CHAPTER XII.

_Continuation of the journey in Bootan_.

The following table affords the result of observations made with the view

to determine the relation between temperature and altitude, in these

parts.

Difference of Difference of Value in height of

Temperature Elevation 1 degrees of Temperature

Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr. 1,222 feet 94 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 406 = 01-5/10

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,110 = 85-5

Khumna and Nulka, 16 = 1,516 = 89-3

Monass and Nulka, 9 = 816 = 90-6

Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2,332 = 89-9

----------

6)550-8

----------

Mean value of 1 degrees of Fahr. as indicated on the barometer 91-8

Second series of observation

Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr.1,193-4 feet 91-8 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 367-2 = 91-8

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,178-1 = 90-6

Khumna and Nulka, 17 = 1,557-0 = 91-10

Monass and Nulka, 9 = 826-2 = 91-8

Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2,386-8 = 91-8

----------

6)549-8

----------

91-6

The Monass is called Goongree by the Booteas; its bed is very much

inclined, and tranquil pools are of rare occurrence: it is not fordable

in any place, although many of the rapids are not very deep. The

singular bridge is said to be of Chinese construction, and that it serves

the purpose of a chief thoroughfare, is a proof of the extremely small

population of the country.

Onions grow at Nulka, plantains, sugarcane, tobacco.

Bheirs are common. Weeping cypress occurs, but stunted.

The entrance to this village on the north-side, is through a square

building, the ceiling of which is painted, and the walls decorated with

figures of deities, white and red.

[Koollong Bridge: p230.jpg]

_February 6th_.--We descended immediately to the Monass, keeping along

its banks throughout the greater part of the march; rising however, over

one or two spurs that dip into it.

This river varies a good deal in width, its bed, however, is generally

confined, and the stream fierce; occasionally, however it spreads out and

becomes here and there more placid. We continued along its banks,

crossing one or two small streams until 12 o'clock, when we reached a

large torrent, the Koollong, up which we proceeded three or four hundred

yards, but at some height above its bed. We crossed this by a wooden

bridge of similar construction with that over the Deo Panee, and the idea

of which is ingenious. It is nearly fifty yards wide, and about twenty

above the torrent. It is in a bad state, and unprovided with railings

throughout the central level part. The houses into which the inclined

supporting beams are fixed are strong, and built on rock. The fastenings

are altogether of cane, and the whole presenting the appearance given in

the annexed drawing.

Hence we ascended a black, rocky, burnt-up mountain until we reached

Khumna, the ascent amounted to nearly 2,000 feet, and occupied more than

an hour.

But little of interest occurred, in fact I never saw a more barren

country. We passed a small village of two or three houses, and two good

patches of rice cultivation, one just below Nulka, one at Ghoomkhume, the

small village just alluded to.

Pinus longifolia descends nearly to the bed of the Monass, which below

Nulka is about 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. Along this I

noticed Hiraea, Eugenia, Vitis, Jasminum, Paederia foetida, Ficus,

Loranthus, Scurrula, Desmodium, Aerides, Vanda, Flacourtia, Kalanchoe,

Leguminosa, _Vanillidora of Solani mookh_, Ceanothus, Bergera,

Dischidia bengalensis, Leguminous trees, Euphorbia, Bassia, Cheilanthes

of Brahmakoond common, Coccoloba cyanea. In rice khets at Ghoomkurrah, I

found Lemna, Cardamine, Rumex of Khejumpa, Cirsium decurrens, Gnaphalia,

Datura, Simool in flowers; Spathoidea, Oxalis coriculata, Cannabis,

Verbesina.

I observed water-ouzels, bucco, water-wagtails, bulbuls, ordinary and

yellow-rumped.

[Gradient Nulka to Khumna: g232.jpg]

Passed cotton cultivation in two places, one close to the Monass, and one

to the Koollong, both equally bad, and observed Begonia edule, which they

call Sheemptsee, and which they eat.

The road to-day was generally good, overhanging in one place the Monass

at a height of forty yards above, and below scarped precipices. The road

here was constructed or supported artificially. Distance six miles.

_February 7th_.--To Phoollong. Left at 9.5 A.M., and immediately

commenced ascending. The ascent was at first steep, then gradually wound

round the Khumna mountain, which was most barren throughout. The ascent

continued but very gradually until we came near Phoollong, to which we

descended, and then ascended about 1,000 feet. About half-way, and when

we had ascended perhaps 1,000 feet, we came on new vegetation, oaks,

Rhododendra, etc. as before, and this continued improving in denseness

until we reached the village. The distance is five miles, ascent about

1,500 feet, but so gradual, that one would not imagine it more than 800

feet. At Khumna, I noticed Pinus longifolia, Pyrus malus, Achyranthes

dense, Cirrus, Urtica urens, tobacco, Musa, Datura, Artemisia major. Hogs

are fed here in large circular platters made of stone scooped out.

Commencing the ascent, I observed Ficus cordata of Bhamru, Rhus pendula,

Indigofera _elatior_, Conaria, Pteris aquilina, Cerasus commenced at

5,000 feet. Then Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia minor, Conyza laculia,

Rubus deltifolius, Labiata Sudyensis, Acanth. caerulescens.

Quercus robur commenced at about 5,200 feet, but stunted Flemingia

secunda, then Gaultheria arborea, Gnaphalium nivea.

Here there was a high ridge to the right, crowned with a wood of Q.

robur, all the leaves of which had fallen. Myrica, Rhododendron,

Jubrung, Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Cnicus, Clematis cana,

Polygonum rheoides. At a village here, which contained ten houses,

observed Cupressus pendula, Citrus, wheat, Bambusa, then Juncus. Primula

of the Khasya hills. Q. robur abundant, Composita penduliflora, Saurauja

hispida, Equisetum, Rubus caesius, Alnus of Thumathaya, Elaeagnus

spinosus, E. macrophyllus 5,300 feet: Plantago, Coriaria, Erythrina, Rhus

acidum, Cerastium coenum, Dipsacus, Viburnum microphyllum, Rubia

cordifolia, Barleria, Tetranthera oleosa, Hedera, Gentiana, Myrsine,

Blasia, Fleshy urticea, Q. robur, Gordonia, Adamia, Neckera

jungermannoides and laeta, Primula in abundance, Acorus, Calamus, Scirpus

kysoor of Churra, Gram. latifolia, Andropogonoides of Suniassa.

Coming on a well-wooded ravine close to Phoollong, the first I have seen

since leaving Balphai, found Quercus 2, Castanea, Gordonia, Spiraea

decomposita, and S. Bella, Hydrangea, Rhododendron, Thalictrum, Quercus,

Curculigo, Viburnum caerulescens, Indigofera elatior, Gnaphalium niveum,

Sempervivum on rocks, Panicum eleusinoides, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Swertia

major, Alnus as before, Rubus moluccanus, Salix lanata, Primula Simsii,

Phlomoides, Orthodon.

Throughout the march we observed many detached houses on the mountains

forming the right bank of the Koollong, and much cultivation, all of the

terrace sort. Passed one village beneath us about 700 feet, containing

twelve houses, and the one mentioned above; as usual, ruined houses

occur.

Cattle furnished with litters of leaves; a curious low was heard, like

that of an elephant.

Booteas work their own cotton, much of which is cultivated along the

rivers at low elevations.

Higher land, certainly 11 to 12,000 feet high, was visible to the north

side: on this a good deal of snow was visible.

[Gradient Khumna to Phoollong: g235.jpg}

_February 8th_.--Towards the morning it commenced to rain; snow has

fallen on both sides the Koollong: it has fallen on the road we came by

yesterday, and on the hills above to within 200 feet of us, or in some

places to the level of this. Exemption in favour of this place is to be

attributed to local causes. The trees in the neighbourhood are

completely covered with it, and it is said to have fallen here twice

during the night,

The Bootea houses are ill calculated for rain, they leak all around as

indeed might be expected, from the nature of the roofs, which consist of

boards, kept _in situ_ by stones. It would be curious to ascertain the

temperature under which snow does not fall, and if possible the

temperature here and among the snow. In the morning, sleet with a few

flakes of snow fell also, but only occasionally.

Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and steadily too: it commenced

slightly: as the cold increased it ceased to melt on reaching the ground,

and at length all around was a sheet of white. The variations of the

thermometer were considerable and frequent, the wind blowing pretty

steadily from the south-east.

At 10 A.M. 37 degrees Snow commencing.

At 10.5 A.M. 36 degrees South-east wind.

At 10.75 A.M.40 degrees Wind from the north, snow rather heavy.

At 11.75 A.M.37 degrees South-east.

At 12 Noon 35 degrees ditto.

At 12.5 P.M. 36 degrees ditto.

At 2.5 P.M. 37 degrees ditto.

At 4 P.M. 39 degrees ditto.

At 6 P.M. 37 degrees ditto.

At 9 P.M. 38 degrees ditto.

Fine moonlight night. View to the north beautiful; every thing silvered

with snow; the deep and black ravine of the Koollong is particularly

conspicuous, and on some cultivated spots the pendulous cypress with its

sombre head and branches covered with snow, was also remarkable,

altogether a beautiful scene. Larch-like firs were visible 500 feet over

the road leading to this from Khumna.

_February 9th_.--Fine sunny morning: thermometer at 7 A.M. 35 degrees:

at 8 A.M. 42 degrees. Hills around covered with snow. High ridge to

south plainly visible, a good deal of snow visible. Went out at noon

over to the south-east, in which direction a pine wood was visible; this

I ascertained to consist of Pinus or Abies pendula, which has much the

habit of a Larch. The altitude of this above Phoollong is certainly

1,000 feet; snow covered the ground in all sheltered spots. The woods

here are formed chiefly of Q. robur, Q. ilecifolia also occurs here and

there, Gordonia, Cerasus, Rhododendron minus.

Mosses and Jungermanniae abound, and were in high perfection owing to

being saturated with moisture. Polytrichum, Neckera, Brachymenium,

Dicranum, Weissiae, Fissidens, Hypnum, Didymodon, Diastoma, Orthodon,

were found in perfection. The only new plants were a Campanula and a

Chimaphila, which last was found at 7,000 feet. Berberis asiatica

scarcely occurs below 6,000 feet, Hedera. The birds seen were the jay,

barbet, red-and-black-headed, variegated short-wing, large ditto of

Khegumpa, orange-breasted Trochilus, brown Fringilla, green woodpecker,

black pheasant, and small squirrel of Assam was also found.

From the fir wood, Tassyassee was distinctly visible, bearing nearly due

south, distance 10 or 12 miles. Koollong was also seen: all the high

ground between that and Bulphai was covered with snow. The high range to

the south is, I think, the same as that which runs up behind from the

pagoda above Bulphai.

A few plants of the Assam Indigo, Ruellia indigofera, are kept here, and

preserved with care, but stunted and obviously unsuited to the climate.

Montario, our taxidermist, says that it is the fourth plant he knows from

which indigo is procured. First, Indigofera--Second, the custard apple,

_shereefa_--Third, a climbing plant used in Java, etc. probably Marsdenia

tinctoria--Fourth,--?

_February 10th_.--Fine weather: thermometer at 7 A.M. 40 degrees.

Started at 9 A.M., and reached Tassyassee at 3 P.M.; the distance being

nine miles. We continued throughout nearly at the same elevation,

rounding the hill on which Koollong is placed. About three miles from

this we descended about 500 feet to a nullah, which we crossed over by

means of planks, thence we ascended about the same height, and continued

at nearly our former level until we descended to the Koollong, which we

crossed by the usual form of wooden bridge. Thence we ascended 400 feet

to the village, which is chiefly constituted by the Rajah's house, a very

large edifice. The Koollong is still a considerable stream, but appears

to be fordable, at least in the present season.

The vegetation continued the same almost throughout. In ascending from

the nullah above mentioned, we came on plenty of Pinus longifolia, and on

getting still nearer Tassyassee the Abies pendula became more and more

common, until it forms on the opposite bank of the Koollong opposite

this, a large wood; Pinus longifolia disappearing. The hills continue

openly wooded, the woods consisting of oaks, chiefly Q. robur and

Rhododendrons. In the ravines which are thickly wooded, oaks, chesnuts,

Cerasus, Rhododendron arborea, mosses; Panax two or three species, among

which is a new one, _P_. _aesculifolia_, arbor parva armati, foliis 7

digitatis, paniculis nutantibus. Hydrangea, Viburnum caerulescens, and

Microphyllum, Galium, Ferns abundant, Bucklandia likewise occurred here

and there! Tetranthera, Valeriana, Scabiosa, Conaria, Holcus elegans.

In the broken ground before reaching this, Gaultheria nummularifolia,

Primula minor, in crevices of rocks. In some places Erythrina was very

common, Gentiana, Dipsacus, Sedum and Didymocarpus contortus on rocks,

Saccharum aristatum, Salix lanata, Woodwardia, Primula minor, which grows

in shade on the Khasya hills, is found here in sunny wet places. The

scenery in some places is very romantic, and occasionally grand; the

valley of the Koollong being closed far to the north by a high ridge and

beautiful peaks, all heavily snowed. The Rajah's house is visible from a

considerable distance. As we approached, some parts were rugged and

bold. Water abundant throughout.

[Gradient Phoollong to Tassangsee: g239.jpg]

_February 11th_.--Went out at 1 P.M.; descending to, and crossed the

Koollong, then ascending along its banks for about a mile.

The bridge over this is about thirty yards wide, abutting from two houses

of ordinary structure, built on solid rocks: the river is underneath the

bridge apparently of great depth; above it is a succession of rapids, it

is even at this, the driest season, a considerable river. The path leads

in a winding direction either over rice cultivation or on precipitous

banks. I noticed Berberis asiatica, pinnata, a Pomacea spinosa, foliis

spathulatis, Stauntonia latifolia, Hedera, Gaultheria two or three,

Thebaudiaceae, Artemisia major, Erythrina, Primula Stuartii in abundance,

Juncus, Alnus, Myrsina, Prunella in grassy spots, Rumex of Khegumpa,

Daphne papyracae, Peperomia quadrifolium, Spiraea bella, Viola,

Ophiopogon linearifol., Hypericum, Smilax, Elaeagnus, Conaria, Lonicera

villosa, Epilobium sericeum, a common plant in all watery places,

Cardamina Swertia, Viburnum microphyllum. Rhododendrum arborea and

minor, Leucas ciliata, Thistles, Pteris aquilina, Neckerae, Osbeckia

capitata of Churra, Oaks, Catharinea, Xyris, Gordonia, Fragaria,

Potentilla two, Festucoidea, Cupressus pendula.

The greatest acquisitions were a beautiful pink farinaceous ascapous

Primula, and a new genus of Hamamelideae. This plant I have long known,

and called _Betula corylifolia_, as I had only seen it in fruit, and

not examined it; it is found on the Khasya hills at elevations of between

4,000 and 6,000 feet. It will be worth dedicating it to some

distinguished geologist, thereby associating his name with that of

Bucklandia and Sedgwickii.

No fly-fishing is to be had in this stream, nor indeed in any at such

elevations. The Adoee is found, but always keeps at the bottom, the

structure of its mouth pointing out its grovelling habits. The Bookhar

does not, I think, ascend more than 2,500 feet. Water-ouzels,

white-fronted Sylvia occur. Observed for the first time the religious

vertical revolving cylinders, these revolve by the action of water, which

runs on the cogs of the wheel by means of hollowed out trunks of trees.

Flour mills are common here, the grindstone revolves on another by means

of vertical spokes, which are set in motion by a horizontal wheel, and

moved by a stream let on it in the same way.

Funaria heygrometrina abounds in the larch wood here.

This is a very cold place, although 550 feet below Phoollong: it is much

colder than that place: thermometer at 7 A.M. 34 degrees.

Snow still remains on the height around; heavy snow on the lofty ridge to

the north; strong south-east winds prevail here.

[Tassgong from the Koollong: p241.jpg]

_February 12th_.--Tassyassy, which is also called Tassangsee, is a

small place apparently consisting of one large house, belonging to the

Soobah, and some religious edifices, the other houses belonging to it are

scattered about among the adjoining cultivation. The Soobah we have just

learnt is absent at Tongsa, so we have no opportunity of comparing his

rank with that of the Tassgong man. His house is however, much larger;

it is situated on a promontory formed by the debouching of a considerable

sized torrent into the Koollong. The bridge is at the foot of this hill,

which is about 400 feet high: the house is accessible to the north and

west only. Half-way up a high hill to the north-west is a fort! and

between the foot of this hill and the Rajah's house there is a wall with

a tower at the north-west end, and a house at the south-east. In the

afternoon the weather threatened snow, but it ended in very slight rain.

_February 13th_.--Thermometer at 7 A.M. 33 degrees: at 9 P.M. 31

degrees: cloudy. Observed Conyza nivea, Composita penduliflora,

Agrimonia, Stemodia grandiflora, a species of Alopecurus in inundated

rice fields, Fragaria, in the wood, Arenaria, Gymnostomum on the

terraces. An Arabis in cornfields with a Viola, probably V. patrinia,

Gaultheria deflexa and Gerardia of Churra. The fir woods are

comparatively bare of mosses and lichens. Shot an Alauda, a Fringilla,

and a curious climber with the tail of a woodpecker, at least so far as

regards the pointing of the feathers, plumage of Yunx, and beak of

Certhia.

Fine cypresses were seen opposite Tassangsee.

_February 14th_.--Left Tassangsee, diverging from the Koollong at that

place, and following the nullah, which falls into that river below the

Soobah's house. The march was a generally, continued, gradual ascent; we

crossed two considerable streams by means of rude wooden bridges, and the

whole march was a wet splashy one, owing to the abundance of water. Snow

became plentiful towards the latter end. The direction was west, the

distance about seven miles. We passed two or three deserted villages.

We commenced ascending through woods of stunted oaks, Rhododendrons,

Gaultheria arborea. The chief under-shrubs being Daphne papyracae,

Gaultheria fruticosa, Primula Stuartii, Lycopodium of Surureem, Thibaudia

myrtifolia continue, the Alnus of Beesa occurred plentifully along the

bed of the nullah. Spiraea decomposita, Valeriana simplicifolia, Conaria,

Scabiosa, Fragaria, Potentilla, Geranium, Artemisia major, Spiraea bella,

Hedera, Viburnum caerulescens, Q. robur, Crawfurdia speciosa also

occurred.

Ascending, the oaks and Rhododendrons became more developed the latter

being the smaller species, Bambusa microphylla, Gordonia, Sphoeropteris,

Antrophyum trichomanes, Oxalis major! commenced. Larches on the opposite

side, Saccharum aristatum, Gillenioides, Gleichenia major, Hemiphragma,

Abies Brunonis commence.

At 6,500 feet Smilax ruscoides, Senecio scandens, Lilium giganteum. The

Rhododendrons here are large, forming with oaks, open woods, mosses and

lichens, very abundant. Here we came on snow, with it commenced Eurya

acuminata, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Rhododendron fruticosa on ruins,

Pyrus malus, Dipsacus.

At 6,800 feet, Q. ilecifolia, Q. glauca, Dalibarda, Bambusa very common,

Sphagnum abundant, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Quercus ilecifolia larger

and more common at 7,000 feet, Gaultheria nummulariodes very abundant,

Daltonia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Gaultheria flexuosa, Thibaudia acida,

Tetranthera nuda, Lycopodium of Surureem, Primula Stuartii, Hyperici sp.,

also _H_. _moflongensis_, are found up to 7,400 feet, with Hemiphragma,

Elaeagnus spinosus, microphyllum, Juncus, Alnus of Beesa, Saccharum

aristatum.

The village is a ruined one apparently, and never contained more than

four or five houses, situated on an open spot, surrounded by woods. This

spot is covered with sward, a fine Q. ilecifolia occurs about the centre

of the village. Its altitude is 7,983 feet.

The vegetation is the same, Abies pendula, Oaks, Rhododendron formosa,

majus, the other has disappeared, Bambusa microphylla, Thibaudia acida,

Primula Stuartii, Juncus.

[Gradient Tassangsee to Sanah: g243.jpg]

_February 15th_.--We started very early; the coolies were all off by

6.5 A.M. Our march was first over undulating ground, either sward or

through green lanes. We then commenced ascending a steep hill visible

from Sanah, the face of which was covered with sward; at the top of this,

snow lay rather thick, especially in the woods. The ascent continued,

soon becoming very steep, snow laying heavily on the path, until we

reached the summit of the second ridge; thence we descended a little,

soon ascending again very steeply until we surmounted the highest ridge.

The descent from this was at first most steep, the path running in zig-

zags, and being in many places very difficult. About 1,000 feet below,

we came on sward, with wood on the right, along which we descended,

diverging subsequently through a thick wood, until we reached sward

again. Here the coolies who had come up had halted, refusing to go on,

as it was already dusk. Learning that Pemberton and B. had gone on, I

hurried on likewise, expecting that the coolies would follow, and

continued along the swardy ridge, the path running occasionally between

patches of wood, the descent being gradual; the path then struck off into

wood, and the descent became rapid. I continued onward, until it was

quite dark, and finding it impossible to proceed, and meeting with no

signs of B. and P., I determined on returning. I reached the coolies

about eight, covered with mud, the path in the wood being very difficult

and excessively slippery. I had nothing but broken crusts to eat; I

procured some sherry however, and my bedding being up, I was glad to take

shelter for the night under the trees. Next morning on overtaking P. and

B., I found that they had remained all night in the wood without any

thing to eat, and without bedding, and that no habitation was near. We

reached the village about 9.5 on the 16th, fatigued and dispirited.

Nothing was at hand, and we had no meal until 5 P.M. except some tea, and

an egg or two.

Many of the coolies came up late on the 16th, and some have not yet

arrived (17th.) The distance was fifteen miles, to the halting place

about twelve. The amount of ascent about 4,500 feet, and descent 6,100

feet, the road being difficult and very slippery: snow was heavy

throughout, and the elevations between 9 and 12,400 feet; icicles were

frequent. The trees were all covered with frost, and the aspect was

wintry in the extreme; luckily there was no wind, and no snow fell. The

summit of the ridge was 12,477 feet high. No views were obtained

throughout the 15th and 16th; the weather being cloudy and very

disagreeable. No bad effects were experienced from the rarefaction of

the air; we all suffered of course from colds owing to exposure at night,

at an elevation of nearly 9,500 feet; the servants bore it tolerably

well.

At Sanah, the altitude of which is 7,983 feet, (Pemb.) I observed Quercus

ilecifolia, on it Neckerae, Anhymenium, Senecio scandens, Rhododendron

arboreum, majus, Juncus effusus, Swertia, Pendulous lichens, Dipsacus,

Artemisia major, Primula Stuartii, Berberis asiatica, Bambusa

microphylla, Lycopodium of Surureem, Orthotrichum!

At 8,000 feet, Smilax ruscoideus, Senecio scandens, woods of oak and

Rhododendrons, the ground and the trees covered with mosses. Gnaphalium,

Daphne papyrif., Mespilus microphyllus! Gaultheria nummularioides, Spiraea

gillenioides, and S. bella, Hypericum, Gnaphalium lanceolatum, trivenum,

Sambucus! but withered, Tetranthera nuda of Bulphai, Abies Brunonis which

is probably a Podocarpus.

At 8,300 feet, Tussilaginoides of Churra, Primula Stuartii common on

swards with Swertiae, etc. as before, Funaria and Weissia Templetonia

common, Sphaeropterus! Quercus ilecifolia, Abies pendula, Rhododendron

arboreum, majus! Dalibarda, Rubus, Ilex dipyrena! Rhododendron undulatum!

At 8,400 feet, the road running along, and above a ravine, rocky ground

to the right, Eurya acuminata! Composita penduliflora. Thibaudia

rotundifolia, and in a swampy sward a small dwarfed very narrow-leaved

bamboo, Primula Stuartii, Gnaphalium densiflorum, Swertia

monocotyledonea, Prunella in the woods, Salix lanata, and Panax

rhododendrifolia.

Just above this, 8,500 feet, the first Abies cedroides appeared, soon

becoming very common, and extending up to 9,500 feet, its habit is like

that of a cedar, and it is a tall handsome tree, Rubia* cordifolia!

Geranium scandens, Baptisioides.

Crossing a nullah, we commenced a steep ascent, Thibaudacae rotundifolia,

Abies cedroides, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Crawfurdia speciosa, Andropogon,

Gaultheria nummulacifol. Ilex, Epibolium Vaccinium cyaneum! Here a

sward commenced with vegetation as before, the summit of this ascent was

9,050 feet. Here Ilex, Daphne papyracae, Rhododendron, Scleria, Lomaria

of Khegumpa! Primula pulcherrima! Spiraea bella, Gnaphalium trivenium,

Rubus moluccanus, Thibaudia, Ericinea orbiculens, Spiraea decomposita,

Gaultheria, nummulariod., Scutellaria prunella, Gaultheria flexuosa,

Scandent composita, Cerastium bacciferum. The trees covered with mosses,

Neckerae, Dicranum, Daltoniae, Abies pendula ceased, its limits visible

below. Hence the ascent was gradual at first: snow became heavy at 9,100

feet. Hemiphragma, Rhododendron abundant.

At 9,500 feet, much the same vegetation, Abies densa commenced, cedroides

ceased. Woods entirely of A. densa, with a small baccate-like deciduous

leaved tree. Hydrangea! Spiraeacea! Urticeae?! Pedicularis elatior.

At 10,000 feet, some trees all covered with frost; snow very heavy, quite

crisp, Juncus niveus, Cerastium inflatum! bamboos, other plants of 9,500

feet, continue. Old Cretins!

At 11,270 feet, thermometer 39 degrees, the same trees, scarcely any

thing but Abies, Arenoid, Dicranum macrocarpus, Orthotrichum, Lichen

pendulum atratum.

Thence we descended a little, soon to re-ascend.

At the same elevation Parnassia, Epilobium monus, Gnaphalium densiflor.,

Vaccinium pumilum, Gentiana, Polygonum(?)

At 11,000 feet, icicles were common, and snow, very heavy. Woods of some

Abies, a species of rose very abundant, a shrub of four feet high; other

plants continue as before.

From this to the summit the ascent was very steep; Abies continues.

Rhododendron(?) very common, with rose, Parnassia, Saxifraga, Composita

arenoid, Gentiana, Polygonum(?), Pedicularis dwarfed, Triticoides,

Aroides. Many pines dead as if blasted. Summit nearly bare of trees,

which appear confined to slopes, Rhododendron very common, Umbellifera

crassa, figured in Royle, Lilium unifloria.

At 12,000 feet, after descent, commenced Hymenophyllum, Xyris on rocks,

Pyrus at 11,500 feet, Rhododendron ellipticum common, summit strewed with

rocks, Rhododendron pumilum.

At 10,000 feet, the Spilus microphyllus, Polygonum, as well as on ascent

Gaultheria nummularioid., swards abounding with Gramen nardoides(?),

Dipsacus minor, Epilobium parnassia, Swertia, Umbelliferae, Primula

scapigerc. floribus in globum densum, pedalis, Habenariae herminioid.

At the halting place 9,700 feet, Berberis ilecifolia, Daphne papyracae,

Thibaudia myrtifolia, Baptisia, Dipsacus, major, Swertim pedicularis,

Andropogones, Ilex dipyrena, Rumex of Khegumpa, Betula, Euonymus cornets,

Abies cedroides, and Brunonis, Geranium scandens, Pyrus, Hypericum

moflongensis, Hemiphragma, Mespilus microphyllus, Panax rhododendrifol.,

Rhododendron obovatum.

At 9,500 feet, Rhododendron arborea, majus, Abies cupressoides,

Gaultheria nummularioides flexuosa, Thibaudiacea rotundifolia, Primula

Stuartii, stunted juncus.

At 9,000 feet, Q. ilecifolia, Rhododendron undulatum, Primula

pulcherrima, Tetranthera nuda, Chimaphiliae! Andropogons, Rhododendron

arbor, majus, common, which varies much in size of leaves, Dalibarda,

Smilax ruscoideus.

At 8,500 feet, Berberis pinnata, asiatica, Buddlaea purpurea; Eurya

acuminata.

At 8,000 feet, Gnaphalium trivenium, Baptisia, Spiraea, (Gillenioid)

bella, Artemisia major. 7,500 feet, Rhododend. minus arborea, Leucas

ciliata, and woods of Q. robur, as usual deciduous.

[Gradient Sanah to Linge: g248.jpg]

All the plants above 10,500 feet, had perished, not a single one being

found in flower. The descent was so hurried, that it was impossible to

note down more plants; and the same applies to the descent to this from

the halting place. Starvation being to be added to discomfort.

Of Rhododendrons, the species observed, may be characterized as follows:--

_Floribus in racemis umbelliformibus_.

1. R. _arboreum_, arboreum, foliis oblongo obovatis, subtus argenteis.

2. R. _ferrugineum_, arboreum, foliis obovatis, supra rugosis, subtus

ferrugineis.--No. 654.

3. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis oblongis, subtus ferruginea

lepidotis.--No. 652.

4. R. _ellipticum_, fruticosum, foliis ellipticis.--No. 653.

5. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus glaucus

reticulatis.--No. 659.

6. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis lanceolato oblongis, sub-obovatis, subtus

punctatis.--No. 655.

7. R. _undulatum_, fruticosum, foliis elongati lanceolatis, undulatis

subtus reticulatis.--No. 656.

_Floribus solitariis_.

8. R. _microphyllum_, fruticosum, lotum ferrugineo lepidotum, foliis

lanceolatis parvis.

_February 17th_.--Snow has fallen during the night all around, but not

within 1,000 feet of us: this will make the snow line here about 7,300

feet, the village being 6,335 _supra marem_. Mildness of climate would

appear to be indicated by the abundance of rice cultivation round this

place, chiefly, however, about 1,000 feet below. In every direction

ranges of 9 to 12,000 feet are visible: villages are very common,

especially so in a hollow on the western side of the ravine of the

Kooree, in which I counted sixteen or eighteen; one containing between

thirty and forty houses. The space alluded to is one sheet of

cultivation, chiefly rice and wheat. Linge itself is an ordinarily sized

village, containing about twelve houses. The wooded tracts cease for the

most part, about 1,000 feet above this. The face of the country, where

uncultivated, being clothed with harsh Andropogoneous grasses, Salix

pendula, Thuja pendula, Pyrus malus, Erythrina, Quercus, Juncus effusus,

Porana of Churra, Plantago, Barleria, Polygonium rheoides, Stellaria

media, Rubus deltifoliis, Cnicus, Rhodod. arboreum minus, but rare,

Smithea occurs also.

_February 18th_.--Our march commenced by a steep descent on the south

face of the hill, the coolies proceeding by a more direct one to the

north, but which was said to be difficult. We continued descending in a

westerly direction, until we came in sight of the Kooree river which

flows along the ravine, and which is a large stream, one-third less than

the Monass. We then turned to the north following the river, the path

running up, about 800 feet above it. We then came to another ravine, and

descended to the torrent, which we crossed by a rude wooden bridge: then

followed again the Kooree, to the bed of which we descended, and along

which we continued for some time. We then ascended where the banks were

of such a nature as not to allow a path, descending again here and there.

Then we came on the Khoomun, a large torrent, which we crossed by a

wooden bridge about 100 yards above its bed; re-descended to the Kooree,

reached its bridge; and thence descending rather steeply, and for about

one and a half mile to Ling-Ling, or Lengloon, which is plainly visible

from the bridge over the Kooree.

After turning to the north along the Kooree, and indeed after passing the

cultivation below Linge, which chiefly occupies a sort of plateau, we

passed through a most miserable country, the hills being rocky, nearly

destitute of trees, and chiefly clothed with the usual coarse

Andropogoneous grasses, especially lemon-grass, occurred between Linge

and Lengloon.

At 5,000 feet, observed Desmodium, Santalacea australasia, Gaultheria

arborea, Indigofera, as before, Clematis cana, Acanthacea caerulescens,

Pteris aquilina, Viburnum caerulescens, Oxyspora, Panicum eleusinoides,

Anthistiria, Conyza, Ficus cordifoliis of Bhamree, Labiata Suddiensis,

Corearia, Rhus pendula, Airoides major, Flemingia secunda and major.

At 4,800 feet, Desmodium vestilum, stunted, Q. robur, Dipsacus,

Epilobium, Elaeagnus microphyllus, spinosus.

At 4,600 feet, Sedum, Campanula, Osbeckia capitata, Citrus in villages,

Emblica, Artemisia minor.

At 4,000 feet, Paederia cyanea, lemon-grass, Panax, Terebinthaceus, Pinus

longifolia, here and there, Ficus obliqua, Grislea, Cirsium.

At the bed of the torrent 4,000 feet, Bassia.

Over the Kooree, Euphorbia antiqorum, a sure sign of aridity.

Didymocarpea contorta, D. canescens, which differs from the other in

being hirsute, Menispermum, Holcus elegans.

Along its bed, Sedum of Phoollong, Eugenia, Achyranthis, Ingoides

arborea, Aspidium polypodioides, Briedleia obovata; Desmodium of Nulka!

Arundo, Buddlaea neemdoides, Jasminum of Benka, Composita, involucri

squamis ciliatis. Rice fields, in these Gnaphalium aureum, Phleoides of

Tassangsee, but in full flower, Lysimachia majus, rugosus, Oxalis

comiculata, Hieracioid, Composita, Lactucoid purpureseus, Ammannia,

Bidens alba, Drymaria.

Then along the wooded banks, Wendlandia, _Pomacea_? Mimosa arborea,

Camunium, Butea suffruticosa, Pterospermum of Bhamree, Luculia, Ulmus, as

before, Pinus longifolia, Rottlera, Melica latifolia, young plants of Q.

robur on rocks, along with it Goodyera articulata, Urticoid rhombifolia,

carnosa; on rocks up Khoomun, Orthotrichum corcalypta. At the bridge

over this, a Myrtaceous tree and the Simool occur. The plants occur

during the ascent, as in the descent. Water-wagtails, blackbirds,

tomtits, were observed, as also white-pated and white-rumped water-chats.

_February 19th_.--Ling-Ling or Lengloon.

_February 20th_.--To-day we visited the Soobah, who is a young man,

certainly not more than twenty years old, with a good humoured

countenance. The meeting was cordial but unattended with any state, and

judging from appearances only, this Soobah is inferior to the others we

have seen, and especially to him of Tassgong. No armed men were present,

and the whole bystanders scarcely amounted to 100. It was agreed that we

remain here until the baggage, now in the rear, arrives. Tonsa is, we

hear, only four or five days journey from this.

The meeting took place in an open plot of ground below the Soobah's house

and on the skirts of the village, the ground was matted and a space

enclosed with mats: we sat in the open air; the Soobah under a silken

canopy. Altogether he seemed a person of no pretensions, crowds,

speaking comparatively, of priests attended as usual, they were the

slickest looking of the whole, and the greatest beggars. A hideous party

of _nachnees_ were in attendance, and ready to perform any more pleasing

duties they might be required; they were however so ugly, that not much

self-denial was required in declining their offers. They were dressed in

red, with abundance of cumbrous silver ornaments, and dirty leggings; one

was additionally ornamented with incipient goitre.

Sugarcane (but stunted), almonds, or peach, oranges, castor-oil, datura,

pear, simool, may be found here. Oranges are poor enough, the pear no

better. Pinus longifolia, Cupressus pendula, are almost the only trees:

the hills being barren, covered with coarse grasses.

_February 23rd_.--Marched to Tumashoo: our march commenced with a steep

ascent, but which may be avoided by going through the village, it

commenced and continued throughout in the direction of Linge, opposite to

which place we found ourselves on our arrival, but on the right bank of

the river. The highest part reached, before we descended to this

village, was 6,350 feet, or about the height of Linge. The march was

nearly six miles, it was easy, the road being throughout excellent and

apparently more frequented than any we had hitherto seen. Generally we

moved along through open Rhododendron woods, frequently very much

stunted, at 6,000 feet. These were intermixed with Quercus tomentosa.

The only spot well wooded, occurred in the ravines, giving exit to small

streams.

The first ascent from Leng-Leng, gave the same vegetation, scarcely any

trees being visible. Tradescantia clavijera of Churra on rocks, Galium

of Churra, Santalacea, Desmodium vestilum, Indigofera canescens,

Artemisia major and minor, Oxyspora, Luculia, Conaria, Sambucus in wet

places, Lobelia pyramidalis, Spiraea bella and decomposita, Thalictrum

majus, Gaultheria fruticosa, Woodwardia, Saurauja hispida, Rhododendron

minus, and lemon-grass, occurred in the order of ascent.

Turning hence along the ridge at the same elevation, Gaultheria arborea,

Quercus tomentosa, Rhododendron minus, Hedychium, Holcus elegans, Leucas

ciliata. In wet wooded spots Gaultheria duplexa, Bucklandia, Viburnum

caerulescens, Polyg. rheoides, Erythrina, Gordonia, Porana, Neuropeltis

aromatica, Catharinea, Thibaudia myrtifolia, in open massy woods of

Rhododendron minus and Quercus tomentosa, Rosa, Cnicus, Pyrus, Gleichenia

major, Agrimonia occurred at the same elevations.

From one spot seven villages were visible, on opposite bank of Kooree and

between Linge and the Khoomun. A few stunted P. longifolia: one or two

of Abies pendula, occurred 100 feet above the highest point of the

former: at 6,350 feet, woods of the deciduous Q. robur, were observable.

On the descent at 6,000 feet, Mimosa spinosa, Primula Stuartii, Rhus,

Juncus, and others, as before.

We passed several villages, some containing twenty or thirty houses, and

on halting found ourselves towards the edge of the cultivated tract

alluded to, as seen from Linge.

Cattle are here kept in farm yards which are well littered with straw; as

in other places they are noosed round the horns: they are fed, while tied

up, on straw of a coarse and unnutritious description, which they do not

seem to fancy much. Pigeons abound, but they are of no use as they cannot

be caught; they may help to feed the sparrow-hawks, which are generally

found about the villages, and which are very bold.

_February 24th_.--Left at 8 A.M. after the usual trouble about coolies

and ponies. We ascended at first about 1,000 feet, passing over sward

with woods of P. longifolia on either side, crossing the ridge through a

hollow, we then commenced a steep descent to the west, until we reached a

water-course, the elevation of which is about 200 feet below that of

Tumashoo. We then struck off, again to ascend, and continued to do so

until we attained 7,800 feet, from which point we descended gradually at

first, then abruptly to our _mokan_. The direction was nearly west, the

distance 11 miles, the march pretty easy, as the road was good, and the

ascent gradual.

Up to the ravine and indeed throughout, nothing new occurred in the

vegetation. The hill up which we ascended to again descend, was bare,

covered with the usual coarse grasses, Campanula linearis and C. cana,

foliis undulatis, Desmodium vestilum, Santalacea.

In the ravine Gordonia, Photinia, Pothos flammea and another species,

Maesa, Polygonum rheoides, Ficus of Bhamree, and in the khets Hieraceoid,

Gnaphalium aureum, Ajuga, and Veronica occurred.

Up the first ascent and at about 5,500 feet, there was a field of peas,

in very luxuriant condition. Our road lay through open dry woods of

oaks, either Q. robur or Q. tomentosa, principally the latter,

Rhododendron minus, and Pinus longifolia preponderated in some places,

but few trees of Abies pendula occurred.

The march was so far interesting as establishing nearly the limits of Q.

robur, Q. tomentosa and Q. ilecifolia, which last only commenced, and

then in a small state, at 7,300 feet, I should say that Q. tomentosa was

to it the next indication, as well as Q. glauca. But it must be

understood that only full grown trees are now considered. Mosses were

common in the woods on reaching 6 to 7,000 feet, principally Dicrana,

Hypna, Orthotricha, Pendulous lichens frequent; about 7,000 feet, Primula

Stuartii in its old situations between 6 to 7,000 feet, Hypericum of

Moflong, 7,000 feet.

We crossed several small water-courses, along these, the dry woods

ceased, and the usual humid jungle made its appearance; mosses very

numerous.

[Gradient Longloon to Tumashoo: g254.jpg]

The above plants continued throughout, after reaching an altitude of

6,000 feet, the woods consisting of oaks and Rhododendrons.

The route for the most part wound along the course of the Kooree, but

considerably above, we left this track about 3 P.M. on the river turning

to the southward. Linge was in sight nearly the whole day; we have been

six days (including a halt) performing what might with ease be done in

one, for there probably is a road in a direct line between this part and

the opposite bank of Kooree. The small-crested finch, and red-beaked and

red-legged fare occurred, the former is a noisy bird, inhabiting chiefly

woods of Q. robur, the flock were loth to leave one particular spot, so

that we obtained five specimens: the finch occurred at 7,800 feet.

Various temples and walls were passed en route, and a few villages, with

one exception of average small size, were visible in various directions.

_February 25th_.--Our route hence continued for some time at about the

same level, when we descended rather rapidly, until we reached a

considerable stream, the Oongar, which is crossed by the ordinary wooden

bridge; about 200 yards further, it is again crossed by means of a rude

bridge, and the remainder of the march is a steep, long, and unmitigated

ascent. I reached the tent about 5 P.M.; we passed one village situated

near the larger bridge, with this exception the country seemed

uninhabited: very little cultivation was visible in any direction.

The vegetation was the same, for the most part, the drier faces of the

hills being covered, i.e. at about the level of Oongar, with oaks and

Rhododendrons, the wet ravines being more densely, and more variously

wooded. On sward about Oongar, I noticed a Pedicularis, Artemisia major,

Stellaria angustifolia, Berberis pinnata in woods at the same elevation,

Plantago, Crawfurdia speciosa, Rubus deltoideus, Alnus of Beesa,

Otochilus, Gordonia, Lilium giganteum, Bucklandia.

In one spot near this place mosses were very abundant. On one rock I

gathered, Weissioides, Orthodon, Pohlia, Brachymenium bryoides, Weissia,

Bartramioides, Didymodon, Daphne papyrifera, and Eurya acuminata, this

being about the lowest elevation at which I have seen this plant. In

cultivated spots Crucifera, Ervum, and at a temple about a mile from

Oongar, Cupressus pendula, and a juniper, Arbor parva, of aspect scraggy,

trunco laevi, Cannabis, Cerastium canum in cultivated places. The most

common oak was Q. robur. The Jay, larger Brachypodium, which always goes

in large flocks, orange-breasted Trochilus and blackbird, were likewise

seen, as well as the brown finch, which was seen feeding on Rhododendron

minus. On rocky ground I procured a really fine Acanthus, leaves all

flesh-coloured, subscandens, spic. maximis lanato-ciliatis, tetrastich.

on this the black cattle appear to be fed, as large bundles were brought

in at Oongar. In the woody ravines Panax curcasifolia was common, in

these I noticed Cerastium scandens, Elaeagnus, Clematis, Tetrantheroidea

habitu, Sedgewickiae! Orthotrichum pumulum! Phlomoides, and in wet spots

are Epilobium. The descent shewed nothing remarkable: towards the nullah

I noticed Engelhaardtia, tree fern, and Gaultheria deflexa. Obtained a

beautiful woodpecker at 5,000 feet, with the chesnut-pated lesser tomtit,

Yunx, and speckled Brachypodium in woods here; this last has the habit

and manners of the crooked bill of Dgin.

The wood between the two bridges was very pretty and open; the trees

covered with mosses. The ascent shewed nothing remarkable until 2,000

feet had been surmounted, the plants forming the vegetation below this

were Q. robur, Rhododendron minus in abundance, Thibaudia myrtifolia,

Gaultheria arborea, Saurauja hispida uncommon, Viburnum caerulescens,

Conyza nivea, Oxyspora towards the base with paper plant, and Bambusa

microphylla. About 5,000 feet, a Daltonia, D. hypnoides, was found in

abundance both on rocks and trees.

The change takes place about the situation of a spacious open sward; here

the jungle is thick, the trees consisting principally of Q. glauca, which

is a noble tree, with immense lamellated acorns, Pendulous lichens are

here common, Hymenopogon parasiticus, Lomaria of Khegumpa! Berberis

asiatica! Hemiphragma, Gaultheria nummulareoides, Panax Rhododendrifol.

At 7,500 feet, Rhododendron majus appears, the wood preserving the

umbrageous humid aspect, Eurya acuminata, Hydrangea, and about this snow

commenced sparingly, but soon became thick. At 8,000 feet, Rhododendron

undulata, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris. At 9,000 feet, Rhododendron

ferrugineum. The evening now became so misty that it was impossible to

discern any thing; in addition, it was snowing: these circumstances added

to fatigue made me press on for the halting place, before coming to which

I passed through heavy snow.

_Pemee_, where we put up, is a miserable hut, is upwards of 9,000 feet

above the sea, situated on an open sward, now densely covered with snow,

the accommodations being of course very miserable. Icicles of large size

were seen here; and we had nothing but snow for water.

_February 26th_.--Leaving this, we commenced a long and at last very

steep ascent, the snow increasing in thickness as we increased our

elevation, the march commenced with undulations, but soon passed off into

an excessively steep ascent, in some parts indeed precipitous. We

crossed at twelve and a half P.M. the Pass of Rodoola, on which are some

slabs, with mystic characters, but even here the ascent did not

terminate, but continued, although very gradually for perhaps two miles

more. Before coming to the summit, a small hut is passed. The descent

was at first very rapid, then we proceeded along the side of the mountain

for a long way, at nearly the same level through woods of Abies densa. On

recommencing the descent, swardy patches commenced, surrounded by fir

woods, these increased in frequency. At length we reached extensive fir

woods, from whence a valley was visible, percolated by a large stream to

which we descended over open country with beautiful patches of firs, and

at length over extensive swards. I reached the village at 5 P.M., after

a march of nearly nine hours, the direction was west, the distance

eighteen miles. The road was very bad; in one place our ponies escaped

with difficulty, the road having apparently fallen in, and the only

footing being afforded by the thickness of the snow: one pony was saved

by placing branches under him. The highest portion of the Pass near the

peak was good enough. Snow was heavy on the road, until we descended into

the open fir-wooded country, it became scanty at 9,500 feet. The day was

gloomy and misty, for a moment, the sun appeared while I stood on the

summit, disclosing deep ravines, one formed by the valley in which we now

are, surrounded in every direction by equally high land, as that on which

I stood, and certainly not under 12,000 feet. Nothing visible but dense

forests of firs. The highest point crossed was 12,035 feet, estimating

the summit to be 300 feet above the Pass itself, which is so narrow as

scarcely to admit of the passage of a loaded mule.

In the open spot around the hut, Tofieldioid, which continues as high as

10,500 feet, Cerastium inflatum, Labiata species, Conecis, which, as on

Dhonglaila, continues up to 12,000 feet, Dipsacus, Prunella, Gaultheria

nummularioides, Pteris aquilina, stunted, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalium. No

firs were visible, but the trees were so covered with snow, that I was

not able to distinguish them.

At 9,800 feet, along an open ridge, Spiraea belloides, Buddlaea, B.

purpurasae, Khasyanae affinis, Andropogones, Mespilus microphyllus,

Hydrangea, Taxus, Swertia, Gnaphalium, Thibaudia orbicularis commences,

continuing up to 10,500 feet, Brachymenium bryoides, Bambusa very common,

forming frequently the chief bulk of the forest, even up to 10,500 feet,

Acer arbuscula foliis palmatum lobatis!! Pyrus arbor magna fol. obovat.

serratis subtus albus, fructibus cerasi magnitudinum.

At 10,000 feet, Composita penduliflora! Hemiphragma, Lobelioides,

Brachymenium bryoides, Rhododendron minus ferrugineum, arboreum vel

arbuscula, Rhododendron obovatum, foliis subtus albus, Rhododendron

hispidum, Rosa microphylla, Bambusa, Spiraea of former ascent.

At 10,200 feet, Polygonum, Rheum, Hydrangea! Spiraea belloides,

Hydrangea, Betuloides.

At 10,500 feet, Abies densa, but sparingly, Rhododendron ellipticum,

foliis basi cordatis, Hypericum, Rhododendron microphyllum.

At 11,000 feet, no firs: nothing almost but Rhododendrons, R. ellipticum,

and R. ellipticum foliis basi cordatis.

At 11,500 feet, Vaccinium, foliis ovatis spinuloso-dentatis, atratus

fructex pygmaeus repens.

Towards the Pass, the face of the mountain became more and more rugged,

the vegetation more scanty, consisting of nothing but Rhododendrons.

At 12,000 feet, Eriogonum minus, Polygonum, Rheum, Rhodod. microphyllum

and ellipticum foliis basi cordatis.

About the Pass, Trichostomum, _Xyris_, Abies densa, one small plant,

Rosa, Eriogonum minus, Rhododendron microphyllum and ellipticum foliis

basi cordatis.

On the more level ridge between this Pass and the summit, Rhododendrons

still were most frequent, Triticoides umbellifera of Royle, Eriogonum

majus, woods of Abies densa occurred a little below the path, Gentiana

maxima, 4-pedalis folliculis bipollicaribus, Lilium uniflorum, Potentilla

common between this and 9,000 feet, Rosa microphyllum, Juniperus,

Epilobium minus of Dhonglaila, Rheum. Large black crow, Pedicularis,

Saxifraga, Umbellifera alia, Compositae, Spiraea.

At the summit, no woody vegetation was visible, except Rhododendrons; the

firs being confined below.

The descent at first through Rhododendron, then for a long time entirely

through vast woods of Abies densa, most of the larger trees of this are

apparently blasted, it has a tabular form, and very sombre appearance,

and can be recognized even at great distances by its black columnar palm-

like appearance.

At 11,000 feet, Acer sterculiacea, Rosa microphylla, Ribes, which ceases

below 10,000 feet, it is confined to the A. densa woods.

At 10,500 feet, Saxifraga, two species on moist banks, A. densa woods,

small Umbellifera.

The sward commences at about 10,000 feet, and is common at 9,500 feet. It

is clothed principally with the small bamboo noticed in similar places

above Sanah. Berberis spathulata commences. It is with this sward that

a new fir, with a larch-like look, which I call temporarily Abies

spinulosa, commences, and continues down to the nullah, becoming more

abundant as A. densa becomes less abundant, and finally usurping its

place entirely. Rhododendron microphyllum continues to 9,600 feet, at

which point Baptisoidea commences.

The vegetation hence to Bhoomlungtung consists entirely of Abies

spinulosa, intermixed with a species very like Abies pendula, this

appears at about 9,500 feet. The sward consists of small grasses, Juncus

niveus, Gnaphalium, Hypericum of Mollong, suffrutex incertus. Juncus

effusus at 9,000 feet, with Prinsepia utilis.

The marked indicators of great elevation are A. densa, Polygonum, Rheum!

Eriogona! Rhododendron microphyllum, ellipticum, and ellipticum foliis

basi cordatis, Epilobium, Triticoides, Holcoides, Umbellifera of Royle,

Saxifragae, Ribes, Juniperus.

The most marked peculiarity is the comparative absence of A. densa on the

east side of the mountain, and its excessive abundance on the west. This

valley may be justly called the valley of pines, for in no direction is

any forest to be seen but those composed of pines. The change indeed is

extraordinary, in other respects as indicated by the presence of a new

Rosa and Prinsepia utilis. Another peculiarity is the appearance for the

first time of A. spinulosa. The range of which is between 8 to 10,000

feet; this is a beautiful tree, and disposed in beautiful groups. The

valley altogether is a beautiful one, and actually repays one for the

trouble endured in getting access to it.

The temperature in crossing the ridge was below that on Dhonglaila, and

below the freezing point at times. No inconvenience was felt by us from

the elevation, but many of our servants suffered probably as much from

fright as cold.

_February 27th_.--Halted.

_February 28th_.--This valley is certainly the prettiest place we have

yet seen, the left bank is particularly level, but neither are of much

breadth, the hills adjacent present rounded grassy patches, interspersed

with beautiful groves of pines. The level space, as well as the more

favourable sites on the slopes of the hills, are occupied by wheat

cultivation, which is carried on in a more workman-like manner, than any

of the previous cultivation I have hitherto seen. The fields are

occasionally surrounded with stone walls, but generally only protected

from the inroads of cattle by branches of thorny shrubs strewed on their

edges. They are kept clean, and above all, manure is used: it is however

dry and of a poor quality, apparently formed of animal and vegetable

moulds. In some of the fields the surface is kept very fine, all stones

and clods being carefully removed and piled up in various parts of the

field, but whether these masses are again strewed over the ground. The

plough is used, and penetrates to about four inches. Hoes and rakes are

also used, but the angle of the handle is much too acute. Radishes are

grown with the wheat: no rice is cultivated here.

The village Bhoomlungtung, at which we are stationed is on the left bank

of a branch of the Bhoomla nullah, a river of some size, but fordable in

most places, its bed being subdivided. It is 8,668 feet above the sea.

The houses are ordinary, but they are surrounded with stone walls. Our's,

which is a portion of the Dhumpas or headman's, has a court-yard,

surrounded by a stone wall, and the entrance is defended by a stout and

large door. The natives invariably wear dark clothing, the colour being

only rivalled by that of their skins, for I never saw dirtier people. The

Bhooteas hitherto visited, were quite paragons of cleanliness compared to

those we are now among. Half ruined villages are visible here and there,

although otherwise the appearance of the valley is prosperous enough. The

valley is surrounded on all sides by hills of great altitude, the lowest

being 10,500 feet high. Snow is plentiful on the ridges, but it does not

remain long below, although falls are frequent. No fish are to be seen

in the river, which is otherwise as regards appearance as beautiful a

trout stream as one could wish to have. The birds are the common

sparrow, field-fare, red-legged crow, magpie, skylark, a finch which

flies about in large flocks, with a sub-forked tail, raven, red-tailed

stonechat, larger tomtit, syras, long-tailed duck, and quail, which is

much larger than that found in Assam. The woods are composed entirely of

Abies pendula, a few A. spinulosa occur, intermixed, but the woods of the

latter species are scarcely found below 9,500 feet. The ridges are

clothed with the columnar Abies densa. In thickets a smaller Rosa,

Rhododendron ellipticum, foliis basi cordatis, Rhododendron elliptica,

foliis subtus argenteis, Rhodod. gemmis viscosis. Berberis asiatica,

Hamamelidea? Bambusa microphyllum, Philadelphus, Thibaudia orbicularis,

Mespilus microphyllus, Taxus or Abies Brunonis, Ilex dipyrena, occur. The

sward shews small grasses, all past flower, Hemiphragma, Thymus,

Dipsacus, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalia 2, 3, Potentilla.

The fields have Crucifera Lamium and Verbascum, a late biennial species,

Caule simplici, Hemiphragma.

The marshy spots abound with Juncus effusus, and shew also a Primula out

of flower, and a Xyris past flowering.

Along the bed of the river, Hippophae is the most common plant. Lastly,

a few trees occur of Q. ilecifolia, which assumes a very handsome

character, looking much like a Conifera at some distance, one group

occurs near the village, and a solitary tree or two elsewhere. The other

woody vegetables are Rosa fructibus hispidis, Cycnium, Pomacea arbuscula,

and one or two other deciduous shrubs. The willow tree is also common.

_March 1st_.--Marched to Byagur, we were told that the march was a

short one, and that we should continue throughout along the Bhoomlungtung

river, which is called Tung-chiew. We did keep along this for about two

miles, when we struck off into the hills passing through a village, we

continued rising for perhaps 1,000 feet, when we descended to a small

nullah. Leaving this we commenced an ascent, and a very long one too,

and continued to ascend until we surmounted the ridge overlooking the

river, on which Byagur or Iugur is situated. To the place we descended,

the march was fourteen miles, direction westerly. Highest ground

traversed about 9,500 feet high. Road throughout winding round and up

hills, through woods of Abies pendula: nothing of interest occurred.

Magpies, crows, chatterer feeding on pine cones, common in woods at 9,000

feet. Passed two or three villages, all containing ruined houses.

Direction we pursued was that of the Tung-chiew river, until we reached

the ridge guiding the Byagur river to it: their junction takes place two

or three miles below this place, Cycnium occurred on the road in plenty,

also Sarcococea.

Horseshoe curlew, the same as we shot at Daimara, common in the

Tung-chiew, along which the chief shrubs are Hippophae and Elaeagnus,

particularly in the islets which are not uncommon in its bed. The common

water wagtail also occurs.

I find that the root of the common Potentilla is used here, as about

Nunklow, as a substitute for _sooparee_, it is unpleasantly astringent.

Observed Rhododendron microphylla on the loftier ground; very high land,

18,000 feet visible to the south along the course of Tung-chiew, covered

with heavy snow: Abies pendula is occasionally a beautiful tree, 100 feet

high, and in appearance something like a cedar, the finest occurs at a

monastery under a bluff rock, about one and a half mile from

Bhoomlungtung on the Tung-chiew; Daphne papyriferae occurred at 9,000

feet. The heaps of earth piled up in the fields before sowing, consist

of burnt rubbish, the ashes are subsequently spread out. The manure

consists entirely of vegetables: here I find that the pine leaves are

piled up, and formed into manure by fermentation.

_March 2nd_.--Byagur, the Soobah's house is about 500 feet above us,

and is a huge rambling edifice. We are in a village situated in a rather

capacious valley, percolated by a large river, twice the size of the Tung-

chiew, which is crossed by an ordinary bridge, the river runs close to

the hills, which form the left bank, the right is a sort of plain,

occupied by wheat cultivation, and which has apparently at a former

period, been the bed of the river. In this valley other villages are

visible, but they are small, and nothing indicates either fertility or

prosperity. The valley is surrounded on all sides by high mountains,

those towards Bhoomlungtung being lowest. To the north-east very high

land is visible. The ridge which separates us from Tongse is, in the

highest parts, certainly 12,000 feet, and covered with snow. The people

are dirty to an excess.

Crow, sparrow, Alauda, are the birds here. Saw a fox, an animal of some

size, with a beautiful brush. The botany is poor, the hills are clothed

with the usual grasses, abundance of Abies pendula. The khets or fields

present the old Lamium and Crucifera. The only trees are one of Q.

ilecifolia, and one or two of Salix lanata.

_March 3rd_.--Cycnium is found here, but is put to no use. The crops

which are now springing up are very poor, the soil being extremely bad,

they are irrigated by means of canals, but terraces are not in use, the

ground being too level, the embankments are much smaller than those used

in rice cultivation.

The place is bleak in the extreme, and here, as often on the western face

of the Himalaya, at this season a fierce diurnal wind rises directly the

sun gets power, which always blows up the ravines or against the streams

draining these, it dies away towards evening, generally. It is cold in

the extreme, and must check vegetation extremely. Syras, common here, as

at Bhoomlungtung.

The ridge above this which is crossed coming from Bhoomlungtung, is 9,947

feet high, yet no snow was on the ground. The contrast between it and

Pemee in regard to snow and vegetation is remarkable; there the woods

were thick, luxuriant, and varied, here nothing is to be seen but Abies

pendula. I consider this a proof that A. pendula is a native of places

below much snow, and that where snow abounds, it will not be found to

extend above 8,000 feet. The dwarf bamboo of Sanah is common here,

covering large patches of ground, Lamium of Bulphai in the vicinity of

temples, and enclosing pagodas. The people here evince great skill in

figures, but none in architecture.

The Soobah's house, a castellated heterogeneous mansion, spread over much

ground, the defences on one side reaching nearly to the level of the

valley. The Kumpa dogs are fierce and handsome, with the bark of a

mastiff, they are not apparently deterred by threats, but rather the

contrary. A woman with dropsy, wrapped in filthy clothes, presented

herself and evinced great anxiety to have her pulse felt, but the dirt of

her clothes was such, that I made excuses.

Manure for the land consists of pine leaves, etc. mixed with cow-dung.

The cattle are well littered; and grass is here of rather better

description: all cattle are however in wretched condition

notwithstanding, and the cows give very little milk. The houses of the

poorer orders, are unornamented, but those of the better classes are

always ornamented with a belt of red ochre outside. There are no large

boulders in the river here, although it runs with violence. This is

owing to the softness or tenacity of the rocks.

_March 4th_.--Our march commenced with a steep ascent up the ridge,

forming the west boundary of the valley, surmounting this we proceeded on

for some distance at about the same level, and thence descended rapidly

to a nullah. We then ascended slightly, and subsequently descended to

the valley, in which the village Jaisa is situated. The distance was

nine miles; the march was pretty, almost entirely through fir woods,

three villages were visible in a valley to the left, which is in fact the

termination of the Jaisa one, but beyond the valleys no cultivation

whatever was visible.

The first part was up a barren grassy slope, after which we entered fir

woods, these at first were almost entirely constituted of Abies pendula.

At 9,000 feet Chimaphila, Berberis spathulata, Abies pendula, Bambusa

microphylla of Sanah, Mespilus microphyllus, Rhododendron elliptica,

foliis basi cordatis subtus argenteis, Philadelphus Lycopod. of Surureem,

Gaultheria nummularifolia, Rhododendron viscosum.

At 9,300 feet, Abies spinulosa becomes more common, Rosa hispida and

microphylla! Pinus cedroides commences, Dalibarda, Daphne papyracea,

Thymus, Gnaphalia, Mespilus and Berberis, as before, Potentilla.

At 9,500 feet, snow lying on the path in sheltered places, Euphorbia,

Gaultheria arboreoides, Hypnum rubescens, scolopendrioids, Pteris

aquilina, Melianthus, Rosa, frutex erectus ramis hispidissimis, ramulis

subglabratis, fructibus pendulis glabris, tubo-ovato, sepalis

lanceolatis. Salix arbuscula, gemmis rubur glabris, foliis lanceolatis

subtus glaucis, amentis faeminies pendulis, Bupleurum, Hydrangea, Spiraea

densa belloides! Prunella, Pinus cedroides common at Potentilla.

At 9,700, 9,800, to 10,000 feet, Abies densa, a few trees, as usual many

blasted, from lightning confined entirely towards the summit, Acer

sterculiacea, Aruncus, Thibaudia orbicularis, A. spinulosa very common,

A. pendula ceases, or at most only stunted plants occur, Mespilus

microphyllus, Berberis spathulata, Baptisia, these were very common on

west face, which is level enough and open.

Here also Pedicularis, Bupleurum, stunted Pteris aquilina, Polygonum,

Rheum! Avena! Pendulous lichens luxuriant. Along the level tracts, the

woods consisted entirely of Abies spinulosa, a minute Gentiana common on

the sward.

The descent was steep to the ravine; half-way down A. pendula commenced

to flourish, and towards the ravine it was more common than A. spinulosa;

Rhododendron microphyllum was seen on this face at 9,500 feet, Verbascum

at 9,200 feet, but most of the plants seen on the east face were not

found on this. Acer sterculiacea, however occurred at 9,800 feet,

otherwise pines were the most prominent feature.

At the nullah, Dipsacus, Elaeagnus, Salix lanata, Artemisia major, Daphne

papyracea, Rhododendron viscosum, Mespilus microphyllus, Rosa hispida,

spinus acutissimis, Bambusa of Sanah, Plectranthus a large suffruticose

annual species, common in all the same altitudes, were observed. The

subsequent descent was through woods of A. pendula, with a few of A.

spinulosa intermixed.

The limits of A. densa, A. spinulosa and A. pendula, Melianthus, Acer

sterculiacea, Thibaudia orbicularis, A. cedroides, Rosa microphylla,

Pedicularis, Hydrangea, Baptisia, Berberis spathulata were well

determined. They may be expressed as follows: A. densa, 10 to 13,000

feet, A. spinulosa, 9 to 10,500 feet, A. pendula, 6 to 9,000 feet,

Melanthus, 9,500 feet, Acer sterculiaceum, 9,800 to 10,000 feet,

Thibaudia orbicularis, 10,000 feet, A. cedroides, 9,000 to 9,800 feet,

Rosa microphylla, 9,800 to 13,000 feet, Pedicularis, 10 to 12,500 feet,

Hydrangea, 4 to 10,000 feet unless two species are confounded, Baptisia,

9 to 9,800 feet, Berberis spathulata, 9 to 10,000 feet.

_Jaisa_ is a good sized village for Bootan, and the houses are rather

large. We were lodged in the castle, a large building, with a capacious

flagged court-yard, surrounded by galleries: we were housed in the grand

floor of the higher portion fronting the gate. A good deal of wheat

cultivation occurs around. The village is situated in a small nullah,

surrounded on all sides by pine-clad hills. The vegetation is precisely

the same as at Juggur, with the exception of a Ligustrum, which is common

along the nullah. Larks, red-legged crows and ravens, abound here.

_March 5th_.--Our march consisted of a progress along levelish ground

up the river, occasionally rounding small eminences: we then commenced

the ascent of a ridge, the summit of which we reached about half past-

twelve. Snow is common above 9,000 feet. The descent was steep and

uninterrupted from about 2,000 feet, when we reached a small river.

Thence we ascended a little to descend again, we continued over a ravine

at nearly the same level, for some time proceeding over undulated ground:

on reaching the debouchure of the ravine into a larger one running north

and south, we commenced to descend rapidly until we came to an elevation

situated above Tongsa, to this place the descent was excessively steep.

The march was thirteen miles long, the direction west.

At a temple near Jaisa found the Juniper of Oongar in flower, and

arboreous, attaining a height of about 40 feet. The whole march up,

nearly to the summit, was through pine woods, A. pendula and spinulosa

being intermixed for some time. I noticed Primula globifera, Eucalypta,

Thibaudia orbicularis, Aruncus, Rosa ramis hispidis, Dipsacus, Prunella,

Potentilla, Gnaphalium, Sphagnum, Daphne papyracea, Tofieldia, Gaultheria

nummularoides, as we approached the base of the ridge or rather the spot

at which the ascent commenced. At this place Abies cedroides commenced,

and Abies pendula became uncommon.

On a bank here, I gathered abundance of mosses, Bartramia, Dicrana, etc.

and some Jungermanniae.

The ascent was through precisely similar vegetation, in one place it was

exceedingly pretty, consisting of sward with pines. Here snow was lying

on the ground in sheltered places to the depth of several inches. The

ground hence was levelish, but between this place and the summit a rise

of a hundred feet took place. Between these places Abies densa,

cedroides and spinulosa, occurred, but this was uncommon, Rosa ramis

hispidis, Salix of yesterday, Bambusa of Sanah, stunted Pteris aquilina,

Betuloidea, Hydrangea, Hypnum rufescens, scolopendrioid as well as below:

Spiraea belloides, Rhododendron obovatum, which varies on the same plant

with ferruginous and white leaves, Sphagnum, Thibaudia orbicularis. On

sward Gentiana minima.

As the snow increased, Abies cedroides became less, Abies densa more

common. At the very summit Parnassia, Polygonum rheum, Composita

penduliflora, Rhododendron hispidum, Berberis spathulata, which had

occurred previously, Vaccinium pumilium, ciliatum, Gentiana minima,

Swertia, Cnicus, Compositae frequent, Labiata spicata of Dhonglaila.

The descent was at first open, through swardy places: here Acer

sterculiaceum, Geranium scandens, Avena, Abies densa, Juniperus

fruticosa, raro arbuscula.

At 9,800 feet, Rhododendron foliis lanceolato-oblongis subtus ferruginea

tomentosis, arborea, became very common, forming large woods, Abies densa

interspersed, Juniperus, Betuloidea which has six or seven layers of

bark, the _boj-putah_ of Hindoostan according to Blake, Rosa

microphylla, Hemiphragma, Daphne papyracea, Dicranum stratum, etc.

At 9,500 feet, Clematis, Berberis asiatica, commences, Betula, common

Andropogoneous grasses.

At 9,300 feet, Primula pulcherrima, Abies cedroides very common, Abies

densa ceasing, Buddlaea purpurescens, Aruncus, Bupleurum.

At 9,200 feet, Lonicera villosa, Vaccinium cyaneum, Bambusa alia, Abies

densa ceasing.

At 9,000 feet, the jungle now became humid, Gaultheria flexuosa, Mespilus

microphyllus, Quercus ilecifolia, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris,

Gaultherium nummularifolia common, Rubia cordifolia! Hydrangea.

At 8,900 feet, Junipers cease, woods of Q. ilecifolia and Pinus

cedroides, Rosa microphylla, shrubby Rhododendrons, that which was

arboreous previously now becoming shrubby, Berberis asiatica, Taxus or

Abies brunonis! Lomaria of Khegumpa, Rhododendron foliis oblongis subtus

punctatis ferrugineis, Rubus, Primula Stuartii! Quercus foliis, Castaneae,

Ilex, Betuloid, continues.

At 8,500 feet, Panax rhododendrifolia, Thibaudia obovata, Taxus

ophiopogon angustissimus, Rhododendron formosum majus! Smilax ruscoideus

vel gaultherifolia! Primula pulcherrima, very common.

At 8,200 feet, Spiraea decomposita, Thibaudia obovata very common. No

firs, woods of oaks and Rhododendron majus, Panax rhododendrifolia and

another species; Bambusa.

At the nullah, same vegetation, Tetranthera nuda, Primula pulcherrima,

Valeriana violifolia, Eurya acuminata, Daphne papyrifolia, Fragaria,

Potentilla supina, Rumex of Khegumpa, Poa annua, Stellaria media and

angustifolia, Rhodoracea deflexa!

At 8,000 feet, the woods at this elevation have the same characters,

Rhododendron argenteum becomes common, Q. ilecifolia and Castaneae

facies, both very handsome and large trees, covered with pendulous

mosses, Sphaeropteris, Saxifragea viridis, fleshy Urticea, Oxalis major

on sward at the same elevation, Vaccinium cyaneum, Mespilus microphyllus,

Artemisia major, Gnaphalium, Dipsacus, Elaeagnus in woods, Tetranthera

nuda, Taxus, Gaultheria flexuosa nummularifolia, Vaccinium cyaneum,

Lomaria, Lonicera villosa, paper plant, Thibaudia orbicularis, Hedera.

At 7,800 feet, towards open barren hills, Indigofera canescens, Q. robur,

Spiraea decomposita, Anthistiria minor, Composita penduliflora, Alnus of

Beesa, Juncus effusus, Viburnum caerulescens, Xyris, Scripus fuscescens

of Tassangsee, Gaultheria arborea and fruticosa, Polygonum rheoides,

Smilax auriculata, Saccharum aristata, Lobelia pyramidalis, Stauntonia

latifolia, Salix lanata, Deutzia.

At 7,500 feet, Quercus tomentosa commences, between this and Tongsa,

Berberis asiatica is very common, Rosa sp., quarta, Cyaneum dycopod. of

Surureem, Ilex dipyrena, Tuipus, Kysoor of Churra, Apple, Gleichenia

major, Rubus deltoideus. In wheat fields, 7,500 feet, Crucifera,

Thlaspa, Lamium, Ervum, are found, Vaccinium cyaneum continues to 7,000

feet, this Mespilus microphylla, Berberis asiatica, Cycnium, Lycopod. of

Surureem, Ilex, Daphne papyriferae, are the only elevational plants found

between 8 and 9,000 feet, and which continue low down. All the others

ceased with the jungles.

_March 13th_.--_Tongsa_: this, although the second place in the

kingdom, is a poor wretched village, the houses, always excepting the

palace, are poorer than ordinary, abounding in rats, fleas, and other

detestable vermin. Our reception would seem to be uncordial: we are

miserably housed in the heart of the village, which is a beggarly one. On

descending the hill some people in the Pillo's house behaved very

insolently, roaring out, and making most insolent signs for me to

dismount, of which of course I took no notice: sparrow-hawk was seen at

8,000 feet. There is but little cultivation, indeed the adjoining hills

are barren in the extreme. The little cultivation there is of barley,

which is now in the ear, and decent enough; the crops being much better

than any we have yet seen, although in many fields it is difficult to see

any crop at all. The village, including the houses on the surrounding

adjoining heights does not contain thirty houses. There is one flock of

sheep, which are in good condition, some small shawl-goats, and a few

cattle, but of a lighter breed than the Mithans, from which they are very

distinct, and which we have scarcely seen since crossing Dhonglaila, the

first high ridge. There is some rice cultivation along the nullah or

torrent, on which the village is situated. Pears, peaches likewise

occur, and are now both in flower. The hills around are bare, nothing

but shrubby vegetation being visible, the tree-jungle not descending

below 7,500 feet, except on one spur to the south-west, on which it

reaches nearly to our present level.

The shrubby vegetation consists of Hamamelidae, Salix, Gaultheria

fruticosa, Rosa, Rubus, Pomacea, Elaeagnus, Berberis asiatica, among

which Artemisia major occurs on sward. Primula Stuartii, Potentilla and

P. supina, Oxalis acetoseltoides, Juncus, Bartramia, Polytrichum glaucum,

Fragaria vesca. In the fields Lamium, Crucifera, Thlaspi, Gnaphalium

aureum, Prenanthoid, Fragaria indica, Viola, Ranunculus, Oxalis

acetosella, Poa annua.

Urtica urens, and urentior occur about the houses, Cupressus pendula and

a Magnoliaceous tree, with exquisitely fragrant blossoms.

The palace is a huge, long, straggling piece of patch-work, of ordinary

construction, and less imposing than that of Byagur, which the Pillo

makes his summer residence on the Bhoomlungtung; it is however ornamented

with three gilt umbrellas. It is situated on the bank of the nullah, and

defended by some outworks, 6 to 700 feet above it; to the east, these

might, from their situation, be easily demolished by stones. The palace

itself is commanded in every direction, particularly by the hill, along

which we came from Jaisa; indeed a person might jump from the summit of

this on to the outpost, and thence on to the palace; so precipitous is

the descent.

The people, above all those hitherto seen, are dirty in their persons,

uniting curiosity with no small share of obstinacy and impertinence in

their manners. The birds are the blackbird, a black mina, the

house-sparrow, sparrow-hawk, larger crow, domestic pigeons, kites, and

hoopoo. The red-legged crows I have heard once, but far above, nor do I

think that they ever visit this. The productions being essentially

different from those of the elevated valleys we have lately quitted. Can

those valleys be the _steps_ to the table-land of Thibet to which they

must be near, and which is reached sooner in that direction than any

other? The idea of the high valleys in question being steps to table-

land is perhaps corroborated by the fact, that the table-land is said to

be within two days' journey from Byagur.

Our interview with the Pillo took place on the 15th, it was conducted

with some state, and with some impertinence. The latter was indicated by

delaying us at the door of the audience room, the former by the

attendance of more numerous and better dressed attendants than usual. Two

Pillos were present. The incense as usual was burning, and the Pillos,

both old and new, were seated before some large Chinese-looking figures.

The only novel ceremony was the praying over a mess of something which I

imagine was meant for tea; in the prayer all joined, when finished the

beverage was handed to the Pillos, who, however, were contented with

merely tasting it. Before this some was strewn on the floor in front,

and some to the right of the chieftains. The castle was in places

crowded with people, no less than 5 to 600, but all were as dirty as

usual. None but the immediate attendants appeared armed. The new Pillo

is a dark low-looking man, with an incipient goitre, the old one a more

decent aristocratic looking person, good-looking and very fair. The

presents were of course beggarly, consisting of indifferent oranges,

wretched plantains, sugarcane of still worse quality, and ghee of an

abominable odour.

March 17th.--We still remain here, and do not expect to leave for two or

three days. The weather is unsettled, and the sun increasing in power

daily. The new Soobahs left to-day for their appointments, with the

exception of the Dewangur one. Pigs are here fed on boiled nettle

leaves: old ladies may be seen occasionally busily employed in picking

the leaves for this purpose, and which they do by means of bamboo pincers

or tweezers. A few plantains may be met with here, but in a wretched

state. Rice may be seen 500 feet above this, on the north of the castle,

the slope of a hill being appropriated to its cultivation; the terraces

above, owing to the inclination, are very narrow, and from the paucity of

straw, the crops must, I should infer, be very poor.

_March 22nd_.--To-day we took our leave of the Pillo, who received us

in a room to the south of the castle. He was friendly enough, but begged

for presents unconscionably. He was surrounded by a considerable number

of more mean-looking persons than ordinary. On the previous meeting he

talked openly of being at enmity with the present Deb Rajah, but on this

occasion he said little on the subject.

The castle is an ill-built, and worse arranged building, the windows and

loopholes being so placed as to afford every facility for shooting into

the air. In a court-yard, several tiger skins brought from the plains,

are suspended.

It now appears that this Pillo, who said previously that the new Deb was

never installed, is himself an usurper, previously handing the old Deb

from the throne. This latter personage appears to be by far the more

popular of the two. The Pillo must now have great influence, as all the

posts in his division, are either held by his own sons, or by his more

influential servants. The sons by the bye are, so long as they remain in

the presence, treated like ordinary servants. Joongar is held by one of

his sons, a lad of about eighteen, of plain but pleasing appearance and

of good manners. He visited us yesterday, and his newly acquired rank

sat easily on him. The old Pillo no doubt owes his rank to his having

been the father of the lad chosen to be Dhurma Rajah, he is himself very

evidently low-born and low-bred, and compared with the former one, so

poor a specimen, that the greater popularity of the former is not to be

wondered at. From all we have heard, they are contemptible rulers, as

they appear to do nothing but intrigue for power among themselves.

Changes are hence excessively frequent, and were they attended with much

bloodshed, the country would be depopulated.

This evening we had ample proof that the Bhootea houses are not water-

proof. Heavy showers occurred with thunder and dense clouds from the

south-west.

_March 23rd_.--We left Tongsa, proceeding through the castle, and

thence struck down to the river Mateesun. The descent was very steep,

and amounted to about 1,200 feet. The river is crossed by an ordinary

bridge, it is a large and violent stream and contains fish, some of

which, seen by Blake, were of large size. Crossing this, we continued

throughout the remainder of the march, gradually rising along the ridges

bounding the Tongsa river. We continued rising until we reached our

halting place, Taseeling. In one or two places, the road was completely

built up; ascending by zig-zags up, in some degree, perpendicular cliffs.

The distance was seven miles.

Proceeding to the bridge, observed Rubus deltoideus, Pomacea, Quercus

tomentosa, Artemisia major, Cycnium, Gaultheria arborea and fruticosa,

Buddlaea, Quercus altera, Indigofera cana, Gaylussacia serratoides,

Hedera, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Pomacea sauraugifolia, Viburnum

caerulescens, Quercus robur budding, Pterogonium, Fragaria, Duchesnia.

The remaining hills were much similar, generally very bare, clothed with

partial woods of Q. tomentosa, Rhododendron minus; the oak changing to Q.

robur, as we increased our elevation. Near the bridge noticed

Bucklandia, Erythrina, which is likewise found at Tongsa, Maesa

salicifolia, Urena lobata, Cnicus, Mimosea! Arbuscula inermis, Senecio

scandens in flower, Araliacea subscandens, Didymocarp. contort., a

Solenia, Betuloideus, Panax curcifolia, Alnus, Arundo, Anthistiria

arundinacea, Cerasus, Tricerta unisexualis, at 6,000 feet.

At about the same elevation Rhododendron minus becomes common, Primula

Stuartii, Dipsacus, Verbenacea exostemma, Scleria, Valeriana,

Tradescantia on rocks, with Saxifraga ligularia in full flower at 6,500

feet.

About this, 6,500 to 6,800 feet, Spiraea decomposita, Hamamelidea here a

tree, occasionally but small, Erythroxyloides, Conyza nivea and communis,

Gleichenia major, Parochetus communis on wet dripping rocks, Woodwardia,

Clematis ternata.

At 7,000 feet, Berberis asiatica, Q. tomentosa ceased, its place being

supplied by Q. robur, Verbascum, Juncus, Gaultheria nummularioid,

Mespilus microphyllus, Scirpus fuscus of Tassangsee, Thibaudia

gaultherifolia, Rubia cordifolia, Azalea, and Daphne capitulis pendulis,

Ranunculus uniflorus, Hydroctyle.

Taseeling is situated about 2,000 feet above the Mateesun, on a nakedish

hill; about it there is some cultivation, and one or two villages, one

towards Tongsa and above Taseeling of some size. The place itself

consists of a large house, with some fine specimens of Cypressus pendula,

the east face of the house has the red stripe, indicative of rank. Its

elevation is about 7,300 feet, close to the house I observed the Lamium

of Bulphai, Bursa pastoris, Oxalis corniculata, Cnicus out of flower,

Artemisia major, Fragaria vesca, Daphne pendula and papyracea,

Hemiphragma, Composita pendulifolia, Lycopod. of Surureem, Hypericum,

Berberis asiatica, Juniperus; Barley cultivation, and a Pomaceous

arbuscula, armat. ovar. 5-discretis. The red-legged crow occurs here,

and a thrush much resembling our English one. The raven of course

occurs. A curious opening occurs in the hills at Taseeling, affording a

prospect of the Bag Dooar plains, seven days' journey distant, but the

road is bad.

_March 24th_.--Leaving Taseeling we commenced to ascend until we

rounded a ridge, when we turned to the west, we then commenced to

descend, but slightly, winding over undulated surfaces of barrenish

hills. After some time we reached heavy tree jungle, the road proceeding

in the same undulating manner, so that it was impossible to say whether

we had risen or descended. About one we came on the river, up the ravine

of which we had been advancing ever since turning to the west. This

stream is of some size, very violent and rapid, but fordable. Near this

is a large pagoda, built after the old Boodhistical style, and the only

respectable one we have yet seen, its site is pretty, and it is

ornamented above with eyes and a fiery-red nose. Leaving this we

ascended along one bank of the river, until we reached Chindupjee, our

halting place; this was distant from the pagoda three miles, and from

Taseeling twelve. This latter part reminded me of Bhoomlungtung; firs

being the prevailing trees, and the valley having more pretensions to the

name than usually happens.

We encamped in a beautiful spot, the house being situated on fine sloping

sward, surrounded by picturesque trees of Q. ilecifolia, a few tall

Cypressus standing up in the centre. The village is a few feet above,

and of average size, although it looks from a little distance to be of

considerable size. The march throughout was beautiful, especially after

entering the wooded tract; this reminded me of the march near Khegumpa,

the woods were here and there very picturesque, glades and swards

abounding, water was very abundant here, and this no doubt causes the

development of so much vegetation.

At 7,800 feet, Thibaudiaceae very common, Rhododendron two species,

Gaultheria flexuosoides, Thibaudia obovata, Caudata myrtifolia,

Hydrangea, which I find to be a climber, Rhododendron majus, commencing,

pine wood; chatterers heard here. Hills naked or covered here and there

with stunted wood; marshy places common.

At 7,600 feet, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Tetranthera nuda, Sphaeropteris, pear

and apple, Q. tomentosa, Magnolia grandiflora begins, Polygonum rheoides,

Daphne pendula, which is used, as well as the other, both here and in

Nepal in the manufacture of paper: brick-red black-pate.

At this same elevation farther on, Rosa hispida! Gillenia, Juncus,

Rhododendron deflexa, Smilax gaultherifolia, Spiraea bella, Dipsacus,

Spiraea decomposita, Ilex, Vaccinium cyaneum, Magnolia grandiflora very

common. The country now becomes more wooded, the woods being confined to

moist ravines, and in other situations where water is very plentiful, the

woods throughout become continuous, and forming the large forests before

mentioned: having the open spaces between the woods covered with sward,

on which Gentiana pygmaea, and Fragaria are very common.

[Chindupjee: p272.jpg]

As we approached the wood or forest, Pinus cedroides commenced, and

towards the valley of Chindupjee this species became very common, Rumex

occurred throughout in wet places, also at Taseeling. Geranium is common

also in wet places, Stauntonia latifolia, Potentilla, Duchesnoides,

Tussilago of Churra, on the confines of wood and on it. Here the orange

breasted trochilus occurred. The mass of the wood is formed of a fine

Quercus, resembling Q. glauca, it is a beautiful and a shady tree. Next

to it in abundance is Rhododendron majus, now in full flower, and forming

a beautiful object, Rhododendron minus ceases with the barrener tracts.

Magnolia is very conspicuous; Pinus cedroides common towards the pagoda;

Eurya not rare, Gaultheria nummulifolia continues throughout, Valeriana

violifolia, Oxalis acetoselloides, Bryum, Butia purpurea, Sambucus,

Saxifraga of Bulphai, and another species, Bambusa microphylla, Swertia,

Luzula, Thibaudia orbicularis, Primula Stuartii, occurred between the

commencement of the ascent and the pagoda; at between 7,300 to 7,600

feet, Magnolia odoratis.

At the pagoda and village, Pinus cedroides, P. pendula, Bambusa of Sanah,

Mespilus microphyllus, Magnolia grandiflora, Berberis asiatica, Q.

anthoxylia, Coriaria, Rosa altera of Bhoomlungtung, Elaeagnus, Salix and

Allium of Bulphai, occur.

Chindupjee is situated on a rivulet close to the confluence, with a

larger stream. Around it, or at least between the village and the larger

stream, picturesque patches of sward bordered with a very picturesque

oak. Q. ilecifolia occur; this tree predominates all about the village,

it is certainly the prettiest place we have yet seen.

Some cultivation occurs around, chiefly of barley, with a little portion

of radishes. The valley is surrounded by comparatively low mountains,

most of which are rather bare, many are transversely furrowed on the

surface, this may arise from their having been at some former period

under cultivation.--The prevailing trees on the surrounding heights are

firs, Pinus pendula and cedroides. No fish are to be seen in the river.

The birds are the raven, white-necked starling, _bullfinch_, crimson and

yellow shrikelets, blue tomtits, lesser ditto with two stripes on the

head, white-rumped waterchat, red-tailed chesnuty sparrow.

The plants are Q. ilecifolia, Magnolia grandiflora, Laurinea,

Hamamelidioides, Castanea aromatica, Pinus cedroides and pendula, Bambusa

microphylla, and B. of Sanah which may be a variety depending on its

marshy sites, Rhododendron minus, Salix, Mespilus microphyllus,

Gaultheria nummularoides, Elaeagnus, Marchantia, Swertia, Rumex, Daphne

papyracea, Dipsacus, Artemisia major, Berberis asiatica, Rosa hispida,

Rubus caesius, Stauntonia latifolia, Tofieldioid of Sanah and Pemee,

Taxus, Mespilus microphyllus, Ilex dipyrena, Oxalis acetoselloid, Thymus,

Lycopodium of Surureem, Juniperus.

Bamboos split and inverted, and then placed in the ground, are used to

scare away beasts from the cornfields.

_March 26th_.--Left at seven and a half and proceeded along the river

which runs by Chindupjee, the path running over the spurs of the hills,

forming its right bank. After proceeding about four miles, we crossed

the nullah, changing our direction, and proceeding up a tributary, until

we reached a prettily situated, and rather large village, thence we

commenced to ascend over naked slopes with intervening woods, until we

reached the base of the chief ascent, which is not very steep, although

of good length, chiefly over naked hills. On reaching the summit, which

is about 10,000 feet high, we commenced to descend, and the descent

continued uninterruptedly and steeply until we reached Rydang, where we

halted.

We passed only one village, which is about five miles from Chindupjee,

and of similar size; but we passed in the more elevated places two

temporary ones, apparently intended for the residence of the herdsmen of

yaks or chowry-tailed cows, as a herd of these animals was seen feeding

near each place.

The march throughout was beautiful, in the more elevated and drier

portions, winding over swardy slopes or through woods of fir trees: on

the descent from 9,000 feet downwards, passing through beautiful forests,

chiefly of oak, and diversified in every possible way. The long-tailed

pie was met with in the first portion, about 7,800 feet, the speckled

chatterers at 8,500 feet, red shrikelet at 7,800 feet, and a new hawk at

8,300 feet. I observed the water-ouzel again as high as 8,000 feet. The

new plants were a Carex, 6,500 feet, a sileneous plant past flowering,

from the _same_ limestone formation.

At 7,800 feet, and not far from Chindupjee, Pinus spinulosa again

re-appears, it becomes common towards the village alluded to, and

continues throughout the ascent, up to 9,300 feet, P. cedroides was

uncommon during the first part of the march, its place being occupied by

P. spinulosa, afterwards it re-appeared, and continued abundant up to

9,300 feet, it re-appeared on the descent about the same elevation, and

continued to about 8,000 feet. Abies densa commences at the base of the

chief ascent: at 10,000 feet, it is the only fir to be seen, it descends

but a short way on the Rydang side. In the higher portions it occurred

mixed with a Juniper, which in proper places becomes a small but elegant

tree.

At the village on 7,000 feet, observed Rosa hispida, Ligustram of Jaisa,

Philadelphus, Pinus spinulosa common, as also Pinus cedroides, Bambusa of

Sanah very common. Near this, larks were heard soaring high above us.

At 8,500 feet, Pendulous lichens becoming plentiful, Lonicera villosa.

At 9,000 feet, Abies densa appears, Acer sterculium, Betula, Bogh Pata,

Rhododendron fruticosa, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis.

At 9,300 feet, Abies densa common, P. cedroides rare, spinulosa 0,

pendula 0, Rosa hispida, Gaultheria nummularioid, which as usual

continued throughout, Hypnum scolopendroid, Sphagnum, Bogh Pata very

common, Rhododendron foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus argenteis,

which I found on the descent as low as 8,000 feet.

At 9,500 feet, Bogh Pata very common, trees covered with Pendulous

lichens, Bambusa of Sanah, Abies densa everywhere.

At 10,000 feet, Abies densa, Juniperus, Rhododendron obovata, foliis

subtus argenteis; I am not sure whether this is a variety or not, but it

indicates greater elevation than the ferruginous one, Rhododendron

gemmis, viscosis, foliis lanceolatis, supra venosis subtus subargenteis

very common, Gnaphalium, Mespilus microphyllus, Rosa hispida, Swertia,

Berberis spathulata, Orthotuck, Cerastum inflatum, Hemiphragma, Bogh

Pata, Primula globifera, Pedicularis, Dicranum nigrescens, etc. Limonia,

Laureah.

Daphne papyraceae occurs at the same elevation, chiefly on the side of

the descent. From this place an opening is visible to the north west,

occupied by low hills. Juniperus very fine occurs, Compositae abundant.

Snow lies in the hollows and sheltered woods.

At 9,600 feet, Lonicera villosa, Rosa microphylla, Buddlaea purpurescens!

Berberis spathulata, Spiraea belloides, Hydrangea! Rhododendron foliis

lanceolatis, etc. as above, forming thick woods, Abies densa, Bogh Pata,

Bambusa, Limonia lanceolata.

At 9,400 feet, Prunella, Cerastium inflatum, Labiata spicata, Baptisia!

High ground 14 to 15,000 feet, is seen forming a lofty heavily snowed

ridge to the north.

At 9,000 feet, Pinus cedroides re-appears, Bogh Pata, Rhododendron as

before, Daphne papyraceae, Thibaudia orbicularis, Limonia lanceolata,

Dalibarda, Polygonum rheum!

At 8,800 feet, Rhododendron hispida, Abies densa ceased, Limonia

lanceolata common, Lonicera villosa, Rebus triphyllus, Acer! Taxus!

Primula Stuartii! Rubia cordifolia!!

At 8,500 feet, Chimaphila, Rhododendron obovata-ferrugina! Pinus

cedroides, here and there, of immense size, diameter of one-six feet,

Lycopodium of Surureem, Bogh Pata, Gaultheria flexuosa, Q. ilecifolia,

also a very large and tall tree.

At 8,400 feet, Taxus very common, Smilax gaultherifolia, Olea, Sarcococea

very common, Thibaudia orbicularis, Laurinea, Hamameloides. Beautiful

glades here occurred, trees covered with mosses: another fine oak, Q.

castaneoides commences, Daphne papyraceae very common, Composita

penduliflora, Hemiphragma, Rhododendron elliptica, foliis basi, cordatis

subtus punctatis, Ilex! Berberis intermedia, Laurinea uniflora, large

Umbellifera of Rodoole descent.

At 8,000 feet, Acer, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron majus! R. argentea

commences.

At 7,500 feet, Cedar ceased, Rhododendron majus very common, Taxus

diminishing, Sphaeropteris, Ericinia soloraefolia, Lomaria of Khegumpa,

Thibaudia orbicularis ceases.

At 7,300 feet, Berberis pinnata, Spiraea bella, Cycnium, apple tree. Here

we emerged on open space in front of a hill, on which several detached

houses stood, around which Pinus pendula was very common. Barley

cultivation. Several small villages visible around, and to the north, in

front of the snowy ridge, a curious truncated mountain was seen, its apex

covered with snow.

Magnolia! Conaria! Cycnium, Viburnum canescens! Gaultheria arborea,

Berberis intermedia very common, Fragaria.

At 7,200 feet, Q. tomentosa! the others have ceased, Gaultheria

fruticosa, Rhododendron arborea, minus and argentea, in fine flower,

Eurya aecuminata, Smilax, Gaultherifolia, Thibaudia caudata, Q. robur,

Gleichenia major, Salix as before, Artemisia major, Rumex, Valeriana

violifolia, Rosa, Berberis asiatica, Ervicia crucifera, Thlaspi,

Callitriche, Calamus.

The curious features are, the absence of Thibaudia obovata on the

descent, and of Mespilus microphyllus, the substitution of Thibaudia

orbicularis, and its low descent, the abundance of Taxus, size of the

cedar and Q. ilecifolia, the re-appearance at same elevation of Magnolia

grandiflora, occurrence of Rubia cordifolia, at such an elevation, etc.

_Rydang_ is prettily situated towards the bottom of a rather narrow

valley. There is a good deal of barley cultivation about it. I also

noticed Cycnium, Celopecurus, Acorus Calamus, Corydalis! Fragaria,

Cardamina, Rosa, Berberis, Ilex, Plantago, Rumex, Viola, Artemisia major,

Daphne papyraceae, Gentiana pygmaea of Khegumpa, Houttuynia! Pomacea,

Callitriche, Dipsacus, Berberis pinnata, Elaeagnus, Q. robur, ilecifolia.

Of birds the long-tailed pie! is common. Berberis asiatica, Viburnum,

Caneun, apple, Quercus microcarpus, Orthodon, Pteris aquilina,

Ophiopogon, Angustis, Valeriana violifolia, Urtica urentium, Stellaria

media, Eurya acuminata, Betula.

_March 27th_.--Our march commenced with a steep descent to the Gnee, a

river of average size. We then continued descending along it for some

time, crossing it once on our way: we then diverged up a small nullah,

and then commenced a very steep ascent, of about 2,000 feet. After

attaining this, we proceeded through woods, or over sward at about the

same elevation, still continuing along the Gnee. We subsequently

commenced to descend at first through fine oak woods, then over barren

naked hills. We reached Santagoung, about three and a half miles

distance in a direct line, but fourteen miles by the road, highest point

traversed 8,000 feet; lowest reached 6,000.

During first part of descent, noticed one or two straggling cedars and

Taxus, Primula Stuartii, the woods were formed by Quercus robur,

tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus, Scabiosa reappears,

Clematis nova species, Sambucus, Rubus cresius, Composita pendulifolia,

etc. as at Rydang.

Along the Gnee, the beech became plentiful, as also two Viburnums, both

trees, together with the Cupulifera of Tongsa was here common and in fine

foliage. Juglans, Incerta of Boodoo, Gaultheria, Mimosa arborea,

Cupressus pendula, Conaria, Berberis racemosa and pinnata, Quercus

microcarpus, Woodwardia, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Marlea! Cucurbitaceae

menispermoides, Alnus of Beesa, Polygonium rheoides, Mespilus

microphyllus! Gentiana pygmaea, Salix, Pyrus. The birds were the usual

water birds, viz. ouzel, slaty-white rump, slaty-red tail, white-pated

chat.

On the smaller nullah Bucklandia, Viburnum microphyllum, Bucklandia!

The ascent was at first through dry woods of Rhododendron minus, Q.

tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, a Taxus or two occurred at 7,000 feet,

Indigofera cana, Rosa, Gaultheria fruticosa of Sanah aristatum.

At 7,000 feet, the same vegetation continued, Rhododendron minus very

common, Pendulous lichens commencing.

At this elevation, in more moist spots, woods thick, differently

constituted, Quercus glauescense, Castaneoides ilecifolia, here and there

Rhododendron majus, Magnolia grandiflora.

Gaultheria flexuosa, Pinus cedroides rare, Vaccinium cyaneum, Rosa

hispida! Saxifraga! Thibaudia orbicularis and caudata, Mespilus

microphyllus, Azalea, Ilex, Symplocos, Tussalago of Churra, Acer,

Thibaudia obovata, Pendulous mosses abundant.

The remainder of the vegetation afforded little of interest; consisted of

stunted oaks, Q. tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus:

Serissoides reappears near Santagoung, Pinus longifolia, plantains.

The valley to the left towards Santagoung is on the left side well

populated and cultivated.

_March 28th_.--Santagoung, a small village 6,300 feet above the sea,

situated on bare hills, between two loftier ridges. Country around well

inhabited and well cultivated in the terrace style: villages numerous.

Pinus longifolia, Rosa, Azalea, etc. occur here as before. A lake or

jheel was observed 500 feet below the village, of some extent, formed in

a natural hollow, abounding with Scirpus trigueter of Churra, and

Hydropeltis. Water-fowl, snipe, and red pie-like peewit or plover.

The march commenced with a steep descent, which continued until we

reached the river.

Crossing this we ascended 1,000 feet, and then proceeded in an undulating

manner over naked hills until we reached Thain, distance six miles; the

greatest descent was about 1,800 feet, ascent 1,000 feet; the country

naked; no forest. The hills for some extent towards Thain appeared from

some cause very red.

But little interesting vegetation occurred: noticed a huge Cypressus

pendula, half-way to the Gnee. Vegetation otherwise much the same as

towards Tassgong, Valeriana violifolia, Azalea, Campanula linearis, Rubus

deltoides, Aspidium macroser., Artemisia major, Pinus longifolia

straggling, only plentiful near Thain, Anthistiria minor! Primula

Stuartii, Mimulus, Gentiana pumila, Alnus, Flemingia secunda, Morus

rubeseoides, Salix, Quercus, Viburnum microphyllum.

At the river Caesalpinia! Ficus obliqua! Desmodium, Salix, Indigofera

cana, Arundo, Luculia.

On the ascent Holcus, Elaeagnus, Santalacea, Clematis cana,

Senecionoides, Conyza vulgaris, Emblica, Schaenanthus, Phyllanthus ruber,

Q. tomentosa, Desmodium vestilum, Briedleia obovata! Nerium canum,

Euphorbia antiquorum, Jasminum of Benka, Ligustrum conaria, Mesp.

microphyllus (are these two species confounded by me, as the

larger-leaved one never descends so low?), Lerissoides, Osbeckia

linearis, Euphorbia, Gordonia, Gymnobotrys. Red-legged crow; in descent

altitude 5,800 feet, the most common plant is a species of Berberis very

nearly allied to B. asiatica. Rain in the afternoon.

_March 29th_.--Mimulus, Acorus Calamus, Quercus robur, Rhododendron

minus, P. longifolia, Gymnobotrys, Campanula linearifolia, Rosa

tetrapetala, Gordonia, Salix, Verbena officinalis, majus, rugus, Lemna,

Gentiana, Hypericum japonica, Indigofera cana, Schaenanthus, Senecio,

Buddlea of Nulka, Pyrus, wheat, Ervum, Vicia, Potentilla, Q. tomentosa,

Cypressus, Ficus, Berberis, Phyllanthus ruber.

Blackbird, sparrow-hawk, and Hoopoe about houses; it has a curious hoop,

varied with a grating chirp.

The blackbird frequents houses here; its voice is very discordant and

singular, sparrow-hawks were seen to pursue wounded pigeons. Houses few,

built of unbaked and large bricks or rather cakes of mud. The village of

Wandipore is visible to the south-west, about one and a half mile. Snow

on ridges to west, all which are lofty. The country around Wandipore is

tolerably populous, though not so much so as about Santagoung.

We were compelled to halt at Phain or Thain, until the 1st instant, owing

to the admirable management of the Bhooteas. It appeared at first as if

the Zoompoor or Governor of Wandipore was determined that we should not

be gainers in time by not going through his castle, but subsequently it

turned out that the Deb had, with infinite consideration, wished us to

remain in order to rest ourselves after our long journey. This may have

been merely said to shelter the Wandipore man, who had the impudence to

send one evening to us saying, that the Deb and Durmah were coming to

Wandipore next morning, and that we were to meet them there, and return

the same evening to Punukha. This turned out untrue. Pemberton was at

last compelled to write to the Deb, and the consequence was the

arrangement for our advance next morning.

_April 1st_.--The march to Punukha extended over a most barren dried-up

country, the features presented were the same as those about Phain. We

proceeded at first in the direction of Wandipore, then diverged,

proceeding downwards in the direction of the villages. The remainder of

our journey extended either just above the base of the hills, or along

the valley: the distance was nine miles. The march was an uninteresting

one; the only pretty part being the river that drains the valley, and it

is one of considerable size, fordable in but few places; the rapids are

frequent, but the intermediate parts flow gently. We were all dreadfully

disappointed in the capital, the castle even is by no means so imposing

as that of Tongsa or Byagur; the city miserable, consisting of a few mean

houses, and about as many ruined ones.

The surrounding cultivation is chiefly poor wheat; the hills the most

barren conceivable. On arriving near the palace we made a detour, to

avoid exposure to the usual regal insolence: our plan was effectual. From

some distance I had espied our quarters, and although our mission is one

sent by the most powerful eastern government, yet we had allotted to us a

residence fit only for hogs.

It consisted of a court-yard, surrounded by walls, and what had evidently

been stabling; the apartments were numerous, but excessively small, the

roof of single mats. The place swarmed with vermin. In this we

determined not to stay, and so proceeded to the city, (for sure there

cannot be a capital without a city,) and there, after some delay,

procured two houses, in one of which the present Tongso Pillo had lodged

before his present exaltation. But imagine not that it was a palace. The

two houses together furnished three habitable rooms.

I imagine not that the houses were procured for us by the local

government. We only obtained them by Pemberton's liberality was well

known. The Sepoys' lines were transported hither not by Bhooteas but by

our own people. In addition the people are in many cases insolent, and

it was only after a peremptory message to the Deb, stating what the

consequences would be of such a system of annoyance, that we got any

assistance.

_April 3rd_.--We have heard nothing of the Mutaguat. It appears that

the country is unsettled now. The old Deb having possession of

Tassisudon, and the people here declaring they will stop all supplies if

the Deb does not, according to custom, repair at the usual period to

Tassisudon. A Deewan here, who has held office under four Rajahs, says,

that the present truce is owing to the hot weather; Bhooteas only admire

fighting in the cold season, in conformation of which, he says that in

the cold season the contest will be renewed. There will then be an

additional bone of contention for the present. Nor should I much wonder

if the Paro Pillo then comes forward and takes the Debship and all away.

The Deewan's account of the past fighting, places the Bhooteas in a most

contemptible light: it appears that when they fire a gun, they take no

aim, their only aim being to place their bodies as far as possible from

the weapon; the deadly discharge is followed up by the deadlier discharge

of a stone. At plunder they are more adroit.

The following plants may be found about this place; Ligustrum, Salex

pendula, Valeriana orolifolia, Campanula linearis, senecionideae, Viola,

Jasminum, Rosea, Conaria, mangoe one tree in the gardens, Citrus two or

three species in ditto, Jubrung, Diospyros, Acorus, Veronica, Ranunculus,

Sclerossophalos, Alopecercus, Agrostides, Bombax, stunted weeping

cypress, Pinus longifolia, Punica, Dipsacus, Potentilla, Potamogeton 2,

Hypericum japonica, Lysimachia, Chenopod, Ajuga, Anisomales.

Birds--great kingfisher, diver snappet, white-pated rumped chats, no

ouzels. Part of the gardens extend from the palace up the river to the

village; the breadth is fifty to seventy yards, the length 200. They are

surrounded by a dilapidated stone fence. Although an Assam malee or

gardener resides in them, they are kept in miserable order: the soil

seems good, the trees flourishing, mangoe, Diospyros, Jubrung, oranges,

citrons, pomegranates, are the principal trees. The south side has a

streamlet running along it outside the fence, for the supply of water.

This streamlet abounds with Acorus Calamus.

_April 9th_.--Our interview with the Deb took place. We dismounted at

the boards over the streamlets above mentioned, and then proceeded over

the wooden bridge across the Patcheen, which is here a wide and deep

stream: the bridge was partially lined with guards, in different dresses,

few in uniform; it was besides armed with shoulder wall-pieces, capital

things for demolishing friends. We then crossed a sort of court-yard and

then ascended a steep and extraordinarily bad flight of steps to the door

of the palace. Here we found the household troops all dressed in scarlet

with two door-keepers, one seated on either side of the door: this led us

into a quadrangle. The citadel being in front, the side walls were

rather low, although viewed externally they appear of good height, but

the ground of the interior is much raised. We crossed this diagonally,

passed into the opposite quadrangle on the west side, and thence ascended

into a gallery, hung with arms, and filled with followers, from this we

passed after a little delay into the Rajah's room.

This was handsomely decorated with scarfs, the pillars were variously

ornamented. The Rajah was seated on an elevated place in the corner, and

appeared a good-looking well-bred man. He received the Governor

General's letter from P. with much respect, getting up from his chair:

the visit was a short one, and entirely of ceremony. The presents were

deposited on a raised bench in his front. Communications were kept up by

the Deewan and the Zimpay, formerly Joongar Zoompoor or Governor. On

retiring we were presented with fruits, oranges, walnuts, horrid

plantains, ghee, eggs and rice.

The whole business went off very well, no attempt at insolence. The

concourse of people was greater than I expected. Swarms of Gylongs, the

more curious of whom received whacks from leathern straps, wielded by

some magisterial brother.

_April 10th_.--Yesterday we saw the Dhurma, to whom we had to ascend by

several flight of steps, which are most break-neck things, the steps

overlapping in front, and being often lined with iron on the part most

subject to be worn. We found him in the south room of the upper story of

the citadel. We waived our right to sitting in his presence as the

question was put to us with respect and delicacy. The Rajah is a good

looking boy, of eight or ten years old: he was seated in the centre, but

in an obscure part of the room, and was not surrounded by many immediate

attendants. The balcony was filled with scribes with handsome black,

gilt, lettered books before them. Two other scribes were likewise

engaged on our right, noting down what passed, but they seemed to be very

bad writers. The visit went off well. The room was tastily, but not so

profusely ornamented with scarfs as was the Deb's.

On returning we found the household guard drawn up in front to prevent

our passing out without paying a fee. This matter was soon settled

forcibly, and the durwan, or door-keeper, lost by his impudence the

present he would otherwise have had from P., besides being in a great

fright lest the affair should be reported to the Rajah.

_April 11th_.--The rains appear to have set in: the sky is constantly

overcast, and showers are by no means unfrequent. One of our dawks

arrived opened: this no doubt took place in the palace, although the Deb

strenuously denies it. Messengers are to be sent to Tassgoung, where the

accident is said to have happened. The cause of its having been opened,

is no doubt the report that there was a letter in it from the old Deb.

_April 14th_.--A violent squall unaccompanied by rain, came on

yesterday from the west: roofs were flying about in every direction, and

many accidents occurred from the falling of the stones by which they were

secured. Part of the palace was unroofed. The storm has stopped all our

amusements, particularly as the Gylongs attribute it to our firing. The

Kacharies, our servants, were likewise requested not to play any more on

the esplanade. This is just as it has been in every other place in

Bootan, nothing is said against amusement until the presents have been

received, and then we are requested to do nothing, and the authorities

become disobliging!

The potters fashion their earthenware entirely with their hands, the

upper half is finished on a flat board; the lower being added afterwards;

the finishing is done chiefly by a wet rag, the operator revolving around

the pot. The vessels chiefly used for carrying water are oval, these are

covered with black glaze.

Some Didymocarpi very fragrant, one near Chindupjee most grateful,

resembling quince and sandal wood; the odour is permanent, and appears to

reside in the young leaves before their expansion: Iris, Hypericum,

Viola, Ligust., Ranunculus, Verbasena, Gymnostomum, Serratula arenaria,

Veronica.