_Journey with the Army of the Indus_. _From Loodianah_
_to Candahar through the Bolan Pass_.
I reached Loodianah on the 10th December 1838, after a dawk journey of
fourteen and a half days. After passing the Rajemahal Hills, the country
presents an uniform aspect, but becoming more sandy as one proceeds to
the northward. The hills alluded to, form a low range, the only one of
any height being that called Pursunath. They are well wooded, the under-
vegetation being grassy. Undulating ground bare of trees, but provided
with shrubs, is passed before coming on the wooded tracts, the vegetation
of these present much similarity with that of even 31 degrees N. The
_Dhak_, Pommereulla, Zizzyphus, occurring. The _Mahooa_ occurs in
abundance on the hills, but does not reach much beyond Cawnpore. The
country from the hills upwards, is almost entirely cultivated; very few
trees occurring, and those that do, are almost entirely mango. The
Borassus does not extend in abundance much beyond Benares, but the
_Khujoor_ is found everywhere in sandy soil.
Loodianah is situated about five miles south of the Sutledge, in the
midst of a sandy country, very bare of trees. The fort and Capt. Wade's
house are situated on a rising ground, at the base of which runs a
nullah, a tributary of the Sutledge. There is much cultivation about the
place, chiefly of grain, barley and wheat, bajerow, cotton, the latter
bad, but there is much land uncultivated. The surface is often flat and
somewhat broken; in such places there is much of a low prickly _Bheir_,
much used for making fences. This and _Dhak_ jungle, which occurs in
strips, form two marked features, the _Dhak_ occurs in patches. The
grasses, which occasionally form patches, are Andropogoneous;
Anathericum, Pommereulla, and Eleusine occur.
Sugar-cane occurs; it is cultivated in thick masses, it is poor, and
always fenced with the _Bheir_.
The most common trees are the mango, Parkinsonia, _Babool_, Acacia altera
babooloides, a Leguminous Mimosoid tree, Tamarisk, a middling sized tree
and very pretty, Ficus.
The hedges about the cantonments, etc. are formed by prickly pear; much
Ricinus occurs in waste places, and it appears to me to be different from
that to the south.
The most varied vegetation occurs along the nullah, but consists entirely
of aquatic or sub-aquatic plants; among these the most common are two or
three Scirpi, particularly a large rush-like one, a large Sparganium, a
very narrow leaved Typha, Hydrocharis! a pointed leaved Villarsia,
Potomogetons three or four, one only natant; Chara, Naias, Ceratophyllum,
Ulva, Valisneria, Marsilea, Herpestes, Jussieua repens, Fumaria common in
fields.
The town is a large bustling place: the houses low and regular, and of a
somewhat picturesque style, built of brick, the streets are wide and
regular, having been laid out by our officers. There is a good deal of
trade, and the place is filled with Cashmereans, who may be seen working
their peculiar shawls, and producing very beautiful dyes.
_January 22nd and 23rd_.--Violent south-east winds during the day;
abating at night.
_February 4th_.--Arrived at Hurreekee, having halted on the previous
day at Mokhoo, a small village, with the usual style of mud fort. The
marches were as follows: from Loodianah to Ghosepoora is eight miles; to
Boondree, eight miles; Tiraia, ten miles; to Durrumkote, ten miles; to
Futtygurh, ten miles; to Hurreekee, ten miles. Thus Hurreekee is at
least eighteen miles from Durrumkote, although we had been told it was
only five. The country near Loodianah, and, perhaps as far as
Durrumkote, is occasionally very sandy, but beyond that it is easily
traversed by hackeries. Being much less cultivated and overrun with
grasses, among which Andropogons are the most numerous and conspicuous,
these grasses are either coarse and stout or wiry and fine, should afford
excellent cover for game, which however, does not seem to be very
abundant. Very few trees are visible in any direction, and although
neither very much cultivation nor many villages are visible, it would
appear from charts that the country is very populous. The most
interesting plant was a species of Fagonia.
Durrumkote is the largest of the villages we passed, and has a
respectable looking mud and brick fort. Inside the village is filthy;
the houses wretchedly small, and the streets very narrow. It is much the
same sort of village as other Seikh ones. In the bazars cocoanuts were
noticed. All the Seikhs eat opium, and very often in a particular way by
infusing the poppy-heads, from which the seeds have been extracted by a
hole in the side; great numbers of these are found in the bazars.
Hurreekee is on Runjeet's side. I crossed the Sutledge, which is between
400 to 500 yards broad with a sufficiently rapid stream, by a bridge of
boats built by the Seikhs, under the superintendence of Mr. Roobalee. It
contained 65 boats, placed alternately up and down the river; the boats
were moored to posts: over them were placed, both lengthwise and across,
timbers, then grass, then soil; many elephants passed over, until it gave
in, but was quickly repaired, and since many more hundreds of camels,
horses, and thousands of people have passed. The right bank is thirty
feet high, the left low and sandy. The country where uncultivated, is
clothed with grasses, and the only trees visible are perhaps the Pipul;
the _Jhow_ occurs but not the Parhass; a few Bukeens are visible,
Ricinus, Salvadora, which is occasionally a climber, especially at
Tiraia. The river rose suddenly on the night of the 6th and carried away
the bridge. The Himalayas had been seen very distinctly throughout the
day, so that the rain must have been local: the height of the rise was
three feet.
We left Hurreekee on the 8th at 10 A.M., the river up to this time (9th)
presents the same monotonous appearance--sandy banks clothed with
grasses, intermixed with _Jhow_ here and there, and occasionally
AEschynomene, and Typha. Very few villages have been passed, nor does
the rare occurrence of topes indicate that there are many near it. The
channel has been throughout much subdivided, and flats are of frequent
occurrence. Yesterday we passed two busy ferries, at which two or three
boats were unceasingly employed, and there was an obvious demand for
more. Black partridges were heard frequently, black-bellied tern,
herons, cormorants, etc. The stream averages three miles an hour.
Parkinsonia was seen near Hurreekee. Reached Ferozepore at 12.5 on the
9th; it is a very busy ghat, more so than that of Hurreekee: two large
godowns were passed on the Company's side. The river is wider by 100
yards than at Hurreekee.
_10th_.--Reached Mamdot at 9.5 A.M. The fort appears of good size, with
high walls: it is about half a mile from the river. The country
continues the same. Some wheat cultivation, in which Fumaria, Anagallis,
Medicago are abundant; Calotropis Hamiltonii common; some grapes; _doob_
grass wherever there is or has been cultivation. The only trees I see
are Babooloid, but not the true _Babool_, which has very odorous flowers,
and is always an arbuscula, a shrubby _Bheir_, spina una erecta, altera
recurvo also occurs; among the fields, Lathyrus, Aphaca, and a Compositae
which has the leaves of a thistle, are common.
Halted at Buggeekee, which is, I imagine, the Pajarkee of Tassin's Map.
_11th_.--Continued passing down, breakfasting at Attaree: few signs of
villages, but a good deal of cultivation. Persian wheels not
unfrequently employed in raising water from the river: a short channel
having first been cut in the bank, and the banks, when loose, propped up.
Wheat, radishes, etc. Grasses appear to be much less common, while the
_Jhow_ is increasing much. The river is much subdivided, and the actual
banks are scarcely discernible owing to the want of trees. The soil and
current remain the same: no impediments have been met with by our boats,
nor have I yet observed any to tracking, the grass jungle being easily
overcome, and very unlike that of the Brahmapootra, and the _Jhow_ not
reaching that height necessary to make it troublesome. The Nawab of
Mamdot visited the Envoy today, accompanied by a small party of horsemen.
Only two alligators have been seen thus far: no game even to be heard,
and but few living creatures visible.
_12th_.--The river becomes even less interesting than before; the channel
is occasionally much narrowed by sands, over one of which we found
yesterday evening some difficulty in passing; it is much more spread out
and subdivided, and from this circumstance, will occasion difficulty in
tracking up. The banks are low and generally within reach of inundation:
scarcely a village is to be seen; and _Jhow_ is the most uniform feature.
Yesterday evening saltpetre was visible in abundance on some of the
higher banks, and on these _Phulahi_, _Jhow_, a Composita, and Salsola?
or Chenopodium were observed. Since the 10th, the few boats seen are of
different structure from those to which we had been accustomed; they are
flat, less wide, and much better fastened together, elevated at both
ends; they are propelled as well as guided by the rudder, which is
curved, so as to bring it within reach of the helmsman, who is on a level
with the bottom of the boat. Very little cultivation: Tassin's Map of
but little use, as few of the names are recognised by the boatmen or
villagers.
Paukputtea was passed to-day; it is the shrine of a _fakeer_, and one in
great repute, as passing through a particular gate is supposed to
authorize one to claim admittance into Paradise. The Moulavee
consequently has proceeded there in full faith and extravagant joy: with
natives of the east such absurdities are to the full as much believed by
the educated as by the uneducated; indeed the former are much the more
bigoted of the two. The _fakeer_ alluded to, not only lived for years on
a block of wood carved into the likeness of a loaf, but subsequently
suspended himself for several years in a well, without even the wooden
loaf. He is then said to have disappeared, and is no doubt now enjoying
all the pleasures of a Mohammedan paradise. We were detained by strong
winds at a small village opposite Paukputtea, which is situated on rather
high ground, as far as could be judged from the distance.
_13th_.--The cultivation round this village consists of wheat, radishes,
a sort of mustard cultivated for its oily seeds, and the Mehta of
Hindoostan. Among the fields I picked up a Melilotus, a Melilotoid, and
a genuine Medicago, which is also found at Loodianah, both these last are
wild, and their occurrence is as curious as it is interesting; the latter
being a decidedly boreal form. In connection with these annuals I have
to observe, that most flower about January or February, at which time the
mornings and nights are the coldest: also observed Lathyrus cultivated, a
Chenopodium was also found, Calotropis, a large Saccharoid, Amaranthaceae,
were the most common plants, Gnaphalium, Lippia; _Purwas_, occurs
scantily.
_14th_.--Detained till 12 P.M. by bad weather. Sissoo not uncommon but
small, _Babool_, the true sweet scented sort. The Colocynth seen in
fruit much like an apple, not ribbed; it has the usual structure of the
order, viz. 3-carpellary with revolute placentae, so much so, that they
are placed near the circumference; seeds very numerous, surrounded with
pulp, not arillate: no separation taking place; oval, brown, smooth. In
fields here, a wild strong smelling Umbellifera occurs, called _Dhunnea_,
used as a potherb, and esteemed very fragrant by the natives. Besides
the absence of an arillus, there is another anomaly about the above
Colycynth, which is, that between each placenta a broad partition
projects from the wall of the fruit, usually provided with 3-septa, so as
to be divided into two chambers, these contain seeds, the funiculi
passing completely through them; seeds are also contained between the
outermost septa and the placentae themselves.
Passed two or three villages. The Persian wheels continue in vogue;
their site is always on a sufficiently high and tenacious bank. I
observed some wells, communicating with the river by an archway in the
bank. Most of the cattle are blinded by the conical blinkers or hoods
over the eyes.
_15th_.--Halted at a village partly washed away, surrounded by a good
deal of wheat and radish cultivation. The mango tree and Moringa also
occur here with the larger _Babool_, which invariably has long white
thorns. The small Sissoo still occurs. Snake bird seen, black crowned
tern.
The river remains most uninteresting; the banks are low and covered
chiefly with _Jhow_. In many places recent shells are very abundant, but
do not appear to be composed of more than three species. Reseda,
Oligandra in fields.
_16th_.--No change in the country. Heavy fog yesterday morning; to-day
strongish north-east winds. Grass and _Jhow_ about equal.
_17th_.--Cloudy, drizzling, raw weather; river more sluggish; more
villages and more cultivation: Phascum, and Gymnostomum common on
tenacious sand banks.
_18th_.--Weather unsettled; windy and rainy. _Jhow_ and grass jungle
continue, Tamarisk, _Furas_ fine specimens, Fumaria continues in fields,
Capparis aphylla, which has something of a Cactoid habit, and whose
branches abound with stomata, Reseda.
_19th_.--Weather finer but still cloudy, north-east wind still prevalent,
and impeding our progress in some of the reaches very much. Salvadora,
Capparis aphylla, _Phulahi_, _Bheir_, large _Babool_, _Furas_, Ranunculus
sceleratus: _Jhow_ and grass jungle are the prevailing features. Current
much the same, only occasionally sluggish. Pelicans, black-headed
adjutants, (Ardea capita,) wild geese, ducks very numerous in the jheels
formed by alteration in the course of the river; the country is more
cultivated, but as dreary looking as imaginable. Phoenix becoming more
frequent and finer, P. acaulis? likewise occurs occasionally, rather
young _Khujoors_. We passed Khyrpore about 3 P.M., it seems a straggling
place, stretching along the bank of the Sutledge; there are a great many
_Khujoor_ trees about it, and indeed about all the villages near it. A
little below this large tract, the banks were covered with a thick
_Sofaida_ shrubby jungle, which looked at a distance like dwarf Sissoo.
The country is much improved, and there is a great deal of cultivation,
especially on the left bank.
_20th_.--Continued--the river is very winding, and its banks present the
same features: the immediate ones being covered with short _Jhow_ or
grass, or both intermixed, the extreme ones well wooded, and well
peopled. _Khujoor_ very common. Yesterday near Khanpore, caught a
glimpse of the descent, and to-day again the ground appears uneven, and
almost entirely barren. It must be within a mile of the Sutledge. The
left bank continues well cultivated. In some of the fields I noticed
Medicago vera, Anagallis, Fumaria, Chenopodium cnicoideus, Prenanthoid,
the _Furas_, larger _Babool_, and Calotropis Hamiltonii continue.
Radishes very common, as also _Teera Meera_.
_21st_.--Halted about 8 coss from Bahawulpore. The Khan's son, a boy of
8 years, came to see Mr. Macnaghten, and saluted him with "good night,"
he was attended by about twelve indifferent pony _suwars_, or horsemen.
The river is very tortuous, both banks a good deal cultivated; there
appear to be a good many canals, which have high banks owing to the
excavated soil being piled up: they are 8 or 10 feet deep, and about 20
feet wide, at this season they are nearly dry, becoming filled during the
rains. The same plants continue--_Furas_, _Jhow_, Chenopodia 2, Reseda,
Linaria, Malva, Boraginea, Lactucoidea. The wheat throughout these
countries is sown broadcast. Irrigation is effected by means of small
ditches, and squares formed in the fields--each partition being banked
in, so as to prevent communication; when one is filled, the water is
allowed to pass off into its neighbour, and so on. Irrigation is
entirely effected by Persian wheels; the cattle are hoodwinked in order
to keep them quiet: besides from not seeing, they are led to imagine that
the driver is always at his post, which is immediately behind the oxen
and on the curved flat timber which puts the whole apparatus in motion.
Saw a man cross the river by means of a _mushuk_ or inflated skin. The
very common bushy plant with thorns and ligulate leaves which commences
to appear about Hazaribagh and continues in abundance throughout the
sandy north-west, is, judging from its fruit, which is a moniliform
legume--a Papilionacea; the fruit are borne by the short spine-terminated
branches: the stalk of the pod is surrounded for the most part by a
cupuliform membranous calyx. I have only seen however withered
specimens. Reached Bahawul ghat at 1 P.M. The Khan visited Mr.
Macnaghten in the afternoon, his visit was preceded by one from his
Hindoo minister, and another man, Imaam Shah, who is a very fat ruffianly-
looking fellow. The Khan was attended by numerous _suwarries_; he is a
portly looking, middle-aged man.
_22nd_.--We returned the visit to-day, the Khan having provided us with
one horse and two bullock _rhuts_: we traversed the sandy bank of the
river for about a mile before we reached the town, the suburbs of which
are extensive, but very straggling, and thinly peopled. The inner town
seemed to be of some extent, the streets narrow, the houses very poor,
and almost entirely of mud; there were a number of shops, and the streets
were lined with men and a few old women. There is very little
distinction in appearance between the Khan's residence and any other
portion of the town, and I did not see a defence of any kind. The Khan
received us on some irregular terraces; near his house, the street
leading to the private entrance was lined with his troops, as well as
that leading to the terrace, and this was surrounded with his adherents,
variously and well-dressed. The troops, for such appeared, were decent,
and those forming one side were dressed in white, in imitation of our
Sepoys, and the other side were in red and blue, _more proprio_ I
imagine: they were armed with muskets; the red ones for the most part
having muskets of native workmanship. A royal salute was fired when the
meeting took place, which was on the terrace, and as we proceeded up the
street, a band made a rude and noisy attempt at 'God save the King.'
Having had a private consultation, Mr. Macnaghten withdrew with similar
honours, presenting arms, etc. The presents were a handsome native
rifle, with a flint lock, and the fabrics of the city, some of which
called Kharse, were very creditable.
There are a good many trees about the place, indeed these form the chief
mark when seen from the ghat: the principal are mangoes, _Khujoors_,
Moringas, oranges. The natives are rather a fine race, but dirty: some
of the women wore the _Patani_ veils, or hoods, with network over the
eyes.
Continued down the river; though much delayed by strong south-east winds.
The vegetation, etc. continue the same, Potentilla sp. in flower, Phascum
very common.
_23rd_.--Nothing new has occurred: the current is stronger than above
Bahawulpore: the channel continues very winding, and sandbanks very
frequent. _Furas_, Salvadora, _Phulahi_ very common. The boats
accidentally separated, and we went without dinner in consequence: came
into the Pungnud. The mouths of the Chenab seem to be two, both
apparently of no great size, yet the Pungnud is a noble river, and
although much subdivided by sand banks, is a striking stream, the waters
are very muddy, and when agitated by a strong wind become almost reddish.
The jungle continues much the same: the Sissoid jungle again occurred to-
day, the natives call it _Sofaida_; it has a very curious habit, and is
gemmiferous, the gemmae abounding in gum. Quail, black-grey partridge,
hares, continue; a goat-sucker (Caprimulgus,) was seen.
_24th_.--The boats joined early this morning: we were delayed the whole
day by strong north-east winds; the whole country was obscured by the
dust.
_26th_.--The wind abated towards evening, and occurred again in gusts
during the night. This morning we came in sight of the southerly portion
of the Soliman range, by which name however, these mountains do not
appear to be known hereabouts; their distance must be forty miles at
least, yet they appear to be of considerable height: the range runs north
and south nearly. Wheat is here sown in rows. _Khujoor_, large
_Babool_, Fagonia, continue, _Jhow_ very common. Towards evening we came
to a subdivision of the stream following the smaller one in which the
current was very strong; in some places, apparently six knots an hour. We
came to for the evening at a village on the limits of the Bahawul
territory.
_27th_.--We came on the Indus early in the morning and stopped opposite
Mittunkote until 2 P.M., awaiting the arrival of Mr. Mackeson. The
mouths of the Attock river are scarcely more striking than those of the
Chenab; neither is the combined river immediately opposite Mittunkote of
any great size: certainly the stream we followed was not more than 800 or
900 yards wide, the extreme banks are at a considerable distance; and
half a mile below Mittunkote the surface of the water must be one and a
half to two miles in breadth; the river is much subdivided by banks, and
shallows are frequent, yet some of the reaches are of great extent.
The banks are low and rather bluff, the vegetation continues the same,
but _Jhow_ is far the most common plant. _Bheir_, _Babool_, and the
_Seerkee_ Saccharum continue; the cultivation is the same; Calotropis
Hamiltonii. Mittunkote appears, from a distance of two coss, a place of
some size, with a somewhat conspicuous dome. Immediately behind it are
the Soliman Hills, of no great altitude; and, except at the bases, which
are covered with black patches of forest, they appear uniformly brown,
otherwise there is nothing to vary the monotony of the scene, scarcely
any trees being visible. On stopping for breakfast, a general scene of
embracing among the dhandies or boatmen and their friends occurred; women
were also embraced in the usual way, but with apparently less tenderness
or warmth than the men. The boats tracking up, have masts, but the goon
or rope is seized with both hands, a plan far less advantageous than that
adopted on the Ganges and Bramahpootra, where the principal tracking is
exercised by a bamboo placed over the shoulder, farthest from the goon.
_28th_.--No change worth noticing. The current continues rapid. The
hills visible, running parallel to the river, and ending very gradually.
Typha is very common, and in some places Arundo.
_29th_.--We remain in sight of, and generally continuing in the same
direction as the hills, which run out very gradually indeed. Scarcely a
tree is to be seen, and very few villages. The country continues to have
some vegetation. The _Sofaida_ is now found in flower, it is the _Ban_
of the natives of these parts; the former name indicates in Persian, a
tree, said to be wild Poplar, with which this has an obvious affinity.
Saccharum _Seerkee_ very common, growing in tufts and covering extensive
tracts. Scarcely any cultivation is to be seen along the river, and
altogether a very small proportion is rendered available. River very
much subdivided: towards evening the sky is obscured to leeward by the
smoke arising from burning jungle. Waterfowl are very common along the
Indus; especially wild geese, which frequent open streams, whereas ducks,
etc. haunt places which only communicate with the main streams during
floods: myriads of _Bogulas_, (the general name for herons,) were seen
yesterday in a compact body. The Soliman mountains are by no means
rugged, and this only in one or two places, where they become peaked. In
Mr. Elphinstone's account of a Journey to Cabul, the limestone said to be
found in the desert contains shells; it would be most interesting to
compare this with the limestone of Churra more especially. Mr. E. also
mentions a wild rue as forming part of the very scanty vegetation of the
desert; the chief plants being _Kureel_, which is a Capparis; Phoke ----
and _Bheir_. Mr. E. also says that the material of which the tope of
Manikyalah is built, resembles petrified vegetable matter, an observation
to be kept in view. The mottled kingfisher occurs throughout, but is
commoner in southern latitudes of India.
Alligators abounded to-day, and it was curious to see them basking in the
sun with flocks of herons so close, that at a little distance they
appeared to be perching on the backs of the alligators, or rather
crocodiles. Again saw a man swim the Indus by means of a _mushuk_ or
inflated skin: he swam very rapidly, and with great ease; half his body
nearly being out of the water; he reclined on the skin and kept the
aperture by which it is inflated in his mouth, carrying his clothes on
his head. Passed Chuck about 4.5 P.M. The country appears populous
hereabouts.
_30th_.--We have seen a good many boats today employed in carrying grain
to the camp; the smaller ones are not unlike Bengal boats, having a high
stern; all on the Indus however have square bows and flat bottoms.
The _Jhow_ has increased in size in some places as has _Sofaida_, which
is occasionally a moderate tree, and it is now more advanced in
flowering: the temperature having visibly increased. The river puts on
the same features and is much subdivided; the channels by which we have
come, are not above 400 to 500 yards in breadth, yet there is often seen
to be a waste of low sand banks stretching to a great extent, and the
extreme banks are very remote, so as generally not to be visible.
_31st_.--Arrived at Uzeeypore about 9 A.M. Here we found horses and
camels for our conveyance to Shikarpore. Uzeeypore appears to be a well
frequented passage of the river, although we did not see any ferry boats.
Bukkur is visible from it, apparently occupying a hill almost to the
extreme right of a low range running south-west; it is seven or eight
coss distant. We left for Shikarpore about 2.5 P.M. and reached about 7
P.M.: the distance is said to be twenty-four miles; the road is generally
very sandy, although the sand is not very deep; the substratum being
solid. We passed some cultivation and a few villages, at one of which
(Khye) there is a neat sort of fortification; here we changed horses. The
jungle throughout consisted of Furas, Tamarisk, Salvadora, _Phulahi_
parva, the prickly Leguminosa, with the habit of Fagonia, Calotropis
Hamiltonii, Saccharum.
Shikarpore is not visible until one reaches the clearing around the town;
in the twilight it appears to be a very large place.
_February 2nd_.--We do not proceed to Larkhanu, as daily news from
Hyderabad is expected. I see nothing likely to interest me about this
place; there is absolutely not a flower to be got any where. The jungles
consist of _Jhow_, small _Furas_, _Rairoo_, a small arbusculoid Mimosa,
_Kureel_, and Ukko, Calotropis Hamiltonii; _Bheirs_ shrubby; one of the
most abundant plants is the _Joussa_ or prickly Leguminosa, with the
habit of Fagonia; some of the saline loving Compositae, No. 51, frutex 2-
3 pedalis, foliis carnosis lanceolato-spathulatis, sessilibus. Corymbis
et Cymi axillaribus et terminalibus pauci capitat. Floscules
inconspicuis, also occurs. Near the Shah's tents there is a grove of
_Phulahi_, all more or less demolished, and a good many _Khujoors_. Hares
and grey partridges appear common. The changes of temperature are very
great; in the mornings and evenings it is cold; in the afternoon the
thermometer reaches as high as 82 degrees.
_9th_.--Shikarpore is getting hotter every day: thermometer ranges from
40 degrees to 85 degrees.
_15th_.--The heat continued to increase until the 12th; the range of
thermometer being from 50 degrees to 95 degrees; the evenings gradually
became hotter, and the night although cool, had the peculiar thrilling
coolness of tropical nights.
On the 12th, the barometer commenced falling, and has since continued to
do so. The visible signs of rain have been confined to cloudy mornings;
the fall of the mercury is perhaps connected with the occasional strong
northerly winds, which at times, as last night, blow nearly half gales.
The range of thermometer is now from 55 degrees to 85 degrees. The
change was sudden on the 9th or 10th; the nights were cold, thermometer
at 5 A.M. 34 degrees 36'; and the days were only moderately warm. The
weather now is pleasant. Shikarpore is disagreeable _inter alia_ from
its dust, every thing becoming covered with it.
The suburbs of the city are well wooded, and all such portions are well
provided with gardens. The _Khujoor_ is the most common tree, the
Moringa, mango, _Jamun_, _Bheir_, _Neem_, Cassia fistula, Sissoo,
_Peepul_, _Furas_, _Phulahi_, another Mimosa and Agati, occur; oranges in
gardens, and a Pomaceous tree from Cashmere, which appears to thrive very
well. The cultivation consists chiefly of wheat, _Mahta_, mustard,
radishes, _Soonf_, coriander, beet, _Bagree_.
In these fields Phascum, Plantago, Ispaghula, Singee, Chenopodiaceae 1-2,
Salsola lanata, and Boehmeria, may be found; Composita salinaria, stocks
and wall-flowers in the gardens.
The vegetation elsewhere is very scanty; consisting of _Jhow_, _Bheir_,
_Furas_, _Ukko_, _Joussa_, Andropogon _Seerkee_, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, a
low bush called ----, and a Lycium? Boehmeria albida.
The town is miserably defended: the streets are very irregular and very
narrow: the houses all of mud, of the usual Scindian form, and completely
irregular. The bazaars or arcades, are mere ordinary streets, covered in
with timbers, over which tattered mats are placed: in these are situated
the Hindoo shops, and in some places darkness is completely visible.
These Hindoos have a peculiar elongated Jewish aspect, and are reported
to be very wealthy. Grain and cloth are the principal articles in which
they deal, and they say the streets are covered in order that the
purchaser may buy with his eyes half shut. The city is a large rambling
place, and each house deposits its own filth before it. The inhabitants,
especially the Hindoo portion, have a peculiar complexion, and by no
means a healthy one. No one seems to have deserted the town on account
of our approach, neither has fear hitherto prevented them from bringing
their merchandise into camp.
The weather has continued cool: yesterday we had a good deal of rain; to-
day it is very cloudy. The range of the thermometers from 46 degrees and
48 degrees to 82 degrees outside.
Artificers are not uncommon, as carpenters and blacksmiths, but their
tools are miserable: and there is no such thing as a large saw to be
seen. Wages are high, and from the slowness with which they work, it is
ruinous to employ them.
Left Shikarpore on the 21st and marched to Jargon, 13.5 miles, one of the
usual fortified villages of _kucha_ or unburnt brick. Houses surrounded
also with _Jhow_ fences. The jungle and country precisely the same as
that round Shikarpore, road at first bad, but subsequently good enough:
water is to be had very good: at no great depth.
_22nd_.--To Janidaira, 11.5 miles: road excellent throughout. Country
less covered with jungle: features mostly the same: a curious looking
plant occurred plentifully, but to a limited extent near Jargon and
subsequently, as the country became more sandy, we had abundance of
Salicornia, of which camels are excessively fond, otherwise _Jhow_,
_Furas_, very common, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Ukko_ throughout; near Jargon,
Elrua very common, Chenopodium cymbifolium throughout.
The soil at first is very fine, finely pulverized, brownish as we
proceeded onwards, becoming more and more sandy. Hills of some height,
apparently very distant, are seen ahead due north, and to the west. We
passed one village to the left, two canals of small size, and some
_Bagree_ cultivation. A small ridge with a hillock occurred after
passing the village, otherwise all was flat. And about this the jungle
was thin, entirely of patches _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, and _Furas_, Peepul.
We had a violent north wind yesterday evening with some rain.
_23rd_.--To Rogan, distance 11 to 12 miles: country generally flat,
presenting here and there sandy undulations, generally bare of
vegetation. Salvadora, _Jhow_, _Furas_, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, continue;
_Furas_ and _Rairoo_ most common; a new Chenopodium and a Salsola, or a
plant of the same genus as that met with yesterday, swarming in some
places, both species were common in some parts, in others one of the two
only occurred. Road generally excellent, level and unbroken. Two small
ghurrees or forts occurred, with a large patch of cotton, and still
larger of _Bagree_: a small Sedoid-looking plant with yellow flowers, and
one or two other (to me) novelties occurred: Heliotropium, Fagonia,
_Joussa_, _Bheir_. In those parts in which loose sand had become
accumulated, it not only formed banks, but every bush was submerged in
it. The fresh sand must be derived from decomposition of the hard level
plain by the action of the air: yet there should be a regular gradation
in size of the waves; those nearest the windward side of the desert ought
to be the smallest. Rock pigeon of Loodianah seen.
There are two ghurrees or forts at the halting place, both small; the
water is tolerable. The chief trees are Salvadora and _Rairoo_.
_24th and 25th_.--Left in the evening and marched all night through
the desert, which commences within two miles of Rogan, and towards which
place vegetation gradually becomes more scarce until it disappears
entirely. This sandy waste is upwards of twenty miles in extent: in the
direction we traversed it, NW. or NNW., it is almost totally deprived of
vegetation; one or two plants, such as Salsoloid, being alone observable
near its borders. The surface is generally quite flat, in some places
cut up by beds of small streams: the surface is firm, and bears marks of
inundation: tracks of camels, etc. being indented. We reached Bushore at
5.5 A.M.; the camels performed twenty-six miles in ten hours. We halted
for four hours in the centre of the desert and tried to sleep but the
cold was too great, striking up as it were from the ground. The camels
marched through without halting, and we suffered only one loss amongst
them next day. The occurrence of this peculiar desert is unaccountable,
especially its almost absolute privation of vegetation; for many other
places, equally dry, have their peculiar plants, such as Salsola,
Chenopodium, _Furas_, _Rairo_, _Ukkoo_, _Kureel_.
_25th_.--Bushore is a miserable place, consisting of the usual mud houses
and defences: the adjacent nullah does not invite attention; it is
however the only seat of wells, which, as in all this country since
leaving Rogan, are of small diameter, from thirty to forty feet deep, and
contain very little water, which also is rather brackish and well
impregnated with sand. The surrounding country is so barren that it may
be called a desert, while the desert itself may be called the desert of
deserts. I should mention that this ceases first to the west, in which
direction shrubs encroach on it. _Phulahi_, Evolvulus acanthoides,
Tribulus, _Kureel_, etc. are found about Bushore, but the prevailing
plant is Chenopodium cymbifolium.
_26th_.--Leaving Bushore, we proceeded to Joke, which we reached late, it
being nineteen miles: we lost the road however, which is in a direct line
only sixteen miles. We soon came on a nullah, or canal, which we
followed to Meerpore, a rather large double village, with a nice grove of
_Furas_, situated on the dry river Naree, which is as contemptible in
size as deficient in water, this is only procurable by digging wells of
thirty feet deep, and even then in small quantity. Before reaching it,
we passed several villages, mostly deserted and ruined.
The country is frightfully bare of wood; the chief plant is Chenopodium
cymbifolium, and along the canal lemon grass, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_,
_Joussa_, _Ukko_, _Bheir_, etc.; near Meerpore a Centaurea, and Evolvulus
acanthaceus. But along the nullah some wood may be found, stunted though
it be, it is chiefly _Rairoo_. We left Meerpore and proceeded about one
and a half mile from Joke, following the nullah until we came on a canal
in which, from a bund having been thrown across, there was a puddle or
two of water. Here we halted. Much remains of cultivation is presented
about this, chiefly _Bagree_, which is perennial. Durand tells me that
the sprouts of the second year are poisonous to cattle, i.e. horses; but
this report may have been given out purposely by the natives. Along the
river, _Jhow_ and _Furas_ occur, in the naked plains, Chenopodium
cymbifolium, _Rairoo_, and a few _Kureel_, but they are so naked as to
afford little fodder for the camels: there is a little cultivation of
mustard, and _Taira meera_. The hills are about twenty miles off, and
appear about 4,000 feet high, they are precipitous, but the outline is
not rugged: they appear perfectly barren. Those to the north which run
nearly east and west are more distant. No new birds were seen; rock
pigeons occur. The soil would be rich if water were abundant: in the
_Bagree_ fields it is of a cloddy kind.
Reseda, Euphorbia, Salsola lanata, Chenopodium cymbifolium, Evolvulus,
Panicum, and Andropogon occur here. _Jowaree_ sells at twelve seers a
rupee, and _Khurbee_ is very dear. A large plain occurs here covered
with Gramen Panicum, which is in tufts, and has the appearance of being
cultivated.
_27th_.--Halted at our camp near Joke. The Naree runs one and a half
mile to the westward: its bed is fifty yards wide and about ten feet
deep; the banks are well clothed with _Furas_. There is a good deal of
_Bagree_ cultivation.
_28th_.--To _Oostadkote_, nine and a half miles. The road is not a made
one for the latter one-third. Crossed the Naree about two miles from our
encampment: the country appeared the same. On arriving near our halting
place, green wheat fields, intermixed with much fresh Chenopodium, Gramen
Panicum, Reseda were most abundant, Chloroideum, Sinapis, Raphanus
cultivated with _Taira meera_, two Cruciferous plants common, Salsola
lanata also occurs. Water abundant in a channel of fifteen yards wide
and three feet deep, clear and tasteless. _Furas_ the most common shrub.
No grass occurs but the remains of Panicum. Wheat is here sown in
drills, in some places the crop is promising. The country is evidently
occasionally overflowed, witness the indurated surface and the fissures,
which away from the road, renders it bad for camels, being full of holes.
There are several villages visible round our camp, all of the usual
miserable description, and there is a good deal of _Bagree_ cultivation.
The water does not extend more than a mile; it is eight feet deep, and
about twenty yards wide towards the head, where the bund is thrown
across.
_March 1st_.--To Bagh nine and a half miles. The country is quite
similar: the chief plants continue to be Chenopodium cymbifolium,
_Kureel_, a _Rairoo_, _Ukko_, _Joussa_, and Salsola robusta, but occur in
no great plenty, they and all the face of the country exhibit marks of
inundation. Bagh is visible a long way off from its being ornamented
with a gamboge, or ochre-wash, otherwise its aspect is poor and muddy. We
came on the Naree about three miles from the town, and as it has been
bunded, it is full of clearish blue water, to a good depth. We encamped
about one and a half mile on the south side of the town. About the head
of the bund there is a good deal of wheat cultivation, and some mustard.
In these _khets_ Reseda is very abundant, Heliotrope is also common; I
picked up a Matthiola and a Pommereulla. The banks of the Naree are
clothed with small _Furas_, which in these parts are always encrusted
with saline matter, or, as it would seem, pure salt. Rock pigeons both
sorts, Loodianah rats, etc.
Bagh is celebrated for gunpowder; it is a largish, straggling, but poor
place, though thickly tenanted. Its latitude is 29 degrees 1' 20", and
is placed thirty miles too far south in Tassin's last map. Sugar-candy
from Bussorah and cloth, are the principal articles sold.
_4th_.--Marched sixteen miles to Mysoor: direction at first NNW. and
latterly west, close to the Brahorck hills. Water is plentiful in bunds
and river, but the country is very very bare, Salicornia robusta
uncommon, Plantago canescens, Poa, Cynodon, _Ukko_ is very common,
otherwise _Kureel_ is the predominant plant. A good deal of wheat
cultivation, every thing depends on water: the wheat along watercourses
is luxuriant, but where water is less plentiful, stunted: soil the same,
a tenacious sandy clay when wet: fields very free from weeds. Reseda
very common, but very small, Heliotropium ditto, Crucifera hispida ditto.
Green wheat a maund for a rupee. The road or rather country, is
intersected here and there by ravines.
_5th_.--Halted. The nearest range of hills are six miles off, they have
a very peculiar irregular brown appearance. The higher ones also have a
similar appearance; these appear quite precipitous, and have in some
parts a curious crenated outline. The chief vegetation about this place
is _Kureel_, especially along the river and towards the bund, which last
is well filled with water. _Kureel_, _Furas_, _Ukko_, very common,
Cynodon, Prenanthoid, Poa minima, _Joussa_, Fagonia, Saccharum, Nerioid.
In the water Scirpus, Cyperaceus, Charae two species, Potomogeton two
species, Valisnaria, Typha. On banks, Plantago cana, a curious
_Sileneacea_, a splendid Orobanche, and a Brassicacea.
The birds continue the same: there is abundance of Fulica, swarms of
waterfowl, herons, plovers, etc.; starlings re-appear.
Some wheat fields well irrigated; most luxuriant _Khujoors_, radishes.
_6th_.--Marched to Nowshera, sixteen miles: five first miles across a
plain scantily furnished with _Kureel_. Sturt tells me the country looks
quite a desert to the eastward from one of the hills. Thence we came on
the hills, through which and the dividing valleys we proceeded for two
miles, thence emerging into a narrow valley in which Nowshera is
situated, drained by the river of Mysoor, which is an insignificant
running stream.
The hills are very curious, totally bare of vegetation, not more than two
or three stunted Chenopodium cymbifolium being seen on or about them.
They do not exceed 300 feet in height; their composition is various; they
are much worn by rain, and the outline although generally sharp, is often
rounded. They present great variety, but chiefly are of a soft clayish
looking substance, distinctly enough stratified, the uppermost strata
being indurated and often quite smooth, and of a sub-ochreous appearance.
The outer ridges on each side of the range slope gradually outwards, and
the surface in these slopes is smooth. Inside, or towards the inner part
of the range, they are generally precipitous, but beyond the uppermost
strata, the exposed face is not indurated, hence this can scarcely arise
from exposure to the weather. In these places they look much like
sandstone, the fragments at the base of the cliffs are clayey, mixed with
brown angular masses, occasionally shingle, and indeed, a low ridge near
the north side of the range is chiefly of shingle. The direction is
NNE., the angle of inclination of the slopes say 30 degrees. The hills
are highest towards the centre, and here some of the strata are curved.
The plain between this and the main range is much broken by ravines
caused by rain; it is thinly covered with _Kureel_, Salsola robusta,
Chenopodium, etc. The vegetation along the river is the same as at
Mysoor. Durand finds nummulites, but thinks them brought down by the
river. The strata or rather debris of slips often intersected by nearly
erect projecting lines of a fibrous dyke. There is some wheat
cultivation in the fields, a new Plantago, a Ruta, Silenacea, a curious
Composita, two Boragineae, Phalaris, Phleum, Avena, two or three
Crucifera, Trigonella, and Melilotus are to be found. The vegetation
elsewhere is much the same, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Ukko_, Chenopodium,
Lycium albidum re-occurs.
_7th_.--Proceeded to Dadur, a distance of seven and a half miles, nearly
north. The country is a good deal cut up by water: within two and a half
miles of Dadur we crossed the Naree, a running stream, with small
boulders, and high clayey banks. The country improves towards Dadur,
topes becoming more frequent. Salsola lanata abundant: a good deal of
cultivation occurs along the river.
_10th_.--Dadur is a good sized, and more orderly looking place than Bagh,
and is ornamented with well wooded gardens, among which the _Khujoor_
holds a conspicuous place. An elegant and large _Bheir_ and a Mimosa,
are two other trees of the place; it is situated on the left bank of the
Bolan river. The bed of this river until the Levee bund was cut, had
been dry, but there is now plenty of water in it. It is in some places
much choked by bulrushes, etc., it is eighty yards broad, and is shingly.
Dadur stands nearly on the end of a good sized plain, surrounded on all
sides by hills, of which those traversed to Nowshera, run NNE. and are
lowest. The main range is four or five miles off. The greater part of
this plain is uncultivated and covered with _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Joussa_,
Sal. lanata, and Chenopodium; but along the sides of the river, as well
as near that crossed en route to this place from Nowshera, there is a
highly luxuriant cultivation of wheat, bearded and beardless, and barley.
In some places near the town, are rich gardens of _sonff_, coriander,
_Mola_, cress, onions, carrots, beet, among which a few poppies and
Cannabis occur. These, as well as the fields, are protected with loose
_Bheir_ fences. There are a few small villages around, all of the same
kucha or temporary construction, together with some remains of cotton,
which in these parts is perennial.
There are no wild trees to be found, excepting perhaps an elegant species
of willow. The vegetation of the fields is highly interesting,
consisting of many European forms, similar to those at Nowshera--Avena,
Phleum, Polygonium, Zanthoxyloid, Erodium! Anagallis in abundance,
Plantago, _Pecagee_, Cynodon two species, Andropogon, Melilotus,
Medicago, Boraginea, Malva, Tetragonolotus, Astragaloides, Sperguloides,
Cruciferae.
In the bed of the river Nerium, Paederioides, Crotalaria, etc. of which
the former is common every where: Fagonia, Viola found in the bed of the
river crossed en route hither, a very curious plant. Antirrhenoid was
brought from the hills by Capt. Sanders, singular in the inequality of
the calyx and the great development of the posticous sepal.
Altogether this spot is curious in regard to vegetation, for the mean
annual temperature must be high, and the winter temperature by no means
low enough to account for the appearance presented.
The only novel birds are a jackdaw, with the voice and manners of the red-
billed Himalayan species, and which I have only seen at a distance, and a
different sort of Pterocles.
_11th_.--Proceeded to Drubbee, eight miles from Dadur, and about three
within the range of hills, the plain towards which is rather elevated,
and generally covered with boulders and shingle. The vegetation of this
shingly plain is much the same, Chenopodium, _Ukko_, Salsola, _Kureel_,
_Rairoo_; the most common shrubby plant, however, is an elegant Mimosa,
much like the _Babool_, with white thorns; Nerium oleander is also very
common along cuts.
In some wheat fields I procured Imperata, a new Plantago, and a curious
Gnaphalium. The entrance to the pass is gradual; the hills almost
entirely bare. I noticed _Rairoo_, Salvadora, _Kureel_. The most novel
plant is a curious, erect, bushy, thorny Convolvulus, which is one of the
most common plants farther in. The pass to Drubbee is wide, say 300
yards; the only obstacle exists in the shingle, which renders the road
heavy. No abutments are present, jutting out from the hills, the stream
is considerable but easily fordable, and abounds with fish, the Mahaseer,
and two or three species of Gonorhynchus. The hills about Drubbee are
not more than 500 feet high. They are generally of a coarse breccia, the
component parts principally limestone; abundance of nummulites. The
chief vegetation of the pass is one or two Andropogoneous grasses, and
Apocynum nerioides. There is absolutely no fodder for camels, which
however, take readily to grass. Towards the mouth of the pass, Paederia
involucrata, Villarsia, Lycioid, Stenophyllum and _Ukko_ are common, but
they are rare inside, although the last continues some distance up the
hills and attains a large size, becoming quite arboreous. A Crucifera, a
rhubarby sorrel, a Goodyera, and one or two grasses, were the only
additional novelties met with.
_12th_.--Marched on eight miles, after five of which we turned to the
right, and the pass became and continued narrow, until we reached our
halting place, which is something like what we may suppose to be the
remains of a mountain, still a good deal elevated above the bed of river.
The mountains continued the same in the gorge, until we came to limestone
cliffs, which afforded a peculiar vegetation, Linaria retephioides,
Linaria alia pusilla foliis 5-gonis cordatis, floribus luteis minutis
pubescens, specimen lost, one or two Rubiaceae, a Salvia, several very
interesting grasses, among which is a Stipa, a Composita, Santanoides, a
curious Capparidea, Cassia, etc. etc.
The hills have increased in height, in many places they were extremely
picturesque, split and divided in every direction. The valley running
off to south on our entrance into the gorge: river diminished somewhat in
size. Jheely spots, with very deep water common, surrounded with thick
Andropogon, Typha and Scirpus jungle. Few fish were seen and none taken.
Can the Mahaseer not reach this? Gonorhynchus continue, but they never
take a fly; Ophiocephalus, _Sowlee_; turtle caught by bearers, Silurus.
No less than twenty-three plants novel to me were gathered on the
limestone, which looks as bare as the breccia; all its plants grew in
small tufts or singly, and all adhered firmly to the rock. The only tree
which continues is _Phulahi_ or _Rairoo_; Convolvulus spinosus very
common, a very curious Chenopodioid, Reseda with Cruciferous qualities.
_13th_.--Proceeded to Gurmab, eight and a half miles. Country continues
the same. The defile after crossing some rather broad water three feet
deep, opened out into a rather large valley, near the south end of which
Gurmab is situated, and it is _ornamented_ with a good many _Rairoo_
trees, of indifferent size and appearance. No change whatever in the
vegetation; Salsola prima occurs sparingly.
_14th_.--Halted at Gurmab. The hills close to our encampment are of
limestone, which is in many places very angular. Oolite found by Durand
in a low range, standing by itself in the valley, it generally bears a
vast quantity of nummulites and madrepores. A flat discoid organized
remain occurs in abundance, and probably belongs to the same group.
_Ukko_, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_ rare, Convolvulus spinosus, Frankenioides,
Stipaceum gramen, Euphorbia, Polygonum rheoides, Salvadora, may be found.
Along the water Andropogonoides 2, Typha, Arundo, Juncus, Scirpus
juncinus in abundance. In the water, a new Naias, and Conferveae. In a
ravine near our camp, I found a Cynoglossum and a curious Periploceous
plant, in habit approaching to certain Aphyllous, true Asclepiads.
A few stunted dates are visible near Gurmab, which is three miles from
Kirtah, and towards the deep water there is a ruin of a single house.
_Rairoo_, Nerioid, and Lycium albidum are the most common ground plants.
There is only _Rairoo_ for camels, who do not thrive on harsh grasses,
although compelled by hunger to eat them. Large flocks of Doombah sheep
and goats belonging to Khelat men were met with. Mahaseer in abundance,
and very greedy after a red hackle of fish, Macrognathus and
Opheocephalus occur also. Of birds the white vulture, Alauda cristata et
alia, with a notched beak, a partridge which I had not previously seen,
Motacilla alia.
_15th_.--Proceeded to Beebee Nanee, nine and a half miles up the valley
in which Gurmab is situated. The road tolerably level and good; boulders
not however common. The village of Kuttah, is one mile to the right,
consisting of one ruined house; near the exit from the valley a burial
ground occurs, having flags, or banners, pointing out the graves, which
are covered with heaps of stones. The exit from the valley is by a
narrow pass through a low range of angular limestone, thence up another
narrow shingly valley or narrowish gorge, and over a small stream of
water of ordinary temperature, where we encamped: in the second valley
two spots were observed covered with graves. Immense flocks of birds
were seen on the range to the west of the valley. In the first valley
Paederia involucrata and Salsola prima, are the most common plants. On
the limestone hills, Convolvulus spinosus, Frankeniacea, Plantago
villosa, and a curious Composita, subacaulis, involucro foliaceo, of
which the single specimen has been lost, a few _Bheirs_.
Encamped in a small valley or pass leading to Khelat, a marked one only a
few hundred yards wide. To the west, the hills continue very barren.
Gurmab--this takes its name from the warmth of the water, which
apparently rises in several sedgy spots; the united waters form a small
stream abounding with Mahaseer, Barbus, etc. and falling into another
stream, again meets the main river, which runs off to the eastward from
the place where it is crossed towards Gurmab. There is no sign of
bubbling in the springs, although the water commences to run visibly from
within a few yards. The temperature of one did not vary from 76 degrees,
which must be about the mean temperature of the place, but the
temperature of a deep body of water after the confluence of several
springs was 82 degrees, so that some of them must hence be of
considerable temperature: the highest examined was 81 degrees.
Of three springs examined--the first of these had a temperature of 82
degrees Fahr.--the second of 77 degrees, these unite to form the
streamlet that runs towards the east--the third spring had a temperature
of 77 degrees: this is crossed on entering the valley from the south, it
runs under a limestone range, and then bends off to the south-east to
unite with the main stream. Cyprinus fulgens and C. bimaculatus were
found in the 82 degrees spring. From the variation in the temperature of
the three, it is obvious that neither represents the mean temperature of
the place.
_16th_.--To Abigoom, eight and a quarter miles, through a similar country
up a valley in a NNW. direction; the valley is narrowed towards the
middle, and is a plain of considerable inclination, the chief rocks
passed are limestones. No fodder for camels, and little enough on the
road for horses; the chief vegetation consisting of Nerioides, Paederia
involucrata, and small tufts of _Kuss-kuss_ grass; Ruwash is common,
Lycium album; Salsola prima are not common, and the _Bheir_ is rare. A
new and curious plant looking like _Kureel_ was found, male flowers with
large semi-antheriferous bearing disc. Apocynum viminale not uncommon,
and not ruined by cattle, Prenanthoid albiflora, Echinopsides, a fine
Begonia, B. punicoides, arbuscula; Salvadora also occurred. The inclined
valleys are very shingly and bouldery. The mountains as barren as ever.
There is at Beebee Nanee a running streamlet, in which small Mahaseer,
Nepuroid, Gonorhynchus and Barbus may be found; also a species of Cancer.
We were encamped close to the cliffy termination of a limestone range, in
which Linaria, Trichodesma, Cynoglossum, Ruwash, Labiata, and a most
singular Telepheoid polygalous looking plant were found. There is some
fodder along the water for horses, but for camels scarcely any: we
accordingly lose six to ten camels now daily. There was a curious echo
from the cliff.
_17th_.--To-day we halt at Abigoom, which is at the extremity of an
inclined plain, and 2,500 feet above the sea; some of the boundary hills
are considerably higher, the valley is shingly and bouldery, covered with
the usual plants, but more scantily: Nerioid, Paederia involucrata,
Lycium albidium, Apocynum viminale.
I went to some wheat cultivation yesterday afternoon about two and a half
miles off, in a small valley to the south-east. The wheat was fine, all
bearded, most of the Dadur plant occurred in it with some curious
novelties, Boraginea, Cynoglossum, Compositae, Cuscuta, and a new Reseda.
The Melilotus and red Anchusoid were not found, Plantago, were among the
most abundant. A single _Furas_ tree and some _Kureel_ were seen near
the wheat. The weather unsettled; cloudy; rain fell at night and early
this morning. A _cafilah_ or caravan from Candahar with figs and raisins
passed us. Rock pigeon of Loodianah and the small partridge were
observed. There is a streamlet here.
_18th_.--Detained by bad weather, which threatened the whole of
yesterday. The river came down during the night, flooded, and upset some
of the tents, damaging many things, but not carrying off much. It rained
smartly almost the whole night: we moved this morning to rather higher
ground, but not so high as to preclude all danger should the river rise
again. A dawk man arrived last night, bringing a handful of tulips which
he said came from Shal; it is a small species, foliis subtortis undulatis
caule 1-flora, flore amplo aureo subodora.
_19th_.--Advanced to Sirekhugoor, distance nineteen miles, ascent
throughout on a considerably inclined plain up the bed of a river,
shingly and bouldery; the pass is not much contracted, but a short
distance from Abigoom we parted from every thing like valleys. The
vegetation continues much the same: _Kureel_, Salsola prima re-occurred
near Abigoom but sparingly, chief vegetation consists of clumps of
withered coarse Andropogons, Nerioides, Paederia, and Lycium, but less
common than before, while Apocynum viminale, and Convolvulus spinosus
have increased. The bed of the streamlet is until near Sirekhugoor,
chiefly occupied by a large Arundo just past flowering, in which Typha
also occurs sparingly: within 300 feet of the halting place, a solitary
_Khujoor_, and some wheat cultivation occurs, the latter much behind that
of Abigoom. In the fields Polygala occurred with a Galium; the most
common plant being a Sinapis found at Dadur: some _Bheir_ trees also
occur here; a few Compositae, Labiatae, and Cruciferae, similar to those
at Abigoom, are also found: the novelties were _Peganum_ which continues
throughout the pass, Hyoscyamoid, and one or two Compositae; while in
water-courses close to it the first dripping rocks occurred covered with
Adiantum and fructiferous mosses, and a curious Primuloid plant out of
flower, with a curious Clematis.
The halting place is at the head of the stream, which gushes copiously
out of a rock; the bed of the river or defile is 100 yards wide: the
mountains immediately adjoining not exceeding 1,000 feet in height, but
the second range is much higher, that to our north being plentifully
sprinkled with snow. These mountains are barren, chiefly covered with
Convolvulus spinosus, which has a different aspect, with a Sytisoid,
handsome silvery shrub, a species of Caragana and Apocynum viminale:
about the spring and in other places there are thick patches of a very
dwarf palm, and a solitary fig tree, a Lycium album continues: the bed
occupied by tufts of coarse Andropogons and Apocynum viminale; about the
spring Adiantum, a small Boraginia, white flowered small Compositae, a
withered Hepaticum, two or three efructiferous mosses, and the Primuloid
plant. In the stream Chara, Conferva, Peppermint, _Beccabunga_,
Convolvulus, like C. reptans, Arundo left behind nearly. On the
mountains fragrant Labiatae, Compositae, and Umbelliferae are commencing.
The barometer stood at 25.669; thermometer 64 degrees at 11 A.M. Many
soft rocks occurred: passed a clayey looking one, with very elevated
strata, containing veins of transverse crystals: the sides of the defile
are often precipitous, these are generally formed of conglomerate.
_20th_.--Continued up the same defile, a gradual ascent, and about two
miles from Sirekhugoor entered the pass by pre-eminence; very much
narrowed, precipitous cliffs on both sides: this continues for some time.
The road good, shingly, but not very bouldery; very winding, and
generally capable of strong defence; much cover exists from the rugged
margins of cliffs, and windings of the road. The mountains, after four
or five miles were passed, gradually receded and became less precipitous:
at length we came to gradually rounded more distant mountains; then to a
small valley; then ascended say 100 feet, over a low rocky range, and
descended into a fine valley, surrounded by usual barren looking
mountains: high ranges to the north and south covered with snow
presenting a beautiful view--and now entered Khorassan. We were
accompanied by several bands of a gypsyish-looking people, forming parts
of a _cafilah_. They were accompanied with numerous goats: and camels
ornamented with trappings.
Throughout the very narrow portion of the pass the vegetation continues
the same: at Sirekhugoor a Xanthoxylon appears and continues nearly
throughout: this and an oleinous looking small tree are the only
arborescent plants: Apocynum viminale and the other plants of Sirekhugoor
continue, nor did I notice any new ones further than a Sedum, and
Tortula. However fragrant Labiatae and Compositae increase in number,
but none are in flower.
As soon as we opened out from the pass, the vegetation almost entirely
changed; the hills assumed a rounded form, covered with low bushes, and
were much less rocky. Umbelliferae, Labiatae, and Compositae abound,
some of them deliciously fragrant: an Astragaloid spinosus very common, a
shrubby Cerasus, Thalictrum, Hypoxis, and small Cruciferae abundant. The
chief vegetation consists of grasses in low round tufts; Anemone, Tulipa,
etc. all small. After crossing a low range we came into the valley,
which is almost entirely covered with an Artemisioid odoriferous plant;
no verdure was visible, even on the snowy ranges. We encamped close
under a ridge about two and a half miles to the north of the summit of
the pass.
_21st_.--Halted: there being some water collected in attempts to form a
nullah from the last rain, it is quite brownish and opaque, but deposits
no sediment, and makes good tea, although disagreeable to drink in any
other form. I walked out in the afternoon into a valley to the west,
close to our encampment, and thence ascended a hill 600 feet high at
least.
This valley like the one in which we are encamped is covered entirely by
an Artemisioid, a very fragrant plant, each shrub of which is distinct;
mixed with it are tulips, several small Cruciferae, and a
Fritillarioides.
The same Artemisioid is also the chief plant on all the hills: it is
mixed, but in small quantities with Cerasus pygmaeus, Equisetoid,
Caragana, and one or two shrubby Labiatae; and also especially above,
with a curious Astragaloid looking plant. The herbaceous plants are
numerous, consisting of very fragrant Umbelliferae, bursting into leaf;
tulips, Fritillarioides, Trichostema, Erodium, Iris, Thalictrum, Senecio,
Boragineae 2, Gilenacea, several tufted Gramineae, Berberideae,
Ranunculoides, Myosotis, Anemone cracea, Asphodeloid, Mesembryanthoids;
of mosses Tortula, Grimmia.
_22nd_.--Proceeded to Sinab, a distance of fifteen and three quarter
miles, up two valleys, no ascents. These valleys are elevated towards
the mountains and generally depressed in the centre: in some they stretch
out a long way from the mountain to which they may be imagined to belong.
The mountains seen from a distance jutting out from perhaps the centre of
a plain, look curious. The vegetation is generally Artemisioid, and very
fragrant: the first valley in its depressed portions was covered with a
Salsoloid looking plant, to the exclusion of Compositae, but these last
recurred in the higher parts.
With the Compositae, swarms of small Cruciferae occur; that with purple
flowers and pinnatisect leaves being the most common. Very rugged hills
are visible to the north-east and north of our route, presenting a very
different appearance from the usual aspect: they are steep to the east,
and present inclined slopes to the west.
_Sunday_, _24th_.--Halted this day. Little new occurs in the valley,
except a few trees out of leaf and flower, which, though trees here, yet
the species are not so elsewhere. At this place are the heads of the
river of Pisheen, which appear to arise more artificially than naturally
from _Kahreezes_, or wells dug in a rude way, and communicating by
subterranean channels; those nearest the natural outlet of the water
being the shallowest. The vegetation is the same; there is a little
cultivation, but nothing to indicate any descent. The amount of
population is not great; and the hills to the west are covered with snow.
The chief vegetation is _Santonica_. In cornfields Fumariaceae, Adonis,
Cruciferae, Pulmonaria, Arenaria, Hordei sp., Tulipa lutea, and
Hyacinthus? may be found.
The vegetation of the plains, inclusive of Santonica, consists generally
of three or four small Cruciferae, Tulipa lutea.
I went to the west towards the snow, and found in the river here an
aquatic Ranunculus, foliis omnibus immersis, floribus albis, Chara is
common; gravelly slopes commence some distance from hills, covered with
Santonica, Astragaloid spinosus, Leguminosae, a spinous Statice, Cytisus
argenteis, Composita floribunda carnosa.
The mountains are covered with masses of rock. One tree occurs with a
Fraxinus? a Thymeleous looking shrub, Cytisus, Caragana. The herbaceous
plants are very numerous, Compositae, Cruciferae, small Leguminosae,
Berberideae, Isopyroides, Crocus? Gentiana, Onosma and other Boragineae,
Umbelliferae, Silenaceae, especially small Arenariae; Cupressus commences
about 6,500 feet, near the Cypress an Arctium occurred, at least it has
the habit of that genus, Onosma, a curious Boraginea calyce sinubus
bidentigeris, demum plano! ampliato bilabiato! clauso, quasi hastato
lobato, nucibus compressis, 2, Sedums 4, Arenariae, a fine Gentiana,
Crocoides, Iris, Ornithogaloides or Trichonema occurred, with many
others. The greatest elevation attained was about 1,200 feet above the
camp. Chikor and the smaller partridge were seen.
_25th_.--Marched to Quettah, eight and a half miles up the valley over a
delightful road. The valley is cultivated, and many villages are visible
with their orchards, consisting of mulberry trees, cherries, and
apricots, surrounded with mud walls; the houses miserable, and all trees
out of leaf: the crops under cultivation are more advanced, but depend on
irrigation, some salad-bearing plant occurred cultivated in trenches like
asparagus: the fields are clean, and sometimes well manured. A Veronica
allied to V. agrestis, 2 or 3 Euphorbiaceae, a very well defined
Plantago, Hyacinthus, and a pretty Muscari, were among the novelties;
Juncus, Chara, Carex, occurred in some marshy spots. I was most struck
with the occurrence of at least two species of Lucerne, or Trefoil: wells
are common, and water abundant. The climate is delightful, temperature
49 degrees at 9 P.M. in a tent.
_26th_.--I ascended towards a snowy range to the ESE. of our camp,
crossing a cultivated portion of the valley extending to the gradual
slopes so universal between the level portion and the bases of the
mountains, and which are always covered with shingle, and occasionally
much cut up by watercourses. Turning a ridge I ascended up a ravine,
rather wide and easy at first, but becoming gradually narrow, and at last
difficult. On coming to its head I rambled some distance higher among
precipitous rocks, the ground generally covered with loose shingle,
giving bad footing. The rocks too were treacherous, often giving way
under the feet. I was still 1,000 feet from the summit, which is the
second range between our camp and the snow but which is not visible from
the camp. From it I saw the camp, and the valley of Pisheen beyond the
termination of the Tuckatoo range. Water boiled at 196 degrees 7',
making the height about 8,300 feet, in my (new) Woollaston instrument at
686; temperature of the air 46 degrees 5'. Nothing occurred to repay me
for the fatigue of the excursion. Junipers or cypress form the chief
arbusculous vegetation, but even these are scanty; they commence at 6,500
feet, and continue to the snow: Fraxinus occurred about 7,000 feet, and
another tree of which I could make nothing, it being out of flower and
leaf. Compositae were the prevailing vegetation; but of these, only the
remains were found, which were very fragrant. A large thorny Leguminous
shrub out of leaf, etc. looking much like a Rosa, Equisetoides, etc.; of
mosses, Weissia Templetonii, and Tortula, so that in these there is very
little variety; the debris of one Hepatica occurred.
At the foot of the mountains, the only place out of the valley where any
vegetation is to be found, Asphodelus, radicibus luteis, foliis
triangularibus, a fine plant coming into flower, Cytisus, Caragana,
Narcissus? Cruciferae, among them a small Draba, Cerasus pygmaeus,
Peganum, Salsoloid of Mumzil, Trichonema, Myosotis, Gentiana of Chiltera,
Buddlaea, Carex; indeed the vegetation is precisely the same as at
Chiltera. The only novelty was Bardana in flower, and it proves to be a
cruciferous plant of large size.
On the stony slopes, a shrubby spinous Centauroid, foliis pinnatifidis
glaucis, Cytisus, Caragana, Asphodelus and Cheiranthus are the prevailing
plants. No Santonica is found about here.
A new Iris occurs in abundance: near this in wettish parts of the valley
a Vicia, Muscari, Hyacinthus and others as before. The chief cultivation
is wheat, irrigated in plots: the soil when saturated with water, forming
a clayish, adhesive, finely pulverulent mass, which cakes on drying. A
watermill for flour, having a horizontal wheel acted on by the stream as
in Bootan occurs; the grain drops in from a pyramidal cone fixed over the
two horizontal stones, in the upper of which there is a hole. The
apparatus is very rude.
The height attained by me on the eastern ridge being about 8,300 feet;
that of the 2nd range, will be 9,300 feet at least, and the height of the
peak or highest ridge, cannot be less than 11,000 feet.
30th.--Continue to halt. There is a good deal of cultivation about this
place, but the crops will not be ripe before August: it is principally
wheat; munjit is also cultivated on trenched ground: the young sprouts
have a good salad-like flavour. The Suddozye Lora runs through the
valley, about two miles from the town: it is a small stream, crowded here
and there with bulrushes, sedges, etc. Towards its banks there is a good
deal of Santonica, but elsewhere there is no good fodder, and wherever
this is the case the camels eat Iris, and destroy themselves. The valley
is sprinkled over with villages and orchards, and is picturesque enough.
In one spot, where water runs over the surface, it is delightfully green
and velvety, covered with short grass and trefoil, Carex, etc.
In cornfields in this direction, Berberidea ranunculiflora is very
common, Muscari, Hyacinthus, Taraxacum, Plantago. Of animals the Jerboa,
sent to Macleod by Mr. Mackenzie, of the Artillery, several specimens
having been caught here: presenting affinities obviously with the hare,
and analogies with the Kangaroo. Macleod has just given me, from his
namesake of the 3rd Cavalry, a tadpole-like animal, very similar to one
from the Khasiya Hills. I fear it is a tadpole, but I keep the specimen
lest it should be a Lepidosiren.
The orchards here consist of cherry, and a pomaceous tree which also is
cultivated at Shikarpore, and on the skirts occasionally of willows,
which, were they unmutilated, would be handsome trees. The Punjabi name
of the pomaceous one is _Sai-oo_, of the cherry or plum _Aloochah_.
Senecionoid glauca is extremely common towards the river, but is not
eaten by camels. In the streams arising from springs a Myriophylloides
is very common; as also in some places, Ranunculus aquaticus, Beccabunga,
Mentha piperitioid, a Sicyoid, Juncus, Coniferae, and Cariceae, all
small.
Along the banks of the river, there is a good deal of a small thorny
shrub with white bark and fleshy clavato-spathulate leaves. Themopsis is
extremely common, Crucifera glauca ditto, Peganum less so, Achilleoides
is very common. In damp spots a Lotus (out of flower) occurs. The
ground is covered in many places with an efflorescence of saltpetre.
_Quettah_.--The country was so disturbed throughout the greater part of
the line, and attacks on followers so frequent, that I did not go out so
much during the last few days as I otherwise would. The only plant that
seems to a considerable extent local, is the larger Asphodel, which is
however found occasionally towards Kuchlak. Within the last few days
vegetation has rapidly progressed; the orchards bursting into leaf, and
the whole plain, where uncultivated, is assuming a greenish tint. I have
nothing to add respecting the botany, except having found Ceratophyllum
and two species of Chara, one a very interesting species from having the
joints furnished with semi-reflexed, very narrow leaves, it is apparently
Dioeceous, there is also a Naiad, much like that found at Dadur. No
Lemnae occur among the vegetation: there is some sort of pea cultivated:
but the chief object is wheat, then next to it in extent is Lucerne,
which is cultivated in plots; the ground being laid out as in wheat, so
as to allow of irrigation.
The climate is variable; rain generally falls every four or five days,
before this happens it becomes hot and hazy, afterwards it is very cold
and clear: the alternations are hence very great. From the thermometer
immersed in the fount of a spring gushing out from a _Kabreeza_, the mean
temperature would appear to be 56 degrees. Water running in cuts close
to it, was 66 degrees. A Tauschia occurs in abundance near the spot, and
is remarkable for illustrating the nature of the leaves of the upper
parts; it is curious that all such have a peculiar aspect. (For other
plants of this neighbourhood, see Cat. and Icones.)
The town although the third in Khorassan, is a miserable place and has a
deserted aspect, the houses are of the most temporary construction, and
the hill is crowned by a poor half-ruined _kucha_ fort; the gates of the
town are ornamented with wild goats' horns and heads. There is no trade,
and the place is stated to be plundered often by Caukers.
Orchards--apricots of large size, and very large cherry trees, a
pomaceous plant with the habit of poplar, occurs; the Ulmus of this place
is one of the largest sized trees; no walnuts.
_April 6th_.--Left Quettah for Kuchlak. We traversed the sandy plain
and then ascended the gravelly slope to the pass traversed before
reaching Kuchlak, the ascent and descent were about equal, but the former
was long and gradual, the latter rapid and short. The features of the
country are precisely the same; the pass is short, the descent to the
ravine, which in the rains is evidently a watercourse, short and steep,
not 100 feet. The mountains forming the sides are steep; and those to
the left, bold and romantic, with here and there a small tree. The plain
of Kuchlak is like that of Quettah, well supplied with water-cuts and one
small canal, but miserably cultivated, and with very few villages. The
hills forming its west boundary are low, rugged, and curiously variegated
with red and white. Tuckatoo forms part of its eastern boundary: no snow
is visible on its face towards Kuchlak: a few low rounded hillocks occur
in the centre of the valley. The chief vegetation round the camp, is
Santonica. We encamped close to the western boundary of the valley,
about two miles from the grand camp: total distance of the march thirteen
and a half miles. The climate is very hot and variable; thermometer
ranged to-day from 40 degrees to 86 degrees.
The chief vegetation of the gravelly slopes is as marked as ever, and
differs entirely from that of the sandy tillable portion; it consists of
Centaurea fruticosa, C. spinosa, Anthylloides or Ononoides, Astragalus
spinosus, and Staticoides, another thorny Composita occurs, but is not
common, the herbaceous plants are Cruciferae in large numbers, as well as
Compositae; of Boragineae, a good many, some Labiatae, a large Salvia:
towards the tillable lands or where gravelly places occur among these,
Asphodelus is common with Cheiranthus; one or more fruticose Dianthi
occur in these places, and a curious shrubby Polygonum.
In dry watercourses Cytisus is common, with a host of small Cruciferae,
Boragineae, and Compositae; Papaveraceae are very common with Glaucium.
The novelties in the pass were Ficus, Lycium, some grasses, Onosma. (See
Cat. from Nos. 411 to 430,) Marchantiaceae.
_7th_.--Proceeded to Hydozee, distance eight miles. The country is very
barren, diversified by curious low hills, of a red, white, or yellowish
colour, divided by small bits of plain, which in some cases were a good
deal cut up by ravines. Passed immediately on starting, the Sudoozye
Lora, here a sluggish muddy stream, knee-deep, twenty yards wide, and in
addition to a bad dry cut, we passed likewise another little stream with
a pebbly bottom and rapid current.
The crops composing the very little cultivation seen before arriving,
were backward and scanty: so were those at Hydozee. The chief vegetation
is Santonica; here and there are gravelly spots with Centaurea fruticosa,
spinosa; Statice, Salvia, etc. re-occur. The commonest shrub along the
watercourses is Lycium, with another Lycioid thorny plant.
The low hills were in some cases stratified, the strata in others and
perhaps in most were indistinct: most were rounded, but the outlines at a
distance were very diversified. The novelties today were a fine
vesicular calyxed Astragalus, an Isatidea, tulip of red, orange, and
yellow, indiscriminately mixed, Papaver Rheas, Cheiranthus lapidium,
Asphodels both sorts, but the second and larger one is uncommon, Iris
_Stacyana_ very common in sandy places, Iris agrestis, most common about
Suddozye, Adonis, and Ranunculus Anemoides occurs. Snow on north side of
Tuckatoo mountain as heavy as on Chiltera; the valley of Pisheen is here
a miserable place, narrower than that of Quettah.
_9th_.--Advanced to Hykulzyea, distance twelve miles to the town, about
eleven through a similar country with that previously noted, and until
the expanded part of the valley of Pisheen is entered the aspect is very
barren; the road extends between low rounded hills. After crossing the
valley of Hydozyea, three streams are passed, none of any size. Botanical
features continue the same, Santonica being still the prevailing plant.
The curious frutex pluvinatus of Sinab re-occurred, together with an
additional subspiny Astragaloid shrub and a small Ruta. The hills are
covered with distinct small shrubs, never coalescing into patches.
Peganum continues in addition to the other plants: Glaucioides has
aqueous juice, Papaver Rheas ditto, the other smooth-leaved one has it
slightly milky.
Lycium and Tamarisk 4-fida is rather common: Hykulzyea is a far larger
place than Quettah, but miserably defended. The houses are very
inferior, consisting of thatch and mud. The cultivation of wheat is
rather extensive around. Many villages are seen towards the hills to the
north and NNE.; also one or two forts, but not a tree is to be seen in
the valley which is comparatively very large and very level. The hills
to the north have the ordinary appearance; those separating us from the
valley of Hydozyea, more especially the lower ranges, are so confused
that they look like a chopping sea, and present a red and white colour.
The rock pigeon of Loodianah is common about Hydozyea. A few novelties
occurred in the vegetation, the chief of which being a large Salvoid
Labiata, a plant which is very common throughout Khorassan from Sinab in
gravelly spots. Leguminosae, Boragineae, Compositae, Cruciferae, and
Labiatae, are the prevailing plants; Salsola tertia not uncommon. Birds
as before, Alauda cristata, and Sylvioides being the most common; no red
legged crows were seen. Rock pigeons are abundant.
_10th_.--March to Berumby, distance thirteen miles, the road very bad in
one or two places: the first difficulty being a rather deep ravine, the
second a nullah, with water knee-deep, and very high precipitous banks,
yet both these had to be passed. Much of the baggage was not up at the
encampment until 5 P.M., although we started at 3 A.M., but the nullah
was literally choked up with camels. No change in the vegetation has
appeared, except in the occurrence of large tracts of Tamarisk, which
tree reaches to nearly the same size as the _Jhow_. Very little
cultivation is to be seen; the villages are tolerably numerous,
especially near the hills forming the north boundary of the valley.
_11th_.--Entered the pass which is at first wide, with a gradual ascent,
but which soon becomes narrowish, with a good though gradual and easy
ascent: the mountains are of no height, and they are not generally
precipitous: no limestone, but much clay slate occurs. The ravine up
which we passed, or rather watercourse, was well stocked with
Xanthoxylon, some of large size as to the diameter of trunk, but very
stumpy: water is found not far from the entrance: some cultivation also
occurs and one large walled village, Dera Abdoollah Khan, lay to our
left. Not much change in the vegetation: Xanthoxylon is almost entirely
confined to ravines, Cerasus common, and one or two other prickly shrubs,
and a Ruta, Onosma, Linarea, coming into flower, are among the novelties.
We encamped where the pass becomes narrow, and the ascent steep, and
where water is plentiful, but the stream being soon absorbed does not
appear to run down the main ravine at this season.
_12th_.--Halted, to make the road where the main ascent commences about
400 yards from our camp, and which is about 300 feet high; thence there
is a descent, and afterwards an ascent to about 600 feet above the camp,
whence the _low_ plains of Candahar are visible, as well as the range to
the north of which Candahar stands. The road is good compared with
places elsewhere to be seen, and for common traffic on camels may be easy
enough; but for guns, it is steep and difficult. The way it has been
made by the Engineers is admirable and rapid; three other passes without
roads, and in their rude natural state are as yet to be crossed. The
pass here is narrow, none of the hills rise more than 1,000 feet above
it, they are easily accessible, and are composed chiefly of clay slate.
Chikores are frequent. The cuckoo was heard to-day, as well as a
beautifully melodious titmouse, with a black crown: a fine eagle, or
falcon was seen.
The hills are as usual barren, all the shrubs are thorny, and all the
plants unsocial, never coalescing into any thing like groups. The
Xanthoxylon is found throughout in ravines up to nearly 7,000 feet, the
utmost height of the pass. Fraxmus of Chiltera also occurs, Cerasus
primus, in abundance, Cerasus alius, tertius, not uncommon, Berberis!
here and there in ravines, Equisetoides, Caraganoides altera; the most
common shrubs of any size are Cerasus primus. The other shrubs consist
of the low customary Compositae, and Astragaleae, Umbelliferae are
common, among which last the Nari, a species of Assafoetida occurs? A
beautiful Iris is common, as well as tufts of Berberideae, Asphodelus
major, and which is much eaten when cooked as a _turkaree_ by our hungry
followers, Eryngioides, Aconitoides, a Valeriana, three new small
Veronicae, small Cruciferae, Silenaceae, Boragineae, and Labiatae, form
the bulk of the herbaceous vegetation. An Arenarioid, Muscoid,
Cruciferae, common at the head of the pass. A large Acanthoid leaved
Umbellifera, a Rheoides papillis verrucosum, this is a true Rheum, and
when cultivated becomes the _Ruwash_ of the Affghanistans; it is very
common on the Candahar face of the pass, particularly about Chokey, where
it is in flower.
_13th_.--Proceeded to Chokey, not quite four miles. The top of the pass
may be reached by three or four passes. I went by one to the right,
which is easy enough, and the descent from which is much better adapted
for camels than the made road, which is very steep, with two sharp turns,
but soft. The descent thence is gradual, down one of the ordinary
ravines, well clothed with the usual shrubs and Xanthoxylon: our camels
were a good deal fagged, but more from the halt at the pass, where some
cathartic plant abounds and weakens them very much, than fatigue. The
view from the top of the pass is very extensive: the plains are seen to
have nearly the same level, and are divided here and there very
frequently to north-east and north, by the ordinary mountains.
_14th_.--Halt; water here is not abundant, and is obtained from driblets
and pools; around these, the surface is covered with a rich sward, which
affords fine fodder for a small number of horses. In the swampy spots,
_Beccabunga_, Anagallis, Mentha, Carex, Glaux, apparently identical (so
far as a memory of 7 years may be trusted,) with the English plant, the
small variety of Leontodon, Medicaginoides, Phleum, and the very small
Amaranthoid, Polygonea, occur.
The hills around Chokey, and below it are rounded, those towards the pass
being more steep. They are covered with Centaurea fruticosa, and C.
spinosa, a favourite food of camels when it has young shoots, Santonica,
Statice, all of which grow precisely as before, Boragineae, Compositae,
Labiatae, and Papilionaceae, are the predominant forms, and mostly of the
same type: I observe a tendency among Boragineae to have cup-shaped nuts.
Generally speaking, the plants are the same as those before found. Rheas,
Papaver, Glaucium purpureum, especially the two last are common, Labiata
salvoides, Iris persica, and crocifolia (rare), Trichonema, Gentiana,
Alyssoides.
The novelties were Rheum, Silena fruticosa, Linaria, Ruta, Astragalina, 2
small Silenaceae, Iris, Glaucium aureo-croceum, a beautiful Boragineae
with cup-shaped nut, Lotoides, an Hippophaoid looking shrub, Scrophularia
sp. singulous, Malthioloids spiralis, Allium, Glaux, Nitella, etc. (See
Catalogue 482 to 516.) Graminea very common, Rottboellia and
Anthistiria, 2 curious forms, the other more northern, Umbelliferae
common, Nari much less so than on the south face.
The vegetation of the summit which is nearly 7,000 feet, and of peaks
which rise 600 to 700 feet above the pass, has no change, except the
abundance of Cruciferae and Muscoides; Cerasus is the chief shrub;
Thymelaeus frutex occurs at 6,500 feet. The prevailing rock is clay
slate.
_16th_.--Marched to Dund-i-Golai, distance fifteen miles, we first
descended gradually to the plain, and then traversed this until we
skirted some low hills, about one and a half mile, from which a pool of
water was situated, where we halted, and which was fed by a small cut
coming from some distance. The road was very good throughout, the water-
cuts although not unfrequent, being either shallow or skirting the left
of the road. The vegetation continued the same as about Chokey, until
the plains were reached, but the prickly shrub, habitu Berberidioides,
became more common in the water-cuts below than I had seen it before,
while Santonia, Centaurea spinosa, and the plants of Chokey, disappeared
as we reached the plain, except some few herbaceous forms, which
continued throughout. I was much indisposed during this march, and for
the time we halted at Dund-i-Golai, a period of four days, was unable to
go out, but Capt. Sanders and my people brought me many novelties, which
I have not yet noted down. The chief vegetation of the plain is Salsola
tertia, the surface is level and firm, clothed with scattered Salsola and
a few stunted herbaceous plants, among which a yellow Centaureoid, a
Crucifera siliquis junioribus clavati 4-gonis, were the most common,
there was also a curious Thiscoid looking plant. A considerable change
commenced about the low hills, a Thymelaeus shrub, some curious grasses,
an Erodium, a Santonica, occupying the places of the former shrubs, and
Dipsacus or Scabiosa becoming very common. The height of this place is
about 4,040 feet, the climate most variable. Fahr. thermometer 48
degrees to 105 degrees in single roofed tents. No cultivation seen, a
pool of water is situated near the hill, and a little is reported as
situated half-way between this place and Chokey, this however I did not
see. The country is much parched up, and bears every appearance of
always having been so; no remains of tanks, villages, etc. visible.
Painted partridges were seen; and the eggs of a large bird like a plover?
The wind inclining to be hot, but it is cool up to 7.5 or 8 A.M.
Alaudo cristata? and an Alauda with the form of Sylvia.
_Sunday_, _21st_.--Proceeded to Killa Pootoollah, a distance of ten
miles. The road was good over an open, dry, level country, but
intersected with small cuts: some cultivation was passed, but no
villages. Some little improvement was observed close to the Garrah
hills, which are of the usual description, and of no great height: a
curious slip of the strata exhibited itself, in which the upper strata
are cut away in the centre as if there had been a watercourse there.
Vegetation continues the same. The Thymelaeous shrub and Iris, still
occur in sandy spots, Allium and a second species; Centaureoides, yellow
and pink, Thesioides, a curious sand-binding grass, Salsola tertia most
common, and in some open firm places _Joussa_ reappears as it did at Dund-
i-Golai: Anthemis occurs, Rheas, Salvioides in stony places, otherwise
few of the plants of the Pisheen side are seen; grapes abundant about old
and new cultivation, Hordeum, Bromus several species, Triticoides, etc.,
in profusion. Passed a deep well of considerable diameter, which had an
open communication with a widish and deep canal, the only place I have
seen that would hold a good deal of water; it was cut throughout in
shingle, and was perhaps fifty feet in its deepest part.
_22nd_.--Left Pootoollah for Mailmandah, and on our arrival found some of
the troops and the cavalry had passed through and made a double march to
the river Lora, a distance in all of twenty-four miles. There is a good
deal of pure water at Mailmandah running in a cut by the side of that,
which is in the rains a considerable stream, also one or two _Kabreezes_
about two miles further on, producing excellent water. The road first
led up a ravine of some width, and swardy, and then over low hills, until
we surmounted these to descend into the valley in which part of the army
halted. The country continues mostly the same; although if possible it
is still more barren than before: the mountains generally are more
rugged: the ridges frequently toothed, and the sides precipitous; not a
tree to be seen except a willow near some water, and a small arbusculoid
fig. After passing the halting place we re-ascended an inclined plane,
entered a gorge, and again issued out of it: after a short time again we
entered into another valley drained by an actual river, _really_
_containing water_, and bounded to the west and north-west by curious
red low hills, not unlike an embankment. The vegetation continues much
the same: Salsola tertia very common in some sandy places, Centaurea
spinosa, Statice, Santonia, etc. re-assuming their places on all gravelly
slopes: some novelties occurred as (See Catalogue, Nos. 543 to 574
inclusive,) one or two new shrubs, Cytisus, etc. The heat continues
great; 102 degrees Fahr. in tents in the middle of the day. We encamped
on a flat ground about 200 yards from the river, which contains a good
deal of water, and has a sluggish stream running to the north, surrounded
by mountains, none of any height. Wheat cultivation, Arundo, Vitex,
Prunus or Cerasus abundant in the pass to the river, and yet the former
does not indicate water as it ought to do, Lycium, Tamarisk, Arundo on
the banks of the river, and Tamarisk in profusion in its bed.
The cultivation on the opposite side of the river is remarkably clear of
weeds, as compared with the cultivation at Quettah, etc. Achilleoides,
Veronica, Iris crocifolia, Phalaris, Chenopodium, Rottboellioides,
Hordeum vulgare, being the only or the chief plants cultivated.
Proceeded next to Dai Hap, thirteen miles, over a similar but even more
barren country, the hills being destitute of all vegetation, except a few
stunted small shrubs, such as Statice. The usual plants recur with
shingle and in sand, the chief is a _Santonica_, {349} a few novelties
occurred, among which is a curious plant, with large vesiculate petaloid
connectiva. See Catalogue, No. 576, et sequent.
The hills continue with toothed ridges, near Dai Hap, where water is
abundant, but not in the form of a river. Thymelaea occurs in abundance,
with a Mimosea fruticosa humilis: a curious hairy-fruited Polygonum et
Peganum, is among the most common plants.
_25th_.--To Khoshab, distance twelve miles, over a large level plain,
either sandy, and then generally cultivated, or gravelly, and then
uncultivated: road open: passed two dry beds of rivers: one must be of
large size, but is very shallow. A new Tamarisk occurs along it; no
trees are visible until we approach Candahar: vegetation continues much
the same. _Santonica_, (see above) Centaurea spinosa, Astragalina
(Ononoides recurs), Staticoid, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoid, Peganum, are
the chief plants, especially on gravel; most of the small Cruciferae have
disappeared, Labiata-Salvioides continues; a curious subaphyllous
Composita occurs, Iris persica is not uncommon; another Iris is found
here and there in profusion, with Gnidia in sandy spots, Compositae,
Monocotyledons of Abigoon are common in shingle. New rock pigeons. Fine
madder cultivation in _khets_. Of birds the yellow hammer occurs.
Villages numerous, poor, and though built of mud and straw yet present
abundance of small domes.
In these dry hot plains the prevailing wind is westerly, blowing very
strong in the heat of the day, and having a tendency to become hot: the
thermometer is here 98 degrees. The cultivation of wheat is very general
around our present encampment which is within four miles of Candahar, the
wheat is fine; Lolioides occurs in it.
_26th_.--Halted: Candahar is hid from us by some low hills, on the
surmounting of which a large straggling place is obscurely visible,
interspersed with trees, the valley is much smaller than that in which we
are now, which is very extensive. Munjit cultivation is conducted by
deep trenches, it is a different species I think from that of the
Himalayas. The bed of the Turnuk is now dry and very shallow: and the
hills near us are extremely barren, the chief vegetation being
Paederioides vestila and Staticoides cymosa, Cheiranthus continues. The
vegetation is very poor as indeed it has been since leaving the Khojeb
Amrah, nor is there any appearance to be seen of a better autumnal
vegetation.
Candahar is visible at a distance of six miles, from some low hills to
the north of our camp.
_27th_.--Moved to Candahar, skirting the low hills just mentioned and
passed through two villages, a mile from Candahar in a fine open plain.
Candahar has rather a pleasing aspect; it is situated close to a
picturesque range of hills, and is well diversified with trees, barley
and wheat fields. The slope on which the town stands is a parallelogram;
towers occur frequently along the wall, which is however, of mud, and not
strong; it is surrounded by a ditch utterly insignificant on account of
its narrowness and shelving banks, this ditch is crossed by an
insignificant causeway. The gate at which I entered is oblique, and is
defended by a tower: it leads into the main street which is rather wide
and not very dirty: towards the centre of this you pass under a middling
dome, a street branching off to the right and left; the continuation of
the main street or bazar leads to the _topekhanah_, or artillery ground,
a small space quite disorderly, containing eight or ten guns, most of
them melted at the mouth; one Sheik 18-pounder of cast iron, another of
English make, 140 years old. From the end of this space you pass over
another similar ditch into the fort, the entrance to which is covered,
affording two or three angles capable of good hand to hand defence.
Passing thence through some spaces occupied by low buildings, you reach
Khoondil Khan's house, an extremely rude looking place outside, but very
different within. It consists of two houses, one looking into a small
square with a delicious reservoir of water, and some fine and very green
mulberry trees; the ground being laid out as a garden with sweet-william,
etc.; the water is supplied by a small cut, and is seven or eight feet
deep. The garden fronts of both houses are prettily ornamented, one has
a _tharkhanah_, delightfully cool; generally the rooms are small, coated
with a pretty sort of stucco. The remaining sides of the square are
occupied by offices; small rooms opening into the garden by lattice work
evidently denote a portion of the _zenana_. Altogether the Khan must be
a man of taste.
The bazars of the city are well thronged, but the shops are by no means
equal to those of Buhawulpoor, and the manufactures, except those of
earthenware, are utterly insignificant.
Tobacco, _atta_, _musallahs_, dried fruits, _aloo-bokhara_, figs,
apricots, raisins, salt, sugar, a green fruit something between a plum
and greengage, meat, onions, salads, _dhie_, _sherbets_, _kubabs_, wicker-
work, singing birds, are offered for sale: also abundance of Lucerne and
some _bhoosee_. Altogether it is a busy place, but not so busy as the
road near the gate, which is thronged by followers, and dismounted
Europeans, who are forbidden access to the city without a pass. Tea from
Khiva of good quality is procurable in small quantities. No women but
old ones to be seen. The dress of the inhabitants very often, and in
some cases very completely, approximates to that of the Chinese. The
features too of most are evidently of Tartar cast, and some wear two
tails of plaited hair. Blue seems to be a favourite colour of dress.
The chief trees about the city are mulberry, a few _Khunjucks_, which is
the Xanthoxylon of Bootan and the Kojhlak passes, occur outside; willows
are frequent, and generally appear to be cultivated, among these a
weeping species here and there occurs.
_May 3rd_.--The resources of the city are evidently small, the only
things indeed that appear plentiful are earthenware and milk: grain is
excessively dear, but is reported to exist in considerable quantities.
Khoondil Khan having ordered all those out of the city, who had not
provided themselves with six months' provisions. _Atta_ or flour is now
selling at two seers a rupee, or 6d per pound, and every thing is
proportionally dear: wood excessively so, the chief fuel is derived from
the _Santonia_, which in some form or other appears to constitute a
principal feature of the vegetation of Central Asia, and there is some
other wood apparently derived from some tree I have not yet seen.
Some discontent prevails in the town owing to the high price of
provisions, which is, no doubt, severely felt. The established price of
grain is at the rate of eight seers the rupee, a rate established by the
king, but on occasions like the present there can be no rule. Water is
very abundant, it is to be found within four feet of the surface, and
some regiments have already supplied themselves from this source by means
of temporary wells. The water is excellent.
Asses, ponies, and horses are common, the former are excellent, 150
rupees is a good price for one; they carry heavy loads with the
additional weight of an Affghan on their back; the ponies or tattoes are
less valuable, but still they are strong.
The horses are indifferent; good, generally speaking, but heavy, and with
little spirit. Excellent milch cows have been procured for twenty-five
rupees, including the calf. Goats are not easily procurable. Sheep
(_Doombas_) are common, and afford excellent mutton, they vary in price
from two to three rupees.
Tea from Bokhara is procurable in small quantities; its quality is
decent: it was originally eight rupees a seer but is now thirty. Coarse
Russian cloths, and very inferior silks are also procurable.
The great drawbacks are the want of wood, and above all want of
inhabitants; from what I have seen of the cultivation, the soil appears
to be very capable, and well adapted to barley and wheat; rice might also
be raised as a summer crop. With regard to water, if there is a scarcity
of this element, it is due to the indolence of the people. I have not
yet seen any vestiges of buildings, topes, etc. to indicate that Candahar
has ever been a very populous place, the want of trees considering the
ease with which they may be cultivated, is a strong evidence of the
extreme laziness of the Affghans, who appear to me remarkably low in the
scale of civilization; and in personal habits, very generally
inexpressibly filthy.
Poplars, mulberries, and willows are the principal trees: the poplar is
very much akin to the _Sofaida_ of the Sutledge, it is a handsome tree,
with a fine roundish crown. The fruit trees generally appear small in
gardens; lettuces and onions are commonly cultivated, especially the
latter, fields of Lucerne are very abundant, and I believe clover also; a
pony load of the former now costs five annas, but it is sufficient for a
day's consumption of two or three horses. The pomegranate attains the
ordinary size. In gardens two or three Ranunculaceae, Jasminum, pinks,
sweet-williams, marigolds, stocks, and wall-flowers, are common, with a
broad-leaved species of flag, the flowers of which I have not seen.
The crops vary according to the mode in which they have been watered; if
this has been properly done, they are rich. Some of the fields are
tolerably clean, others filled with weeds, among which a Dipsacea, and
one or two Centaureae are very common.
The villages are not generally defended: each house has its own
straggling direction, is built of mud, and the roof is generally dome-
shaped, and it has its own enclosure within a mud-wall. The houses are
very low, and indicate poverty, and want of ingenuity. The better order
appear always with arched roofs, and none are without picturesque ribs
and recesses.
The vineries here are so well enclosed, that there is no way of access
except by scaling the mud-wall: the vines are planted in trenches; a row
on each side, and allowed to run over the elevated spaces between the
trenches. In one garden pomegranates, a pomaceous tree, and mulberries,
whose fruit is now ripe but quite devoid of flavour, occurred. A
Zygophyllum, a beautiful Capparis, an Anthemis, Marrubium, Centaureoides
2, occurred as weeds, with Plantago, Phalaris, Cichorium.
For an excellent register of the thermometer at this place, I am indebted
to the kindness of Dr. Henderson; the range in the open air is from 60
degrees to 110 degrees!!!
The variations in the wet bulb are due to the currents of air, which
beginning about 11 A.M., pass into a rather constant strongish west wind
about 11.5 or 2 P.M., and even almost become hot. The climate is
excessively dry, as indicated by the effects it has on furniture, etc.
The difference of temperature between a tent, even with two flies or
double roof, and the open air in free situations, is by no means great;
thus when the thermometer was 105 degrees in part of my tent, it was
scarcely 110 degrees in the sun; in Capt. Thomson's large tent 102
degrees; placed against the outer _kunnat_, it rose to 105 degrees.
Hanging free with black cloth round the bulb, 112 degrees. But to shew
the great heating powers of the sun, the thermometer with the bulb,
placed on the ground and covered with the loose sand of the surface of
the soil, rose to 141 degrees.
Black partridges occur in the cornfields here, but in no great numbers.
Much of the cultivation of barley, wheat, and rye, is very luxuriant, but
the proportion of waste, to cultivated land is too considerable to argue
either a large population or active agricultural habits. Pastor roseus
occurs in flocks; it is evidently nearly allied to the _mina_. The
capabilities of this valley are considerable, more particularly when the
extreme readiness with which water is obtained in wells is considered, as
well as the nature of the soil, which is well adapted to husbandry.
Candahar, viewed from about a mile to the west of our camp, backed by the
picturesque hills (one bluff one in particular), the numbers and verdure
of the trees, the break in the mountains on the Herat road, presents a
pretty scene.
_8th_.--The installation of the Shah, which took place to-day on the
plain to the north of the city, was a spectacle worth seeing on account
of the grand display of troops; but there were very few of the
inhabitants of Candahar or surrounding villages present. Mulberries and
apricots are now ripening. Rats, a Viverra with a long body and short
legs, tawny with brown patches, face broad, blackish-brown, white band
across the forehead, and white margins to the ears which are large;
storks were seen when alarmed. Pastor roseus occurs in flocks; magpies,
swallows, swifts, and starlings. There is a garden with some religious
buildings, to which an avenue of young trees leads in a north-east
direction from one of the Cabul gates, for there are two on this face.
The buildings are not remarkable; nor are the trees, which are small; a
few planes (Platanus) occur, the most common is the _Benowsh_, a species
of ash, (Fraxinus) of no great size or beauty. The elegant palmate
leaved Pomacea likewise occurs, with the mulberry: the marigold is a
great favourite.
The fields are now ripening, this being the harvest-moon. Wild oats
occur commonly, although they are not made any use of; the seed is large,
and ripens sooner than any of the others; from the size of the
uncultivated specimens, I am sure that oats would form an excellent crop.
In the fields Cichorium is very common, and Carduacea, Centaurea cyanea,
Dipsaceae, and in certain low places an Arundo, are the most common
weeds; two or three Silenaceae, and Umbelliferae also occur. In the
ditches Typha, Butomus, watercresses, Alomioides, Ceratophyllum, Lemna
_gibba_? Confervae, Gramineae two or three, Ranunculus, Potamogeton, one
species immersa; Mentha, Sium.
On the _Chummuns_, which are of no extent, but which are pleasing from
their verdure and soft sward chiefly consisting of Carex, Trifolium,
Juncus rigidus, Santalacea, and Gentiana likewise prevail.
The fields of Lucerne are luxuriant, but require much water, the price of
which is very dear; one ass-load costs eight annas!!
Iris crocifolia is common in old cultivations.
The city is situated at the termination of one of the shingly slopes,
which are universal between the bases of the hills, and the cultivated
portion of the valley. The ditch is hence shingly, whereas an equal
depth in the cultivated parts would meet nothing but a sandy, light,
easily pulverizable brownish-yellow soil, tenacious, and very slippery
when wet. The tobacco crop is excellent.