lost cattle, were not returned, we remained in {29} camp yesterday. Game
seemed abundant along the creek, and our efforts to profit by it were
rewarded with three elk and three deer. To-day our cattle hunters still
remain behind. We sent back a reinforcement, and hitching up our teams
advanced about sixteen miles. Eight miles brought us to the Dalles of
Platte, where the river bursts through a mountain spur. Perpendicular
cliffs, rising abruptly from the water, five hundred or six hundred feet
high, form the left bank of the river. These cliffs present various
strata, some resembling flint, others like marble, lime, &c. The most
interesting feature of these magnificent masses, is the variety of
colors that are presented; yellow, red, black and white, and all the
shades between, as they blend and are lost in each other. On the top
nods a tuft of scrubby cedars. Upon the south side, a narrow slope
between the bluff and river, affords a pass for a footman along the
water's edge, while beyond the bluff rises abruptly. Frequently cedar
and wild sage is to be seen. I walked up the river a distance of half a
mile, when I reached a spot where the rocks had tumbled down, and found
something of a slope, by which I could, with the assistance of a long
pole, and another person sometimes pushing and then pulling, ascend; we
succeeded in clambering up to the top--which proved to be a naked, rough
black rock, with here and there a scrubby cedar and wild sage bush. It
appeared to be a place of resort for mountain sheep and bears. We
followed this ridge south to where it gradually descended to the road.
The river in this _kanyon_ is about one hundred and fifty yards wide,
and looks deep.[38] At the eastern end of this _kanyon_ comes in a
stream which, from appearance, conveys torrents of water at certain
seasons of the year. Here, too, is a very good camp. By going up the
right hand branch five or six miles, then turning to the right up one of
the ridges, and crossing a small branch (which joins the river six or
seven miles above the _kanyon_) and striking the road on the ridge three
miles east of the Big Timber creek, a saving might be made of at least
ten miles travel. We did not travel this route; but, from the appearance
of the country, there would be no difficulty.
_July 2._ This day we traveled about sixteen miles. The road left the
river bottom soon after we started. A trail, however, crosses the bottom
for about two miles, and then winds back to the hill. The nearest road
is up a small sandy ravine, for two miles, then turn to the right up a
ridge, and follow this ridge for eight or ten miles. At the distance of
thirteen {30} or fourteen miles, the road which turned to the left near
the Big Spring, connects with this. The road then turns down the hill to
the right, into a dry branch, which it descends to Big Timber creek,
where we encamped.[39]
_July 3._ This day we traveled about fifteen miles. Six miles brought us
to a small branch, where is a good camp. Near this branch there is
abundance of marble, variegated with blue and red, but it is full of
seams. The hills in this vicinity are of the red shale formation. In the
mountain near by is stone coal. The hills were generally covered with
grass. The streams are lined with cotton wood, willow and boxalder. The
road was very dusty.
_July 4._ We traveled about fifteen miles to-day, the road generally
good, with a few difficult places. Two wagons upset, but little damage
was done. We crossed several beautiful streams flowing from the Black
hills; they are lined with timber. To-day, as on yesterday, we found
abundance of red, yellow and black currants, with some gooseberries,
along the streams.
_July 5._ We this day traveled about twelve miles. Three miles brought
us to Deer creek.[40] Here is an excellent camp ground. Some very good
bottom land. The banks are lined with timber. Stone coal was found near
the road. This would be a suitable place for a fort, as the soil and
timber is better than is generally found along the upper Platte. Game in
abundance, such as elk, buffalo, deer, antelope and bear. The timber is
chiefly cotton wood, but there is pine on the mountains within ten or
twelve miles. The road was generally along the river bottom, and much of
the way extremely barren. We encamped on the bank of the river.
_July 6._ In traveling through the sand and hot sun, our wagon tires had
become loose; and we had wedged until the tire would no longer remain on
the wheels. One or two axletrees and tongues had been broken, and we
found it necessary to encamp and repair them. For this purpose all hands
were busily employed. We had neither bellows nor anvil, and of course
could not cut and weld tire. But as a substitute, we took off the tire,
shaved thin hoops and tacked them on the felloes, heated our tire and
replaced it. This we found to answer a good purpose.
_July 7._ This day we traveled about ten miles. In crossing a small
ravine, an axletree of one of the wagons was broken. {31} The road is
mostly on the river bottom. Much of the country is barren.
_July 8._ Six miles travel brought us to the crossing of the north fork
of the Platte. At 1 o'clock, P. M. all were safely over, and we
proceeded up half a mile to a grove of timber and encamped.[41] Near the
crossing was encamped Colonel Kearney's regiment of dragoons, on their
return from the South Pass. Many of them were sick.
_July 9._ We traveled about ten miles this day, and encamped at the
Mineral Spring. The road leaves the Platte at the crossing, and passes
over the _Red Buttes_.[42] The plains in this region are literally
covered with buffalo.
_July 10._ To-day we traveled about ten miles. The range is very poor,
and it has become necessary to divide into small parties, in order to
procure forage for our cattle. Out of the company five divisions were
formed. In my division we had eleven wagons; and we travel more
expeditiously, with but little difficulty in finding grass for our
cattle.
_July 11._ We this day traveled about twelve miles. Soon after starting
we passed an excellent spring: it is to the right of the road, in a
thicket of willows. One fourth of a mile further the road ascends a
hill, winds round and passes several marshy springs. The grass is very
good, but is confined to patches. Our camp was on a small branch running
into the Sweet Water.
_July 12._ This day we arrived at _Independence Rock_. This is a
solitary pile of gray granite, standing in an open plain. It is about
one-eighth of a mile long and some six or eight rods wide, and is
elevated about sixty or seventy feet above the plain. On the
north-eastern side the slope is sufficiently gradual to be easily
ascended. Portions of it are covered with inscriptions of the names of
travelers, with the dates of their arrival--some carved, some in black
paint, and others in red. Sweet Water, a stream heading in the Wind
River Mountains, and entering the Platte, runs immediately along its
southern side, leaving a strip of some twenty or thirty feet of grassy
plain between the base of the rock and the creek. We encamped two miles
above the rock, having traveled about thirteen miles.[43]
_July 13._ We traveled about thirteen miles this day. Three miles
brought us to the _Gap_, or _Devil's Gate_, as it is sometimes called.
The Sweet Water breaks through a spur of the mountain, which from
appearance is four or five hundred feet high. {32} On the south side the
rocks project over the stream, but on the north slope back a little. The
whole mountain is a mass of gray granite rock, destitute of vegetation,
save an occasional scrubby cedar or bush of artemisia. From where the
creek enters to where it emerges from this _kanyon_ is three or four
hundred yards. The water rushes through like a torrent. At the distance
of one hundred rods south of this is the Gap, where the road passes; but
the rock is not so high. South of this again is another gap, perhaps
half or three-fourths of a mile wide. The rocks there rise mountain
high.[44] South-west of this is a valley extending as far as the eye can
penetrate. As the road passes through this gap, it bears to the right,
up the valley of the Sweet Water.
_July 14._ This day we traveled about twenty-two miles. The road
sometimes leaves the creek for several miles, and passes over a barren,
sandy plain; no kind of vegetation but the wild sage. We this day met a
party of men from California and Oregon. A portion of those from
California spoke unfavorably of that country; and those from Oregon
spoke highly of the latter country. On this day's march we came in sight
of the long-looked-for snowcapped mountains. They were the Wind River
Mountains. On our right is a mass of naked rock; on our left and to the
distance of ten or twelve miles is a high range of mountains, mostly
covered with timber; whilst in the valley there is no timber, and much
of the plain entirely destitute of vegetation. We encamped near the
Narrows.[45]
_July 15._ We traveled about eleven miles to-day. There are two trails,
which diverge below the Narrows. The nearest and best is that to the
right up the creek, crossing it several times; they unite again near
where we encamped. The road was good, but as usual very dusty. Our
hunters wounded a buffalo, and drove him into camp. About twenty men ran
to meet him. He gave them battle. They fired a volley that brought him
to his knees, and whilst in that position Mr. Creighton (a young man
from Ohio) ran across the creek, intending to shoot the animal in the
head. When Creighton had approached within ten or twelve feet, the
enraged animal sprung to his feet and made at him. Creighton wheeled and
"split" for the camp; the buffalo pursuing to near the bank of the
creek, where he stopped. By this time others had arrived with guns, and
the buffalo was compelled to yield. In the "spree" one of my horses was
shot with a ball in the {33} knee; no bones were broken, and he was able
to travel, but he was a long time very lame.
_July 16._ This day we traveled about twenty-six miles. Four miles
brought us to a marshy bottom, where was very good grass. In the centre
of this quagmire and near where the road crosses the bottom is a spring
of good water. Eight miles brought us to a small stream; but little
grass. Six miles brought us to Sweet Water; crossed and left it and
struck it again in six or eight miles. The grass here is good. Wild sage
was our only fuel. This night there was a heavy frost.
_July 17._ Our cattle being much fatigued, we drove but five miles. The
road is up the creek bottom, which is mostly covered with grass. A heavy
frost: ice formed in buckets one-fourth of an inch thick. We here found
the celebrated mountaineer Walker, who was traveling to Bridger's
fort.[46]
_July 18._ We traveled about twenty-two miles this day. The road ascends
the bluff and winds among rocky hills for six miles, passing over ledges
that are entirely naked for rods. The appearance of the country is
extremely barren. We passed several rivulets where small parties may
obtain grazing for their stock. The day has been quite cold. The Wind
River Mountains are on our right, about twenty miles distant. They
presented a most grand appearance. Huge masses of ice and snow piled up
peak upon peak, with large bodies of timber covering portions of the
mountains. We viewed the southern termination of this range; but they
extend to the north further than the eye can penetrate. The country
between us and the mountains is rolling, and much of it apparently
barren. Hard frost.
_July 19._ This morning we ascended the bank on the south side of Sweet
Water. Six miles brought us again to the creek, where is good grass in
the bottom and willow for fuel. We crossed, went up the bottom two
miles, and crossed back and left the Sweet Water. _This day we passed
over the dividing ridge which separates the waters flowing into the
Atlantic from those which find their way into the Pacific Ocean._ WE HAD
REACHED THE SUMMIT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Six miles brought us to a
spring, the waters of which run into Green river, or the great Colorado
of the west.[47]--Here, then, we hailed OREGON. Here we found a bottom
covered with good grass, where we halted until four o'clock, P. M., when
we again hitched up and took the plain for Little Sandy. Ten miles
brought us to a dry branch, where by digging to the {34} depth of one
foot we procured water; but it was brackish, and had a very unpleasant
taste. A white sediment, such as we had noticed elsewhere on the road,
covered the surface of the ground. Ten miles more brought us to Little
Sandy, which we reached at one o'clock in the night, having traveled
thirty-one miles. The road was over a barren plain of light sand, and
was very dusty. From the spring to Little Sandy there is no vegetation
but the wild sage, and it had a withered appearance. The night was cold,
freezing quite hard. Little Sandy has its source in the Wind river
mountains.[48] Along this stream is a narrow bottom, covered with grass
and willows. We are now out of the range of the buffalo, and although
not often mentioned, we have seen thousands of these huge animals. There
have been so many companies of emigrants in advance of us, that they
have frightened the buffalo from the road. We daily see hundreds of
antelope.
_July 20._ This day we traveled about thirteen miles, to Big Sandy. The
road was over a level sandy plain, covered with wild sage. At Little
Sandy the road forks--one taking to the right and striking Big Sandy in
six miles, and thence forty miles to Green river, striking the latter
some thirty or forty miles above the lower ford, and thence to Big Bear
river, striking it about fifteen miles below the old road. By taking
this trail two and a half days' travel may be saved; but in the forty
miles between Big Sandy and Green river there is no water, and but
little grass. Camps may be had within reasonable distances between Green
and Bear rivers.[49] The left hand trail, which we took, twelve miles
from Little Sandy strikes the Big Sandy, follows down it and strikes
Green river above the mouth of Big Sandy.
_July 21._ We traveled about fourteen miles to-day. Six miles brought
us to Green river, or Colorado. This is a beautiful clear stream, about
one hundred yards wide, with a rapid current over a gravelly bottom. It
flows through a barren, sandy country; occasionally the bottoms spread
to a mile in width, covered with grass. There is mostly a belt of timber
along the banks of the stream.--Emigrants had been in the habit of
crossing the river on rafts. We succeeded in finding a place where, by
hoisting up the wagon-beds six inches, we could ford the river without
damaging our goods. This was done by cutting poles and placing them
under the wagon-beds, and in one hour we were all safely over. We
proceeded down the river eight miles, and encamped in a grove near some
{35} cabins built by a party of traders. There is an abundance of fish
in this stream, and we had great sport in fishing.
_July 23._ This day we traveled about fifteen miles. The road leaves
Green river near our camp, and passes over a high, barren country, to
Black's fork; this we followed up some four miles and encamped.[50] As
upon other streams, there is occasionally a grassy bottom with a little
cotton wood and willow brush. Snowy mountains to be seen in the south.
_July 24._ We traveled, to-day, about fourteen miles, over a barren
country, crossing the creek several times. We noticed a number of piles
of stone and earth, some forty or fifty feet high, scattered in
different directions, giving the appearance of the general surface
having been worn away to that extent by the ravages of time and the
elements.
_July 25._ This day we traveled about sixteen miles, crossed the creek
several times, and encamped near Fort Bridger. This is a trading fort
owned by Bridger and Bascus. It is built of poles and daubed with mud;
it is a shabby concern.[51] Here are about twenty-five lodges of
Indians, or rather white trappers' lodges occupied by their Indian
wives. They have a good supply of robes, dressed deer, elk and antelope
skins, coats, pants, moccasins, and other Indian fixens, which they
trade low for flour, pork, powder, lead, blankets, butcher-knives,
spirits, hats, ready made clothes, coffee, sugar, &c. They ask for a
horse from twenty-five to fifty dollars, in trade. Their wives are
mostly of the Pyentes and Snake Indians.[52] They have a herd of cattle,
twenty-five or thirty goats and some sheep. They generally abandon this
fort during the winter months. At this place the bottoms are wide, and
covered with good grass. Cotton wood timber in plenty. The stream
abounds with trout.
_July 26._ Remained at the fort the whole of this day.
_July 27._ We traveled about eight miles, to-day, to Little Muddy. The
grazing and water bad. Several bad hills.
_July 28._ To-day we traveled about sixteen miles. Ten miles brought us
to the Big Muddy.[53] Country barren. Our course is up the Big Muddy,
and nearly north. Encamped on the creek. Very poor grazing. This is a
limestone country.
_July 29._ This day we traveled about sixteen miles. Our course is still
up the Muddy. Emigrants would do well to push on up to near the head of
this creek, as the grass is good, {36} and there are excellent springs
of water. The country is very rough. We saw a few beaver dams.
_July 30._ We traveled about twenty-five miles this day. Twelve miles
brought us to the dividing ridge between the waters of Green and Bear
rivers. The ridge is high, but the ascent is not difficult. From this
ridge the scenery is most delightful. In one view is the meanders of
Muddy creek. Two companies with large herds of cattle are winding their
way up the valley.
The bold mountains on either side are very high and rugged. In front and
at the distance of twelve miles is the valley of Big Bear river. A
ravine at our feet cuts the spur of the mountain, and empties its waters
into Bear river. The valley of Bear river is four or five miles wide,
with willows along its banks. At a distance beyond the Bear river is a
range of high mountains, stretching as far as the eye can reach, their
snowy tops glistening in the rays of the sun. The mountains near the
trail are rough and have a singular appearance; the earth being of
various colors--black, white, red, yellow, and intermediate shades.
Occasionally there is a grove of quaking aspen, and a few sour-berry
bushes and some cedar. Our camp to-night was on Bear river; the bottom
is sandy, and mostly covered with wild sage.[54]
_July 31._ This day we traveled down Bear river fifteen miles. The
bottom is from two to four miles wide, and mostly covered with good
grass. The road excellent. We encamped two miles above Smith's fork. The
upper road from Green river comes in two miles back.
_August 1._ We traveled fifteen miles this day. Two miles brought us to
Smith's fork. This is a bold, clear, and beautiful stream, coming in
from the east. It is about fifteen yards wide, lined with timber and
undergrowth.[55] In this stream is an abundance of mountain trout, some
of them very large. The road leads down the bottom of Bear river three
miles to Spring branch, one mile to the Narrows and three miles to the
first crossing of Bear river.[56] Here are two trails. The nearest turns
to the right up a creek for a mile and a half, crosses the creek and
passes over the hill, and strikes the other trail at the foot of Big
Hill, six miles from the crossings. The other trail crosses the river,
follows up its bottom round the bend for eight miles, to where it
crosses the river, then follows down the bottom three miles, and takes
up a valley for one mile to the foot of the Big Hill, where it
intersects the other trail. This is the most level road, but the other
is not a bad one. {37} The hills bordering on Bear river on this day's
travel are very high and rugged; they are covered with grass. The
bottoms are from one to four miles wide. We saw this day large herds of
antelope. We encamped in the bend of the river, near the second
crossings.
_August 2._ This day we traveled about nineteen miles. Four or five
miles brought us to the big hill or mountain. It is about half a mile to
the top of the first ridge, and quite steep. The road then turns a few
rods to the right, then to the left down a ravine for three hundred
yards, and then up a ravine for half a mile to the top of the mountain.
We traveled about two miles along the ridge, and then turned to the left
down the mountain. It is about one mile to the plain, and generally very
steep and stony; but all reached the plain safely, and were truly
thankful that they had safely passed one of the most difficult mountains
on the road. From the top of this mountain we had a most delightful view
of the surrounding country. This is one of the ranges which border this
stream. At this place they close in upon both sides so as not to admit
of a passage with teams along the river. A road could easily be cut
around the point, and save the fatigue of climbing this mountain; the
distance would not be materially increased. The valley of Bear river
bears off to the northwest, and can be seen a great distance. From the
south comes in a broad valley, up which can be seen Bear Lake. A high
range of mountains separates it from the river. The outlet of this lake
is two or three miles below the narrows made by this mountain.[57] A
high range of snow covered mountains can be seen to the southwest. The
road strikes the river two miles from the foot of the mountain, at Big
Timber. Here is a good camp. Eight miles brought us to a spring branch.
The bottom here is wide; a low marsh prevents driving to the river. The
grass is good. There is a little timber on the mountains. At Big Timber
is a company of trappers and traders attached to Bridger's party.
_August 3._ We traveled about fourteen miles, crossing a number of
spring branches, coming in from the mountains. These branches abound in
trout. The ground, for a strip of about four miles, was covered with
black crickets of a large size. I saw some that were about three inches
in length, and measuring about three-fourths of an inch in diameter; but
the common size were two inches in length and one-half or five-eighths
of an inch in diameter; their legs were large in proportion {38} to the
size of their bodies. Some were singing on stalks of wild sage; others
crawling in every direction. Our teams made great havoc among them; so
numerous were they that we crushed them at every step. As soon as one
was killed, others of them would alight upon it and devour it. The
bottoms are wide, and covered with grass, and the soil looks well. A few
patches of snow were seen upon the mountain some ten miles distant. A
portion of the mountain is covered with fine timber. The bottoms are
rolling.