QUINCE JELLY.--Clean thoroughly good sound fruit, and slice thin.

Put into a double boiler with one cup of water for each five pounds of

fruit, and cook until softened. Express the juice, and proceed as with

other jellies, allowing three fourths of a pound of sugar to each pint

of juice. Tart or sweet apples may be used with quinces, in equal

proportions, and make a jelly of more pleasant flavor than quinces used

alone. The seeds of quinces contain considerable gelatinous substance,

and should be cooked with the quince for jelly making.

PLUM JELLY.--Use Damsons or Green Gages. Stone, and make in the

same way as for berry and other small fruit jellies.

FRUIT IN JELLY.--Prepare some apple jelly without sugar. When

boiled sufficiently to form, add to it, as it begins to cool, some nice,

stoned dates or seeded raisins. Orange jelly may be used instead of the

apple jelly, if preferred.

FRUIT JUICES.

As sauces for desserts and for summer beverages for sick or well, the

pure juices of fruits are most wholesome and delicious. So useful are

they and so little trouble to prepare, that no housewife should allow

the fruit season to pass by without putting up a full stock.

Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants, grapes, and cherries

are especially desirable. In preparing them, select only the best fruit,

ripe, but not over-ripe. Extract the juice by mashing the fruit and

slowly heating in the inner cup of a double boiler, till the fruit is

well scalded; too long heating will injure its color. Strain through a

jelly bag and let it drain slowly for a long time, but do not squeeze,

else some of the pulp will be forced through. Reheat slowly to boiling

and can the same as fruit. It may be put up with or without sugar. If

sugar is to be used, add it hot as for jelly, after the juice is

strained and reheated to boiling. For strawberries and currants,

raspberries and cherries, use one cup of sugar to a quart of juice.

Black raspberries and grapes require less sugar, while blueberries and

blackberries require none at all, or not more than a tablespoonful to

the quart. A mixed juice, of one part currants and two parts red or

black raspberries, has a very superior flavor.

_RECIPES._

GRAPE JUICE, OR UNFERMENTED WINE.--Take twenty-five pounds of some

well ripened very juicy variety of grapes, like the Concord. Pick them

from the stems, wash thoroughly, and scald without the addition of

water, in double boilers until the grapes burst open; cool, turn into

stout jelly bags, and drain off the juice without squeezing. Let the

juice stand and settle; turn off the top, leaving any sediment there may

be. Add to the juice about four pounds of best granulated sugar, reheat

to boiling, skim carefully, and can the same as fruit. Keep in a cool,

dark place. The wine, if to be sealed in bottles, will require a corker,

and the corks should first be boiled in hot water and the bottles well

sterilized.

GRAPE JUICE NO. 2.--Take grapes of the best quality, picked fresh

from the vines. Wash well after stripping from the stems, rejecting any

imperfect fruit. Put them in a porcelain or granite fruit kettle with

one pint of water to every three quarts of grapes, heat to boiling, and

cook slowly for fifteen minutes or longer, skimming as needed. Turn off

the juice and carefully filter it through a jelly bag, putting the seeds

and skins into a separate bag to drain, as the juice from them will be

less clear. Heat again to boiling, add one cupful of hot sugar to each

quart of juice, and seal in sterilized cans or bottles. The juice from

the skins and seeds should be canned separately.

ANOTHER METHOD.--Wash the grapes, and express the juice without

scalding the fruit. Strain the juice three or four times through muslin

or cheese cloth, allowing it to stand and settle for some time between

each filtering. To every three pints of juice add one of water and two

cupfuls of sugar. Heat to boiling, and keep at that temperature for

fifteen minutes, skim carefully, and bottle while at boiling heat. Set

away in a cool, dark place.

FRUIT SYRUP.--Prepare the juice expressed from strawberries,

raspberries, currants, or grapes, as directed above for fruit juices.

After it has come to a boil, add one pound of sugar to every quart of

juice. Seal in pint cans. It may be diluted with water to form a

pleasing beverage, and is especially useful in flavoring puddings and

sauces.

CURRANT SYRUP.--Boil together a pint of pure currant juice and one

half pound of best white sugar for ten minutes, and can or bottle while

at boiling temperature. One or two spoonfuls of the syrup in a glass of

water makes a most refreshing drink. Two parts currants and one of red

raspberries may be used in place of all currants, if preferred.

ORANGE SYRUP.--Select ripe and thin-skinned fruit. To every pint of

the juice add one pound of sugar, the juice of one lemon, and a little

of the grated rind. Boil for fifteen minutes, removing all scum as it

rises. If the syrup is not clear, strain through a piece of cheese

cloth, and reheat. Can and seal while boiling hot.

LEMON SYRUP.--Grate the yellow portion of the rind of six lemons,

and mix with three pounds of best granulated white sugar. Add one quart

of water and boil until it thickens. Strain, add the juice of the six

lemons, carefully leaving out the pulp and seeds; boil ten minutes, and

bottle. Diluted with two thirds cold water, it forms a delicious and

quickly prepared lemonade.

LEMON SYRUP NO. 2.--To every pint of lemon juice add one pound of

sugar; boil, skim, and seal in cans like fruit.

BLACKBERRY SYRUP.--Crush fresh, well-ripened blackberries, and add

to them one fourth as much boiling water as berries; let them stand for

twenty-four hours, stirring frequently. Strain, add a cup of sugar to

each quart of juice, boil slowly for fifteen minutes, and can.

FRUIT ICES.--Express the juice from a pint of stoned red cherries,

add the juice of two lemons, one cup of sugar and a quart of cold water.

Stir well for five minutes, an freeze in an ice cream freezer. Equal

parts currant and red raspberry juice may be used instead of cherry, if

preferred.

DRYING FRUIT.

This method of preserving fruit, except in large establishments where it

is dried by steam, is but little used, since canning is quicker and

superior in every way. Success in drying fruits is dependent upon the

quickness with which, they can be dried, without subjecting them to so

violent a heat as to burn them or injure their flavor.

Pulpy fruits, such as berries, cherries, plums, etc., should be spread

on some convenient flat surface without contact with each other, and

dried in the sun under glass, or in a moderate oven. They should be

turned daily. They will dry more quickly if first scalded in a hot oven.

Cherries should be first stoned and cooked until well heated through and

tender, then spread on plates, and the juice (boiled down to a syrup)

poured over them. When dried, they will be moist. Pack in jars. Large

fruit, such as apples, pears, and peaches, should be pared, divided, and

the seeds or stones removed. If one has but a small quantity, the best

plan is to dry by mean of artificial heat; setting it first in a hot

oven until heated through, which process starts the juice and forms a

film or crust over the cut surfaces, thus holding the remaining:

quantity of juice inside until it becomes absorbed in the tissues. The

drying process may be finished in a warming oven or some place about the

range where the fruit will get only moderate heat. If a larger quantity

of fruit is to be dried, after being heated in the oven, it may be

placed in the hot sun out of doors, under fine wire screens, to keep off

the flies; or may be suspended for the ceiling in some way, or placed

upon a frame made to stand directly over the stove. As the drying

proceeds, the fruit should be turned occasionally, and when dry enough,

it should be thoroughly heated before it is packed away, to prevent it

from getting wormy.

NUTS.

The nuts, or shell fruits, as they are sometimes termed, form a class of

food differing greatly from the succulent fruits. They are more properly

seeds, containing, in general, no starch, but are rich in fat and

nitrogenous elements in the form of vegetable albumen and casein. In

composition, the nuts rank high in nutritive value, but owing to the

oily matter which they contain, are difficult of digestion, unless

reduced to a very minutely divided state before or during mastication.

The fat of nuts is similar in character to cream, and needs to be

reduced to the consistency of cream to be easily digested. Those nuts,

such as almonds, filberts, and pecans, which do not contain an excess of

fat, are the most wholesome. Nuts should be eaten, in moderation, at the

regular mealtime, and not partaken of as a tidbit between meals. It is

likewise well to eat them in connection with some hard food, to insure

their thorough mastication. Almonds and cream crisps thus used make a

pleasing combination.

Most of the edible nuts have long been known and used as food. The

_Almond_ was highly esteemed by the ancient nations of the East, its

native habitat, and is frequently referred to in sacred history. It is

grown extensively in the warm, temperate regions of the Old World. There

are two varieties, known as the bitter and the sweet almond. The kernel

of the almond yields a fixed oil; that produced from the bitter almond

is much esteemed for flavoring purposes, but it is by no means a safe

article to use, at it possesses marked poisonous qualities. Fresh, sweet

almonds are a nutritive, and, when properly eaten, wholesome food. The

outer brown skin of the kernel is somewhat bitter, rough, and irritating

to the stomach but it can be easily removed by blanching.

Blanched almonds, if baked for a short time, become quite brittle, and

may be easily pulverized, and are then more easily digested. Bread made

from almonds thus baked and pulverized, is considered an excellent food

for persons suffering with diabetes.

_Brazil Nuts_ are the seeds of a gigantic tree which grows wild in the

valleys of the Amazon, and throughout tropical America. The case

containing these seeds is a hard, woody shell, globular in form, and

about the size of a man's head. It is divided into four cells, in each

of which are closely packed the seeds which constitute the so-called

nuts, of commerce. These seeds are exceedingly rich in oil, one pound of

them producing about nine ounces of oil.

The _Cocoanut_ is perhaps the most important of all the shell fruits, if

we may judge by the variety of uses to which the nut and the tree which

bears it can be put. It has been said that nature seldom produces a tree

so variously useful to man as the cocoanut palm. In tropical countries,

where it grows abundantly, its leaves are employed for thatching, its

fibers for manufacturing many useful articles, while its ashes produce

potash in abundance. The fruit is eaten raw, and in many ways is

prepared for food; it also yields an oil which forms an important

article of commerce. The milk of the fruit is a cooling beverage, and

the woody shell of the nut answers very well for a cup from which to

drink it. The saccharine juice of the tree also affords an excellent

drink; and from the fresh young stems is prepared a farinaceous

substance similar to sago.

The cocoanuts grow in clusters drooping from the tuft of long, fringed

leaves which crown the branchless trunk of the stately palm. The

cocoanut as found in commerce is the nut divested of its outer sheath,

and is much smaller in size than when seen upon the tree. Picked fresh

from the tree, the cocoanut consists first of a green outer covering;

next of a fibrous coat, which, if the nut is mature, is hairy-like in

appearance; and then of the woody shell, inside of which is the meat and

milk. For household purposes the nuts are gathered while green, and

before the inner shell has become solidified; the flesh is then soft

like custard, and can be easily eaten with a teaspoon, while a large

quantity of delicious, milk-like fluid is obtainable from each nut.

As found in our Northern markets, the cocoanut is difficult of

digestion, as is likewise the prepared or desiccated cocoanut. The

cocoanut contains about seventy per cent of oil.

The _Chestnut_ is an exception to most nuts in its composition. It

contains starch, and about fifteen per cent of sugar. No oil can be

extracted from the chestnut. In Italy, and other parts of Southern

Europe, the chestnut forms an important article of food. It is sometimes

dried and ground into flour, from which bread is prepared. The chestnut

is a nutritious food, but owing to the starch it contains, is more

digestible when cooked. The same is true of the _Acorn_, which is

similar in character to the chestnut. In the early ages, acorns were

largely used for food, and are still used as a substitute for bread in

some countries.

The _Hazelnut_, with the _Filbert_ and _Cobnut_, varieties of the same

nut obtained by cultivation, are among the most desirable nuts for

general consumption.

The _Walnut_, probably a native of Persia, where in ancient times it was

so highly valued as to be considered suited only for the table of the

king, is now found very commonly with other species of the same family,

the _Butternut_ and _Hickory nut_, in most temperate climates.

The _Pecan_, a nut allied to the hickory nut, and grown extensively in

the Mississippi Valley and Texas, is one of the most easily digested

nuts.

The _Peanut_ or _Groundnut_ is the seed of an annual, cultivated

extensively in most tropical and sub-tropical countries. After the plant

has blossomed, the stalk which produced the flower has the peculiarity

of bending down and forcing itself under ground so that the seeds mature

some depth beneath the surface. When ripened, the pods containing the

seeds are dug up and dried. In tropical countries the fresh nuts are

largely consumed, and are thought greatly to resemble almonds in flavor.

In this country they are more commonly roasted. They are less easily

digested than many other nuts because of the large amount of oily matter

which they contain.

_RECIPES._

TO BLANCH ALMONDS.--Shell fresh, sweet almonds, and pour boiling

water over them; let them stand for two or three minutes, skim out, and

drop into cold water. Press between the thumb and finger, and the

kernels will readily slip out of the brown covering. Dry between clean

towels. Blanched almonds served with raisins make an excellent dessert.

BOILED CHESTNUTS.--The large variety, knows as the Italian

chestnut, is best for this purpose. Remove the shells, drop into boiling

water, and boil for ten minutes, take out, drop into cold water, and rub

off the brown skin. Have some clean water boiling, turn the blanched

nuts into it, and cook until they can be pierced with a fork. Drain

thoroughly, put into a hot dish, dry in the oven for a few minutes, and

serve. A cream sauce or tomato sauce may be served with them if liked.

MASHED CHESTNUTS.--Prepare and boil the chestnuts as in the

preceding recipe. When tender, mash through a colander with a potato

masher. Season with cream and salt if desired. Serve hot.

TO KEEP NUTS FRESH.--Chestnuts and other thin-shelled nuts may be

kept from becoming too dry by mixing with an equal bulk of dry sand and

storing in a box or barrel in some cool place.

TABLE TOPICS.

Who lives to eat, will die by eating.--_Sel._

Fruit bears the closest relation to light. The sun pours a

continuous flood of light into the fruits, and they furnish the best

portion of food a human being requires for the sustenance of mind

and body.--_Alcott._

The famous Dr. John Hunter, one of the most eminent physicians of

his time, and himself a sufferer from gout, found in apples a remedy

for this very obstinate and distressing malady. He insisted that all

of his patients should discard wine and roast beef, and make a free

use of apples.

Do not too much for your stomach, or it will abandon you.--_Sel._

The purest food is fruit, next the cereals, then the vegetables. All

pure poets have abstained almost entirely from animal food.

Especially should a minister take less meat when he has to write a

sermon. The less meat the better sermon.--_A. Bronson Alcott._

There is much false economy: those who are too poor to have

seasonable fruits and vegetables, will yet have pie and pickles all

the year. They cannot afford oranges, yet can afford tea and coffee

daily.--_Health Calendar._

What plant we in the apple tree?

Fruits that shall dwell in sunny June,

And redden in the August moon,

And drop, when gentle airs come by,

That fan the blue September sky,

While children come, with cries of glee,

And seek there when the fragrant grass

Betrays their bed to those who pass

At the foot of the apple tree.

--_Bryant._

LEGUMES

The legumes, to which belong peas, beans, and lentils, are usually

classed among vegetables; but in composition they differ greatly from

all other vegetable foods, being characterized by a very large

percentage of the nitrogenous elements, by virtue of which they possess

the highest nutritive value. Indeed, when mature, they contain a larger

proportion of nitrogenous matter than any other food, either animal or

vegetable. In their immature state, they more nearly resemble the

vegetables. On account of the excess of nitrogenous elements in their

composition, the mature legumes are well adapted to serve as a

substitute for animal foods, and for use in association with articles in

which starch or other non-nitrogenous elements are predominant; as, for

example, beans or lentils with rice, which combinations constitute the

staple food of large populations in India.

The nitrogenous matter of legumes is termed _legumin_, or vegetable

casein, and its resemblance to the animal casein of milk is very marked.

The Chinese make use of this fact, and manufacture cheese from peas and

beans. The legumes were largely used as food by the ancient nations of

the East. They were the "pulse" upon which the Hebrew children grew so

fair and strong. According to Josephus, legumes also formed the chief

diet of the builders of the pyramids. They are particularly valuable as

strength producers, and frequently form a considerable portion of the

diet of persons in training as athletes, at the present day. Being foods

possessed of such high nutritive value, the legumes are deserving of a

more extended use than is generally accorded them in this country. In

their mature state they are, with the exception of beans, seldom found

upon the ordinary bill of fare, and beans are too generally served in a

form quite difficult of digestion, being combined with large quantities

of fat, or otherwise improperly prepared. Peas and lentils are in some

respects superior to beans, being less liable to disagree with persons

of weak digestion, and for this reason better suited to form a staple

article of diet.

All the legumes are covered with a tough skin, which is in itself

indigestible, and which if not broken by the cooking process or by

thorough mastication afterward, renders the entire seed liable to pass

through the digestive tract undigested, since the digestive fluids

cannot act upon the hard skin. Even when the skins are broken, if served

with the pulp, much of the nutritive material of the legume is wasted,

because it is impossible for the digestive processes to free it from the

cellulose material of which the skins are composed. If, then, it be

desirable to obtain from the legumes the largest amount of nutriment and

in the most digestible form, they must be prepared in some manner so as

to reject the skins. Persons unable to use the legumes when cooked in

the ordinary way, usually experience no difficulty whatever in digesting

them when divested of their skins. The hindrance which even the

partially broken skins are to the complete digestion of the legume, is

well illustrated by the personal experiments of Prof. Strümpell, a

German scientist, who found that of beans boiled with the skins on he

was able to digest only 60 per cent of the nitrogenous material they

contained. When, however, he reduced the same quantity of beans to a

fine powder previous to cooking, he was enabled to digest 91.8 per cent

of it.

The fact that the mature legumes are more digestible when prepared in

some manner in which the skins are rejected, was doubtless understood in

early times, for we find in a recipe of the fourteenth century,

directions given "to dry legumes in an oven and remove the skins away

before using them."

The green legumes which are more like a succulent vegetable are easily

digested with the skins on, if the hulls are broken before being

swallowed. There are also some kinds of beans which, in their mature

state, from having thinner skins, are more readily digested, as the

Haricot variety.

SUGGESTIONS FOR COOKING.--The legumes are best cooked by stewing or

boiling, and when mature, require prolonged cooking to render them

tender and digestible. Slow cooking, when practicable, is preferable.

Dry beans and peas are more readily softened by cooking if first soaked

for a time in cold water. The soaking also has a tendency to loosen the

skins, so that when boiled or stewed, a considerable portion of them

slip off whole, and being lighter, rise to the top during the cooking,

and can be removed with a spoon; it likewise aids in removing the strong

flavor characteristic of these foods, which is considered objectionable

by some persons. The length of time required for soaking will depend

upon the age of the seed, those from the last harvest needing only a few

hours, while such as have been kept for two or more years require to be

soaked twelve or twenty-four hours. For cooking, soft water is best. The

mineral elements in hard water have a tendency to harden the casein, of

which the legumes a largely composed, thus rendering it often very

difficult to soften them.

The dry, unsoaked legumes are generally best put to cook in cold water,

and after the boiling point is reached, allowed to simmer gently until

done. Boiling water may be used for legumes which have been previously

soaked. The amount of water required will vary somewhat with the heat

employed and the age and condition of the legume, as will also the time

required for cooking, but as a general rule two quarts of soft water

for one pint of seeds will be quite sufficient. Salt should not be added

until the seeds are nearly done, as it hinders the cooking process.

PEAS.

DESCRIPTION.--The common garden pea is probably a native of

countries bordering on the Black Sea. A variety known as the gray pea

(_pois chiche_) has been used since a very remote period. The common

people of Greece and Rome, in ancient times made it an ordinary article

of diet. It is said that peas were considered such a delicacy by the

Romans that those who coveted public favor distributed them gratuitously

to the people in order to buy votes.

Peas were introduced into England from Holland in the time of Elizabeth,

and were then considered a great delicacy. History tells us that when

the queen was released from her confinement in the tower, May 19, 1554,

she went to Staining to perform her devotions in the church of

Allhallows, after which she dined at a neighboring inn upon a meal of

which the principal dish was boiled peas. A dinner of the same kind,

commemorative of the event, was for a long time given annually at the

same tavern.

Peas, when young, are tender and sweet, containing a considerable

quantity of sugar. The nitrogenous matter entering into their

composition, although less in quantity when unripe, is much more easily

digested than when the seeds are mature.

When quite ripe, like other leguminous seeds, they require long cooking.

When very old, no amount of boiling will soften them. When green, peas

are usually cooked and served as a vegetable; in their dried state, they

are put to almost every variety of use in the different countries where

they are cultivated.

In the southeast of Scotland, a favorite food is made of ground peas

prepared in thick cakes and called peas-bainocks.

In India and southern Europe, a variety of the pea is eaten parched or

lightly roasted, or made into cakes, puddings, and sweetmeats. In

Germany, in combination with other ingredients, peas are compounded into

sausages, which, during the Franco-Prussian war, served as rations for

the soldiers.

Science in the Kitchen A Scientific Treatise On Food Substances and Their Dietetic Properties, Together with a Practical Explanation of the Principles of Healthful Cookery, and a Large Number of Original, Palatable, and Wholesome Recipes · 第 18 / 50 段