Rootie and I are thinking of writing to the Mayor at Rheims to find out

who it is that counts the number of shells falling in that town daily!

It must be a splendid job, and the person who has it is delightfully

accurate. Every day we see by the paper just how many thousand have

fallen, except once, when they "fell so fast" it was impossible to keep

count. How awful it is to make fun of it, and yet one has to make fun of

something about this terrible, terrible war.

Betty Potter has given me my wonderful package. When I saw the wrapper

and Daddy's writing, and all the flags and ribbon, I just almost went to

pieces, but Miss Whittier being with me, I couldn't. I tore home, and

didn't go in to luncheon, but sat and read and read and read. Oh, you

dear, dear people, how did you ever think of doing such a wonderful

thing? It pleased and thrilled me so that I am still walking on air. And

the money. Oh, we do need it so, particularly just now! I shall write

every one slowly, as I get time, but will you just tell everybody what a

wonderful time it gave me, and how I can't possibly express myself? All

I can say is, thank you, thank you all, over and over again. It was

pretty mighty good of you.

I had already spent eighteen francs of Daddy's money on a hot-water

bottle for a poor dear old lady refugee, who is dying of cancer. It is

only a question of time. Her two daughters care for her now. We have

installed them, and are trying to make the end easier for them all. I

found on one of my visits that they used a heated plate to give her

relief when she had attacks in the night. The hot-water bottle is a

great help, and they are pathetically grateful. I shall write you as to

just what we do with all the money. Oh, you don't know how much it

means! The little pins have gone like lightning. It is so sweet to see

the joy that they give the children. Incidentally the various "workers"

have grabbed them also. Rootie is downtown this minute buying bright

ribbons for the children. It will be too marvelous to have new ribbons

to give them.

Mrs. Shurtleff is driving with Miss Curtis to the front, or rather the

evacuated district, next week. She has an opportunity and is seizing it,

you can be sure. If we get enough clothes from America these next few

months and can afford it, we are going to establish a regular station,

and deliver clothes per Ford every fifteen days, and I shall do the

driving!!! To say that the idea thrills me barely describes it. Of

course, she is taking Miss Curtis this time because she is older and is

the head worker, but next time she will take me. I can't tell you how I

long to hear the guns and actually see some of the things that I have

been hearing about for so long. It will be splendid.

The new jitney, having finally arrived, proves much more satisfactory

than the old ambulance body. I will send you some pictures of it soon.

We live on our balcony now, for the spring has really come. We purchased

a chaise-longue and cushions at nine dollars, and take turns lying out

on it. The balcony is so small we can only have one. We are just at the

height of the tree-tops, and now the leaves are out and the little

garden in front of us in the Square has many Japanese apple trees. The

air is lovely; with the moon at night, it is marvelous. We hate to go to

bed at all.

I have got to stop now. Lots and lots of love to every one, and thank

you again for the package of letters.

MARJE.

XVI

FROM MARJORIE

Sunday, May 13, 1917.

DEAREST FAMILY:--

Here I am out at Saint-Germain again, this time quite differently,

though. Betty Colt and I planned several weeks ago to have a day in the

country together; we have both been so busy that we haven't got round to

it until to-day. We planned to take the 8.04 train out, but, owing to a

thunder-shower at five this morning,--which caused me to rise and go out

on the balcony to rescue our precious chaise-longue, getting soaked in

the process,--and its looking so dismal and so like permanent rain, I

went back to bed and slept until 8.15! So we did not take the 8.04, but

the 10.04. It rained a little on the way out, but now, after a delicious

and filling dinner, we are sitting in the garden, writing at one of

those little green iron tables. For a nation that has such good taste in

most things, I think it remarkable the lack of taste the French have in

garden furniture! Betty having never been out here before, the first

thing we did was to go out to the Terrace. On the way, we passed a Ford

standing by the roadside, which had a familiar air. The number also

seemed like ours,--so I pulled out my license card (which I keep with me

always,--I am so afraid of ever missing an opportunity to drive through

not having papers), and found that it was our "other car,"--in other

words, the car Miss Curtis hires from Mrs. Gage and runs for the

Association and for herself over Sundays. You see, your license over

here is a complicated affair, and has, among other things, the numbers

of the car or cars you drive. I am saving, by the bye, all the extra

papers that I have had to possess since I left home. It will be fun

going over them together when I get back. Being clever children, we

decided that Miss Curtis must be near by,--if her car was here,--so we

rambled around and found her, and also Mr. and Mrs. Bowditch and Mrs.

Sturgis and Miss Sturgis, all lunching at the François I^{er}. We went in

and said "How do you do?" to them, warned them how expensive the place

is, and, after leaving a few chocolates, we went on to the Bois. We get

a marvelous variety of chocolates out here--pure chocolate all the way

through, called disque d'or, on account of a little daub or touch of

real gold on each one. Somewhat the same idea as that eau de vie with

beaten gold in it that we used to have sometimes.

I intend to stand Betty up this afternoon and get some good pictures of

her to send you. She is such a dear. I hate to think of her leaving

Paris in three weeks, but Dr. Gibbons goes to Houlgate for the summer,

and, strange as it may seem, he takes his secretary "mit" him! One

comfort is that she is going to Houlgate, which is on the ocean, and she

has already asked me to spend a week-end with her. This means that I

will get a swim--hurrah! My prospects of having a vacation this summer

seem to diminish as the time goes on. Mrs. Shurtleff and Mrs. Newsom are

going to take two months off, but with Mrs. Sturgis gone (she sails this

Saturday with her mother and father), I guess that the workers who

remain will simply take week-ends off, or perhaps a week. We are now

planning a wonderful week-end party, starting for Houlgate early some

Saturday morning--Rootie, Elizabeth Baldwin, Mr. Griffiths, Bryant,

Simmons, Mayo, and myself--in an auto, arriving in the afternoon, and

getting a swim, some tennis, some food, a peek at Deauville probably,

playing with Betty, and all coming back either Sunday afternoon or

Monday morning. Doesn't that sound pretty nice? I haven't the slightest

idea that we will ever really do this--but we plan it at our Friday

night parties every week now. If we do go, Heaven knows what I expect to

wear.

[Illustration: "Bettina" at Saint-Germain]

[Illustration: Le Cèdre at Saint-Germain]

I am wondering just what I planned in my mind to wear this spring, when

I left home. My faithful purple suit continues. It is, if possible, more

faded than ever. Rootie has offered me every conceivable kind of a bribe

to have it cleansed, and I think I may! I have bought a hat, round and

black with feathers curling round the edge, which, with my black silk

dress (which has turned from my only evening dress into my street

dress), is my costume for teas! I have one new waist; otherwise I have

nothing. To-morrow being my day off, I plan to shop. I must get some

thinner stockings, these woolen ones are killing me by inches. You just

try cranking a Ford car for hours at a time in woolen stockings! I have

got to get up my courage and buy some white skirts, although I hate

to--waists are bad enough. It is a bit disconcerting to be told that I

wear a 46! Why, why, don't we all use the same system of measuring

clothes, coal, essence, and lots of things? It would save so much

trouble.

Rootie and I have at last realized our ambition, and have persuaded the

lady who was in the big room next door to us to change with

Rootie--thereby giving us a salon. We use my room for a sleeping-room,

and the big one for a regular salon. With Rootie's piano and my sofa and

chairs, it is very nice-looking, and will be such a joy. We have not

been able to ask the crowd to come back to our house after Friday night

supper, for instance. Now we are going to play "pounce" and bridge and

all sorts of things in our salon. The extra room divided between us

costs me only one franc more,--namely, eleven francs instead of ten

francs,--and I think that it is well worth while. Also Mrs. Shurtleff

strongly recommended our doing it. Last night I was sitting at the table

writing,--Rootie on the other side sewing,--and suddenly, for no reason

whatsoever, my chair simply collapsed under me! I never had such a funny

sensation. As Rootie said, one minute I was there and the next I

wasn't--I was under the table! I left so early this morning that I did

not see Mme. H----, so Rootie has the fun of telling her about it!

However, she will not mind, I am sure. She is very, very good to us. She

keeps her table up very well, and that, with the good service and clean

rooms, is pretty fine, I can tell you. For instance, we had creamed

potatoes and cauliflower in a baking dish for the first course yesterday

noon, followed by cold asparagus with French dressing (second course),

cold meat and noodles, and ended with the usual cream cheese and

confiture.

Every time I have asparagus I can't help thinking of the wonderful green

"asperge" you people are having. It is nearly all white over here, and

although very nice, not nearly as good as ours from Marion--naturally.

Rumors of Russia making a separate peace are frequent here just now. Dr.

Gibbons and many others feel that she is not to be reckoned with one way

or the other any more. They blame the failure of the spring offensive

partially on Russia's lack of support. The submarines are evidently not

getting everything. We have received nine cases lately--the first in a

long time. Mr. Barbour at the American Clearing House says that eleven

hundred or more arrived in Paris this week. We are glad, for we need

everything we can get just now. The typewriter paper, I am very much

afraid, has not come through; still there is always hope. (Neither lot

has arrived.)

Rheims seems to be suffering particularly just now. Every day a list of

the houses ruined by shells or fire is posted downtown, and the poor

refugees go and stand and read whether "theirs" is gone yet. It seems to

be only a question of time before it will be a completely destroyed

city. All the soldiers and officers say that Verdun was bloody, but this

last month's defensive is twice as severe. Both sides are evidently

losing frightfully. In a great many ways I am glad that I am in Paris,

and not London. I believe that we will be able to outlast the English in

many ways--food and soldiers. Coal seems to be the greatest lack just

now, and yet as a whole there seems to be enough. The new meat

regulation amounts to very little. Few poor people ever ate meat at

night, and those who want to simply buy enough in the morning.

I was at the Ritz the other day seeing Roxy Bowen that was,--now Mrs. W.

Stephen Van Rensselaer,--and on her way to Rome with the Honorable

Stephen. They came via the Spanish line, and I gathered that the voyage

left much to be desired. Among the tales she told (most of which needed

a little salt, I imagine), was one of an egg dropped in the corridor and

not cleaned up during the whole trip! She was the only American aboard.

Personally I think I should prefer the submarines and the French line. I

started to say that everything seemed very normal at the Ritz, only we

could not have cake with our tea, it being Tuesday. Of course, it was

just my usual luck to be asked to tea at the Ritz on a cakeless day! I

have been told several times that more chocolates have been sold this

last year than any time during the last ten years--think of it! Of

course, a tremendous amount is sent to the front. It is a favorite thing

to send, but even with that taken into consideration, it seems odd,

doesn't it?

Speaking of sending to the front, I have taken on a Serbian soldier as a

partial filleul, on the condition that I don't have to write him. I send

him monthly packages, but anonymously,--as Rootie said, "Regular

Daddy-Long-Legs stuff"! I have seen so many foolish--and sometimes worse

than that--letters from these filleuls to their marraines that I have

been scared off. But I couldn't bear to have him starve to death. His

name not only is not Hippolyte, but is utterly unpronounceable--sneeze

twice, cough, and end with "sky," and you are as near it as I ever have

been!

Paris, Thursday.

What very deceptive things maps are, anyway. Do you remember the day we

looked up Denfert-Rochereau on the map? We all hunted for it, and

finally located it, surrounded with stations, morgue, catacombs, orphan

asylums, and goodness knows what else. I wonder if you have the same

picture that I had of it before I arrived? As a matter of fact, I only

discovered the station a few weeks ago--so you can see how well it is

hidden. The other cheering institutions do not exist, as far as I can

see, and I don't care to look them up. What does exist is a large

square, with a big statue of the Lion of Belfort in the middle. He is

our landmark, as it were, when we are coming home. From any direction,

there he stands, or rather lies, and that means "home" in a certain

sense to us. There is a perfectly lovely garden in front of our house,

and another beside us--between our block and Mrs. Shurtleff's. Both

gardens have Japanese apple trees or cherry trees, and at night, when we

lie on our balcony, the scent is perfectly lovely. As we are only two

flights up, we are just at the height of the tree-tops, so it is

deliciously cool, and, except for the children in the park, one can

hardly believe one is in the city. Having these two parks and a square

beyond, you can imagine what very good air we get, and that makes such a

difference here. Besides the æsthetic qualities, this house is located

at the end of a taxi-stand, which we can see by standing on a chair on

the balcony. As taxis are few and far between here these days, it is

pretty cute for us to have our own stand!

You may notice that I am following your excellent advice and am

numbering this letter No. one. Meant to begin last week, but forgot, so

here goes. Heaven help me if I miss out and forget what was the last

number I used! I am trying to get time to re-write the Bordeaux trip. My

bad words are all worn out from thinking of that beautiful letter going

to the fishes. I am so very glad that you called my attention to the

lack of periods and capitals in my letters. I intend to go over this

cahier very carefully! It pretty near scares me to death when I think of

your showing my notes to any one, for they are usually written

hurriedly, and I simply say what I think and feel without any regard to

phrases or literary value; not that I could do anything in that line if

I wanted to. Still, it does please me to feel that I have been able to

tell you enough, and in such a way that it has interested you. After

all, it is simply because everything is so vital here, and when one has

something to say, it is usually easy to say it.

Almost every day now, big, new, beautiful, creamy-colored dirigibles

sail over the city. They are so marvelous-looking, with the sun on them.

I do not quite know what they are for, but they are lovely to look at.

Having been scared into believing that the pastry-shops are really

closing, Rootie and I bought lots of crackers, only to find them all

flourishing to-day, and with no immediate prospects of closing! That is

the way things go here. Lots of talk about shortage of this and that,

and yet we all have everything.

The last few days a very large number of soldiers--a remarkable number

in fact--have come home for "permission"--I cannot imagine why. An

oldest son--one of three at the front--came home this morning while we

were making a call. I hated to stay on and ask questions, when I knew

how much the woman wanted to talk with her boy. When he came in, both

the mother and father stopped talking, and simply stared at him. Then

she said, "Well, I am glad to see you alive," and kissed him on each

cheek. The man said nothing, but pounded him on the back. Then the woman

turned to us and explained that he was the eldest, and asked him if he

had news of his brother, wounded in a hospital near Arras. The

simplicity of their greeting, the wonderful control of the woman, who is

having a very hard time,--her husband is dying of T.B.; she has three

sons at the front; her daughter of thirty is insane, the result of the

bombardment; and she herself is not strong. I think that it is

interesting to see how people usually say commonplace things when they

are greatly stirred.

Rootie has finished writing, and is now waiting for me to come in and

play "halma." Did you ever? We have bought a board, and I expect to be

licked all to pieces, but here goes.

Your very loving daughter,

MARJE.

Friday, A.M.

Am writing this while waiting in the car for Mrs. Shurtleff, who is in

the American Clearing House, looking up lost cases--your paper among

others. I feel pretty important lined up with all the military cars, and

I backed into the place perfectly, which is great, for soldiers look

down on girl drivers. Am hoping one of them will crank for me! Letters

from you and Dad arrived for breakfast, all about seeing the Roots.

Thanks so much for them.

M.

XVII

FROM ESTHER

Paris, Monday, May 28, 1917.

DEAREST MOTHER:--

I am so bursting full of the good time that we have had during the past

two days that I am going to dash a line off to you--an inconsequential

line--even when I know that what you want is a letter full of statistics

and answers to questions. (Funny thing, I always think that I am the one

who is wonderful about answering everything that you ask!) I will be

good to-morrow.

To-night, I am tired and dusty, but miles and miles of white French

roads bordered by forests, and meadows, and houses, and towns, and

children, and horses, and castles, and flags, are going round in my

head.

"There ne'er were such thousands of leaves on a tree,

Or of people in church or the park...."

To-day is a holiday, being the day after Pentecost (Whit-Monday in

England), and Marje and I decided to go off for two days somewhere in

the country. Miss Curtis had planned to move a family to-day in the

Association car,--forgetting that Mrs. Shurtleff had promised us that we

could go out in it,--so she handed us over her Ford touring-car, which

was perfectly wonderful for us.

Yesterday morning we started off in dazzling sunshine with a clear blue

sky overhead. We took the road to Fontainebleau, which is long and

straight and bordered all the way--fifty kilometres--with great

evergreen trees. We took our hats off and talked, and laughed, and sang,

and whistled, and watched the countryside go flying by; the trees and

fields were the most luscious green, and everywhere were huge patches of

mustard, growing dense and brilliant yellow. Little towns, red-roofed,

with a single church spire and a few pointed haystacks, would huddle to

themselves far off on the horizon, and always we kept tearing along

between the trees, leaving Paris and carking care behind.

We stopped for luncheon under a particularly splendid tree and laid out

our store on the thick grass. Sardines, fresh bread, cheese, preserved

plums, strawberries, olives stuffed with anchovies, Cailler's chocolate

and orangeade. I never had anything taste so good, and no salt air any

nearer than Havre to account for it. You can't imagine what fun we had.

Finally when we were replete, we lay down and looked up into the leaves

and listened to the most heavenly birds.

We reached Fontainebleau at about two. The "New York Herald" had said

something about its being American day at F. that Sunday, but we weren't

prepared for such an exhibition of American flags as greeted us on all

the houses and shops, and on the palais itself. We knew, however, that

all this demonstration meant that the hotels were full, so we looked to

getting a room for the night before seeing anything. Not a thing to be

had. Thank fortune we were in a car and could go on to the next town.

There was a special invitation for all Americans to visit the

Fontainebleau golf course, so we made tracks out in that direction, as

the palais and grounds were overrun with permissionnaires and the usual

holiday crowds.

Arrived at the gates of the golf club we were ashamed at first to go in.

We were tired and dusty and blown to pieces, and the paths and hedges

looked too neat and dressy for words. But we did hop out and walk up to

a gentle-looking gray-bearded Frenchman with a black straw hat, and

asked if we could go in. He said he was enchanté to have Americans come

to the club, and took us himself up to the first tee. I looked wistfully

at the little piles of sand and thought of the many hours spent under an

electric light between four walls of fish-net on Seventy-second Street,

and longed for my driver.

We wandered up to some fir trees in the rough about halfway to the first

green and flopped down on the ground. We were both pretty tired and

didn't know where we could spend the night, or what, in fact, the next

move would be. Marje said that she couldn't go another step until she

had a nap, and as we didn't know when we should see a bed, we crawled

under the low branches of the fir tree, spread our coats over us, and

went to sleep.

It was twenty minutes of four when we woke up. We jumped out of the

bushes and so startled a man who was driving off that he sliced his shot

and the ball went whizzing between our heads. It was surprising to see

men caddies in battered French uniforms--probably réformés for

tuberculosis--and also young husky girl caddies toting around armfuls of

clubs. These were the only reminders of war, for on the veranda were

Americans and French people in white tennis shoes and blazers playing

bridge. You can't imagine the thrill of seeing good-looking people

wearing clothes and jewelry, sitting around and calling out "No

trumps"--after what this winter has been in Paris.

My, but we felt good after our nap! We met our friend with the black hat

and he took us inside the clubhouse. He showed us most especially the

mural decorations--scenes in Fontainebleau--which were from his brush.

One of the silver loving-cups in the glass case had "Compliments of

Charles Crocker" on it, and Marje discovered that he is a relation of

hers in Fitchburg.

We became very chummy with graybeard, and I mentioned in passing that we

couldn't find a place to stay. He gave us his card--M. Paul

Tavernier--and said that he knew an old couple who had a lovely house

which they rented furnished for the summer, beginning July 1st. Just now

they rented rooms overnight and would serve the petit déjeuner. It was

nice of him to recommend us, not knowing us at all, but he must have

known we were nice, we looked so innocent and unattractive. It seems

funny that over here when I'm traveling I spend my time trying to look

utterly unattractive and I meet with dazzling success; but such a

difference as it makes when choosing hats!

I have had a gnawing eagerness to see Moret. I believe it's where the

Barnards used to live; and Professor Churchill, head of the art

department in Northampton, knew George Gray Barnard there, and used to

mention the town and its environs in his lectures. The road leads

through the forest, and I can imagine nothing lovelier than the acres of

velvet green grass and giant green trees. You feel so tiny in between.

We hurried back to Fontainebleau and found 25 rue de l'Arbre Sec to be a

plain-looking house on a narrow, cobbled side street. Our ring was

answered by a nice-looking little woman, who became cordial when we

mentioned M. Tavernier's name. She led us through the house, which was

dark and finely furnished, and upstairs to a bedroom done in pink, with

white furniture. The windows looked out on a court and a heavenly

garden--undreamed of from the street.

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