are at the town of Shunem. Going through the town, we turn to the left,
winding our way around the base of this elevation, reaching the other
side, where we find the town of Nain, where Christ raised the widow’s
son. Here we find our luncheon-tent, and remain here some two hours.
About two miles north of us is Mount Tabor, where, it has been claimed,
the transfiguration took place. We are about two hours’ ride from
Nazareth. Leaving at 2.30, we soon finish crossing the valley of
Esdraelon, and go up a steep elevation with bad roads. We make our
way gradually, rising several hundred feet above the plain. We then
make a little descent into a valley almost surrounded by hills, and
find the beautiful little town of Nazareth. You will call it a place
of retirement. Here is a little valley with hills surrounding it,
from fifty to one hundred feet high. At first sight, you will say the
plateau of land is round; but on close examination you will decide the
length is nearly twice the width, which, I should say, is less than
a half-mile across. The buildings are not on this plain, but are in
crescent form at the base of the hills.
At the upper part of the valley the plain is used as a common and
for gardens. We are tented on the common of some twenty-five acres,
carpeted with green grass and dotted with flowers, spending the Sabbath
in quiet. Dr. Dunning preached to us to-day as we gathered in front of
our dining-tent, taking for his subject, largely, the human side of
the life of Christ, and made it very interesting. Nowhere could such
a sermon be made so impressive as here, where Christ’s childhood days
were spent. We have visited the workshop of Joseph and the home of
Mary, the church of annunciation, where the angel appeared to Mary the
virgin, the fountain, the synagogue where Christ taught; and we have
been through the bazaars and many of the straight and narrow streets.
Nazareth, unlike many towns in this region, is strongly
Christian,--three thousand nine hundred Christian and nineteen hundred
of other classes,--not a Jew lives here,--a much better class of people
than we usually meet, and many neat and pretty children, fine-looking
women coming to Mary’s fountain and filling their water-jars, that hold
from one to two pails. We found these jars to be heavy, and put one of
them upon Mrs. Dunning’s head. There were many of these women at the
fountain, and they seemed to enjoy the interview we had with them; and
we were interested to see them walk off with the jar on their heads
with such indifference.
We came into Nazareth from the south over a rough road, and shall go
north-east Monday to Tiberias, expecting a much better road.
MONDAY, the 29th.
Our ride to Tiberias is a long one. Therefore, we are called at five
o’clock, and are in the saddle at six, wending our way up the hill out
of Nazareth, taking with regret a farewell look at the prettiest town
we have seen yet, since we placed our feet in the land of Palestine.
The Jews thought no good thing could come out of this little town among
the mountains; but the stone that was cut out of the mountain here is
filling the whole earth, and there seems to be a hallowed sacredness as
we tread the same streets that were trodden by Him who came to bless
all mankind.
One hour takes us over the hill down into a beautiful valley; and at
one side of the valley, nestled upon the brow of the hill, stands the
little village of Cana. In front and around it are spread out the
groves of olives, figs, and pomegranate trees, making a beautiful
picture. At the edge of the town is a copious spring, where they water
their flocks, and the maidens come with their water-jars.
We went into the town, and at the church we saw the old stone
water-pots that were used at the wedding; and, certainly, they looked
old enough to have been used in Noah’s ark.
From Cana we passed on through a beautiful country, valleys, and
elevations, where we could canter our horses at pleasure. We passed the
home of Jonah, and about ten o’clock came to the Mount of Beatitudes.
The day was hot; but old snow-capped Hermon, towering up nine thousand
feet, seemingly a short distance to our left, seemed to nod his head to
us, saying, “Keep cool.”
The place where it is supposed Christ preached his wonderful sermon is
a small, conical hill, some fifty feet high, with the ground gradually
sloping from it, and is beautiful to look upon. Whether this is the
place or some other elevation near here makes but little difference. We
have the sermon, rich in thought,--principles laid down, that are, for
the healing of the nations; and it seems as though Nature in her beauty
in this locality responded to those teachings, and said, “Amen,” for
no artist with pencil and brush, tapestry and Persian art added, could
attract the eye of the lovers of the beautiful as the hills, vales, and
dales about the Mount of Beatitudes. The hills here are different from
those about Jerusalem. They have lost their granite and limestone ribs,
and this is a section of country that would attract a Vermont farmer.
We pass on from this point, and sight the Sea of Galilee down deep in
the valley, with its peaceful waters. We wend our way down a steep
hill, and soon are at the little seaport town of Tiberias. Passing
through the village down the shore half a mile, we find our lunch-tent.
Just below it is the hot sulphur spring, with bathing-houses; and
they are patronized by many people. We spend some time on the shore,
gathering pebbles and shells. We can see the whole length of the sea,
thirteen miles; and it averages six miles wide. Yet you would not think
it to be half that distance.
Few places in Palestine have more historical interest connected with
the three years’ labor of the Saviour than the Sea of Galilee. We
wondered where he fed the multitude, where he launched out in a boat
and taught the people, at what point was he when he stilled the waters,
where did he order the disciples to cast the net on the other side of
the boat, etc. We now are near the south end of the lake, which runs
north and south. Here we take four sail and row boats going north. When
we start, the waters are smooth as glass, and our oarsmen, four of them
to each boat, use the oars; but before we had been on the water half an
hour the wind seemed to come down upon us, and they spread their sails,
and we sped through the troubled waters rapidly. It was wonderful how
quickly the waters were troubled. At the head of the lake we visit the
old site of Capernaum. About all there is left is the location, and few
ruins, except a new building occupied by the monks.
From this spot we sail west, passing the old town of Bethsaida, the
home of the fishermen that Christ called to be his disciples, landing
at the plains of Chinnereth, where we camp for the night. We were three
hours on the water, and enjoyed it much. The river Jordan enters the
Sea of Galilee at the north end, leaving it at the south end, going on
its way sixty miles to the Dead Sea. When we reached our tents, our
day’s work was done, being full of interest all the way from Nazareth
to the sea.
Tuesday morning we started north up over the mountain. Found a rough
country. We let our horses have the bit and bridle, and they took us
over places we hope never to pass again. Yesterday we were going to
send for our Vermont farmer friend, as we had found the garden of the
world; but to-day we are ready to say “stick to Vermont.” After three
hours’ ride we seemed to be on the top of the mountain, and could
look south and see the Sea of Galilee, look north and see the waters
of Merom, where we are tenting to-night. Our tents form a circle; and
in the circle we have a bonfire, and are being entertained by about
fifty Bedouins, singing and dancing and practising with the broadsword.
We had our lunch to-day some three miles south of this place, where
there was a large spring coming out of the mountain. Fine water for
this country, and enough of it to run a grist mill of some four run of
stones; but the grain feeds into the mill about as fast as a good smart
Vermont hen would pick it up, and was the crudest mill mortal man ever
set eyes upon.
After leaving the Sea of Galilee and crossing the mountain, we came
into the Jordan valley, but skirted along its edge near the mountain,
and found many springs coming out of the mountains, sending their
streams of pure water out into that historic river, the Jordan. We are
now travelling in the region of Naphtali. Up the valley Joshua swept
with his army when he took the land of Canaan. The Jordan valley
here is much more fertile than we found it at Jericho, and is almost
wholly occupied by the Bedouins. They live in tents unlike any other
tent you will have the privilege of looking upon. They have cloth made
out of goat’s hair, black, which is set up on sticks, the highest
in the centre being long and narrow, raised five or six feet from
the ground. Around the edges they fit up bamboo or anything they can
get. I have counted seventy of these tents in a cluster. It makes a
black-looking village. The tents are black, the skin of the people the
same color, the character as black as you please. They till the soil
but very little. They have their cattle, living on milk and beef, with
some poultry and eggs, and roam from place to place as herdsmen. The
cattle here in Palestine are mostly small black cattle; when grown,
about the size of our yearlings.
But I see in this valley the Bedouins have some of the Egyptian breed
of cattle. They are large, coarse, and homely. I think they would smile
to see our Vermont Durhams.
[Illustration: BEDOUINS WITH THEIR HARPS.]
VI.
WEDNESDAY, May 1.
We have been travelling most of the day in the valley. Yesterday we
were going north on the west side: to-day, about 10 A.M., we head our
horses eastward, crossing to the other side of the plain. We went over
an old arched stone bridge, which took us across one of the largest
tributaries of the Jordan River, and were soon at the Hill of Dan,
where we took our lunch under two large live-oak trees, measuring
sixteen and nineteen feet in circumference. The boughs of one of them
spread ninety feet. So you see we had plenty of room for forty people.
Just east of these trees lie the ruins of Dan. Here was where Jeroboam
set up the golden calf to accommodate the people, when he established
himself at Bethel. Here we went into another grist mill, two hundred
years old. They could grind one bushel an hour in each run of stones.
When leaving this place, we go up on to some high table land, sparsely
covered with live oaks and trees of a similar character, which we
enjoyed, as we had seen nothing of the kind for many days.
After a short ride we came to a valley where is located the town of
Banias, the former Cæsarea Philippi, where we spend the night. Here is
the head of the Jordan River. One of the spurs of Mount Hermon came
down to this place, ending with a perpendicular ledge. From under this
ledge came out a great flow of water, and it is really the beginning
of that historic river, and is about the size of the Black River at
Springfield, but receives many tributaries as it flows on. Cæsarea
Philippi was built by Philip the Tetrarch, and was somewhat a Roman
town. It is thought to resemble Tivoli, and the old ruin signifies that
once it was a flourishing place. This was the furthest point north
the Saviour ever went, and that for only once; and it is supposed
while here he went with Peter and John on to one of the spurs of
Mount Hermon, and was transfigured before them. He was baptized in the
waters of the Jordan. At its source he was transfigured. He calmed its
waters as it passed through the Sea of Galilee. He called most of his
disciples from its locality, and the Jordan flows on in rich, historic
memories.
When we left Banias, we entered the land of Syria, and were informed
that our luncheon-tent would be on the mountains, five thousand feet
above the sea. Therefore, we began to climb. In some three hours we
halted at quite a good-sized town, inhabited by the Druses. This is
the class of people that slaughtered so many Christians in 1860. Many
of the men, women, and children, came out to see us, and to sell
their wares and trinkets. The men were all armed with dirk-knives,
and showed us how to use them. Some of them use one in each hand with
great dexterity. We should have been satisfied to have known how they
didn’t use them. The sheik of the town was there, and he brought out a
piece of bread, divided it in two parts with our manager, and they ate
it together. That was a token of peace; and we mounted our horses, and
passed on to where we found our luncheon-tent. For the last few hours
the snow-capped peaks of Mount Hermon were close to our left. Around
them were the lower peaks and spurs. Hermon looked like a white-bearded
old fellow with his children settled all about him, located for all
time, if not eternity.
The day proved to be one of the worst of our experience. It was what
I should call intermittent. First the sun would shine, then it would
rain, and, to make it poetical, we would next have sunshine, then a
snow-squall, the wind blowing almost a gale; but, as luck would have
it, it was at our backs. Parties have had to turn back and wait for
better weather before going over the mountain; but we kept in the
saddle until after five o’clock, at which time we were nearly over the
mountain, and tented for the night at the little town of Henah. But
the wind and storm still continued. Our tents fluttered and trembled,
but the guy ropes were thoroughly fastened and attended to through the
night; and everything was kept intact until the next morning, when we
went on our way rejoicing.
Coming over the mountain, we had three exhibits of the most gorgeous
rainbow mortal man ever beheld,--one end resting on the plain below us,
the other on the mountain. The question was, was such an exhibit common
to Syria or was it expressly for the Congregational party.
After leaving Henah, our objective point was Damascus, which we
expected to reach about 4 P.M. We crossed in the forenoon the waters
of Pharpar, and about eleven o’clock reached the Damascus plains. What
we have seen of Syria so far is anything but flattering. The soil is
very poor, and strewn in many places with lava, rock, and wheat headed
out when from six to twelve inches high. It is under the Turkish
government; and the people are taxed to death, as they are in the whole
empire.
We have been travelling over the main road from Jerusalem to Damascus;
and it was somewhere near Damascus that Saul of Tarsus was converted,
or at least found out that it was hard to kick against the pricks.
As you come down on to the plains, you are near the west side; and you
have at your left the Anti-Lebanon Mountains, which form a beautiful
background to the plain which stretches far to the east, with lesser
hills and mountains beyond. Near the head of this valley your eye
beholds a beautiful grove, variegated, stretching from the Anti-Lebanon
Mountains across the head of the plains for miles. Above the trees you
will see a great number of white towers and minarets, and you will
decide that you are soon to be in that city where the great apostle
Paul dated his conversion.
Our head dragoman had a little pride left, even after being with us
so many days; and, as we were a larger party than he usually has the
privilege of conducting, he wished to take us into the city in good
order. So we were commanded to stop at the gate of the city until we
were all together, then rode two abreast, with the dragoman at the head.
Going into Damascus is like going into the maze at Monterey, in
California. The road, which is fair in width, is lined each side with
walls built of clay and small stones mixed together, which are from
four to ten feet high; and you are all the time turning angles. Where
these walls are not so high but what you can look over them, you will
see gardens and groves. Here you find the silver-leaf poplar growing,
which is used for building. Then it is a forest of fruit-trees, olives,
walnut, fig, etc. Nothing seemingly grown in Palestine but what you
will find here in Damascus. It is said that Mohammed, when he stood
upon the mountain, at the head of the city, and looked upon it,
exclaimed, “There is but one paradise, and that is Damascus.” The city
has over two hundred thousand inhabitants and some two hundred mosques.
It is an old city, and has had terrible conflicts. Even as late as 1860
there were six thousand Christians murdered here.
David conquered the place after a bloody war, as it was allied with his
enemy, the king of Zobah. (See 2 Samuel viii. 5, 6.) During the reign
of Solomon an adventurer by the name of Rezin made himself king. At one
time the Romans had control, and you can see to-day the old Roman arch
and gate.
We have visited the houses of Ananias and Judas, that are connected
with Paul’s history, also the place where he was let down in a basket.
The city has a wonderful water supply, the river Abana running through
it. From this stream, water is taken in all directions. The main part
of the stream is carried through the city in a canal, which is some
sixty feet wide, and runs swiftly. The water has a pearly appearance.
We have, in my opinion, reached the climax on dogs here in Damascus. We
find it is against the law to kill a dog; and they are lying about the
streets, on the sidewalks, or anywhere they choose, appearing sleepy,
as if they had been up all night. You can count from ten to twenty
anywhere you may happen to be.
There are many rich men here who have fine residences. Some of our
party visited one of these places, where one room cost fifty thousand
dollars.
[Illustration: VEILED WOMEN.]
VII.
DAMASCUS, May 2, 1895.
We are stopping at the Grand Hotel, Besraoui; and we find it
first-class. When we alighted from our horses in front of the hotel,
two large iron doors, some fifteen feet high, swung open. In one
of these doors is the needle eye; that is, a small door in one of
the large doors, that can be used when the large doors are closed,
although a short person has to stoop to pass through. We enter a hall
or vestibule. At your right is the office, at your left the parlor.
In front is a court some fifty feet square, paved with marble, large
fountain in the centre, lemon trees growing, full of fruit. Before
stepping into this court, you can turn to the right or left, going up
stairs leading on to balconies that are built round on three sides of
the court. From these balconies you open the doors into your rooms. We
are located on the first floor, having a very pleasant room.
We remain here until Tuesday, the 7th, then finish our camping tour to
Beyrout.
You will remember that Paul went to the street called Straight, to the
house of Judas, and Ananias was sent for, etc. This street referred
to was a wonderful street, although it was not straight, but was the
nearest to the line and plummet of any street in Damascus; for, if you
wish to get angles and curves to perfection, then come to this city.
The street called Straight in Paul’s day was ninety feet wide, and was
the great market-place.
Here come the caravans from Persia,--a hundred camels at once, loaded
with merchandise. Since that time buildings have been put through
the centre of the street, making two streets out of one, and greatly
increasing the number of bazaars; and the camels stop outside the city.
While Damascus has shade-trees and many fine things, yet a large part
of it is filthy; and our party think they prefer Cairo. The people in
Cairo are not as foreign as they are in Damascus. The people here use
mostly goats’ milk. We see droves of them coming into the city to be
milked, but no cows. The churning of milk or cream through Palestine
and Syria is done in goat-skins, which are sewed up, then the milk put
inside and shaken.
When we were passing through the Bedouin country, the women and
children would come out with the dirtiest, crudest-looking receptacles,
with milk and buttermilk to sell; but I think our party must have been
out of funds, for I did not see them purchase any of the tempting
nectar. We have also been interested in the way the people do their
washing. They go to the brook and wash the clothes on a flat rock,
sometimes using another flat stone to pound and rub them with. The
people and their ways are extremely queer to us, but I presume we are
as much of a curiosity to them.
We found here in Damascus to-day the father of lemons. It measured
the smallest way round thirteen and one-half inches, the other way
seventeen inches. We of course took the largest one in the pile to try
our tape-line on.
They keep six thousand soldiers here to look after the peace of the
city. Safety would call for more rather than less.
The last day of our stay here our party took a carriage ride through
and around Damascus, and drove on to the hill near the mountain where
Mohammed stood when he admired the city so much; and we could but
exclaim, “Beautiful!” But as we had been through its dusty streets, and
seen its miserable houses, we decided it was one of those places where
distance lends enchantment. The sweeping waters of the Abana pass close
by our hotel.
Tuesday morning, the 7th, we were on our horses, and bade good-by to
Damascus, directing our course up the beautiful Abana, and soon were in
a narrow valley between the high mountains, and our eyes were drinking
in the finest scenery in the world. The road was fine, being the main
road to Beyrout.
After an hour’s ride we turned to the right, and took to the mountains,
for Baalbec was our objective point; and we found ourselves going over
the Anti-Libanus Mountain, which gave us some grand scenery. We could
at times look down thousands of feet into the valley of green trees,
and see the Abana River and the new railroad that is being built,
meandering their way down to the great city of Damascus. We scale
the mountain, and descend into a valley, where we find one of the
tributaries of the Abana boiling up from under large rocks at the base
of the mountain; and we wonder and admire to see the great quantities
of pure water rushing away from this fountain, going on its errand of
mercy to the arid plains below. Here was a beautiful grove cooled by
the rivers of water; and our dragoman had spread our lunch table in the
cooling shade, where we spent two enjoyable hours. As a little episode,
one of our horses broke down one of the trees in the grove. Very soon
a middle-aged woman appeared, gesticulating and jabbering with all her
powers, her eyes flashing. I thought at first we were to be driven off
the grounds. Evidently, she believed in woman’s rights; and I rather
admired her spunk, but was disgusted to see how easily she was bought
up. Our head dragoman went and picked up a few pieces of bread we had
left at lunch, and gave to her; and she went off, smiling and happy as
a clam in high water.
After two hours’ ride we reached the town of Suk, where we camped
for the night. Here the mountains are near to us, rising almost
perpendicular more than one thousand feet. Upon the top of one of these
mountains you will see a tomb, a building quite conspicuous. Tradition
says it is the tomb of Abel.
Our tents are close by the new railroad they are building from Damascus
to Beyrout. We examined it, and found that they were laying the rails
on iron ties. They are made like a trough, and bolted firmly to these
iron sleepers.
Wednesday morning we commence our journey, going through the grandest
scenery we have seen this side of the Atlantic. In half an hour we
halt, and look over the sections of the old Roman road. Another
half-hour brings us into a broad, fertile valley, should call it the
Esdraelon of Syria.
Since we left Damascus we have been crossing the Anti-Lebanon
Mountains, sometimes in the valleys, then again on the mountains, most
of the time old snow-capped Hermon plain in view. 5 P.M. finds us
tented at the town of Yafufeh.