Descending towards the new Weir by a course not less rugged than that by
which we ascended, the fatigue we had undergone, was amply repaid by the
gratification we received in some of the most beautiful views that can
be imagined. These presented themselves through the various breaks of
the rocks, or openings of the surrounding woods with which they are
enriched. The serpentine winding of the river, and the vast prominencies
and fantastic forms of the rocks in its vicinity, give an air of solemn
gloom and grandeur to the scene. From the approach to the Weir, the
annexed view was selected, it comprises all the principal objects that
could be admitted within the limits of a scale so circumscribed. The
innumerable circumstances that aid this grand and sublime scene, are
such as to render it almost impossible for the pencil, to render it
justice. The iron forges on the opposite side of the river, not less
from their appearance than from the important purposes they answer in
human life, give an interest to this effusion of nature, while the awful
sound of the iron hammers beating the fiery mass, awakens in the mind
new sensations giving dignity and grandeur to the subject. This
picturesque scene is much heightened by the immense volumes of sparkling
smoak that are continually issuing from the forges, these give a
pleasing though transitory relief to the sombre, and distant hills that
terminate the view. Around these works are scattered great masses of
half burned ore, coal, and cinders, and interspersed on the barren and
extensive moor in the vicinity, are many humble cottages of the various
workmen employed in the manufactory. The roaring of the waters from the
cascade of the Weir adjoining to this work has a grand effect, its fall
is precipitate although at no great height, nor is it perceived from
above the stream.
The river here receives a considerable degree of agitation from the huge
masses of stone, either swept down by the stream, or hurled from the
summit of the neighbouring rocks. Here the Wye increases in width, and
its current is so strong, that it is with extraordinary labour and
difficulty the barges are towed up. I have seen eight or ten men
throwing themselves on the earth on every pull, to give force to their
exertions.
In this part of the river is frequently seen a small fishing boat on a
singular construction, called a corricle, it is ribbed with laths or
split twigs, and is covered with a strong pitched canvas, to prevent its
leaking, it is about five feet and a half long and four broad. In the
middle is a seat that holds one man, who sits with a paddle in one hand
while he fishes with the other. His labour finished, he throws the
corricle over his shoulder and retires to his home.
A little below the weir the river scenery is terminated by what is
called King Arthur’s plain, or Doward hills. To the traveller who is
bold enough to attempt the summit of these hills, the views will afford
ample variety both in the beautiful and sublime. Camden conjectures,
that on these hills there has anciently been a fortification, and what
makes it more probable is, that in digging there for iron ore, and lime
stone, he says “broad arrow heads have been found, and not long ago, the
greatest part of the bones of a gigantic person were found here
interred, in a place “that seemed to be arched over.” Whatever may have
been the ancient destination of this spot, its present attractions
proceed from the very extensive and richly diversified prospects that
present themselves from every point of view. On a spot adjoining to the
wood on the extremity of this hill, is a cavern that bears the name of
King Arthur’s Hall; it is said to extend by a passage from hence to the
new weir, a distance of about a mile. Many fabulous and romantic tales
have been attached to the history of this hall, but the fact appears to
be simply this, that it was a cavern, from whence was dug a rich mine of
iron ore, that supplied the adjoining furnaces.
A detached cluster of rocks called St. Martins’, or the three Sisters,
somewhat resembling but much inferior to those at Cold-well, skirt the
river in passing down, near which at a short reach called St. Martin’s
Well, the stream is supposed to have a greater depth of water than in
any other part. At the extremity of this reach from a beautiful vale,
King Arthur’s plain again presents itself, assuming a new and
castellated form, and here every stroak of the oar gives variety to the
scene, and every object seems to vary its situation. The vast assemblage
of rocks we have just contemplated, appear to vanish and melt into a
distant hill, rising from a craggy base on the margin of the river.
About two miles before we reach Monmouth, Hadnock house and the beauties
of its situation justly demand our attention. It is situated on the edge
of the forest of Dean, and stands on the brow of a hill, commanding a
fascinating view of the meandering Wye, that gently glides beneath its
rocky hills: these are enriched with verdant coppice woods that screen
this beautiful spot, the residence of the Rev. Dr. Griffin, whom we have
before mentioned. From hence along the base of the hills, a road running
parallel with the river that leads on to Monmouth.