking it ten miles west of Blue river, is about one hundred miles.
Good camps can be had from eight to fifteen miles apart.
From forks of road as above, to Big Sandy, striking
it near its junction with the Republican
Fork of Blue river, with intermediate camps 42
" Sandy to Republican fork of Blue river 18
" up Republican fork, with good camps 53
" Republican fork to Big Platte 20
" up Big Platte to the crossing of South fork 120
Camps can be had at suitable distances, with wood for fuel upon the
islands.
From lower to upper crossings of South fork 45
There is a road on each side of the river, and but little choice in
them.
From South to North fork, at Ash Hollow 20
" Ash Hollow to opposite Solitary Tower, on
Little creek 42
" Little creek to opposite Chimney rock 16
" Chimney Rock to where the road leaves the
River 15
" thence to Scott's Bluffs (Good Spring) 10
" Scott's Bluffs to Horse creek 12
" Horse creek to Fort Laramie 24
" Laramie to Dry Branch and Big Spring 12
" to Bitter Cottonwood 10
To Willow Branch 7
" Horse Shoe Creek 7
" River 8
Thence to where the Road leaves the River 8
To Big Timber creek 16
" Marble creek 5
" Mike's-head creek 12
" the River, crossing several streams 10
" Deer creek 6
Thence to crossing of North fork of Platte 25
From crossing of Platte to Spring 10
Thence to Mineral Springs (bad camp) 8
" Willow Spring (good camp) 5
" Independence Rock on Sweet Water 22
" Devil's Gate 5
Up Sweet Water to South Pass (good camps) 104
Over the dividing ridge to Pacific Spring, the waters
of which run into Green river 5
HERE, HAIL OREGON!
From Spring to Little Sandy 20
Here the road forks, the southern trail going by way of Bridger's Old
Fort, and thence to Bear river. The northern (which is two and a half
days less driving) strikes Green river about forty miles above the
southern trail; I will give the distance on both routes.
The northern route, from Little Sandy to Big Sandy 6
From Big Sandy to Green river 40
(No water and but little grass between.)
" thence to Bear river, (with good camps,) 64
On the southern route:--
From Little Sandy to Big Sandy 12
Down Big Sandy to Green river 24
Cross Green river and down 8
From Green river to Black's fork 15
Up Black's fork to Bridger's Old Fort 30
From Old Fort to Little Muddy (poor camp) 8
" thence to Big Muddy (poor camp) 10
Up Big Muddy to the dividing ridge (good camp
near head of creek) 32
Over dividing ridge to spring 10
From spring to camp on Bear river 6
" thence to where the northern trail comes in 10
To Smith's fork three miles, to Narrows four miles,
and thence to crossing of Bear river three miles 10
Here the road forks; the nearest is to follow up
the creek two miles, cross and then go over the ridge
five miles to foot of Big Hill, where the roads again
unite 7
The other road crosses the river, follows up the bottom about ten miles,
re-crosses and is then about seven miles to junction.
From foot of Big Hill, to top of ridge is about 3
" thence to Big Timber on Bear river 4
Here is a company of American traders and trappers
From Big Timber to Soda Springs 36
" Spring to Soda Pool seven miles, to Spring
Branch three 10
" Spring to Running Branch 9
" thence to foot of hill 8
" foot of hill over dividing ridge and down to
camp 12
" thence to Lewis's river bottom at Springs 18
and to Fort Hall 5
" Fort Hall to the crossing of Portneth 6
" Portneth to American falls 12
" American falls to Levey Creek 15
" thence to Cassia creek, (here the California
trail turns off) 8
" Cassia to Big Marsh 15
" Marsh to River 11
" River to Goose creek four miles, seven miles
to river, and twelve miles to Dry Branch,
(water in pools) 23
To Rocky Creek 8
To crossing of Rocky creek, eight miles, down
to where the road leaves the bluff of creek,
seven 15
" Salmon Falls creek 20
From thence to Salmon falls 6
" Falls to first crossing of Lewis river 23
" crossing to Bois river is about 70
Camps can be had from six to fifteen miles
Down Bois river to Fort Bois (good camps) 46
Cross Lewis river and thence to Malheur 15
" Malheur to Birch creek, about 20
" Birch creek to river three miles, and thence
five miles to Burnt river 8
Up Burnt river about (good camps) 26
From where the road leaves Burnt river, to the lone
pine stump in the bottom of Powder river,
(the last thirteen miles no water) 28
To the crossing of Powder river 10
To Grand Round 15
Across the southern end of Grand Round 7
Up Big Hill and on to Grand Round river 8
Over the Blue Mountains to Lee's encampment 19
To Umatillo river 16
Down Umatillo river 44
" Columbia river to John Day's river 33
From thence to Falls river 22
And thence to the Dalles of the Columbia 16
From the Dalles to Oregon city, by way of wagon
road south of Mount Hood about 160
Upon reaching the Columbia, emigrants should have persons in advance
to select suitable places for camp ground: as the country along the
river is extremely barren, and the grazing limited to small patches.
APPENDIX
LETTER OF THE REV. H. H. SPALDING TO JOEL PALMER
(_Referred to on page 126_ [_our page 233_])
NEZ PERCÉ MISSION, CLEAR WATER RIVER,
_Oregon Territory_, April 7, 1846.
TO JOEL PALMER ESQ. OF INDIANA.
MY DEAR SIR:--Agreeably to your request I most cheerfully give you my
views concerning the Oregon territory, its extent, its most desirable
climate, fertility of soil, rivers and mountains, seas and bays, and its
proximity to one of the most extensive markets opening upon the world.
The Oregon territory is usually divided into three great divisions, the
lower, middle, and upper regions. The upper includes the Rocky
Mountains, with the head waters of most of the rivers running west and
east, north and south, and extends west to the Blue and Spokan ranges of
mountains. The lower includes the belt of country bounded on the west by
the Pacific, and on the east by the Nesqually, Cascade, and California
Mountains. The middle region lies between the two, and embraces probably
far the greatest extent of country, and is in some respects the most
desirable for settlers.
The number of rainy days, during the winter season, in the lower
country, is thought to be about eighty-five one-hundredths; while the
number of rainy days during the same season in the upper (or middle)
country, is about fifteen one-hundredths. {166} There is but little more
snow during the winter season in the middle than in the lower region of
the Columbia river, or upon the plains. Of course the depth of snow upon
the mountains, depends upon their height.
The lower country is subject to inundations, to a greater or less
extent, from the Columbia river, which gathering into standing pools,
with the great amount of vegetable decay consequent upon low prairie
countries, produces to some extent unhealthy fogs during the summer
season. This, however, is greatly moderated by the sea breezes from the
Pacific. The middle region is entirely free from these evils, and has
probably one of the most pacific, healthy, and every way most desirable
climates in the world. This, with its extensive prairies, covered with a
superior quality of grass tuft, or bunch grass, which springs fresh
twice a year, and spotted and streaked everywhere with springs and
streams of the purest, sweetest water, renders it admirably adapted to
the herding system. The lower country will ever have greatly the
advantage in its proximity to market, its extensive sea coast, and from
the fact that it contains one of the largest and best harbors in the
world, viz. Puget's sound, running far inland, the mouth of which is
protected by Vancouver's island, easy of access at all seasons and under
all winds.
But to go into detail. Myself and wife were appointed missionaries by
the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and destined
to this field, and with our worthy associates, Dr. Whitman, and lady,
arrived in this country in the fall of 1836. The Doctor settled among
the Cayuses near fort Wallawalla, and myself at this place, where we
have ever since continued to dwell. Our duties have called us to travel
more or less every year to visit the distant bands and tribes, as also
to pack our supplies. I have traversed this middle region in seventeen
different routes, of from 60 to 300 miles. Over many of the routes I
have passed probably in every month in the year, have marked the
progress of vegetation from its earliest shooting forth; the effects of
this climate {167} upon the animal constitution; the rapidity with which
exhausted poor animals regain their flesh and activity, when turned upon
the plains; and have kept tables under some of these heads, as also a
meteorological table for several years.
Let me here observe that my views of the country have been materially
changed by a more accurate acquaintance with its true nature. I once
thought the valleys only susceptible of habitation; considering the
plains too dry for cultivation. But I am now prepared to say this is not
the case. The plains suffer far less from drought than the valleys, on
account of the reflection of heat from the surrounding hills. The
country, however, is nowhere peculiarly subject to drought, as was once
thought. My place is one of the deepest valleys, and consequently the
most exposed to the reflection from the high bluffs around, which rise
from two to three thousand feet; but my farm, though prepared for
irrigation, has remained without it for the last four years. I find the
ground becomes more moist by cultivation. Three years ago I raised six
hundred bushels of shelled corn from six acres, and good crops of wheat
on the same piece the two following years, without irrigation. Eight
years ago I raised 1500 bushels of potatoes from one acre and a half;
measuring some of the bags in which they were brought to the cellars,
and so judging of the whole amount. I gave every eleventh bag for
digging and fetching, and kept a strict account of what every person
brought, so that I was able to make a pretty accurate estimate of the
whole amount. My potatoes and corn are always planted in drills.
Every kind of grain or vegetable which I have tried or seen tried in
this upper country, grows well. Wheat is sown in the fall, and harvested
in June at this place; at Dr. Whitman's in July, being a more open
country. Corn is planted in April and ripens in July; peas the same.
EXTENT OF COUNTRY
The southern boundary of Oregon territory is the 42d degree of north
latitude. The northern boundary is not yet settled;[222] {168} both
England and The United States claim north of the Columbia river to
latitude 49°. But this vast fertile region, well timbered upon the
mountains and river sources, and well watered, besides having the fine
harbor above named, Puget's sound, must ever remain the most important
portion of Oregon, especially on account of this harbor, which will
naturally control these seas, and consequently the country. Should the
British flag finally exclusively wave over its placid waters, it will be
to the rest of Oregon as Quebec is to Canada, or Gibraltar to the
Mediterranean. Vancouver's Island is doubtless another reason why Great
Britain wishes to make the Columbia river her northern boundary. The
line of 49° passes a little north of the southern half of the island.
The whole island contains a territory considerably larger than England
and Scotland, produces every kind of grain and vegetable well, and has a
climate very similar to our Middle and Southern states. Whatever nation
possesses this island, or the south portion of it, with its neighboring
harbor, Puget's sound, possesses nearly all of a national consideration
which pertains to Oregon, and will consequently control it. But if this
island, or this portion of it, with this harbor, add their ever
controlling influence to the undivided interests of Oregon, this young
colony, but yesterday begun, and whose country and existence were but
yesterday disputed, will at no distant day, under the softening,
life-giving influence of civilization and our holy religion, take its
place among the wealthiest, happiest, and best nations of the earth.
The country of Oregon, should it extend to 49° north latitude, is
probably capable of sustaining as great a population as two-thirds of
the territory of the States, and with far less hard labor.
CLIMATE
This is decidedly the inviting characteristic of the country, and is
certainly a great inducement for all persons of delicate health. I speak
of the middle region. Free from marshes or standing water and vegetable
decay, the air is remarkably pure and serene; summers rather warm,
especially in the valleys; the mercury ranges, for some time during the
hot season, from 100 to 109 degrees above zero. Nights cool, but no fog
or dew, except in a few places. Twice since I have been in the country
frost has injured vines, leaves, &c., first of May, but never in the
fall till late; often my melon vines, &c., are green till the first of
December. Four times since I have been here the mercury has fallen below
zero; once to 26 degrees. But usually it ranges above 20 in the morning,
and above 60 through the day. During six of the ten winters I have
passed in the country, the rivers have not been frozen. The Columbia
river has been frozen nearly to its mouth, twice since I have been in
the country. The snow sometimes falls a foot deep--I should judge about
once in five years. About half of my winters here there has been no snow
in the valleys, and but little on the plains, except to whiten the earth
for a short time. It disappears in a few hours, especially on the south
face of the bluffs and hills. Last year I made a collection of flowers
and plants, which I purpose to send to Washington. I gathered two
flowers in January, on the 22d and 29th,[223] and during the month of
February some 40 showed themselves, and by the first of March the grass
on the south faces of the bluffs was 14 inches high. This year the
season was about three weeks later, judging by the appearance of
flowers. I know of no disease that can be said to be peculiar to the
country. The country is peculiarly free from sudden changes of weather,
or violent storms. Persons who have wintered here from the south, tell
me the winters are as mild as the winters {170} in the northern parts of
North and South Carolina, and with less sudden changes.
ADVANTAGES FOR THE HERDING SYSTEM
The country is one extensive prairie, except the mountains, which are
covered with several species of pine, cedar, and fir. The prairies are
rolling, and with the exception of a narrow belt of sand and sedge upon
the Columbia, and portions of the Snake river, are everywhere covered
with the bunch grass, which, from observation, I judge to be a richer,
heartier food for animals than corn, oats, and the best pastures of the
States. It is a fine, solid stalk, growing two feet high, with fine
leaves, holds its freshness through the winter; I mean the old stalk,
which mingled with the young growth, that usually springs fresh in the
fall, forms a food for animals through the winter, preferable to the
best hay. Horses and oxen perform labor at all seasons upon this grass
simply, without the aid of grain; which I now think disposes the animal
system to various diseases.