four hours, arriving at 10 A.M. Here we spend the rest of the day,
as there is much of interest to look over. There might be a book
written confined to Baalbec, or Heliopolis, its ancient name, the
former meaning God of the Valley, the latter City of the Sun. But
time will only permit me to give you a few outlines, and advise you,
if ever in Syria, not to fail to see the most wonderful ruins in the
world. You will be amazed by both quantity and quality of the ruins,
covering acres of ground. In its walls are stones for you to examine,
sixty-three feet long, thirteen feet in breadth and width, that weigh
twelve hundred tons, some of them twenty feet from the ground. How
to place such a stone in position would be a hard problem for the
stone-masons of the nineteenth century to solve. In wandering through
these, you are continually reminded that once, notwithstanding its
vastness, it must have been beautiful. The beautiful stucco-work of
to-day might well be traced back to the carving in stone seen in these
ruins. It is somewhat of a mystery who commenced these temples. Some
suppose it to have been Solomon. It must have been a man of great
resources.
Baalbec has now five thousand inhabitants, many Christians among them,
and a much better class of people than the average in Syria. It was at
one time a commercial centre. It is beautiful for situation, is near
the base of the Anti-Lebanon Mountains, near the head of the plain or
valley Bekaa, or the old name Cœle-Syria, and divides Anti-Lebanon from
Lebanon. There is a large spring coming out of the mountain about a
mile above the town, which forms quite a river of pure water that flows
through the city; and the plain below this covers the valley about
Baalbec with beautiful groves and great variety of trees, both useful
and ornamental. Up to this fountain, named Rosel Ain, from the town, is
a charming drive, the avenue lined each side with willows nourished by
the stream of water that follows the avenue. At the west you see the
Lebanon Mountain; and a short ride will take you to the cedar groves,
the pride of this historic elevation. Those forests, we understand,
have been greatly reduced since Solomon’s time. You will remember that
Hiram furnished Solomon with great quantities of this timber when he
built the temple. Solomon sent eighty thousand men to perform the work.
This would open the eyes even of a Maine or Michigan man, to see such
a logging camp. This was used in Solomon’s palaces, as well as the
temple. Herod also drew upon the forest. In history wars and rumors
of wars have hovered around Baalbec; and it has suffered in that way,
as have all important centres in this country. At one time one of the
temples was turned into a fortress.
Sun-worship was the leading idolatry, and every year they sacrificed
human beings. At a later day Constantine came in, and for a while
established Christian worship. The destruction of these temples has
mostly been by earthquakes,--granite columns, from four to six feet
through, broken in pieces, piled up in heaps, the wall in many places
shaken down.
Friday morning, the 10th, we are on the east side of the Cœle-Syria
valley; and in leaving this place, Baalbec, we take a carriage road,
which is quite a treat to us. Following this road, we cross to the
west side of the plain, then, turning southward, we ride all day down
this beautiful valley, and at night are camped near Shatora. At this
place we strike the diligence road from Damascus to Beyrout. This road,
seventy miles in length, was built by a French company, and crosses
over Mount Lebanon. It must have been expensive; but they apply the
toll to it, so they receive about twenty per cent. on their investment.
The road is a fine one, and the engineering over the mountain made me
think of the railroad over the Rocky Mountains.
SATURDAY, the 11th.
To-day we finish our camping tour. We are to cross over Mount Lebanon,
reaching Beyrout, thirty-five miles distant. So at six o’clock we are
in the saddle, and soon begin to climb the mountain, looking back down
into the valley and across to Anti-Lebanon; and in the distance beyond
is old snow-capped Hermon. This old fellow has had his eye on us most
of the time for the last ten days; but up we climb until about eleven
o’clock, and find ourselves on top of Mount Lebanon, and at twelve stop
for lunch at the town of Kahnel Sheik. You will remember that our
first lunch was at Bethel; and here at this place we say Amen, and bid
good-by to our tents.
From this point you can see the blue Mediterranean; and upon an
elevation lies the city of Beyrout, dipping her feet down into the
sea. This side of the city, and at the foot of the mountain, is a
valley sweeping around the city, covered with trees, dotted with white
cottages, forming the suburbs of the city, the sleeping place for the
busy crowd that spend the day-time near the sea. We can look down into
many ravines, see many villages tucked away in retirement, and at other
places they have hung them up on the mountains, and we wonder how in
the world the people ever reach their homes; but, where there is a
will, there is a way.
The day has been one of grand scenery; and, after halting an hour, we
move on down the mountain, and when within some four miles of the city
we meet a very pleasant surprise. It seems the people of the American
college here in Beyrout had been watching us, and were ready to give us
a welcome. In the distance we saw a troop of men coming on fine horses.
This cavalcade proved to be President Bliss, who was born in Georgia,
Vt., with his professors, also Mr. Gibson, the American consul.
President Bliss has a personal acquaintance with some of our party, and
we were very pleasantly escorted into Beyrout.
The last few days we have been among the mulberry-trees, and one of the
products of this country is silk. In Damascus there are three thousand
hand looms weaving this article, also great quantities produced here
in Beyrout. So, young ladies, if you admire silk dresses, here is the
place to come.
Over the road between here and Damascus, which I have referred to, they
run a vehicle each way every day, called a diligence. It is somewhat
different from a Concord coach. It seats twelve persons, all inside,
except the man that holds the ribbons. They start early in the morning,
reaching their destination at 5 P.M., covering the seventy miles in
that time. Six horses is the number used, driving three abreast; and
they have a fresh relay every six miles.
We spend eight days here in Beyrout, and then sail for Athens, making
several calls along the coast.
Will give you more about Beyrout and beyond here in my next letter.
VIII.
BEYROUT, May 16.
You have been following us in our camping tour, and perhaps you would
like to take a glimpse of our caravan as we are camping and also on
the move. We have some sixteen tents, each tent accommodating two
persons, also dining and cooking tents. The members of the party from
Springfield have a tent by themselves. It is fifteen feet in diameter,
being round, the sides six feet high, with a conical top, and tent
pole in the centre reaching up fifteen feet. The canopy top projects
over the sides some twelve inches, making a neat finish, and is held
out by guy ropes. The outside is striped excepting the top, which is
white. The inside is covered with beautiful needlework, squares,
diamond-shaped pieces, flowers, etc., handsome as tapestry. The ground
is our floor, but is covered with carpets. We have two beds with iron
frames, table, two wash-bowls, two pitchers, brass candlestick with
candle, chairs, etc.
Around the tent pole, up some six feet, is buckled a strap with hooks
for hanging clothes. We sleep sound, and come out fresh in the morning.
There may be a few bugs, spiders, or fleas that will want to get into
bed with you before morning; but that, you know, is nothing, when you
are on a picnic.
We found out after we were on the way from Jerusalem that we had one
hundred and five horses, mules, and donkeys, and forty-eight men,
dragomen, muleteers, and helpers to move us. We have two large copper
bells, large enough to call people to church, that are put on the
leading mules of our baggage train. These they ring in the morning at
5.30 o’clock to call us to rise and prepare for breakfast, which is
ready at six. Before you leave your tent, you must pack your trunk and
valises; and while at breakfast these articles will be taken out and
packed in large rubber-lined bags, ready to strap on the mules.
We have for breakfast tea, coffee, good bread, omelets or fried eggs,
and mutton chops. When you come out of the dining-tent, you will find
nearly all of the tents down and packed. Before we are called in the
morning, men start with our lunch-tent and eatables, which consist
of bread, cold chicken, beef, and mutton, cold boiled eggs, raisins,
nuts and oranges. We are in the saddle at 6.30, and proceed, led by
dragomen, of which we have three, one of these being always at the rear
to look after the stragglers and lazy ones. Then there are several
helpers. So if a lady’s saddle should turn or girt break, or any other
trouble occur, there is always some one at hand to see that it is
righted. Our three dragomen all speak English, and are fine fellows.
Our managers, Mr. Vicker, an Englishman, and Mr. Voight, a German, are
also with the party.
About noon or before we spy our lunch-tent, usually in some grove or
by some good spring. Our horses are turned over to the helpers, who
have their grain and feed-bags with them; and we go to our lunch, and
usually before we are through we hear those big bells, and, looking
out, will see our baggage train passing. This train makes no stop after
it starts in the morning until it reaches our next tenting place. We
wait one and one-half hours after this train passes before we begin our
afternoon journey. We have four ladies that did not dare risk horseback
riding so long a journey, so hired palanquins. This is a narrow wagon
body with a wooden top, with strips of wood on each side running out
before and behind, forming shafts for the mules, which have on a large
pillion saddle; and these shafts are attached to that. A man on a
donkey leads the front mule, and a man behind brings up the rear, thus
taking two men, two mules, and a donkey to run one of these vehicles.
They charge five dollars per day for them. They have proved rather
troublesome things over some of the rough places we have travelled.
They usually start these vehicles on ahead, as they do not go as fast
as the horses like to travel.
About four or five o’clock we usually spy our white city in some
grove or by some spring, which is always a delight. The tents are all
numbered, and each one knows his number. When we alight, the first
thing is to find our tent with beds all made up, baggage intact, etc.
In a few minutes the bell rings for tea, which with crackers they
furnish us on arrival. Being thirsty, about three cups of weak tea with
as many crackers as you please are very refreshing. Then you can rest
in your tent or visit among your neighbors. The latter is the most
popular thing to do. At seven the bell rings for dinner. First course,
hot soup, then follow usually three courses of meat and fish, closing
up with some fancy dish and raisins, nuts, and oranges. Our head cook
is paid four dollars per day, and we think he is worth it. When you
retire, you can have your hot-water bags filled if you wish; and I
notice a good many of them skipping around among the tents, as we get
cool nights in this country.
Before starting on this tour, we had our doubts on the matter; but the
idea of seeing so much of interest nerved us to the battle. But we can
now say that we have enjoyed it, and come out hale and hearty. Some of
us have become so attached to our horses that we almost want to take
them home with us.
IX.
BEYROUT, May 17, 1895.
April 15 we landed on the sultan’s territory, and have been and are
still under Turkish rule. We expect to leave the 19th for Athens,
making several stops at important places along the coast.
Turkey is under the iron hand of Mohammedanism, being filled with
Mohammedans, Mussulmans, Bedouins, etc. There are only a few places
where Christianity gets much of a foothold. Beyrout is one of them;
but the great principle for the healing of the nations gains ground
hereabout as the doctor said about his patient,--“improved wonderfully,
but very slowly.”
We talked with the missionaries at Damascus. They said, if one of the
natives should change his religion from Mohammedanism to Christianity,
his life would not be worth a penny. The only thing he could do would
be to flee the country. Therefore, direct mission work is virtually cut
off; and all they can do is to work among the children, educating them
and instilling into their minds the principles of freedom.
There was an English lady at work there who was converted at the age of
twenty, a lady of culture and wealth, who has a brother in Parliament.
After her conversion she felt that she must give her all to the mission
work. She commenced her work in Damascus, and has already educated six
hundred children, and is still at the good work,--a consecrated life.
I believe the time is coming when Turkey will wheel into line, and
the principle that is grinding the people to the earth will give way
to those principles that elevate humanity. The American college here
is doing a good work. This college was endowed largely with American
capital. They have nearly two hundred and fifty students. The president
and professors are having a strong influence on Beyrout, which is a
growing city. When President Bliss came here thirty or more years ago,
there were forty thousand people here. Now there are over one hundred
thousand, and it is unquestionably the brightest town in Syria.
Tuesday, the 13th, our party took carriages, and drove to Dog River,
up the bay, seven and one-half miles. From this river comes the water
supply for the city. On our way we pass the old stone chapel where,
it is said, Saint George had the tussle with the dragon. The river is
named from what tradition says: that there was a stone dog out in the
sea, at the mouth of this river, that used to bark at the approach
of an enemy. Sensible dog, surely. Another tradition, and a more
sensible one, is that there was a peculiar-shaped rock on the cliff by
the sea, that, when the wind blew hard, made a howling noise, like a
dog. However, aside from all the dog business, it is a place of much
interest.
The new road that has been lately built up the bay has a beautiful
stone bridge across this river near its mouth as it empties into the
sea. The Lebanon Mountains at this point almost reach the blue waters
of the Mediterranean; and just before you reach the bridge, at your
right, you will notice the old Roman road, winding its way up the
mountain. Here at the commencement of this road is much of historical
interest.
Many tablets of large size are cut in the rocks of the mountain. The
first one you notice speaks of the history of Napoleon, and is the
latest one, being carved in 1860. This famous general came out to fight
the Turks, and one of his brave generals fell here. There are several
tablets of the Pharaohs, also one that is supposed to have been placed
there by Sennacherib, some seven hundred years before Christ. You
will remember that he lay siege to Jerusalem, and was at Samaria, and
had cut off all supplies, so there was a terrible famine, when Elijah
prophesied that in so many hours bread would be sold in the gates of
Samaria, etc. The angel of the Lord caused Sennacherib’s army to hear
the approaching enemy in great numbers, and fled in wild confusion; and
the lepers were the first ones to enter the camp and find plenty of
food.
This old Roman road was, no doubt, the one he took his army over; and
the tablet might have been placed here in memory of that event. As we
climbed up over this road, we thought of Mark Twain’s saying, that
you could tell where these Roman roads were by finding the places
where there were the most stones. Another of Mark’s neat sayings has
been buzzing in our ears the last three weeks,--that people here know
nothing about distances in miles. You ask them how far any place is,
they always say so many minutes or hours. Mark went into a tailor shop
to get a pair of trousers, and he told the man he wanted them so many
seconds around the waist and so many minutes down the leg. No doubt the
tailor knew just what he wanted.
Our ride to Dog River, the entire seven and one-half miles, was through
gardens and mulberry orchards. The trunks of the trees are allowed
to grow about seven feet tall, then they throw out shoots, in number
anywhere from fifteen to thirty on a tree, and are allowed to grow to
the length of some five feet. This growth is obtained in a few weeks,
and the shoots are full of tender leaves, which are cut off and fed to
the worms; and other sprouts grow in their places.
They raise a sort of bamboo or cane here that grows six or eight feet
high. The natives cut this, and build booths in the orchard, setting
it up on end, and throwing a covering over the top. Inside they build
shelves on which you can find the silkworm. They throw over them these
green mulberry leaves, and the ravenous fellows devour them. They are
fed three times during the day and twice in the night. They appear
to be very religious in their habits. They fast every week, eating
some five days, then fasting two days. In forty days they are through
with this world’s goods, and commence to make goods for other people,
forming the cocoons from which the beautiful silks are made that all
admire.
As you pass along the streets of Beyrout, about every third place
you look into you will see the hand loom running, weaving silk for
market. One occupation we have found here in Beyrout that we have not
seen anywhere else; that is, fortune-telling. You will see old duffers
sitting on the sidewalk, with a cloth some twenty inches square,
covered with fine sand; and beside them an ink-horn, pen, and paper.
They look a person over, and with three fingers dot the sand all over,
and will then write out your future history. But the future of the
Congregationalist party is unfolding as fast as we care to know it.
Therefore, we leave these old Arabs alone in their glory.
Many of the streets here are lined with beautiful trees. The pride
of China, looking much like the pepper-tree of California, is very
abundant. It has a heavier foliage, and many would prefer it to the
pepper-tree. Then we find another tree they call the macher, and
one has to see it in order to know its beauty. It is large, some
twenty-five feet high, and literally covered from top to bottom with a
blue or purple flower; and you will never pass one without admiration.
Wednesday, the 15th, we were all invited to a reception at the college
from 3 to 7 P.M. Being one and one-half miles away, carriages took us
there, and came for us at 7 P.M. The college buildings are located on
high ground away from the business part of the city, close to the blue
sea, so near seemingly that you could throw a stone into its waters.
They were hoping to give us a chance to view and admire one of their
beautiful sunsets; but, unfortunately, it was cloudy. The Lebanon
Mountains with their variegated green, and the blue waters of the
Mediterranean, with the expiring rays of day mingled with the shadows
of coming night, form a picture that will satisfy the eye of all lovers
of the beautiful.
We were shown through the college buildings, and were very much
interested. The museum was fine. They have a fine chapel, given by Mr.
Monroe, of New York, seating one thousand people. William E. Dodge in
his day did much for this institution. His sons are still interested.
They have a fine astronomical observatory, with fine telescope with
twelve-inch glass, manufactured by Warren & Swazey, of Cleveland, Ohio,
at a cost of over eight thousand dollars.
At five o’clock we went to the spread in large rooms, suitable for the
occasion. Tea, coffee, and lemonade, and such biscuits and cake we have
not looked upon or tasted since we left America. It was like attending
a church sociable. They have connected with this college a medical
department with a four years’ course of study, turning out thorough
physicians that have been successful in their vocation.
We found the president and professors, with their wives, daughters,
and sons, remarkably cordial and social; and we came away feeling
indebted to them for a royal good time, which we placed in the book of
our remembrance, and it will be one of the pleasantest episodes of the
Congregationalist tour.
This American mission, now Presbyterian, has been at work in Syria
since 1821. We have also visited the girls’ school, publishing house,
and church connected with this mission. Many eminent and scientific
men have been connected with this work, such as Eli Smith, Van Dyck,
Thompson, and others. They have a beautiful Sunday-school chapel,
built on the spot where Van Dyck translated the first Arabic Bible.
This chapel has its class-rooms with sliding glass doors, and would
do credit to any American city. In the church they have service every
Sunday at nine o’clock in English, and at eleven o’clock in Arabic. We
attended the English service. They have a fine organ, excellent choir,
having a fine soprano singer. The publishing house is doing a good
business, turning out many Bibles in Arabic and publishing a paper.
But the government annoys them in this matter. Nothing can be printed
in this line without first being sent to the censor. If there is
anything he does not like, he draws his pen through it; and that ends
the matter. The government is very jealous, and the mails are watched
closely. It is hard to get a newspaper in or out of Turkey. Every
telegram is examined by some government official. No cipher telegrams
can be sent from this country. However, this printing establishment has
pluck and forbearance, and are employing over fifty hands, doing some
fine work, and are waiting for the sun of righteousness and freedom to
arise and shine, which, they believe, is sure to crown their labors.
We find there is a section of country here, called Lebanon, that is
ruled by a Christian governor. He is appointed once in five years by
the sultan; but the European powers dictate in the matter, and will not
allow a Mohammedan to be appointed. This territory includes the range
of the Lebanon Mountains, also the Anti-Lebanon, and the valley lying
between. These mountains I have referred to in writing up Baalbec, and
spoke of the improvement of the people of that place, especially the
female portion.
I believe the Christian nations should and will erelong make a demand
on Turkey, and not allow the iron hand of superstition to grind the
people any longer. Beyrout in appearance is not old enough to be called
antique nor young enough to be giddy. Its early history has nothing
startling. It was at one time destroyed in consequence of its rebellion
against Antiochus VII., but afterwards was rebuilt by the Romans,
and named Augustus Felix after the Emperor Augustus, with a view to
pleasing his friends.
Herod Agrippa at one time embellished it with baths and theatres,
and caused combats of gladiators to be exhibited, etc. After the
destruction of Jerusalem, Titus caused numerous Jews to enter the lists
against each other. At one time it was held by the Druses. In 1840 it
was bombarded by an English fleet without much damage, and recaptured
for the Turks. But the days of war are passing by, yet there are more
swords than ploughshares in Syria to-day. But we expect to see the
transformation take place soon, when the people will rejoice.
X.
According to our itinerary we should have left Beyrout the 15th; but
the running of the steamers had lately been changed; and we were
obliged to wait until the 19th, giving us some eight days in Beyrout.
But the American consul and our college friends made it so pleasant for
us that the time passed very quickly.
Our party have avoided as far as possible travelling on the Sabbath.
Only once before since we left have we encroached on holy time. When
we left Port Saïd, we took steamer for Jaffa Sunday afternoon; and
Sunday, the 19th, our steamer was to leave Beyrout for Athens at twelve
o’clock. Rev. Mr. Horton of our party preached at nine in the morning
to the college boys and others. Text, “I am not ashamed of the gospel
of Christ.”