_From Cabul to Bamean--The Helmund_, _and Oxus rivers_.
_24th August_, _1839_.--Left Cabul for Bamean, and marched to
Urghundee.
_25th_.--To the Cabul river, distance twelve and a half miles; diverged
from the Cabul road at Urghundee Chokey, striking obliquely across a
ravine that debouches into the main valley at this point. The course of
the river ENE. or thereabouts, then we entered a ravine to the west side
of the river, and commenced ascending the pass, which is not difficult,
and although rather steep at first, subsequently it becomes merely
undulated, the surrounding hills of the pass have the usual character,
but are separated by mere ravines. Vegetation very scanty; Senecionoides
very common, as also _Joussa_ and Statice of Dund-i-sheer; here I noticed
the Solora found in the wood at Kilatkajee. The Barometer at the summit
of the pass, 22.148: thermometer 60 degrees. An extensive view is had
from it, up the Cabul river, the valley of which is well cultivated, but
presents nothing very striking in its neighbouring mountains. Great
numbers of sheep passed us going towards Cabul, also numbers of Patans
with their families, all on camels, than some of which last nothing could
be finer. The women's dress consists of loose gowns, generally bluish,
with short waists coming almost up under the arms, and leggings of folded
cloths; they are a gipsy-like, sun-burnt, good looking people. Numbers
of asses laden with grain were also passed. At the halting place
indifferent apples only were to be had. Slight rain fell in the
afternoon from east, then it became heavier from west.
_26th_.--Distance eight miles, the road lay along the Cabul river up a
gentle ascent, over undulated ground; features of country the same,
villages, etc., abundant. Heavy rain set in from the west after our
arrival at the encamping ground at 4 P.M., with thunder. Night hazy,
heavy dew.
_27th_.--To Sir-i-Chushme, distance ten miles, direction continues
easterly up the Cabul river valley: features the same; road generally
good, here and there stony, crossed a large tributary falling into the
Cabul river, from the north at Juljaily, a large village, the largest in
the valley, and very pretty. Poplars and willows in plenty along river.
Near Sir-i-Chushme the valley becomes narrow; the river passing through a
gorge, on the left side of which on rugged rocky ground, are the remains
of a tower. The rocks here are mica slate, reposing at a considerable
angle, occasionally nearly vertical. The surface is thinly vegetated,
Silenacea, two or three _Muscoides_ (981), Scrophulariae sp., common,
etc. (see Catal. 971, etc.) Beyond, the valley again widens, presenting
similar features to those just mentioned. To the right side of the
valley there is a beautiful narrow ravine, bounded on the south with
springs, to the north by a noble bleak rugged ridge, with much snow; it
has the usual features, namely, a shingly inclined plane between huge
hills. The village of Sir-i-Chushme is built on a rising ground or small
spur, surrounded by numerous springs which supply the source of the Cabul
river; the bed of which above them is nearly dry. The springs abound
with the usual water plants, a Cinclidotoid moss in abundance, a Celtoid
tree stands over one spring; Peganum continues. A shallow circular pool
occurs at the foot of the hills, on which the village is built; it is
crowded with the peculiar Cyprinidae of these parts, {390a} some of which
attain three pounds in weight, as also a small loach. {390b}
The cultivation throughout this valley is good. The soil is however
heavy, but in places it gives way to a brown mould: rice is cultivated up
to Julraiz, but not beyond, millet (Setaria), Indian-corn, lucerne,
mustard, beet root; beans and peas are very common.
Great pains are taken with watercuts, which are led off into each ravine
that debouches into the valley, at elevations of sixty to eighty feet
above the river; opposite each, the river where led off is bunded across.
The watercuts or courses are in some places built up with stones. Apricot
trees continue, also mulberries near Julraiz, but they are not
productive.
Timber is cut in good quantities, and is floated down in the spring to
Cabul. We continue to meet flocks of sheep and camels with Patans,
Momums, and Ghilzees going to Cabul, thence to Julallabad; after selling
their produce at Cabul, they return in the summer to the same pasturages.
The oxen used to tread out corn are muzzled: grain is winnowed as in
Europe by throwing it up in the wind, the corn falls nearest the wind,
the coarse chaff next, then the fine chaff. Sir-i-Chushme is about the
same height as the pass into the valley of the Cabul river.
English Scrophularia were observed to-day at Julraiz. We obtained all
provisions cheap at this place, but of very inferior quality compared to
Cabul.
The most common plants are Senecionoides and Plectranthus; Artemisiae one
or two, some Carduaceae. Very few novelties occur: hedges of Hippophae
and roses, Salvia very common to-day; asses were seen laden with dried
_Ruwash_ leaves.
_28th_.--To Yonutt, twelve miles, continued for a short distance up the
Sir-i-Chushme valley, then we diverged to the north-west, still following
the principal streamlet up an easy defile; on reaching a beautiful
_kila_, differently ornamented from the usual form, we diverged along the
same ravine much more to the west. We continued doing so for five or six
miles, passing a little cultivation in every possible spot capable of it,
and four or five forts. The ascent then commenced to be steeper, still
continuing up the watercourse which was very small; this we soon left,
passing over five ridges of easy access, the third being the highest.
Barometer 20.365: thermometer 80 degrees at 10.5 A.M.; after this we
descended the 5th ridge or kotal, 200 or 300 feet, which is very steep,
having a watercourse at its bottom; direction of stream lies to the
north, thence ascending we again descended gradually over an open stony
ridge, until we reached the fort of Yonutt, where we encamped near a
green wet spot, visible for some distance.
The road here and there was bad owing to stones; except at the last
kotal, or ascent, it was nowhere very steep, but difficult enough for
camels, especially up the ascent of the 1st kotal. It lay up a ravine
not unlike others we have seen, the ascent being considerable, but
gradual, when we left the watercourse, however, we came on a different
country, very elevated (1st kotal not under 10,000 feet), longly
_undulated_, the mountains generally massive, rounded, here and there
rising into peaks, especially to the south, near Yonutt, where there is a
fine ridge not under 14,000 or 15,000 feet, rugged with spots of snow;
the mountains to north of this are more rounded; slate and limestone
abundant, but not a tree from the base of the 1st ascent. The ascent is
very practicable, the road is made, or artificial in many places, soil
soft and broken: there is water at seven miles from Sir-i-Chushme, and
even at the foot of the 1st kotal, at least there are two or three of the
usual villages; there is one with its wall demolished. Many granite
blocks are strewed on the road. For ponies and horses, even laden, the
road is very easy, but for draft it is difficult. We experienced a cold
cutting west wind from 11 A.M. Grass is plentiful along all the moist
spots, but it is useless as the camels prefer the Carduacea of this
place, though a bad fodder for them.
[Sir-i-Chushme ridges: m392.jpg]
Not much change was observed in the vegetation for half-way up the 1st
kotal or ascent; willows and poplars continue to nearly one mile from the
last village. Here and there along the ravine or streamlet, Salvia is
very common, Senecionoides, Bubonoides on rocky ground, Sinapis,
Verbascum decurrens used in the Himalayas for German tinder, Statice of
Dund-i-Shere, Muscoides of yesterday, Urtica of Cabul, Malva
rotundifolia, Hyoscyamus 1-labiat., Polygonum prostratum of shingly
spots, Composita dislocata, Leucades, Boraginea, Boraginis fasciae _of_
_before_. About Kila Moostaffur Khan a coarse tufted grass, Centaurea
oligantha common throughout, first found at Khilat-i-Gilzee; Onosma
major, Cochlearia, Dianthoides. Chenopodium diclinum, villosa, Astragali
2-3, Cichorum, Linaria angustifolia, Euphorbia angustifolia, Marrabium,
Hyoscyamus of Quettah, Testucoides annua appears about here, Epilobium
minus, Rumex, Lactuca fol. cost. subtus spinosis, Melilotus, Silene
angulata, Arenaria, calyce globoso inflato, Echinops of Cabul. The water
plants are precisely the same as those of Cabul.
For new plants see Catalogue 980, etc.
Summit of 1st kotal Statice of Dund-i-Shere, Statice grandiflora,
Dianthoides, several Astragali, one with the pinnulae dentato serratis,
petiola spinosa, a tufted Monocotyledonous plant with terete canaliculate
subulate leaves, _Salvia_, Gramen alterum, Composita dislocata,
Carduacea, this is the most common plant on the open rounded parts, while
the others occupy the rocky sides of the hills. The vegetation is
however very poor.
Cultivation various, as seen in different stages along the gorge up to
the ascent. Thus, people are seen ploughing for the next year's crops
amidst stubble fields, and lucerne; but above and throughout the ascent,
no crops are cut, while the wheat and barley on the descent are in the
ear: mustard very common. Several encampments of what are badly called
black teal, and paths are to be seen very frequently over the hills in
most directions, together with flocks of sheep. A large road leading off
to the south-west from the summit is seen; from this our road is well-
marked.
_29th_.--Halted: every tillable spot is made use of about Yonutt, where
there is a fort with forty families. The crops are chiefly wheat and a
four-awned barley, the grain is fine though scanty, and the plants are of
stunted growth. Ravens the same, round-tailed eagle as at Urghundee, and
Percnopterus, wagtails, three kinds of Conirostres, and an Alauda are
found here, one or two Sylviae. The sward about this place is abundant,
affords good pasturage for a few horses, and water is plentiful. This
sward is chiefly occupied by a Leguminous Caraganoid shrub, rather
thorny, and not unlike some species of Barberry in habit, this is
abundant, and is first met with in the ravines beyond the Oonnoo pass,
Cyperaceae, viz. 2-3, Carices, small grasses, Leontodon, Astragaloid
caerulens, Trifolium album, Composita corona, Cnicus acaulis, and
Gentiana pusilla, compose the sward chiefly; in the drier parts of it
there is a very fine Carduacea, which appears very local.
The hills about are all either clay slate, pure slate, or micaceous
slate, the strata generally vertical.
Descended the ravine which the rivulet passes down, to where it joins the
Helmund, the hills bounding it are of no great height, but the slips are
sometimes bold. The Helmund runs between rocky cliffs, its bed not much
broader than the stream, the water is clear, rapid, and the column
considerable.
This gorge is picturesque, the sides being generally precipitous.
The plants of these hills are, Umbelliferae very common, Statice 2,
Carduacea, Ephedra, Labiatae of Karabagh vel similia, Arenarioid out of
flower in the crevices, a large Mattheoloid, Leucades, Dianthoides foliis
undulatis, Artemisiae two or three, one a peculiar one, No.--a shrubby
Astragalus, stunted scraggy Polanisia of Cabul? Campanula of Karabagh in
the bed of the stream, Cnicus of Kot-i-Ashruf, and Salvia are excessively
common, Artemisia pyramidalis, two or three: mosses occur on the banks,
and several Gramineae, see Catalogue 1,005, etc. Cnicus alius,
Verbascum.
[Helmund gorge: m393.jpg]
_30th_.--We continued ascending gradually, crossing a low ridge covered
with sward, and then descended to surmount another ridge, which appeared
to me to be as high as the top of the Oonnoo. We thence descended,
crossing several small ridges; and, at about the distance of five miles
from the commencement of the day's journey, suddenly turned north,
entering a gorge of the usual structure, drained by a small stream, and
thence came on the Helmund, not much increased in size as compared with
the point at which we had seen it first, but in a comparatively wide and
partly cultivated ravine, containing three or four ruined forts. We
continued a quarter of a mile down the Helmund, then ascended up a
considerable stream through a similar gorge, until we reached an
encamping spot, after performing thirteen and a half miles. The
barometer at the Helmund stood at 21.206, thermometer 63 degrees in sun.
Kohi-Baba is first seen from the first ridge, but it is seen beautifully
from the second, and still better from some distance beneath this; it is
a noble three-peaked ridge, the eastern peak is the largest, and of
angular, conical shape. The other two are rugged; the central one is
perhaps the highest; the lower portions cliffy, evidently slaty.
The river up which we came after leaving the Helmund, is fully equal to
that in size; it is very rapid: the ravine is very narrow, occasionally
widening into swardy spots. We encamped nearly opposite Kohi-Baba, the
conical peak of which here seems a huge rounded mass, with heavy patches
of snow, particularly along the northern ridge: the second range to the
south is very precipitous and cliffy: at this place a small streamlet
falls into the river from the direction of Kohi-Baba.
No particular change in vegetation is observed: two or three Umbelliferae,
a Scrophularia, Geranium, Ranunculus aquaticus, Herba immersa, foliis
anguste loratis, Potentilla, _Panserina_, a new Graminea.
The most common plants are still Carduaceae and Salvia; Rosa occurs also,
(Senecionoides ceased some time before) Statice, Scutellaria common,
Verbascum, Euphorbia linearifolia, Linaria ditto, Mentha: no change in
water plants, or in those of the sward, Chenopod. faemin. villos, coarse
grass, No. 998, common; the chief new feature is _Ruwash_, the dead red
leaves of which are abundant. Two villages were passed after leaving the
Helmund, both ruined, yet all spots cultivated, several with Cicer.
Watercourses as high up cliffs and hills as 100 feet above the river.
A dreadfully cutting dry wind blows down the ravine, and in our faces all
the way. Limestone cliffs occurred, about which the vegetation became
rich, more especially near a bridge consisting of trees thrown across a
narrow portion of the river, at a point where the stream is very deep;
near this are two willow trees of a different species. A fine Rosa, a
new Epilobium, Aconitum, Salisburifolium, a small Crucifera, one or two
Compositae, a curious Polygonum, a Rumex, a Dianthus, Silene, three or
four Umbelliferae, among which is the yellow Ferula? of the Kojhuk pass,
two or three new Leguminosae, Saponaria, Silenacea inflata, Cerastium may
be found among them, or in the fields close by.
_31st_.--We ascended the high bank or cliff over the bridge, and
continued up the ravine which lies over the river, but whose bed is too
narrow for a road: we passed two or three villages, the road undulating
over ground covered with granite boulders, or rather small masses,
rounded only when exposed to weather; the bottom of each undulation is
covered with sward and giving exit to a small stream; sometimes we came
on the bed of the river. At six and a half miles we came on a fort, used
as a custom house, and diverged again to the east up a ravine; the Arak
road continuing along the river. We passed another fort, and then
commenced the main ascent of Hajeeguk. In a ravine to the left, 100 feet
above us, was a large mass of half frozen snow: barometer at the foot of
main ascent 20.320, thermometer 80 degrees. The ascent is rather steep,
but easy enough: barometer 19.755, thermometer 80 degrees. Thence the
descent was steep for about 800 feet, and then gradual for four or five
more, when we encamped on sward. From the top of the pass we had a
beautiful view of the _ridge_ of Kohi-Baba, running about WNW.,
presenting a succession of fine bold rugged peaks, the conical mass was
not seen well, as there is heavy snow on it, and on some other parts of
the ridge.
Water is plentiful in all ravines, the lower parts of which are covered
with swardy grass. Cultivation is less advanced than at Yonutt,
consisting chiefly of barley; every capable spot is made use of. Boulders
of antimony, also a large mountain close to, and on the right of our camp
composed of this ore, which is very heavy; a ruined fort on the hill near
us, shewing again how some of these ridges become disintegrated. A
_cafila_ passed with huge loads of cloths of various sorts, carried on
asses, going to Bamean: they paid toll I observed at Choky fort.
The vegetation in the snow ravine was rich, and varied in the swardy
spots: Ranunculi 2, Swertia 2-3, Gentiana a fine one, Junci, Carices,
Euphrasia, Triglochin, Veronica as before, Cardaminoides; near the snow
in sward, a pretty Primula in flower; two other Pediculares. A Brynum on
the dry parts of the ravine, two Astragali in flower 2-3, Cruciferae,
Echinops, Carduaceae, Silene pusilla, Stellaria, Campanula odorata,
Rutacea about springs, Parnassia? Astragali 3-4, in flower, long past
this elsewhere, Thalictrioides, Secaloides.
See Catalogue Nos. --- of exposed face; Staticoides of Yonutt, Graminae
998, Carduaceae very common, Statice aliae rare.
The hill over which the pass runs, is chiefly covered with a herbaceous
Carduacea out of flower in profusion, one or two Astragali, an
Artemisioid, small Compositae, and the abundant Carduaceae of Yonutt,
Astragaloid pinnulis on the west side, _Koollah hujareel_, Statice,
Macrantha dentatis; a spinous leaved Carduacea, different from the Zamea
leaved ones out of flower, Gramin. 998 common, Chenopodioid? Arenaria
spinosa, Onosma, Carduacea alia, two or three Astragalus primus.
Altogether the vegetation is different from that of Oonnoo, in the
comparative absence of Statice, Dianthoid, and Astragali.
Similar swardy spots occur on the west of the pass, a large Swertia,
Caraganoid, Carices, etc. as before, Gentiana of Yonutt, a new
Potentilla, Salix fruticosa; here also occurs the first Orchidea I have
seen in Khorassan: it belongs to the tribe Orchis, but is out of flower.
On the 1st of Sept., I re-crossed Hajeeguk, directing my way again into
the snow ravine from the top of the pass, and found a number of plants,
for which see Catalogue. A Campanula abundant about springs at 12,400
feet. The vegetation of the ravine close by the little fort is rich, and
would repay two or three days' halt, as it runs a long way up the
antimony hill, Swertia in profusion, Geranium also, Stellaria, a fine
Conyzoidia.
I had here an opportunity of observing the curious effect of a patch of
snow in retarding vegetation, all the plants about, being as it were a
spring flora, even such as at similar elevations elsewhere, were all past
seed; such as Astragalus primus. Again, why do some plants flower sooner
at such elevations than at other lower places? such as Cardamine, here
past flower, but not commencing at Cabul; is it because this plant will
flower in the winter in Cabul? so there may be a law requiring such
plants to flower in wintery situations by a certain time? The idea is
perhaps absurd, as their growth depends exclusively on the power of the
sun.
_September 1st_.--After re-crossing Hajeeguk we continued our march to
Sohkta, five and a half miles. The road continued along a considerable
descent throughout, at first down the valley in which we had halted to
the west, thence down the large Kulloo valley in a northerly direction;
towards the mouth of first ravine or valley it is bad, passing across a
land slip, then it crosses the bed of a huge torrent falling at a great
rate, and obstructed with boulders; the right bank, a high almost
precipitous mountain, the left a high aggregate of granitic and other
boulders. Water abundant, divided into three streams or so: this torrent
comes direct from the nearest portion of Kohi-Baba, which appears of easy
descent, presenting beautiful peaks. The road then keeps along left
bank, undulating over the ravines, down which water flows from the hills
on the eastern side; some of these are very steep, and the road itself is
infamous, as may be supposed, crowded with boulders, and impracticable
for wheeled carriages: one precipitous ravine we passed through, the
rocks consisted of blackish, curiously laminated, and metallic looking
stone. On descending one steep ravine, we then came on the road leading
up to the Kulloo mountain, where we halted.
A good many villages, with forts, as usual were passed; the cultivation
more advanced than at our last halt, crops consisting chiefly of barley.
One good fort was observed close to our halting place opposite the
direction of the small Kulloo ravine; across the valley a well marked
road is seen running up a part of Kulloo ridge, at a lower elevation than
that which we crossed.
Poplars and willows occur in the large valley, particularly towards
Sohkta, a small orchard of stunted mulberry trees. Cultivation
consisting of peas; barley of fine grain, resembling wheat when freed
from the husk.
The plants of the valley of Kulloo were badly observed, as I was greatly
tired and fatigued. Polygonum fruticosum re-occurs, Silene, Clematis
erecta, Tragogopon, Salvia but less common, a curious Cruciferous plant,
Lactucacea purpurea of Cabul, Chenopodium villosum faemin. Dianthus,
Saponaria, Lychnis inflata, oats common in fields, the common thistle,
Urtica, Caragana abundant along the bed of the river, Papaver. On rocks
about camp, 2 Salsolae, Glaucum, Umbelliferae of the Yonutt ravine,
Artemisiae, Rosa _Ribes_! Scrophularia alia.
The valley is very narrow at camp, the river running between precipices,
in some parts passable without wetting the feet.
_2nd_.--From Sohkta Kullar-Rood to Topehee, eight and a half miles. The
road lay in a northerly direction for a quarter of a mile, then turning
up a steep ravine, with an ascent for 800 feet; then small descent, then
levellish, until we came to a black cliff, over which another steeper but
longer ascent extended, then it became levellish for some distance; two
other moderate, extended, longish ascents, led us to the summit, which is
500 feet higher than that of Hajeeguk. The descent continued steep and
most tedious on reaching the precipitous ravine of Topehee, the road
wound over small spurs, until we came to a grove of willows near the
village. The road although steep is not bad, the soil being soft, that
of the upper parts and of the descent, even annoying from the sand, both
might with little trouble be made easy, but especially the descent.
The mercury of the Barometer on the summit at 11 A.M., stood at 19.513,
at 11.5 A.M., 19.506, Thermometer 66 degrees.
The camels all came up but one, though very slowly; to them as to us, the
descent was more tiring than the ascent.
From the summit a fine view of Kohi-Baba was obtained, running to NW. by
N. To the NE., another high range, but not so marked as Kohi-Baba, was
seen running in a similar direction; on this, two considerable peaks
present themselves, but only visible when lower down.
A splendid view of the Bamean valley is here obtained. We have now
obviously passed the highest ranges: to west where the country is low and
flat; to the north, the mountains indistinctly visible, are beautifully
varied, presenting rugged outlines 10,000 feet above Bamean, also a view
of an unearthly looking mountain, most variedly sculptured, is obtained,
with here and there rich ravines and columnar sided valleys, presenting
tints very varied; in those of the lower ranges, rich rosy tints are
predominant; also niches in which gigantic idols are plainly seen: also a
view of Goolghoolla, looking as it is in reality, a ruined city: a fine
gorge apparently beyond the Bamean river, and a large ravine due north,
by which I expect the Bamean river reaches the Oxus; not a tree is to be
seen, except a few about Bamean. The whole view is indescribably
volcanic, barren yet rich, requiring much colouring to convey an idea of
it.
[Bamean Idols: p398.jpg]
To the top of the pass it is three and a half miles; the character of
Kulloo mountain is different from that above described, it is rounded,
and composed of a curious compact slate, towards the summit well covered
with plants, large tufts of Statice, two or three kinds, two undescribed;
immense quantities of Artemisia, coarse tufted grasses, Onosma, Carduacea
herbacea of Hajeeguk, uncommon; Triticoides 998, not common; Alium fusco
purpurea common. A few exposed rocks occur on the summit. The ravines
are all dry, there being no water or very little in them, and no
cultivation; thus the contrast visible on both sides of the Kulloo river
which runs round the foot of the mountain, is remarkable. Vegetation
being distinct on either side.
Yet the ravine of Topehee shows, that when exposed to the action of
water, this rock becomes very precipitous, cliffy, easily dislocated: the
latter part of the road winds over a portion of this. Chakor, Ptarmigan
a fine bird, voice somewhat like that of a vulture, to which it is
perhaps anologous.
About Sohkta or in ravines, Euphorbia linearifolia, Ephedra, Asteroides,
Rosa Ribes, Composita dislocata, Artemisiae, Aster pyramidalis,
Chenopodium villosum faem., Senecionoides.
Scutellaria, Scrophularia, Santonicoides, Polygonum fruticosum, Salvia,
Artemisia linearifolia, Centaurea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Umbelliferae
of Yonutt, Stellaria, Glaucium, Labiata nova, Hyoscyamus minor,
Lactucacea, Linaria, Salsola elegans, Marrubium, common thistle, Rumex,
Potentilla anserina, Sinapis of Siah-Sung ravine, Berberis, Secaloides,
Statice, _Marmots_, Statice glauca pedunculata, Stipha of Nakhood,
Aconiti sp., Ferula? Spiraea facie frutex, Ribes, Muscoides.
First ridge Dianthoides, Statice three to two glaucous species, one
sessile the other pedunculate, Ferula, Scutellaria, Labiata
trumpet-shaped calyces, Astragali, Diacanthus, Stipa, Ribes, Arenaria
spinosa, Triticum carneo pubescens, Pulmonaria corolla trumpet-shaped,
Salvia sparingly, Pommereulla, Artemisia in profusion, Spiraeoides,
Chenopodium villos., faemin. parvus, Leguminosae two or three, _Ruwash_
sparingly.
Not much change beyond 12,000 feet, at that height Glaucium in abundance,
with a few Hyoscyamus parvus, Borago.
Labiatifol, inciso dentatis occurs throughout, Sinapis of Siah-Sung
straggles to 12,000 feet.
[Topehee cliffs and ravine: m399.jpg]
The same vegetation continues down to Topehee; on the red hills over its
ravine, the plants are different. Portulacea cana, several pretty
Salsolae, a Polanisia occurs, with Statice two or three, a straggling
Astragalus, Ferula, Peganum re-appears! Cerasus canus, Carduacea Frutex
of Mailmandah, fructibus combretiformibus, Muscoides which is a Sedum,
Polygon. fruticosum common, the usual plants of cultivation, etc. etc.
_3rd_.--We proceeded from Topehee to Bamean, a distance of twelve miles,
for two and a half miles down Topehee ravine. The road is a decent
descent, although steepish: from thence turning abruptly at the Bamean
valley, we cross the river, which is of considerable size, but fordable,
although rapid. The road then extends along the left bank, not in the
valley which is occupied by cultivation, but winding over and round the
bases of low hills and cliffs, forming a northern boundary; throughout
this part the road is villainous, often impeded by huge blocks. After a
distance of about ten miles it improves, the valley expanding into a
cultivated plain.
Topehee valley narrows towards its mouth or exit, which is walled in by
high, red, raviny cliffs; above, in its upper parts it is well cultivated
with beans, barley, wheat, and oats, and contains two villages: it opens
into the Bamean valley at a village also called Topehee, there the Bamean
valley is well cultivated, with oats intermixed with barley or wheat,
trefoil, etc., it then narrows, forming the bed of a ravine occupied by
Hippophae, Tamarisk, etc., then it widens again.
The structure of the hills is curious, and generally exhibiting the
appearance of having been much acted on by water. They are often cliffy,
composed either of limestone or a soil of red clay, with which salt
occurs in abundance, conspicuous from the white appearance, or springs.
Crystals of carbonate of lime are frequent, limestone, or coarse
conglomerate with large rounded stones, occurs; together with a curious
laminated clayey rock, with white and ochraceous layers intermixed. The
tints most various, as well as the sculpture of the mountains: here
ravines representing tracery occur: there, columnar curiously carved
cliffs, exhibiting all sorts of fantastic forms: here, as it were, a hill
thrown down with numberless blocks into the stream, scattered in every
direction; and here, but this is rare, very red horizontal strata,
colours various, generally rosy, especially the clayey cliffs: here and
there the colour of the rock is ochraceous, at one place its structure is
slaty. The curious intermixture of these colours owing to the weather,
is striking.
From the head of two of the ravines by which considerable torrents flow
into Bamean river, beautiful views are obtained of the Kohi-Baba, whose
peaks according to native authority, stretch sixty miles to the westward
of Bamean, without much diminution in height. The scenery, however, is
less beautiful after emerging into the widened part of the valley, where
the hills are less varied both in form and tints, than they are in lower
parts: fine views however of Kohi-Baba are occasionally had.
Salsolae are the prevailing plants of the rocky sides of the valley,
Clematis erecta common, here and there a small Statice.
Caves occur throughout the wide portion of the valley, but chiefly on the
northern side; they also extend a little way into the narrow portion,
where they seem to be excavated into clayey-looking, red, earthy
limestone, or more commonly conglomerate, of coarse grey, or reddish
colour.
The caves are most common in two cliffs composed of conglomerate mixed
with transverse strata of the same rock, 3,400 feet high, presenting a
rugged outline; and between the two, which are 800 yards apart, large
idols are carved. These cliffs in some places have suffered little from
the action of the elements, as testified by the perfect nature of the
opening of the caves, and the corners, etc. of the niches enclosing
idols; in others they are furrowed by the action of water; in others
again slips have taken place to such extent in some, as to cause the fall
of all their caves, or of their greater portion, thus exposing the
galleries, etc.
The base of the cliffs is irregular, formed of the same conglomerate and
clay, but covered more or less by boulders, evidently brought down by the
river; by these many caves are choked up, so that originally the cliff
might have been perpendicular to the edge of the base, and if so, the
caves in the cliffs, and the idols, are of later date than those of the
rugged base. But more probably the cliffs, and the caves, are much as
they were originally, the boulders having been a subsequent deposit.
The western corner of the cliff beyond the large idol, is much destroyed;
on this, the force of the current would have acted: a breakwater
occurring along the returning face.
The caves are very numerous, but are confined chiefly towards the base of
the cliffs, not scattered over them as I believe Burnes represents. These
are of no size, finish, or elegance, and it is only their number, and the
extreme obscurity of their history, that makes them interesting; the
roofs are usually arched, and the walls are often supplied with niches,
and covered with a coating of tar of some thickness, and intense
blackness. The galleries are low, arched, and admit one person at a
time, or a line of persons with ease; they often form the ascent to the
upper caves now inhabited, but originally they were enclosed in the rock,
they are defended in such cases by a parapet.
The largest caves are those about the idols, but I see none of any size.
They are often domed, the spring of the dome is ornamented with a
projecting frieze, some of these are parallelogramic, in one instance
with an ornamented border thus.
[Part of a frieze in caves near Bamean: m402.jpg]
Some of the caves are situated as high as, or even above the tops of the
idols; all parts within the rock are lighted by small apertures.
Access to the large idol is destroyed; the smaller one is gained by a
spiral staircase of rude construction, and by galleries. The floor of
the galleries is rugged, the steps and the cement of the conglomerate
having worn out from between the masses of rock. The images all occupy
niches in the face of the hill: two are gigantic, the rest not very
large. They are generally in the usual sitting posture, and rather high
up, while the larger ones are erect, and reach the base of the cliffy
portion of the rock. They are all male, and all obviously Boodhistical;
witness the breadth, proportion, and shape of the head, and the drapery;
both are damaged, but the smaller is the more perfect, the face of the
large one being removed above the lower lip; the arms are broken off,
showing they were occupied by galleries. The drapery is composed of
plaster, and was fixed on by bolts which have fallen out, leaving the
holes. The arms in the smaller one are supported by the falling drapery.
The height of the large image in the niche is 135 feet.
The pictures are much damaged, the plaster on which they were painted
being mostly very deficient, all the faces are damaged by bullets or
other missiles: their execution is indifferent, not superior to modern
Burmese paintings; the colours however are good, the figures are either
grouped or single, and one is in the style of the time of Henry VIII,
with a hat and plume, others represent groups flying--one a golden bird,
another a man with a hemispherical helmet, all are much damaged. The
hair in some is dressed as in the modern Burmese top-knot, often
surrounded by a circle.
Otherwise the niches are not ornamented, except in one instance, as above
alluded to; the head of the smaller figure was formerly covered by the
roof, as evident from holes or troughs for timbers in the gallery. These
holes are now inhabited by pigeons, and the lower ones by cows, donkeys,
fowls, kids, dogs; some are filthy apertures blocked up by stone and mud
walls; the doors irregular, and guarded between two giants.
An old tope occurs near some small figures, it is composed of stones very
much disintegrated, with curious blocks of _kucha_ work, and large
Babylonish bricks; the smaller figures are much destroyed, some
completely; all are in alto-relievo.
The plants about Topehee valley, are Cichorium, Centaurea lutea, Berberis
common, Salvia, Cicer cultivated, Lucerne, Centaurea angustifolia, Cnicus
of Koti-Ashruf, ditto of Karabagh hills, Triticum, Asteroides, Avena,
Centaurea glauca, the common thistle, Ephedra, Mentha, Rumex, Melilotus,
Medicago, Artemisia pyramidalis, Lychnis inflata, Saponaria, Bromus,
Verbascum, Cerasus canus, Ferula, Statice, Salsola, Astragalus, Polygonum
fruticosum, Composita dislocata, Clematis erecta, Clematis alia,
Echinops, Leucades, Pulicaria fragrans, Hyoscyamus parvus, rare;
Geranium, Rosa, Fabago of Maidan, fructi echinatis, Arundo, Hippophae.
Halted at Bamean till the 6th, and inspected Ghoolghoola or Bheiran,
which presents extensive ruins: those of the city are almost destroyed;
but those of the citadel are more perfect, and situated on a mound 300
feet high, which still stands with steep banks or fortifications,
apparently of Kafir origin, generally _kucha_, with bases formed of
boulders. Three lines of defences remain on the valley side; and the
remains of a ditch 50 feet broad at the mound on the east side. _Pucka_,
or burnt bricks are common among the debris, also pottery, but this is of
the ordinary sort: I observed but few _pucka_ bricks in the fortification
on the west side. Great masses of rocks have been thrown about near the
building of the fort, and some of the lower bastions were built on these
masses. The mound is chiefly occupied by Salsolaceae, some of which
exist in profusion. Nothing seems to be known about the history of the
place, except that it was built by _Julal_, to whom the Mahommedans fix
_Ud-deen_.
Quails are abundant in the fields about Bamean; it is a curious thing
that in many of these fields oats far preponderate over other grain; yet
they are not cut, although all the seeds have fallen out of the ear! Can
it be cultivated solely for the straw?
Fine groves of poplars occur about certain portions of the valley; from
beyond this to the south, a beautiful view is obtained, embodying the
cliffs with the large image, and the back hills whose varied surface and
tints it is impossible to describe, so as to convey a correct idea of
their fine effect. The poplar grove contains some ordinary Mahomedan
_tombs_. The trees are the P. heterophylla, but the leaves are much
smaller and more silvery underneath than usual; a beautiful poplar of
large size and unencumbered growth, of the same sort occurs in the ravine
beyond the small image. Abundance of wild sheep's heads are preserved
about all the sanctified buildings, together with a few of those of the
ibex, and fewer of the wild goat. The plants of Bamean require no
specification, the hills are very barren, chiefly occupied by Salsoleae,
of which 6 or 7 species occur.
The water plants continue the same as at Cabul; Hippurus and Triglochin,
Mentha, Cochlearia, Naiad? Potamogeton of Siah-Sung, Polypogon.
The other plants are those found in cultivation, and present no change,
Anchusoides alba, abundant. Choughs very abundant; wild pigeons, ravens,
Laurus; the nuthatch, a noisy but not unmusical bird, Chakor, together
with small partridges, but these are rare; several Conirostres.
The greatest curiosity is a genuine trout, {404} this appears rare, the
spots are very bright, the largest caught was only six pounds in weight.
I could not take any even with the fly; but I caught with this,
Schizothorax, or one of the universal Khorassan Cyprins.
The range of the thermometer is great; before sunrise it varies from 28
degrees to 30 degrees! in the sun in midday it is 100 degrees! when there
is no wind, and the mornings are delightful.
One of the long-tailed clumsy Brachypodiums occurs in the fields: bears
also are found here.
_Joussa_, Mentha, Tanacetoid, Polypogonum, Cichorium, Plantago, common
thistle, Potamogeton longifolium, Labiata arvensis of Yonutt, Centaurea
lutea, Cyanea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Hippuris, Ranunculus, Potamogeton
pectinata, Triglochin, Convolvulus arvensis, acaulis, Glaux, Capparis of
Arghandab, Centranthera pinnatifida, Malva rotundifolia, Asteroides,
Lactuca purpurea.
Salt is obtained in some places from the red earth, as also alum an
earthy substance of a whitish or brown colour, and irregular surface,
sent in quantities to Mindosh, called Zak.
_6th_.--To Zohawk, down the valley two miles beyond the mouth of Topehee
ravine, or embouchure of the Kulloo-Rood. The angle is occupied by a
Kafir fort called Kojhuk, of very large size, situated on a precipitous
dusky-red and very high rock, facing towards both rivers; the defences
reach down the eastern face of rock to the Kulloo bed, and are in good
preservation, more ornamented than the modern fort, and better
proportioned. A pretty grass sward occurs here, with Tamarisk.
The fort must have been of great size, and is chiefly weak, _i.e_. to a
native army, from depending on the river for supplies of water, for it is
commanded from the opposite sides of either ravine. The bed of the river
under the east face, presents the remains of outworks to protect the
supply of water, which is perhaps a sign of its being a recent structure?
The works are good, much better than those of the Affghans, the view of
the fort from half a mile down the Bamean river, with the sun gilding the
ruined battlements, while the precipice contrasts with it its dusky-red
colour, is beautiful.
The Bamean river, especially after receiving the Kulloo-Rood, is of
considerable size, but fordable at the head of most of the rapids, its
course is rapid, and its waters greyish, while those of the Kulloo are
quite colourless; its bed is of some width, presenting a capital road
over green sward, with plenty of willows, Lycium, Hippophae, Berberis,
and Tamarisk.
About one mile east of our camp, its ravine turns to the south. Wild
ducks, quails, chakor, and trout occur whose haunts are in holes, and
taking the worm are easily caught.
This fort of Kojhuk is as well worth examining as any place we have seen,
the dusky-red rocks are coarse conglomerate. A violent wind prevails up
the ravine, commencing about 2 P.M. A curious staircase situated at the
corner towards Bamean, ascends through rock, the bottom of which is
defended by a bastion and round wall; near, or close to this a slip has
occurred, destroying part of the wall and blocking up one exit.
Ascended the cliff by the gateway of the Kulloo valley, and found the
line of fortifications, with good loop-holes and parapets extend two and
a half miles up, a few houses likewise occur. The path leads through the
face of the solid rock: abundant defences, with arched buildings occur
above: this cliff is almost totally separated from the upper citadel by a
ravine: the citadel has four lines of defences surmounting a steep ridge
with outworks on the Kulloo river, the bed of which is 60 yards broad.
_7th_.--Proceeded to Erak, six miles. We crossed the Kulloo-Rood, and
immediately ascended its right bank, 100 feet high; then descended into
the ravine up which we continued, then leaving it we struck over the spur
of a high mountain; the ascent being about 1,000 feet, thence we
commenced a steep descent, of 5,600 feet into the Erak valley, up which
we proceeded for two miles distance and encamped. From the top of the
pass, a fine view is obtained of Kojhuk, and the valley of the Bamean
river, presenting a rich and varied surface beyond description, with
beautifully sculptured rocks, of purplish-red colour, which are seen up
the Kulloo, close to Kojhuk.
The hills and ravines are however very barren, nothing but Salsola
occurs. At the top of the pass a section is partly laid open, shewing a
mass of conglomerate, twenty to thirty feet thick, resting on red clay.
This conglomerate being less acted on by water than the clay, the rocks
often assume curious shapes, and are occasionally even fungiform.
[Sculptured rocks near Kojhuk: m406.jpg]
We observed here a new partridge, at least one to which we were not
accustomed; it is almost the size of chakor, black on the back, with a
grey neck, and very shy; chakors abundant here in coveys. The valley of
the Erak is very narrow, but well cultivated, and with a good many
villages.
All the mountains in this direction have rounded shapes or outlines, the
precipices variously curved, the surfaces are thus formed by the action
of water on the outer strata; when this is once exposed, the changes
appear often rapid, as may be imagined in a country of such low winter
temperature. Caves occur in the Erak valley, chiefly situated in a dirty
white conglomerate.
[Erak ravine: m407.jpg]
_8th_.--Halted and encamped eight miles up the Erak ravine on a swardy
spot: the road easy, ascent bad in some places, but generally good,
particularly for the latter part of the march: the rocks in some places
rising in abrupt rugged cliffs, generally rounded, slaty. We passed one
mass of snow about two miles from camp, botany good, especially about the
snow; so much so, that it employed me all day.
Caragana appears at about 10,000 feet, a Tamerioid of large stature in
abundance, Asphodelus, not as I thought a Mesembryanthemum, but a
beautiful and very distinct species; see Catalogue for other plants.
Our camp is within one and a half mile of the head of the Erak ravine,
where snow occurs in two large masses; patches of snow also occur on the
ridge or a little below it; these ridges rise about 1,200 to 1,500 feet
above us.
Unsettled evening, snow during night on all the ridges about us with
frozen sleet in camp. Thermometer at 6 A.M. 31 degrees.
Large round-tailed eagle seen.
Barometer 20.164, thermometer 61 degrees; boiling point of Wollast. new
thermometer; barometer 650, old ditto 555.3.
Swardy plants. Parnassia, Swertia, Gentiana, Carices, Composita
coronata, Primula, Labiata, Menthoides, Caprifoliacea! Pedicularis,
Umbelliferae.
Plants of hill sides Asphodelus, Leguminosae alter, a Nakhood Moschata,
Nakhood Labaria violacea, Mulgedioid, Euphorbia, Astragalus prior,
alter., Pedicularis, Onosma versicolor, Boraginea, stamens exserted.
_9th_.--Proceeded to Kurzar, eight miles up a ravine to the left or
eastward, about one and a half mile, then the steep ascent of the pass;
thence the descent was as steep for 800 feet, then gradually down a
swardy ravine until we came to the Kurzar ravine, which we followed till
we reached the Choky. The road good; the ascent for 1,000 feet is very
steep, the soil good, hills rounded, here and there slate rocks
outcropping. No change in vegetation. Passed a mass of snow: abundance
of snow on the summit where the mercury in the Bar. stood at 19.200;
thermometer 58 degrees; boiling point of Wollast. new thermometer; Bar.
648.5, old 539.1, this being the highest spot we have visited.
The vegetation of the summit presents no change from that of the rocks
and hill sides 1,500 feet below. There is a good deal of vegetation,
Carduaceae, Statices, Astragali, a few tufted grasses forming the great
bulk, _Nakhood_ rare on the Kurzar side, 500 feet down, Statice becomes
most abundant, it is curious that on the sward of this side, neither
Fumariaceae, nor Campanula were observed, Silene fimbriata one species.
Caragana all about, even at Kurzar in ravines; Primula abundant, also
Swertiae, generally all four plants are found at the Hajeeguk snow
ravine, and may be found between this and Erak, with some interesting
novelties. The distance to Bamean by both routes is within two miles of
the same, the Kulloo-Rood being the shorter, but Hajeeguk the best road.
That of the Kulloo river is followed to Zohawk. The weather unsettled
with showers of hail, clouds and sunshine: and heavy gusts of wind
occasionally from Kohi-Baba, whose eastern extremity comes in sight after
entering the _Kurzar_ ravine. No view from the summit of the pass.
[Pass between Erak and Kurzar: m408.jpg]
Pedicularis, Campanula, Rubiaceae, Hippuris in flower, Phleum, Carduacea
of Yonutt, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf, Pulmonaria, corolla tubiform. Euphorbia
linearifolia, Composita dislocata, Cardamina lutea.
_10th_.--Proceeded to the Helmund, thirteen and a half miles; the only
novelty met with is a curious spring about half-way between Siah-Sung
halting place, and the Helmund consisting of limpid water emitting a
copious ebullition of gas, not water, as the overflow is very small; a
copious deposition of fine red earth is formed all round, which looks
especially bright in the springs themselves. The water possesses a
peculiar acid taste.
Quails abundant, especially about this place, the water of the Helmund is
very clear and affords excellent fishing with worms which are greedily
taken, and also with the fly, particularly towards evening, by a species
of Gonorhynchus.
_11th_.--Returned to the foot of the ascent of the Oonnoo, nine miles:
nothing new having been met with, except that Kohi-Baba is seen to great
advantage, from the higher ridges of this pass. On going to Bamean we
saw it for the first time from the ridges beyond Yonutt, badly from the
first, but beautifully from the second ridge. The weather continues as
usual threatening in the evening, clearing up after sunset: there is less
snow on Kohi-Baba now than when we went.
_12th_.--Proceeded to Sir-i-Chushme, eight miles, which was one continued
descent. Passed Killa Moostaffur Khan, built by a Kuzzilbash; it is the
prettiest fort in the country. The common Carduacea disappears below
9,500 feet, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf commences here.
Temperature of the spring at Sir-i-Chushme, 55 degrees (1.5 P.M.); that
at Kallo, on the other side of Hajeeguk, 45 degrees.
All crops are cut, and the ground ploughed or preparing; in one place the
young wheat is springing up; but the country generally looks very brown,
and the hills small. Abundance of black teal. Plectranthus reappears at
the foot of Oonnoo, Verbascum rare, if any, on the Tartary side of the
Hindoo-koosh. Abundance of Loaches or Balitora in the streamlets arising
from the springs.
13th.--Proceeded to Julraiz, eight and a half miles, having passed a
waterfall, as well as abundance of people going to Jallalabad. Bar.
22.760 at noon; Ther. 75 degrees.
14th.--Proceeded to Koti-Ashruf, where there is excellent fishing with
worms, the fish however did not take a fly, though they often appeared at
the surface: a large headed Silurus occurs, but I was unable to procure a
specimen.
15th.--Proceeded to Arghundee, where we met the Bamean force.
16th.--Proceeded to Topehee Bashee.
17th.--Returned to Cabul. Eryngium is rare between the foot of Oonnoo
and Moostaffur Khan's fort.