Quitting Hadnock, we are gratified with a distant view of the bridge and
town of Monmouth. The solitary church of Dixton on the opposite bank of
the river, although deficient in accompaniments is yet a characteristic
and interesting feature in the fore ground of the landscape; and it
continues to be such, though since this drawing was executed, its
interior received in the great flood in 1795 very material injury; the
water having forced its way through the windows and doors, and torn up
pulpit, pews and pavement.
Monmouth bridge is of stone, and consists of six irregular arches. The
town derives its name from its situation at the conflux of the Wye and
Mynwye, generally, and by the Welsh particularly pronounced Monnow.
A great part of Monmouth is encompassed by this river which empties
itself into the Wye at the lower end of the town; where a very ancient
bridge and gateway, formerly a barrier against the Welsh, is thrown
across this mountain stream. It is somewhat extraordinary, that neither
history or tradition, although they are both mentioned by Leland in his
itinerary, afford any information as to the period in which they were
built. Independent however of historical evidence, they bear such
unequivocal marks of antiquity, that the picturesque effect they
produce, gives them ample claim to a place in this work. The annexed
plate will we flatter ourselves, convey a faithful representation of
this venerable remain, and in some degree illustrate the situation of
the town itself; which though low, is seated in a spot at once both
pleasing and romantic.
Monmouth had anciently four gates, and the suburb was defended by a wall
and deep ditch on each side, except that next the river. As far back as
Leland’s time, the walls and every other embattled part but the square
tower were in a state of ruin. The church is an entire modern structure.
Monmouth has high claim to consideration and respect, from its having
given birth to our fifth Henry the conqueror of France, whose active
spirit, warlike qualities, and superior skill in horsemanship,
particularly at a time when to be accomplished, was indispensible to the
character of a gentleman, and the cavalry service began to be in a
manner appropriated to men of this rank, are thus enchantingly, and with
all the ease and grace of the gallant and princely horseman he
describes, delineated by our matchless bard.
“I saw young Harry with his beaver on,
“His cuiffes on his thighs, gallantly arm’d,
“Rise from the ground like feather’d Mercury,
“And vaulted with such ease into his seat
“As if an angel dropp’d down from the clouds,
“To turn and wind a fiery pegasus,
“And witch the world with feats of horsemanship.”
Henry was born in the castle of Monmouth, of which little more remains
than a few fragments of walls, and an elevation or mound of earth, just
sufficient to ascertain its site; and to demonstrate how evanescent and
transitory are all human things; the strong embattled fortress as well
as the cradle of princes. Such once were to be found on this spot; and
that this awful truth may be more strongly impressed and exemplified,
though there yet remains more visible and palpable evidence of one than
of the other, let it be remembered, that the record of history will
retain the memory of the birth place of Henry, when all traces of the
castle shall have passed away, and even its site shall as ineffectually
be sought after as at this hour the image of its former splendour.
In this castle Edward the second, after he had been made prisoner by his
queen Isabella, in 1326, was for a time confined. Having in the south
west direction of the town, with some difficulty obtained a sketch of
the ruin of the castle that partakes much of the picturesque, it is here
given as an illustration of this venerable spot. The river Monnow
beautifully winds beneath its ruined walls, the wooden bridge that is
thrown across the stream, and the rich and verdant scenery of its hilly
bank, all conspire to produce a landscape highly deserving a place in
this work. The remains of the castle, denote it to be of Roman
construction, Camden says that from the king’s records, a castle was
standing here in a flourishing state, as early as the time of William
the Conqueror, and that it was rebuilt by John Baron of Monmouth, about
the year 1240.
This town has not only the honor of giving birth to a great king, but
likewise to a great historian, Galfredius Arthurius, Bishop of St.
Asaph, better known by the name of Jeffery of Monmouth. He is supposed
to have been educated at this place, which had then a benedictine
monastery, or convent of black monks, founded in 1240 by Wihenoe de
Monemue, or Monmouth. Monasteries were at that time the principal
seminaries for learning in this country, as Oxford and Cambridge had not
then risen to any great celebrity, and were at that period much
depressed in consequence of the Danish invasion. Jeffery was made arch
deacon of Monmouth in 1251, and was soon afterwards created bishop of
St. Asaph. He translated the history of Britain from the British
language into Latin, a work said to have been discovered by Walter
Mapæus while in Armorica, and brought by him into England, where meeting
with Jeffery of Monmouth, a man profoundly versed in the history and
antiquities of Britain, and an elegant writer for the period in which he
lived the task was entrusted to him. Merlin’s prophecies he also
translated from British verse into Latin prose. This work was of
essential service to the Welch chieftain Owen Glyndwr, whose high
pretensions to soveriegnty were constantly favoured and cherished by
these prophecies. The veracity of Jeffery, as an historian, has been
doubted by many; Camden says that his relation of Brutus and his
successors ought to be entirely disregarded. It may however be observed
in favour of this writer, from the testimony of Giraldas Cambrensis his
contemporary, that at that period the Welch bards and minstrels from
early traditional accounts, received and transmitted with a mixture of
religious reverence and awe, solemnly repeated the genealogy of their
princes and heroes, from Roderic the Great to Æneas, and from Æneas
lineally to Adam.
If this should not altogether be thought to add much to their probable
authenticity, it will serve to warrant the introduction of the history,
to shew at least that he was not the author of the fiction; and, in
tracing the origin of nations, tales to the full as fabulous are to be
met with in the pages of many of our gravest and approved writers.
To the few early historians of our own we owe much, and amongst these
Jeffery deserves every respect, and we are bound to regret that in
succeeding times, the best histories of this country will be found to
have been the labors of foreigners. A fragment of Monmouth Priory, we
have preserved as a tribute to the memory of the historian who was there
educated: The Gothic window that appears in view remains very perfect,
and appertains to a venerable ancient chamber, which he is reported to
have occupied as a study. From the nature of its foundation, the free
school at Monmouth particularly deserves our notice. Burton, in his
history of Wales, gives this relation of William Jones its founder: he
says, “Wm. Jones was born at Monmouth, and forced to quit his country
for not being able to pay ten groats. Coming to London he became first a
porter, and then a factor; and going over to Hamburgh, had such a vent
for Welch cottons, that he gained a very considerable estate in a short
time. He founded a fair school in Monmouth, allowing fifty pounds yearly
to the master, and a hundred pounds salary to a lecturer, besides a
stately alms-house for twenty poor people, each of them having two rooms
and a garden, and half a crown a week; all which he left to the
oversight of the company of haberdashers in London, who discharge their
trust therein to this day.” Another account of the founder is thus
given, but with less credibility. That he was a native of Newland, a few
miles distant from Monmouth, and having quitted it when young to seek
his fortune, he returned at an advanced period of life, in an apparent
state of indigence, although very rich, and applied to his native town
for relief as a pauper, which being refused, he took his revenge on the
people by retiring to Monmouth, and there dispensing that wealth, that
was intended to enrich his native place.
We cannot quit the pleasant town of Monmouth without noticing the
massive pile of its gaol. Built in a lofty and healthy spot, and in the
form of an ancient castle; it frowns over the country, and impresses the
idea of rigorous confinement and the impossibility of escape. At the
time we visited this expensive and spacious work, it contained only one
solitary inhabitant, and he a prisoner for only a very trivial offence.
As our gaols increase in magnitude, it is with pleasure we have
frequently had occasion to remark that there is a decrease of
inhabitants, nor is it less worthy of observation that the humanity of
supplying even those who least deserve it, with decent accommodation, as
well as the blessing of light and air, before denied to them, is now
most liberally granted.
Perhaps it may not be too much to infer from hence, that the immensity
of the bulk of these buildings, in the conspicuous situation in which
they are now placed, may impress the multitude with such a terror of the
consequence of crimes, as in some degree to prevent a commission of
them. This building stands on an eminence, and commands a fine view of
the town and surrounding country.