brought us to the river; we followed the banks of the river for two
miles, and encamped; good grazing is found. The stream as usual is lined
with timber, but with this exception, it is a rolling prairie as far as
can be seen, extending to the north and south, and bounded on the east
and west by the Blue and Cascade mountains. Whilst at this camp, we were
visited by the Wallawalla Indians; they reside along the lower part of
the Wallawalla, the low bottoms of the Umatillo and the Columbia, from
the mouth of Lewis river for one hundred miles south. They furnished us
with potatoes and venison. In their personal appearance they are much
inferior to the Caäguas, and want the cleanliness that characterizes
that tribe.[99]
_September 20._ This day we traveled about fifteen miles. For the first
eight miles the soil was remarkably rich in appearance, an admixture of
sand and loam, and covered with good grass; the stream is lined with
timber, in common with many of those that we have passed; the last seven
miles was sandy and heavy traveling. The Columbia river presents itself
on our right, at the distance of four miles. The river is in view for
miles along this road. The prickly pear is found in abundance. It was
our intention to have reached the Columbia before encamping, but from
the difficult traveling, were compelled to encamp on the sandy plain,
deprived of water, wood and grass.
{59} _September 21._ This morning at daylight we started for the
Columbia, distance three and a half miles. The river at this place is
from a half to three-fourths of a mile in width. It is a beautiful
stream; its waters are clear and course gently over a pebbly bottom.
Along the Columbia, is a strip of barren country of twelve miles in
width; a little dry grass in bunches, prickly pear and grease wood, dot
its surface. With this exception, its appearance was wild and solitary
to a great degree; but sterile as it is in appearance, the view is
relieved by the majesty of the river that flows by it. Immediately along
the bank of the Columbia is a narrow bottom, covered with green grass,
cucklebur, wild sunflower, pig weed, and several other kinds of weeds,
all of which were in full bloom. There was something inspiriting and
animating in beholding this. A feeling of pleasure would animate our
breasts akin to that filling the breast of the mariner, when after years
of absence, the shores of his native land appear to view. We could
scarce persuade ourselves but that our journey had arrived at its
termination. We were full of hope, and as it was understood that we had
but one more difficult part of the road to surmount, we moved forward
with redoubled energy; our horses and cattle were much jaded, but we
believed that they could be got through, or at least the greater part of
them.
The Indians were constantly paying us visits, furnishing us with
vegetables, which, by the by, were quite welcome; but they would in
return demand wearing apparel, until by traffic, we were left with but
one suit. We were compelled to keep a sharp look out over our kitchen
furniture, as during these visits it was liable to diminish in quantity
by forming an attachment towards these children of the forest, and
following them off. Many of these savages were nearly naked; they differ
greatly from the Caäguas, being much inferior; they are a greasy,
filthy, dirty set of miscreants as ever might be met.
_September 22._ This day we remained in camp, engaged in traffic with
the Indians. Some of our party were in want of horses, and took this
occasion to supply themselves.
_September 23._ This day we traveled about twenty miles. The first eight
miles the road is heavy traveling; the remaining portion however is much
better, with the exception of the last five miles, which proved to be
quite rocky. There is an occasional green spot to be found, but the
whole distance we have traveled since we first struck the river cannot
be regarded {60} as more than a barren sandy plain. In our route this
day we passed several Indian villages; they are but temporary
establishments, as their migratory disposition will not justify more
permanent structures.
_September 24._ This day we traveled but sixteen miles. After a march of
seven miles, we arrived at a small creek, a good situation for
encamping; nine miles more brought us to Dry Branch, from whence we
proceeded down the bluff to the river; a great portion of the road
traveled was sandy and heavy.[100]
_September 25._ This day we traveled about fourteen miles. The road was
quite hilly; sometimes it followed the bank of the river, at others
pursued its course along the high bluff. The river is confined to a very
narrow channel; country very barren, and the bluffs of great height.
_September 26._ This day we traveled about three miles. The road ascends
the bluff; is very difficult in ascent from its steepness, requiring
twice the force to impel the wagons usually employed; after effecting
the ascent, the sinuosity of the road led us among the rocks to the
bluff on John Day's river; here we had another obstacle to surmount,
that of going down a hill very precipitous in its descent, but we
accomplished it without loss or injury to our teams. This stream comes
tumbling through kanyons and rolling over rocks at a violent rate. It is
very difficult to cross, on account of the stone forming the bed of the
creek; its width, however, does not exceed ten yards. The grazing is
indifferent, the grass being completely dried.[101]
_September 27._ This morning we discovered that several of our trail
ropes had been stolen. Our horses could not be found until very late;
notwithstanding the delay thus occasioned we traveled some twenty miles.
The road for the first three miles is up hill; it then pursues its
course over a grassy, rolling plain for fifteen or sixteen miles, when
it again descends the bluff to the bank of the Columbia, which we
followed down for one mile and there encamped. The bluffs are very high
and rocky. We suffered great inconvenience from the want of fuel, as
there is none to be found along the Columbia; we collected a few dry
sticks of driftwood and weeds, which enabled us to partially cook our
food. The road we traveled this day was very good.
_September 28._ This day we traveled about twelve miles. Two miles
brought us to the crossing of De Shutes or Falls {61} river; a stream
having its source in a marshy plain bordering on the Great Basin, and
receives numerous tributaries heading in the Cascade mountains, the
eastern base of which it follows and pours its waters into the Columbia.
The mouth of De Shutes river is near fifteen miles east of the Dalles or
eastern base of these mountains; the river is about one hundred yards
wide, and the current very rapid; the stream is enclosed by lofty cliffs
of basaltic rock. Four hundred yards from the Columbia is a rapid or
cascade. Within the distance of thirty yards its descent is from fifteen
to twenty feet.[102] The current of this stream was so rapid and
violent, and withal of such depth, as to require us to ferry it. Some of
the companies behind us, however, drove over at its mouth by crossing on
a bar. Preparatory to ferrying, we unloaded our wagons, and taking them
apart, put them aboard some Indian canoes, which were in waiting, and
crossed in safety; after putting our wagons in order of travel, and
preparing to start, we discovered ourselves minus a quantity of powder
and shot, two shirts and two pairs of pantaloons, which the Indians had
appropriated to their own use, doubtless to pay the trouble of ferriage.
In the morning a quarrel ensued among the Indians respecting their
canoes, closing in a _melee_, and such a fight I never before witnessed;
stones and missiles of every description that were at hand were used
with freedom. We did not interfere with them, and when they were tired
of fighting the effects of the battle were visible in numerous
instances, such as bloody noses and battered, bleeding heads.
We ascended the bluff and traveled along the brink for several miles,
then crossed over the ridge to a small creek; after crossing it, we took
up a dry run for one or two miles, thence over a ridge to a running
branch, and there encamped. The country through which we traveled this
day was extremely rough; all prairie, and covered with grass, but very
dry.
_September 29._ This day we traveled about five miles, which brought us
to the _Dalles_, or Methodist Missions.[103]
Here was the end of our road, as no wagons had ever gone below this
place. We found some sixty families in waiting for a passage down the
river; and as there were but two small boats running to the Cascade
falls, our prospect for a speedy passage was not overly flattering.
_September 30._ This day we intended to make arrangements for our
passage down the river, but we found upon inquiry, that the two boats
spoken of were engaged for at least {62} ten days, and that their
charges were exorbitant, and would probably absorb what little we had
left to pay our way to _Oregon City_. We then determined to make a trip
over the mountains, and made inquiries respecting its practicability of
some Indians, but could learn nothing definite, excepting that grass,
timber and water would be found in abundance; we finally ascertained
that a Mr. Barlow and Mr. Nighton had, with the same object, penetrated
some twenty or twenty-five miles into the interior, and found it
impracticable. Nighton had returned, but Barlow was yet in the
mountains, endeavoring to force a passage; they had been absent six
days, with seven wagons in their train, intending to go as far as they
could, and if found to be impracticable, to return and go down the
river.[104]
We succeeded in persuading fifteen families to accompany us in our trip
over the mountains, and immediately made preparations for our march. On
the afternoon of the first of October, our preparations were announced
as complete, and we took up our line of march; others in the mean time
had joined us, and should we fall in with Barlow, our train would
consist of some thirty wagons.
But before proceeding with a description of this route, I will enter
into a detail of the difficulties undergone by the company of two
hundred wagons, which had separated from us at Malheur creek, under the
pilotage of Mr. Meek.
It will be remembered that S. L. Meek had induced about two hundred
families, with their wagons and stock, to turn off at Malheur, with the
view of saving thereby some one hundred and fifty miles travel; and they
had started about the last of August. They followed up Malheur creek,
keeping up the southern branch, and pursuing a southern course. For a
long time they found a very good road, plenty of grass, fuel and water;
they left these waters, and directed their course over a rough
mountainous country, almost entirely bereft of vegetation, were for many
days destitute of water, and when they were so fortunate as to procure
this indispensable element, it was found stagnant in pools, unfit even
for the use of cattle; but necessity compelled them to the use of it.
The result was, that it made many of them sick; many of the cattle
died, and the majority were unfit for labor. A disease termed
camp-fever, broke out among the different companies, of which many
became the victims.
{63} They at length arrived at a marshy lake, which they attempted to
cross, but found it impracticable; and as the marsh appeared to bear
south, and many of them were nearly out of provisions, they came to a
determination to pursue a northern course, and strike the Columbia.
Meek, however, wished to go south of the lake, but they would not follow
him. They turned north, and after a few days' travel arrived at Deshutes
or Falls river. They traveled up and down this river, endeavoring to
find a passage, but as it ran through rocky _kanyons_, it was impossible
to cross.
Their sufferings were daily increasing, their stock of provisions was
rapidly wasting away, their cattle were becoming exhausted, and many
attached to the company were laboring under severe attacks of
sickness;--at length Meek informed them that they were not more than two
days' ride from the Dalles. Ten men started on horseback for the
Methodist stations, with the view of procuring provisions; they took
with them a scanty supply of provisions, intended for the two days'
journey. After riding faithfully for ten days, they at last arrived at
the Dalles. On their way they encountered an Indian, who furnished them
with a fish and a rabbit; this with the provision they had started with,
was their only food for the ten days' travel. Upon their arrival at the
Dalles they were so exhausted in strength, and the rigidity of their
limbs, from riding, was so great, as to render them unable to dismount
without assistance. They reached the Dalles the day previous to our
arrival.
At this place they met an old mountaineer, usually called Black Harris,
who volunteered his services as a pilot.[105] He in company with several
others, started in search of the lost company, whom they found reduced
to great extremities; their provisions nearly exhausted, and the company
weakened by exertion, and despairing of ever reaching the settlements.
They succeeded in finding a place where their cattle could be driven
down to the river, and made to swim across; after crossing, the bluff
had to be ascended. Great difficulty arose in the attempt to effect a
passage with the wagons. The means finally resorted to for the
transportation of the families and wagons were novel in the extreme. A
large rope was swung across the stream and attached to the rocks on
either side; a light wagon bed was suspended from this rope with
pulleys, to which ropes were attached; this bed served to convey the
families and loading in safety across; the wagons {64} were then drawn
over the bed of the river by ropes. The passage of this river occupied
some two weeks. The distance was thirty-five miles to the Dalles, at
which place they arrived about the 13th, or 14th of October. Some twenty
of their number had perished by disease, previous to their arrival at
the Dalles, and a like number were lost, after their arrival, from the
same cause. This company has been known by the name of the St. Joseph
company; but there were persons from every state of the Union within its
ranks. Illinois and Missouri, however, had the largest representation.
The statements I have given are as correct as I could arrive at, from
consultation with many of the members. This expedition was unfortunate
in the extreme. Although commenced under favorable auspices, its
termination assumed a gloomy character.[106]
It has been stated that some members of the Hudson's Bay Company were
instrumental in this expedition, but such is not the fact. Whilst I was
at Fort Hall, I conversed with Captain Grant respecting the
practicability of this same route, and was advised of the fact, that the
teams would be unable to get through. The individual in charge at Fort
Bois also advised me to the same purport. The censure rests, in the
origin of the expedition, upon Meek; but I have not the least doubt but
he supposed they could get through in safety. I have understood that a
few of the members controlled Meek, and caused him to depart from his
original plan. It was his design to have conducted the party to the
_Willamette Valley_, instead of going to the Dalles; and the direction
he first traveled induced this belief. Meek is yet of the opinion that
had he gone round the marshy lake to the south, he would have struck the
settlement on the Willamette, within the time required to travel to the
Dalles. Had he discovered this route, it would have proved a great
saving in the distance. I do not question but that there may be a route
found to the south of this, opening into the valley of the
Willamette.[107] But I must again return to the subject of my travels.
_October 1._ At four o'clock, P. M., every thing was ready for our
departure, and we pursued our way over the ridge, in a southern course.
The country was very rolling, and principally prairie. We found
excellent grazing. Our camp was pitched on a small spring branch.
_October 2._ This day we made about ten miles, crossing several ravines,
many of which had running water in them; {65} the country, like that of
yesterday's travel, proved to be very rolling; our camp was situated on
a small spring branch, having its source in the mountain.
_October 3._ This morning I started on horseback in advance of the
company, accompanied by one of its members. Our course led us south over
a rolling, grassy plain; portions of the road were very stony. After a
travel of fourteen miles, we arrived at a long and steep declivity,
which we descended, and after crossing the creek at its base, ascended a
bluff; in the bottom are seen several small enclosures, where the
Indians have cultivated the soil; a few Indian huts may be seen along
this stream.
Meek's company crossed Deshute's river near the mouth of this stream,
which is five miles distant.[108] After ascending, we turned to the
right, directing our course over a level grassy plain for some five
miles or more, when we crossed a running branch; five miles brought us
to Stony Branch, and to scattering yellow pine timber. Here we found
Barlow's company of seven wagons. Barlow was absent at the time, having
with three others started into the mountain two days before. We remained
with them all night.
_October 4._ This morning myself and companion, with a scanty supply of
provisions for a two days' journey, started on a westerly course into
the mountains. From the open ground we could see Mount Hood. Our object
was to go south and near to this peak. For five miles the country was
alternately prairie and yellow pine; we then ascended a ridge, which
ascended gradually to the west. This we followed for ten miles. After
the crossing of a little brushy bottom, we took over another ridge for
four or five miles, very heavily timbered and densely covered with
undergrowth. We descended the ridge for a short distance, and traveled a
level bench for four miles; this is covered with very large and tall fir
timber; we then descended the mountain, traveling westward for one and a
half miles; we then came to a small branch, which we named Rock
creek.[109] After crossing the creek, we ascended a hill for one fourth
of a mile, then bore to the left around the hill, through a dense forest
of spruce pine. After five miles travel from Rock creek we came to a
marshy cedar swamp; we turned to the left, and there found a suitable
place for crossing. Here is a stream of from five to six yards in width,
when confined to one channel; but in many places it runs over a bottom
of two rods in width, strewed with old moss {66} covered logs and roots.
The water was extremely clear and cold. Four miles brought us to the top
of the bluff of a deep gulf; we turned our course northward for two
miles, when darkness overtook us, forcing us to encamp. A little grass
was discernible on the mountain sides, which afforded our jaded horses a
scanty supply.
_October 5._ At an early hour this morning, I proceeded down the
mountain to the stream at its base. I found the descent very abrupt and
difficult; the distance was one half mile. The water was running very
rapid; it had the same appearance as the water of the _Missouri_, being
filled with white sand. I followed this stream up for some distance, and
ascertained that its source was in Mount Hood; and from the appearance
of the banks, it seems that its waters swell during the night,
overflowing its banks, and subside again by day; it empties into
Deshute's river, having a sandy bottom of from two rods to half a mile
wide, covered with scrubby pines, and sometimes a slough of alder
bushes, with a little grass and rushes. We then ascended the mountain,
and as our stock of provisions was barely sufficient to last us through
the day, it was found necessary to return to camp. We retraced our steps
to where we had struck the bluff, and followed down a short distance
where we found the mountain of sufficiently gradual descent to admit of
the passage of teams; we could then follow up the bottom towards _Mount
Hood_, and as we supposed that this peak was the dividing ridge, we had
reasonable grounds to hope that we could get through. We then took our
trail in the direction of the camp; and late in the evening, tired and
hungry, we arrived at Rock creek, where we found our company encamped.
Barlow had not yet returned, but we resolved to push forward.
_October 6._ We remained in camp. As the grazing was poor in the timber,
and our loose cattle much trouble to us, we determined to send a party
with them to the settlement. The Indians had informed us that there was
a trail to the north, which ran over Mount Hood, and thence to Oregon
city. This party was to proceed up one of the ridges until they struck
this trail, and then follow it to the settlement. Two families decided
upon going with this party, and as I expected to have no further use for
my horse, I sent him with them. They were to procure provisions and
assistance, and meet us on the way. We had forwarded, by a company of
cattle-drivers from the Dalles, which started for the settlement on the
first of the {67} month, a request that they would send us provisions
and assistance; but as we knew nothing of their whereabouts, we had
little hope of being benefited by them.[110] The day was spent in making
the necessary arrangements for the cattle-drivers, and for working the
road. In the afternoon, Barlow and his party returned. They had taken
nearly the same route that we had; they had followed up the bluff of
this branch of the De Shutes, to within twelve or fifteen miles of Mount
Hood, where they supposed they had seen Willamette valley. They had then
taken the Indian trail spoken of, and followed it to one of the ridges
leading down to the river De Shutes; this they followed, and came out
near our camp. We now jointly adopted measures for the prosecution of
the work before us.
_October 7._ Early in the morning, the party designated to drive our
loose cattle made their arrangements, and left us. And as we supposed
our stock of provisions was insufficient to supply us until these men
returned, we dispatched a few men to the Dalles for a beef and some
wheat; after which, we divided our company so as that a portion were to
remain and take charge of the camp. A sufficient number were to pack
provisions, and the remainder were to be engaged in opening the road.
All being ready, each one entered upon the duty assigned him with an
alacrity and willingness that showed a full determination to prosecute
it to completion, if possible. On the evening of the 10th, we had opened
a road to the top of the mountain, which we were to descend to the
branch of the De Shutes.[111] The side of the mountain was covered with
a species of laurel bush, and so thick, that it was almost impossible to
pass through it, and as it was very dry we set it on fire. We passed
down and encamped on the creek, and during the night the fire had nearly
cleared the road on the side of the mountain.