during this day's travel were literally covered with buffalo, tens of
thousands were to be seen at one view; antelope and black-tailed deer
were seen in great abundance, and a few elk and common deer. One
panther, and hundreds of wolves were also seen. We found the river too
high to ford. Soon after encamping, snow commenced falling, which
continued all night, but melted as it reached the ground. The grazing
on the bottom was excellent, the grass being about six inches high.
This was the best grass we had seen since leaving Burnt river.
On the 3d we succeeded in finding a ford, and in the evening we crossed.
On the 4th we reached Deer creek, having traveled about thirty miles. On
the way we saw a band of Indians whom we supposed to be of the Crow
nation, and as they are generally for fight, we prepared to give them a
warm reception; but it seemed that they were as fearful of us, as we
were of them.[213] They were soon out of sight. After traveling about
five miles, we saw them drawn up into line two miles from the road. As
they were at a respectful distance, we did not molest them. We however
kept a sharp look out, and at night were cautious in selecting camp
ground. The grass was good, and our animals fared well.
{137} On the 5th we traveled about fifteen miles, and encamped on
Mike's-head creek.[214] Here we found two trappers, who had been out
about three weeks. They accompanied us to Fort Laramie, which we reached
on the 8th of June. In the morning H. Smith, one of our party, in
catching a mule was thrown, and his shoulder dislocated.[215] We
attempted to set it, but could not succeed. He traveled on to the fort,
but in great misery. We remained here until the afternoon of the 10th.
Mr. Smith's shoulder was so much injured that he could not travel. He
concluded to remain at the fort a few days; three men were to stay with
him, and the rest of us had made arrangements for starting, when a
company of Oregon emigrants came in sight. We awaited their arrival, and
had the gratification of hearing from the States, it being the first
news we had received since leaving our homes. A part of us remained a
few hours to give them an opportunity of writing to their friends; while
five of the party took the road. In the evening we traveled about eight
miles, and encamped.
We continued for a distance of two hundred miles meeting companies of
from six to forty wagons, until the number reached five hundred and
forty-one wagons, and averaging about five souls to each wagon. They
were generally in good health and fine spirits. Two hundred and twelve
wagons were bound for California; but I have since learned that many of
those who had designed to go to California had changed their destination
and were going to Oregon.[216]
At Ash hollow we met a company who had lost many of their cattle and
horses; but they were still going on.
A short distance below the forks of Platte, we met a company of
forty-one wagons, under the command of a Mr. Smith, which company had
lost about one hundred and fifty head of cattle; they were encamped, and
parties were out hunting cattle.[217] We remained with them a short
time, and then passed on. This was on the 18th of June. Two of Smith's
company had taken the back track in search of a band of their cattle,
which had traveled nearly forty miles on the return to the States. Near
night, and after we had encamped, two others of the company came up in
search of the two men who had started in the morning. We had also met a
boy belonging to their company, who had been in search of cattle, but
had found none; and as it was nearly night, and he was about thirty
miles from their camp, we induced him to remain with us through the
night.
{138} The two men who had arrived after we had encamped, concluded to
continue their search until they found the two other men who had
preceded them. Accordingly after taking some refreshments, they mounted
and followed on. Soon after dark, they came running their horses up to
our camp, one of them having behind him one of the men who had started
out in the morning. They had proceeded from our camp about seven or
eight miles, when rising over a small swell in the prairie, they
discovered a few head of cattle, and saw ten or twelve Indians, a part
of them engaged in catching a horse which Mr. Trimble (one of the men
who had started out in the morning) had been riding, and some were
engaged in stripping the clothes from Mr. Harrison, the other of the
men. The men who had left our camp put whip to their horses, and ran
towards the Indians, hallooing and yelling. The Indians seeing them
approach, and probably supposing that there was a large company, left
Harrison, and ran under a bluff, but they took the horses with them.
Harrison put on his clothes and mounted behind Bratten, (one of the men
who had come to their rescue,) stating that the Indians had killed
Trimble,[218] and as none of the emigrants had fire-arms, the Indians
would soon return upon them. They then came to our camp. Harrison stated
that he and Trimble had traveled nearly all day with that portion of our
party who had started from the fort in advance of us, and near night had
found five head of their cattle, with which they were returning to the
company; and as they were traveling leisurely along, about dusk, whilst
in a small hollow, ten or twelve Indians came suddenly upon them, seized
his horse, and endeavored to get hold of Trimble's horse, but he jumped
away, and ran his horse off. Harrison in the mean time had dismounted,
and three of the Indians rifled him of his clothes. On looking to see
what had become of Trimble, he saw him riding in a circuitous manner
towards the place where Harrison was; at this instant some half dozen
arrows were let fly at Trimble by the Indians, some of which took
effect. He leaned a little forward, his horse at the time jumping; at
that instant the crack of a gun was heard, and Trimble fell from his
horse upon his face, and did not move afterwards. His horse ran round
for some minutes, the Indians trying to catch him; and at that instant
Bratten and his friend came up.
Several of our party, supposing that we had passed all danger, had sold
their arms to the emigrants, and we had but five {139} rifles in the
company. It was quite dark, and there would be but little prospect of
finding Trimble, if we attempted a search. We therefore remained in camp
until morning. About eleven o'clock at night we dispatched two persons
back to inform the company of what had occurred, with a request that a
force might be sent, which would be able to chastise the Indians, if
found.
Early in the morning we packed up and traveled to the spot where the
murder had been committed. We found there Trimble's hat, whip, and
pocket knife; and several large pools of blood where he had fallen from
his horse, and where the Indians had evidently stripped him. We also
found several arrows, two of which appeared to have struck him; but
nothing could be found of his body. The river Platte was about a quarter
of a mile distant; we searched the shore diligently, but could see no
sign. As we approached the spot a gun was fired on a large island
opposite, but we saw no Indians. Eight beds in the grass near where the
attack was made, showed the manner in which the Indians had been
concealed.
It is highly probable that the Indians had driven the cattle off, and
that some of the Indians concealed themselves, and as Trimble and
Harrison had no fire-arms, and carried long ox-whips, they could be
easily distinguished as cattle hunters, and the Indians knowing that
the white men must come back, selected a favorable spot, and attacked
them as above related. The probability is, that had Trimble and Harrison
been armed, they would not have been molested.
We remained upon the ground until late in the afternoon, waiting the
arrival of the force from the company. We finally began to despair of
their coming, and feared that the two men whom we had sent back had been
cut off; and as we had two of the company with us, and one of our party
was back, we packed up and took the back track, and after traveling
about five miles, we discovered a band of their cattle crossing the
river a mile above us. We made to the shore, when the cattle turned down
the river, in the direction of the head of the big island. We judged
that the Indians had been driving the cattle, but upon our approach had
left them. The river was quite shoal, and Buckley waded out and turned
them to the shore. There were in this band twenty-one head of work
cattle; two of them carried marks of the arrow. After traveling three
miles farther, we espied the party coming to our assistance, but it
consisted of only seven persons.
{140} Mr. Trimble had left a wife and four children. She had sent by the
party a request that we might come back, and allow her and family to
travel with us to the U. States. We accordingly all took the road to the
company's camp, (driving the cattle) which we reached at day-break on
the morning of the 20th June. Here we remained until the afternoon. By
the persuasion of her friends, Mrs. Trimble concluded to continue her
journey to Oregon. But there were four families who had lost so many of
their cattle, that they were unable to proceed on their journey. They
had four wagons, and only five yoke of cattle, and some of them were
very small. They wished us to travel with them through the Pawnee
country, as the Pawnees were the perpetrators of the act which had
caused them so much difficulty. We accordingly traveled with them until
the 30th, when we left them, and resumed our journey towards home.
On the morning of the 21st we were joined by Mr. Smith, and the three
men who had been left at the fort. We traveled on rapidly day and night,
barely giving our animals time to rest. The weather was becoming warm;
the flies and musquitoes were very annoying. We arrived at the Mission
or Agency on the morning of the 6th of July.[219] Here are extensive
farms, and a most delightful country. The first view of cultivated
fields, and marks of civilization, brought simultaneous shouts from the
whole party. Our troubles and toils were all forgotten.
On the 7th of July, at 10 o'clock A. M., we arrived at the St. Joseph's
mission, where we all hoped to meet with friends.[220] We had been so
long among savages, that we resembled them much in appearance; but when
attired in new apparel, and shaved as became white men, we hardly knew
each other. We had been long in each other's company; had undergone
hardships and privations together; had passed through many dangers,
relying upon each other for aid and protection. Attachments had grown
up, which when we were about to separate were sensibly felt; but as we
were yet separated from our families, where still stronger ties were
felt, each one took his course, and in a few hours our party was
scattered, and each traveling in a different direction.
Those of us who had mules found ready sales; but as the horses were much
reduced in flesh, they could not be disposed of. Our horses had stood
the trip remarkably well, until within two hundred and fifty miles of
Missouri. But the flies {141} had so annoyed them, the weather being
warm, and the grass of an inferior quality, that they had failed much. I
had five horses; the one which I had taken from home was quite lame, and
I left him at St. Joseph's; the other four were Indian horses, and Mr.
Buckley agreed to take them by land, across Missouri and Illinois, and
home; but he was unsuccessful, and arrived with only one of them.
I took steamboat passage to St. Louis[221] and Cincinnati, and thence by
stage to Laurel, Indiana, where I arrived on the 23d of July; having
been gone from home one year three months and one week. I had the
pleasure of finding my family enjoying good health.
NECESSARY OUTFITS FOR EMIGRANTS TRAVELING TO OREGON
For burthen wagons, light four horse or heavy two horse wagons are the
size commonly used. They should be made of the best material, well
seasoned, and should in all cases have falling tongues. The tire should
not be less than one and three fourth inches wide, but may be
advantageously used three inches; two inches, however, is the most
common width. In fastening on the tire, bolts should be used instead of
nails; it should be at least 5/8 or 3/4 inches thick. Hub boxes for the
hubs should be about four inches. The skeins should be well steeled. The
Mormon fashioned wagon bed is the best. They are usually made straight,
with side boards about 16 inches wide, and a projection outward of four
inches on each side, and then another side board of ten or twelve
inches; in this last, set the bows for covers, which should always be
double. Boxes for carrying effects should be so constructed as to
correspond in height with the offset in the wagon bed, as this gives a
smooth surface to sleep upon.
Ox teams are more extensively used than any others. Oxen stand the trip
much better, and are not so liable to be stolen by the Indians, and are
much less trouble. Cattle are generally allowed to go at large, when not
hitched to the wagons; whilst horses and mules must always be staked up
at night. Oxen can procure food in many places where horses cannot, and
in much less time. Cattle that have been raised in Illinois or
Missouri, stand the trip better than those raised in Indiana or Ohio; as
they have been accustomed to eating the prairie grass, upon which they
must wholly rely while on the road. {142} Great care should be taken in
selecting cattle; they should be from four to six years old, tight and
heavy made.
For those who fit out but one wagon, it is not safe to start with less
than four yoke of oxen, as they are liable to get lame, have sore necks,
or to stray away. One team thus fitted up may start from Missouri with
twenty-five hundred pounds and as each day's rations make the load that
much lighter, before they reach any rough road, their loading is much
reduced. Persons should recollect that every thing in the outfit should
be as light as the required strength will permit; no useless trumpery
should be taken. The loading should consist of provisions and apparel, a
necessary supply of cooking fixtures, a few tools, &c. No great
speculation can be made in buying cattle and driving them through to
sell; but as the prices of oxen and cows are much higher in Oregon than
in the States, nothing is lost in having a good supply of them, which
will enable the emigrant to wagon through many articles that are
difficult to be obtained in Oregon. Each family should have a few cows,
as the milk can be used the entire route, and they are often convenient
to put to the wagon to relieve oxen. They should be so selected that
portions of them would come in fresh upon the road. Sheep can also be
advantageously driven. American horses and mares always command high
prices, and with careful usage can be taken through; but if used to
wagons or carriages, their loading should be light. Each family should
be provided with a sheet-iron stove, with boiler; a platform can easily
be constructed for carrying it at the hind end of the wagon; and as it
is frequently quite windy, and there is often a scarcity of wood, the
stove is very convenient. Each family should also be provided with a
tent, and to it should be attached good strong cords to fasten it down.
The cooking fixtures generally used are of sheet iron; a dutch oven and
skillet of cast metal are very essential. Plates, cups, &c., should be
of tin ware, as queens-ware is much heavier and liable to break, and
consumes much time in packing up. A reflector is sometimes very useful.
Families should each have two churns, one for carrying sweet and one for
sour milk. They should also have one eight or ten gallon keg for
carrying water, one axe, one shovel, two or three augers, one hand saw,
and if a farmer he should be provided with one crosscut saw and a few
plough moulds, as it is difficult getting such articles. When I left the
country, ploughs cost from twenty-five to forty dollars each. A good
supply of ropes for {143} tying up horses and catching cattle, should
also be taken. Every person should be well supplied with boots and
shoes, and in fact with every kind of clothing. It is also well to be
supplied with at least one feather bed, and a good assortment of
bedding. There are no tame geese in the country, but an abundance of
wild ones; yet it is difficult procuring a sufficient quantity of
feathers for a bed. The Muscovy is the only tame duck in the country.
Each male person should have at least one rifle gun, and a shot gun is
also very useful for wild fowl and small game, of which there is an
abundance. The best sized calibre for the mountains is from thirty-two
to fifty-six to the pound; but one of from sixty to eighty, or even
less, is best when in the lower settlements. The buffalo seldom range
beyond the South Pass, and never west of Green river. The larger game
are elk, deer, antelope, mountain sheep or bighorn, and bear. The small
game are hare, rabbit, grouse, sage hen, pheasant, quail, &c. A good
supply of ammunition is essential.
In laying in a supply of provisions for the journey, persons will
doubtless be governed, in some degree, by their means; but there are a
few essentials that all will require.
For each adult, there should be two hundred pounds of flour, thirty
pounds of pilot bread, seventy-five pounds of bacon, ten pounds of rice,
five pounds of coffee, two pounds of tea, twenty-five pounds of sugar,
half a bushel of dried beans, one bushel of dried fruit, two pounds of
saleratus, ten pounds of salt, half a bushel of corn meal; and it is
well to have a half bushel of corn, parched and ground; a small keg of
vinegar should also be taken. To the above may be added as many good
things as the means of the person will enable him to carry; for whatever
is good at home, is none the less so on the road. The above will be
ample for the journey; but should an additional quantity be taken, it
can readily be disposed of in the mountains and at good prices, not for
cash, but for robes, dressed skins, buckskin pants, moccasins, &c. It is
also well for families to be provided with medicines. It is seldom
however, that emigrants are sick; but sometimes eating too freely of
fresh buffalo meat causes diarrhoea, and unless it be checked soon
prostrates the individual, and leaves him a fit subject for disease.
The time usually occupied in making the trip from Missouri to Oregon
city is about five months; but with the aid of a person who has traveled
the route with an emigrating company the trip can be performed in about
four months.
{144} Much injury is done to teams in racing them, endeavoring to pass
each other. Emigrants should make an every day business of
traveling--resting upon the same ground two nights is not good policy,
as the teams are likely to ramble too far. Getting into large companies
should be avoided, as they are necessarily compelled to move more
tardily. From ten to twenty-five wagons is a sufficient number to travel
with safety. The advance and rear companies should not be less than
twenty; but between, it may be safe to go with six. The Indians are very
annoying on account of their thieving propensities, but if well watched,
they would seldom put them into practice. Persons should always avoid
rambling far from camp unarmed, or in too small parties; Indians will
sometimes seek such opportunities to rob a man of what little effects he
has about him; and if he attempts to get away from them with his
property, they will sometimes shoot him.
There are several points along the Missouri where emigrants have been in
the practice of fitting out. Of these Independence, St. Joseph, and
Council Bluffs, are the most noted. For those emigrating from Ohio,
Indiana, Illinois and northern Missouri, Iowa and Michigan, I think St.
Joseph the best point; as by taking that route the crossing of several
streams (which at the early season we travel are sometimes very high)
is avoided. Outfits may be had at this point, as readily as at any other
along the river. Work cattle can be bought in its vicinity for from
twenty-five to thirty dollars per yoke, cows, horses, &c., equally
cheap.
Emigrants should endeavor to arrive at St. Joseph early in April, so as
to be in readiness to take up the line of march by the middle of April.
Companies, however, have often started as late as the tenth of May; but
in such cases they seldom arrive in Oregon until after the rainy season
commences in the Cascade range of mountains.
Those residing in northern Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, &c., who
contemplate traveling by land to the place of rendezvous, should start
in time to give their teams at least ten days rest. Ox teams, after
traveling four or five hundred miles in the states, at that season of
the year, would be unfit to perform a journey across the mountains; but
doubtless they might be exchanged for others, at or near the rendezvous.
Farmers would do well to take along a good supply of horse gears.
Mechanics should take such tools as are easily carried; as there are but
few in the country, and those are held at exorbitant {145} prices. Every
family should lay in a good supply of school books for their children.
In case of an emergency, flour can be bought at Fort Hall, and Fort
Bois, two trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Company, at twenty dollars
per hundred; and by forwarding word to Spalding's mission, on the
Kooskooskee, they will pack out flour to Fort Bois, at ten dollars per
hundred, and to the Grand Round at eight dollars, and will take in
exchange dry goods, groceries, &c.; but at Forts Hall and Bois, the
company will take nothing in payment but cash or cattle. At Dr.
Whitman's station, flour can be bought at five dollars per hundred, corn
meal at four dollars, beef at six and seven cents per pound, potatoes,
fifty cents per bushel. It is proper to observe that the flour at
Spalding's and Whitman's stations will be unbolted. Emigrants however,
should be cautious, and lay in a sufficient supply to last them
through.
WORDS USED IN THE CHINOOK JARGON
This is a tongue spoken by a few in each of the tribes residing in the
middle and lower divisions of Oregon. It is also used by the French, and
nearly all the old settlers in the country.
_Aach_ _Ekik_ _Hu-e-hu_
Sister Fish-hook Swap, exchange
_Aha_ _Elitah_ _Hol_
Yes Slave Drag, or pull
_Alka_ _Esick_ _Ilips_
Future, by and by Paddle First
_Alta_ _Esil_ _Ith-lu-el_, or _Ituel_
Present, now Corn Meat, flesh
_Ala_ _Geleech_ _I-yak_
I wonder Grease Quick, or hurry
_Ankote_ _Halo_ _Il-a-he_
Past time None Soil, dirt
_Chawko_ _Hankachim_ _Ichwet_
Come Handkerchief Bear
_Chee_ _Hous_ _Is-kum_
New House Take
_Chinkamin_ _How_ _In-a-ti_
Iron, chain Let us Overdress
_Chuck_ _Hoel-hoel_ _Ith-lu-k-ma_
Water Mouse Gamble
_Deob_ _High-you_ _I-wa_
Satan Quantity, many Beaver
_Delie_ _High-you-k-wah_ _Ips-wet_
Dry Ring Hide
_Ekih_ _Hul-u-e-ma_ _Ik-ta_
Brother-in-law Strange, different What
_Kah_ _K-wathen_ _Kilaps_
Where Bell Turn over
_K-u-ten_ _K-macks_ _Klips_
Horse Dog Upset
_Kaw-lo-ke-lo_ _Klugh_ _Ko-el_
Goose Split, or Plough Cold
_Ka-luck_ _Ko-pet_ _Kap-wah_
Swan Done, finished Alike
_K-puet_ _Kop-po_ _Kon-a-maxt_
Needle Older brother Both
_Kot-suck_ _Kow_ _Kla-hum_
Middle Is to tie Good-bye
_Kap-o_ _K-wat_ _Kla-hi-you_
Coat Hit How do you do
_Ka-nim_ _Kop-shut_ _Kaw-a-nassim_
Canoe Broken Always
_Ka-ta_ _Ko_ _Kla-ha-na_
Why Arrived Out
_Kap-su-alla_ _Kim-to_ _Klim-in-wit_
Theft, steal Behind A falsehood
_K-liten_ _Kollo_ _Krap-po_
Lead Fence Toad
_Kaw-kaw_ _Kutt_ _Klose_
Crow Hard Good
_Klat-a-wah_ _Klimin_ _Klas-ko_
Go, Walk Fine Them, those
_Kul-a-kulla_ _Kle-il_ _Ka-so_
Fowl Black Rum
_Kum-tux_ _Ka-was_ _Ko-pa_
Know, or understand Afraid There
_Ke-a-wale_ _Kom-suck_ _Kit-lo_
Love Beads Kettle
_Ka-wah-we_ _Ko-ko-well_ _Klone-ass_
All Eel I do not understand
_Klow-e-wah_ _Klaps_ _Klop-sta_
Slow Find Who
_K-wallen_ _Kow-ne-aw_ _Klouch-man_
The ear How many Female
_Kee-kool_ _La-sel_ _Le-lu_
Down Saddle Panther
_Lepo-lo_ _Le-lo-im_ _Le-pul_
Pan Sharp Chickens
_Le-por-shet_ _Le-poim_ _Lecorset_
Fork Apple Trunk
_Lehash_ _La-bush_ _Laport_
Axe Mouth Door
_Leg-win_ _Le-da_ _Le-pip_
Saw Teeth Pipe
_Lima_ _Le-ku_ _Lo-lo_
The hand Neck Carry, or tote
_Lita_ _Le-mora_ _Leb-ya_
Head Wild Old woman
_Le-pe-a_ _Lashimney_ _La-lure_
Feet Chimney Hoe
_Lo-ma-las_ _Lemitten_ _La-cope_
Molasses Mitten White
_Lemon-to_ _La-ha-la_ _La-cre-me_
Sheep Feel Yellow
_Lavest_ _Le-le_ _Mas-a-tro_
Jacket, or vest A long time Bad
_La-ep_ _Las-well_ _Met-lite_
Rope Silk Residence, Sitting
down, &c.
_Lep-lash_ _La-tem_
Boards Table _Mal-ha-na_
As, in the river; or,
_Lep-wa_ _Lep-o-lip_ push off the boat
Peas Boil
_Lep-well_ _Le-sit-well_ _Man_
Skillet Stars Male