Hot Springs, near which the road passes.[79] These springs are in a
constant state of ebullition. They number from five to six, extending
over a surface of two to three yards, all uniting and forming a stream
of one yard in width and about three inches deep, running quite rapid.
The water is sufficiently hot for culinary purposes. About fifteen rods
off, approaching the mountain, which is half a mile distant, are similar
springs, the waters of which flow into a reservoir a short distance
below. An ox, belonging to our party, appeared desirous to test the
qualities of the water afforded by these springs. His owners, seeing his
inclination, attempted to arrest his steps, but failed; when he arrived
at the brink of one of them, and stuck his nose in, preparatory to
indulging in a draught of the delicious nectar, he immediately wheeled,
and made the welkin ring by his bellowing; kicking and running, he
showed he was evidently displeased with himself. Our camp was on Barrel
creek bottom, which is very narrow.
_August 28._ We traveled about eighteen miles, crossing several running
branches. The road is near the base of the mountain; wild sage and
grease wood found in plenty. Encamped on Charlotte's fork, a small
branch.
_August 29._ We traveled about eighteen miles, which brought us to Bois
river, a stream of forty or fifty yards in {49} width, and abounding in
salmon; its banks are lined with Balm of Gilead timber.[80] The bottoms
here are two or three miles wide, and covered with grass.
_August 30._ We traveled about eleven miles. The road is sometimes on
bottom, at others, on bluff. The Indians are very numerous along this
stream; they have a large number of horses; clothing is in much demand;
for articles of clothing costing in the States ten or twelve dollars, a
very good horse can be obtained.
_August 31._ We traveled about 14 miles. The road pursues its course
down the valley of the Bois river.
_September 1._ We traveled about thirteen miles. Two miles from camp we
crossed Bois river. Some of the bottoms are covered with grass, others
with wild sage and grease wood. The road was very dusty. There is not
much timber along the stream, but great quantities of brush.
_September 2._ We reached Fort Bois. This is a trading post of the
Hudson's Bay Company, established upon the northern side of Snake or
Lewis river, and one mile below the mouth of Bois river. This fort was
erected for the purpose of recruiting, or as an intermediate post, more
than as a trading point. It is built of the same materials, and modeled
after Fort Hall, but is of a smaller compass. Portions of the bottoms
around it afford grazing; but, in a general view, the surrounding
country is barren.[81]
North of this fort is an extensive plain, which has an extremely
unfertile appearance; but, I am informed, that during the winter and
spring months it affords good grazing. At this fort they have a quantity
of flour in store, brought from OREGON CITY, for which they demanded
twenty dollars per cwt., in cash; a few of our company being in extreme
want, were obliged to purchase at this exorbitant price. At this place
the road crosses the river; the ford is about four hundred yards below
the fort, and strikes across to the head of an island, then bears to the
left to the southern bank; the water is quite deep, but not rapid; it
swam some of our smallest work cattle; the bottom is solid and smooth.
We cut poles, and laid them across the top of our wagon-beds, piling our
loading on them; answering a twofold purpose--preventing our loading
from damage, as also by its weight keeping the wagons steady and
guarding them against floating. In about three hours we effected our
passage in safety, but few of the goods getting wet. We went up the
bottom a half mile, and there encamped; {50} driving our cattle on an
island hard by, to graze. Fort Bois is about two hundred and eighty
miles below Fort Hall, following the wagon road; but by crossing the
river at Fort Hall, and going down on the north side, the distance would
be lessened, as the river bears off south, and then north; and judging
from the appearance of the country, I think a road may be found, equal,
if not better than the one on the south side; and, I doubt not, the
grazing will be found better.[82]
_September 3._ We traveled fifteen miles, to Malheur, or Malore, as it
is sometimes called: here is a good camp. This is a stream of about ten
yards in width, having its source in a range of mountains to the
southwest, and pursuing its meanderings through a succession of hills,
sage and sand plains, and occasionally a fertile bottom, until it
arrives at Snake river, into which it empties. A few miles below Fort
Bois, its course from its source is north of east. Along its banks, near
to where the road crosses it, are a number of hot springs; they are of
the same temperature of those between the two crossings of Snake
river.[83] Here we met Dr. White, a sub-Indian agent, accompanied by
three others, on their way from OREGON to the STATES.[84]
At this place are two trails; the fork is in the bottom above the
crossing of the creek, and there is a possibility of emigrants pursuing
the wrong route. I do not deem it amiss to give some particulars in
relation to this road. Mr. Meek, who had been engaged as our pilot, but
had previously gone in advance of the companies who had employed him,
and who had after reaching Fort Hall, fitted up a party to pilot through
to Oregon, informed the emigrants that he could, by taking up this
stream to near its source, and then striking across the plains, so as to
intersect the old road near to the mouth of Deshutes or Falls river,
save about one hundred and fifty miles travel; also that he was
perfectly familiar with the country through which the proposed route
lay, as he had traveled it; that no difficulty or danger attended its
travel. He succeeded in inducing about two hundred families to pursue
this route; they accordingly directed their course to the left, up this
creek, about ten days previous to our arrival at the forks.
_September 4._ We traveled about twenty miles; ten miles brought us to a
sulphur spring, and ten miles more to Birch creek, where we
encamped.[85] The country is considerably rolling, and much of it
barren: no timber found.
_September 5._ We traveled about eight miles; three miles {51} brought
us to Snake river, and five more to Burnt river. The road is hilly but
good; the country mountainous. Here is a good camp.
_September 6._ We made about twelve miles. The road is up Burnt river,
and the most difficult road we have encountered since we started. The
difficulties arise from the frequent crossings of the creek, which is
crooked, narrow and stony. We were often compelled to follow the road,
in its windings for some distance, over high, sidelong and stony ridges,
and frequently through thickets of brush. The stream is about ten or
twelve yards in width, and is generally rapid. The hills are high, and
covered with grass.[86]
_September 7._ This day we traveled about twelve miles. The road
exceeded in roughness that of yesterday. Sometimes it pursued its course
along the bottom of the creek, at other times it wound its way along the
sides of the mountains, so sidelong as to require the weight of two or
more men on the upper side of the wagons to preserve their equilibrium.
The creek and road are so enclosed by the high mountains, as to afford
but little room to pass along, rendering it in some places almost
impassable. Many of the mountains viewed from here seem almost
perpendicular, and of course present a barren surface. The eye is
occasionally relieved by a few scrubby cedars; but along the creek is
found birch, bitter cottonwood, alder, &c., in quantity, and several
kinds of brush and briars, so impenetrable as to preclude ingress. The
road pursues its course through these thickets, the axe having been
employed; but it is so very narrow as almost to prevent travel.
A little digging, and the use of the axe, united with the erection of
bridges, would make this a very good road. At first view this road
appeared to us impassable, and so difficult of travel, as almost to
deter us from the attempt; but knowing that those who had preceded us
had surmounted the difficulties, encouraged us to persevere. It required
much carefulness, and the exercise of skill on the part of our drivers
to pass along and avoid the dangers of the way. We pursued our route
without any loss, with the exception of that attending the breakage of
two wagon tongues, done in crossing some deep ravines. We also
experienced difficulty in finding our cattle, which had strayed away.
Five miles from camp the road turns up a spring branch to the right,
which we followed two miles, crossing it very frequently; it then turns
up the mountain of the left, until it strikes another ravine. We
followed {52} up this for one mile, where water makes its appearance.
Here is found a good camp. The road then takes to the left up the hill,
and then down to a dry branch: here is a good camp, one mile to running
water. This portion of the road is solid and of good travel.
_September 8._ This day we traveled about fourteen miles. Two miles
brought us to the creek again; the bottom here is of some extent. We
followed this bottom for the distance of one mile; the road then led up
the right hand branch, crossing several small branches, taking up a
ravine to the left over a ridge, until it reaches the fork of the river;
pursues its route up this river some six or seven miles, crossing it
twice, then directs its course to the right, through a narrow ravine
over the mountain, then strikes Dry Branch; we followed up this branch
to running water, and near to a scrubby pine; here we encamped. The road
has been solid and good. The hills and valleys appear well covered with
grass.
_September 9._ This day we traveled about sixteen miles. The road runs
up the branch for one mile, then turns to the left over the hill,
pursuing a very winding course for some thirteen miles, until it reaches
a slough in Powder river bottoms. Powder river is a stream of some eight
or ten yards in width, having its source in the high range of mountains
on our left, which mountains in many places are covered with snow.[87]
An abundance of pine timber is found covering the sides of these
mountains, sometimes extending far down into the bottoms, which here are
between six and seven miles in width. The soil is fertile and would
undoubtedly yield abundantly.
To our right, at the distance of fifteen or twenty miles, is presented a
high range of mountains, their base covered with grass, their sides with
heavy pine timber. At their summit they are entirely destitute of
vegetation: some of these are very lofty, their peaks present a very
lustrous appearance, resembling the snow mountains. This shining,
dazzling appearance they possess, is derived I think from the material
of which they are composed, being a kind of white clay.
The valley between Powder river and this range is very rolling, portions
of it covered with wild sage. Wild fowl abound in this valley.
_September 10._ This day we traveled about ten miles; our course was
down the valley of Powder river; eight miles brought us to the crossing
of the same, one mile to the middle {53} fork, and one to the third
fork. There is good ground for encampments at any point along these
streams.
At our camp we were visited by an Indian chief of the tribe Caäguas,[88]
accompanied by his son. He was of a friendly disposition; his object in
visiting us was principally to barter for cattle; he had in his
possession thirty or more horses.
_September 11._ This day we traveled about twelve miles; for the first
five or six miles, the road was quite level and good, it then follows a
ridge dividing Powder river and Grand Round; this portion of the road is
very uneven and stony. The road leading down into the valley of Grand
Round, is circuitous, and its difficulty of travel enhanced by its
roughness; it is about one and a half miles in length, to where it
reaches the bottom. Grand Round is a valley, whose average width does
not exceed twenty miles, and is about thirty miles in length; a stream
of water of some twenty yards in width passes through this valley,
receiving considerable addition to its volume from the many rivulets
that pour down their waters from the mountains, by which this valley is
enclosed. The bottoms are of rich friable earth, and afford grass of
various kinds, among others that of red clover. There is a root here
found in great abundance, and known as the _camas_, which is held in
high repute by the Indians for some medicinal qualities it is thought to
possess; wild flax and a variety of other plants grow in luxuriance,
like to those I have observed in the western prairies.[89] The streams
are generally lined with timber, and abound in salmon and other
varieties of fish. Upon the sides of the mountains and extending down
into the valley are found beautiful groves of yellow pine timber. These
mountains are places of resort for bear, deer, and elk.
This bottom affords an excellent situation for a settlement, possessing
more advantages in that respect, than any found since our departure from
the lower Platte river. North of this and at the distance of about
twenty miles, is another valley, similar in appearance to this, but of
greater extent.[90] The streams having their course through this valley
empty into Lewis river, which is eighty or ninety miles to the north.
Our camp was at the foot of the hill, convenient to a spring branch. At
twilight we were visited by four or five of the Caäguas, the tribe
alluded to previously.
An incident quite worthy of note, occurred at this place. The {54}
chief (Aliquot by name)[91] who had joined us at our other encampment,
and had pursued this day's journey in company, had pitched his tent some
three hundred yards to the rear of our camp. In the evening, in
strolling about the camp, I came near his tent, and entered with the
intention of employing his squaw in the soling of my moccasins; while
she was engaged in this employment, a conversation had sprung up between
the old chief and myself, in which he took occasion to ask me if I were
a christian, as also whether there were many upon the road; to which
questions I of course answered in the affirmative, supposing that he
merely wished to know, whether I classed myself with the heathen or
christians. On my return to our camp, some one of our party proposed
that we should while away an hour or so, in a game at cards, which was
readily assented to. We had but engaged in our amusement, when the old
chief Aliquot made his appearance, holding a small stick in his hand; he
stood transfixed for a moment, and then advanced to me, raising his
hand, which held the stick in the act of chastising me, and gently
taking me by the arm, said "Captain--Captain--no good; no good." You may
guess my astonishment, at being thus lectured by a "wild and untutored
savage," twenty five hundred miles from a civilized land. I inwardly
resolved to abandon card playing forever.
_September 12._ This day we traveled about seven miles; the road runs
across the upper end of Grand round, to a small spring branch, when it
again ascends the mountains. At this spring branch we pitched our camp,
and while here, were visited by great numbers of Indians, including men,
squaws, and papooses. These Indians have decidedly a better appearance
than any I have met; tall and athletic in form, and of great symmetry of
person; they are generally well clad, and observe pride in personal
cleanliness. They brought wheat, corn, potatoes, peas, pumpkins, fish,
&c. which they were anxious to dispose of for cloths, calico, napkins
and other articles of wearing apparel; they also had dressed deer skins
and moccasins; they had good horses, which they offered in exchange for
cows and heifers; they would gladly exchange a horse for a cow,
esteeming the cow as of equal value. They remained with us throughout
the day, and when evening approached returned to their lodges along the
river two miles distant. I noticed a few of the Nez Percés (Pierced
Noses) tribe of Indians among them.[92] Both of these tribes are under
the influence and control of two Presbyterian missionaries, Dr. {55}
Whitman and Mr. Spalding, who have resided among them for the last ten
years; the former among the Caäguas, which inhabit the country bordering
on Wallawalla river and its tributaries, the Blue mountains and Grand
round: the latter among the Nez Percés who inhabit the country lying
along Lewis river, and its tributaries, from the eastern base of the
Blue mountains to the Columbia river.[93] These missionary
establishments are of a like character to those farther north. As I
shall have occasion to speak of these missionaries, as also the
beneficial results which have flowed from their residence among the
savages, I will return to my travels.
Some of our party becoming scant of provision, started for Dr.
Whitman's, the missionary establishment referred to above, intending to
rejoin us at Umatillo river, my old friend Aliquot generously proffered
his services as pilot for them, which were readily accepted.
_September 13._ This day we traveled about seven miles. From Grand Round
the road ascends the Blue mountains, and for two miles is quite steep
and precipitous; and to such an extent, as to require six yoke of oxen,
or more, to be attached to a wagon; from the summit of these mountains
is presented a rolling country for some four miles, alternately prairie
and groves of yellow pine timber. In the prairie the grass is quite dry,
but among the groves of timber it is green and flourishing. The road is
very stony; at the end of four miles it takes down the mountain to Grand
Round river, one mile in distance; it then crosses. Here is another
bottom covered with grass and bushes, where we pitched our encampment.
It is a remarkable circumstance that when individuals are engaged in
conversation, their voices can be heard distinctly at a quarter of a
mile distance; the discharge of a gun resembles that of a cannon, and is
echoed from hill to hill, the reverberations continuing for some length
of time.
_September 14._ This day we traveled about ten miles. The road ascended
the mountain for one and a half or two miles, then wound along the ridge
crossing many deep ravines, and pursuing its route over high craggy
rocks; sometimes directing its course over an open plain, at others
through thick groves of timber, winding among fallen trees and logs, by
which the road was encumbered. The scenery is grand and beautiful, and
cannot be surpassed; the country to a great distance is rough in the
extreme. It may strictly be termed a timber country, although many small
prairies are dotted over its surface. {56} The valleys are beautiful and
the soil presents a very rich appearance. We encamped in an opening, on
the south side of a range of mountains running to the north, and found
water in plenty in the bottom of the ravine, on our left, about one
fourth of a mile from the road. The timber growing in this region is
principally yellow pine, spruce, balsam fir, and hemlock; among the
bushes I noticed laurel.
_September 15._ This day we traveled about nine miles, over the main
ridge of the Blue Mountains. It is mostly a timbered country through
which we passed; the scenery is delightful, resembling in grandeur that
presented on yesterday's travel.[94] We had a fine view of the Cascade
Mountains to the west. Mount Hood, the loftiest of these, was plain to
the view. It was some one hundred and fifty miles distant, and being
covered with snow, appeared as a white cloud rising above those
surrounding it. To the north of Mount Hood, and north of the Columbia,
is seen Mount Saint Helen. We halted for the night at Lee's
encampment.[95]
_September 16._ We traveled about sixteen miles this day, which brought
us to Umatillo river. Here is an Indian town, the residence of the
principal chiefs of the Caäguas.[96] At this time they were mostly in
the mountains hunting. The road has been good; the first twelve miles
led us through a well timbered country, the last four miles over
prairie; the country has a dry appearance; the banks of the streams are
lined with cottonwood, balm of gilead, choke cherries and every variety
of bushes. The Indians have a few cultivated fields along this stream;
they raise wheat, corn, potatoes, peas and a variety of vegetables.
After the planting of crops, the labour of tending devolves upon the
squaws, or is done by slaves, of which they have a number, being
captives taken in their expeditions against other tribes. They brought
us the different products of their farms for traffic. As they expressed
great eagerness to obtain clothes, and we had a like desire to obtain
vegetables, a brisk traffic was continued until dark. On yesterday
morning when about ready to start, we discovered that eight or ten of
our work cattle were missing. Four of our number, myself included,
remained to hunt them up. In our search we rambled over the mountains
for several miles, and at night found them about three miles from camp;
we then followed the road and arrived at Lee's encampment just after
dark. This morning an ox, a mule and a horse were missing. Three of us
remained to hunt for them. We searched the prairies and {57} thickets
for miles around, but were unsuccessful. We then pursued the road to
Umatillo, which we reached at night.
_September 17._ At eight o'clock this morning, the men who had left us
at Grand Round for Dr. Whitman's station, rejoined us, accompanied by
the doctor and his lady.[97] They came in a two horse wagon, bringing
with them a plentiful supply of flour, meal and potatoes. After our
party had taken some refreshment, the march was resumed; our visitors
accompanying us to our camp four miles down the river. Our present
location affords but little grazing.
The doctor and lady remained with us during the day; he took occasion to
inform us of the many incidents that marked his ten years' sojourn in
this wilderness region, of a highly interesting character. Among other
things, he related that during his residence in this country, he had
been reduced to such necessity for want of food, as to be compelled to
slay his horse; stating that within that period, no less than thirty-two
horses had been served up at his table. It appears that the soil has
never been cultivated until within a few years back; but at this time,
so much attention is given to the culture of the soil, which yields
abundantly, that the privations of famine, or even scarcity, will
probably not again recur. The condition of the savages has been greatly
ameliorated and their improvement is chiefly attributable to the
missionary residents. They have a good stock of cattle, hogs, sheep,
&c., and raise an amount of grain not only sufficient to supply their
own wants, but affords a surplus. These tribes differ in their
appearance and customs from any we have met. They recognise the change
which has taken place, and are not ignorant that it has been effected by
the efforts and labor of the missionaries. On the other hand, they
acknowledge the benefits derived by yielding to their instructions. They
have embraced the Christian religion, and appear devout in their
espousal of Christian doctrines. The entire time of the missionaries is
devoted to the cause for which they have forsaken their friends and
kindred; they have left the comforts of home, and those places which
have been endeared by early associations, for the wild wilderness and
the habitation of the savage, prompted by those principles of charity
and benevolence which the Christian religion always inculcates. Their
privations and trials have been great, but they have borne them with
humility and meekness, and the fruits of their devotion are now
manifest; and if any class of people deserve well of their country, or
are entitled to the thanks of {58} a christian community, it is the
missionaries. Having no family of their own, they generously take
families of orphan children, raise and educate them in a manner that is
worthy of all commendation.[98]
_September 18._ This morning, after breakfast, our worthy guests left us
and we took up our line of march, traveling down the Umatillo valley for
some twelve miles, crossing the _stream_ twice. The road then takes up
the bluff to the right, over a high grassy plain. Our encampment was
pitched on the bluff on the left of the road. The water required at
camp, was packed about one and a half miles, being procured at the base
of the bluffs, up which we had to climb. The country is very rolling,
covered with dry grass; it is mostly prairie. From this point two snowy
peaks appear in view, as also the great valley of the Columbia; in truth
it may be said that our present location is in that valley, although it
is generally termed the middle region.