each horse carrying two hundred pounds--rest an hour at noon, without
taking down the packs; camp while the sun is yet two hours high; hobble
the horses and drive them up in the morning at sunrise. I find that
horses will endure such labor for twenty-five or thirty days, resting of
course on the Sabbath, upon this grass, without injuring them. Their
wind is evidently better than that of horses fed on grain and hay. I
have rode from Dr. Whitman's station to this, 125 miles, in nineteen
hours, starting at 9 o'clock in the night, and driving a spare horse for
change; but this was no advantage, for I find it is more fatiguing to a
horse to be drove than to be rode. You doubtless recollect the man who
overtook us on the head of Alapausawi, Thursday morning. He had left the
Dalles or Long Narrows on the Columbia on Tuesday morning, slept a short
time Tuesday night below the Umatillo, passed by Dr. Whitman's station,
and slept Wednesday night on the Tukanan, {171} a distance from the
Dalles of two hundred and forty miles; and the day he passed us he
traveled fifty-five miles more.[224] He rode one horse and drove another
for change. You will probably even recollect those horses, as they left
us upon the round gallop. A man went from this place, starting late, to
Wallawalla, and returned on the third day, sun two hours high, making
the journey in about two days and a half. The whole distance traveled
was two hundred and fifty miles, and but one horse was used. None of
these horses were injured.
Cattle, sheep, horses, and hogs feed out through the winter, and
continue fat. We very often kill our beef in March, and always have the
very best of meat. Often an ox from the plains, killed in March, yields
over one hundred and fifty pounds of tallow. You have seen two
specimens, one killed at Dr. Whitman's, and one at this place. Sheep
need the care of a shepherd through the winter, to protect the lambs
from the prairie wolves. A band of mares should have a good stud that
will herd them and protect the colts from the large wolves. Some thirty
different kinds of roots grow abundantly upon the plains and bluffs,
which, with the grass, furnish the best of food for hogs, and they are
always good pork. The south faces of the extensive bluffs and hills are
always free from snow, and, cut up into ten thousand little ravines,
form the most desirable retreat imaginable for sheep during the winter.
Here they have the best of fresh grass, and the young lambs, coming
regularly twice a year, are protected from the winds and enlivened by
the warm sun. We have a flock of sheep belonging to the Mission,
received from the islands eight years ago; there are now about one
hundred and fifty. Not one has yet died from disease, a thing of such
frequent occurrence in the States. It must certainly become a great wool
growing country.
I cannot but contrast the time, labor, and expense requisite to look
after herds in this country, with that required in the States,
especially in the Northern and Middle States, where two-thirds of every
man's time, labor, and money is expended {172} on his animals, in
preparing and fencing pasture grounds and meadows, building barns,
sheds, stables, and granaries, cutting and securing hay and grains, and
feeding and looking to animals through winter. In this country all this
is superceded by Nature's own bountiful hand. In this country a single
shepherd with his horse and dogs can protect and look after five
thousand sheep.[225] A man with his horse and perhaps a dog can easily
attend to two thousand head of cattle and horses, without spending a
dollar for barns, grain, or hay. Consider the vast amount of labor and
expense such a number of animals would require in the States. Were I to
select for my friends a location for a healthy happy life, and speedy
wealth, it would be this country.
Timber is the great desideratum. But the country of which I am
particularly speaking, extending every way perhaps four hundred miles,
is everywhere surrounded by low mountains, which are thickly timbered,
besides two or three small ridges passing through it; also the rivers
Columbia, Snake, Spokan, Paluse, Clear Water, Yankiman, Okanakan,
Salmon, Wailua, Tukanan, Wallawalla, Umatillo, John Day's and river De
Shutes; and down most of these timber or lumber can be rafted in any
quantities. So that but a very small portion of the country will be over
ten or fifteen miles from timber; most of it in the immediate vicinity
of timber. The numerous small streams which occur every five or six
miles, affording most desirable locations for settlements, contain some
cotton wood, alder and thorn. But timber is soon grown from sprouts. The
streams everywhere run over a stony bottom, while the soil is entirely
free from stone. Streams are rapid, affording the best of mill
privileges.
MARKET, SEAS AND BAYS
The western shores of Oregon are washed by the placid {173} waters of
the Pacific, which bring the 360,000,000 of China, the many millions of
the vast Indies and of Australasia, and lay them at our doors with
opening hands to receive our produce; which, with the numerous whale
ships that literally whiten the Northern Pacific, calling not only for
provisions, but harbors to winter in, must ever afford one of the most
extensive markets in the world for all kinds of produce, and one
concerning which there need be but little fear that it will ever be
overstocked. A market compared with which, that offered by western
Europe to the eastern section of the United States, will become as a
drop to the bucket. The United States' Commercial Agent at Oahu,
Sandwich Islands, is desirous to make a contract for a certain amount of
provisions to be supplied to American shipping every year at Oregon
city; but as yet the supplies of the country over and above the home
consumption, are not sufficient to warrant a dependence of our whale
shipping upon the country. In fact for many years, while the United
States continue to pour their inhabitants by tens of thousands, every
year, into this young republic, the home market must continue in
competition with the foreign. But the day is not distant when this
country, settled by an industrious, virtuous, Sabbath-loving people,
governed by wholesome laws, blessed with schools, and the institutions
of our holy religion, will hold out abundant encouragements for the
numerous whale and merchant ships of the Pacific to leave their heavy
lading of three years' supply of provisions at home, and depend upon the
market in the immediate vicinity of their fishing grounds. Others
following in their track, learning of this new world, and finding out
our ample harbors, soon this little obscure point upon the map of the
world will become a second North American Republic--her commerce
whitening every sea, and her crowded ports fanned by the flags of every
nation. From this upper country, a distance of three hundred or four
hundred miles, droves of cattle and sheep can be driven to the lower
portions of the Columbia river, {174} with far less expense and labor
than they are driven the same distances in the States, always being in
the midst of grass upon which they may feed every night without charge.
The principal harbors are Puget's Sound, mouths of Columbia, Frazier's,
Shahales, Umpqua, Rose and Clamet rivers.[226] Doubtless others will be
discovered, as the country becomes more known. A dangerous bar extends
nearly across the mouth of the Columbia, leaving but a narrow obscure
channel, difficult of access or egress, except with favorable winds.
Vessels sometimes find it impossible to enter the river by reason of
contrary winds; and sometimes are detained in the river two or three
months, there not being sea room enough to go out against a head wind.
This difficulty could be greatly obviated, and perhaps removed, by a
pilot boat. Concerning the other rivers I have no certain knowledge, but
have been informed that some of them are navigable for vessels from
forty to sixty miles, and afford convenient harbors. Puget's Sound, as
before observed, is one of the safest and best harbors in the world, it
can be entered or left under any winds and at any season of the year.
The scenery around is said to be most enchanting. Two lakes near sending
off a small stream of pure water. A considerable river runs into the
sound, making a fall of some twenty-five feet just as it plunges into
the sea, affording the opportunity of building mills upon the wharfs.
But very little has been known by Americans concerning the extensive
country north of the Columbia, till last winter. I have several times
been told by British subjects that the countries bordering on Frazier's
river and Puget's Sound were too sterile for cultivation, and but poor
crops could be raised on the Cowlitz. Whereas, the exploring party who
left Oregon city, last winter, report that they found a very extensive
country north of the Columbia river, of apparently good soil, well
timbered with pine and oak, and well watered with the following rivers
and their tributaries, viz.: the Cowlitz, emptying into the Columbia
river from the north; the Shahales, {175} running into a small bay north
of the Columbia river; the Nesqualla, rising near the source of the
Cowlitz, and running north into Puget's Sound; Frazier's river north of
this, and several smaller ones not named.
On the Cowlitz, Nesqualla and Frazier's rivers, the Hudson Bay Company
have large establishments, and are producing vast quantities of wool,
beef, pork, and all kinds of grain, for British whale ships which
frequent the harbors. Besides these establishments, they have extensive
farms and herds at Vancouver, in the Willamette valley and Colvile, and
trading posts on Vancouver island, and at the mouth of the Columbia
river, Umpqua, Vancouver, Wallawalla, Okanakan and Colvile, Boise and
fort Hall, with very many at the north. Some of these are strongly
fortified, and are being well supplied with cannon and other munitions
of war, by almost every ship that arrives. So I have been informed by
persons from these ships.
With the extensive valley watered by the Willamette and its numerous
tributaries, you are better acquainted than myself, as I have never
visited that country. I cannot, however, deny myself the pleasure of
expressing my opinion of the country, formed from information derived
yearly from scores of persons who have dwelt long in, or traveled more
or less through its extensive territory, at all seasons of the year.
On the west the great valley is separated from the Pacific by a low
range of well timbered mountains, that give rise to numerous streams and
small rivers, some of which are lately found sufficient to admit
vessels. On the east it is bounded by the Cascade or President's range,
everywhere abounding with white pine and cedar. The Willamette river
rises in latitude 42° and runs north and empties itself into the
Columbia river 85 miles above its mouth. The falls of the Willamette are
about thirty miles above its mouth, and must ever add a vast interest to
the country. The power for mills and machinery that may be erected on
each side of the river, and on the island in the middle of the falls, is
adequate for almost any conceivable demand.
{176} Oregon city, situated at the falls on the east side of the river,
contains over five hundred souls, about eighty houses, viz.: two
churches, two blacksmith shops, one cooper shop, two cabinet shops, four
tailor shops, one hatter's shop, one tannery, three shoe shops, two
silver smiths, four stores, two taverns, two flouring and two saw mills,
and a lathe machine. Directly opposite, on the west side, are two towns
laid out, and buildings are going up. The face of the country in the
Willamette valley is rolling, very equally divided into prairie and
timbered countries, with frequent oak openings. Wheat produces well;
corn, potatoes, &c. produce well in some places, and probably would
everywhere do well with good cultivation; soil everywhere considered of
a superior quality. Less snow during the winter season than in the
middle district, but much more rain, with fogs, on the low lands during
the summer, which render the country less healthy than this middle
region; but still the country cannot be considered an unhealthy country.
The face of the country is everywhere covered with bunch grass,[227] and
animals feed out through the winter, as in the middle region.
The rivers Umpqua, Rose and Clamet, which empty into the Pacific, south
of the Columbia, are said to water extensive fertile countries; but as
yet very little is known of these regions. Ships come up the Willamette
river within a few miles of Oregon city. Concerning the road for wagons
commenced south of Mount Hood, and which is to be completed this summer,
to be in readiness for the next emigration, you are better acquainted
than myself.
I am happy to recommend to future emigrants your directions and advice
as to the best mode of traveling; number of wagons desirable to travel
together; quantity of provisions required for each person; best route;
distance to be traveled each day. You will also be able to give the
prices for which the Hudson Bay company sells flour, at Forts Hall {177}
and Bois, and for which it is brought from the Willamette to the Dalles
and sold.
You are acquainted with the fact that the Mission station at this place,
and at Waiilatpu, have been in the habit of furnishing provisions to
immigrants. We are willing to do so as long as there are no other
sources of supplies in this vicinity, and therefore seems a duty. But
our object in the country is to civilize and Christianize the Indian
tribes among whom we are located. We are stewards of the property of
others. We receive no salaries, but simply our living and clothing. We
therefore feel it to be our duty to endeavour to make the receipts for
provisions sold, net their expenses. For this end, Mr. Gilbert, a
gentleman from New York, has taken charge of the secular affairs of this
station, and will furnish provisions to immigrants on the most
reasonable terms. He will give you their probable prices, and the names
of such things as will be taken in exchange. You have seen the quantity
and quality of flour and beef at this place, as also at Waiilatpu.
Yours very sincerely,
H. H. SPALDING.
P. S. During last season, commencing 22d of January, I collected and
preserved over two thousand different species of flowers, plants and
grasses,[228] many of which I think are rare, but I am no botanist.
ORGANIC LAWS OF OREGON (WITH AMENDMENTS)
_The Legislative Committee recommend that the following Laws be
adopted._
PREAMBLE
WE, the people of Oregon Territory, for purposes of mutual
protection, and to secure peace and prosperity among ourselves,
agree to adopt the following laws and regulations, until such time
as the United States of America extend their jurisdiction over us.
Be it enacted, therefore, by the free citizens of Oregon Territory, that
the said territory, for purposes of temporary government, be divided
into not less than three nor more than five districts, subject to be
extended to a greater number when an increase of population shall
require.
For the purpose of fixing the principles of civil and religious liberty,
as the basis of all laws and constitutions of government that may
hereafter be adopted--
_Be it enacted_, That the following articles be considered articles of
compact among the free citizens of this territory:
ARTICLE I
§ 1. No person demeaning himself in a peaceable and orderly manner,
shall ever be molested on account of his mode of worship or religious
sentiments.
{180} § 2. The inhabitants of said territory shall always be entitled to
the benefits of the writ of habeas corpus and trial by jury, of a
proportionate representation of the people in the legislature, and of
judicial proceedings, according to the course of common law. All persons
shall be bailable, unless for capital offences, where the proof shall be
evident or the presumption great. All fines shall be moderate, and no
cruel or unusual punishments shall be inflicted. No man shall be
deprived of his liberty but by the judgment of his peers, or the law of
the land; and should the public exigencies make it necessary for the
common preservation to take any person's property, or to demand his
particular services, full compensation shall be made for the same; and
in the just preservation of rights and property, it is understood and
declared that no law ought ever to be made, or have force in said
territory, that shall, in any manner whatever, interfere with or affect
private contracts or engagements, "bona fide" and without fraud
previously formed.
§ 3. Religion, morality and knowledge being necessary to good government
and the happiness of mankind, schools and the means of education shall
forever be encouraged. The utmost good faith shall always be observed
towards the Indians; their lands and property shall never be taken from
them without their consent; and in their property, rights or liberty
they shall never be invaded or disturbed, unless in just and lawful
wars, authorised by the representatives of the people; but laws founded
in justice and humanity shall, from time to time, be made for preventing
injustice being done to them, and for preserving peace and friendship
with them.
§ 4. There shall be no slavery nor involuntary servitude in said
territory otherwise than for the punishment of crimes, whereof the
party shall have been duly convicted.
§ 5. No person shall be deprived of the right of bearing arms in his own
defence; no unreasonable searches or seizures shall be granted; the
freedom of the press shall not be restrained; {181} no person shall be
twice tried for the same offence; nor the people deprived of the right
of peaceably assembling and discussing any matter they may think proper;
nor shall the right of petition ever be denied.
§ 6. The powers of the government shall be divided into three distinct
departments--the legislative, executive, and judicial; and no person,
belonging to one of these departments, shall exercise any of the powers
properly belonging to either of the others, except in cases herein
directed or permitted.
ARTICLE II
§ 1. The legislative power shall be vested in a House of
Representatives, which shall consist of not less than thirteen nor more
than sixty-one members, whose numbers shall not be increased more than
five at any one session, to be elected by the qualified electors at the
annual election, giving to each district a representation in proportion
to its population, (excluding Indians,) and the said members shall
reside in the district for which they shall be chosen; and in case of
vacancy by death, resignation or otherwise, the executive shall issue
his writ to the district where such vacancy has occurred, and cause a
new election to be held, giving sufficient notice at least ten days
previously, of the time and place of holding said election.
§ 2. The House of Representatives, when assembled, shall choose a
speaker and its other officers, be judges of the qualifications and
election of its members, and sit upon its own adjournment from day to
day. Two-thirds of the House shall constitute a quorum to transact
business, but a smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may be
authorised by law to compel the attendance of absent members.
§ 3. The House may determine the rules of its proceedings, punish its
members for disorderly behavior, and with the concurrence of two-thirds,
expel a member, but not a second time for the same offence; and shall
have all powers necessary for {182} a legislature of a temporary
government, not in contravention with the restrictions imposed in this
Organic Law.
§ 4. The House of Representatives shall, from time to time, fix the
salaries of the different officers appointed or elected under this
compact, provided the pay of no officer shall be altered during the term
of his service; nor shall the pay of the House be increased by any law
taking effect during the session at which such alteration is made.
§ 5. The House of Representatives shall have the sole power of
impeaching; three-fourths of all the members must concur in an
impeachment. The governor and all civil officers under these articles of
compact, shall be liable to impeachment for treason, bribery, or any
high crime or misdemeanor in office. Judgment in such cases shall not
extend further than removal from office, and disqualification to hold
any office of honor, trust or profit under this compact; but the party
convicted may be dealt with according to law.
§ 6. The House of Representatives shall have power to lay out the
territory into suitable districts, and apportion the representation in
their own body. They shall have power to pass laws for raising a revenue
either by the levying and collecting of taxes, or the imposing license
on merchandize, ferries, or other objects--to open roads and canals,
either by the levying a road tax, or the chartering of companies; to
regulate the intercourse of the people with the Indian tribes; to
establish post offices and post roads; to declare war, suppress
insurrection or repel invasion; to provide for the organizing, arming,
and disciplining the militia, and for calling forth the militia to
execute the laws of Oregon; to pass laws to regulate the introduction,
manufacture, or sale of ardent spirits; to regulate the currency and
internal police of the country; to create inferior offices necessary and
not provided for by these articles of compact; and generally to pass
such laws to promote the general welfare of the people of Oregon, not
contrary to the spirit of this instrument; and all powers not hereby
expressly delegated, {183} remain with the people. The House of
Representatives shall convene annually on the first Tuesday in December,
at such place as may be provided by law, and shall, upon their first
meeting after the adoption of this instrument of compact, proceed to
elect and define the duties of a secretary, recorder, treasurer,
auditor, marshal, or other officers necessary to carry into effect the
provisions of this compact.
§ 7. The executive power shall be vested in one person, elected by the
qualified voters at the annual election, who shall have power to fill
vacancies; to remit fines and forfeitures; to grant pardons and
reprieves for offences against the laws of the territory; to call out
the military force of the country to repel invasion or suppress
insurrection; to take care that the laws are faithfully executed, and to
recommend such laws as he may consider necessary to the representatives
of the people for their action. Every bill which shall have been passed
by the House of Representatives, shall, before it becomes a law, be
presented to the governor for his approbation. If he approve, he shall
sign it; if not, he shall return it, with his objections, to the House,
and the House shall cause the objections to be entered at large on its
journals, and shall proceed to reconsider the bill; if, after such
reconsideration, a majority of two-thirds of the House shall agree to
pass the same, it shall become a law. In such cases the vote shall be
taken by ayes and noes, and be entered upon the journal. If any bill
shall not be returned by the governor to the House of Representatives
within three days (Sundays excepted) after it shall have been presented
to him, the same shall become a law in like manner as if the governor
had signed it, unless the House of Representatives, by its adjournment,
shall prevent its return; in which case it shall not become a law. The
governor shall continue in office two years, and until his successor is
duly elected and qualified; and in case of the office becoming vacant by
death, resignation, or otherwise, the secretary shall exercise the
duties of the office until the vacancy shall be filled by {184}
election. The governor shall receive the sum of dollars per annum, as
full compensation for his services, which sum may be increased or
diminished at any time by law, provided the salary of no governor shall
be altered during his term of service. The governor shall have power to
convene the legislature on extraordinary occasions.