miles.[58] The first view we had was of two or three white hillocks or
mounds, standing up at different points to the right of the road, and
near a grove of cedar and pine timber. One of them is about ten rods
long at the base, and three or four rods in width; its elevation is
probably twenty-five or thirty feet from the plain in which it is
situated. The size of these mounds continually increases, as the water
oozes out at different points, and produces a crust which becomes quite
hard. The rocks, for miles around, are of the soda formation. Upon these
mounds the water is warm. In a small bottom, immediately before
reaching the first of these mounds, and about two hundred yards above
the road, is a hole about eight feet in diameter; in this is a pool of
water, strongly impregnated with soda. I had no means of ascertaining
the depth, but believe it to be considerable; at one edge of it the
water was boiling and sparkling; it would sometimes swell four inches
above the surface. This pool, and others contiguous, affords excellent
drinking water; it was cool, and, when sweetened, would compare
favourably with any soda water. Just below the mound, and near the
grove, is a rapid stream of water, coursing over a rocky bottom, formed
by soda. At the crossing of this creek, and below the road, is a morass;
and immediately on the bank of the rivulet, is a crevice in the rock,
from which a small stream of water issues; this was the best to drink of
any I found. After crossing the creek, the distance to the springs
generally resorted to is about three-fourths of a mile; they boil up in
every direction. Several mounds have been formed, of ten feet in height.
The water has found some other passage, and left them to moulder away.
The centre or middle of these are concave. The surface of the earth here
is some twelve or fifteen feet above the level of the river, the bank of
which is of rock, of the soda formation. A grove of cedar and pine
timber extends from the river back to {39} the mountain, a distance of
two and a half or three miles; the space between the road and the river
is covered with grass; but between it and the mountain it is barren of
vegetation of any kind. The soda has left a sediment, which is now
crumbled and loose, with an occasional mound of ten or twelve feet
elevation, but no water running. The river here is about one hundred
yards in width, and about eighteen inches in depth, running very
rapidly. The soda water is bubbling up in every direction, and sometimes
rises six inches above the surface of the river. This bubbling extends
for near half a mile. A stream comes in from the north at the western
edge of the springs, tumbles over the rocks, and finally into the river.
Near where one branch of this falls over the rock (it has several
passages where the road crosses it) is a circular basin in the rock,
being two feet in diameter at the top, but larger below. It was covered
with grass; and, in walking along, I barely avoided stepping into it;
whilst at its edge the purling or gurgling of the water, as it boils up,
apprized me of its vicinity. The surface of the water is about three
feet below the top of the rock. The water is cool, much more so than the
water of the springs, and is remarkably clear.
Three hundred yards below the crossing of this branch, and immediately
on the bank of the river, is the Steamboat Spring.[59] The water has
formed a small cone of about two and a half feet in height, and three
feet in diameter, at the base. A hole of six inches in diameter at the
top, allows the water to discharge itself. It swells out at intervals of
eight or ten seconds, and sometimes flows four or five feet in
disjointed fragments. It is lukewarm, and has a milky appearance; but
when taken in a vessel becomes as transparent as crystal. It produces a
sound similar to the puffing of a steamboat, but not quite so deep. It
can frequently be heard at the distance of a quarter of a mile. About
six feet from this is a small fissure in the rock, which is called the
escape-pipe or gas-pipe. It makes a hissing noise, corresponding with
the belching of the spring. The gas emitted from this fissure is so
strong that it would suffocate a person, holding his head near the
ground. To the rear of this, across the road, are mounds fifty or sixty
feet in height; these were entirely dry. Up this creek is very good
grazing for cattle, but there are found some marshy places contiguous.
The bottom upon the opposite side of the river is four or five miles in
width, and covered with a good coat of grass. The soil looks good; and
if the seasons are not too {40} short, would produce well. The mountain
upon the south side is covered with heavy pine timber; on the north side
but little timber was observed; what little was noticed consisted
principally of scrubby cedars. Antelope found in abundance. The water,
in many of the springs, is sufficiently strong to raise bread, equally
as well as saleratus or yeast. Were it not for their remote situation,
these springs would be much resorted to, especially during the summer
months. The country is mountainous, and its altitude so great, that the
air is always cool, and consequently must be healthy.
Companies wishing to remain for a length of time at the springs, would
pursue a proper course in driving their cattle over the river, as good
grazing can thereby be had.
_August 5._ We traveled about nineteen miles. Five miles brought us to
where the road leaves the river, and bears northward through a valley.
The river bears to the southward and empties its waters into Big Salt
Lake.[60] The range of mountains bounding the north side of the river
here comes to within a half mile of it, then bears off to the north,
leaving a valley of about seven or eight miles in width between it and a
range coming from Lewis river, and extending south towards Salt Lake.
The range bounding the south side of the river comes abruptly to the
stream at this point, presenting huge and cumbrous masses of basaltic
rock, but it is generally covered with heavy timber. At this point two
trails are found: one striking west, across the valley, to the opposite
side; the other, which is the nearest and best, follows around the
point, hugging the base of the mountain for several miles. Two and one
half miles distant, and immediately beneath a cliff of rocks by the road
side, is to be found a soda pool. A little spring of cool soda water
runs out at the base of the rock, and a basin of eight or ten yards in
extent, and about two and one half feet high has been formed. Inside of
this, is a pool of water;--the material composing the bank around, is of
a white color. In a few miles travel, we crossed several spring
branches. We then directed our course through the plain for some eight
or nine miles, to where we encamped. Our camp was located near a spring
branch; but a small quantity of wood was found; grazing was excellent.
From where the road leaves the river, the country presents every
appearance of having been volcanic at some period. Craters are yet
standing in the plain, exhibiting positive evidence of this fact. A
large mound has been formed by the lava ejected from this crater. In
the centre is {41} a deep cavity; now partially filled, from the falling
in of the masses of bank surrounding it. In every direction the eye
rests upon fragments of rock, which have been thrown out in a hot and
burning condition, many of them melted and united; pieces resembling
broken junk bottles or black glass lay scattered over the plain. The
valley for ten or twelve miles is covered with stone of this
description. In many places the rocks have been lifted or bulged up to
an elevation of ten or fifteen feet, the top has been burst asunder,
presenting a cavity of eight or ten feet in width, caused by the
fragments having been cast out; the depth of the cavity is from twenty
to thirty feet, the sides have a black appearance, and exhibit
indications of having been burned; at other places the rock had been
lifted up, and elevated above the surface of the earth some five or six
feet, and about the same in width, having numerous small apertures in
it, the centre being concave. The stone forms a complete arch. At other
places the rock has been rent, and a chasm of thirty or forty feet in
depth and from two to ten feet in width, has been the result. These
chasms are about one quarter of a mile in length. The fragments lay in
every direction.
The country over this plain is rather barren; but at certain seasons of
the year, is covered with grass, which during the summer months dies,
leaving but little appearance of vegetation. After we had halted for the
night, three families who had separated from our company at the Soda
Springs, passed us. A few hours had elapsed, and we espied one of their
number returning post haste to our camp. When he arrived, he was so
paralysed with fear, that it was with difficulty we obtained from him
the cause of his alarm. It appeared evident, from his statement, that a
party of Snake Indians meditated an attack upon their party. We
dispatched a company to their relief, but soon had the gratification to
witness the return of their wagons to our camp. It appears that one of
their number had marched about two miles in advance of the wagons, when
he was discovered by a party of Snake Indians, lurking in the vicinity,
who immediately gave him chase, at every step uttering the most terrific
yells, and endeavoured to surround him; but as he was astride a fleet
American courser, he succeeded in outstripping them, and arrived at the
wagons in time to prepare for their approach. The wagons were then in a
deep ravine, and could not be seen, by the Indians in pursuit, until
within seventy-five yards. As soon as the Indians discovered {42} their
proximity to the wagons they commenced a precipitate retreat, and the
emigrants rejoined our party.
_August 6._ We traveled this day about fifteen miles. The road for seven
miles is up the valley; it then takes over the mountain, to the waters
running into Snake or Lewis river. The high range of mountains which
bears off towards _Salt Lake_, terminates near the road on the left. The
road follows a ravine, and winds about among the hills, and thickets of
quaking aspen, until it reaches a spring branch, down which it follows,
to near Fort Hall. Over the ridge, and for two miles down the branch,
there is but little grass found. At the distance of three miles, on our
left up the mountain, were several patches of snow. A few of our party
brought some of the snow to our camp.
_August 7._ This day we made about eighteen miles. For ten miles the
road is very good. Along the stream is found willow brush, answering for
fuel. The last seven miles is over a sandy plain; it was dry, and very
heavy traveling. Our camp was at a large spring of cold water; grazing
was very good.
_August 8._ We traveled but five miles, which brought us to Fort
Hall.[61] This is a trading post in the possession of the _Hudson's Bay
Company_. Like the forts on the east side of the mountains, it is built
of mud or adobes. (This term applies to sun-burnt brick.) They are of a
similar construction. At each corner is a bastion, projecting out some
eight or ten feet, perforated with holes for fire-arms. Captain Grant is
now the officer in command; he has the bearing of a gentleman.[62] The
garrison was supplied with flour, which had been procured from the
settlements in Oregon, and brought here on pack horses. They sold it to
the emigrants for twenty dollars per cwt., taking cattle in exchange;
and as many of the emigrants were nearly out of flour, and had a few
lame cattle, a brisk trade was carried on between them and the
inhabitants of the fort. In the exchange of cattle for flour, an
allowance was made of from five to twelve dollars per head. They also
had horses which they readily exchanged for cattle or sold for cash. The
price demanded for horses was from fifteen to twenty-five dollars. They
could not be prevailed upon to receive anything in exchange for their
goods or provisions, excepting cattle or money.
The bottoms here are wide, and covered with grass. There is an
abundance of wood for fuel, fencing, and other purposes. {43} No attempt
has, as yet, been made to cultivate the soil. I think the drought too
great; but if irrigation were resorted to, I doubt not it would produce
some kinds of grain, such as wheat, corn, potatoes, &c.
Our camp was located one mile to the southwest of the fort; and as at
all the other forts, the Indians swarmed about us. They are of the Snake
tribe, and inhabit the country bordering on Lewis and Bear rivers, and
their various tributaries. This tribe is said to be numerous; but in
consequence of the continual wars which they have engaged in with the
Sioux, Crows and Blackfeet, their numbers are rapidly diminishing.
Snake river, which flows within one half mile of the fort, is a clear
and beautiful stream of water.[63] It courses over a pebbly bottom. Its
width is about one hundred and fifty yards. It abounds in fish of
different varieties, which are readily taken with the hook.
While we remained in this place, great efforts were made to induce the
emigrants to pursue the route to California. The most extravagant tales
were related respecting the dangers that awaited a trip to Oregon, and
of the difficulties and trials to be surmounted. The perils of the way
were so magnified as to make us suppose the journey to Oregon almost
impossible. For instance, the two crossings of _Snake_ river, and the
crossing of the Columbia, and other smaller streams, were represented as
being attended with great danger; also that no company heretofore
attempting the passage of these streams, succeeded, but with the loss of
men, from the violence and rapidity of the current; as also that they
had never succeeded in getting more than fifteen or twenty head of
cattle into the Willamette valley. In addition to the above, it was
asserted that three or four tribes of Indians, in the middle region, had
combined for the purpose of preventing our passage through their
country, and should we attempt it, we would be compelled to contend with
these hostile tribes. In case we escaped destruction at the hands of the
savages, a more fearful enemy, that of famine, would attend our march;
as the distance was so great that winter would overtake us before making
the passage of the Cascade Mountains.
On the other hand, as an inducement to pursue the California route, we
were informed of the shortness of the route, when compared with that to
Oregon; as also of many other superior advantages it possessed.
{44} These tales, told and rehearsed, were likely to produce the effect
of turning the tide of emigration thither. Mr. Greenwood, an old
mountaineer, well stocked with falsehoods, had been dispatched from
California to pilot the emigrants through;[64] and assisted by a young
man by the name of McDougal, from Indiana, so far succeeded as to induce
thirty-five or thirty-six wagons to take that trail.[65]
About fifteen wagons had been fitted out, expressly for California; and,
joined by the thirty-five afore-mentioned, completed a train of fifty
wagons; what the result of their expedition has been, I have not been
able to learn.[66]
_August 9._ This day we traveled about eight miles; five miles brought
us to the crossing of Portneth. This is a stream heading in the
mountains near the Soda Springs, receiving numerous branches in this
bottom, and is here about eighty yards in width.[67] From this place, it
is one mile to the crossing of a narrow slough, with steep banks. We
crossed, and journeyed two miles to the bank of Snake river, where we
encamped. Eight wagons joined us at our encampment.
_August 10._ We remained in camp.
_August 11._ This day we traveled about eight miles; which brought us to
within one mile of the American falls.[68] Our camp was at the springs.
An island in the river afforded excellent grazing for cattle. The
country is extremely barren, being sandy sage plains.[69]
_August 12._ We traveled about fifteen miles, which brought us to Levy
creek, or Beaver-dam creek, as it is sometimes termed; it is a small
stream; its waters flow down a succession of falls, producing a handsome
cascade: it has the appearance of having been built up by beaver. The
property of the water has turned the material into stone; the water
appears to be impregnated with soda; the rocks along the bank are of
that formation.[70] The best camp is two miles farther on.
_August 13._ This day we traveled about eight miles, to Cassia creek;
here the California trail turns off. The road {45} has been very dusty
and heavy traveling. The country presents the same usual barren
appearance.[71]
_August 14._ This day we traveled about fifteen miles, and reached
marshy springs; the road has been stony and dusty; the country mostly
destitute of vegetation--nothing growing but the wild sage and
wormwood.[72]
_August 15._ We traveled but eleven miles. The road runs over a sage
plain for eight miles, when it crosses the stream from the marsh; no
water running, and but little standing in pools. At the distance of
three miles the road strikes the river bottom, at the lower end of this,
at which place the road leaves it; here was found a good camp.
_August 16._ We traveled about twenty-three miles. Four miles brought us
to Goose creek. We found difficulty in crossing, and no good location
for a camp.[73] After seven miles travel we reached the river; but
little grass. Twelve miles brought us to Dry Branch; here also was
unsuitable ground for encamping, as the water was standing in pools. The
road we traveled was very dusty, and portions of it quite stony; here
the river runs through a rocky _kanyon_. The cliffs are sometimes of the
height of one thousand feet, and nearly perpendicular.[74] Above the
_kanyon_, the river is two or three hundred yards wide; but at this
place it is not more than one hundred and fifty feet; and at one place,
where there is a fall of some twenty feet, its width does not exceed
seventy-five feet. In our march this day I attempted to get down to the
river, to procure a drink of water, but for six miles was unable to do
so, owing to the steep precipitous banks.
_August 17._ We traveled but eight miles. The road lay over a sage
plain to the bottom on Rock creek.[75] Here we found a very good camp.
_August 18._ This day we traveled about twenty miles. After the distance
of eight miles we arrived at the crossing of Rock creek, (in a
_kanyon_,) here we halted for dinner, and gave our cattle water. We then
took up the bluff, and traveled over sand and sage plains for about
twelve miles. When night overtook us we drove to the top of the river
bluff and encamped. We drove our cattle one and a half miles down the
bluff to the river for water. Here we found a little grass and green
brush, but it was not sufficient in quantity to supply our cattle, and
we could do no better. We packed water up the bluff to our camp. The
bluffs at this place exceed one thousand feet in height; they are of
basalt. The road is on a high barren {46} plain; a range of mountains is
on our left hard by, and at a great distance on our right another range
appears.
_August 19._ We traveled about twelve miles. Nine miles brought us to
where we pass down to the river bottom; from this point the distance to
the river was three miles. A warm spring branch empties itself into the
river at this place. Emigrants would pursue a more proper course by
encamping on the bottom, near the source of Rock creek, then drive down
to where the road crosses in a _kanyon_, then following the road for
eight or nine miles to where the road leaves the bluff of the creek and
encamp, driving their cattle into the creek bottom. From this place they
can drive to Salmon Fall creek, just four miles below our present
encampment, follow down this creek to its mouth, where will be found an
excellent camp.
_August 20._ We traveled about nine miles, reaching the Salmon
Falls.[76] Here are eighteen or twenty Indian huts. Salmon come up to
these falls: the Indians have an abundance of them, which they very
readily dispose of for hooks, powder, balls, clothing, calico and
knives, and in fact for almost anything we have at our disposal.
The river at this place is a succession of cataracts for several miles,
the highest of which does not exceed twelve feet. The grazing was very
poor, and the country barren as usual.
_August 21._ We traveled about twelve miles; for two miles the road is
up a sandy hill, it then strikes a sandy sage plain, over which it takes
its course for ten miles. Here night overtook us, as we had commenced
our march at a very late hour on account of having lost some horses. Our
camp was on the top of the river bluff. It is one mile to water; but
little grass was found. This day we found several head of cattle that
had given out from fatigue of traveling. Some of the companies had been
racing, endeavoring to pass each other, and now they have reached a
region where but little grass is found--are beginning to reap the reward
of their folly.
_August 22._ Our cattle were so much scattered that it was late in the
day when we prepared to resume our march. We traveled about ten miles.
At night we left the road, and directed our course to the right, down a
ravine to the river, where we encamped. Our cattle suffered much for
want of food.
_August 23._ This morning we turned up the ravine for one and a half
miles, and then struck up the hill to the road. Three and a half miles
brought us to where the road crosses {47} the Snake river. In coming
down to the river bottom, there is a very steep hill. Along the shore of
this river was a little grass; there are two islands covered with
grass, so that our cattle were soon repaid for their privations
heretofore. The difficulties attending the crossing of this stream had
been represented as being almost insurmountable; but upon examination we
found it an exaggeration. From the main shore to first island there is
no difficulty; from first to second island, turn well up, until nearly
across, then bear down to where the road enters it. The water is not
deep until nearly across, and not then if you keep well up stream. From
second island to main shore is more difficult; it is about three hundred
yards wide and the current very rapid. Strike in, heading well up for
two rods, then quartering a little down until eight or ten rods from
shore: then quartering a little up for fifteen or twenty rods; then
strike up for the coming out place; the bottom is gravelly. With the
exception of a few holes, the water for the first fifteen rods is the
deepest part of the ford. The bottom is very uneven; there are holes
found of six or eight feet in width, many of them swimming. Those
crossing this stream can escape the deepest of these holes by having
horsemen in the van and at each side; it is necessary that there be
attached to each wagon four or six yoke of oxen, the current being
swift; and in the passage of these holes, previously alluded to, when
one yoke is compelled to swim, the others may be in shallow water. Great
care must be taken that these teams be not beat down too low and pass
over the ripple; and to prevent such a casualty, two drivers must attend
each wagon. Before attempting the passage of the river all articles
liable to damage, from coming in contact with the water, should be piled
on the top of the wagon bed. We commenced crossing at eleven o'clock,
A. M., and at one o'clock, P. M., we effected the passage of the stream,
and were so fortunate as to land our goods free from all damage. We
traveled two miles to a spring branch and pitched our encampment. Good
grass, wood and water, were procured in plenty.[77]
_August 24._ We traveled but six miles. Soon after leaving camp we
directed our course up a stony hill; thence over a sage plain to a
spring branch.[78] We pursued our way up this branch for one mile, where
we obtained good grazing for our cattle; a high range of hills appearing
on our right, at the distance of two miles, an occasional grove of pine
timber upon them; but, in general, the mountains here are covered with
{48} grass; numerous streams issuing from their sides, and pouring their
waters in the plain below. There is no appearance of vegetation until
you reach the low bottoms immediately along the water's edge. The road
traveled to-day was quite stony.
The Indians along this road are expert in theft and roguery. A young man
having a horse which he had taken much pains to get along, when night
approached, staked and hobbled him, that he might not stray off; but at
night an Indian stole into the camp, unhobbled the horse, cut the rope,
and took him off, leaving the young man undisturbed in his sleep. A few
days thereafter, this Indian effected a sale of the horse to one of a
party of emigrants traveling behind us.
_August 25._ We remained in camp.
_August 26._ We traveled about ten miles; our camp was located on a
small rivulet, at a quarter of a mile's distance above the road, and
near the mouth of the _Hot_ Spring branch. Between the road and the
mountain good grazing was found. The river is about eight miles on our
left; the space between is a barren, sandy sage plain.