About a mile below Ross, Wilton Castle first attracts our attention.
This ruin is situated on the margin of the Wye, and affords with its
surrounding objects in many points of view, scenes not unworthy the
attention of the antiquary or admirer of picturesque objects. Its
western walls and round towers are in the most perfect state of
preservation, but the annexed view, comprising a part of the bridge, is
selected as most appropriate to the design of this work and to exemplify
the course of the river. The castle has formerly covered a considerable
extent of ground, the greater part of which is now used as a garden.
Camden says “that king John gave Wilton with the castle to Henry
Longchamp and that it came by marriage to William Fitzhugh, and not long
after, in King Edward the first’s time, to Reginald Grey, Justice of
Chester, from whom by a long descent it came to Lord Grey of Wilton,
whose son Arthur Lord Grey was Lord Deputy of Ireland.” This noble
person merits particular attention, as having been the early patron of
our Spencer the poet, who accompanied him to Ireland as his secretary.
In the county of Cork, at a place called Kilcolman, Spencer is reported
to have finished his excellent poem of the Fairy Queen. The River Mulla,
so often mentioned by him, ran through the grounds of the house in which
he resided. His gratitude to his patron is thus recorded, in a sonnet
addressed to him, and is prefixed to the poem.
“Most noble lord the pillor of my life,
“And patrone of my muses pupillage:
“Through whose large bountie, poured on me rife
“In the first season of my feeble age,
“I nowe doe live bound yours by vassalage;” &c.
At what period Wilton Castle went out of the family of the Greys is not
mentioned, but it afterwards belonged to the Lord Chandos, from whom it
descended to the duke of Chandos who built Canons in Middlesex. The
remains of this castle, with Aconbury, Dewfall, and other considerable
estates in the neighbourhood belonging to this family, amounting to near
four thousand pounds per annum, were sold some years ago to the
governors of Guy’s Hospital. The castle is reported to have been
principally destroyed by fire, but at what period is not ascertained. In
support of this idea we observed, that towards the ends of the timbers,
many of them appeared to have been much burned. On this spot an
assemblage of rich and woody scenery, forms the leading feature of the
vicinity of our river, and about two miles below Wilton bridge I would
advise the admirer of the truly grand in landscape, to ascend the hill
in the high road to Monmouth, where at a place called Pencreek, the eye
is feasted with one of the most magnificent views this river affords.
The distant church of Ross, its neighboring woods and hills, and the
meandering course of the Wye, all combine from hence to form this
fascinating scene. Here the course of the river is peculiarly marked,
its channel is nobly formed, and wears a grandeur not to be met with in
any other river we have yet seen in this country.
Amidst a variety of enchanting views, passing from one bend of the river
to another, Goodrich castle, on the summit of a bold promontory, amidst
an elegant woodland scene, nobly raises its ruined battlements, as if
frowning on the stream beneath.
On ascending the hill to contemplate the spoils of Time, who ravages
alike the forms of beauty and the tower of strength, by leaving for a
moment the ordinary path and passing up what is called Conduit hill,
Walford church, Ross, and the surrounding country, at a happy distance,
combine to form a landscape of peculiar richness and beauty. History
does not inform us at what period this castle was erected, but we find
that early as the fifth year of the reign of King John, William
Marshall, Earl of Pembroke had a grant of it. From this family it came
to Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, in the reign of Edward the third, and in
the twentieth year of Richard the second, Sir John Scudamore of Holme
Lacy was constituted its constable, during the minority of John Lord
Talbot, in whose family it continued till the fourteenth of James the
First; at which period Gilbert Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury died, leaving
three daughters his coheiresses. Elizabeth the second daughter was
married to Henry de Grey, Earl of Kent, by which marriage he became
possessor of this manor, which continued in the family till the death of
Henry Duke of Kent in 1740, after which it was sold to Thomas Griffin,
Esq.; Vice Admiral of the White, whose second son, the Reverend Dr.
Griffin of Hadnock near Monmouth, is its present owner.
This celebrated castle was nearly square, covering a space of ground
forty eight yards by fifty two; it was defended at each angle by four
large round towers, one of which formed an irregular Heptagon. Through a
perfect Gothic arch, we are led to a spacious hall of good proportion
overgrown with ivy, adjoining which is an area, presenting the remains
of a lofty square building, with circular arched windows in the Saxon
style, resembling Gundulph’s tower at Rochester castle. By the fragment
of a stone staircase, we ascend another embattled tower, through which
at a great depth appears the immense fosse, or trench, which is hewn out
of a solid rock, and is twenty yards in breadth. Here was once a
draw-bridge and two gates with recesses between each, evidently intended
as places of safety for its guards, who unseen might annoy the enemy.
The various points from which this castle may be viewed to advantage,
would afford ample matter for the antiquary, artist, and military
architect.
Quitting this spot, several views of the castle presented themselves,
but they were all undignified and uninteresting when compared with those
we had before contemplated. The country on the opposite side of the
river towards the village of Walford, is peculiarly beautiful. In the
church of Walford, one of the aisles is now called Kyrle’s chapel; it
was erected by that family for their private use, before it became a
parochial church; about a mile below the castle, is a small remain of
Goodrich priory; a few Gothic windows are yet standing, and part of the
chapel which is now converted to a granary; the whole affords an object
sufficient to attract the notice of the curious.
[Illustration: Black-and-white engraving of a group of connected
buildings with steep gabled roofs, small arched windows, and two crosses
at the roof peaks. A set of exterior steps and a small platform stand at
the center, with a cart in front. A tall tree rises at the right side.]
This priory was a monastery of the order of black cannons regular of St.
Augustine, founded and endowed with the king’s licence in the twentieth
year of Edward the fourth, 1347. Its situation corresponds with the
happy choice usually made by the ancient possessors of religious houses,
it stands in a fertile valley, watered by one of the finest rivers in
the kingdom. The building with the lands contiguous to the castle are
occupied by a Mr. Bellamy. From the ascent, approaching the village of
Goodrich a rich and extensive view presents itself across the forest of
Dean, from whence Rure-dean church happily breaks upon the eye.
Here the Wye in a long and serpentine reach, appears in a perspective
point of view and affords a pleasing and happy termination to the
scenery; its banks are screened on the south, by an extensive coppice
wood, and on the north, by fertile meadows rising towards Bishop’s-wood,
from which a considerable iron furnace in this vicinity derives its
name. From the stone quarries in this neighborhood, the new bridge at
Bristol was principally erected.
Passing down the river, the next object that attracts our notice is
Courtfield, the seat of the Vaughan family.
This spot is rendered remarkable from Henry the fifth having been nursed
in the neighbourhood. That prince we are told, was when young of a weak
and sickly habit, and was placed under the care of a countess of
Salisbury, from which circumstance in all probability, the original name
of this place which was Greyfield, was changed to the appellation it now
bears. We next approach Lidbroke colliery and very large and extensive
wharf, from whence a considerable commerce in coals is carried on to
Ross, Hereford and other places. This productive mine is the property of
Lord Gage. With all the dark and dingy attributes of this place,
involved as it is in smoke, and begirt with coal barges, it yet affords
a very pleasing and interesting landscape. The high road that ascends
the woody hill, screening the back ground of this wharf, is perpetually
enlivened by horses and carriages in this sooty sable commerce, while on
the bank of the river beneath, the lading and unlading the vessels,
afford additional business and variety to the scene. This view is finely
contrasted on a sudden bend of the river a little below, where all is
tranquil and serene. The picturesque village of Welch Bicknor presents
itself in a rich valley on the right bank of the Wye, happily overshaded
by a thicket of woods, ranged in a grand and circular sweep. These are
called Hawkwood and Packwood, and extend about a mile along the bank of
the river. The village church and parsonage house, group in a form
peculiarly beautiful and interesting.
In the body of the church, fronting the reading desk, is a cumbent whole
length female figure, well sculptured in a darkish coloured stone.
Traditional report says it represents the countess of Salisbury, whom we
have just mentioned as having nursed king Henry the fifth. She holds a
child in each arm. This effigy is highly worthy of notice. The drapery
is in a loose and free style, and the general contour of the whole
bespeaks it the work of an artist of talent. A little below this scene,
the Wye is bounded on the opposite shore by a long range of hills,
beautifully cloathed with verdure, and diversified by a rich and broken
soil of a warm and reddish hue, frequently over clouded with shades of
smoak that issue from the various kilns, kept continually burning near
this spot. These circumstances trifling and adventitious as they may
appear, give relief and effect to the picturesque and beautiful in
landscape. Approaching the foot of Cold-well rocks, a scene sublime and
majestic presents itself. The grand prominencies are overhung with
richly varied tufts of oak, and other shrubberies, occasionally
contrasted and relieved by deep and shadowy dells, formed by the various
lime kilns on their surface. Some of the most prominent of Cold-well
rocks, we are informed, have by some gentlemen of the bar, in their
passage down this river, been christened after the names of our
principal council. The connection is not obvious, or readily traced.
Here we quitted the barge to ascend these majestic rocks, which by an
immense and craggy steep, we with difficulty accomplished, and reached
the summit called Symond’s Gate. This task, arduous as it is should not
deter the traveller from pursuing this course, as by means of it he will
avoid a dull and uninteresting passage on the water of full three miles
to the new Weir, and by passing over these rocks he will enjoy a
sublimity of scenery that will amply repay his toil and labour. As we
ascend these superb masses of stone, the rich and extensive scenery that
surrounds us, is every moment unfolding itself: the summit is richly
overgrown with wild thyme, and variegated flowers, and is crowned with
the rich and deep foliage of the noble oak
“Here all the air a solemn stillness holds”
save the distant lowing of cattle, and from his rocky bed, the dirge
like evening song of the owl, that floats along the gale.
From hence Goodrich castle, which we imagined we had left far behind,
breaks suddenly upon the eye, and appears from the immense winding of
the river to be a near object. The new weir, and adjoining waterfall,
with the surrounding rich and healthy hills afford from this spot a
combination of objects, that deservedly rank among the first views on
the river, or perhaps in this country.
The village of Whitechurch in the centre of the vale beneath, with the
vast hills beyond it, afford a sublime termination to this reach of the
river.
At Whitechurch is a second ferry called Hunson’s Rope. This ferry
although seven miles distant by water from that of Goodrich, is only one
mile by land, a striking instance of the very appropriate and
characteristical title of our river, which from its mazy and circuitous
course, is justly denominated the Vaga, or Wye.