_Continues the Journey towards Assam and Bootan_.
The annexed table of the distributions of plants in relation to altitudes
of the Khasyah mountains may render the subject of the preceding
observations more clear and distinct. The dotted line along the left
hand margin represents the elevation of the mountains, the greater height
of which is something better than 6,000 feet.
[Gradient Surureem to Moflong: g163.jpg]
_October 8th_.--Visited the fir wood, which is about three miles to the
eastward; the road runs over the same _downey_ ground. The first plant
that appears is a Boreal Euphorbia, allied to that previously mentioned.
A Sanguisorba of large stature occurs in low wet places. Epilobum not
uncommon. The Pines appear first straggling, and they only form a wood
in one place, and even there not of much extent; none are of any size.
Musci Lichens and fungi abound in the wood, as also Circaea and
Herminium?
Osbeckia Nepalensis, Hedychia 2, a small Goodyera, Tricyrtis Hedera,
Polygonum, Polypodium, Gaultheria, Viburnum, Thibaudiacea fructibus
gratis, subacidis. Eurya, Valeriana, Quercus, may likewise be found.
Salix occurs on the skirts in low places. The hills around are clothed
with grasses, among which is a large Airoidea; in the low valleys between
these, intersected with small water-courses, three species of Juncus, a
curious Umbellifera fistulosa, and Mentha verticillata, occur. Another
Hypericum is likewise found in lately cleared places.
Some cultivation occurs about the place on the slopes of hills, chiefly
of a Digitaria, sown broadcast, and tied up in bundles when nearly ripe;
together with Glycine tuberosa, and Coix Lacryme.
To the eastward the hills become more rocky, affording little vegetation,
the chief plant is an Othonnoidea; another Herminioidea, and a
Habenariod, both out of flower, may be found, the former on hills, the
latter in low places; a tall Campanula was among the new plants, and an
Umbellifera with curious foliage.
The height of this ridge is 5,768 feet, the temperature being 74 degrees,
and water boiling at 201.75 degrees.
Took the elevation of Moflong bungalow. Temperature of the air 65
degrees; water boiled at 202.25 degrees; this gives 5,410 feet.
There are several high rounded hills about this place, (one to the south
of the Boga Panee,) the generality of which are more elevated than those
on the northern side; the most conspicuous is the hill near Moleem, the
north face of which is wooded, and which is at least 1,000 feet above
Moflong.
8 P.M. Temperature 58.5 degrees. 5 P.M. 65 degrees.
_October 9th_.--Rain as usual in the morning. Thermometer at 7 A.M.,
58.5 degrees.
_October 10th_.--A fine bracing cold morning, with the thermometer at
53.5 degrees. 7 A.M. left for Myrung. The march to Syung is
uninteresting, passing over precisely the same country as that about
Moflong, with vegetation much the same. A tall Carduaceous tree with
pink flowers was found in the swampy bottoms of the valleys. About
Syung, a seneciois tree foliis angustissimus. It is about this place
that the sides of the ravines become clothed with forest, and from this
northward, Pines increase in abundance. Anthistiria speculis
villosissimis continues here and there; a good deal of cultivation passed
on the road, especially under Syung to the south, where there is a large
valley. The chief cultivation appears to be Coix, Glycine, and some
rice, but the produce seemed very small. At the foot of Syung on the
north side, large tufts of Juncus occur, and on the first ascent another
species of Valeriana foliis radicalibus reniformi cordatus occurs. Urena
lobale was noticed as high as 5,300 feet. Between Syung and Myrung,
especially about Nungbree, Parnassia recurs, with another species of
Epilobium, Xyris, Juncus, the Senecioneoe, etc.; a new Impatiens occurs
towards Myrung. Generally speaking, the plants are much the same as
those about Moflong; but several new Compositae occur.
The road leaves Nungbree to the right, leaving the most interesting parts
of the march behind. Altogether not more than 20 additional plants
occurred in a journey of 6 hours. Many parts are wet and marshy, and
there is an absence of all tree vegetation, until one reaches Syung. This
makes the first part of the way somewhat tedious. At Syung an Elaeagnus
occurs; Colquhounia as usual in hedges; Styrax occurs at foot of the hill
the altitude of which is 5,000 feet.
An anemone is common on road sides, especially on this side of Syung; a
new Potentilla occurs; and the only Boragineous plant hitherto seen by me
on these hills, a Cynoglossum closely allied to C. canescens. The
altitude of Syung is 5,594 feet. The temperature being 70 degrees, and
water boiling at 202 degrees. Myrung 6 P.M. Thermometer 65 degrees.
_October 11th_.--Myrung 7 A.M. temp. 63 degrees Fahr.; noon 67 degrees;
6 P.M. temp. 65 degrees; 9 temp. P.M. 62.5 degrees. Weather unsettled,
showery, and very cloudy, a very fine view is had of Bootan and the
Himalayas from this place, particularly about 7 A.M. when the atmosphere
is clear, the Durrung peaks being most magnificent. The vegetation of
the hills about here is much the same as about Moflong. The woods are
fine, composed chiefly of oaks; a Magnolia, which is a very large tree,
likewise occurs together with Gordonia, an occasional Pinus, Myrica
integrifolia. The most curious tree is one which with the true
appearance of an Elaeagnus, seems to be a Loranthus, the first
arborescent species yet found, although, as one or two other exceptions
occur to parasitism, there is no reason why there should not be a
terrestrial arborescent species, as well as a fruticose one. The wood to
the east of the bungalow, which clothes a deep and steep ravine, has a
very rich flora; a dryish ridge on the other side of its torrent abounds
with Orchideae, and presents an arborescent Gaultheria. The ridge in
question may be recognised by its large rocks which are covered with
Epiphytes Mosses, etc. In this wood Pothos flammea is very common,
climbing up the trees as well as hanging in festoons. The marshes which
are frequented by a few snipe, present grasses, the usual Cyperaceae,
Xyris, occurs but is not common; Panicum stagninum? Eriocaulon spe.
fluitans? Burmannia Rungioidea floribus carneis magnis, Senecionides,
Ammannia rotundifolia, Sphagnum, Carduacea floribus roseis, Limnophilae
sp. Mentha verticillata, and the others previously found in similar
situations. _Goldfussia_ so common about Churra, recurs here, but
rarely.
The wood abounds with several species of birds, among which a green
_Bulbul_ is the most common, then the fan-tailed Parus, with its
coquettish airs; judging from the voice there is a species of Bucco. Both
species of Phaenicornis, yellow and crimson, described in Gould's Century
as male and female, and the black Edolius are found. The only animals
are two species of squirrel, and a genet, of which I shot one, but
although it fell from a height of 70 feet or so, I could not succeed in
securing it; it is a lengthy animal, black and grey, with a long tail,
climbing trees with great facility. The ring-dove of Churra continues.
The weather during the four days I stayed at Myrung was unsettled; fine
usually in the morning, but cloudy and showery in the evening; the range
of the thermometer from 53 degrees, at 6.5 A.M. to 68 degrees in the
afternoon in an open verandah. The place, however, is not a cheerful
one, for the aspect on every side except to the E. and NE. is dreary,
marshes and the usual bleak grassy hills being alone visible. My
favourite spot in this direction would be the Nungbree hill, the altitude
of which, at least of that part over which the road to the village runs,
is 5,439, (or probably 5,700,) temperature of the air being **, and water
boiling at 202.5 degrees. There is a beautiful and very extensive wood
at Nungbree, the largest I have yet seen; it consists, at least at the
skirts, principally of oaks; a large Pyrus is also not uncommon. Eurya,
and an arborescent Buddleia likewise occur.
[THE OK-KLONG ROCK: p167.jpg]
At this place Plectranthus azureus makes its appearance, otherwise the
vegetation is that of Myrung; the most remarkable plant is a huge
Sarcocordalis, parasitic on the roots of a large climbing Cissus cortice
suberosa, foliis quinatis, on the wet parts of the wood, especially
towards the mountain foot, mosses abound, chiefly the pendent Hypna and
Neckerae.
On the 13th, I went to a celebrated rock called Kullung, bearing about
NW. from Myrung, from the heights surrounding which it is visible; the
road runs off from the Nunklow nearly opposite Monei, near to which
village one passes; the village is of no great size, and as well as
others in this direction is inhabited chiefly by blacksmiths, the iron
being procured from the sand washed down the mountain torrents; the sound
of their anvils when beaten is very soft and musical, not unlike that of
a sheep bell. The road to the rock is very circuitous; it finally
ceases, and for an hour one traverses ridges on which no path exists,
having the usual vegetation. The rock is certainly a vast mass, forming
a precipice of 700 feet to the westward, on which side it is nearly bare
of vegetation, gradually shelving to the east, and covered with
tree-jungle, among which huge mosses are to be found. At its foot some
fine fir trees occur, one at its very base measured nine feet in
circumference, but had no great height. The forest consists of Oaks,
Pines, Panax, Erythrina Eurya, Gordonia.
The base of the rock is covered with mosses, Hepaticae, a Didymocarpus,
Caelogyne and some other epiphylical orchideae, among others Bolbophyllum
cylindraceum.
All these continue to its apex, except the mosses and Hepaticae, which
are gained by clambering, and proceeding up fissures clothed with
grasses. The apex is rounded, presenting here and there patches of
grass, Aira, and Nardus, together with a few stunted shrubs--Viburnum,
another Rhododendron, and Didymocarpus common, Caelogyne in profusion,
Bolbophyllum cylindraceum in abundance, mosses, Lichens, an Allium also
in abundance on the slopes, Stellaria in the woods towards the middle.
The view to the westward in particular was pretty, embracing a fine well-
wooded undulated valley, with several villages and a stream of some size.
The plains of Assam and the huge Brahmapoutra were likewise seen, but not
very clearly. The distance from Myrung to the Kullung rock is certainly
not less than eight miles, the time it took was 4 hours. The altitude of
the rock is 5,392 feet, temperature 76 degrees, water boiling at 202.5.
Wild hog are found round its base. {168}
_October 14th_.--I left for Moleem, the march is long and fatiguing;
the road leaves the Moflong road at about four miles from the village of
that name, continuing over similar barren hills, clothed with scanty
grass. On reaching Morung firs become common, but they are small. The
view of Moleem, from this direction is remarkably pretty; the country
being better wooded, especially with young firs, and the effect being
much increased by the quantities of large boulders that occur strewn in
every direction. The Boga Panee is here a contemptible stream, not knee
deep. Moleem is a place of some size on the left bank of the river,
occupying the side of a hill of considerable height. Thermometer 7 P.M.
58 degrees.
_October 15th_.--Temp. 7 A.M. 53 degrees, at 3 P.M. 70.5 degrees, water
boiled at 204 degrees, altitude 4,473 feet, or perhaps rather more.
Walked towards Nogandree; between this and a stream resembling the Boga
Panee there is a pretty valley, the eminences generally well-wooded with
young firs. Pretty and eligible sheltered sites might here be chosen for
a Sanatarium. The vegetation is the same as that of Moflong--Delphinium,
Ranunculus, Anemone, Potentilla, Tricyrtis, Codonopsis, Lilium giganteum,
Spiraeaceae, Viola, Pyrus, Galium, Carduus, Viburna.
The woods are not very frequent, they consist, when not exclusively of
Pines, chiefly of Oaks and Chesnuts. Underwood almost entirely of
Acanthaceae. Rhus Bucki-Amelam is common here, an Oxalis occurs in very
shady places with fleshy leaves, it is so large that it is scarcely
referrible to O. corniculata. Berberis asiatica is very common. 6 P.M.
thermometer 58 degrees, 9 P.M. 50.5 degrees.
_October 16th_.--7 A.M. 842.5 degrees (sic). Ascended the Chillong
hill, which is among the highest portion of this range, it is said that
from this both the plains of Bengal and of Assam may be seen, not because
it overtops all the intermediate ground, but because that happens in some
places to be rather low; the termination of the 1st elevation above
Churra, is seen to be very abrupt, but nothing can be seen beyond the
elevated plateau of this part towards the south. To the east and west
the view has the usual appearance--grassy valleys and hills--with a great
disproportion of jungle.
The summit is gained after an easy march of two hours; the ascent is
gradual. The highest ridge is naked of trees, but to the north the slope
is in one portion covered with heavy tree-jungle, in which the underwood
is as thick as I have ever seen it: it consists of an Acanthaceous plant;
the forest itself of oaks, chesnuts and Rhododendron arboreum, which last
is common on the highest margin. A few Pines occur, but scarcely above
the middle of the hill. To the north very high ground is visible, as
likewise from Myrung, and between this and Chillong is an elevated
plateau which appears to me likewise very eligible for the sites of
European residences.
But many places about Moleem are so, especially towards Nonkreem; and it
is much to be regretted that some situation in this part of the range had
not been selected for the site of a sanatarium instead of Churra. The
Rhododendra were covered with mosses and other epiphytes, among which
Otochilus occurred. Bambusae, 2 Fici sp. Andropogon, Gaylussacia, etc.
occur about the wood. The vegetation of the grassy hills was precisely
the same, Aroidea, Erianthus, Tofieldioidea, Parnassia nana _potius_
_collina_, Sphacelioidea, Osbeckia, Arbutoideae, etc. I got scarcely a
single new plant; the best was a fine large Neckera, sect. Dendroidea.
The temperature being 70 degrees: water boiled at 201 degrees, making the
altitude 6,167 feet. No view of any particular beauty was obtained, nor
did any thing occur to repay me for the trouble and fatigue of the
journey.
About Moleem an Osmundoid is common enough, but not in _flower_: the
northern forms are Ranunculus, Anemone, Parnassia, Pyrus, Pinus, Viola,
Galium, Campanula, Clematis, of which an additional species occurs,
Bromoideae, etc. etc., as at Moflong. I took the height of this place
again; the mean of the three thermometers gave 4,502 feet, the
temperature being at 60 degrees: water boiling at 95 degrees, 203.75
degrees, 204 degrees. It must, however, be remembered that my residence
is not 100 feet above the bed of the Boga Panee, so that it would be easy
to attain an elevation of 5,000 feet in the village itself.
_October 17th_.--I returned to Churra to send away my collections and
to consult with Major Lister as to the routes proposed for me by Capt.
Jenkins, viz. through the Garrows, or through the Cacharees. Nothing
particular occurred en route. I met with Hydrangea exaltata along a
torrent flowing into the main-feeder of the Boga Panee, and two other
Araliaceae. The highest ground crossed is towards the ravine of the Boga
Panee, and from this a good view of Moflong is obtained, and also of the
Himalayas in clear weather. Coelogyne Wallichiana was commencing to
flower; this plant occurs in profusion in some rocky spots about Moflong.
The only additional thing I remarked was, that Luculia scarcely reaches
the Kala Panee.
On my return to Churra, a change was observed in the character of the
vegetation, all the Tradescantias had ceased, as well as most of the
Impatientes, and Eriocaulons. The grasses had become more withered, and
the general tint was brown. No kites (Falco milvus) are to be observed
out of Churra.
The plants which were particularly conspicuous about Churra, were past
flowering in the interior; thus Osbeckia Nepalensis? was not to be met
with in flower in the interior, while it is in profusion about the
station. The same may be said of other instances.
After all Churra presents the richest flora of any other place in the
Khasyah hills, because there is a greater extent of wood near it, than is
found in any other locality, much greater _altitudes_ and deeper descents
in its ravines, and it is as it were the transit point between a tropical
or sub-tropical, and a temperate vegetation. I have no doubt, that
within a circle of three miles of Churra, 3,000 species might be found in
one year.
The principal plants pointing out the tropical nature of the vegetation
are Pandanus, which is almost limited to the limestone formation, on
which it is excessively abundant, Chamaerops Martiana? which from its
affecting particularly the walls of the amphitheatres so conspicuous
about Moosmai, Mamloo and Surureem, and the depths of whose sides is
probably at Mamloo 1,000 feet, might have been better named. I have
never seen it on any other places. The Alsophila Brunoniana is likewise
apparently confined to the limestone hills, while the tree fern,
Polypodium, is found on sandstone, as well as Impatiens, Tradescantia,
Commelineae, Eriocauloneae, Xyres, almost all the grasses, Melastomaceae,
almost all the Leguminosae and the preponderance of tropical Rubiaceae,
which are, however, few, Scitamineae, Epiphytical Orchideae, Urena
Labiata, etc. etc.
On the _23rd_ I went to Mamloo, which is about four miles to the west of
Churra. To this place the limestone ridge, extending from Churra, nearly
approaches: its vegetation is not rich but always stunted: rocky
amphitheatres are very remarkable at Mamloo, they are of excessive depth;
their walls being generally perpendicular, often somewhat overhanging.
The manner of their formation is now to be seen in the amphitheatre
immediately contiguous to the village, although it appears to be very
slow. It is thus, bodies of water falling from the edge of the table
land, seem to undermine the sandstone below, producing land slips, which
occur in this manner year after year. Since 1835, the edge of the
Moosmai fall has receded at least 10 feet, and ample evidence remains of
the recession to take place next rains. This simple undermining will
suffice for the formation of ravines, which are formed by their sides
merely slipping down without being carried away, this last only occurring
in the immediate vicinity of the strength of the torrent. All the
different stages may be easily seen. The edge of the table land I take
to have been originally at Mahadeb. The time that has elapsed between
the falling of the first cataract over its edge, and the formation of the
edge over which the waters at present fall, must be immense, since that
edge has now receded several miles. Allowing the annual recess to be 5
feet, and the distance 5 miles; the time occupied would be 5,700 years:
that the time has been great, is proved by the sides of these places
being clothed with large tree-jungle to the base of the scarp.
_October 25th_.--I went in search of the fossil marine beach, (found
during our first visit in 1835,) but passed it, and my journey ended at
the site of the Jasper beds: this occupies a ridge where roads strike off
leading to the Orange villages, so called from the groves of orange trees
by which they are surrounded, and from which they derive their name. From
this spot, 3 villages are seen occupying sheltered situations, none much
above 2,000 feet in elevation. Luckily I was accompanied, (although
going down I was unconscious of it,) by a boy who had been with
McClelland when he originally discovered the fossil remains, so I
recommenced the ascent, after digging in many places without any success.
The site is scarcely 1,000 feet below Mamloo, which is 3,153 feet; it is
below the ridge along which the road is visible from the village, and is
about 100 yards farther from it than the second square stone erection.
One would imagine that one was passing through rocks presenting nothing
interesting: the rocks are in many places very hard, particularly when
they have been long exposed to the atmosphere, in which case they are
less red than when sheltered by vegetation, when they are soft and of a
reddish colour: the fossils are by no means frequent, the cylindric
_tubes_ appear to occupy the outer or rather upper surface of the
sandstone, in the interior of which Medusae or Cyrtomae are most
frequent, accompanied by shells, some of large size, the largest bivalves
resembling _scolloped oysters_; the next in size looking like oblong
cockles: for only in one position did I see a conglomeration of minute
shells; this occurred above the others and nearer the jungle. I brought
away with me, two boxes full. Owing to my presuming that I should meet
with water near, I omitted the precaution of taking some with me, so I
could not ascertain exactly the height of the place. All the fossils are
easily friable. {172}
From the Jasper, which is scarce 1,800 feet in elevation, the following
plants occurred nearly in succession--Holmskioldia, this is scarcely
found above 2,000 feet; Porana in abundance, gradually diminishing above;
Callicarpa arborea abundant, continuing to about 2,200; Triumfetta, Urena
lobata, Arundo the same as above, Melica latifolia, Panicum plicatum, and
one or two other species; a Polygonum, Andropogon, small Commeline, Leea,
Erythrina are very close to the spot, and the only Churra plant, except
the Arundo and Wendlandia is a Labiata, Geniosporum? so is Composita
arborea; indeed the vegetation is almost decidedly tropical. The
following plants are then seen--Tetranthera, Flemingia as at Mahadeb,
Vitis, Drymaria, Panicum eleusinoides, Eurya, Panax foliis decompositis
inermis, Pogonatherum crenitum, Wallichia, which occur before one has
gained an ascent of 2,000 feet: Osbeckia nepalensis descends to this but
in small quantities; then I remarked Bidens, AEtheilema, Caricineae,
Rottlera, Didymocarpus, Begonia, Cheilanthes dealbata, Stemodia
ruderalis? Scutellaria, Impatiens bracteata, Rungiae sp. Sida,
Elephantopus sp. and Bambusa, Gordonii occurring there at an elevation of
about 2,100 feet. Then Centotheca lappacea, Deeringia, Panicum
_centrum_, Gouania, Caryophyllus, which last occurs on all the chain of
Himalayas, and which I have seen as high as 6,000 feet in the Mishmee
Mountains, latitude 28 degrees. Panax foliis palmatim partitis,
Clerodendrum nutans, Ficus feruginea and F. hispida, foliis cordatis,
serrato-dentatis: then Saurauja micrantha; before 2,300 feet were
reached. There Oxyspora sp. paniculis cernius ramis ascendentibus,
frutex, Croton of old, Ruellia persicaefolia appeared, and about 2,400
feet, the 1st Quercus appeared. Here, as at Mahadeb, Ruellia Neesiana
became common, and Linum trigynum, Uncinia, etc. Grasses commence to
preponderate at about 2,800 feet, but not the grasses of Churra. Holcus,
Airoides, etc. not being found, but Panica varia, and Rottboellia which
ceases above this.
At the raised Marine Fossil Beach, a queer Cephalanthus? Legumenosa
arbuscula fol. pinnatis impari (Pongamiae) Legumenibus secus suturam
quamque alatis, Mangifera indici, Anthistiria arundinacea are found, and
an arbusculous Mimosa, but unarmed. Shortly above this, Holcus,
Andropogons, etc., begin to preponderate, and thence the vegetation is
nearly that of Churra. The woods of Mamloo consist of Bucklandia, oaks,
chesnuts, Panax, Hyalostemma, Eurya, and Oleineoe; Epiphytes are very
common. The most remarkable tree is one foliis alternis bistipulat;
corymbis denis, Calycibus hinc fissis, petalis 5-albis, Antherae sinuosae
columna terminans, et ovarium et stigma occultantes? fructibus pendulis
stipilatis ovato oblongis, carpellis 5-latere marginatus.
This has some affinities apparently with Sterculiaceae; the flowers are
perhaps polygamous.
Here Cypripedium insigne, Venustum, and various other fine Orchideae may
be found.
The only bird I saw was a Bucco, which in voice resembled the green one
of the plains.
The elevation of Mamloo is 3,153, the temperature being at 7 A.M. 63
degrees. The large metal thermometer rose at the boiling point to 206.25
degrees: wooden one to 206.5 degrees: centigrade 96.7 degrees: small
metal 200 degrees.
One of the most curious places about Churra is situated over the ridge in
which the coal is found; on surmounting this, which is steep and perhaps
400 feet high, one soon commences to descend gradually until you come to
a water-course; on proceeding along this a short way you come to a
precipice. The water falling over this, has cut a deep well in the
limestone: the road to the bottom is precipitous and dangerous. On
reaching the water-course again no signs of the well are observable,
access to this is gained by subterranean passages, of which two, now dry,
exist. The scene inside is very striking; you stand on the rugged bottom
of the well which is 70 or 80 feet deep, the part above corresponding to
the fall, being of about the same depth; the water now escapes through a
chasm below the bed of the well, the other fissures or passages being
above, and probably now rarely letting off the water. After a severe
fall of rain the scene must be grand.
_November 4th_.--Nonkreem 6.5 A.M., thermometer 31 degrees: hoarfrost.
Marched hither from Surureem. Vegetation the same until you reach the
Boga Panee, when Delphinium, Anemone, and Ranunculus make their
appearance. On the high ridges before reaching Boga Panee, found an
Astragalus; at Nonkreem, a Scrophularia. Nonkreem is a curious place,
the village of no great size in a valley: the sides of the valley are
covered with boulders; those at the entrance from Churra of huge size,
and thrown together with great confusion. Pines at this place occur of
some size, but they are distinctly limited in this direction to the
granitic formation. The downs have now assumed a withered wintry
appearance. Nonkreem is a great place for iron; this is found in coarse
red sandstone, or it may be fine granite, forming precipices; this is
scraped or pushed down by iron rods, it is then washed by a stream turned
off on to it: the stream is dammed up, and the irony particles by their
weight fall to the bottom: they are very heavy, of a dull blackish
appearance. All the streams are of a whitish colour, and the rocks are
covered with Caelogyne Wallichiana.
The elevation of Nonkreem is 4,578 feet, the temperature of the air being
52 degrees. The large thermometer indicated boiling water 203 degrees:
centigrade 96.5 degrees: wooden 204 degrees: small 197 degrees. In the
Nonkreem jheel, Alisma, Villarsia! and Potamogeton occur.
_November 5th_.--The march to Suneassa continues over high downs, the
vegetation being precisely as before, viz. Cnicus, Carduus, Prunella
Pedicularis, Gaultheria, Gnaphalia, Bromoid acroideum, Tussilaginoid
Andropogon, Sphacelia Daucas, Hypericum, Hedychium, Polygonum rheoides,
Smithia but rare, Tradescantia clavigera, Parnassia collina, Pteris
aquilina, Euphorbia, Dipsacus, Salix, Osbeckia capitata, AEthionnia,
Eriocaulon, Knoxia cordata, and Campanula. In short, the higher ridges
have the vegetation of those between the Kala and Boga Panee, the less
elevated, that of Surureem. Along the watercourses Pyrus, Betula,
Corylifoliae, and Eurya.
As one approaches Suneassa the ravines become wooded, and the aspect of
country more diversified. The woods consist of a Castanea, 2 oaks,
Rhododendron arboreum and R. punctatum, Panax, Eurya, Thebaudiaceae
variae, no less than 4 or 5 of these, one is a Gaylussacia; Saccharum
megala makes its appearance at Suneassa.
This is a small straggling village, on the brow of the ravine of the same
name; it is like Moflong, each house being hidden by hedges composed as
usual of Buddleia, Colquhounii, Solanum spirale? Erythrina, Ficus, and
Rhus. Sugarcane, but of poor quality, is here cultivated, as well as
capsicum, but this is also of inferior quality; the houses are worse than
usual. Near this place several Nunklow plants appear, as Plectranthus
caeruleus, Labiata foliis verticillatis of Suddya. Its elevation is
4,362 feet, the temperature being in the air, 59 degrees. Big
thermometer boiling point ditto 204 degrees: wooden ditto 204 degrees:
small 198 degrees: centigrade ditto 96 degrees. Pines occur here and
there towards Suneassa, but of no size and no abundance.
_November 6th_.--Left Suneassa and proceeded down the ravine which is
probably 1,200 to 1,500 feet deep. The scenery is very pretty, the sides
being much wooded; the woods open, consisting chiefly of pines, which are
of moderate size, Gordonia, Castanea, and Quercus: Mimosea occurs, also
Saurauja. The grasses are as before, except that the Anthisteria of
Nunklow appears, with Volkameria, Verbena Primulacae, and Osbeckia
capitate, foliis lineari oblongis, floribus carneis. Towards the foot,
the scenery still improves.
The woods consist of pines and a Quercus foliis castaneae cupulis
echinatis, Arbor mediocris; the slopes as well as the valley are
cultivated chiefly for rice, this last often assuming the terrace
fashion. The river is of considerable width, 50 to 60 yards, but of no
depth: two here flow together, and at the end of the valley a still
larger stream not fordable in the rains, at least where I crossed, meets
it. On the streams at the base of the Suneassa acclivity, Salix,
Ligustrum, Ficus frutex humelis, and a fine Indigofera occur. Moving
thence along the valley the vegetation becomes tropical, although pines
descend nearly to its level. Pontederia the small one of Bengal, ditto
Sagittaria Vandelliae, Poae 3, Apluda, Cyperaceae, Saccharum megala, and
spontaneum, Elytrophorus, Ammannia, Erianthus, Cnicus! Artemisia as
before, Arundo exalum, Cirsium, Carduus! Scitamineae 2, Panicum curvatum,
Setaria glauca, Swertia angustifolia! Volkameriae sp., Ranunculus
hirsutoideus! Zizania ciliaris.
Those marked with (!) have probably straggled down. The cultivation is
chiefly of rice, Eleusine, Coix, and the edible seeded Labiata. Grasses
abound; in addition to those above several new ones occur, Rottboellia
exallata, Anthisteria of Nunklow, Arundinaceae, Andropogones several,
Saccharum fusco-rubum, 25 species might certainly be collected.
Fine pines occur on the other ascent from its base to apex. Here also
occurs Phoenix pumile, which as well as the Rottboellia, which I think I
have seen in the Mogoung valley (during the journey to Ava), and Buddleia
neemda.
The ascent gained, the country appears level, covered with the usual
grasses. The ravines are well wooded, but few pines occur, although they
may be seen here and there. The woods appear the same as those of
Churra. Pandanus sp. altera? occurs. In one ravine gathered a new
Thebaudiaceae allied to T. variegata, differing in its short greenish
flowers and its smoothness.
[Gradient Nonkreem to Amwee: g176.jpg]
Amwee is situated on an undulated plain or table land; the undulations
are gentle, separated by marshy tracts: no steep ravines occur, the face
of the undulations is covered with grasses, among which are seen most of
the Churra plants, the sides are covered with fine woods with defined
edges, consisting chiefly of oaks, chesnuts and Bucklandia. The aspect
of the country is pretty, resembling some woodland scenery in the south
of England; close to Amwee is a fine stream 40 yards wide, this winds
through the valley, and on its upper part fine cascades occur. No fish
are to be found besides those of Churra. The river is crossed by a stone
bridge consisting of pillars of single slabs of large size, one measuring
20 feet in length by from 4 to 5 in breadth. The temperature varies from
50 to 68 during the day in an open verandah. Fogs are not so common, nor
is the rain so heavy as at Churra. The space being much greater, and the
country more level, it would be better as a sanatarium than Churra,
besides which, its access is as easy, it being reached in one day from
Jynteapore. There is, however, a Toorai about Jynteapore, which is
unhealthy. Its altitude is 3,500 feet, or nearly 500 below Churra.
The vegetation is nearly the same as about Churra, some new Castaneae and
an Elaeocarpus occur, and Pandanus of large size in the woods.
Epiphytical Orchideae abound; Nepenthes occurs here. Altitude from three
observations 3,530 feet: 1st observation 3,439: 2nd 3,597: 3rd 3,624.
_November 10th_.--Joowye: this is north from Amwee, and about 8 miles
distant. Two valleys have to be descended, one rather steep. The
country alters immediately after the 1st ascent, the woods nearly
disappearing except in the more favoured spots. Pines soon commence. In
the second valley, the stream of which is large, and of which pretty
views are to be obtained, the pines reach on the south side to the bank
of the stream, on the north scarcely any are to be seen. In the woods
about Amwee, Eugenia is very common: noticed on the route Lonicera.
Joowye is the largest village I have seen, it is of great extent but
straggling; near its entrance is a breast-work now nearly complete. The
houses are of a better description than those generally met with. They
are surrounded by wood, especially fine bamboos, in habit not unlike B.
baccifera. They are also surrounded by excellent timber palings. The
people are different from Khasyas Proper--perhaps they are not so fine a
race. Their features approach more to those of Bengallees, particularly
the women, who dress their hair like those of Assam, indeed the dress
generally of both sexes assimilates to that of Assamese, although their
language seems to be Bengallee. In the wood surrounding this place
curious features of vegetation occur, and beautiful lanes and pathways.
One may see a beech now naked of leaves, standing out in graceful relief
close to the elegant foliage of a bamboo. Bamboos surround all the
houses--sugarcane, kuchoos, mustard, hemp, Musa, Ricinus were observed.
The plants are beech, which is common and of large size. Pyrus of
Moleem, Pinus rare, Marlea begonifolia! Betula corylifolia common.
Verbena chamaedrys, Rubi 3 or 4, Tetrantherae? Rubia cordifolia, Morus,
Cerasus, Panax 3 species, Gleicheniae 2, Eurya, Juncus, Ranunculus,
Viola, Verbesina of Moflong, Sida, Clematis _pubescens_, Caricineae,
Myrica, Gordonia, Polygonum 3, among them Rheoides Engeldhaardtii common,
Viburna 2, Wendlandia, Osbeckia capitata and nepalensis. The grasses
chiefly Andropogons; Mussaenda, Bucklandia, Saurauja, Hiraea, Dipsacus
rare, Camellia oleifolia, and C. axillaris, Begonia laciniata, Ficus,
Vitis, Sonerila, Plectranthus azureus, Randia, Mephitidia, Psychotria,
Galium, Clerodendrum infortunatum, Pyrus or crab, Fragaria, Potentilla,
Urena lobata. The diversified nature of the vegetation, both tropical
and temperate, is at once evident.
The altitude is 3,553 feet--temperature of the air 62 degrees; large
thermometer boiling point 205.5 degrees: wooden ditto 206.75: centigrade
ditto 96 degrees: small ditto 199.5 degrees.
The higher ground about the place is about 4,000 feet: Joowye being
situated in a hollow. Viola and Peristrophe occur.
_November 11th_.--The march to Nurtung occupies about 6 hours. The
country is level, or merely undulated, with no considerable descent, the
steepest being that to the river on which Nurtung is situated. The
vegetation continues the same, the trees except in the ravines almost
exclusively pines, those on the ravines consisting of oaks, Rhododendra,
Betula corylifolia, Betula moroides, Solidago, Verbena, Primulaceae,
Othonna, occur; Anthistiriae, _both_ those of Nunklow are common,
Rottboellia Manisuris in low valleys: here and there Phoenix pumila is
common. The country just before Nurtung is uninteresting, scarcely any
thing but grass being visible in some directions. Indeed it falls off on
leaving Joowye.
Rhinanthus, Corolla infundibulif. subbilabiat. lobis 2, superioribus
minoribus, stam. ascendent. stigmati inclusi decurvo.
_November 12th_.--Nurtung is a large place for these hills, perhaps
next in extent to Joowye, it occupies principally both sides of a
sufficiently sheltered hill. The lanes adjacent to the place are narrow,
often very wet, and always very dirty. The gardens are enclosed with
wooden palings and are screened still further by bamboos. The houses, at
least the better order, are still better than even those of Joowye. The
exterior is of the same construction as all Khasya houses, but the lawns
and the comparative cleanliness of the front makes them look much better.
The market, which took place to-day, is outside the village and close to
our bungalow: it is well attended, but the amount of persons could not
exceed 100 to 200, and these form a considerable amount of all the
persons capable of bearing burdens from the neighbouring villages. The
luxuries exhibited are all Khasyan, consisting of stinking fish, some
other things of dubious appearance and still more dubious odour, millet
and the inferior grains, and the fashionable articles of Khasya clothing
and the adjuncts to that abominable habit pawn eating. There was plenty
of noise, but still order prevailed: no other rupees than the _rajah's_
were taken, and even pice were refused. Iron implements of husbandry of
native manufacture were vended, in short all the various luxuries or
necessaries of a Khasya are obtainable.
This place bears evidence of having been ruled over by some chief
pretending to Hindooism. This is observable in the large fig trees in
some of the buildings, in most of the houses in the presence of some
brahmins, in the tanks, and in a sacred lake. At any rate it is attended
with bad effects, and to see a Khasya attempting the formalities of a
rigid Hindoo is ridiculously absurd.
It must be a wealthy place, many of the natives are well off; and I saw a
_lady_ of a decidedly superior nature to the Khasya women, clad in snow
white, reclining in oriental fashion on a platform. The _vegetation_ of
this place forms a curious melange around our huts: Rhus bucki ameli, two
Artimiseae, Anthistiria arundinacia, Pteris aquilina, Callicarpa
_lilacina_, Eurya, Bombax, Osbeckia nepalensis and linearis, Marlea
begonifolia, Pyrus, Pinus, Urticia fructibus aurantiaceus capitulatis,
Polygonum rheoides, Rubi 3, Swertia angustifolia, Polygonum globuliferum,
Valerianae, Cacalia, Randia, Gnaphalia nervosa, and G. revoluta, Smilax,
Plectranthus azureus, Trichosanthes, Leea, Tradescantia clavigera,
Geniosporum, _Butea_, Hypericum, Knoxia cordata, Rice cultivation.
Along the path to the village are to be found, Carduus, Myrica
crotalaria, _Hacyoides_, Cariceneae, Panicum curvatum, Arundo, Mentha
verticillata, Cyperaecae usual, Zizania ciliaris, Panax, Wendlandia
_Salvinia_, Isachne bigeniculata, Betula corylifolia common, Pontedera,
Tetranthera, Erythrina, Celtis, Salix, Buddleia, Gordonia, Calamus
abundant, Juncus, Arum macrophyllum, Cordiaceae, Urena lobata,
Cynoglossum canescens, Bambusa, Verbesinea, _Lavinia_, Magnolia of
Myrung, Camellia oleifolia, Gualtheria.
About the village, Porana, Musa, Verbena, Xanthophyllum, Xyris, Urtica
herophylla, Sambucus, etc.
The cultivation consists of rice, millet, Soflong? pumpkins and tobacco;
guavas and oranges, are also to be seen.
Daphne cannabina occurs here, as well as Loxotis obliqua, the Cardaminum,
Plantago, and Martynia.
From a fresh observation and taking the mean, I find the elevation of
Nurtung to be 3,302 feet.
On enquiry I find that Rulung is one march off, that the country is
similar, and that pines grow there to a large size. From this place to
Koppilee river it is said to be nine marches. A fuqueer from Cutch said
several, six to ten--and as the distance is nearly fifty miles and the
ground difficult, he was probably right.
You then come to the Meekir country. To get into Tooly Ram's country
would require at least nine days, but with loaded people probably twelve
or fifteen. The station between Rulung and the Koppilee is Hush Koorah.
Thermometer varies here from 45 to 85 in the sun, in shade from 52 to 74.
_November 13th_.--Left for the Borpanee.
The country traversed is easy, consisting chiefly of undulations covered
with grassy vegetation. There are no steep ascents nor descents; and the
only obstacle is the Borpanee. The march is of about six hours'
duration.
Butea suffruticosa is very common about Nurtung, but ceases soon after
leaving its environs. All the valleys near this place are cultivated:
the ground being now inundated in proportion. Dipsacus valeriana
continued, and a short distance from Nurtung pines become very common.
Thence the country became more undulated and scarcely a tree was met
with: Hedysarum gyrans commenced shortly after leaving Nurtung: a sure
sign of decreasing elevation. The country subsequently improved, being
more diversified with wood: firs became abundant, Callicarpa arborea
commenced. About Nonkreen, a small village to the east, close to our
path the trees became mostly different. Kydia appeared, a tree like the
mango, and some others unknown to me. Bauhinia, Randia, Phyllanthus
Embelica, and a stunted arboreous Symplocos, Anthistiria arundinacea
common, with chesnuts (Castaneae).
Close to this, Gordonia, pines of some size, Anthistiria arundinacea and
Cassioides. The grasses continued the same, but two new Andropogons and
a small Rottboellia appear; Holcus, Airoides, etc. of Churra have ceased:
the other are Sacchara and various Andropogons. On approaching a
considerable descent the woods became open, consisting at first entirely
of pines, Betula of Joowye, etc. then of pines, Quercus castaneoides
which attains a large size. It was here that the pines became large, one
felled measured sixty-nine feet to the first branch, most are straight,
the greatest diameter not two feet. Gordonia occurred here of large
size, the woods are really delightful, reminding one much of England.
Here Myrica occurs but rarely, Lematula, Flemingia, Elephantopus, Vanda,
Quercus callicarpifolius commences, Biophytum appears a short distance
hence. Also, Liriodendron, Dipterocarpus, Bambusa, Pinus but of smaller
size, Engelhaardtia, Dioscorea, Castanea, Quercus callicarpa, which is
very common.
Here Bombax appears somewhat lower, with it Castanea, Kydia, Gordonia. No
pines now occur except on the neighbouring heights.
The descent to the Borpanee is not great, say 400 feet; on its banks
Thunbergia grandiflora commences, but the Castanea castaneoides of large
size, Camellia oleifolia, Daphne cannabina, Rhododendron punctatum
variety. Engenia Wallichii (which commences), Quercus castaneoides, etc.
may be found along its banks.
This is a large stream, not fordable at any time, nor passable in the
rains; both banks are high, rocks of course break the stream, which is
gentle at the points crossed. Breadth is 50 to 60 yards, the elevation
of its bed is 2,508 feet, water boiling at 207.5 degrees: temperature 74
degrees.
The ascent of the north bank is great, on surmounting it one returns to
grassy undulations, the vegetation of which is the same as before,
Rottboellia of Suniassa as well as Manisuroides here occur. The village
Madan is very small, the people, of course, as they have scarcely ever
seen a white face, very polite and obliging: it is situated on a hill,
but is still below the north bank of the river. Its altitude is 2,753
feet--temperature of the air 67 degrees: boiling water 207 degrees.
[Gradient Nurtung to Madan: g182.jpg]
The birds, as well as those of the Nurtung river, are the water-ouzel,
the greyish-blue water-chat, the red and black ditto with a white head-
top, and the black bird, _durn-durns_ or bird producing that cry
occurs, but not in great numbers. Pea-fowl at Madan. Elephants are
abundant, especially towards the descent to the Borpanee. _Fly wheel_
(?) insect is here common at Kokreen, a small village close to Nonkreen.
Equisetum occurs along the Boga Panee as well as a new species of
Podostemon, P. fronde profunde lobato, lobis liniaribus simplicibus vel
lobatis saxis arcti adpressis, floribus marginalibus distiches. Polygala
occurs at 3,000 feet and continues higher.
_November 14th_.--The march to Mengtung occupies about six hours, it is
by no means difficult, and the only ascent of any length is that before
descending on Nungtung. Throughout the 1st part, all the bottoms of the
valleys are cultivated, thence all is jungle, either of high grass or of
trees.
Near Madan, Arundinaria bambusifolia may be found, although at an
elevation of 2,800 feet, Volkameria is common. The same grasses
continue. In the rice field Butomus lanceolatus, Herpestes, Jussaeia,
Juncus, Eriocaulon, Zizana ciliaris.
We then came after traversing such low swampy ground for sometime to a
wood composed of Quercus castaneoidea, of large size; its bark is thick
and somewhat corky, its diameter three feet. Quercus callicarpifolius
appeared soon after, with Polygala linearis, Scitamineae are common in
the valley. In similar low places, Impatiens graminifolia of Churra was
seen, and Hedysarum gyrans.
Oolooks {183} and parrots are both found: Cnicus floribus roseis,
Gerardia, Apluda, Senecio pubescens, were found in similar spots.
After traversing a low valley with gentle undulations presenting the
usual grasses, we came to a wood presenting many tropical features. Oaks
and chesnuts still continuing to be the usual trees. Much underwood,
consisting of Acanthaceae, Laurineae, Anonaceae, Rubiaceae, among which
Poederia triphylla and Mephitidia were common. Centothca sp.,
Sarcopyramis, Garcinia, Triumfetta were observed.
Thence we came to pines. Then a low valley, the altitude of the stream
of which was 1,979 feet, the thermometer being in the air 82 degrees,
boiling point 208.5 degrees. Then a wood.
In it Castanea ferruginea continued common, Quercus dalbergioides, Daphne
cannabina, Acanthus leucostachyus (1st appearance), Oxyspora and
Polypodium Wallichii were found; ascending a few feet, say 60, Randia
microphyllum, Aneilema aspera, and pines appeared in the woods, with
straight trunks and high branches, occasioned by the abortion of the
lower branches, sometimes dichotomously forked, bark grey, and scaley,
branches horizontal, approximated; cones inclining towards the axis. The
descent occasioned a loss of pines, oaks and chesnuts continuing,
Orthopogon, Pederia triphyllum.
This wood was of great extent, the path running along the precipitous or
steep edge of a very wet water-course. Castanea ferruginea very common,
Cyrtandracea.
Begonia malabarica, Achyranthes, Tradescantia flagellifera,
Phlogacanthus, Acanthaceae, Sarcopyramis, Magnolia, Eupatorium arboreum,
Laurineae, Gleichenia minor.
Pinus subsequently appears but is rare, Eurya.
Daphne involucrata, Gaultheria arborescens, Knoxia cordata, Polypodium
arborescens, Thibaudia, Viburni sp., Vareca, Leucas galea brunacea.
Then still gradually ascending, open woods occurred.
Pines, Q. castaneoides.
Thence the ascent is still through open woods of pines. Castanea,
Quercus castaneoides and callicarpifolia, Polygala here appears, Knoxia
linearis, Flemingia, AEschynomene.
On the top no Pines. Oaks, chesnuts, and Gordoniae appear.
Thence a second but small ascent, pines re-appear with birch,
Scutellaria, Erythrina, Melica latifolia, Epiphytes common, especially on
Gordoniae. The altitude of the summit before descending on Nungtung was
3,359 feet: thermometer 75 degrees, boiling point 206 degrees.
The altitude of Nungtung is 2,862 feet, Temp. 64 degrees. Big Therm. in
boiling water 206.5 degrees, ditto wooden 207 degrees, small ditto 201
degrees, centigrade 97.75 degrees.
[Gradient Madan to Nungtung: g185.jpg]
Nungtung is a small village not containing more than 12 houses; these are
on michaowns, {186} and are built entirely of bamboos. The doors of
curious construction, consisting of bamboos strung longitudinally over a
transverse one, so that they can be only opened by pushing on one side.
The pigs have similar doors to their houses and appear well acquainted
with the mode of ingress and egress.
Tobacco flourishes here. Here also I saw Sesamum and Ricinus, sure signs
of increasing temperature, Labiata edulis. The first part of the march
lay through an oak and chesnut wood; then through the valley which is
under rice cultivation; then through part of an oak and fir wood; I then
turned off to NNE. traversing undulated hills entirely covered with
grass; here and there an oak and chesnut wood occurred; this continued
until 1 P.M., when the path joined the great road as it is called, but
which is nearly as bad as the Nungtung one. The marching was very
disagreeable, owing to the path being choked up with grass, particularly
in the swampy valley just before Onkreem. In this valley wild elephants
were first seen.
After leaving the halting or resting place under a large oak (Q.
castaneoides) at Onkreem, the path improved and is only rendered bad by
the swarms of elephants, by which animals we were disturbed twice; it
continued until 6 P.M., over undulated ground becoming lower and lower
until we arrived at the large valley of Onswye, which is even now at this
advanced period of the season, the middle of November, considerably
swampy.
Oaks and chesnuts continued, but pines ceased about half way between
Onkreem and Onswye.
[Gradient Nungtung to Onkreem: g187.jpg]
[Gradient Journey towards Assam and Bootan: g188.jpg]
[Gradient From Onkreem to Onkreem: g189.jpg]
[Gradient Journey towards Bootan: g190.jpg]
[Gradient Descent into Assam: g191.jpg]
Onswye is a small village, seated on a low hill, and entirely hidden by
trees: the access to it is pretty. Its elevation is 1,632 feet,
temperature 63 degrees. Water boils at 98.75 of centigrade, small ther.
202.5 degrees, big ditto 208.75 degrees, wooden ditto 210 degrees: taking
209 degrees as the mean.
It is a Lalung village. These people have distinct habits and language
from their neighbours: their dress is like that of the Khasyahs. They
approach to Hindoos in not eating cows. They inhabit the lower northern
ranges of these hills, but do not extend further east, nor into the
plains at the foot, and are far less civilized than the Khasyahs.
They have religious houses or places of worship, deo-ghurs, in one of
which I slept, having it first cleansed, and the deity appeased by some
most villainous music, and a procession of men with knives.
At this village Carica, Ficus elastica, Ficus cordifolius, Ricinus,
Artocarpus intigrifol, Tamarind, Guava, Musa, Solanum Melongena, tobacco,
etc., are cultivated.
Caryophyllea scandens, Desmochaeta, Plumbago, Plectranthus azureus,
Phlebochiton, Cassia tora, Orthopogon, Adhatoda, Mangifera, Croton
malvaefol, Hastingsia, Torenia asiatica, Caricinea, Leea, Prunus! Congea!
Antidesma, Rottleria, Clerodendron nutans, Calamus, Xanthochymus. Mesua
ferrea, Garcinia Cowa, Leea arbuscula, Dalhousia, Roxburghia, are found
on the ascent which is moderate and pretty.
The heavy tree or bamboo jungle does not begin until you attain 12 or
1,500 feet, up to that, the ridges present the former grasses.
Rottboellia, Andropogons, Erianthus, Saccharum, Anthistiria, and the
trees are scattered consisting of Arborescent Leguminosae, Sterculia,
Cedrela, Semicarpus continues to the tree jungle, but rarely.
The road to the village runs through heavy woods, the plants forming
which I have already mentioned, it is in good order. The village is a
Lalung one.
At Dullagong, which is situated in the plains of Assam, at the foot of
the range the temperature being 66 degrees, 8.5 A.M., water boiled at
211.1 degrees in the large thermometer. 100 centigrade, and above the
boiling point in the wooden. 205.5 degrees in the small metal
thermometer.
Between this and Goba, the path is generally through grass or tree
jungle. I noticed Exacum, Careya, Butea arborea, Ficus, Cinchona, Kydia,
Saccharum Megala fuscum masus, Spathodea, Alstonia, Bombax, Semicarpus!
AEgle Marmelos, Emblica, Panax, Elephantopus, and Lagerstraemia Reginae
succeeds about Goba: and between this and Dhumria, the country being low
and highly cultivated, presents generally the appearance of one sheet of
rice. In this march I observed one or two instances of the absolute
enclosure of Dicotyledonous trunks by Fici. This enclosure arises
entirely from the excessive tendency to cohesion between the roots and
radicles of some of the species of this genus. With these, an expert
gardener might produce any form he likes; the tendency exists in all to
throwing out additional roots; in few only to excess. In the generality
it is limited to the trunk and often to its base. Nobody can understand
this genus who cannot study it from living specimens.
Cardiopterus is very common along the foot of these hills: it abounds
with milky juice, and in habit and some other points approaches nearer to
Chenopodiaceae than Sapindaceae.
_December 7th_.--Returned from Jeypore, whither I had been to report on
the Caoutchouc trees. {193}
These trees appear to be limited to the belt of jungle or toorai which
commences towards the foot of the Aka and Duphla hills, and which in the
part in which I examined them is about 8 miles wide. They are said to be
found likewise among the neighbouring villages, but I saw no instance of
this. They occur solitarily, or at most in groups of two or three. They
appear to be more frequent towards the immediate base of the hills, and
to prefer the drier parts of those humid and dense forests called toorai.
They are frequently of vast size, and by this as well as their dense
head, may be at once recognised even at a distance of a few miles. Some
idea of their size may be formed from the following measurements of a
large one:
Circumference of main trunk, 74 feet
Ditto, including the supports, 120 "
Ditto, of space covered by crown branches, 620 "
Height, ditto ditto, 80 to 100 "
The roots spread out in every direction on reaching the ground; the
larger running along the surface, their upper portion being uncovered:
occasionally they assume the form of buttresses, but never to such a
marked degree as occurs in some other trees, such as the Simool,
Herietiera, etc. The supports are only thrown out towards the base of
the principal branches, not as in the banian at indefinite distances. The
trunk is a compound one, formed entirely by the mutual cohesion of roots;
not as in almost all other trees by the growth of parts in an ascending
direction. Its aspect is picturesque and varied, occasionally putting on
the appearance of sculpture. It is, I think, doubtful whether this as
well as some other species of the genus are not to be considered as
genuine parasites, at any rate they generally cause the destruction of
the tree on which they originally grew. If this be the case the
parasitism is the reverse of that which occurs in Cuscuta, in which the
plantule draws its first nourishment from the earth, relinquishing this
when sufficiently developed to enable it to draw its supply from other
plants. I may here observe, that parasites are common on the peepul,
contrary to the statement of M. DeCandolle.
The destruction of the foster-mother takes place by the mutual
interlacement of the roots, which descending irregularly, form at first a
strong net-work, subsequently becoming a cylindric binding, in the
strongest possible way to the trunk, and preventing all lateral
distinction. The hollow occupied by the trunk when dead may become
filled up, when this has passed away, by other roots. The adhesion of
the roots commences by abrasion of the bark, the union subsequently
becomes of the most intimate kind. The supports are perfectly
cylindrical; they become conical only towards the earth, on approaching
which they divide into roots: they are strictly descending growths, and
as such, under ordinary circumstances, they never produce leaves, etc.
Roots likewise issue from every section of the bark of sufficient depth
to reach the outer layer of wood, with the outer fibres of which they are
obviously continuous. To such an extent is this carried, that transverse
sections of young supports assume the appearance of coarse paint-brushes
or tails. The lenticells, which are very numerous, have nothing whatever
to do with their production; if the bark remains entire, no roots are
thrown out except by division of the apex. The branches ascend
obliquely, the outermost running nearly horizontally.
The juice is obtained from the larger; that from young parts is less
thick: an exposed semi-denuded root, is selected for transverse incisions
through the bark, from which alone the juice flows, a small hole is made
in the ground immediately beneath the incised parts into which a leaf,
generally of Phrynium capitatum is placed: it is collected in this simple
manner in a very clean state, far more so than that which can be
collected from the tree in any other situation. On issuing, it is of a
very rich pure white; if good, of the consistence of cream: its
excellence is known by the degree of consistence, and by the quantity of
caoutchouc it contains. This is ascertained by rubbing a few drops up in
the palm of the hand, which causes the watery juice to separate (probably
by evaporation) from the caoutchouc which remains in the form of small,
oblong, or round portions; and by kneading this in the hand, and striking
it sharply once or twice with the fist it acquires elasticity, so that an
additional test of excellence is at once pointed out. Many incisions are
made in one tree, the juice flows rapidly at first, at the rate of sixty
drops a minute from an ordinary incision, but this soon becomes so much
diminished that it dwindles to eight. The bleeding is continued for two
or three days, when it ceases spontaneously by the formation of a layer
of caoutchouc over the wound; and it is to the commencement of this that
the rapid diminution in the number of drops is perhaps to be attributed.
The quantity obtained from one tree has not exactly been ascertained; by
some it is stated to be as much as four or five maunds, while others say
that a moderate tree will only yield one gurrah full, or about ten seers.
From the slowness with which it flows, I should consider half a maund to
be a fair average for each bleeding. The juice is, however, said to flow
faster at night, but this demands verification.
The operation is repeated at the end of eighteen or twenty days. In
seven miles of jungle we observed eighty trees, by far the greater
portion of which were of large size. Lieutenant Vetch has made a
calculation, (on the assumption that they are equally plentiful
throughout Chardowar,) that the number in this district alone is ---
trees.
I calculate the number to be about 20,000. There is no reason for
supposing that they are not equally abundant throughout Noadwar, nor in
fact on any line where toorai prevails between Goalpara and Bishnath;
beyond this, however, the increase in latitude may occasion their
decrease both in number and size. On the southern side of the valley
there is every reason to believe it to be equally common. The general
geographic range may hence be said to be in latitude 24 degrees, to 26.5
degrees in longitude. It has been stated by Mr. Royle that it does not
extend beyond Pundua, Jynteapoor, and Churra Punjee, but on no other
authority than that it had not been found elsewhere.
Taking the number of trees at 20,000, and the produce of each from four
bleedings at two maunds, the annual supply that may be obtained from
Durrung may be estimated at 13,000 maunds of the caoutchouc itself,
assuming Dr. Roxburgh's proportion of one to three to be nearly correct.
Some idea may be formed of the extent to which it is procurable, when
from the mere outskirts of the forest, 300 maunds of juice may be
collected in one month.
On the excellence of the Assam product as compared with that of America,
it does not become me to pronounce. If strength, elasticity, clearness,
and perfect freedom from viscidity, be tests of excellence, then this
product may be considered as equal to any other. It has been pronounced
by persons in Calcutta to be excellent, but no details have been entered
into except by Mr. Bell, who objects to its snapping: if by this we are
to understand snapping on being pulled too much, in contradistinction to
breaking, it only proves its excellence. It is declared to be inferior
to the American by Mr. McCosh, evidently on examination of the worst
possible specimens.
The size of the trees as they generally occur in the limits above alluded
to, entirely precludes all idea of any great liability to be destroyed by
the extraction of juice, the amount of which must be so minute, compared
to that of the whole tree. Still it may be considered desirable for the
security of the tree to limit the bleedings to the cold months, and this
is rendered more necessary by the inferiority of the juice during the
season of active vegetation. And if it be possible to limit the number
of bleedings of each tree to four or five during the above period, I
consider that the present 3,000 stock cannot fail to be kept up. But to
venture on still larger supplies, to meet the demand for this most useful
article, a demand to which limits can scarcely be assigned, the formation
of plantations should be encouraged, the sites chosen to be near the
villages bordering on the line of the natural distribution of the tree.
Propagation by cuttings or layers cannot fail to be of easy and rapid
application; and if we consider that the tree is the most valuable
receptacle of the lac insect, there is every reason to suppose that the
natives will readily enter into such views.
The jungle in which the tree occurs is of the usual heavy description,
presenting in fact no one feature in particular. The trees are all of a
tropical nature, except towards the foot of the hills, when two species
of chesnut and one of alder begin to shew themselves.