_Return of the Mission from Bootan_.
_May 9th_, _1838_.--We left Punukha at twelve, having been delayed
throughout the morning, on account of coolies. We crossed the palace
precints, and the two bridges unmolested. Our road lay in the direction
of our entering Punukha for some time, but on the opposite bank of the
river. We gradually descended throughout this portion. Then at about
eight miles turning round a ridge, we followed a ravine to the west, some
distance above its base, gradually descending to the watercourse draining
it. Thence we ascended in a very circuitous route to Talagoung, the
castle of which is in a ruinous state: it is visible from the place
whence one turns to the westward.
Up to this point, which was certainly 1,200 feet above Punukha, no change
occurred in the vegetation. The country remained barren, the ravines in
favourable places being clothed with underwood, and as we increased our
elevation, with trees. Noticed a Bupleurum, Viburnum sp., Ficus obliqua.
At 3,500 feet, Sambucus, Bupleurum sp., Potentilla as before, Gentiana
pinnata, Serissoides, Campanula.
At 3,800 to 4,000 feet, Pinus longifolia more common though still a
stunted tree; Emblica, Paederia cyaneum, Q. tomentosa, Primula Stuartii,
Parochetus, Pogonantherum, this is a most common grass about here, it
becomes more stunted as we proceed lower, and its extreme elevation does
not exceed 6,000 feet, Acorus very common, Adhatoda!
At 4,000 feet, Simool, Dipsacus as before, Aspidium, Macrodon,
Rhododendron minus re-appears.
On rounding the ridge, although we did not increase our elevation, the
country became more wooded. In some places Q. robur, Gordonia, Pyrus
were common, others and the greater portion were composed of Pinus
longifolia, Bucklandia re-appears at 4,500 feet, Azalea, Saccharum
aristatum, Hedera, Didymocarpus contortus, on rocks.
Towards the nullah we passed a village with some wheat and buckwheat
cultivation; Plantago, Ranunculus, Thymus, were interspersed. Along the
watercourse Symplocos styracifolius, which becomes a middling-sized tree,
was seen, and Stellaria cana, petalis albis profunda partitus, as well as
S. media.
Our section was as follows:
[Section Page 285: m285.jpg]
_Telagoung_ is a middling-sized, dilapidated castle, in which it is
settled the first blood is to be shed in the forthcoming contest, it is
occupied by the old Deb's men. Up to its walls, thickets abound, and the
fragrant rose was very conspicuous.
Its elevation is about 5,600 feet, yet a Ficus may be seen planted by the
side of Cupressus pendula, and Punica thrives. The change in temperature
was very great. Birds abounded throughout; a new sombre-coloured dove
was shot by P.: the most common birds were the orange-billed shrike of
towards Tumashoo.
_May 10th_.--We left Telagoung at 7 A.M. and descended instantly to a
small nullah, from which we re-ascended. The ascent continued without
intermission, occasionally gradually, but generally rather steep for
three or four hours. The descent occupied about as long, and about three-
fifths the distance, following nearly throughout a small nullah.
Woollakkoo, our halting place, is a good-sized village, and fourteen and
a half miles from Telagoung.
To the nullah I observed Stellaria cana, Berberis asiatica, which has re-
appeared, Erythrina, Rubus deltoid, which is very common all over these
parts and whose fruit is palatable, Uvularia, Swertia plantaginifolia,
Caesalpinia, Mimulus, and Urtica foliis apice erosis.
The ascent commenced through woods of Q. robur, the shrubs consisting of
Gaultheria fragrans and arborea, a Myrsinea, Thibaudia serrata, whose
inferior limit is here, Rhododendron minus, but not very common. A good
deal of wheat cultivation and of better quality occurred at 6,500 feet,
assuming Telagoung as 5,600 feet, Pteris aquilina common throughout and
up to 10,000 feet.
At 8,000 feet, Taxus re-appears, with Baptisia in flower, Thibaudia
orbicularis, Luzula of Chindupjee, Smilax gaultherifolia, Thibaudia
obovata, Fragaria vesca, which continues throughout, and has a range of
between 3 to 10,000 feet, Bambusa microphylla, and Acer sterculiacea
appear, woods of Q. ilecifolia, up to 7,200 feet, chiefly of Q. robur,
Gaultheriae two common ones, occur commonly.
At 8,500 feet, the woods composed chiefly of Q. castaneoides and glaucum,
Q. ilecifolia less common. No Q. robur, path-like glades and rather
open, Pythonium ecaudata, up to 9,000 feet, Primula pulcherrima very
common.
At 8,500 feet, Saxifraga of Khegumpa and of Chindupjee, Mitella,! Luzula,
Carex, Viola reniformis, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hedera, Ilex, Mercurialis,
grey lichens.
Taxus, Quercus, Rhododendron, another species foliis subtus ferrugineo-
argenteis floribus rosaceis.
Smilacina, Ophiopogon, Urtica carnosa decumbens, Limonia laureola,
Pythonium ecaudatum.
At the same elevation and indeed below us, but on other ridges, cedars
were seen in abundance: Hydrangea and Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Epilobium
sp. withered.
At 7,800 feet, Aristolochia novum genus, Tritium glaucum, Thlaspi, Arabis
cordata, Loranthus, Symplocos sessiliflora.
At 7,900 feet, Lardizabalea.
At 8,000 feet, Hamiltonia?
At 9,000 feet, Crucifera floribus amplis albis, on mossy banks, with
Mitella, Spiraea densa.
Acer sterculiacea in forests, Cerasi sp. common.
Betula, Ribes, Arenaria, Lilium giganteum, Laurinea, Chimaphila, Acer.
At 9,300 feet, Rhododendron hispida and rosaceum, Taxus, Pythonium
filiformia, Trillium album, Salvia of Royle, Rhododendron ferrugineo and
obovata, Smilacinia densiflora, Sarcococea, Daphne cannabinum, here in
flower, Anemone, Prunella, Hemiphragma, Cedar, but rare.
At 9,700 feet, Primula Stuartii in flower lower down, but here quite
past, Corydalis linetta, Viola, Juniperus, Viburnum floribus magnis
albis, Rhododendron deflexa, in flower. Acer: 1, vel. 2, Cerasi sp.
altera, Paris polyphylla, and from 7,000 feet, Iris foliis angustis,
Cerasus apetalus gathered below here a shrub, very common, Osmundia alia,
Berberis ilecifolia and integrifolia, Rosa microphylla, Spinis latis,
Baptisia, Corydalis altior floribus luteis, Aconiti sp., Papaveracea
succo aqueo, ferrugineo hispida, capsula siliquosa, 3-valvis, replis
totidem, stigmata radiata, 5-lobo. Prunella, Betula, Ranunculus minimus,
Carex, Mimulus! Sambucus of below, Salvia of Royle, Polytrichum
rubescens.
From the ridge the view to the south is pretty, the country undulated,
either naked and swardy, or clothed with firs.
Abies spinulosa commences: and is soon succeeded by Pinus pendula, which,
as we proceeded lower, soon became the chief tree; Rhododendron obovata
finely in flower, Lilium giganteum common. Trillium stratum, Ribes
lacineat.
Q. ilecifolia re-appears 500 or 600 feet below the ridge, Pinus spinulosa
common, with a Salix, grey pendulous lichens.
At 6,000 feet, P. pendula, Mespilus microphyllus, Larix, Rumex, which has
occurred throughout, Salvia alia viscosa foliis subhastatis trilobis,
Cycnia, Astragaloides! bracteis subvaginant magnis, Rosa latispina
becomes very common.
At 8,800 feet, Hedera, Hamiltonia re-appears, Galium sp., Juncus, Oxlip,
Clematis, Salix, very common.
At 8,500 feet, a village is seen to the right; Q. ilecifolia is the chief
tree, with P. pendula, Azalea, Baptisia, Pomacea of Rydang, Rhododendron
arbor. minus. Red-legged crow, pine chatterers.
At 8,000 feet, Baptisia continues; all alpine vegetation ceased;
Rhododendron minus continues, Q. ilecifolia, but no Corydalis, Anemone,
Iris, etc. although Oxlip does; Salix continues.
The descent to the halting place is marked by return to the old
vegetation indicated by re-appearance of Elaeagnus fragrans and Rosa
tetrapetala, Valeriana violifolia.
Baptisia rotundifolia and oblonga, this last a tree very common, Pinus
pendula chief tree, Pomacea celastufolia, Elaeagnus fragrans, Rosa
tetrapetala, very common along the nullah, Baptisia continues low down,
as Oxlip, Stauntonia alba, Viburnum, _Asteroides_, Jasminum luteum,
Tussilago, Spiraea bella, found about the level of this.
All the monocotyledons have a defined elevation; Smilacina cordifolia is
the lowest, except Uvularia, Lilacineae and Trillium, are the highest,
not being found much under 10,000 feet. There is an Osmundia likewise on
the ridge, the fronds below are not contracted, it is
ferrugineo-tomentosa. Hemiphragma has a wide range, between 6 and 10,000
feet: Salvia nubigena of Royle, confined to 10,000 feet, Aconitum,
Corydalis lutea, lenella and caerulea, Prunus penduliflora, Papaveracea,
Juniperus, Rhododendron obovata, Silacinea, Cerasus apetala, Ribes 2, are
sure signs of elevation.
If the Mimulus be the same as that from Punukha, it has a very wide
range, as also Lilium giganteum, Pythonium filiformeis, limited, as well
as ecaudata, Crucifera, Anemone, Laurinea, Polytrichium, were all
definite. Mitella ranges between 9 and 9,500 feet, it is strange that
the chief variety in vegetation occurred on the Telagoung side, on which
springs are rare. No Thibaudias occurred on the other side, Euphorbia
was confined to the Woollakkoo side, as also Primula, etc. etc. The
chief cultivation about Woollakkoo is of wheat, but from the mode of
cultivation the plant is evidently adapted for irrigation; rice is also
cultivated. This is perhaps its maximum height. The hills around are
covered here and there with snow, and must therefore be above 10,000 feet
high. The highest were to the north-west.
The river is of moderate size, fordable in most places, but still well
supplied with wooden bridges. Fish, in shoals too, were seen here and
there.
_May 11th_.--Our march continued down this river throughout: we left
its banks once or twice owing to ascending some hundred feet above its
bed, occasionally it spread out, but generally was confined between the
rocks. Its banks in some places were planted with weeping willows. The
vegetation throughout was much the same. The most common plants were
Rosa, this literally abounds, Pinus pendula, Viburnum grandiflora, a
Symphoria! Crataegus 2 species, Mespilus microphyllus, Lantonea, Jasminum
luteum, Berberis asiatica and obovata, Plectranthus canus, Elaeagnus
fragrans, Stellaria cana, Colquhounia, _Indigofera_ sp. altera, Baptisia
did not re-appear, Euphorbia continues, as does the Celastrus noticed
yesterday, which commences at 8,500 feet.
Cycnia re-appears, it is in fruit, the cotyledons are not conduplicate.
In the fields Stachys, Potentilla (common), Brumus, Lamium of Khegumpa,
Cynoglossum, Thlaspi, Datura in waste places, Conaria, rare, Imperata!
Scabiosa of Bulphai.
A low shrub abounded on the road sides and walls, having all the
characters of Plumbago, a Lantonea likewise abounded, Fragaria, Swertia,
Taraxacum, Cardamina lilacina, Herminu sp., Marchantia, Astragalus,
Ranunculus; Carex, Potentilla supina, Potamogeton, Clematis grata,
Poplars were seen; of these, Taraxacum very common. Quercus robur re-
appears towards Lamnoo, as well as Juglans and Populus.
Weeping cypresses about villages, Hordeum hexastichum is commonly
cultivated, A. Buddlaea floribus lilacinis noticed yesterday was found,
its range is 8,500 to 7,500 feet, Zanthoxyla here.
A cuckoo was shot; this bird would seem to be as in Europe attended by
the Yunx, at least a cry very similar to that of that bird was heard.
Lysimachia of Punukha, Campanula re-appears.
The most common bird is Lanuis. The sombre-coloured dove too is rather
common. The wheat cultivated here is poor, a good deal of the Bromus
occurs with it. Astragalus is common on the borders of the fields, and
in some of them Ervum, Lamium and Vicia.
The whole upper surface of the column of Aristolochia of Telagoung, is
viscid and stigmatic, and likewise the margins of the depressions in
which the anthers are lodged, it is certainly akin to Rafflesiaceae.
_May 12th_.--Proceeded to Chupcha, our march to, and indeed beyond
Panga, seven miles from Lamnoo, was through exactly similar country. The
hills naked or clothed with firs, the path lay along the river Teemboo
chiefly, but occasionally we met with one or two stiff ascents. On
reaching Panga it was determined to push on to Chupcha, which was said to
be but a short way off; we started, and descended after some time to the
river, above which Panga is elevated about 1,000 feet. We continued
along the river until we commenced to ascend towards Chupcha, this ascent
was very long and rather steep, the road tolerably good. We found
Chupcha to be ten miles from Panga, and 8,000 feet high, the greatest
height we crossed being 8,600 feet, and this day we were told, that all
our climbings had ceased. The road was generally bad, and well furnished
with rocks: in one place we passed from 100 yards along the perpendicular
face of a cliff, the Teemboo roaring underneath, the road was built up
with slippery slabs of stone. The country was generally very pretty, the
scenery along the river being very picturesque. We passed a waterfall of
considerable size, which is Turner's Minzapeeza. After leaving Panga we
came on an uninhabited country, nor did we see more than one village,
until we reached the ridge immediately above Chupcha, 1,000 feet above
this, there is a very large village inhabited by Gylongs, the bare summit
of the hill rising an equal height above it; snow visible to the south.
The greatest distance we descended was 6,500 feet, the greatest height
8,500 feet. The distance seventeen miles, the longest march we have yet
had.
The vegetation was nearly the same up to the time we turned off towards
Chupcha, it was characterized by a profusion of Rosa, among which the
Crataega, Symphorema, (which is less common than towards Woollakkoo,)
Rhamnus, Viburnum grandiflorum, Pinus pendula, Thymus, Cycnium.
In grassy banks of fields between Panga and Lamnoo, Astragalus, Ervum,
Vicia, Aster major, Rumex, Agrostia, in fields Hieraciae sp., Caricia
sp., Lactuca, Bromus.
Salix pendula about villages. After leaving Panga we came on to a place
called Minzapeeza, here Adiantum, Aspidium? Hamamelidea, Cedrela? Rhus,
Galium, Tussilago, Saxifraga ligularis, Valeriana violifolia, Smilax
flexuosa, Aruncus, Sarcococea, Azalea.
Rhododendron minus recommenced after leaving the river towards Panga, a
straggling cedar or two occurred, Populus rotundifol. very common,
Gaultheria arborea.
About Panga, Lithospermum, Oxalis corniculata, Umbellifera, from the
flowers of which _moud_ is made, Rubus, Arabis, Taxacum, Dipsacus.
Beyond the waterfall the Quercus robur became common, forming beautiful
woods, it continued throughout until we re-descended to the river, range
7 to 7,500 feet. In these woods formed likewise by Pinus pendula,
Convallaria cirrhosa appeared, Rubia cordifolia, hispida, Paris
polyphylla, Aralia cissifolia, Mitella, Ribes! Spiraea, Asparagus,
Epipactis, Avularia, Houttuynia! Arum viviparum on rocks, Duchesmium,
Populus oblonga occurred also, Coriaria! Hedera common, Benthamia common.
On rocks along the river, Peperomia, 4-phylla, Populus oblonga, Acer
sterculiacea! Symphoria alia! Indigofera, Salix, Cedrela, Sassafras,
arbor facie, Gordonia, Vitis, Syringa, Serissa, Buddlaea, Sedum on rocks,
Eriophon ditto, Campanula cana, Pinus pendula, Rosa, Convallarium
cirrhosa, Polygonum robustum, foliis cordatis.
The ascent up to 7,500 feet, was marked by similar vegetation: up to this
point the prevailing shrubs gradually disappeared, they were never so
common as about Panga. Quercus robur having ceased, was succeeded by
Quercus ferruginea, which is much like Quercus ilecifolia, and has very
coriaceous leaves, this again at 7,500 feet, was succeeded by Quercus
ilecifolia, Dipsacus up to this, Pteris aquilina, Gaultheria arborea.
At 7,600 feet, Rhododendron oblonga, a most beautiful species, Calyce
discoideo commenced, as also Rhodora deflexa and Rhodoracea ochrolenea,
which is, I think, that I before noticed as R. elliptica, foliis basi
cordatis subtus argenteis et punctatis, Euphorbia occurs also here, as
also the Rosa, Berberis asiatica.
At 8,000 feet, the trees were covered with grey lichens, and assumed the
usual highly picturesque appearance: noticed Primula Stuartii in flower
(Symphoria! ceased), Euphorbia, Gaultheria nummularifolia commences,
Artemisia major, Crataegus odoratus continues, Saxifraga ligularis common
up to this, Ribes commences, Gaultheria of Bulphai, Galum, Hyperici sp.,
Lilium giganteum, Clematis grata, Populus species, do not ascend above
this.
At 8,500 feet, Rhododendron minus, Rhododendron oblonga, ochroleucum,
Coccineum appears, Ribes, Smilax sanguinea, Gaultheria of Bulphai very
common, arborea stunted, Limonia major, Clematis grata! Rhododendron
hispida, Potentilla, Pteris aquilina, Berberis asiatica, Mespilus
microphyllus, Gnaphalium, Swertia, Viola, Patrinum! Elaeagnus fragrans!
Thymus, which ranges from 6 to 10,000 feet, Euphorbia, Pedicularis,
Cycnii sp., Mimulus, Rhodora deflexa, Pinus pendula, Quercus ilecifolia,
both stunted, Pteris aquilina.
The descent to the village was about 500 feet, Arenarium on rocks,
Mimulus, Viola, Rumex, Juncus, Acorus veronica, Anagallis, Pythonium of
Blake, Euphorbia, Pedicularis, Carex, Mespilus microphyllus: pine
chatterers throughout, at least above 7,000 feet.
The summit, which was certainly 9,500 feet, was completely bare: Pinus
pendula ascends a long way.
Chupcha--Hordeum hexastichor in beautiful order, the chief cultivation.
Red-legged crow; larger dove. The form of the country traversed is as
follows:-
[Teemboo to Chupcha: m291.jpg]
At Diglea we had an opportunity of seeing the mode of building in this
part of Bootan; the houses are made of mud, which is trampled and beat
down by men, who perform sundry strange evolutions while so employed; the
mud is beat down in a frame-work; it is from the different layers formed
that the lines seen outside finished houses result. The mode is slow,
but must give great firmness.
_May 14th_.--Ascended to the Gylong village, above Chupcha, and then to
the naked ridge. The village may be estimated as being 8,700 or 8,800
feet above the sea, and that part of the ridge to which I ascended as
9,800 or 10,000 feet. The ascent is uninterrupted up to the village; it
winds through a fine fir wood, after diverging from the road to Panga,
after that it is quite open, scarcely a shrub being met with until the
ridge is surmounted. On turning to its northern face, woody vegetation
becomes pretty abundant, and 500 feet below, woods occur. This is
contrary to what usually happens; the south faces of mountains being
supposed to be better wooded than the others, but in Bootan the
difference would seem to be due to the piercing winds blowing from south,
or up the ravine of the Teemboo. The scenery was very pretty, both in
the woods before reaching the village, and from the ridge: vast
quantities of snow visible to the north and north-east. I ascended to
within 1,000 feet of snow, and I think that at this season, an elevation
of 11,000 feet is required _in open places_ to secure the presence of
snow: it is obvious that local circumstances, such as shelter, etc. may
cause it to descend nearly to 9,000 feet, and it is as obvious that snow
will descend lower down a mountain of 15,000 feet high than one of
12,000; the difference in the beds of snow causing a greater reduction of
temperature in the one than in the other. In an isolated mountain, an
elevation of 11,000 feet will be required for the presence of snow in
May.
At 8,000 feet, Baptisia, Viburnum canum, Umbellifera toxicaria,
Colquhounia, Deutzia, the Symphoria of Teemboo.
At 8,200 feet, Salix, Abies spinulosa straggling, Rhododendron
microphylla commences, the bruised has a terebenthaceous odour, Ilex,
Gaultheria flexuosa, Parus major: variegated shortwing, Papilio
machaonires.
At 8,300 feet, Saxifraga ligularis.
At 8,400 to 8,500 feet, Limonia, Viburnum grandiflorum or canum, Berberis
asiatica, Mespilus microphyllus, Populus oblonga, Rhododendron ochrolena,
Clematis grata viola lutea,* Epipactis, Hemiphragma.
At 8,700 feet, Rhododendron microphyllum very common, Ribes, Bupleuri
sp.,* Rosa fructibus hispidis,* Rubia hispida, Sambucus, Berberis
integrifolia, an vero distincta.
At 8,800 feet, Viola pusilla, Fragaria vesca and lutea, Baptisia, Rosa,
Sphaerostemma, Clematis grata, Pinus pendula, etc.
At 9,000 feet, commencement of sward, no trees, except stunted shrubs of
Pinus pendula, Mespilus microphyllus, Baptisia, Gnaphalium Pedicularis,*
Rosa, Bistorta,* leaves with margins not united to the margins of
pitchers of Nepenthes and Cephalotus, Pteris aquilina, Prunella,
Rhododendron microphyllum, Euphorbia, Taxaxacum, Potentilla, Thymus,
Primula Stuartii.
At 9,100 feet, Hyperica brachiata of Moflong.
At 9,300 feet, Morina Wallichiana, Osmundioid, Dipsacus, Scabiosa?
capitulo nutanta, Verbascum, Juncus, Epilobia sp.
At 9,400 feet, Salix shrubby, Cyperus fuscescens of Tassangsee, dwarfed
Larix.
At 9,500 feet, Anemona aurea commences, covering in some places the
sward; it straggles down in favourable places with Iris angustifolia, to
9,300 feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron microphyllum, Gnaphalia,
Euphrasia.
At 9,800 feet, southern face of ridge bare, northern thickety, consisting
of Rhododendron fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis punctato
lepidotis, Salix, Berberis, Pyrus aria, Bambusa, Tetranthera.
In wet sheltered spots, Iris angustifolia, Aconitum, foliis aconitoideum,
on the sward Euphorbia radians. Below this a little, woods commence
chiefly of Bogh Pata, Cerasus, Salix, Rosa fructibus hispidis, Acers,
Abelia? Viburnum niveum, Hydrangea arbuscula, non-scandens, Berberis
integrifolia. The woods are open, the open spaces occupied by remains of
last summer's vegetation, as Compositae, Umbelliferae, Aquilegium, a
plant five or six feet high, folii aconitoidie, etc. Epilobium.
Among these in the woods, Trillia sp., Saxifraga reniformis, Liliacea
Brodidoid, Viola, Primula purpurea, a lovely species, Aconiti sp.,
Papaveracea hirsuta foliis, Aconitoid very common, Orchideae, Ribes
sanguina, Composita penduliflora, Arenaria pusilla of above Telagoung,
Polygoni sp., pusilla repens hirsuit foliis cordata ovatis, vel
reniformibus subtus purpurescent, Salvia nubicola? Euphorbia coccinea.
Abies densa appears, as also close to the Gylong village, from this
elevation upwards, it is common.
Abies spinulosa common on north face at 9,000 feet, Abies pendula ascends
on south side as high as 9,300 feet, but is stunted beyond 9,000 feet, it
does not exist on north face.
Primula Stuartii throughout, very abundant.
The plants most limited were Papaveracea, Aconitum folium aconitoideum,
Saxif. reniformis, Primula purpuria, Euphorbia radians, Rhododendron
cereum, mentioned above, and another at 9,800 feet with similar leaves,
but normal flowers, Abelia, Cerasus, Trillii sp., Anemona, Iris,
Bistorta, Ribes, A. densa.
The most dispersed are Euphorbia coccinea, Salix, Bogh Pata, Mespilus
microphyllus, Cyperus fuscus, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron
microphyllum.
Hordeum hexastichum gives fine produce here; nothing can exceed it in
appearance, oats also occur mixed with it, but is not sown, at least, it
occurs rarely on walls, Arabis, Magus stolonifer, Juglans in villages,
(Ribes Juniperus in the Gylong village), Acorus, Carex, Stellaria cana,
Media, Caltha, and Thlaspi.
The temperature is delightful, thermometer 46 degrees at 7 A.M., 52
degrees in the middle of the day.
_May 15th_.--Left Chupcha for Chuka, distant seventeen miles. Our
march commenced by a very steep and indeed almost precipitous descent to
the nullah, at the foot of Chupcha, of 1,800 feet. Thence we ascended
gradually until we reached a temple visible from Chupcha, at which place
we returned to the course along the Teemboo. The remainder of the road
undulating, varying in level from 6,000 to 6,500 feet, until we commenced
the descent to Chuka, which was long and tedious: we reached this at 5.5
P.M. The road latterly was very bad, we passed Punukha, a small village,
about 300 feet below our path. The mountains closing in the Teemboo
continue lofty, at least 9,000 feet. Iris, cedars, and Abies densa, were
common on the loftier parts.
We passed some beautiful places, indeed the march throughout was pretty.
The vegetation was beautiful, owing to the quantity of water on the road,
a stream occupying each hollow, round many of which we wound. Glades and
pieces of green sward were not uncommon.
The Lamium of Bulphai is found about Chupcha. On the descent to the
nullah the following plants were found.
At 7,000 feet, Iris commences, with a species of Lychnis, ground bare and
rocky, Umbellifera cana, Umb., from which _moud_ is prepared, common.
At 6,800 feet, Quercus ferruginea commences, on rocks here Stemodium
ruderalis, Santonica of Panga, etc., Convallaria cirrhosa.
At 6,500 feet, Hedera common, Aristolochia tetrarima, Berberis obovata,
Viburnum caerulescens, Filix ferrugineo tomentosa, Pteris dealbata.
Iris common to 6,500 feet, continues lower down, but scarce. Along the
nullah, which is a middling-sized torrent, Rhus, Cederela toone, Acer
sterculiacea, Hamamelis, Fici sp., scandens, Rhus, Juglandifolia! Populus
oblonga, Sassafras, on the ascent to the temple, Populus of very large
size, and the above trees. Fraxinus floribunda, Osmundia in profusion,
Aristolochia tetrarima, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Prunella, Fragaria vesca,
Duchesnum, Sarcococea, Elaeagnus fragrans, Galium of Panga cascade,
Corydalis, which continues to Chuka, but is scarce below 5,000 feet,
Deutzia, Lilium giganteum, Uvularia very common, Primula Stuartii,
Woodwardia (scarce), Pythonium pallidium, Campanula cana, Panax herbacieae
2 species, Rhododendron agaleoides of ridge above Chupcha, Buddlaea cana,
Ranunculus of Taseeling, Benthamia, Anemona ranunculacea, Buxus,
Delphinum sp.? common, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Jasminum lutium,
Conaria. This ascent was about 500 feet. Long-tailed pie seen here, red-
billed shrikelet, first met with towards Tumashoo, common now as far down
as 4,500 feet.
On passing the temple, or rather before coming to it, we changed the
vegetation which became of the ordinary _dry_ character. Woods of Q.
ferruginea mixed with Pinus pendula, Benthamia, Pteris aquilina, Viburnum
caerulescens, Conaria, Polygonum of Teemboo, Rhododendron minus,
Gaultheria arborea.
The remainder of the march consisted of a series of winding round spurs:
at about an average elevation of 6,000 feet found a Pythonium foliis
pedalis, spad. apice filiformo recurvo, vel erecto, spathe viridi,
Didymocarpea odora contuso terebinthaceo, Solanum nigrum, Succulent
urticeae, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Gnaphalium, Polygonum globiferum, Scirpus
eriophorus, Hippocratia angulata, Mitella, in damp spots, Cycnium, but
rare, Sarcococea, Impatiens two species, one at 6,500 feet, with a
creeping plant, foliis ranunculaceis floribus solitariis hypocrateriform
albis. No Buxus or Delphinum was observed, in any other glens than the
first crossed. Alnus became common soon, the pines disappeared, Osmundia
common, Primula rotundifolia, Paris polyphylla, Bletia as of Churra at
Punukha, Sphaeropteris.
In some places Rhododendron minus common, and with it Quercus ferruginea,
Rubia hirsuta, not uncommon throughout as far as 15,000 feet,
Thalictroides majus, Houttuynia, Betula.
In glades, Smilax gaultherifolia, in a wood round the marsh a Pomaceous
tree: on the march, Swertia, Peloria, Carex stricta, and of Chupcha,
Spiranthes rubriflora, Berberis pinnata, Saxifraga of Bulphai occur here.
Still further on, the forest assumed the appearance of those towards
Khegumpa. Q. robur, recommences, cedars straggle down; Pinus pendula,
more common, Arenariae sp., Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hottoneoides
ranunculofolia common, Luzula, Sedi sp., Sambucus common throughout in
shady spots, Radsurae sp., Daphne papyracea, rare, Acer sterculiacea
common, Sabia, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Hamiltonia, this last common to
4,500 feet.
On wet rocks Hutchinsia, Arenaria, succulent Urticea. In woods
Cucurbitacea cessifolia, Ajugae sp., Polygonum rheoides. On open spots,
Benthamium in flower, Gaultheria arborea, here of large size, pines cease
without changing the elevation, Q. ferruginea ceased, this is limited to
dry spots.
The first change indicated by the appearance of Laurineae, and Symplocos
among oaks and chesnuts. The woods continued thick for some time, but on
commencing the descent, which is gradual, especially at first, Q. robur
is common, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus.
At 5,500 feet Hottonia, Rubia hirsuta, Hydrangeacea calyptrata,
Phytolacea, also at 6,500 feet, and as low as 4,000 feet, Senecio
scandens, Verbenacea of Dgin appears, Uvularia, Duchesnia, Polygonum
rheoides.
Umbellifera gigantea, Potentilla supina appear, Pythonium recurvum, Rhus,
Dipsacus of Churra, Alnus, Pomacea macrophylla, Stauntonia angustifolia,
Photinea parviflora, Benthamea disappears, in flower at least,
Didymocarpea, Rhamnus, and also at 5,000 feet, Fragaria vesca, in fruit!
Paris, Curculigo pygmaea appears, Sedum continues and ceases at 4,500
feet, Ranunculus of Taseeling found also as low as 3,600 feet, Daphne
nutans appears. This found first near Taseeling, found as low as 4,000
feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron minus, Viburnum caerulescens
continue, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Rubus deltoideus appears.
At 4,500 feet, a Malvaceae Sidoides, Erythrina, Rosa fragrans, Pythonium
sp. majus, spadicis apice filiformi 2-pedali, Incerta of Taseeling,
Ribesioides, Quercus ferruginoides, Indigofera major, Berberis obovata,
in fruit.
At 4,400 feet, Cuscuta, Hamiltonia, Hottoneoides, Daphne pendula vel
nutans, Impatiens, Mimosa, Menispermum tropaeolifolia, Celastrinia sp.,
Panax crucifolia, Hypericum japonicum.
At 4,300 feet, Conyza nivea, Q. robur, Indigofera major, of Tassgoung,
etc. Gaultheria arborea, Hedychium appears! Buddlaea of Nulka, Maesa
salicifolia!
At 4,200 feet, Thibaudia lanceolata appears, ranges between 4,200 and
2,000 feet, Sanicula, Cynoglossum, Zyziphi sp.
Along the bed of the river, Zizyphus arborea, Urtica, foliis apicae
erosis, Berberis obovata, Erythrina, Artemisia major, Elaeagnus fragrans,
and Stellaria cana, occur, the last ranges between 3 and 6,000 feet,
Thlaspi, Polygonum globifera, Dendrobium pictum, Verbenacea of Dgin,
Clematis, petiolis basi connatis demum induratus majus, Magnolia, Randia
of Punukha, Liriodendron tulipif., Apocynum nerufolium.
At Chuka, Ficus elastica, but not flourishing, Musa, Salix pendula,
Phytolacea, Buckwheat, Crucifera cordifructus, Sanicula, Stellaria cana,
Thibaudia lanceolata, Cynoglossum, Vandea, Parkioides common.
The most limited plants are Iris, Silene, Aristolochia tetrarima vix
infra 6,000 feet, Buxus, Delphinioid, Fraxinus non infra 6,000 feet,
Epipactis ditto, Hutchinsia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Mitella, Carex stricta
of Chupcha, _Petunia_, Smilax gaultherifolia, Osmundia non infra 5,500
feet, Hydrangeacea ditto, Cucurbitacea cissifolia, found about Suddiya,
etc.
The most diffused, Hottonia, Q. robur, Gaultheria arborea, 5 to 3,500
feet, Corydalis.
The subtropical forms, Mimosa, Impatiens, occurrence of fleshy Urticea,
Ficus elastica, but not flourishing, Musa, Salix pendula, Buckwheat,
Urtica urens, peaches, Stellaria cana, Crucifera cordifructus, Panax
curcifolia, Andropogon arbusculoid, Rubia cordata.
_May 16th_.--The fort of Chuka not being whitewashed, is not
conspicuous: its situation is strong, and against Bhooteas would be
impregnable. It occupies a low hill arising from the centre of the
valley, one side of which is washed by the Teemboo or Tchien-chiw. The
room we were lodged in was a good one. The village is a mean one, and
consisting of three or four houses.
We crossed the river by a suspension bridge much inferior to that of
Benka, and then rose gradually and inconsiderably, following the Teemboo.
To this we subsequently descended by a most precipitous road built for
the most part on the face of a huge cliff: we reached the Teemboo at its
junction with a small torrent; the tongue of land here was strewn with
huge rocks, and bore evidences of the power of the torrents, for it
evidently had been once a hill, such as that we had just descended.
Thence we continued ascending, following the river, from which however we
soon diverged to our right, but not far. The road was rugged beyond
description. As we approached Murichom, it improved somewhat, but was
still very bad. We reached this place which is visible for some distance
at 5 P.M.; the march being one of eighteen miles. No villages occurred
en route. The hills were densely wooded to the summits and much lowered
in height than those to which we had been accustomed. Passed two
waterfalls, one less high, but more voluminous than the other, is the
Minzapeeza of Turner; both these occurred on the left bank of the river.
Minzapeeza, is a fall of great height, but the body of water is small.
The vegetation to-day partook much of the subtropical character, almost
all boreal plants being left behind. We ascended and descended between
3,000 to 4,500 feet near Chuka, Parkioides, Mimosa arborea! and M.
frutex. Magnolia! Rubia munjista, Impatiens! Cucurbitacea!
Oxyspora latifolia! Rosa fragrans, Incerta ribesioides, Piper! Urtica
heterophylla! Wendlandia! Phytolacea, Daphne nutans, Rottleria! Curculigo
orchediflora, Acer, Eurya pubescens, Rhus, Alnus! Adamia, Gordonia! Q.
robur reappears at a lower elevation than before seen: Dipterocarpioides
arbor vasta trunco ramoso! Smilax auriculata! Pothos pinnatifid! Briedlia
oblonga! Corydalis, Dipsacus, Acanthaceae common, Rubiaceae of a tropical
character, such as Ophiorhizae; Celastrus! Pythonium majus, Tetranthera
macrophylla! Quercus coriacea! Gaultheria arborea scarce, Deutzia on the
descent to the Teemboo, Macrocapnos, Sterculia platanifolia, Melica
latifolia! Arundo! Achyranthes densa! Labiata spinosa of Khegumpa or
Phlomis, Labiata, Quercoides. The rocks on the river side are covered
with Epiphytical Orchideae; Saurauja sterculifolia, Pythonium pallidum,
Elaeagnus fragrans.
Along the banks of the Teemboo, Pandanus! Rhododendron azaleoides, R.
pulchrum, Lyellia, Begonia picta, Composita arborea! Ficus! on ascent
above its banks, Dioscorea! Elaeocarpus! Acrosticum atratum! Convallarium
oppositifolia, Thibaudia loranthiflora! Pogostemon of Dgin! Leea! The
only northern plant a species of Viola; Otochilus linearis! Entada!
Kydia! Mussaenda! Macrocapnos altera of Yen, Callicarpa arborea! Panax
aculeato palmiformis supra decompositae of Dgin! Solanum farinacium!
Urena lobata! Marlea, Panicum plicatum! Before ascending to Murichom we
made two descents to two streams, crossed by common wooden bridges: that
nearer Murichom being the largest; elevation at 2,500 feet. Here tree-
fern; Pythonium majus, Duchesnia, Lysimacha, Begonia of Punukha!
Caryophyllea scandens, Urtica gigas! Modeceoides exembryonata! Commelina!
Combretum sp.! Baehmeriae! Piper spica caudata pendula and another
species!! Euphorbia! Galina of Panga, Croton malvifolius! Bambusa major!
Bauhinia! Engeldhaardtii!
Although we subsequently ascended 1500 feet, very little change occurred:
no re-appearance of tropical forms, Sterculiacea novum of Moosmai,
Adamia, Volkameria! serrata, Triumfetta mollis! Briedlia ovalis of
Chilleeri! Gortnera! Corydalis! Hydrangeacae! Melastoma malabathrica!
The march was very tiresome, some of the ranges passed were high and well
clothed with firs. Those marked thus* are subtropical or tropical, and
one glance will show their predominance: only Corydalis straggles down.
The woods were in many places damp, in others dry: it was obvious that
less rain had fallen between Chupcha and Chuka, than in other situations:
a large proportion of Laurineae and Acanthaceae appeared in the woods,
with Gordonia: the oaks and chesnuts when they did present themselves
bore a tropical form, pointed out by their coriaceous undivided or merely
serrated leaves. I certainly never saw such a predominance of tropical
forms, at such an elevation as 3,500 or 4,000 feet.
For Lyellia I had been hunting for three years, but never thought of
looking for it at low elevations; as it was I believe given out to be a
native of high places. Of birds, Bucco, Picus intermedius, green pigeon,
azure shrikelet, occurred.
_May 17th_.--Murichom is a small village of eight or nine thatched
houses, it is well and prettily situated: about it maize and wheat are in
cultivation, Ficus, Hoya, Dendrobium, Croton malvaefolius, Meliacea,
Cedrela Toona, orange, Verbesina, Datura, Artemisia major, Echites, in
fact it would be difficult to point out an elevational plant. The same
remark applies to the march to Gygoogoo, distant twelve miles, and
situated 500 feet below the road, but still it is about the same level as
Murichom. The march commenced with a steep descent, followed by a
steeper ascent, then winding along, in and out, at an average elevation
of 5,000 feet. The road was very bad, rocky and rugged as usual, P. and
B. passed the village, and pushed on to Buxa, a distance of twenty miles,
which place they reached at 7 P.M. At Murichom, Ficus cordata, fructibus
pyriformibus, Clerodendron infortunata, Adamia, Spilanthes, Melastoma
malabathrica, Bignonia, Pentaptera. The Oollook or Simia Hylobates, of
Upper Assam.
Scarcely any thing worth noticing occurred; the vegetation being
precisely the same. No oaks or chesnuts, at least comparatively few:
Elaeocarpus, Rhus, Gordonia are the most common trees; Pythonium common,
Hoya rotundifolia. Gygoogoo, a small village of two or three houses, was
passed.
_May 18th_.--Marched to Buxa, ascending from Gygoogoo over a wretched
rocky road, winding in and out. No water was to be had until we reached
a ridge from which to Buxa is one continued descent. This ridge is
between 5 and 6,000 feet, and yet there is scarcely a change in the
vegetation. Pythonium abounded, especially P. majus, which literally
occurred in profusion. The trees towards the top of the ridge were
covered with moss, but all appeared subtropical; a few chesnuts, E.
spinosissima occurred, Bambusa nodosis, verticillatis, and spinosis.
En route thither, Pholidota imbricata, Thib. loranthiflora, Aralia
terebinthacea, Rottleria foliis peltatis, Ranunculus of Taseeling,
Meniscum majus, Byttneria ferox, Caladium foliis medio discoloratis
saepius atratis, Gnetum, Ixora, Choulmoogra, Phlogacanthi sp.,
Corisanthes of Sudya, Acer platanifolia, Croton foliis oblongis
irregularis dentato-lobatis occurred before, between 2,500 to 3,500 feet,
Calamus, wild plantains as before, Gordonia, Rhus, Mimosa, Rottleria,
Wallichia, Sida cuneata, Tradescantia cordata, AEschynanthus fulgens, et
altera, Tupistra, Lobelia baccifera, Costus, tree-fern, as high as 5,000
feet, Bambusa fasciculata; of birds, the large Bucco.
At 5,000 feet, Thibaudia serrata, and on this side, as low as 2,500 feet,
myrtifolia, Gordonia, Pythonium majus and medium, cinnamon, Piper, Acer
platanifolia, Mucuna, Angiopteris, Saurauja ferruginea.
At 5,300 feet, Polygonia pinnatifolia, Hookeria macrophylla, Aralia
scandens, etc. as before.
On descent nothing remarkable, except steepness: same vegetation.
Pythonium majus not below 3,000 feet, Guttiferae at 3,000 feet,
Acanthaceae, Carduaceus 2,800 feet.
At 2,500 feet, Buchanania undulata, Hyalostemma undulatum, Roydsia.
What can be the cause of this tropical elevation at such altitudes? Buxa
is hot enough for any tropical plants, as jacks, mangoes, Cactus, etc.
are found in fine order. It is not attributable to a gradual rise, as
the ascent from this to 5,500 feet, is excessively steep. It must be
owing to local causes modifying the climate: at 5,000 feet on the Dgin
route, there are many elevational plants, indeed more than of
subtropical.
It must not be forgotten that no Pinus longifolia exists on this route
after leaving Telagoung.
Buxa is a rather pretty place, but as usual poor: the Doompa's house is
the only decent one in the place, the others, amounting to eight or ten,
are common huts. The big house occupies an elevation in the centre of
the pass, being cut off from the neighbouring hill on either side by a
ravine, one of which is now quite dry, the other affords a scanty supply
of water. The hills are covered with jungle, the only clearing being
about Buxa, and this, except the flat summit of the hill, is overrun with
bushes, Capparis modecea, Croton malvaefolia, Menisperma tropaeolifolia.
Bergerae 2 species, Ixora, Brucea same as of the plains, Atriplex,
Tournefortia of plains, Maesa macrophylla, Mimosa scandens, Ficus
elastica in good order, jacks, mangoes, oranges, plantains,
Tabernamontana, Calamus, Cedrela Toona, are found.
Black pheasants, Bulbuls, Drongoles, Oorooa, Bucco, green pigeons. Long-
tailed blue-crested shrike, etc. are found here. The Doompa, or Chong
Soobah, is a man of no rank, and the place itself is of no importance,
except as the pass or entrance between the mountains of Bootan and the
plains of Bengal.
The descent from Buxa is gradual at first and not unpicturesque: after
passing a small chokey about half a mile from Buxa, sandstone of a coarse
nature commences. The descent is very steep, and continues so until
within a short distance of a place called Minagoung, at which the
bullocks are unladen at least of heavy baggage. The remaining descent is
very gradual, and continues so for several miles. The march throughout
and until the level of the plains is reached, was through tree jungle.
The underwood being either scanty or consisting of grass.
On reaching the plains, the usual Assamese features presented themselves,
viz. vast expanses of grass, intersected here and there with strips of
jungle. Reached Chichacootta about 3 P.M.: distance eighteen miles, of
which about fifteen were over either level or very gradually sloping
ground. No villages occurred, and only one path struck off from the Buxa
one. We passed two or three halting places.
The vegetation throughout was subtropical. At the same elevation as
Buxa, noticed Cassia lanceolata, Torenia the common Leucas, Bheir,
Solanum quercifolia, Banyan, Alstonia, Styrax, Caryota, Elephantopus,
Osbeckia linearis, Herminioides, Wedelia scandens.
At 1,500 feet, Celastrus guttiferoid, Malvacea digyna, of which I found
flowers on the path, Koempfera terminal, Antidesma, Anthericum, Echites
arborea, Careya, Mimosa scandens, Pavetta, Rubiacea alia, Lepidostachys,
Lagerstroemia grandiflora, Leea crispa, Costus, Thunbergia grandiflora,
Gordonia, Commelina, Phyllanthus, Briedlia, Dioscorea, Cassia fistula.
As we approached a lower level, the same plants continued: a Dillenia
very common, Urena lobata, Hedera terebenthacea: the root is in some
cases like figs, Spathodea, Nauclea, Sterculia carnosa, foliis palmatis,
Dalbergia, Panax, Semecarpus, Rhaphis trivialis, Cymbid. alvifolium,
Sarcanthus guttatus common, Apocynea fauce, 10-glandulata, Ixora, etc.
Saul was not common, nor did I see one tree of any size; it commenced
about the margin of the Toorai.
Among the grasses forming the underwood of the Toorai and the grassy
masses clothing the plains, Sacchara were the most common and the most
conspicuous: next to these a species of Rottboellia. Sciurus Bengmoria
occurred, Hemarthria, Greweia edulis, Leea crispa, Crinum in the Toorai,
Viburnum of Sudya, Millingtonia pinnata, Volkameria serrata, Labiata
Sudyensis, Mussaenda erecta, humilis, Cinchona, Premna herbacea, Phoenix
pumila.
Arrived at Chichacootta, a small village, situated in an open grassy
plain, miserably stockaded; and lodged in a good well elevated house. The
following day started and reached Cooch Behar territory, after crossing a
considerable but fordable stream. The contrast between the desolate
territories of Bootan, and the sheet of cultivation presented by Cooch
Behar was striking.
The same contrast continued until we reached the Company's territories,
and its less cultivated portions along the bed of the Brahmapootra. The
only plant worth notice on the route, was a species of Swertia; the
vegetation being almost precisely the same as in Upper Assam.
_Rangamutty_, _Bhooruwa_.
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