interest. This was the home of David’s relations, and is located some
six miles south of Jerusalem, and is about the same height above the
sea as the hill of Zion. As you leave the Jaffa gate, you pass down and
across the valley of Gihon, coming up near the hill of Evil Counsel (so
called because at that place they took counsel against Christ), and
soon are on the plain of Rephaim, where David fought the Philistines;
and, judging from the broad sweep of the plain, it must have been a
hand-to-hand fight. Here is where David refused to drink the water he
so thirsted for, brought from the spring near Bethlehem, because it was
done at the risk of the lives of his men that procured it.
Before I take you any further, it might be well for you to look at the
surrounding country of Jerusalem. If you stand on the hill of Zion (or
perhaps a better place would be the Mount of Olivet), no one point of
compass will attract the eye more than looking south toward Bethlehem.
As I have told you before, the country here is made up of hills and
valleys, elevations and depressions, rugged and rocky at that, yet
the mingling of the olive, almond, fig, orange, and lemon groves,
gives it a beauty that attracts the eye; and, while you cannot see
Bethlehem from where you are standing, yet, if drawn by the love of the
beautiful, your first outing from the city will be in that direction.
I have given you a view from a distance. When you plant your feet on
this beautiful country my eye has taken in, you will exclaim, “My, how
rocky!”
After we leave the plain of Rephaim, we come to the tomb of Rachel.
For a wonder the Mohammedans, Greeks, and Latins all worship Rachel;
and the day we went to Bethlehem was a special day, and they were all
rushing to the tomb to weep for her. The tomb is a white building,
standing close to the travelled road, the front an arched portico
or entrance. Then you step down some half-dozen steps into a square
apartment, perhaps twenty feet each way. In the centre is built up the
receptacle for the body, six feet high, eight feet long, four feet
wide, giving a chance to pass around it. Here the people come with
their Hebrew Bibles, reading Jacob’s lamentation, and crying as if
their poor hearts would break, kissing the tomb, etc. They remain a
short time, and then others take their places. We passed around with
others, but could not in so short a time get into the spirit of the
worship.
In passing through this country as well as Egypt, the traditions and
the queer things the ignorant people will show and relate to you about
the old saints and prophets will make you tired.
For example, just beyond Rachel’s tomb is a flat rock; and it looks
as though a man had been on his back and had sunk into the stone some
four inches. The people will show it to you, and tell you it was where
Elijah slept the first night after he fled from Jezebel. This is only
one of the many foolish things they have on the brain. But, if you will
take profane and religious history in one hand and common sense in the
other, you will find things that will interest you at every turn you
make, and will have all you can carry away with you.
A little farther on we turn to the left, and in a short time are at
Solomon’s pools. They are three in number, built by the wise man; and
from these the water was taken into Jerusalem.
From the pools we drove to Bethlehem, a place of some eight thousand
people, largely Christians. They are tillers of the soil. Herding
of cattle is a large business with them. They manufacture rosaries,
crosses, and other fancy articles in wood, mother-of-pearl, and stone
from the Dead Sea. It is quite a market town for the Bedouins and
peasants from the surrounding country. There is a very old church built
over the spot where Christ was born, and they will show you the place
where Joseph was when the angel warned him to flee into Egypt.
We visited an underground apartment, or nearly so, where Saint Jerome
translated the Hebrew Bible into the Latin (the Vulgate). Saint Jerome
was born of pagan parents in 331, and was afterward baptized at Rome.
While journeying in the East, he had a vision at Antioch, commanding
him to renounce the study of heathen writers, which he did, and
finally took up his abode at Bethlehem. Here you will see a painting
of him, with a Bible in his hand. Joab, Asahel, and Abishai once
resided here at Bethlehem. (See 2 Samuel ii. 18.) In the eyes of the
prophets Bethlehem was especially sacred as the home of the family of
David, but the one great and lasting triumph for that little town was
the birth and humble beginning of one who is to conquer sin.
IV.
Some four hundred and fifty years after Joshua led the children of
Israel through the divided waters of the Jordan, and with his military
forces swept up the Jordan valley and up through the hills of Judea,
destroying those heathen nations,--when these four hundred and fifty
years had been placed on the tablet of time King David appeared on
the scene, with Joab as his major-general. Mount Zion was then called
Jebus, and the people were called Jebusites.
King David made an attack, capturing the city, Joab being the first man
to enter.
Josephus claims that Melchizedek once lived here. On Mount Zion David
built his palace, this being the whole of the city.
Thirty-seven years later the foundation of the temple was laid on Mount
Moriah. These two elevations are divided by the Tryphon valley, and
were at one time connected by a bridge.
On Mount Moriah Ornan had his threshing-floor, and it was also the spot
where Abraham offered up Isaac. Mount Zion became the civil capital of
the nation, and Mount Moriah the sacred capital. Jerusalem attained its
greatest power during Solomon’s reign, but this was largely lost by the
revolt of Jeroboam.
It passed through many changes of fortune, until five hundred
and eighty-eight years before Christ, when it was destroyed by
Nebuchadnezzar, and the Jews were taken into captivity. Jerusalem
remained a heap of ruins until Cyrus allowed the Jews to return, guided
by Ezra and Nehemiah, and for many years, until Grecian power became
strong in Western Asia, Syria and Palestine were governed by Persian
satraps in Damascus; yet the Jewish priest had much liberty.
Some three hundred and thirty years before Christ, after the battle of
Issus, Palestine fell under the dominion of Alexander the Great. That
illustrious monarch appeared one day before Jerusalem on the hills to
the north-west, where now stand the Russian buildings; and a solemn
procession, headed by the high priest, clad in pontifical robe, marched
out to meet him. As soon as the monarch saw them, he advanced, and
reverently saluted the sacred name inscribed on the priest’s mitre,
saying, “I adore not the man, but the God with whose priesthood he
is honored. When in Macedonia, pondering how to subdue Asia, I saw
this figure in a dream, and he encouraged me to advance, promising
to give me the Persian empire. I look upon this as an omen that I
have undertaken the expedition by divine command, and success will be
mine.” Alexander granted the Jews many privileges; and after his death
Jerusalem fell into the hands of the Ptolemies of Egypt, under whose
mild rule it remained over two hundred years, when it was plundered and
defiled by Antiochus Epiphanes. Two years later he sent his general,
Apollonius, to complete the work; and all the able-bodied men were
slain, and the women and children sold into slavery.
Then arose the priestly family of Asmones to revenge their injuries and
vindicate the honor of their God. This warfare lasted until thirty-four
years before Christ, when Herod the Great was appointed ruler of the
Jews. In the year 70 the Romans stormed the city, and killed more than
a million Jews (this number is given by Josephus), and razed the temple
to the ground.
Wars and fighting went on until 636, when Omar captured the city,
and ordered the mosque of Omar built. Jerusalem was taken by the
Crusaders in 1229; and in 1243 it was secured by the Moslems, and
has been in their power ever since. The last few years the Jews have
been returning, and have settled largely outside the city walls at
the north-west. The Russian Jews have some fine buildings. Within
the walls the city is dirty. Many of the streets are arched, and
lined with bazaars. Zion Street runs from the Jaffa gate through the
city. David Street is another of the main streets. The city seems
divided into four sections, each section being occupied by different
religious sects,--Mohammedans, Latins, Christians, and Armenians.
The city is poorly watered, only two nearly dried up fountains they
depend on. Cisterns catch the water from the roofs of the buildings.
Lumber is a scarce article. The buildings are nearly all stone;
and, from appearances, the inhabitants of that country are more
efficient in working on stone than on any other material. The stones
in the old walls of Jerusalem, laid without mortar or cement, are
fitted so closely that you can hardly tell where they are joined
together,--perfect joints. From the Mount of Olives you get the finest
view of the city. It is composed of four elevations, Mount Moriah,
Zion, Ackra, and Bezetha, the two former lying to the east and the most
prominent, and rich with historical interest. No city in the world so
thrills the soul as the one that has within its bosom Mount Zion and
Mount Moriah. While you may not believe all that the native tells you
about the exact localities of the thrilling scenes of eighteen hundred
years ago, yet you know you are near the spot where the King of kings
yielded to the will of the Father, triumphed over death, led captivity
captive, and established a kingdom that Satan has not been able to
prevail against. You can go to the house of Caiphas where they took
Christ the night of the betrayal. They will show you where Peter sat
when he denied his Master. From there it is not very far to Pilate’s
judgment hall. When that was rebuilt, it is evident they dug down to
the old foundation; and you can, no doubt, stand where Christ stood
when before Pilate, you can see the stone upon which Pilate stood when
he pronounced judgment. This building is now occupied by the Latin
Sisters. They will also show you the way Christ was led out to be
crucified, where he fell with the cross, where he spoke to the women
and told them not to weep for him, but weep for themselves, etc.
On Mount Moriah stood Solomon’s temple and palace, said to cover--with
all its courts and appendages--acres, some say thirty. The mosque of
Omar now stands on Mount Moriah. Though not so large as the temple, yet
its symmetrical architecture, beautiful stained-glass, tiling, etc.,
will fill you with admiration. There is no mosque in the Turkish empire
that surpasses it in beauty.
In the mosque is the dome of the rock, with its steps leading up to it,
with the hole in the centre where the blood went in time of sacrifice,
being connected by a subterranean passage to the Kedron valley. This
rock is fifty-seven by forty-three feet, and six and one-half feet
high. It is held wonderfully sacred by the Mussulmans. They claim
that Mohammed went up from this rock, and the rock started to follow
him; but the angel Gabriel put his hand on it, and stopped it. The
Armenian convent, one of the largest buildings in the city, is said
to hold eight thousand. We were shown the Church of St. James, said
to mark the site where he was killed by Herod (Acts xii. 1, 2). It
contains his tomb and chair, also three stones, one from Mount Sinai
where Moses received the law, one from the Jordan where the children
of Israel crossed, and one from Mount Tabor where, some think, the
transfiguration took place. Near the Damascus gate you can enter a
subterranean passage where there have been thousands upon thousands
of stone quarried here. You take lights, and walk miles under the city.
Stone has been taken out here for building and rebuilding Jerusalem.
You can enter a building in which is David’s tomb, which they will
not allow you to see; but you may visit a room above, called the
Cœnaculum. It is fifty by thirty feet; and here it is claimed that
Christ instituted the Lord’s Supper, where the apostles were gathered
on the day of Pentecost, when Peter in his sermon referred to the tomb
of David as being with them (Acts ii. 29).
You can take Baedeker or a good guide with you, and travel days in the
city with great interest.
Friday is the day to visit the Jews’ wailing-place in the Tyropœon
valley, by the walls of the city, and near where the temple stood.
Here they read the old prophecies and promises, and weep, to all
appearances, from the bottom of their hearts, evidently sincere
mourners over the destruction of their city, and the scattering of
their people to the four corners of the earth. They believe, no doubt,
that they are to be gathered together, and re-established in the Holy
City some time in the future.
[Illustration: THE JEWS’ WAILING-PLACE.]
Jerusalem is situated high upon the hills of Judah, with her
foundations of granite; and, as you stand on Olivet, you view her
palaces and the surrounding country, with its hills ribbed with
lime-rock, granite, and marble, and you admire it, for it was once the
Holy City. But I am confident, if David had seen old Vermont clothed in
her beautiful garments as she is in summer time, he would never have
settled down in Jerusalem.
But the die was cast, and Jerusalem was and is to be the religious
centre of the world. Around it clusters sacred memories. From its
Mount Calvary went forth a power that rent the rocks asunder. From
this centre went forth the great reformation and the uplifting of
the nations of the earth. It is a joy to every Christian to stand on
Olivet, to walk through the Garden of Gethsemane, and over Calvary and
Mount Zion: it will add a richness to the study of the holy Scriptures.
It is an old saying, “See Naples, and die.” There is a mistake. The
phraseology should be different: “Don’t die, unless you are obliged
to, until you have seen Naples.” I would say the same in regard to
Palestine and the Holy Land.
Our stay in and about Jerusalem has been exceedingly interesting, and
we shall study the Scriptures with greater interest than ever before.
We start the 24th on our long camping tour from here to Beyrout. I
shall write up as I go along the route, but shall not mail it until we
reach our destination, which will be May 11.
V.
APRIL 25, 1895.
Early in the morning of the 24th, at Jerusalem, we headed our horses
due north, commencing our long camping tour of eighteen days from
Jerusalem to Beyrout, getting a view of old historic relics and towers
that cannot be reached in any other way; that is, over a road that is
either foot or horseback, and hotels are rocky, few, and far between.
After crossing the Kedron valley, we commenced to climb hills and
descend into valleys, and soon were on what is called the Damascus
road; that is, if it can be called a road. Our first elevation was over
Mount Scopus. Here was where Titus’s camp was pitched. Here the doom of
the Holy City was decreed. We thought of the holy family pursuing their
way from the great religious festivals to Nazareth. We passed Bier,
where tradition says the holy child was first missed.
Our first halt was some two miles out from Jerusalem, at the tombs of
the kings; and, as we proceeded on our journey, we found the ascending
and descending growing in steepness, the rocks and ledges fearful. We
thought of General Putnam riding down the stone steps, and decided that
we could put the general in the shade. The horses here are trained for
these roads, and are sure-footed. Let them have the reins, and they
will take you to the bottom of the hill in safety, over places you
would hardly dare go down on foot. The horses are shod with a flat
shoe that nearly covers the whole foot, and it is a mystery how they
stand on the ledges as they do. Woe to the man that attempts to ride an
American horse over the roads we have travelled!
As we passed on from Mount Scopus, we see to our right, upon a
hill-top, the town of Ramah, where Samuel was born and buried. Farther
on we passed the town of Ophrah, the home of Gideon, but saw nothing
of the men that lapped water. About eleven o’clock we go down into
the valley, and find our lunch-tent pitched in a green place, once
a reservoir, and find it to be the town of Bethel. Here was the spot
where Abraham and Jacob watered their flocks, and Jacob set up the
pillar of stones at this place. Here was where Jeroboam set up his
false worship, which proved a thorn in the sides of the Jewish kings,
having an unfriendly capital so near Mount Zion, with the golden calf
ready to attract the loose-minded.
The ways of sin are always more attractive than the ways of
righteousness to the thoughtless and indifferent.
We rested ourselves and horses here some two hours, and then were in
the saddle four hours, bringing us into a pleasant valley, near a
little town without historic interest, and where we tented for the
night. _Table d’hôte_ was good, and a good night’s rest was the verdict
in the morning; and we moved on, and soon halted at Shiloh, located
on high ground, commanding a fine view. Here was where the ark of God
rested twenty years; and here was where Eli died. All there is left
to-day are foundation walls, ruins, and an historic name. We found the
travelling better to-day than the day we started, which we enjoyed as
travellers in a strange land.
While we were upon the mountains a part of the time, yet we passed
through some beautiful valleys. Rev. Mr. Green, formerly of Hartford,
Vt., to whom I have referred before as a botanist, travelling here,
informed us that there were fifteen hundred varieties of wild flowers.
The fields of Palestine are full of them. In many places you will see
beautiful green tapestry, full of flowers. This might be called the
flowery kingdom; and we got many beautiful landscape views.
On we ride, feasting our eyes; and at twelve o’clock we halt at Jacob’s
well for lunch. Here was where the Saviour talked with the women of
Samaria, where he spoke to his disciples of the fields being ripe for
the harvest; and we imagined he saw the fields as we can see them
to-day. As you stand at the well, facing east, you have thousands of
acres of beautiful plain land before you, covered with waving grain
nearly ready for the sickle. We halted at this lovely spot some three
hours. A few minutes’ walk north from our tent brings you to the tomb
of Joseph, who was the son of Jacob. You well remember that his bones
were brought here and buried. We have been travelling north through
historic grounds, where the old patriarchs had roamed with their
herds, passed the town of Dothan, where Jacob sent his son Joseph to
look after his brothers, and crossed the track of the caravan going to
Egypt, taking Joseph with them. It has been a panorama of historical
events.
When we are in the saddle again, we turn square to the left, going
west, down through the narrow valley of Shechem, passing between Mount
Gerizim on our left and Mount Ebal on the right. Here was where the
people stood in the valley, and the blessings were pronounced from
Mount Gerizim, and the cursings from Mount Ebal, and the people said,
“Amen.” Principles declared there that have held good ever since,--The
ways of righteousness are easy, but the ways of sin are hard. Here was
where the people asked Rehoboam for more clemency; but the foolish boy
discarded the counsel of the older men, and told them that his father
had chastised them with whips, but he would with scorpions.
About one hour’s ride, and we were at Nablous, the old town of Shechem,
where we found our tents pitched in a beautiful olive grove; and we
turned in for the night, being well satisfied with our day’s work,
this being the spot and place, as you will see by the date, where I
commenced this letter. This is a town of some twenty thousand people,
strongly antichristian, who gave us many scowls as we passed through
the town. This being noted as a hard place, we had some eight or ten
soldiers from the barracks added to our guard force for the night.
The people here manufacture large quantities of olive soap, which
they brought to our tents for sale, also tobacco pouches made of
goat and sheep skins. We went into a Samaritan church, and saw the
priest, and bought some of his photographs. He showed us the five
books of Moses written on parchment that was thirty-five hundred years
old. Nablous is famous for its great number of springs coming out of
Mount Gerizim, which are used along down the valley for irrigation,
producing beautiful fields and gardens. These springs are refreshing
to a traveller in this country, as there is a terrible dearth of that
article through Palestine.
Friday, the 26th, we were on the march bright and early, passing down
the valley some two miles over a fine road which leads to Jaffa. But we
are bound for Nazareth. So we turn to the right into a bridle-path,
and begin to climb; and, when you are near the top of this elevation,
cast your eye to the south, looking across the valley we have just
left to the hill the other side, and you will get the grandest view in
Palestine. The side of the mountain is somewhat free from stone, and
seems to be terraced up the beautiful slopes with straight, conical,
and crescent terraces, covered with a rich verdure, filled with the
flowers of the land.
We pass over this mountain, and as we commence to descend the other
side, we see across the valley the historical town of Samaria, standing
upon a high elevation. We descend into the valley, and climb up into
one of the oldest and most degraded-looking towns we have been called
upon to pass through. We saw the pool of Samaria where Ahab’s chariot
was washed. Ahab was slain in his chariot in battle and taken to this
place. Here he had his winter residence with his ivory palace. We saw
some of the foundation and columns, which is all that is left of it. We
saw some of the columns of the colonnade that extended from the city
gate to the palace, some three thousand feet. We leave this town, once
so splendid, feeling that sin and misery have done their perfect work.
The rest of the day we are passing through wheat fields and one of the
largest olive orchards in Palestine, and at five o’clock reach Jenin
where we tent for the night.
Jenin is on the border of the wonderful valley of Esdraelon. This town
is modern, but is said to be the place where Christ healed the ten
lepers. Here we saw some palm-trees which made us think of Egypt. It
was a question whether they were strayed or stolen; but they looked
thrifty, and we decided that the breezes from the valley of Esdraelon
had been fanning them. This valley is different from the Jordan, being
rich and fertile; and, unlike the prairies of the West, it has many
conical hills and even mountains scattered over its broad acres. And,
as in David’s and Solomon’s time, Jerusalem and Mount Zion were the joy
of the whole earth in a spiritual sense, so, it seems to me, the valley
of Esdraelon must have been the joy in a temporal view. It seems to be
the great granary of Palestine.
Saturday morning, the 27th, the sun rose clear and bright, and we
expected a scorching day across the valley, which takes nearly all
day; but the Lord sent the clouds to cover us as he did the children
of Israel, and we had the most satisfactory day of the week. One hour
from Jenin we reached Jezreel, standing upon a high elevation. Here
was Ahab’s summer residence, here also was Naboth’s vineyard. We rode
upon this elevation, left our saddles, and looked over the town, which
now consists mostly of mud huts, save the old stone palace and the
window where Jezebel came down, and the dogs devoured her; and I have
the impression that they have kept in Palestine the same breed of dogs
ever since, for we find here the meanest dogs in the world. They seem
to delight in barking nights, keeping poor mortals awake. If some one
could get at them with stones and knock the bark off of them, it would
be a blessing to every one.
Now, if you will stand by me on this elevation with your face
northward, looking down on the plain at your right, you will see the
fountain of Gideon. In front of you is where the Midianite forces were
gathered when Gideon routed them with his hundred men. Now look across
the valley some three miles to another mountain elevation, which is
Little Hermon. At the base is the town of Shunem, where the woman had
the prophet’s chamber, where Elisha raised the boy to life. Now cast
your eye to the left some ten miles distant, and you see Mount Carmel.
To this mount the servant ran for Elisha; and the prophet asked, “Is it
well with the child?”