_Journey from Assam towards Bootan_.
Left Gowahatti on the 21st and halted at Ameengong ghat.
_December 22nd_, _1837_.--Left at twelve and proceeded to Hazoo, which
is nearly due west of Ameengong, and distant thirteen miles. Road,
through grassy plains; much cultivation throughout the greater part.
Passed several villages, and forded one stream. Hazoo is at the foot of
some low hills, on one of which is a temple of great sanctity with the
Booteahs. The hills above this, as well as between this and Ameengong,
abound with Cycas, many of which were once dichotomous; on these hills a
fleshy Euphorbia likewise occurs, a sure indication of barren soil. Pea-
fowl abound. The light-blue Jay figured in Hardwickii, Sterna, Haliaetus
pondicerianus, Chat, Butcher-bird, Edolius, Plovers, Hoopoe, and Ardea
indica, were met with.
_December 23rd_.--Hazoo, a large village, extending nearly north and
south, all the houses surrounded by trees. Areca bamboos, Ficus
elastica, F. indicoides, F. religiosa, Sapotea (Mimusops) Arborea,
Erythrina. Country to the east very jheely, and one huge expanse of
paddy cultivation. Fine Loranthus, Hingtstha repens.
_December 24th_.--Nolbaree, seventeen miles nearly, N. by W.,
throughout the latter half of the way, the country consisted of highly
cultivated plains, intersected by bamboo jungles, etc. Villages very
abundant, surrounded by trees, especially bamboos. The hedges are made
of a dwarf Pandanus. Crossed four streams, two not fordable. Grallatores
and water-birds innumerable throughout, but especially after passing the
Borolia, Bec ouvert or Anastomus coromandelianus, Pelicans, Water-hens,
Divers, Ibis bengala, Cigoines (Ardea Pavonia) Syras, Mangoe-bird, large
King-fisher, Hawks abundant, of which we observed five species; this is,
generally speaking, one of the richest parts of Assam I have hitherto
seen.
_December 25th_.--Dum Dummia, distance ten miles, direction north,
country very open, in parts less cultivated than before, scarcely any
jungle towards Dum; this is a straggling place on the banks of a small
stream called Noa Nuddee.
The bamboo continues common, as well as Pandanus, Pterocarpus marsupium,
Bombax, Diospyros ebenum, which are the most common trees. Villages are
very numerous, but as usual, entirely concealed from view by jungle.
_December 31st_.--Up to this morning we remained at Dum Dummia, and had
the Booteas alone been consulted, we should have remained there till to-
morrow. It is a very uninteresting place, the country consisting of one
extensive plain, diversified only by trees wherever there are villages.
There is a good deal of cultivation, chiefly however, of rice; some
sugarcane is visible, but it is of inferior quality, and evidently not
sufficiently watered. Sursoo is considerably cultivated. The river Noa
Nuddee is about seventy yards wide, with a stream of three miles an hour;
it is full of sand-banks and of quicksands, and is crossed with great
difficulty on elephants; by men it is easily fordable. The only shooting
about the place is Floriken, which are very abundant, ten or twelve being
seen in one day.
We left for Hazareegoung, a Bootea-Assam village to the north. We passed
through a similar open country not much cultivated, but overrun with
grassy vegetation. The path was of the ordinary description, and not
kept at all cleared: crossed a small stream twice, with a pebbly bed and
sub-rapids, a sure indication of approaching the hills. These, in their
lower portion, have a very barren appearance, but this may arise from the
cultivated patches: land-slips are of very frequent occurrence.
The grasses of the enormous plains, so prevalent every where in this
direction, are Kagaia, Megala, Vollookher, Saccharum spontaneum, this is
soft grass, and affords an excellent cover for game, Cymbopogon hirsutum,
which is more common than the C. arundinaceum, Erianthus, Airoides,
Rottboellia exaltata, Arundo, (?) Anatherum muricatum, Apluda, Trizania
cilearis, is common in the old rice khets.
Among these occur a tall Knoxia, Plectranthus sudyensis, and P.
uncinatus.
I observed Vareca, Grislea, about Dum Dummia. Elytrophorus is common in
rice khets.
Towards Hazareegoung we came on a high plain, covered principally with S.
spontaneum. Among this occurred Lactuioides, Premna herbacea, Grewia,
with here and there Pterygodium. I observe here Bootea bamboo baskets
made water-proof by caoutchouc; this is a practice much adopted by the
Booteas: and the trees are here. The large coloured stipulae are
peculiar to the young shoots cultivated, they are often a span long. The
young fruit is enveloped by three large coloured scales, which originate
from the annuliform base; this is hence a peduncle, not a bracte, as I
before supposed.
January 1st, 1838.--Halted.
_January 2nd_.--Marched to Ghoorgoung, a small village, eight miles
from Hazareegoung and nearly due north. We crossed similar grassy
tracts: the country gradually rising as we approached the hills.
Very little cultivation occurred. Crossed the Mutunga, now dry, but the
breadth testifies to its being a large stream in the rains, as the
boulders do to its being a violent one. The same plants continue; small
jungle or wood composed of Simool. Trophis aspera, Cassia fistula,
Bauhinia, Butea scandens, Byttneria, underwood of Eranthemum, and another
Acanthacea.
About this place Cnicus and Arundinaria occur, and a small Santalaceous
or Olacineous plant, with the habit of a Polygala. Merops apiaster is
very common.
_January 3rd_.--To Dewangeri, distance eight miles.
Our route hither lay for the greater portion up the bed of the Durunga,
the stream of which makes its exit about one mile to the west of
Ghoorgoung. After ascending its bed for some time, the ascent becomes
steep, for perhaps 800 or 1,000 feet, when we reached a portion of
Dewangeri, but two or three hundred feet below the ridge on which the
village is situated. The hills bounding the watercourse are very steep,
many quite perpendicular, owing to having been cut away; generally they
are of decomposed granite as at Dacanara, in some parts of conglomerate.
The torrent contains but little water, and very few fish, the banks are
wooded tolerably well, as soon as the lower barren ranges are past.
At the base Cassia fistula, Leguminous trees, Artemisia, Simool,
Spathodea, Bignonia indica, Sterculia, Caesalpinea, Phlogacanthus
thyrsiflorus, Paederia faetida, Eugenia, Rhamnea, Croton malvaefoliis are
found among the usual grasses, which form the chief vegetation.
These continue along the sandy bed for some time, but afterwards the
usual small Andropogons usurp their place. Anthistiria arundinacea
continue longest; with some of the large Saccharum, Rubus moluccanus soon
appears, with Melica latifolia, and a species of Rhus.
_Leptospartion_ is very common up to 1,000 feet, Pandanus 3-500 feet, but
soon ceases; the higher precipices abound with an elegant palm tree,
habitu Cocos.
Fleshy urticeae and Aroideum become common at 300 feet, along the shaded
watery banks, and continue so long as shade and humidity are found.
Equisetum commences at 300 feet, Arundo, Saurauja, Pentaptera, which last
ascends to 1,000 feet, as does Dillenia speciosa, Castaneae feorox
commences at 500 feet. Between this and the Choky, Polypodium,
Wallichianum arboreum, Davallia grandis, Oxyspora, Musci, Goodyera, and
Composita arborea are found.
At the Choky, the elevation of which is 965 feet, OEsculus begins.
Wallichia,* OEschynanthus, Urtica gigas,* Derngia,* Govania,* Anthistiria
arundinacea, Alstonea, Angiopteris, are found. Grislea is found as high
as 1,000 feet. Ficus obliquissima is found at 300 feet, and Ficus altera
species as high as 700 feet.
At 1,200 feet Rubi sp., Panax, Cordia, are found, and on the steep
ascent, Hastingsia,* Gordonia, Eurya, Corisanthera, Griffithia.
At one place the jack fruits, Ficus elastica, Compositi arborea, Panax
altera species.
Dewangeri occupies a ridge 200 feet above our halting place, the
elevation of which is 2,031 feet. The view to the north is confined to a
ravine of 1,500 feet deep, at the bottom of which runs a considerable
mountain torrent: to the SW. plains are visible, to the east and west the
view is hilly.
The village itself is a poor one, containing perhaps sixty houses, but
these are divided into three or four groups; the houses, with the
exception of three or four stone and lime ones, are of the usual build,
viz. of bamboo, and raised on muchauns. Filth and dirt abound every
where, and the places immediately contiguous to the huts are furnished
plentifully with various ordures.
Along the ridge three or four temples occur, these are of the
Boodhistical form: they are composed entirely of slate, are white-washed;
none are of any size, and the workmanship is rude in the extreme; on each
face of the square basement, slabs of slate with inscriptions are
visible, and in one instance many of these are ranged along a longish
wall. The Pagodas are surrounded with long banners, with inscriptions
fastened longitudinally to bamboos. On the west side of this the view is
remarkably pretty, embracing all the temples, part of the village, and
the Rajah's house. The hills adjoining being considerably diversified
and remarkable, and for India over picturesquely wooded.
The pucka houses are ungainly structures, the height being out of all
proportion to the width, the walls are very thick, and composed of slate
slabs, the roof is choppered with projecting eaves, the windows are very
narrow. Each has three stories, the middle one being occupied by the
owner, this is divided into several rude compartments, each of which has
one or two balconies.
The steps are rude and awkward, consisting of notches cut into large
blocks. The cooking is carried on, on the ground floor, much to the
edification of the residents above. Dirt abounds in every direction. The
doors are rudely constructed of wood.
_January 4th_.--To-day was occupied by moving up into the village, in
which we occupy a pucka house.
_January 5th_.--Visited the Sooba or Rajah, his house is very
picturesque, reminding me much of the pictures of Swiss cottages: it is
white-washed, with a red belt. The interior is capacious; the state room
has hangings, which are decorated with native pictures on cloth. At the
east end is a recess in which are some well-executed Chinese statues, the
chief figure is of large dimensions, and is intended to represent the
Durmah Rajah, whose statue is supposed to give infallibility. Two bells
were suspended, one from the centre, the other from the balcony, the
tongues of which were long, of ivory, and moved by a string. The Rajah
received us in state, amidst discordant sounds of horns, pipes, and
drums; his followers for the most part were badly clothed, the few decent
looking persons being only decent externally. He was seated on a raised
dais and was well dressed. He is a stout Chinese looking man, about 50
years old, and his deportment was certainly easy and dignified. The
meeting was very friendly, but it is evident that we shall be delayed
here at least seven days.
The central room in the Rajah's house is used as a guard house! arms were
fixed round the walls, but they seemed to consist chiefly of spears,
swords, and bucklers.
_January 6th_.--I walked this morning to a village, a mile to the west,
in which there is a picturesque pucka house of religion. What pleased me
especially was a specimen of a juniper, of extreme elegance, with
drooping branches. The house itself was of the usual form, and one end
was occupied as usual by an ornamental window and balcony. I noticed in
addition Ulmus and Quercus.
The vegetation hitherto seen about this, consists of mango trees, several
species of fig, among which were Ficus indica, elastica, terminalioides,
Papyrifera, etc. two with cordate leaves occur. Ulmus, Quercus, Bombax,
Juniperus and Pinus, both cultivated. Aralia or Panax, four or five
species, Croton malvaefolium, Justicia, Adhatoda, Peristrophe,
Amaranthaceae, Artemisia, Urtica urens? and heterophylla, Pogostemon,
Triumfetta, (these occupy the old cleared spots,) Castaneae sp.?
Artocarpus integrifolium, Erythrina, Sambucus ebulus, Rubi, three
species, Solanum farinaceum, Engeldhaardtia, Pandanus, Leptospartion,
Calamus, Nauclea, Euphorbia carnosa, foliis ligulatis, Artocarpus
chaplasha, the fruit of which is eaten, Phlebochiton extensus, Sedgwickia
cerasifolia, Callicarpa arborea, Porana, Randia, sugarcane, citrons,
tobacco.
The fauna contains two or three squirrels, one of which is the small one
of Upper Assam, Trocheloideus, the lesser Edolius or Drongo minor.
Mainas, two kinds, carrion crows, Bucco, Muscipeta flammea, and one or
two other species, Parus, two or three species, kites, large
tailor-birds, sparrows. The black-bird of the torrents, and the usual
water-birds, black pheasants; bulbuls very common, Bucco barbatus,
parroquets, barking deer.
The temperature being 58 degrees 61', water boiled at 208 degrees. The
mean of two observations accordingly gives the altitude as 2,165 feet
above the sea.
The number of houses is about 130, but these form two or three detached
villages. The population is considerable, and there is no want of
children. The people are stout and very fair, with ruddy cheeks, but
abominably dirty. Some of the men are six feet in stature. We had one
opportunity of witnessing their practice with the bow, but only two or
three of the dozen candidates were decent shots. The mark was a very
small one, and the distance 120 steps, but none hit it during the time we
looked on, nor even the circular patch of branches, on which the slab of
wood of this form was placed. The practice was accompanied with the
usual proportion of noise and gesticulations.
There is very little cultivation on the hills around, so that this people
are, at least about here, evidently dependent on the plains for their
supplies. The cattle are a good breed, and totally different from those
of the plains. Ponies and mules are by no means uncommon; there are
likewise pigs and fowls, both of which are abundant, and of fine
description.
_January 16th_.--Every thing leads me to conclude that the Booteas are
the dirtiest race in existence, and if accounts be true, they are equally
deficient in delicacy. Although much beyond other mountain tribes
inhabiting either side of the Assam valley, in the structure of their
houses, in their clothing, in their language, and probably in their
religion, they are inferior to them in other points. Thus their looms
are perhaps really primitive, and of the most simple construction;
neither in their weapons of defence are they at all superior.
On the 14th I ascended a peak to the eastward, and certainly 1,000 feet
above the village: on the summit of this, where there were the remains of
an old clearing, I observed Pyrus, Acer, Rhus, Tetrantherae, three or
four species, Bigonia species picta, Carex, Composita arborea, Pteris
aquilina, Kydia zyziphifolia, Saurauja, Eurya, Maesa Panax, Artemisia,
Hedyotis scandens, Callicarpa arborea, Camellia, Caelogyne, Oberonia,
Otochilus fuscescens, Ficus, Cinnamomum, AEschynanthus, Pholidota,
Cyrtandra, Piper, Citrus, Corysanthera, Hypoxis, Tupistra, Bambusa.
Sanicula appeared at 2,500 feet with Bartramea spectabilis, and a small
Ophiorhiza, Acer at 2,800 feet, as likewise Rhopala; at 2,000 feet,
Costus and Abroma, Thunbergia grandiflora.
_January 19th_.--I find that large quantities of Mungista or madder are
sent to the plains from this, where the plant is very common; it is
exchanged for ill preserved salt-fish, one bundle of madder for one fish.
This fish is of an abominable odour, and probably tends to increase the
natural savour of the Booteas, which, considering their total
unacquaintance with soap, is sufficiently strong.
P. tells me that the Kampo country is situated north of this, and that it
may be reached by a Kampo, in twenty-six days.
The language of the people we are now among, is distinct from that of
Assam, as will be observed from the names given to the common grains
cultivated in both countries, their principal grain is barley, which is
of a fine description; very little cultivation being carried on here, the
people drawing all their supplies from the plains. The following is a
list of grains cultivated: those marked * are Cerealea:--
_Assam_. _Bootea_.
1* Lalkonee dhan, Yungra, )Panici sp.
2* Legaid ditto, Ditto, )
3 _Boot_, Tel, Hnam, A Sesamum.
4 _Cultivation_ in Upper Assam, Braime, (Polygonum Fago-
(pyrum, grains
(very large.
5* Bhobosa, Khongpo, Eleusine sp.
6* Goomdam, Peihnam, Zea Mays.
7 Gellei-ma, Linjee, Phaseoli sp.
[Gradient Bootan: g204.jpg]
The palm from the cliffs on the road hither is evidently a species of
Phaenix, pinnulis inferioribus spiniformibus reticula copiosa, pinnulis
liniaribus acuminatissimus, apicem versus canaliculatis reticulo copioso,
the height must be about that of a moderate Areca. No specimens of the
trunk, none of flowers and seeds have been brought to me.
The temples here have a good deal of the Burmese shape, but the dome is
more like that of a Mussulman mosque.
_January 22nd_.--Yesterday evening Mr. Blake's Khidmutgar died rather
suddenly, he had been ailing for some days, but apparently not serious;
his indisposition was owing to over-loading the stomach with radishes,
etc. in which all partook too freely during the protracted halt, thus
causing a good deal of sickness.
This place is so straggling that it is difficult to make a guess at the
number of the houses, the greater number of the people are temporary
residents and mostly are natives of Kampo,{205a} they are more dirty than
the Booteas, and seem to have an especial predilection for begging. When
wishing to be very gracious they bow and gesticulate awkwardly, shewing
their tongue at the same time. Their principal dress is coarse woollen
clothes, and in lieu of turbans they wear caps or hats. Their beasts of
burden are principally asses, which are perhaps, from bad treatment,
undersized: they likewise use goats, and largish animals between goats
and sheep in appearance; of these we saw one male only, it had _once_
_spiral_ horns. Even a little black kid was not exempt from carrying its
share, this was ornamented by woollen tassels of a red colour, fastened
through a hole in the ear.
Pemberton tells me, that most of these people come hither with the view
of going to Hazoo, a place of pilgrimage in Assam; some remain here as a
security for the return of their brethren in three months, the period
during which leave is granted by our friend the Rajah of this place.
Their language is totally different from that of the Booteas. The day
before yesterday an edict against catching fish, being taken off as I
supposed it would be on shewing the Rajah some flies, Blake and I went
down, and repeated our visit yesterday; the bed of the river at the
debouchment of the path leading towards Tongsa, is elevated 1,431 feet,
(70.209.8), {205b} it is of no great size, and is generally fordable; the
fish are almost exclusively Bookhar. {205c} I saw one or two
Sentooreahs, {205d} and caught a long thin Bola, {206a} beautifully
banded with purplish-blue. The Bookhars as usual take a fly well,
especially red hackles; the largest was caught by Blake, and must have
weighed nearly three pounds.
Very little worth noticing occurred in the vegetation. Sedgwickia is
common and of very large size, 2,400 feet above the river, as well as
tree ferns.
Equisetum occurs in the bed of the river; in some places at the same
level a species of Ranunculus, Aroidea, Succulent Urticeae were common;
along the edges or in the small churs, that have established themselves
here and there, and which are covered with the usual Sacchara, but of
smaller size; Erythrina, Leptospartion, Sambucus, Boehmeria tomentosa,
Kydia calycina, Grislea, Tupistra, Leea occurred, Ficus elastica is not
uncommon, one specimen presented itself, which had sprung up on another
tree, fifty feet from the ground; this it had destroyed, and the
appearance was singular enough.
The juice is used for water-proofing bamboo vessels. The general rocks
are slate, and this was the only one we saw _in situ_; the vegetation
is rather barren.
Near the bed of this river, which is called the Deo Panee, I found a
curious Menispermous genus, Columnea, Clypeae perianthia uncialata, ore
integeriuscula, a Myrtacea, Uncaria, Abroma augusta, etc.
On ascending, Murraya exotica, Magnoliaceae, Paederia faetida, and
Bignonia, occurred at low elevations, Lobelia baccata, Wulfenia obliqua,
Costus, Chloranthus, Justicea orchidiflora below 600 feet, Eurya occurred
scarcely below 1,800 feet with Millingtonia simplicifolia.
The cattle here are really noble, particularly the bulls; they are much
like the Mishmee Methuns, but are distinct, {206b} they are very quiet.
_January 23rd_.--Left at twelve, and arrived late at Rydang on a
nullah, distant eight miles. Passed no villages, but passed a bridge
erecting over the Deo Nuddee, at which place a Lam Gooroo or high Priest
was employed: vegetation continued the same, and only two new plants
occurred, a Stemodia with large yellow flowers, and a Begonia, with
branched stems. Rydang is 2,404 feet above the sea (55.208.5.) {212}
_January 24th_.--Started early in the morning, (at 8 A.M.) the coolies
mostly leaving at daylight. Yet although the distance was only eleven
miles, we did not reach till 5 P.M. and many of the coolies did not
arrive till late at night. The fact is the ascent was nearly
uninterrupted during the day, the highest point traversed being about
6,000 feet. We then descended slightly to Khegumpe, our halting place,
the altitude of which is 5,395 feet (46.202,) at the highest point Fahr.
thermometer stood at 42 degrees at 1 P.M.
The first part of the road lay over grassy sparingly-forested hills,
until we reached 4,000 feet. Here or a little below this the change in
the vegetation commenced, the first elevational plants being Serissoid;
Gaultheria, and Rhododendron commenced at about 3,600 feet on dry rocky
eminences, which it always prefers.
On the 1st eminence, 600 feet above Rydang or 3,000 feet above the sea,
Quercus, Castanea, Sedgwickia, Polypodium Wallichii, Lobelia,
Pyramidalis, Composita arborea, Gordonia, Pteris aquilina, Anthistiria,
Gramen airoides, Callicarpa arborea, Artemisia, Tephrosia, Flemingia,
Govania, and these continued up to 4,000 feet. We here met with Kampo
Tartars with their laden sheep, the children being generally placed
cradle-fashion on the top of the loads, each in its own basket. Itea
macrophylla occurred at 3,200 feet, with Clematis, Hastingsia, Bignonia,
Euphorbiacea, Briedleia.
At 3,300 feet Kydia zyziphifolia, Rhopala, Composita arborea, Hypericum,*
Triumfetta, Smilax, Indigofera.*
At 3,600 feet, the same with Panax, Wendlandia, Myrtacea arborea, l.
Melica latifolia.
At 3,800 feet, Hedychium, Gaultheria, Habenaria, Serissoides, Gnaphalium,
Gordonia, here very abundant, covered with Lichens and epiphytical
Orchidea, Phyllanthus, Emblica.
At 4,000 feet, Rhododendron arborea, Eugenia, l. Gaultheria arborea,
Echinanthus, Bambusa, microphylla.* The same trees continue.
At 4,200 feet, Hedychium, Briedleia, Pyrus, Ficus,* and Rhododendron in
flower, Gordonia, Itea macrophylla, Pteris aquilina, Osbeckia nepalensis,
Artemisia major, Airoides, Flemingia.
At 4,500 feet, Myrica, Callicarpa arborea, Verbenaceae, Buddlaeoid,*
Ardisia, Maesa, Panax, Piper, Styrax, Camellia,* Polygonum rhaeoides,
Cyrthandra common, Mimosa arborea, Betula,* Ficus, foliis cordatis
hispidis, Kydia calycina, Inga, Rubus moluccanus. Anisadenia, Begonia,
Otochilus latifolius, Tussilaginoides, Neckerae, Urtica, Gaylussacia,
Lobelia, Panax, AEschynanthus venosus of Churra,* Lycopodium of
Surureem,* Smilax ruscoideus,* Liparis, Rhododendron arboreum verum,
Bucklandia of vast size. Hoya fusca, Ophiopogno, Viola, Hymenophyllum,
Croton heterophyllum, Convallaria oppositifolia, Plectranthus Roylii,
Begonia picta, Isachne, Cerastium, Spiraea, Hedera, Hypericum,
Peliosanthes, Carex gracilis rupium, which commenced at 5,500 feet,
Bambusa microphylla.
The forests here were damp and tropical so far as herbaceous underwoods
were concerned, the trees were loaded with mosses chiefly pendulous
Neckerae and Hypnea, as well as the rocks, Epiphytes were common.
We then continued along ridges about the same elevation, Ranunculus,
Hemiphragma, Thibaudia buxifolia, Polygonum rheoides, Pyrus indica.
Gnaphalium common, Pteris aquilina, Airoides, Artemisia on sunny spots,
Gaultheria, Galium of Churra, Arundo. The trees were about this all
scraggy, but of picturesque appearance. Choripetalum, Panax, Laurineae,*
Piper, Cissus, Photinia and Gleichenia major, Thibaudia myrtifolia,*
Potentilla, Calophyllum,* Hydrangea arbuscula,* Thalictrum majus,*
Crawfurdia speciosa,* Macrocapnos,* Daphne papyrifera.*
Our march now wound round a huge hill with rocky head, lowering several
hundred feet above us, the road being narrow, rocky, overhanging vast
precipices. All the trees were scraggy, stunted with tufted grasses.
Here about Dipsacus of Churra occurred, Buddleia, Phlomoides, Lonicera,
Rosa, _Jubrung_, Cheilanthes dealbata of Brahmakund, Asparagus, Urticea
arborea floribus faem. capitulatis aurantiaces, Spiraea bella,
Hymenopogon, Saxifraga ligularis,* on the rocks Primula,* in the
crevices, with Hydrocotyla, Thalictrum renatum, Umbelliferae,* Scirpus,
Stemodia, Compositae, Hypericum, Didymocarpus contortus of Oklong,
Erianthus, Gymnostomum, all these on the bare rocks. Along the path,
Codonopsis, Cnicus, Valeriana, Hardwickia, Lobelia.
Hence we passed along nearly at the same elevation through romantic
paths, the vegetation being European, and comparatively open: the trees
covered with moss, with grassy swards here and there: the scenery was
beautiful, the descent hence to Khegumpa was gradual and easy, along
similar paths.
Noticed the following trees, etc. in the following order: Tetranthera,
Gaultheria arborea, Tradescantia cordifolia,* Acer, Polygala, Deutzia,
Tradescantia, Jasminum triphyllum, Plectranthus azureus, Macrocapnos,
Rubia cordifolia,* Cucurbitacae Cissampeloid, then forests of
Rhododendron, on the paths Swertia, Potentilla, Fragaria, Alnus Acer
folius palmatum lobatis oppositis, Porana.
This day I gathered about 130 species, the march was really delightful.
The plants marked thus * indicate elevation.
Madder is furnished by both Rubia munjista and R. cordifolia, these
species are quite distinct, the latter affecting greater elevations than
the former, scarcely descending below 4,000 feet.
Scarcely any water occurred on the route; from just above Khegumpa, a
beautiful valley is seen to the left, with a good deal of cultivation. No
large villages were seen.
[Gradient Rydang to Khegumpa: g210.jpg]
_January 25th_.--Khegumpa. This is a pretty place; but the whole
country has a wintry appearance from the trees having mostly deciduous
leaves; it is a small village, not containing twelve houses. Pagodas
with the inscription-bearing walls occur as usual; on a small hill rising
from just below the village, a large house with out-houses belonging to a
Lam Gooroo, is the prettiest bit of architecture I have yet seen. We put
up in a small house, of the usual poor construction, capable of
containing four or six people, the roofs are of wood, the planks being
kept down by stones. The evening was very cold, but the thermometer did
not fall below 44 degrees. Here a solitary specimen of Pinus was seen.
A beautiful tree, with pendulous leaves and cones, which resemble those
of Abies, occurred. Rhododendron is common here. Around the hut I
observed Lobelia, Rumex, Quercus, Ranunculus, Plantago, Leucas ciliata,
Gnaphalia, Rubus, Urtica urentior, Rubi 2, Pteris aquilina, Geranium,
Galium, Artemisia major, Fragariae, Betula? ramis pendulis, foliis
lineari lanceolatis, _Jubrung_, Phlomoides, in flower, Spiraea bella,
Tetranthera, Daucus, Gleichenia major, Oxalis corniculata, Dipsacus. The
trees were covered with Lichens; the only cultivated plants I saw, and of
these only straggling individuals, were tobacco and Bhobosa.
In a wood at the base of the hill on which the Lam Gooroo's house is
situated, Saurauja hispida, and S. arborea,* Woodwardia,* Rubia
cordifolia, Oaks, Spiraea bella, decomposita, Stemodia, Cerasus,
Curculigo, Pogonatherum,* Carduus, Polygonum rheoides, Panax, Bucklandia,
Berberis asiatica and Porana, occurred.
Our march, after passing this hill, commenced by a descent through a damp
wood of Oaks, Eurya. Here Swertiae 2 occurred on banks. Clematis
verbesina, Gordonia, Erythrina, Myrica. Thence we passed along a ridge,
the forests being stunted and wintry, abounding with Rhododendron and
oaks. Myrica, and pendulous lichens occurred in abundance, but grasses
predominate, chiefly Airoid and Andropogons.
From this to the right was seen a beautiful valley with a moderate-sized
village and picturesque houses, with considerable and very clever
cultivation.
Thence we crossed to the other side of the ridge, descending a little and
then continuing through forests of oak, consisting of a species found on
the Khasyah hills, and approaching Q. Robur: as all the leaves had
fallen, the whole appearance was that of winter. Here I shot the Jay
figured in Royle's work: continuing to descend very gradually, I observed
Epilobium,* Neckera, Fissidens, Brachymenium, Nerioideum in fruit and
half buried in the fallen leaves; a pretty Gentiana, Ruta albiflora,
Potentilla. After passing along this for some way we commenced a sharp
descent. At about 4,800 ft. Vitex simplex, occurred. Indigofera
re-appeared, with Saccharum rubro nitens of Churra, the other grasses
being Andropogons, 2-3, and Orthopogon, Hedychium, Gordonia soon
re-appeared: to the east, cultivation was visible, and to the north,
Pines were visible in every direction stretching away far below us to a
considerable torrent. About one-third of the way down this steep ravine,
at the bottom of which a torrent was heard roaring, Wendlandia, Spiraea
bella, Hedychium, Gaultheria arborea, Aspera Rhododendron, Pteris
aquilina, Artemisia, Saurauja hispida, Indigofera, Eurya, Mimosa arborea,
Maesa angustifolia of yesterday; Osbeckia nepalensis, Viburnum,
Tetranthera, Ficus, Gleichenia minor, Crawfurdia speciosa, Polygonum
rheoides, were found. Hitherto the woods had been dry, or rather so, but
on turning to the east, we came into damp woods presenting many tropical
features, along which we continued descending gradually for some time: at
the commencement in this, Callicarpa arborea, a weeping Beech, Dipsacus
verbesina, and the Alnus, of Thumathaya occurred, Arbutoideus, Hydrangea,
Urtica heterophylla, Neuropeltoid aromatica. Then below we came on
Piper, Deeringia, Cerasus, Sanicula, Cyrtandracea, Cheilosandra gracilis,
and fleshy Urticeae. Underwood, herbaceous forms of Acanthaceae, Ferns,
as Davallia, Asplenium, all more or less succulent. Darea, Glycine,
Buchanania, Saurauja ferruginea, Thalictrum majus, Pothos, etc.
Hypericum, Begonia, Panax terebinthaceus, Magnoliacae, Garciniae,
Valeriana cordifolia.* Passing on at the same elevation, we suddenly
rounded a ridge, and in one moment came on dry, sunny, rocky, grassy
ground, the trees being exclusively Rhododendron, oaks and a few
Gordonias with Airoid, Andropogons, Pteris aquilina: we then came on the
brink of the ridge up to which Pinus longifolia ascends; the elevation of
this was 4,132 feet (60.204.5.) {212} From this all around Pinus is
visible in profusion; we then dipped to the south, this face being
occupied by thick forest, having Rhododendrons on the skirts. From the
above spot Saleeka was visible, with a fine grove of Pines, it is 1,500
feet, at least above this.
The descent was steep, we soon came on Callicarpa arborea, Celtis megala,
Pogostemon, Stemodia grandiflora; this was about 4,300 feet, where a
clearing had been commenced: close to this I observed Martynia, Pteris,
Composita arborea, Desmodium vestilum, Flemingia, and gathered at 4,000
feet a Verbenaceous shrub, looking like a Plumbago, and a Boehmeria;
continuing, without descending much, I came on Pinus, Rhododendron,
Gaultheria.
Loranthus was here a common parasite on Pinus, oaks occurred but the
species was changed; this had small leaves, white underneath; and
descending we continued through pine woods, Artemisia minor, together
with the usual grasses and Aspideium macrosomum.
Here we travelled along a hill just above a ravine. Either side of this
was covered with grasses and pines, the ravine being crowded with oaks,
etc. Panax, and Composita arborea occurred.
A little below this, Hastingsia, common, Desmodium hispidisum, Artemisia
minor, Briedelia, Mimosa, and several Compositae: we continued descending
very steeply, and observed Holcus elegans, Melica latifolia, Erianthus
Apludoid Circium.
At 2,600 feet, came on Scutellaria; Pines had ceased, but on the opposite
side of the nullah, they descended lower. Knoxia scandens, Kydia
calycina, Hastingsia, Hedyotis linearis, Ficus pedunculis radiciformibus
pendulis, Leguminous trees as Dalbergia, Triumfetta; Boehmeria,
Asparagus, Buchanania again, Solanum, 10-dentat., Urtica urens,--l.
(66.208.5.) {212}
The altitude of the bed of the Cameon nullah is here, 1,937 feet, its
banks are formed by hills cut away and hence precipitous, those to the
east are covered with Pines, Oaks descend to this. Here Arundo Karka,
Leptospartion, Erythrina, Artemisia major, Solanum farinaceum, black
pheasants of which I shot a male. Ficus Dumooriya, Grislea, Rhamnoid
scandens, Pandanus, Boehmeria torrentum, Urtica pendula, Barleria
Prionites of Dgin, Sida cuneifolia, Dalbergioid.
Thence we ascended 100 feet or thereabouts, and descended to another and
larger torrent. Anonaceae, Phlogacanthus thyrsifloris here occurred.
The bed of this stream is 70 to 80 yards wide, but the volume of water is
inconsiderable. The hills forming the opposite bank are lofty, not under
4 to 5,000 feet; their bases and the nullah above alluded to have the
vegetation of Dgin, otherwise they are clothed with the usual grasses and
noble Pines. The brown bird with crooked bill was heard here.
At 500 feet above the torrent Menispermum, Bidens albiflora, Megala,
Leptospartion, Verbenacea, Plumbaginea, Mucuna, Desmodium hispidum and
Ficus were seen as before: Phyllanthus, Emblica, and Grislea occurred at
800 feet: Grewia at 1,000 feet: and Osbeckia linearis occurred at 1,200
feet in rocky places; with Poa, Cynosuroides of Churra, and Bassia at
1,300 feet, with Emblica, Labiata sudyensis, Osbeckia nepalensis, Ficus.
On rounding the ridge to the east, which is 200 feet above this place
_Sassee_, we came on a forest of oak, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Pothos
pinnatus.
_January 26th_.--Sassee. Our coolies left us here, they are not very
good ones, not equal to Khasyah, they are however merry, and whistle or
sing when tired, their feet are generally naked, but occasionally they
wear leathern sandals. Thermometer 60 degrees: water boiled at 204.5
degrees: altitude 4,109 feet.
About this place I first met with Thlaspi bursa pastoris, Malva
rotundifolia also occurs, Ligustrum, Adhatoda! Euphorbia ramis 4-gonis,
foliis? in spinis abeuntibus! Bambusa, Urtica urentior, Geranium, Rumex
of Khegumpa, Pancratium or Crinum! Peristropha triflora, Holcus elegans,
Pteris aquilina both Artemisias, Panicum cynosuroides! Stemodium
ruderalis! Callicarpa arborea! Cerasus, Pyrus indica and malus, Barleria
prionitis! Ervum, Hedychium coronarioides! in wet places, Buchanania,
Peperomia, Moschosma! Dendrobium! Thibaudia myrtifolia, Gordonia,
Dioscorcae! Tetrantheroid arbor magna, Pinus longifolia, Quercus, 2-sp.
Rhus, Citrus also is found. Thus the mixture of forms is nearly
excessive, those marked ! thus indicate usually low elevations. Rubia
cordifolum.
The whole four leaves of this plant are petiolate, but one pair is
perhaps always unequal, one occasionally abortive, I look upon this as a
proof that the so-called stipulae of Stellatae are real leaves. There is
this difference then between Rubiaceae and Stellatae, the one has covered
buds, the other not. The development of the lamine before the petiole is
particularly conspicuous in this plant.
Buck-wheat with trisulcate seeds, and Cannabis sativa are found here;
barley is cultivated.
_January 27th_.--Sassee: temperature 58 degrees, big metal thermometer.
Tomato found here; Leptospartion ascends woody ravines as far as this; of
birds, the larger dove is abundant; Verbena officinalis.
_January 28th_.--On walls about this a Lobelia, and Stemodia ruderalis
occurred. Sassee is a ruined village, said once to have been large, now
containing not more than five or six houses, an equal number being in
ruins.
_January 29th_.--Commenced to descend almost immediately, until we
reached the Giri Nuddee, we then ascended again 5,600 feet, and continued
over excessively precipitous rocky ground, until we reached the nullah
again.
The same vegetation continued until we had descended some hundred feet.
Pinus, Quercus, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Indigofera, Osbeckia nepalensis,
Desmodium, Gaultheria arborea, Rubus, deltoidifolius, Conyza, Saurauja
ferruginea, Crawfurdia speciosa, Labiata sudyensis, Dipsacus occurs but
is rare, Gordonia, Rubus idaeus, Gleichenia minor, Pendulous lichens,
Galium asparagus, Engeldhaardtia, Smilax.
The descent was steep. Thibaudia myrtifolia, Peperomia, Stemodia
grandis, Airoid, Otochilus linearis.
At 300 feet Composita arborea, and penduliflora, Polygonum rheoides,
Flemingia, and a cleared spot with Zea Mays. 400 feet Pteris aquilina,
Rubus moluccanus, Aspidium Polypodioides, Lygodium, Aspidium macrosorum,
Moschosma, Mimosa arborea, Millet, Cerasus, Hedyotis, Plectranthus,
Roylia, Knoxia Scandens, Ruta albiflora, Rottlera, commenced at 500 feet.
Stemodia, Hovenia, Cerastium, 4-Ovulatum, Carex.
[Gradient Khegumpa to Sassee: g216.jpg]
Carex, Kydia, Jujubifolia, Randia, Hovenia, occurred at 600 feet, with
Rhopala, Panax, Ficus obliqua.
Then shady jungle commenced, underwood of Ferns, Acanthaceae, Urticeae,
Andropogons, Stemodia secunda occurred at 700 feet. {217a} Hastingsia,
Pogostemon, Kydia calycina, Glypea, Curculigo, 750 feet, with Clematis
Cana, Cerasus, Quercus Robur, this came down a ridge. Rhus acidissima.
Scleria, Lycopodia, Maesa, Sterculia Balanghas, and Kydia Jujubifolia, at
900 feet. {217a} Phlomoides, Acanthacea specicosa, Pothos pinnatus,
Choulmoogrum, Malpighiacea, at 1,000 feet. {217a} Buchanania, Magnolia,
Achyranthes, Murraya exotica, Sedgwickia, Urtica Gigas, Chloranthus
inconspicuus, Peliosanthes, Phaenix pygmaea, Hedysarum acenaciferum, at
1,200 feet. {217a}
The altitude of the bed here is 3,112 feet (64.206.2: of Woollaston,
6.4.3) {217b} and along its banks Cissus, Woodwardia, Megala, Polygonum
Rheoides, Mimosa arborea, Curculigo, Woodwardia, Andropogon fuscum,
Conaria, Potentilla, Rumex, Rubia cordifolia, Drymaria, and Begonia
occurred.
The ascent was steep, leading over several land slips, the same
vegetation continuing. Oaks, Pines, Rhododendrons occupying the more
exposed faces, and the usual humid jungle characterising aspects not so
much exposed. Pinus longifolia strays down to within 100 feet of the
nullah. We passed a pretty cascade discharging a considerable body of
water: here at 200 feet {217a} above the nullah, I observed Crotalaria
juncea, the Betula of Thumathaya, Quercus lanatus, Leea crispa, Panax
terebinthaceus, Indigofera, Scutellaria, Clematis, Cana, Panax altera,
Mimosa, Porana, Arundo karka, Flemingia, Conyza, Aspidium macrosomum.
At 400 feet, {217a} Itea macrophylla, Ficus, Composita arborea. The
woods are dry, but little occurring underneath the trees, except the
usual grasses, Andropogons and Airoides. At 500 feet, {217a} Thibaudia
myrtifolia, Triumfetta mollis, Composita penduliflora, Lysimachia, Pinus,
Rhododendron. The ground now became excessively rocky, the road winding
along at the same elevation, not more than a foot wide.
At 600 feet, {217a} Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia, Acanthacea lurida,
Gentiana, as before. Gordonia, Bambusa, Microphylla, Arum viviparum,
Tussilaginoid, Wendlandia, Thibaudia, _variegatoides_, and a myrtifolia;
Sedum, rocks strewn in every direction covered with Sedum and epiphylical
orchideae.
On rounding a ridge with a north-east aspect we came without altering our
elevation, on a humid jungle. Pothos pinnatus and red, Ferns,
Acanthaceae, Choripetalum, Calamus, Acrostichea, Blakea, Grammitis
decurrens, Moschosma. We descended through similar jungle with Pandanus
also occurring until we again changed our aspect, when the oak woods,
etc. reverted with Rhododendron and Thibaudia myrtifolia; again changing,
we returned to an intermediate jungle, gradually assuming all the humid
characters of those places passed before. Here I observed Tupistra,
Asplenium nidus, at 200 feet above the bed of a nullah. Rottleria,
Mimosa arborea, Crawfurdia, Speciosa, Zanthoxzlon triphyllum.
Along the bed of this nullah, Crawfurdia speciosa, Potentilla,
Choripetalum, Eurya, Ranunculus, Cardamina, Juncus! Oxyspora, Saurauja
hispida, occurred; some in a sort of marsh, with Thibaudia variegatoides.
The places along which torrents formerly flowed were occupied by Typha
elephantina, Kujara, Megala, Arunda, the Alnus of Bhailseeree, Artemisia
major, Rubus deltoidifolia, (Corysanthera hispida with Juncus;) here
Anthistiria arundinacea, Artemisia minor, Bucco grandis (Bird), Polygonum
rheoides, Baehmeria torrentum, Gaultheria deflexa, Indigofera, Oaks,
Gordonia, Holcus elegans, Conaria nepalensis in flower, and Erythrina
occurred along the bed, up which we proceeded about a mile.
We then ascended among Pines and Oaks, Callicarpa arborea, and others,
ascending up the humid ravines, which in the rains give exit to
torrents--at 300 feet noticed a different Pinus, which is observed in
abundance on a mountain on the opposite side, up which it ascends 2 or
3,000 feet.
Callicarpa azurea, Buddleia Neemda, Eugenia, Serissoides, and the
Saccharum of Churra, occurred here.
The ascent was continual but gradual, rounding the almost precipitous
face of the hill, the path was stony, often loose and frequently not
above a foot wide, with a precipice lowering above and yawning beneath.
The vegetation had, with the exception of the Pines, Oaks, and
Rhododendrons, all been burnt, so that the ascent was uninteresting. As
we neared the summit it became bitterly cold, a strong biting wind nearly
cutting us in two: we reached Bailfa, which is on the summit but
sheltered, at 6 P.M.
Conaria occurs at the top! being more advanced in flower than below; in
one instance with young capsules. I noticed Pogonatherum, Didymocarpus
contortus, Serissoides, Gaultheria fruticosa, Polytrichum fuscum,
gathered at 7,000 feet, previously: at 1,200-1,500 feet above the nullah,
Indigofera reaches the top. In a sheltered place here I found a
beautiful Gaultheria; a small Campanula occurs on the rocks at from 1,000
feet upwards.
BAILFA or _Bulphai_.--This place is 6,808 feet above the level of the
sea, yet on the east and south are mountains towering far above it. Snow
is said to fall in February, but sparingly--the hills around are bleak,
thinly vegetated, except those on the south of the Geerea, which are more
wooded. There are only a few houses. Turnips and barley are cultivated
here, and in these fields may be found a Cruciferous annual, and probably
a small species of Lamium. The chief cultivation is visible in the
valleys below. Buckwheat is among the number.
_January 29th_.--To-day I sallied out a few hundred yards to the west,
on turning over the ridge, the south side of which is so bleak, thinly
covered with Q. lanata and Rhododendrons, I found myself in a thick shady
jungle, the chief tree being a species of oak, widely different from Q.
lanata. The trees and shrubs are loaded with mosses, especially
pendulous Neckerae, Daltoniae, Hypne; Hookeria, Fissidens, etc. occurred
on the ground. I imagine, I gathered twenty-five species of mosses here.
Ferns were likewise abundant; I noticed Daphne papyracea, Berberis
asiatica, Conyza nivea, Smilax ruscoides, OEschynanthus venosus, Hedera,
Ophiopogon linearis, O. latifolius, Cymbidium viridiflorium, Ardisia
crenata, Carex, Piper! Clematis, Gordonia, Spiraea decomposita, Composita
volkamerifolia, Cissus, Smilax, Bambusa microphylla, Viburna, as before.
Gaylussacia serrata and microphylla, the former in fruit. Thibaudia
lanceolata, buxifolia, Gaultheria of yesterday.
On the exposed face Santalacea, Gentiana, Hypericum decussatum of
Moflong, Leucas ciliata, Ischaemum pygmaeum, on Rhododendron, Loranthus
obovatus. The mosses of this side were Brachymenium, Tortula, Famaria,
Trichostomum, Neckerae, Polytrichum fuscum, Zygodon? Dendrobium and
Otochilus, occur here. A stray and small Abies occurs on the ridge
itself.
About the village of Bailfa, occur Urtica urens, Artemisia major,
Saccharum aristatum, Rubus triphyllus, Senecio scandens, Rumex,
Chickweed, Stemodia ruderailis, Lactucoidea murorum, Carduus, Phlomoides,
Rubus deltoidifolies, Achyranthoid, densa.
_January 30th_.--Thermometer at 7 A.M. 40 degrees. The houses here are
roofed with split bamboos, and they are tied on by rattans, a precaution
rendered necessary by the boisterous winds which prevail. The place is
very cold; the thermometer varying from 40 degrees to 52 degrees; mean
temperature of the day 46 degrees.
In the barley fields I noticed Fumariae sp., Potentilla and Cynoglossum.
Erythrina ascends to this! Pyrus Malus and Spiraea bella occur.
_January 31st_.--Our march this day commenced with an ascent of a ridge
lying to the north-east of our halting place, this occupied us some time,
and at last we reached a pagoda, visible from Bailfa, and which is nearly
1,000 feet above that place. Thence we descended about a hundred feet,
through a well-wooded situation. Emerging thence at about the same
elevation, we crossed barren bleak downs; the ravines being alone wooded,
and hence the woods had that rounded, defined appearance, so remarkable
in some parts of the Khasya hills.
Thence the descent was continued to Roongdong, the march is an easy one,
about seven miles.
The first new plant that occurred was an Allium on rocks, but it had been
dried up by the fires which had bared the surface of the hill of every
thing, except the trees and stouter shrubs, capable of resisting its
action.
Toward the pagoda, on the summit of the ridge, Pendulous lichens were
abundant, Epiphytes were common, consisting chiefly of Orchideae, with
the 2 Gay Lussacias, Rhododendron punctata, Hymenopogon parasiticus,
Orthodon, Tussilaginoid, Alnus occurred at 7,300 feet. The other
vegetation continued.
At 7,400 feet, a new Quercus appeared, this, which has in its young
state, leaves much like those of the Holly, and may therefore be called
Q. _elicifolia_! Andropogon, Viburnum caerulium, Neckera, Bambusa
microphylla, Fragaria, Potentilla, Conyza nivea, Scabiosa Spiraea
decomposita, Gillenioides, Smilax ruscoideus, Hyperica of Moflong,
Campanula, Swertia, Dipsacus.
At 7,500 feet, Epilobium, Rosa, Vaccinium cyaneum! Rhododendron
coccineum, Tetranthera.
At 7,800 feet, Abies pendulifolia, Hemiphragma.
At the pagoda, and about it, Grimmia was found on rocks, with the usual
pendulous Neckerae, Q. ilecifolia, Vibura, Hypericum.
Abies Brunoniana, a large solitary tree, with pendulous branches,
Tetranthera, Laurineae, Smilax gaultherifolia, Ilex, on the wooded side
of the ridge. Ferns and mosses were abundant, Ilex! Daphne papyracea.
Eurya, Panax rhododendrifolia, Rhododendron arborea, minus et majus. The
tree of Thumathaya foliis ad apicem ramorum aggregatis, petiolis
colorat., Celastrinea Euryifolia, Tetranthera another species without
leaves. In the more moist places a small Urticeae, Lonicera as before,
on the exposed side stunted Q. ilecifolia, Dipsacus, Gnaphalia, Vaccinium
cyaneum, and Gramineae, Hemiphragma, Potentilla, Campanula,
Tussilaginoides. Long tailed grey monkeys.
The ridge we crossed, runs up into a bleak ridge on which are houses, and
which cannot be under 9,500 feet high, about the descent through the
wood, which did not extend many hundred yards. I noticed Galium,
Valeriana, Crawfurdia fasciculata, Sphaeropteris Betula corylifolia,
Hypericum, Spiraea gillenioides, Rubus cordifolius, Senecio scandens,
Juncus effusoideus, in wet places, Rhododendron majus, coming into
flower, (flower white) Cerastium bacciferum, arborea, canescens, Cissus,
Rubus moluccanus, Elaeagnus, Rubus potentillifolia, Plantago, Ligustrum,
Berberis pinnata and asiatica, which last is generally covered with
lichens.
Xanthoxylum, Lilium giganteum! Polytrichium fuscescens, Trichostomum
anielangioides, Pohlia, on walls and rocks, Adoxa! in wet places under
banks, with a fleshy Urticea: about this was observed the brick-red and
black bird. {221}
Along the naked ridge and on the downs, which had a most wintry
appearance, and where it was bitterly cold, the Lycopodium of Surureem
was found, also Vaccinium cyaneum, Gnaphalium, Pteris aquelina stunted,
Hypericum of Moflong, Swertia stunted, Hemiphragma.
The defined woods are formed of oaks and stray Abies pendulifolia, Panax
rhododendrifolia, Berberis asiatica, and B. pinnata.
Mespilus microphyllus, Rhododendron minus, and R. arborea, (Euphorbia,
and Juncus on the swards.) Eurya, Gaultheria arborea, Stauntonia. From
this ridge a village near Benka is visible, as well as a large stream,
the Goomrea, and several villages. The one we now inhabit, being the
best looking and occupying a deep valley, is surrounded with much terrace
cultivation.
Descending still farther we left the downs, first coming into the scraggy
woods of Oaks, Rhododendron, Quercus, chiefly Q. robur. About here we
met abundance of people going to Hazoo from Kampo; they were accompanied
with asses chiefly carrying burdens of one maund weight; few goats; one
yak was seen of a black colour; a low compact animal, much resembling,
except in the absence of a hump, the bison: it was not a handsome
specimen. We also passed a village to the left, containing about twenty
houses, here a Nai gooroo, or person of rank, resides, and here I also
got fruit-bearing specimens of Abies pendula.
Noticed, as I descended, Pyrus, Cerasus, Magnoliacea, Gaultheria arborea
and frutex, Pteris aquelina, Quercus sclerophylla of Bulphai, Viburnum
caerulescens and angustifola! Rhododendron minus, Ilex! Aspid. nidus,
Gordonia, Q. lanata, Woodwardia, Rubia albiflora, Gleichenia major, Pyrus
indica. Then we came to a pretty temple built like a house, with a fine
specimen of Cypress pendula, altitude of the place 7,000 feet. From this
a fine view of Roondong is obtained.
Still descending a short distance came to another temple, with a dome of
the ordinary form, and a large square terraced basement, and inscribed
slabs in the recesses. Hence the ascent was very steep. Erythrinum,
Buddleia! Indigofera! Spiraea bella, Artemisia major! Polygonum rheoides!
Rubus deltoidens! Curculigo, Conaria nepalensis, Thalictrum majus!
Asparagus, Jubrung! Oxalis corniculata, Clematis cana, Eurya ferruginea!
Santalacea australas, Pyrus malus! Elaeocarpus! Maesa salicifolia. We
then crossed a small torrent, and ascended about 100 feet to Roongdong;
noticed Stemodia grandiflora! Spiraea bella, Conaria, Erythrium, Elaeagnus
spinosus, Salix? buds with velvet or woolly hairs, Martynia! Hedera!
Citrus! Woodwardia.
The transitions of the flora were this day well shewn. The plants which
indicated the greatest elevation are, Vaccinium, Abies Brunoniana,
Saxifraga, or Adoxa, Q. ilecifolia, Rhododendron formosum, R. arboreum
majus, Sphaeropteris, Ilex, Eurya acuminata? Panax rhododendrofol., Berb.
pinnata and B. asiatica, Mespilus, Microphylla, Juncus.
The occurrence of the Urticea at such elevation is curious, the proofs of
the wonderful effects of humidity, and non-exposure were particularly
shewn, between the exposed south face of the Bulphai mountain, and the
north-east face which was wooded.
From scarcity of grass, horses were here seen to feed on boughs so high
as to be obliged to stand on stones, to get at their food. They are
likewise fed on maize and tares; the poultry is of a large brood. The
cocks are atrociously noisy, two in particular had such lengthened,
cracked or quavering voices, that they were quite a nuisance. We put up
in the house of the Dumpa or head man. It is situated on the top of a
stony, and a bitter cold place, exposed to the four winds of heaven.
House very large, and our host a little man with great airs, and a red
coat or wrapper of coarse English cloth, drinks intensely.
During our stay at this place he invited Pemberton and Blake to shoot
pigeons; the poor man thought that they would not be able to hit them, on
finding out his mistake, he put an end to the sport.
Atriplex is cultivated here, Mooreesa of Assam, Hempstee of the Booteas,
though seeds are used as well as the leaves.
The loads of salt brought down by the Tibetans on asses are packed up
neatly in coarse cloths, and weigh upwards of forty seers each.
[Gradient Bulphai to Roongdong: g224.jpg]
_February 1st_.--Our march commenced by descending gradually at first,
then very rapidly to the Dimree nuddee: crossing this at the junction of
two streams, we ascended a little and then kept along the side of the
ridge forming the right bank of the nuddee, until we came over the
Monass: thence proceeding about one and a half mile, we reached Tassgong
or Benka which is situated on this river, and about 1,000 feet above it.
This we crossed by a suspension bridge.
But little interesting botany occurred to-day: Chenopodium sp. occurs in
fields at Roongdong. The terrace cultivation here had just yielded a
crop of rice, and was now planted with wheat. Agriculture would appear
to be at a low ebb, and if the country is populous, the people must be
half-starved.
Water was abundant throughout the route: the Monass is a large stream,
but not generally very deep, although from its rapidity it must discharge
even at this season a great body of water. Composita penduliflora
descends to the Dimree, the altitude of which is about 3,000 feet, so in
fact did most of the plants found about Roongdong. Pyrus continues half-
way, Rhododendron to the bottom. Hovenia at an altitude of 5,000 feet,
Randia--as also Tetranthera oleosa, and a new Flemingia.
At 4,900 feet, _Jubrung_ occurs.--Clematis Cana, Luculiae sp., Conyzoidea
nivea, Kydia calycina, Mimosa arborea, began at 4,800 feet: Gaultheria,
arborea, Gordonia, descend to the bottom: Crawfurdia speciosa, Oxyspora,
Aspidium, Macrostomium, and Polypodioides, Saurauja hispida, Hypericum,
Spiraea bella, Gillenioinis, Quercus, Rubus, and Viburnum caerulescens. A
tree yielding lac, which had lately been cut, and Meliaceae, Rhus
triphyllum. Hence some snow was visible on a lofty ridge above our
heads, at least 9,500 feet, the snow descending a considerable way down
ravines. Of birds, Bulbuls and Bucco, were here observed.
At --- feet, Leguminosa arborea, Loranthus Scurrula, Kydia Wendlandia,
Celtis, Osbeckia nepalensis, a Vitex, Grislea, Pteris aquilina,
Indigofera! Acanthacea caerulea.
At --- feet, Triumfetta mollis, Composita arborea, Pterospermum,
fructibus 10-valvibus, valvis lobatibus, Sem. alatis. Santalacea
australasica, here a large shrub.
At the nullah, Fici sp., Saccharum Megala, Verbenacia? foliis apice craso
lobatis. On the opposite side, Pinus longifolia, to within 200 feet of
the nullah, Phlebochiton extensus! Solanum farinaceum! Achyranthes densa!
a Plumbaginacea which is a Paederioid Rubiacea, and another Ficus,
Hastingsia, Bassia, Labiata Sudyensis, Grislea, very common, Emblica,
Ficus obliquus were found along the road, after crossing the nullah. The
ridge of the mountain was rocky, barren, covered chiefly with grasses,
the Butea of Nurtung, Artemisia minor, Umbelliferae, Desmodium vestilum,
Kalanchoe, also occurred. At the few houses below our path, we saw
plantains! and bamboos as well as mangoes! The terraces here are fronted
with stones: Lemna occurred in water; Linaria on rocks; Conaria and a
fleshy Euphorbia, this last, about villages.
The occurrence of plantains and mangoes here is curious, and a sure sign
of mild climate, as Kalanchoe is of dryness; nothing could well exceed
the barrenness of the road, from crossing Dumria to Benka.
Benka is a straggling place, built on a ridge overhanging the Monass, and
on exceedingly rugged ground, the north face of the ridge being nearly
equally steep; the southern face, contains about fifty houses, all of
which are small and a few in ruins. The only large house is the Rajah's,
which is said to be of Chinese construction.
This day the Rajah paid us a visit; a tent was pitched for his reception
on the open ground before our house, consisting of a small silken pall,
with two high silken parti-coloured kunnauts. He arrived about eleven,
preceded and succeeded by followers amounting to less than a hundred. On
reaching the ground, he was carried or shuffled off his horse and
deposited in the tent amid most terrific screechings. He took an immense
time to arrange for our admission. We found him seated on a shabby
throne, with a head priest, a coarse looking man, on his right, on a less
elevated seat. Brass cups, etc. were arranged before him. Our chairs
occupied the left; a present of fruits, onions, etc., the floor. The
meeting was friendly, and he promised us coolies in two days. He is a
youngish man with a square face, and was well dressed.
After we had taken leave, he feasted his attendants and the spectators
with salt-fish and rice. He departed about 2 P.M. The procession was as
follows, both going and returning--
A large, black, shaggy dog led by a chain.
A drum and drummer; a gong with a melodious sound; a clarionet played by
an old and accomplished musician, rivalling in its strains that beautiful
instrument the bagpipe; a man bearing a wooden painted slab on a pole, on
this was an inscription; a banner looking like a composition of rags; a
white flaglet; fifteen matchlockmen; fifteen bowmen; the Dompa of
Roongdong; five horses and one mule led.
The household; Natchees; guitar; sundries. Personal attendants, looking
like yeomen of the guard in red cloth dresses, variegated with yellow;
the Rajah wearing a Chinese copper hat.
Lastly, the priests, of whom there were about six.
These were the best clothed and best mounted, and evinced satisfactory
tokens of being corporeally well off. Their dress consisted of a sombre
jacket with no sleeves, with either a yellow or red silk back, over this
is a sombre scarf. They are great beggars, and the headman was well
pleased with a present of four rupees. In return, he gave P. two, B. and
myself each one paper of salt, similar to those given to the lookers-on.
The ponies were all poor, excepting two or three of the Rajah's own,
which were handsomely equipped; these had their tails raised on end,
exactly like hobby-horses. In addition to this, each was supplied with
supernumerary yak tails, one on either side.
The whole people collected did not amount to more than 300. The arms, at
least were wretched, consisted of culverins, which went off with an
enormous report, and matchlocks with short rests, like the end of a
pitchfork. The bows were long and good. The helmets were worn on the
head when going and coming, but were allowed to sling on the back while
resting here; they are rude iron things, like bowls, but covered for some
way up the sides with cloth in a most unbecoming way. Dirt and noise
were predominant; the dancing women, evidently not what they should be,
had clean faces, but horridly dirty feet, and were very plain. The
dancing was poor, consisting chiefly of ungraceful motions of the hands
and forearms; the singing pleasing, harmonious but monotonous.
A peculiar kind of spirit called _Chonghoons_ is in great requisition:
this liquor is pleasant, perfectly clear like whiskey and water, with a
small matter of malt in it.
Fumaria is found here much more advanced than that at Bulphai, Drymaria
ovata. They cultivate one sort of Legume, perhaps more; mangoes, jacks
and pomegranates; all these trees bear fruit towards the end of the hot
weather. A young mango tree was observed with opposite leaves, uppermost
pair one abortive nearly: thus the Mariam of Burma, may probably present
the normal form of foliation. _Adoee_ fish {227} found in the Monass.
Bheirs, papia, tobacco, banyan, of these last, poor specimens may be seen
here. The place is miserably poor, and as it is reckoned one of some
importance, its condition shows the barrenness of the country. The
Rajah's house is a large one, apparently consisting of a quadrangle with
an elevated story. News arrived yesterday to the effect that tumults
still prevailed: the Deb it was said had been deposed by treachery: that
a new one had been permanently appointed: but that the usurper did not
wish us to come on. Tongsa, however, said that after we have come so
far, we should advance, and that we may settle our plans at his place.
_February 5th_.--Left: descended immediately from the town to the
bridge over the Monass. The descent is steep but winding, the face of
the hill being nearly precipitous. Close to the river we passed a small
field of Cajanus, used for feeding the lac insect. The bridge is a
suspension one, the chains, one on either side, being of iron in square
links; the curve is considerable, in the form of the letter V, the sides
being of mat. Hence it is difficult to cross, and this is increased by
the bridge swinging about considerably: it is seventy yards in span, and
about thirty above the Monass.
The Monass is 1,300 feet below Benka, it is a large river, the banks
being about eighty yards apart, but this space is not generally filled
with water. Its violence is extreme.
We continued along this river some time, gradually rising from its bed
until we ascended nearly 1,000 feet. We continued at this elevation
until we reached Nulka, to which place we descended a little. The whole
march was through a barren, rocky, burnt-up country. The Monass was in
sight nearly the whole distance. Passed two villages, both small, one on
the right and one on the left bank of the river. No change in vegetation
occurred except that we came upon pines, P. longifolia about a mile and a
half from Nulka, coming into flower. I am almost inclined to think this
is different from the Khasya species, Kurrimia, Indigofera pulchra,
Desmodium, Buddleia sp., were the only plants of a novel nature that
occurred. The hills are chiefly clothed with Andropogoneous grasses,
very little cultivation was observed, but there seemed to be more on high
hills to the east.
[Gradient Benka to Nulka: g229.jpg]