_Candahar to Cabul_.
The good old _Moolla_ of a mosque, to which we resort daily, gives me the
following information about the vegetable products of this country, from
which it would seem, that every thing not producing food, is looked upon
with contempt. The fruit trees, are--
1. _Sha-aloo_, _Aloo-bookhara_, (damson), which has ripe fruit in
August, the same time as figs; _Zurd-aloo_, (apricot),
_Aloocha_--apricot, _Shuft-aloo_, another kind of apricot; _Unar_,
(pomegranate); _Ungoor_, (grapes); _Unjeer_, (guava); _Bihee_, (figs);
_Umroot_, _Toot_, (mulberry); _Aloogoordaigoo_, _Shuft-aloo_, all these
_Aloos_ being Pomaceous.
The Elaeagnus is called Sinjit: it produces a small red fruit, used in
medicine as an astringent, it ripens in August, and sells at eight or
nine seers the rupee; it is exported in small quantities; but the plant
is not much esteemed.
The _Munjit_ is an article of much consequence; it is exported chiefly to
China and Bombay, some goes to Persia; the roots are occasionally dug up
after two years, but the better practise is to allow them five to seven:
the price is six Hindostanee maunds for a rupee. The herb is used for
camel fodder. The Affghan name is _Dlwurrung_.
The common Artemisia of this place is called _Turk_; the camels are not
so fond of it, as they were of the Sinab and Quettah sort; perhaps this
is due to their preferring Joussa, which is found in abundance.
The carrot is called _Zurduk_; it is dug in the cold months, and sown in
July; three seers are sold for a pice: both men and cattle use it.
_Turbooj_, (watermelon,) ripens in June; it is not watered after
springing up; four seers are sold for a pice. But I have not seen much
of this fruit.
The wheat is watered according to the quality of the soil, the better the
soil the less water is required, and this varies from four to eight
repetitions of water. _Jhow_ requires two waterings less. Wheat is
considered dear if less than one maund is sold for the rupee. One year
ago, three maunds of barley, and four of wheat were sold for a rupee.
Iris odora, _Soosumbur_; (the two kinds, and _Datura_ has the same name)
is indigenous.
The timber trees, or rather trees not producing fruit, and which the
_Moolla_ thinks very lightly of, are the _Chenar_, (plane), _Pudda_,
(Poplar?), Baid, _Sofaida_.
The fig trees are often planted in rows, they are very umbrageous, and
look very healthy. These, and the mulberry, are the most common; next
are the bullace and damson. Neither are worth introducing to India, nor
have I seen any thing yet in the country that is so.
It is certainly the interest of the inhabitants to keep the army here as
long as our commissariat places so many rupees in their hands. It may
indeed be questionable whether with an overpowering army, the rates paid
for grain and other supplies for the troops should not be established by
authority rather than advancing money for grain at exorbitant rates, when
the crops are entirely within the command of foraging parties. _Atta_
now sells at two and three-quarter seers the rupee, a mere nominal fall,
for the dealers will only give fifteen annas for a Company's rupee.
There is a curious _hazy_ appearance of the atmosphere over the city in
the evening, occasioned by fine dusty particles from cattle, suspended in
air; which, from their fineness, are long in subsiding.
This curious hazy weather increases daily, yesterday evening was very
cloudy, and this morning the wind rather strong and southerly up to 8
A.M.: and at 5.5 P.M. the sun is either quite obscured, or the light so
diminished, that the eye rests without inconvenience on his image. In
the morning the wind strengthens as the sun attains height and power.
The old _Moolla_ says that this weather commences in Khorassan with the
setting in of the periodical rains in the north-western provinces of
India, and continues with them. From the direction of the wind it is
probably connected with the commencement of the south-west monsoon at
Bombay, for the rains at Delhi do not commence before June.
The haze is so strong at times that hills within three to five miles are
quite obscured; it tends to diminish the temperature considerably,
especially between seven and eight of a morning; curious gusts of hot
winds are observed, even when the general nature of the wind is cool.
_21st_.--A fine and clear cold morning; thermometer 56 degrees at 7 A.M.
in the tent. Air fresh; thermometer 75 degrees at 9 P.M. A few drops of
rain at 12; _cloudy generally_.
_22nd_.--Thermometer 48 degrees at 5 A.M. Similar weather, clear and
elastic: south winds continue but of less strength.
Easterly wind prevails in the morning up to 9 A.M., after which hour the
westerly hot wind, variable in strength, sets in: the range of the
thermometer is then somewhat increased, although in the house it does not
rise above 90 degrees.
The _Moolla_ tells me, that snow is of rare occurrence at Candahar; he
mentions one fall in about four or five years. The rains last for three
months, and happen in winter. During the winter all occupations out of
doors are suspended, and people wrap themselves up, and sit over fires.
Clouds are of very rare occurrence, and then only partial.
The clouds, if resulting from the south-west monsoon, ought to be
intercepted by the Paropamisus and Hindoo Koosh, and rain ought to fall
along these and about Ghuznee at this time. In the evening a cool wind
sets in, indicating a fall of rain somewhere.
Rarity of dews in Khorassan: as dews depend on a certain amount of
moisture either in the soil or atmosphere, it follows that in a very dry
climate no dews will occur. The occurrence of the dews here at this
period, is another proof that rain must have fallen somewhere (to the
southward), to which the coolness of the weather is attributable.
Yesterday and to-day, the thermometer at 5 A.M. stood at 48 degrees, 49
degrees; at 8 P.M. 75 degrees, 72 degrees, the daily range in the mosque
is from 70 degrees to 80 degrees. Capt. Thomson suggests that the dews
observed here are either confined to, or much greater in the _Chummuns_,
in which the water is very close to the surface, as indicated _inter_
_alia_ by the green turf.
The kinds of grapes are numerous; those earliest ripe are the black, and
a small red kind called _Roucha_; which will be ripe in the latter end of
this moon. _Kismiss_ another sort, comes in July. The _Tahibee_ is the
best kind produced here, and the dearest.
Tobacco is cultivated chiefly along the Arghandab; it is planted about
this season, and gathered in two or three months, and requires to be
watered ten or twelve times.
The barley is now fully ripe, and is generally cut and thrashed in some
places. Pears in gardens are now ripe.
Candahar valley is of great extent to the westward, or south-west and
SSW.
The wasps, with large femora, I observe build their mud nests in houses.
The rarity of Lepidoptera, except perhaps some nocturnal moths, is
curious; Coleoptera are more common, but inconspicuous. Ants are
abundant in the mud walls. A small gnat with large noiseless wings, is
very annoying, and the bite very painful and irritating. Doves, and wild
pigeons are tolerably common, as also crested larks, and swifts.
Abundance of lizards; a venomous snake of brown colour, having an
abruptly attenuated tail.
Every thing that happens shows how credulous, and how unenquiring we are;
and in all cases out of our particular sphere, how extremely apt most are
to give excessive credit, where a moderate only is due. It is a generous
failing which it is difficult to condemn, particularly with regard to our
travellers in this direction. Instance Connolly, and certainly Gerard
whose acquaintance with Burnes and its results demands attention. It is
singular that his name scarcely occurs in Burnes' book, although his
scientific knowledge and MSS. submitted to Government, entitle him to be
considered an observant, and well-informed traveller. Pottinger is
another instance of what I have said above.
The general opinion is, and it is one which I have not discarded
entirely, that he threw himself into Herat, that he was throughout the
siege daily employed in the front of the garrison, and that it is owing
to his personal exertions that Herat was saved. I hear however on good
authority that he was at Herat accidentally, and wished to leave it when
the besiegers appeared, but was prevented by want of funds. So anxious
was he however to get away, as his leave of absence had expired, that he
was obliged to discover himself to Yar Mahommed, and request loans to
enable him to rejoin India. The Vizier at once secured him, took him to
Kamran, and hindered him from leaving, forcing him indeed to the
dangerous elevation of British Agent at Herat. His merits, if this be
true, rest on very different grounds from those generally supposed; his
courage however has been proved of a high moral cast.
The _Joussa_, the _Moolla_ tells me, is the _Kan Shootur_ or _Shootur_
_Kan_. Burnes' account of the _Turunjbeen_ or manna is correct, except
perhaps in the limits he assigns to its production. It is at any rate
produced here and sold in the bazar, its production while the plant is in
flower is curious, and worthy of examination; it may however be deposited
by an insect, in which case the probable period of its production would
be that of inflorescence.
There is some cultivation of Indian corn here, the plants have now
attained one-third of their growth.
Except in the immediate vicinity of the town, nothing can exceed the
sterility of the valley, or rather its desolation: scarcely a plant,
beyond the Peganum and _Joussa_, is to be found.
_Khaisee_, an excellent smooth skinned apricot, is now ripe, and is of
light yellowish colour, sometimes faintly spotted; it is a product from
grafts, the seeds are useless, as they do not continue the good qualities
of the fruit: it is here grafted on _zurd-aloo_, _thulk_, Potentilla
quinquefolia.
Melons and grapes are now coming in; the former, at least those I have
seen, have pale pulp, and are not superior. The grapes first ripe are
the ordinary black sort: we tasted yesterday some very good ones in the
_Moolla's_ garden. The _Kismiss_ are especially delicate, and another
large sort of very fine rich flavour, both were rather unripe. Those for
packing are still unripe. The trenches in this garden are very deep: the
vines are planted on the northern face only.
Gardens are very common to the south-west of the town. The valley of the
Arghandab is the most fertile part of Khorassan I have yet seen. A strip
of cultivation extends along the banks of the river, and from these last
not being high, the stream is easily diverted into channels for
irrigation. Seen from any of the neighbouring hills, the valley presents
one uniform belt of verdure, almost as far as the eye can reach, and the
view up and down is of some extent. The chief cultivation is wheat,
barley, and lucerne; _Chummuns_ also occur. Gardens abound, together
with fine groves of mulberry trees, the former are walled in, and are
verdant to a degree.
There is a bluff mountain to the north of Candahar, the disintegration of
which is so rapid, that it is evident from the slope of the debris, it
will in time bury the original structures.
The hills forming the ridge separating Arghandab from Candahar, as well
as all those rugged looking ones about Candahar, are of limestone, they
are much worn by the weather, and full of holes. They are very barren,
the only shrubby vegetation of any size being Ficus, which may be the
stock of the _Ungoor_, as it resembles it a good deal, Centaurea spinosa,
Paederiae 2, Echinops, Pommereulla, one to two, other Graminae, lemon-
grass, Dianthus, Peganum, Cheiranthus as before, Sedum rosaceum,
Gnaphalium, _Hyoceyamus_, _Didymocarpeae_, Gnidia, etc.
The Arghandab is a good sized river, with channel subdivided: its stream
is rapid and fordable; no large boulders occur in its bed; the
temperature of its water is moderate.
The fish are a Cyprinus and a Barbus, or Oreinus with small scales, thick
leathery mouth, and cirrhi; a Loach of largish size, flat head, reddish,
with conspicuous brownish mottlings, and a Silurus.
The hills forming the northern boundary of the valley are picturesque,
and of several series, and perhaps the subordinate valleys are not so
large and fruitful in this direction.
Between Arghandab and Candahar, two ranges occur; one interrupted: the
other nearer Candahar has first to be surmounted at a low pass; the pass
is short, rugged and impassable for guns. The inner ridge is much closer
to the cultivated part of the valley than the northern range.
Between it and the Arghandab, at least six cuts occur: these are met with
generally in threes, and are at different elevations; the inner one being
close at the foot of the hills; great labour must have been required to
make them. Numerous villages, some with flat roofed houses occur.
Arundo, Salsola, Plantago, P. coronopoid, Cnicus, Juncus, Veronica
exallata, Santalacea, Mentha, Lactucoides, Chenopod. 2-3, Panicum,
Samolus, Ceratophyllum; Salix occurs near the river; apricots, apples,
pomegranates, damsons or plums, bullaces, pears, mulberries and
raspberries in the gardens.
The shingle found about all the hills in Khorassan, can scarcely be
derived from any source but disintegration, it slopes too gradually and
uniformly for upheavement. If my idea is correct, the mountains will at
some period be buried in their own debris, of course inspection of the
shingle will at once point out whether this is true or not, more
especially _in all those places where the rocks are of_
_uniform structure_. There is a curious desert to the south and
southwest of Candahar, elevated a good deal above the valley, quite bare,
and stretching a long way to the westward: it is seen for forty miles
along the Girishk road.
_Curious reflection_.--Observed in ghee used as lamp-oil, a bubble
ascending from the surface of the water on which it floated, met by
another descending; the deception of this is perfect. That it is due to
reflection, is apparent from the variation of the length of the descent,
according to the angle under which it is viewed. When viewed from
beneath at a very oblique angle, the descent is complete, but if viewed
parallel to the surface, no appearance of the sort occurs. The
reflection is due to the surface of the ghee which appears to be more
dense than the rest, probably more oily; this mathematical reflection may
suggest others of a moral nature, touching our liability to mistaken
views of things, from observing only one side.
Old Candahar is about three miles to west of the new town; it is
immediately under a steep limestone range, running about southwest, and
not exceeding 500 feet in height. It bears marks of having been
fortified, and at either extremity remains of forts are still visible.
The fort of forty steps is at the north end of the range. The town is in
complete ruins; indeed none of the edifices are visible except those that
occupy the mound of stones, (with which they are partly built) probably
the site of the citadel. On three sides, the town is fenced by two
respectable ditches, the outer one about 50 yards wide; both are now,
especially the outer, beds of marshes; they were supplied by cuts from
the Arghandab river. Wells exist however. There is one white mosque in
good preservation. The works were strong, and much better than the very
indifferent ones of new Candahar; and the walls of the town were
prolonged up the face of the hills.
About Candahar, conical houses occur, probably for granaries. A curious
mosque cut out of the rock in situ, is seen on the Girishk road, with a
flight of steps leading to it, cut in like manner out of the rock. There
is also in the same quarter the fort of Chuhulzeenat, or forty steps; a
work not of very considerable extent; and as in other Asiatic countries I
have visited, troughs are cut in rocks for separating grain from the
husk. But there is no work to be seen indicating vast labour or any
genius.
Some remains of good pottery may be picked up; and the earth of which the
works, etc. were made, is filled with remains of coarse pottery.
_27th_.--Moved four miles to Shorundab, the country is very barren: not
much _Joussa_: the water is brackish at our present encampment, which is
within sight of Babawallee.
_28th_.--Proceeded to Kileeyazim, ten and a quarter miles, marched at 2
P.M. and reached the place at 6 P.M., the camels arriving one hour
afterwards: the ground is generally good, throughout stony, difficult in
places and undulated, particularly in two situations occasioned from
cuts. There is a square fort, situated at the halting place with a tower
at each corner, and on north face two; as well as towers at the gate: but
without windows. _Joussa_ is abundant, as also grass along the cuts.
Salsola rotundifolia, a Chenopodia, and a curious prickly, leafless
Composita and _Joussa_ occur, the latter most common, Artemisiae sp. Also
rock pigeons and the raven. Halted one mile to the east of the fort.
_29th_.--Proceeded to the Turnuk, near Khet-i-Ahkoond, distance fifteen
and a half miles. The country continues the same, no cultivation to be
seen before reaching the Turnuk. The road tolerable, over gravelly or
shingly ground: it was at first level, until we reached a mountain gorge,
when it became undulated. Passed the dry beds of two streams, the second
the larger: its banks were clothed with Vitex instead of Tamarisk. At
the entrance of gorge a fort similar to that of yesterday was passed.
Scarcely any change in vegetation. Artemisiae one or two, Centaurea
spinosa, Salsola cordifolia and aphylla? are the most common plants,
Euonymus and Malpighiacea? Polygonoides, occurred along the nullah, a
pretty species of the plant, Antheris globosis petaloideo-terminalis, in
profusion in some places, literally colouring the ground: close to it
another very distinct species, foliis connatis, floribus albis, a
Rubiaceous crystalline looking plant, another novelty; all the plants
about the hills at Candahar continue: Dianthoid, Statice, Paederia
villosa. Cultivation along the Turnuk, melons in small trenches, the
crops are now cut, _Jhow_ or _gaz_ along the bank: but there is not much
water. The hills around are apparently of limestone, very picturesque,
and presenting very fine cliffs. The valley of the Turnuk is here very
narrow, and the country very arid looking, completely burnt up. _Joussa_
rather scarce, _doob_ grass occurs along the river, the water of which is
discoloured.
_30th_.--Proceeded to Shair-i-Suffa, ten miles and six furlongs. The
country continues the same. The road extending along the right bank of
the Turnuk, over undulating ground for one and a half or two miles, is
bad, very narrow, and overhanging the steep bank of the river, scarcely
passable for wheel carriages without preparation. Vegetation continues
precisely the same: little verdure to be seen even along the Turnuk: the
hills desperately barren; a high mound occurs in middle of the valley
near our halting place, well adapted for a fort, but unoccupied. Small
fields of cultivation are now seen. A small species of mullet occurs in
the river: thermometer 101 degrees at 1 P.M. in the tent.
Nothing can exceed the barren aspect of this valley, which is near Khet-i-
Ahkoond, but at several miles distance, a few trees are visible in nooks:
the only green along the banks of the river, is occasioned apparently by
Tamarisk: the hills are picturesque, rugged, varied with bold cliffs, the
valleys are changed in structure, being now occupied by rounded undulated
ground, instead of hollow basins.
[River Turnuk banks: m363.jpg]
_July 1st_.--Proceeded ten miles, and halted on the Turnuk within one
mile of the tower of Tirandaz. The country continues precisely the same:
the road at first is bad, owing to the inhabitants having tried to flood
it. At a distance of six miles we ascended a small defile without any
difficulty; the remainder of the march being over undulating stony
ground: the valley then becomes narrow, and we again enter into the
arable part, which is especially narrow. The hills present the same
aspect. _Joussa_ very abundant, and also Artemisia, and a Salsoloides
flore ochroleuco. No villages are visible. We are unable to judge of
the extent of cultivation, because the country, which seems uniformly
dried up, is rugged and bouldery: on the right is the old bed of the
river, consisting of dry sand. We crossed one small nullah, when an old
fort became visible on a hill, in the centre of the valley.
_2nd_.--Proceeded to Toot, a distance of eleven miles, through a similar
country; the road dividing at the low hills approaching the river and
forming its banks, which are in places precipitous; the greater part of
the difficulties were avoided by taking the lower route, that along the
hills being impassable for guns owing to the large rocks scattered in
every direction, and detached from conglomerate hills. Two or three
nullahs were passed, one with a little water. The ground was besides a
good deal cut up towards the centre of the valley, and a water-cut was
crossed several times. Owing to the delay in making the road, the troops
did not reach the encamping ground before 8 or 8.5 P.M., the camels in
some instances not before 12 P.M. An attack is reported to have been
made on the baggage at the river where the road ascends the cliff: it was
prevented by a party of the 13th, who shot two of the marauders. _Joussa_
is plentiful, and Mentha in flower.
The Turnuk river is 20 feet broad, the current rapid, and the water
discoloured; the banks are sandy, 15 feet high: coarse grass, Clematis
scandens fol. ternatisectis pinnatis. _Jhow_ is abundant.
_3rd_.--From Toot to ----, nine miles and four furlongs. Road decent,
over the usual sort of ground, except in one place, where the bank
approaches the river; this defile is much shorter and much easier than
that at Tirandaz or rather Jillongeer: a small river with a little water
is crossed: here the road for a very short distance bends suddenly to a
little west of north, but having crossed a narrow and deep ravine-like
cut, resumes its original direction. The country continues precisely the
same, the valley however becomes narrow and more undulating, while the
peculiar limestone ranges appear to be fewer. Reached the encamping
ground in very good time, the vegetation almost precisely the same as
before, but with some willow trees. Many of the ravines are however,
actually covered with thickets, apparently of the prickly yellow flowered
Dioica shrub of _Chummun_; trees and these shrubs occupied by thousands
of a hymenopterous insect or fly. _Joussa_ very abundant: a village, the
lights of one were visible _en route_. The water of the Turnuk is
still very much discoloured, its bed shingly, and the ground near it much
cut up: a mill was passed on the river; the valley here not being 500
yards wide: the climate is more agreeable, though still very hot in the
middle of the day; in the shade, the air continues pleasant up to 10 A.M.
Thunder not heavy, was succeeded by a squall from the ENE.; little rain
fell, but there were clouds of dust.
_4th_.--Reached Khilat-i-Gilzee, distance thirteen and a half miles, from
our last encampment, direction NE. by E. as before: the aspect of the
country is unchanged, the road became somewhat difficult about one and a
half mile from camp, where a defile exists along the hills forming the
bank of the river; it was however much easier than that of Botee. Thence
we continued over undulating ground, leaving the Turnuk river to the
right, but reverting to it beyond the fort. Half-way the deep and steep
channel of a river presented a serious obstacle; the country gradually
rises until Khilat-i-Gilzee fort is passed, from thence it descends
somewhat. At this place there is a considerable expanse of irregular
valleys; and to south curious low undulated ground occurs: to the south-
east is a patch of table land, which is not an uncommon form in these
parts; some cultivation here exists along the Turnuk, which runs half a
mile below the fort, which is in ruins, occupying a hill not commanded by
any near ones. This is of no great height, and has two ramifications,
and in the centre the remains of a tower.
In the valley extending NNE. two villages with castles occur, together
with a good many low trees. Vegetation the same: a curious Antirrhinoid
plant occurs out of flower, Echinops, Carduacea, and a curious Centaurea.
Wet places abound in Rumex and Tamarisk along the river. Horsemen were
seen after passing the fort: two or three willow trees about the
villages. _Jhow_ or barley is selling for ten seers the rupee, _atta_ or
flour at eight.
_5th_.--Khilat-i-Gilzee is a very uninteresting place, with little
appearance of cultivation. The vegetation of the undulated ground
continues the same, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthemoides, remains of Tauschia,
and the former Cruciferae. The Turnuk discharges a good deal of water
much discoloured, and forming a series of constant rapids. The most
common plants are Artemisiae two or three species, Centaurea spinosa,
Salsola luteiflora, Almond groves, Iris crocifolia? vel sp. affinis,
Asphodelus, Mesemb., Salvioides, Thermopsis, Cichorium, _Joussa_, and
Mentha recur, the two last in abundance. The new plants are a
Chenopodium, Polygonum, Lotoides, Triticum, Astragalus, Scirpus,
Caesalpinioides, Centaurea micrantha, and Eryngioides: a spring occurs in
the old fort of Khilat-i-Gilzee.
Indian-corn is just sprouting up, barley and other crops ripe. Latitude
of Khilat-i-Gilzee 32 degrees 7' 30"; altitude, Bar. 24.740: the climate
is disagreeable from the violent sudden extremes to which it is exposed.
West winds during day, and east winds of a morning.
_6th_.--Proceeded to Sir Tasp, ten miles, north-east, road good over an
open undulating country, the only difficulty in the way arising from a
cut with deep holes in it. Vegetation continues precisely the same:
limestone hills less frequent, or at any rate much less rugged, and the
country assumes a much more open character. Artemisia most abundant, of
large size, Caesalpinia, Euonymus dioica, Centaurea spinosa, Echinops,
new plants two Linariae, Eryngium, Verbascum. Altitude 24.505, latitude
32 degrees 12' 22" north. _Atta_ has risen in price to seven seers a
rupee.
_7th_.--Arrived at Nooroock after a march of nine miles; still extending
up the valley in a direction north-east--direct on the star Capella. The
country is undulated; vegetation still the same. Artemisia most abundant
and of a larger size; road good: no fodder for horses, except along the
river: the valley open, distant hills on either side with a fine range to
the north of the camp, apparently composed of limestone, with abundance
of junipers, and the Iris of Dund-i-Golai very common. Hares, rock
pigeons, Alauda. Myriads of Cicada, and the Jerboa rat. The Turnuk
river is again occasionally in sight, valley apparently little
cultivated. Stipa very common, as well as Iris, Festuca vivipara,
Astragali sp., and Artemisia. Cloudy evening, followed by a stormy
night; wind southerly.
_8th_.--Reached Tazee, eight miles seven furlongs from Nooroock:
direction still the same, no change: the road good, extending over an
undulated country, except one or two small nullahs with rather steep
banks. A range of mountains seen to the north, called Kohi-Soork,
continue forming a long line, the southern boundary of which is broken:
we are encamped opposite a valley running east, presenting much
cultivation: several villages indicated by distant _smoke_: some trees
are seen here and there: the face of the valley is rather green,
indicating more water than usual. Vegetation is precisely the same; no
_Joussa_ or other fodder for camels than Artemisia and spinous Compositae.
Morning very cloudy and cold at 12 P.M. The plants met with are Chara,
Naiad, Polygoni 3, Malva fl. amplis lilacinis, on banks of river.
_9th_.--_Shuftul_, five miles: the direction lay towards the star
Capella: road bad, requiring to be made over three difficult ravines, all
forming beds of torrents descending from the Koh-i-Soork. The country
otherwise presents the same features. The Turnuk runs close under the
southern boundary of the valley, and is here a pretty stream of
considerable body. _Joussa_ grows abundantly on its immediate banks,
together with excellent grass and some clover, one or two new Compositae,
one of them a Matthiola, otherwise Artemisiae, Stipa, Centaurea spinaceis
herb. Astragalus, and Peganum, are the most common; Muscoides,
Plantaginacea reoccur, a curious _leaved_ Composita?
_10th_.--Halted yesterday, and went out along the banks of the Turnuk:
where I found twenty-six species not obtained before. Some cultivation
was observed, but as usual weedy, abounding with two species of
Centaurea. In ditches two species of Epilobium, Sparganium, Mentha,
Polygonum natans, Ranunculus aquaticus, Lotus, Carex, Astragaloid on
swards, on the sandy moist banks of the Turnuk: Epilobium, two Veronicae,
several Cyperaceae, 2 or 3 Junci, Cyperus fuscus. Alisma abundant in
swamps: small partridges: no chakor: hares, swifts, rock-pigeons. Springs
of beautiful clear water: temperature not changeable, 59 degrees; two
small platiceroid fishes in it; tadpoles. Temperature of the river 78
degrees. The fish of this river are the same as those of the Arghandab,
the large Cyprinus takes Cicada greedily. The vegetation of the hills is
the same: Cerasus pygmaeus and canus, common; the novelties were a fine
Composita, Plectranthus, Ephedra in fruit, Artemisia, and Astragal.,
formed the chief bulk; _Joussa_ is common on the river sides.
This place is 150 feet above the last, yet the increased elevation is not
appreciable to the sight: the tents of the army at the Tazee encampment
are distinctly visible. _Atta_ sold, at eight seers yesterday, barley
sixteen seers for the rupee. Where the sellers come from I know not.
_Atta_ was fifteen seers, but it was soon made eight by the approach of
the army, and to-day it has risen to four and a half.
_11th_.--Proceeded to Chushm-i-Shadee, ten miles six furlongs, direction
the same: road good, not requiring any repairs; it continues up the
valley but at a greater distance from the river than before; the valley
is enclosed in hills on both sides. Koh-i-Soork, the northern one, is
not very high, but bold and cliffy, with very little cultivation: the
country is less undulated. Chushm-i-Shadee is a beautiful spring, not
deep, but extending some distance under ground; large-sized fish are
found in it: apparently Ophiocephali, but only parts of their bodies can
be seen. Indian-corn and madder are cultivated: a new Asteraceous flower
was found. Passed a small eminence in the centre of the valley, about
three miles from Chushm-i-Shadee. _Joussa_ very abundant. Temperature
of spring 59 degrees.
_12th_.--Reached Chushm-i-Pinjup, six and a half miles, direction more
northerly; keeping Capella a little to the right: the country is
precisely the same, the road good, one or two easy ravines; one with
water in it.
The valley is rather wider, soil much less shingly, and capable of
cultivation; several patches of trees are visible in many directions,
indicating villages. We encamped opposite the entrance or gap between
the mountains forming hitherto the southern boundary, and a more lofty
range is seen running parallel with them, about east and west. This
range is of considerable height; presenting a _peculiar slope_ rising
almost half-way up, and very conspicuous: four forts are seen in this
direction; together with several patches of trees, and a good deal of
cultivation, but nothing to what might exist. Artemisia is the chief
shrub; several good springs occur: clover, and good grass are both
abundant for a small party; _Joussa_ in cultivation. The mountain range
to the north is very fine, and apparently of different formation from the
others; here and there whitish patches occur. There is a very evident
slope, which is very gradual from the northern range to the _peculiar_
slope of the southern.
Several springs of fine water occur: the temperature of which is 60
degrees. Fish are abundant about the mouths of these springs, which are
like caves; their waters form one of the heads of the Turnuk, along them
Mentha, Gramineae 2, Plantago major, Centaurea magnispina, Compositae,
Trifolium. In the spring Polygonum natans, and P. graminifol., Chara,
Cyperacae.
[Peculiar slope: m368.jpg]
_13th_.--Gojhan, the distance to this place is 12 miles 6 furlongs: it is
not within sight of the Turnuk, though still up the valley of that river,
with the same boundaries: a few ravines were crossed but they were not
difficult: the road, otherwise level, turning most of them, and capable
of easy transit. One small stream was passed, when we encamped on a
small cut with excellent water: the banks as usual clovery and grassy;
opposite this are two villages on either side of a gorge in the northern
boundary, both apparently fortified; the one to the north of the gorge is
of large size. The country is not shingly, but the soil is mixed with
small pebbles; to our right is a bold hill; vegetation the same.
_Bicornigera_ planta is very common, and a good deal of madder
cultivation occurs; wheat and barley all cut and thrashed or trodden out:
_atta_ selling eight and a half seers the rupee. Thermometer at day
break 49 degrees, the west winds continue strong: they arise about 11
A.M. and continue till sunset, sometimes even a little later; they are
not hot.
This place, and its environs, is one of the most promising looking I have
seen; the whole face of the country being perhaps capable of cultivation.
No _Joussa_ seen except perhaps among the cultivated fields; grass is
plentiful enough for a small force, and _Boosee_ likewise.
Quails were seen on the march at some distance: it seems to be a great
country for potash, and perhaps for camphor, which is evidently abundant
in one species of Artemisia.
_14th_.--Proceeded to Mookhloor or _Chushm-i-Turnuk_, twelve and a
half miles; direction about NNE. The country is the same, but the road
is more raviny: certain passes occur about three miles from Gojhan,
presenting a fine defile, and some smaller ones afterwards. Vegetation
continues the same. Artemisiae, Astragali, and Peganum, are most common;
observed a new Astragalus. The valley is much wider after passing
Gojhan; the southern boundary is not so distinct, owing to the haze:
there is not much cultivation, which appears to be confined to the slopes
under the hills. Mookhloor is situated under a fine limestone cliff; and
an excellent stream of water occurs here, and abundance of fine grass
along the humid banks: along this water villages are abundant, they are
all fortified. Trees are plentiful, indeed after Candahar and Arghandab,
this is the best looking place we have seen: the view is not distinct
however, owing to the haze above alluded to: beyond the water, lies a
vast and barren plain. Fish are abundant in the stream, and vegetation
luxuriant along its margins. This stream divides into two or three
branches, which are all soon choked up with sedges, etc., a cut carries
off the greater part of the water, the slope is to the south, or a little
to the west of south.
Typha angustifolia occurs in profusion, Mentha, Cochlearia, Epilobiae 2,
Calamus abundant, Cyperaceae in profusion, Ranuncul. aquatic, Alisma
ditto. The vegetation of the plain where we are encamped is chiefly
Artemisia.
_15th_.--Halted: and I here ascended the hills overhanging the heads of
Turnuk where many villages are visible along its branches, fifty may be
counted, but it is not known how many of these are in ruins, the villages
occur at little distances from each other; the valley is very broad.
These hills, which are of conglomerate limestone, except about the upper
one-third, which is simple limestone, have no peculiar vegetation. Ficus
is the only moderate sized shrub, Asphodelus, Lameoides, Salvia alia,
which must be a beautiful species, Labiatae caespitosa, Baehmerioides,
Pommereulla, and several grasses, Compositae, Linaria, Senecionoides
glaucescens of Quettah, Dianthoides frutex alius congener, Staticoides
alia, Composita Eryngifolia, Eryngium, Astragali 2, Umbelliferae 2-3,
Hibiscus vel Althaei, Rutae sp.; Frutex pistacioides, Sedoides rosaceus,
Onosma, Verbascum, Dipsacea, Cerasus pygmaeus, canus, Scrophularia
tertia, Compositae, Labiatae, and grasses, are all the most common
plants.
The novelties along the water are a pretty species of Astragalus, in turf
a Triglochin and Typha in flower, Potamogetons 3-4, and Ecratophyllum
occur: barley is now selling at sixteen seers, wheat at eight seers for a
rupee.
_16th_.--Reached Oba-kahreeze, the distance of which from the last
encampment being fourteen miles. The country is open, but very
uninteresting; the boundary hills are scarcely discernible owing to haze:
the road is good, and a few small hills occur here and there. Vegetation
is comparatively scanty; Astragalus novus, common; the chief plants,
however, is another Artemisia of much more medicated qualities than those
previously met with, that is, less fragrant, Peganum common. Water is
plentiful enough, but fodder is scarce, and scarcely any _Joussa_ occurs;
but a good deal of cultivation was passed, consisting of madder, barley,
and wheat. A few trees were observed here and there marking the sites of
villages. The country is much poorer than that at Mookhloor, but almost
the whole expanse of plain is capable of good cultivation: soil pebbly.
Fowls a good many are procurable. Apricots are also brought for sale,
but very inferior: a striking boundary hill to the north presents a
rugged, lofty aspect, not less in the peaks than 4,000 above the plain;
several ranges occur, but those to the south are low, rounded, and small;
rounded clumps of Astragali are seen.
_17th_.--Proceeded to Jumrat, 12 miles and 2 furlongs, our direction
lying to the north of the star Capella. The country continues to present
a similar aspect: valley expanded, road tolerable, several ravines and
beds of dry watercourses, with sandy bottoms; indeed as compared with
yesterday, the soil is much more sandy and less pebbly. Vegetation is
the same, no more dense aggregations of Artemisia fruticosa are seen, but
the plants consisting of scattered Artemisia of yesterday, barely
suffruticose, Peganum, Astragalus, Astragaloid Muscoideus, and Senecio
glaucescens. A good deal of cultivation occurs on both sides of the
slope towards the southern boundary, which is here lofty, presenting the
usual limestone characters. Many villages are seen, all fortified, and
about Jumrat there is the appearance of much population. Jerboas,
ravens, rock pigeons, and wild pigeons, are common; hares are uncommon.
Very few trees are to be seen, but there is abundance of good water and
grass along the margins of the cut. Sheep are also to be had, but they
are small, and goats for one rupee each, large sheep two rupees: _dhal_,
_atta_, barley procurable; and Herat rugs.
To-day the native troops were put on short rations of twelve _chatacs_;
servants, etc. on eight. Horsemen to the number of 100? came to meet the
Shah, all mounted on decent ponies, but quite incapable of coping with
our irregular horse. Barometer 23.305, thermometer 87 degrees, Wooll.
new thermometrical barometer 697.6, old 595.8.
From 11 P.M. to 12 P.M. heavy rain; very heavy for about twenty minutes,
with a threatening aspect in the horizon at 7 A.M. to south by east, from
which direction the rain came: thunder and lightning; latter very
frequent.
_18th_.--Entered the district of Karabagh, distance to our present place
of encampment from that we had left eight and a half miles. The road
decent, traversing several watercuts, one or two ravines, and a small
stream, indeed water becomes more abundant to-day than in almost any
other march: our direction lay the same as before, but as we approached
the low hills, separating us from Ghuznee plain, we proceeded more east
in order to turn them. The features of the country are the same,
together with the vegetation, the only novelty being a genuine Statice
and a Cruciferous plant, which I observed at Mookhloor, and a Composita,
Echinops spinis radiantibus continued. The medicated suffruticose
Artemisia: _Joussa_ in old cultivation, and Peganum are the most common
plants.
Grass abundant along the cuts and streamlets, mixed with a pretty new
Astragalus, and the Astragalus of Mookhloor, _Composita depressa_, etc.
The valley narrowing, we halted at the foot of low hills, which we are
yet to traverse; the ground about our camp stony and barren, producing
Astragalus, thorny Staticoides, Centaurea spinosa, Verbascum, and
Thapsus.
The soil of the plain good and deep, as instanced by ravines, and the
deep beds of streamlets. Cultivation is abundant, villages numerous,
and, as usual, all walled; their form generally square, with a bastion at
each corner, and often two at each face, in which there is a gate. The
people are very confident of their own security in these parts, crowding
to our camp with merchandise. The country continues bare of trees,
except about some of the villages; northern boundary hills lofty; a
curious snow-like appearance is occasionally produced from denudation of
land slips, like a long wall running along one of the ridges: southern
hills distant, presenting limestone characters.
The articles sold in camp yesterday, were _atta_ (wheat) eight seers,
barley sixteen _chenna_, sugar three to four seers. Lucerne abundant, at
one rupee four annas a bullock load, _soorais_, _kismiss_, three to four
seers, _zurd-aloo_ twelve seers, dried _toot_ or mulberry one and a
half seers for a rupee, but these are insipid, very sweet, but also very
dirty, _pistacio_ nuts one seer: crops not yet cut, but ripe.
_Kupra_, cloth of common quality, as well as a black kind called
_soosee_.
Barometer, mean of three observations (12 P.M., 1 P.M., 2 P.M.) 23.433,
thermometer 85 degrees 6'. Wooll. new therm. bar. mean of two
observations, 699.1, old, 597.5. Lichens abundant on black _limestone_?
rocks. On hills about camp, Labiata nova, and a curious tomentose plant
were the only novelties.
_19th_.--Proceeded to Argutto, distance nine miles, direction easterly,
the country continues unchanged until we ascended gradually the end of
the low ridge between us and Ghuznee. The slope was very gradual: the
road towards the foot generally sandy, and in some places very bouldery:
on surmounting the ridge, which was not 300 feet above the plain, we
descended a trifle, and encamped in an open space with hills to the
north; this place slopes to the south into the valley up which we have
come for some marches. The valley in this upper portion is not so
fertile as the lower parts we have seen lately, still there are a good
many forts, and some cultivation: one or two cuts were passed, and water
is abundant at our halting place in cuts, or _Kahrezes_, as well as in a
small torrent with a shallow bed. Several forts were seen on the north
side, situated in the small ravines of the hills, they are however,
mostly ruined. No change in the vegetation. Jerboas not uncommon. An
Accipitrine bird, the same as that obtained at Shair-i-Suffer.
Horsemen, about thirty, were seen on the hills; they descended thence and
skirted the base in number; when they were pursued by our cavalry, but
escaped through a ravine which Sturt says, leads into a fine plain with
many forts. The 4th brigade joined with the Shah's force. I observed to-
day a curious monstrosity of an Umbelliferous plant, in which the rays of
the umbellules are soldered together; forming an involucre round the
immersed central solitary female, the male flowers forming the extreme
teeth of the involucre.
Detached thermometer 83 degrees 3', attached ditto 83 degrees 3';
barometer 23.262, mean of three observations: old therm. bar. 597.2, new
ditto 696.9. Abundance of villages throughout the part of the valley
running east, and then north, and many trees.
[Ghuznee: p373.jpg]
_20th_.--Proceeded to Nanee, distance eight to ten miles, bearing north-
east; after descending slightly from the ground we encamped on, and
turning the east extremity of its slope, the road is good, sandy and
shingly, running close to low undulated hills. No change in vegetation.
Encamped on undulated shingly ground formed from low hills to the north,
about half a mile off: Ghuznee is thence visible, situated close under a
range of hills, the walls high, having many bastions, and one angle on
the south face. Abundance of villages and topes or groves about the
valley closing up with irregular barren mountains. Picquets were seen
about five miles from our camp, but no appearance of an army about
Ghuznee.
The valley up which we have come since leaving Mookhloor, runs opposite
this place, from nearly east to north, and apparently, terminates beyond
Ghuznee; it is highly capable, is well inhabited and much cultivated. So
are all the valleys that we have seen on surmounting the boundary ridges:
the villages occupy each indentation of the valley, as well as its
general level.
Barometer at 1 P.M. 23.336, thermometer 91 degrees: new thermometric bar.
697.1, old 597.2. Latitude mean of three observations 33 degrees 24' 26"
North.
_21st_.--Moved to Ghuznee, ten miles six furlongs. Cavalry in very
regular columns on the left; infantry to the right, and the artillery in
the centre; the park bringing up the rear: to the last moment we were not
aware whether the place would hold out or not. The Commander-in-Chief
and staff moved far in advance to reconnoitre until we entered a road
between some gardens, at the exit of which we were almost within range of
the town; here we halted; a fire was soon set up against us from gardens
to our left, and somewhat in advance, but all the shots fell far short.
On the arrival of the infantry, the light companies of the 16th, the 48th
were sent to clear the gardens, which they easily did, although from
being trenched vineyards, walled and _treed_, their defence might have
been very obstinate. In the mean time the guns on the south face of the
fortress opened on us, and our artillery forming line at about 800 yards
range, opened their fire of spherical case and round shot in return;
other guns in the fort then opened and a sharp fire was kept up on those
in the gardens by _jhinjals_ and _pigadas_, who when hard pressed took
refuge in an outwork or round tower. The fire from the south-east
extremity was soon silenced _pro tempore_, the shrapnel practice being
very effective. The howitzer battery on the extreme left of the
artillery line was too great a range, and with the exception of one gun,
all the shells fell short. In the _melee_, the Zuburjur 48-pounder, was
dismounted, and carried with it a considerable portion of the wall of the
citadel where it is built upon a scarp in the east face. After some
further firing, the troops were withdrawn almost without range, but
sheltered by gardens and broken ground. From 9 A.M. the engineers with
an escort reconnoitred the place, and having ascertained that the only
practicable point of attack _with our means_ was the Cabul gate, we
were moved off, and marched to the new ground in the evening. Owing to
the difficulty of crossing a river and several cuts which intercepted the
way, and formed the worst road for camels and guns I have yet seen, much
of the baggage was not up till twelve next (i.e. this) morning.
One European was killed, accompanying the escort. Graves severely, and
Von Homrig slightly wounded, a _golundauz_ lost his leg, and a few others
were wounded. Their gun practise in the fortress improved much towards
the end, and against the reconnoitring party, was said to be good.
_22nd_.--The ground we now occupy is the mouth of the valley, up which
the Cabul road runs: our camp stretches obliquely across this; the Shah's
camp taking a curve and resting by its left on the river. On our (i.e.
the sappers) right, is a range of hills, from the extremity of which the
town is commanded; between us and the range in question, the 4th brigade
is stationed, and on the other side, the remainder of the infantry. We
are it seems within reach of the long gun, which has been remounted, and
occasionally directs its energies against the Shah's camp. The night was
quiet, the troops completely knocked up by the fatigues of the day, the
distance we came (to the right) was certainly six miles, and that by
which the infantry moved to the left, was still more.
The gardens between us and the town are occupied by the enemy, but the
village of Zenrot on the ridge, is not. Large numbers of cavalry are
seen on the other boundary range of the valley, opposite our encampment,
certainly 2,000; this is probably the other son of Dost Mahommud, who
left the fort with the Gilzee cavalry on the night of our march to
Ghuznee, for the purpose of attacking our baggage; they were easily
driven from the ridge, which is now occupied by our horse.
_23rd_.--Ghuznee was taken this morning by a coup-de-main, the whole
affair was over in half an hour from the time the gate was blown open;
there was, however, a good deal of firing afterwards, and some of the
inhabitants even held out throughout the day, and caused almost as much
loss as that which occurred in the storm. The affair took place as
follows: the guns moved into position between 12.5 and 2.5 P.M., and
about 3 P.M. commenced firing at the defences over the gate: under cover
of this fire the bags of powder, to the amount of 800 lbs. were placed
against the gate by Captain Peat, the hose being fired by Lieut. Durand.
In the mean time the road to the gate was occupied by the storming party,
the advance of which was composed of the flank companies of all the
European Regiments. The head of the advance was once driven back by a
resolute party of Affghans, who fought desperately hand to hand, but a
jam taking place, the check was only momentary. After clearing the gate,
the enemy must have become paralysed, and both town and citadel were
gained with an unprecedentedly trifling loss. None of the engineers, or
of the party who placed the bags, were touched, although from the enemy
burning blue lights they must have been seen distinctly: two, of a few
Europeans who accompanied Capt. Peat were shot; one killed. During the
day a great number of prisoners were taken, among whom was Dost
Mahommud's son; a great number of horses also fell into our hands.
_24th_.--Ghuznee: by this morning at 9 o'clock every thing was quiet, and
the last holders-out have been taken; strict watch is kept at the gate to
prevent plunder, dead horses are now dragged out, and dead men buried:
the place looks desolate, but the inhabitants are beginning to return. It
appears to me a very strong, though very irregular place, the stronger
for being so: the streets are very narrow, and dirty enough, houses poor,
some said to be good inside, it is a place of considerable size, perhaps
one-third less than Candahar. It is surrounded by a wet ditch, of no
great width, the walls are tall and strong, weakest on the north-east
angle immediately under the citadel; parapets, etc. are in good repair.
The loop holes are however absurd, and even when large are carefully
screened. The ditch is crossed at the Cabul gate by a stone bridge. The
Zuburjur is a very large gun, but almost useless to Affghans, who are no
soldiers. Every side of the town might have been stoutly defended.
The view from the citadel is extensive and fine, the mountains to the
north and north-west extremely so, and seem crowded in the view, while
the river and its cultivation add novelty to an Affghan landscape; many
villages are visible in every direction, surrounded with gardens and
orchards.
There is a good deal of cultivation all round the town, which is situated
on a sloping mound, separated by the ditch from the ridge forming the
northern boundary of the valley, up which the Cabul road runs; there is a
small mosque on this ridge, and below it, within 400 yards of the
ramparts, a small village, from which the attack was best seen. The
gardens are as usual walled, and are all capable of irrigation, the plots
being covered with fine grass or clover. Apples, apricots, pears, and
plums much like the Orlean's plum, a sort of half greengage, bullace,
Elaeagnus, and mulberries, are the principal fruit trees; of these the
pear is the best, it is small but well flavoured; the others are
indifferent. There are many vineyards dug into shallow trenches: the
plum is allied to the egg-plum, but altogether there are four kinds.
The chief vegetation of the uncultivated ground is a small Salsola,
Salsola luteola, this is mixed with Peganum, Santalaceae, Senecionoides
glaucescens, Umbelliferoid bicornigera, Composita, having the decurrent
part of the leaves dislocated and hanging down. Centaurea spinescens,
Linaria, _Joussa_, and one or two Astragali.
The vegetation, with the exception of an Artemisia indicae similis, a
Malvacea, and an Orobanche growing on Cucumis sp., is precisely the same
as that met with from Mookhloor hither, Cichorium, Polygonum
graminifolium natans, and two others, Rumex, Mentha, Epilobium
micranthum, Dandelion, Plantago major, Panicum.
There are two kinds of willow trees; Thermopsis is not uncommon,
Centaurea magnispina and Zygophyllum of Candahar are very common,
Sisymbrium, Lophia, Hyoscyamus, Centaurea cyanea, Tauschia. Magpies,
Hoopoes, Pastor roseus. Corvus corax, etc., along the water-cuts.
Some fine Poplars occur at a village, or rather a Fuqeer's residence;
about one and a half mile to the south-west of the town on the road to
Candahar, and about it, one or two Carduaceae, one a fine one, to be
called C. zamufolia, Pomacea acerifolia, also in gardens: among the
cultivated plants are maize, fennel, aniseed? Solarium, Bangun! Madder,
the beautiful clover of Mookhloor, lucerne, melons, watermelons, cresses,
L. sativum, radishes, onions, beetroot.
There are no ruins indicating a very extensive old city. About our camp
are the remains of bunds and old mud walls; near us, and between us and
the city, are two minars, with square tall pedestals, of burnt brick,
about 100 feet high, and 600 paces apart: there is nothing striking about
them, although they bear evidences of greater architectural skill than
any thing I have seen in the country, excepting the interior of Ahmed
Shah's tomb. The base is angular, fluted, and equals the capital, which
is but little thicker towards its base. They are brick, and derive their
beauty from the diversity in the situation of the bricks. The one
nearest the city is the smaller, and appears perfect, it is likewise
provided with a staircase: the larger one is broken at the top of the
capital.
_26th_.--I went to see Mahmoud of Ghuznee's tomb, which is situated in a
largish and better than ordinarily built village, about two miles from
the Cabul gate, on the road to Cabul, at a portion of the valley densely
occupied with gardens. The situation is bad, and the building which
appears irregular, quite unworthy of notice; it is situated among the
crowded houses of the village, and to be found, must be enquired for.
At the entrance of the obscure court-yard which leads to it, there is a
fine rivulet that comes gushing from under some houses, shaded by fine
mulberry trees; in this court are some remains of Hindoo sculpture in
marble; the way there leads past an ordinary room under some narrow
cloisters to the right, then turning to the left one enters another
court, on the north side of which is the entrance to the tomb; there is
no architectural ornament at all about it, either inside or out. The
room is an ordinary one, occupied towards the centre by a common old
looking tomb of white marble, overhung by lettered tapestry, and
decorated with a tiger skin: over the entrance, hang three eggs of the
ostrich, for which the natives have the very appropriate name of camel
bird, and two shells, like the Hindoo conches, but smaller. The roof is
in bad order, and appears to have been carved. The doors appear old;
they are much carved, but the carvings are effaced; they are not
remarkable for size, beauty, or mass; and appear to be cut from some fir
wood, although the people say they are sandal wood. The tomb strikingly
confirms the idea that the Putans became improved through their
connection with Hindoostanees, rather than the reverse; the tomb is
unworthy of a great conqueror.
I then ascended the ridge, and descended along it to the picquets on the
flank of our camp. This ridge, like all the low ones from Mookhloor to
this place, is rounded, very shingly, and generally on the northern face,
is partly covered with rocks, apparently limestone. The vegetation
presents nothing unusual, with the exception of a very large Cnicus,
Cnicoideus zamiafolius, capitulis parvis, an Umbellifera, a Scutellaria,
Dipsacus; otherwise they are thinly scattered with two or three
Astragali, two or three Artemisiae, among which A. gossypifera is the
most common, Labiata fragrans of Karabagh, Senecio glaucescens,
Compositae, Eryngioides, Centaurea alia, magnispinae affinis, Santalacea,
Leucades, Onosma major, et alia, foliis angustis, Echinops prima,
Sedoides, Cerasus, Canus pygmaeus, Dianthoides alia.
The view from this ridge is beautiful, it shows that three valleys enter
the Karabagh one about Ghuznee, the largest to the eastward; then the
Cabul one, then that of the Ghuznee river. The slope of this valley from
the mountains to the river, presents a very undulated appearance. The
cultivation is confined to the immediate banks of the river, which is
thickly inhabited, and to most of the ravines of the mountains, shewing
that water is generally plentiful. The river is to be traced a long way
by means of the line of villages and orchards which follow its banks.
The mountains are very barren, much varied in the sculpture of their
outlines, and are by no means so rugged as those of limestone in the
Turnuk valley. The lofty one which presents the appearance of a wall
near its ridge, and of snow, alluded to during the march hither on the
18th ultimo, is still visible. Considerable as is the cultivation, it
bears a very small proportion to the great extent of waste, and probably
untillable land, untillable from the extreme thinness of the soil and its
superabundant stones. Cratoegus occurred near Mahmoud's tomb, also
Centaurea cyanea.
_29th_.--Halted: nothing new; botany very poor; poorer than ordinary.
_30th_.--Moved to Shusgao, distance thirteen and three-quarter miles,
direction still the same, or, to the north of the star Capella. The road
extends over undulating ground, is cut up by ravines, but easily
traversed, ascending and descending; then crossing a small valley, at the
north-east corner of which the ghat is visible: the ascent to the mouth
of this gorge equals apparently the height attained before descending
into the valley. The pass is narrow, the sides steep but not
precipitous; the hills are not very rugged, and they are generally thinly
clothed with scattered tufted plants; the pass gradually widens, and has
a ruin or remains of a small fort-like building as at the entrance. This
ruin, or fort, looks down into a poorly inhabited, poorly cultivated,
Khorassan valley: road good, with a gradual ascent for one and a half
mile from the exit of the pass, where we encamped, about five miles on
the Cabul side.
The Botany is rather interesting, the general features are the same as
those of the hills round Ghuznee; the most common plants Senecionoides
glaucus, Plectranthus of Mookhloor in profusion, a new densely tufted
Statice very common, Verbascum, Thapsioides, Linaria, Artemisia very
common, Cnici, two or three of large stature, Astragali, two or three,
Asphodelus luteus, Labiata of Mookhloor, Santalacea, Dipsacus, _Thymus_,
Lotoides, Staticoides major.
In the undulated ground before reaching the valley preceding the pass, a
fine tall Cnicus occurs, also Plectranthus; Peganum is very common.
About our halting place the same small Artemisia and Composita dislocata
occur in profusion; Cnicus zamiafolius, Dianthus aglaucine, _Astragalus_,
a peculiar prim-looking species. Leguminosae, Muscoides two or three,
very large Cnici, Plectranthus, Iris out of flower, Astragali alii, 2-3.
Cultivation consisting of mustard and very poor crops, of which wheat is
the principal: a few ordinary villages are seen with good and abundant
supplies of water; the country notwithstanding is inferior, as compared
with that about Ghuznee. The soil coarse and gravelly, or pebbly.
Thermometer 47 degrees at 5 A.M.
After descending from the gorge, the summit of which may be estimated at
400 to 500 feet, the ascent is considerable: barometer standing at 1.5
P.M. at 22.323; thermometer 86 degrees; so that the extreme ascent since
leaving Ghuznee has certainly been between 1,100 to 1,200 feet.
The inhabitants are coming into camp with articles for sale, as lucerne,
clover, coarse rugs, and sheep.
_31st_.--Proceeded to Huftasya, eight and a quarter miles, direction
about the same, continuing down a narrow valley with a well marked and
tolerable road, extending over undulating ground, having a slight descent
throughout: the centre of the valley is cultivated, villages extend up
the ravines of the northern side. We halted near several villages, with
a good deal of cultivation around, consisting of beans and mustard. But
few trees are seen about the villages, and there is no change in
vegetation: water abundant from covered _kahreezes_ or wells, which
generally flow into small tanks.
The slope of the southern boundary is undulated, that of the northern
though generally flat and uninteresting, yet near us becomes very bold
and rugged, but its ravines and passes are easily accessible.
Shusgao--The plants found here about the cultivation, are Achillaeoides,
Asteroides, Plantago major, Hyoscyamus, Tanacetoides, Artemisia,
Trifolium, Taraxacum, Mentha, Phalaris, Rumex, the small swardy Carex of
Chiltera, Astragalus, calycibus non-inflatis, tomentoso villoso, this
last with Composita dislocata is common on shingly plains.
On slopes of hills Leucades, Cerasus canus, pygmaeus rare, Dianthoides,
Plectranthus very common, Cnici 3 or 4, Labiata of Mookhloor,
Senecionoides glaucescens common, Artemisia, sp. very common, Staticoides
of Dhun-i-Shere, Anthylloides, Verbascum.
_Hyoscyamus_. The circumcision of the capsule of this genus is
apparently in connection with the peculiar induration of the calyx of the
fruit; its relations to the capsule is so obvious that its dehiscence is
the only one compatible with the free dissemination of the seeds, _the_
_calyx remaining entire_. _Hence_? the induration of the calyx
should be the most permanent if it is the cause, but to obviate all
doubts, both calyx, fructus induratus, and capsula circumscissa, should
enter into the generic character; the unilaterality of capsules, and
their invariable tendency to look downwards, or rather the inferior
unilaterality, may likewise reasonably be considered connected with the
same structure of calyx, as well as the expanded limb of the calyx.
The indurated calyx is the cause, because although circumscissa capsula
is by no means uncommon, and in others has no relation to the calyx, yet
in this genus it has such, and should have in every other similar case.
_August 1st_.--Hyderkhet, distance ten and a half miles down the same
valley; the road is bad and after crossing the undulating terminations of
the southern slope, very stony and bouldery; in several places it is
narrow and uneven. The country is well inhabited, and very well
cultivated, particularly towards the bed of the river, which is here and
there ornamented with trees. Numbers of villagers are seen on the road
as spectators. Beans very abundant, mustard less so, excellent crops of
wheat; the fields are well tilled, and very cleanly kept: this portion of
the valley, though small, is perhaps the best populated and cultivated
place we have yet seen: the descent throughout is gradual: the boundary
hills, at least lower ranges present a very barren character, covered
with angular slaty fragments. Some tobacco cultivation.
_2nd_.--Shekhabad, nine miles and six furlongs, direction north-east by
east. The road throughout is rather bad, particularly in places near the
Schneesh river, which has a very rapid current. We left this on its
turning abruptly through a narrow ravine to the south: towards this, the
valley narrows much; we then ascended a rising ground, and descended as
much or perhaps less until we reached the Logur, a river as large almost
as the Arghandab, this we crossed by a bridge composed of stout timbers,
laid on two piers composed of stones and bushes, and tied together by
beams: the cavalry and artillery forded below, and above the bridge.
Crossing the bed which is low and well cultivated, chiefly with rice, we
ascended perhaps 100 feet, and encamped on undulating shingly ground; we
then passed much cultivation on the road: villages are plentiful, and
often placed in very narrow gorges unusually picturesque for
Affghanistan; one scene was especially pretty, enclosed by the high
barren mountains of the southern boundary, in the distance a village or
two, and the Schneesh, with banks well wooded, and willows in the
foreground.
The aspect of the hills, except some of the distant ranges, is however
changed; quartz has become very common among the shingle, with reddish,
generally micaceous, slate: the mountains are rounded, and easy of
access: very poorly clothed with vegetation. The course of the Logur is
nearly north and south.
There are some villages about this place, with lucerne, clover and
bearded rice of small stature.
The elevation of the country is here about 100 feet below our camp, which
is about half a mile from the river. Barometer 182, 23.362; thermometer
95 degrees; latitude 34 degrees 5' 30".
_3rd_.--Halted: the Logur river discharges much water; the whole of the
tillable portions of adjacent banks are not under cultivation, the rocky
sides to the south composed of micaceous slate, are very precipitous;
these mountains were originally rounded, but are now formed into cliffs;
willows and poplars are abundant along the river. But the vegetation of
the cliffy sides scarcely presents any change, except in a Salvia, a
Ruta, a small withered Leguminosa; the other plants are Polygonacea
frutex uncommon, Senecionoides, Salvia Horminum common, Artemisia two:
the usual one very common, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoides, and luteus,
several Compositae, two or three Cnicoidei, a Pulicaria, etc. of the same
section, Cuscuta, Linaria angustifolia, Stipa, several withered grasses,
Dianthoides, Scrophularia, Allium, Cerasus canus, pygmaeus uncommon,
Sedoides, Boragineae, Boraginis facie common, Leucades, Astragali, three
or four, Onosmae 2, angustifolia and majus, Scutellaria, Equisetoides,
Ephedra.
Anthylloides, Plectranthus common, Peganum uncommon, Staticoides major,
Compositae dislocata common.
In the swardy and wet spots along river, the usual plants occur; the
novelty being a Hippuris out of flower, Plantago, Glaux, Chara, Alisma,
Tamarisk, Salix, Trifolium fragiferum, Thermopsis, Cyperacea, Triglochim,
Equisetum. The _Nuthatch_ found in the cliffs, cultivation occurs.
To-day news arrived of the flight of Dost Mahommud to Bamean, with 3,000
Affghan Horse. Captain Outram sent in pursuit. The Shah joined us,
attended by perhaps 2,000 Horse, and people are said to be flocking into
our camp from Cabul.
_4th_.--Proceeded to Killa-Sir-i-Mahommud, distance ten and a half miles,
direction north by east, the park of artillery, etc. remaining behind,
the road for the first half extending over undulating ground to the head
of the valley, then becoming level and good with some inferior
cultivation: the valley is dry and barren. We encamped on stony ground
forming a slight eminence under a beautiful peak, certainly 4,000 to
5,000 feet above the plain, and hence 12,000 to 13,000 feet above the
sea. The valley at the base of the hills is occupied by a few villages,
but generally speaking little population exists in these parts. No
change in vegetation; at the level part of the march the Chenopodiaceae
of Karabagh is very common.
The 2,000 Dooranees who joined the Shah yesterday dwindled down to 300 by
the evening, and the camp was fired into at night. There is some
cultivation about this, chiefly of mustard, carrots, millet and Panicum,
Setaria.
_5th_.--To Maidan, distance eight miles? direction at first as before,
but after crossing the river due north, we continued down the valley,
passing some villages and cultivation consisting of beans, etc.; water
being abundant about three miles from camp, forming a small brook, which
falls into the Cabul river at the end of the valley. Before reaching
this we crossed a low spur, and then descended into Maidan valley: which
presented a beautiful view; much cultivation, and trees abundant along
the Cabul river.
Crossing this which is a rapid current one foot deep, twenty yards wide,
running south, or in the contrary direction to that which is given in
Tassin's Map, we ascended an eminence on which a ruinous stone fort is
built, we crossed this eminence between the fort and main ridge and
descended into a valley again, keeping above the cultivation at the foot
of the east boundary range, for about a mile, when we halted. The ruins
of a stone bridge exist over the river, one arch remaining on the left
bank.
The valley is the prettiest we have seen, the hills to the west and north
being lofty and picturesque; one to the latter direction presenting an
appearance exactly like that of snow on its ridge, quite white, but not
changing even at noon, nor occupying such places, as it would do if it
were snow. The mountains, except those to the west, are not boldly
peaked, the valley is prettily diversified with wood, all of the usual
sombre cypress-like appearance, from the trees, especially poplars, being
clipped. Cultivation and water both plentiful: villages and small forts
numerous, with very barren mountains. This was the place where Dost
Mahommud was to have fought; he could not have selected a better, the
ridge entering the valley, and the passage of the river, as well as that
of the fort would have afforded good positions: a road however runs round
the base of the eminence on the river side. By swamping the valley, or
cutting a canal, and entrenching himself he might have caused great
difficulties. Apples are abundant here, rosy and sweet.
Cultivation of the valley consists of wheat, barley, Cicer, not _chunna_,
maize, rice, carrots, beans, peas.
The river side is well furnished with willows and poplars, Salix viminea
also occurs; the villages are generally square, with a bastion at each
corner, and loopholes. Cyprinus microsquamatus, {383} common.
_6th_.--Arghundee, distance eight miles, direction for the first fourth
of the way NE., then considerably to the eastward, when we soon left the
valley and commenced with an ascent over a low ridge by a vile stony road
over undulating ground. On reaching the ridge a similar descent took
place, where the road becomes less stony, but much intersected by
ravines. We encamped about three miles from the ridge, in a rather
barren narrow valley. Nothing of interest occurred on the road, except
Dost Mahommud's guns, which are the best I have seen in the country. The
hills to our north crowded closely together, the inner ranges are very
high, with the appearance of snow.
Hindoo-koosh is dimly seen in the distance to the eastward. In some
streams water birds, particularly the small kingfisher of India are seen.
The Hoopoe is common, Merops, Pastor, and ravens. New plants a Boragineae
floribus infundibuliformis, tubiformibus, loeta caeruleis, venosa roseis,
melons. Snow on the Hindoo-koosh: rain in the afternoon, and at night a
heavy thunderstorm to the north.
_7th_.--Kilah-i-Kajee, lies one mile to the eastward: distance of
to-day's march, nine miles? one continued but gradual descent over a bad,
frequently very stony road, not much water. Direction at first ENE.,
then on descending into the first valley, due east or even to the south
of east, we encamped in the centre of a well-cultivated valley; near
dense gardens, having good apples; apricots indifferent. Hindoo-koosh is
here more distinctly visible with several ranges interposed; the outline
is rugged, highest point presenting a fine conical irregular peak towards
the south-east.
_8th_.--Halted: encamped close to gardens and rich cultivation. The
fields are separated by rows of poplars, willows, and Elaeagnus; scenery
pretty from abundance of trees with rice fields interspersed among woods;
the umbrageous banks of the rocky river of Cabul, are quite of unusual
beauty for Afghanistan: extensive fields of cultivation lie in this
direction, as well as across the valley in the direction of Cabul,
consisting of rice in great quantities, mixed with much of a Panicum
stagninum, lucerne, carrots, peas, quantities of safflower, which appears
to me to be of a different species, wheat and barley both cut, the rice
is just in flower.
In orchards, hazel-nuts, apples, pears, etc. some of the fruit excellent,
particularly pears, but generally they are coarse; apples beautiful to
look at, but poor to the taste, excellent but too luscious plums, good
grapes, excellent and fine sized peaches, melons as good as those of
Candahar, water melons, cherries of very dark colour.
Some change is to be observed in the vegetation, see Catalogue, two or
three Labiata, an Ononis, an Aconite, Tussilago? etc. among the most
striking, Ammannia and Bergioides, remarkable as tropical forms, but it
is now hot enough for any plant: rice fields crowded with Cyperaceae and
Alisma.
Crataegus oxycantha, or one very like it. The poplar here grows like the
Lombardy one, either from cropping or crowding; its leaves (when young)
are much smaller! and at this stage it might easily be taken for another
species.
Heliotropium canus common. The large poplar when young, or even when
matured, has its younger branches with terminal leaves like the sycamore.
The pomaceae-foliis palmatis subtus niveis of Quettah and Candahar are
nothing but this poplar in its young state!! Nothing can exceed the
difference between the two, both in shape and tomentum.
_12th_.--Halted since 10th at Baber's tomb, situated at some fine
gardens, or rather groves very near the summer-house of Shah Zumaun, and
to the right of the entrance into the town. It is a delightful
residence, and for Afghanistan, a paradise. There are some tanks of
small size, around one of which our tents are pitched under the shade of
sycamores and fine poplars; the tank is fed by a fall from a cut above
its level, and which skirts the range of hills at an elevation of fifty
feet in some places from its base. The tomb of Baber is poor, as also is
the so-called splendid mosque of Shah Jehan, a small ordinary open
edifice of coarse white marble. In the gardens, one finds beautiful
sycamores, and several fine poplars both round the tank and in avenues.
Below them a Bauhinioid fruit was found, together with abundance of
hawthorn, roses, and jasmines.
The view from this spot is beautiful, as fine as most woodland scenery.
The view from Shah Zumaun's summer-house is also extensive, and not to be
exceeded as a cultivated woodland scene; it is variegated with green
swardy commons, presenting all sorts of cultivation; with water,
villages, abundance of trees, willows, poplars, hedgerows, and by the
grand but barren mountains surrounding it, the Pughman hills, which must
be at least 13,000 feet above the sea.
The entrance to Cabul on this side, is through a gorge flanked by hills;
these to the left are low, those to the right reaching 1,000 feet,
through which the Maidan river, here called the Cabul river, runs; it may
be 100 yards wide. The river is subdivided, and crossed by a ruined
stone bridge of many arches, one parapet of which (the outer) is
continuous with the wall before mentioned. The gorge is occupied by
cultivation of several kinds, having the city wall at its termination,
running irregularly across the valley. A village is situated between the
entrance of the gorge and the wall. There are no defences to the city
worth mentioning: one enters immediately into narrow dirty streets, with
here and there a fever-breeding stagnant sewer; while the streets are
narrow, the bazars are good, of good breadth, well covered in by flat
ornamented roofs: the shops are clean, and well laid out. Shoemakers and
leather-workers, and fruiterers, are the most common: there are
armourers, blacksmiths, drapers and bakers. Hindoos and Mussulmen
intermixed, form the population. There is great bustle and activity,
everywhere profusion of fine fruit, especially melons, grapes, and apples
are presented.
_13th_.--I ascended this morning the ridge above us, up which the wall
runs; the ascent is, after surmounting the summer-house of Shah Zumaun,
considerably steep, and very rugged. The highest position of the wall is
1,150 feet above the city. It is eight feet high, and six or seven
thick, composed of slabs of the micaceous slaty stone of the place,
cemented by mud, with a parapet of two feet, generally of _kucha_, or
mud, with loopholes, and bad embrasures. It is furnished with bastions,
but is now in a ruinous state. It is a work completely thrown away. To
the south, the wall bends eastward, and is continuous with the outworks
of the upper citadel; to the north it dips into the gorge, and re-ascends
the hills on the opposite side.
From the peak, (which is not the highest point of the ridge, there being
two higher to the south, on the nearest of which is a mound, and a small
pillar) a beautiful view is obtained of Cabul, its valley, and its
mountains, together with the far more beautiful valley in which the army
is encamped.
The town itself presents an irregular outline, and is, with the exception
of some gardens towards its northern side, some lucerne fields near its
centre, and one or two open spots of small size, densely crowded with the
usual terraced-roofed, _kucha_, or mud houses, which are so close, as to
show no streets whatever.
There is not a single conspicuous building in it, with the exception of
the lower Bala Hissar and a mosque of small size on the right bank of the
river, occupying an open space near a garden, which alone renders it
distinct.
The Bala Hissar occupies the eastern corner: its outworks are regular
enough. It is surrounded by the remains of a wet ditch; its works have
been lately improved. Excepting the part occupied by the Shah, etc. the
space is crowded by houses exactly like the town. The fort to its south
and commanding it completely, is the upper citadel, and is altogether out
of repair; this continues the defence formed by the wall. The walls of
the city themselves are not distinguishable, excepting those of the
nearest quarter, occupied by Kuzzilbashes. The river intersects the
town, it is crossed by two, three, or perhaps more small stone bridges,
and runs nearly due east, and may be traced almost to the foot of the
eastern boundary range. From near the mosque a fine straight road runs
NNE. or thereabouts, with avenues of trees of small size near the town.
Two other roads are visible on the east side; one is continuous with that
which runs along the north face of the lower citadel, it runs due east;
and the other slopes towards this, and meets it about two or three miles
from the city at the end of a low range of hills.
The valley is not so well cultivated as ours, (i.e. the one in which the
army is encamped) nor by any means so well wooded; it appears bare some
way from the city, but this may arise from the stubble of the prevailing
cultivation of wheat and barley. There is abundance of water, the only
distinct _Chummun_ is to the south of the citadel, it is now under water.
Some low isolated hills or ranges are interspersed in the valley; of
these the largest is that running nearly parallel to the central road;
the next is due north of the city, and midway between it and the salt-
water lake which stretches several miles along the north of the valley,
and which appears to be a large body of water.
The boundary hills are generally fine; to the east is a high scarped bold
range, running nearly due north and south, its terminations being plainly
visible; near its southern end commences the ridge that forms the oblique
south boundary of the valley, and which runs up towards the south into a
fine broadly conical peak, very conspicuous from Arghandab. To the north
are the fine Pughman mountains; these run east and west: they are of
great elevation, and of fine outline, presenting here and there
appearances of snow. To the west is the walled ridge, not exceeding
1,300 feet in its highest point above the general level; this is
interrupted by the Cabul river, and never reaches such elevations again;
before ending to the north, it sends off a spur to the east.
Beyond the eastern boundary, glimpses of the Hindoo-koosh are obtainable.
To the west, there are no very high hills visible, excepting the western
part of the Pughmans; those of our valley are not exceeding 2,000 feet in
height, and are low to the south, in which direction the Maidan river
flows into the valley. Beyond the highest point of the walled ridge, are
several crowded high mountains.
The vegetation of the western hills is not peculiar, Echinops, a tallish
Carduacea, Carduacea alia, Senecionoides, Astragali, Artemisiae 2,
Statice of Dhuni pass.
Leucades, Labiata of Karabagh, Gramineae, several small Compositae,
foliis dislocatis, Leguminosa, fructu echinatis, Santalacea, Asphodelus
luteus, Ruta angustifolia, Umbellifera, foliis maximis of Chiltera, a
very stout plant, with a very medicinal gum, a new Polanisioid, a
Centaureoid, and a fine Carduacea are to be found in it.
A Marmot, the size of a large rat, is also found here, the large
specimens are of a reddish tinge, the small ones of a blackish.
The bazars are crowded all day, and in the morning are obstructed from
asses loaded with wood. Most things are procurable; the cloths seen are
mostly the indifferent common kind of cloth related to the Seikh Puttoo;
camel hair _chogas_, posteens or coarse blankets; these last indicating
very cold winters: there are not many other things peculiar--long knives,
and the shoes and boots are among the most so, and wretched silk
handkerchiefs.
The most common grapes are the _kismiss_, a long coarse grape which
answers for packing, a round, very sweet, purple grape, with large seeds,
and small seedless ones intermixed, are all capable of being much
improved by thinning, and a huge, tough-skinned, coarse, purple grape, of
good flavour.
The best peaches have a green appearance, even when ripe; the ordinary
ones are coarse, and not well-flavoured; but the Affghans are quite
ignorant of the art of packing fruit, and hence most are bruised.
Two sorts of apples are common, both rosy; one very much so, but much
inferior to the other.
Pears principally of two kinds, both allied to the common pear in shape;
the large ones are very coarse, but well adapted for stewing.
_Aloocha_ excellent for jellies, as also the cherries: most kinds of
plums are now out of season.
The melons vary much in quality, the watermelons are generally better,
and vary less: the muskmelons I have here seen, are ruined by inattention
to the time of gathering; some are very fine, the pulp is never very deep
coloured; it is very rarely green; some of the Kundah sort are very good;
this and the _turbooj_ are both excessively common. The usual Cucurbita
is cultivated, as well as the other common cucumber, pumpkin, Luffa
foetida, and L. acutangula.
Cabbages common, beet root ditto, _bangun_ ditto, excellent spinage
(Spinaceae).
All sorts of spices procurable, but they are generally old: sugar very
good, is sold in flat candied cakes, one and a half inch thick; _koorool_
in small cakes resembling chunam.