Sometimes the fruit will settle so that a little space appears at the

top. If you are perfectly sure that the can is tight, do not open to

refill, as you will be unable to make it quite as tight again, unless

you reheat the fruit, in which case you would be liable to have the same

thing occur again. Air is dangerous because it is likely to contain

germs, though in itself harmless.

If mold is observed upon the top of a can, it should be opened, and the

fruit boiled and used at once, after carefully skimming out all the

moldy portions. If there is evidence of fermentation, the fruit should

be thrown away, as it contains alcohol.

If care be taken to provide good cans, thoroughly sterilized, and with

perfectly fitting covers; to use only fruit in good condition; to have

it thoroughly cooked, and at boiling temperature when put into the can;

to have the cans well baked and heated, filled completely and to

overflowing, and sealed at once while the fruit is still near boiling

temperature, there will be little likelihood of failure.

OPENING CANNED FRUIT.--Canned fruit is best opened a short time

before needed, that is may be will aërated; and if it has been canned

without sugar, it should have the necessary quantity added, so that it

may be well dissolved before using.

Fruit purchased in tin cans should be selected with the utmost care,

since unscrupulous dealers sometimes use cans which render the fruit

wholly--unfit for food.

The following rules which we quote from a popular scientific journal

should be 'carefully observed in selecting canned fruit:--

"Reject every can that does not have the name of the manufacturer or

firm upon it, as well as the name of the company and the town where

manufactured. All 'Standards' have this. When the wholesale dealer is

ashamed to have his name on the goods, be shy of him.

"Reject every article of canned goods which does not show the line of

resin around the edge of the solder of the cap, the same as is seen on

the seam at the side of the can.

"Press up the bottom of the can; if decomposition is beginning, the tin

will rattle the same as the bottom of your sewing-machine oil can does.

If the goods are sound, it will be solid, and there will be no rattle to

the tin.

"Reject every can that show any rust around the cap on the inside of the

head of the can. Old and battered cans should be rejected; as, if they

have been used several times, the contents are liable to contain small

amounts of tin or lead"

_RECIPES._

TO CAN STRAWBERRIES.--These are generally considered more difficult

to can than most other berries. Use none but sound fruit, and put up the

day they are picked, if possible. Heat the fruit slowly to the boiling

point, and cook fifteen minutes or longer, adding the sugar hot, if any

be used, after the fruit is boiling. Strawberries, while cooking, have a

tendency to rise to the top, and unless they are kept poshed down, will

not be cooked uniformly, which is doubtless one reason they sometimes

fail to keep well. The froth should also be kept skimmed off. Fill the

cans as directed on page 197, taking special care to let out every air

bubble, and to remove every particle of froth from the top of the can

before sealing. If the berries are of good size, the may be cooked in

the cans, adding a boiling syrup prepared with one cup of water and one

of sugar for each quart can of fruit.

If after the cans are cold, the fruit rises to the top, as it frequently

does, take the cans and gently shake until the fruit is well saturated

with the juice and falls by its own weight to the bottom, or low enough

to be entirely covered with the liquid.

TO CAN RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, AND OTHER SMALL FRUITS.--Select

none but good, sound berries; those freshly picked are best; reject any

green, over-ripe, mashed, or worm-eaten fruit. If necessary to wash the

berries, do so by putting a quart at a time in a colander, and dipping

the dish carefully into a pan of clean water, letting it stand for a

moment. If the water is very dirty, repeat the process in a second

water. Drain thoroughly, and if to be cooked previous to putting in the

cans, put into a porcelain kettle with a very small quantity of water,

and heat slowly to boiling. If sugar is to be used, have it hot, but do

not add it until the fruit is boiling; and before doing so, if there is

much juice, dip out the surplus, and leave the berries with only a small

quantity, as the sugar will have a tendency to draw out more juice, thus

furnishing plenty for syrup.

Raspberries are so juicy that they need scarcely more than a pint of

water to two quarts of fruit.

The fruit may be steamed in the cans if preferred. When thoroughly

scalded, if sugar is to be used, fill the can with a boiling syrup made

by dissolving the requisite amount of sugar in water; if to be canned

without sugar, fill up the can with boiling water or juice.

Seal the fruit according to directions previously given.

TO CAN GOOSEBERRIES.--Select such as are smooth and turning red,

but not fully ripe; wash and remove the stems and blossom ends. For

three quarts of fruit allow one quart of water. Heat slowly to boiling;

cook fifteen minutes, add a cupful of sugar which has been heated dry

in the oven: boil two or three minutes longer, and can.

TO CAN PEACHES.--Select fruit which is perfectly ripe and sound,

but not much softened. Free-stone peaches are the best. Put a few at a

time in a wire basket, and dip into boiling water for a moment, and then

into cold water, to cool fruit sufficiently to handle with comfort. The

skins may then be rubbed or peeled off easily, if done quickly, and the

fruit divided into halves; or wipe with a clean cloth to remove all dirt

and the wool, and with a silver knife cut in halves, remove the stone,

and then pare each piece, dropping into cold water at once to prevent

discoloration. Peaches cut before being pared are less likely to break

in pieces while removing the stones. When ready, pour a cupful of water

in the bottom of the kettle, and fill with peaches, scattering sugar

among the layers in the proportion of a heaping tablespoonful to a quart

of fruit. Heat slowly, boil fifteen minutes or longer till a silver fork

can be easily passed through the pieces; can in the usual way and seal;

or, fill the cans with the halved peaches, and place them in a boiler of

warm water with something underneath to avoid breaking; cook until

perfectly tender. Have ready a boiling syrup prepared with one half cup

of sugar and two cups of water, and pour into each can all that it will

hold, remove air bubbles, cover and seal. A few of the pits may be

cooked in the syrup, and removed before adding to the fruit, when their

special flavor is desired.

ANOTHER METHOD.--After paring and halving the fruit, lay a clean napkin

in the bottom of a steamer; fill with fruit. Steam until a fork will

easily penetrate the pieces. Have ready a boiling syrup prepared as

directed above, put a few spoonfuls in the bottom of the hot cans, and

dip each piece of fruit gently in the hot syrup; then as carefully place

it in the jars. Fill with the syrup, and finish in the usual way.

Peaches canned without sugar, retain more nearly their natural flavor.

To prepare in this way, allow one half pint of water to each pound of

fruit. Cook slowly until tender, and can in the usual manner. When

wanted for the table, open an hour before needed, and sprinkle lightly

with sugar.

TO CAN PEARS.--The pears should be perfectly ripened, but not soft.

Pare with a silver knife, halve or quarter, remove the seeds and drop

into a pan of cold water to prevent discoloration. Prepare a syrup,

allowing a cup of sugar and a quart of water to each two quarts of

fruit. When the syrup boils, put the pears into it very carefully, so as

not to bruise or break them, and cook until they look clear and can be

easily pierced with a fork. Have the cans heated, and put in first a

little of the syrup, then pack in the pears very carefully; fill to

overflowing with the scalding syrup, and finish as previously directed.

The tougher and harder varieties of pears must be cooked till nearly

tender in hot water, or steamed over a kettle of boiling water, before

adding to the syrup, and may then be finished as above. If it is

desirable to keep the pears whole, cook only those of a uniform size

together; or if of assorted sizes, put the larger ones into the syrup a

few minutes before the smaller ones. Some prefer boiling the kins of the

pears in the water of which the syrup is to be made, and skimming them

out before putting in the sugar. This is thought to impart a finer

flavor. Pears which are very sweet, or nearly tasteless, may be improved

by using the juice of a large lemon for each quart of syrup. Pears may

be cooked in the cans, if preferred.

TO CAN PLUMS.--Green Gages and Damsons are best for canning. Wipe

clean with a soft cloth. Allow a half cup of water and the same of sugar

to every three quarts of fruit, in preparing a syrup. Pick each plum

with a silver fork to prevent it from bursting, and while the syrup is

heating, turn in the fruit, and boil until thoroughly done. Dip

carefully into hot jars, fill with syrup, and cover immediately.

TO CAN CHERRIES.--These may be put up whole in the same way as

plums, or pitted and treated as directed for berries, allowing about two

quarts of water and a scant pint of sugar to five quarts of solid fruit,

for the tart varieties, and not quite half as much sugar for the sweeter

ones.

TO CAN MIXED FRUIT.--There are some fruits with so little flavor

that when cooked they are apt to taste insipid, and are much improved by

canning with some acid or strongly flavored fruits.

Blackberries put up with equal quantities of blue or red plums, or in

the proportion of one to three of the sour fruit, are much better than

either of these fruits canned separately. Black caps are much better if

canned with currants, in the proportion of one part currants to four of

black caps.

Red and black raspberries, cherries and raspberries, are also excellent

combinations.

QUINCES WITH APPLES.--Pare and cut an equal quantity of firm sweet

apples and quinces. First stew the quinces till they are tender in

sufficient water to cover. Take them out, and cook the apples in the

same water. Lay the apples and quinces in alternate layers in a

porcelain kettle or crock. Have ready a hot syrup made with one part

sugar to two and a half parts water, pour over the fruit, and let it

stand all night. The next day reheat to boiling, and can.

Quinces and sweet apples may be canned in the same way as directed below

for plums and sweet apples, using equal parts of apples and quinces, and

adding sugar when opened.

PLUMS WITH SWEET APPLES.--Prepare the plums, and stew in water

enough to cover. When tender, skim out, add to the juice an equal

quantity of quartered sweet apples, and stew until nearly tender. Add

the plumbs again, boil together for a few minutes, and can. When wanted

for the table, open, sprinkle with sugar if any seems needed, let stand

awhile and serve.

TO CAN GRAPES.--Grapes have so many seeds that they do not form a

very palatable sauce when canned entire. Pick carefully from the stems,

wash in a colander the same as directed for berries, and drain. Remove

the skins, dropping them into one earthen crock and the pulp into

another. Place both crocks in kettles of hot water over the stove, and

heat slowly, stirring the pulp occasionally until the seeds will come

out clean.

Then rub the pulp through a colander, add the skins to it, and a cupful

of sugar for each quart of pulp. Return to the fire, boil twenty minutes

until the skins are tender, and can; or, if preferred, the whole grapes

may be heated, and when well scalded so that the seeds are loosened,

pressed through a colander, thus rejecting both seeds and skins, boiled,

then sweetened if desired, and canned.

TO CAN CRAB APPLES.--These may be cooked whole, and canned the same

way as plums.

TO CAN APPLES.--Prepare and can the same as pears, when fresh and

fine in flavor. If old and rather tasteless, the following is a good

way:--several thin slices of the yellow part of the rind, four cups of

sugar, and three pints of boiling water. Pare and quarter the apples, or

if small, only halve them, and cook gently in a broad-bottomed

closely-covered saucepan, with as little water as possible, till tender,

but not broken; then pour the syrup over them, heat all to boiling, and

can at once. The apples may be cooked by steaming over a kettle of hot

water, if preferred. Care must be taken to cook those of the same degree

of hardness together. The slices of lemon rind should be removed from

the syrup before using.

TO CAN PINEAPPLES.--The writer has had no experience in canning

this fruit, but the following method is given on good authority: Pare

very carefully with a silver knife, remove all the "eyes" and black

specks; then cut the sections in which the "eyes" were, in solid pieces

clear down to the core. By doing this all the valuable part of the fruit

is saved, leaving its hard, woody center. As, however, this contains

considerable juice, it should be taken in the hands and wrung as one

wrings a cloth, till the juice is extracted, then thrown away. Prepare a

syrup with one part sugar and two parts water, using what juice has been

obtained in place of so much water. Let it boil up, skim clean, then add

the fruit. Boil just as little as possible and have the fruit tender, as

pineapples loses its flavor by overcooking more readily than any other

fruit. Put into hot cans, and seal.

FRUIT JELLIES.

The excess of sugar commonly employed in preparing jellies often renders

them the least wholesome of fruit preparations, and we cannot recommend

our readers to spend a great amount of time in putting up a large stock

of such articles.

The juice of some fruits taken at the right stage of maturity may be

evaporated to a jelly without sugar, but the process is a more lengthy

one, and requires a much larger quantity of juice than when sugar is

used.

Success in the preparation of fruit jellies depends chiefly upon the

amount of pectose contained in the fruit. Such fruits as peaches,

cherries, and others containing but a small proportion of pectose,

cannot be made into a firm jelly. All fruit for jelly should, if

possible, be freshly picked, and before it is over-ripe, as it has then

a much better flavor. The pectose, the jelly-producing element,

deteriorates with age, so that jelly made from over-ripe fruit is less

certain to "form." If the fruit is under-ripe, it will be too acid to

give a pleasant flavor. Examine carefully, as for canning, rejecting all

wormy, knotty, unripe, or partially decayed fruit. If necessary to wash,

drain very thoroughly.

Apples, quinces, and similar fruits may require to be first cooked in a

small amount of water. The juice of berries, currants, and grapes, may

be best extracted by putting the fruit in a granite-ware double boiler,

or a covered earthen crock placed inside a kettle of boiling water,

mashing as much as possible with a spoon, and steaming without the

addition of water until the fruit is well scalded and broken.

For straining the juice, have a funnel-shaped bag made of coarse flannel

or strong, coarse linen crash. The bag will be found more handy if a

small hoop of wire is sewn around the top and two tapes attached to hang

it by while the hot juice is draining, or a wooden frame to support the

bag may be easily constructed like the one shown on page 74. A dish to

receive the juice should be placed underneath the bag, which should

first be wrung out of hot water, and the scalded fruit, a small quantity

at a time, turned in; then with two large spoons press the sides of the

bag well, moving the fruit around in the bag to get out all the juice,

and removing the pressed pulp and skins each time before putting in a

fresh supply of the hot fruit. If a very clear jelly is desired, the

juice must be allowed to drain out without pressing or squeezing. The

juice of berries, grapes, and currants may be extracted without the

fruit being first scalded, if preferred, by putting the fruit into an

earthen or granite-ware dish, and mashing well with a wooden potato

masher, then putting into a jelly bag and allowing the juice to drain

off for several hours.

When strained, if the jelly is to be prepared with sugar, measure the

juice and pour it into a granite or porcelain fruit kettle with a very

broad bottom, so that as much surface can be on the stove possible. It

is better to boil the juice in quantities of not more than two or three

quarts at a time, unless one has some utensil in which a larger quantity

can be cooked with no greater depth of liquid than the above quantity

would give in a common fruit kettle. The purpose of the boiling is to

evaporate the water from the juice, and this can best be accomplished

before the sugar is added. The sugar, if boiled with the juice, also

darkens the jelly.

The average length of time required for boiling the juice of most

berries, currants, and grapes, extracted as previously directed, before

adding the sugar, is twenty minutes from the time it begins to bubble

all over its surface. It is well to test the jelly occasionally,

however, by dropping a small quantity on a plate to cool, since the

quantity of juice and the rapidity with which it is boiled, may

necessitate some variation in time. In wet season, fruits of all kinds

absorb more moisture and a little longer boiling may be necessary. The

same is true of the juice of fruits gathered after a heavy rain. Jellies

prepared with sugar are generally made of equal measures of juice,

measured before boiling, and sugar; but a very scant measure of sugar is

sufficient, and a less amount will suffice for many fruits. White

granulated sugar is best for all jellies. While the juice is heating,

spread the sugar evenly on shallow tins, and heat in the oven, stirring

occasionally to keep it from scorching. If portions melt, no great harm

will be done, as the melted portions will form in lumps when turned into

the juice, and can be removed with a spoon. When the juice has boiled

twenty minutes, turn in the sugar, which should be so hot that the hand

cannot be borne in it with comfort, stirring rapidly until it is all

dissolved. Let the syrup boil again for three or four minutes, then take

immediately from the fire. Heat the jelly glasses (those with glass

covers are best), by rolling in hot water, and place them in a shallow

pan partially filled with hot water, or stand them on a wet, folded

towel while filling. If it is desired to have the jelly exceptionally

clear and nice, it may be turned through a bag of cheese cloth,

previously wrung out of hot water, into the jelly glasses. If the covers

of the glasses are not tight fitting, a piece of firm paper should be

fitted over the top before putting on the cover, to make it air tight.

Pint self-sealing fruit cans are excellent for storing jelly, and if it

is sealed in them in the same manner as canned fruit, will keep

perfectly, and obviate any supposed necessity for the use of brandied

paper as a preservative measure. Label each variety, and keep in some

cool, dry place. If the jelly is not sufficiently firm when first made,

set the glasses in the sunshine for several days, until the jelly

becomes more firm. This is better than reheating and boiling again, as

it destroys less of the flavor of the fruit.

_RECIPES._

APPLE JELLY.--Cut nice tart apples in quarters, but unless wormy,

do not peel or core. Put into a porcelain kettle with a cup of water for

each six pounds of fruit, and simmer very slowly until the apples are

thoroughly cooked. Turn into a jelly-bag, and drain off the juice. If

very tart, allow three fourths of a pound of sugar to each pint of

juice. If sub-acid, one half pound will be sufficient. Put the sugar

into the oven to heat. Clean the kettle, and boil the juice therein

twenty minutes after it begins to boil thoroughly. Add the sugar,

stirring until well dissolved, let it boil up once again, and remove

from the fire. The juice of one lemon may be used with the apples, and a

few bits of lemon rind, the yellow portion only, cooked with them to

give them a flavor, if liked. One third cranberry juice makes a pleasing

combination.

APPLE JELLY WITHOUT SUGAR.--Select juicy, white fleshed, sub-acid

fruit, perfectly sound and mature but not mellow. The snow apple is one

of the best varieties for this purpose. Wash well, slice, and core

without removing the skins, and cook as directed in the preceding

recipe. Drain off the juice, and if a very clear jelly is desired,

filter it through a piece of cheese cloth previously wrung out of hot

water. Boil the juice,--rapidly at first, but more gently as it becomes

thickened,--until of the desired consistency. The time required will

vary with the quantity of juice, the shallowness of the dish in which it

is boiled, and the heat employed. One hour at least, will be required

for one or two quarts of juice. When the juice has become considerably

evaporated, test it frequently by dipping a few drops on a plate to

cool; and when it jellies sufficiently, remove at once from the fire. A

much larger quantity of juice will be needed for jelly prepared in this

manner than when sugar is used, about two quarts of juice being required

for one half pint of jelly. Such jelly, however, has a most delicious

flavor, and is excellent served with grains. Diluted with water, it

forms a most pleasing beverage.

BERRY AND CURRANT JELLIES.--Express the juice according to the

directions already given. For strawberries, red raspberries, and

currants, allow three fourths of a pound of sugar to a pint of juice.

Black raspberries, if used alone, need less sugar. Strawberry and black

raspberry juice make better jelly if a little lemon juice is used. The

juice of one lemon to each pint of fruit juice will be needed for black

raspberries. Two parts red or black raspberries with one part currants,

make a better jelly than either alone. Boil the juice of strawberries,

red raspberries, and currants twenty minutes, add the sugar, and finish,

as previously directed. Black raspberry juice is much thicker, and

requires less boiling.

CHERRY JELLY.--Jelly may be prepared from cherries by using with

the juice of cherries an equal amount of apple juice, which gives an

additional amount of pectose to the juice and does not perceptibly

change the flavor.

CRAB APPLE JELLY.--Choose the best Siberian crab apples; cut into

pieces, but do not pare or remove seeds. Place in a porcelain-lined or

granite-ware double boiler, with a cup of water for each six pounds of

fruit, and let them remain on the back of the range, with the water

slowly boiling, seven or eight hours. Leave in the boiler or turn into a

large china bowl, and keep well covered, all night. In the morning drain

off the juice and proceed as for apple jelly, using from one half to

three fourths of a pound of sugar to one of juice.

CRANBERRY JELLY.--Scald the berries and express the juice for other

jellies. Measure the juice, and allow three fourths of a pound of sugar

to one of juice. Boil twenty minutes, add the sugar hot, and finish as

directed for other jellies.

GRAPE JELLY.--Jelly from ripe grapes may be prepared in the same

manner as that made from the juice of berries. Jelly from green grapes

needs one half measure more of sugar.

ORANGE JELLY.--Express the juice of rather tart oranges, and use

with it an equal quantity of the juice of sub-acid apples, prepared in

the manner directed for apple jelly. For each pint of the mixed juice,

use one half pound of sugar and proceed as for other jellies.

PEACH JELLY.--Stone, pare, and slice the peaches, and steam them in

a double boiler. Express the juice, and add for each pint of peach juice

the juice of one lemon. Measure the juice and sugar, using three fourths

of a pound of sugar for each pint of juice, and proceed as already

directed. Jelly prepared from peaches will not be so firm as many fruit

jellies, owing to the small amount of pectose contained in their

composition.

A mixture of apples and peaches, in the proportion of one third of the

former to two thirds of the latter, makes a firmer jelly than peaches

alone. The apples should be pared and cored, so that their flavor will

not interfere with that of the peaches.

Science in the Kitchen A Scientific Treatise On Food Substances and Their Dietetic Properties, Together with a Practical Explanation of the Principles of Healthful Cookery, and a Large Number of Original, Palatable, and Wholesome Recipes · 第 17 / 50 段