_Journal towards Assam and to Bootan--contains notes on_
_distribution of Plants_.
Left Calcutta a second time on the 31st August 1837, arrived at Serampore
on the 1st September, and spent the day with the Voights.
_September 3rd_.--Continue on the Hooghly: paddy cultivation prevails
and Crotalaria juncea; this last is sown broadcast in low places, but not
quite so low as paddy. Bengallees are but slovenly husbandmen; grass,
etc. collected by them in small cocks, and covered with a small thatch,
which answers its purpose as well as a narrow brimmed hat would answer
that of an umbrella. Broken earthenware not unfrequently visible in the
banks, in some places at the depth of 3-4 feet. Unsettled weather, with
gusts of strong wind from the S. and SSE. Thermometer 78 degrees 82'.
The usual Calcutta birds continue, jackdaw-like crow, Falco
pondicherainus, two common mainas, Ardea indica, and the white one.
Came on the Ganges about noon; on passing Chobda had the horror of seeing
the bodies of burning Hindoos, the friends who are present at these
funeral rites turning them about with sticks, so as to give each side its
share of fire. The women bathe in their ordinary dresses: these though
ample are of fine cotton fabric, so that when wet more of the shape is
disclosed than is deemed desirable in Europe, but exposure of person has
no repugnant effect on Asiatics.
The Matabangah is a small, very tortuous, stream, not exceeding 70 yards
in breadth: the banks are low, either wooded to the edge or covered with
grass, such as Cynodon. Excellent pasturage prevails, as indicated by
the number of cows.
_Monday 4th_.--Wind SE. There are not many villages in the vicinity of
the river; passed yesterday Kranighat, where there is a toll, from which
officers on duty are exempt; but as no precautions seem to be taken to
keep the river clear, no toll whatever should be taken: although the
latter is high, the receipts must be very small. Passed Arskally about
noon, the banks are composed occasionally of pure sand, and the country
becomes more open, with very little jungle, much indigo cultivation
occurs. Thermometer 78 degrees 85'.
_Tuesday_, _5th_.--Wind SW. The country continues the same as before. At
2 P.M., we reached Krishnapoor.
_Wednesday_, _6th_.--8 A.M. We left the Matabangah river and entered a
less tortuous nullah. The country continues the same. Much indigo
cultivation still occurs. We saw yesterday evening a large herd of cows
swim across the Matabangah; they were led by a bull, who kept turning
round every now and then to see whether his convoy was near him. Today I
saw a rustic returning from his labours, with his plough thrown easily
across his shoulders; to a strong Englishman the feat of walking home
with such a plough, cattle, and all would not be very difficult. Indigo
is cut about a foot from the ground, then tied in bundles. Water for
steeping it in is raised from the rivers by something like chair-buckets,
only the buckets are represented by flat pieces of wood, the whole is
turned on an axle by the tread of men; the water is carried upon an
inclined narrow plane; the machine answers its purpose very well, and the
natives work it with great dexterity. At 5 P.M., we came on a stream 100
yards wide, down which we proceeded.
_Thursday_, _7th_.--The country continues much the same. Of birds the
black and white peewit is not uncommon;--cormorants, etc. also occur.
P.M. Thermometer 90 degrees.
_Friday_, _8th_.--The country is more low and more sub-divided by rivers
than before. Abundance of indigo. Pumps also used, as before observed,
for raising water. Passed Moodoo Kully at 5 P.M., and left its river for
a small nullah. Indigo abundant on all sides throughout the day's
journey.
_Saturday_, _9th_.--Continue in this nullah. Country wooded. Phaenix
sylvestris very abundant: Areca Catechu also becoming abundant. A good
deal of cultivation occurs, mottled chiefly with sugar-cane and
vegetables. The habits of the black and white kingfisher, Alcedo rudis,
are different from those of the other Indian species: it never perches,
choosing rather the ground to rest upon: it builds in banks: takes its
prey by striking it from a height of 20 feet or thereabouts, previously
fluttering or hovering over it. The size and figure of this bird when
resting on the ground, resembles the two common Indian Terns.
Palms, contrary to what might be supposed from the nature of these
plants, can put forth additional buds;--this is exemplified in phaenix
sylvestris, the stems of which are deeply and alternately notched by the
natives for procuring toddy. When this is carried to a great extent, the
tree either dies or a new apex is formed laterally. The old notches, as
might be expected, at length, become much obliterated. It is from the
study of such palms that much light will be thrown on the growth of
monocotyledonous stems. The vegetation of jheels is now obviously
commencing. Pistia stratioles, Nymphaea, Potamogeton, Potamochloa,
Oplismenus stagninus, and Villarsia occur. Reached Furreedpore at 7 P.M.
_Sunday_, _10th_.--Came on the Paddo, an immense stream 1.5 miles wide,
with a very strong current, about a mile to the East of Furreedpore.
Lagerstraemia Regina here occurs.
_Monday_, _11th_.--The country is become much lower since leaving
Furreedpore, and is inundated during the height of the rains. The
peculiar vegetation of jheels predominant; that of the jungle continues
much the same. Plhugoor continues plentiful. No palmyras. Mangoes
plentiful, but small. Passed a deserted Roman Catholic Chapel, and
Priest's house. White-winged long-nailed water-hens becoming plentiful.
_Tuesday_, _12th_.--The country abounds more in jheels: in many places
nothing is visible but water, in which huge plains of floating grasses
occur. The villages are very numerous, and occupy in fact almost every
spot of ground not subject ordinarily to inundation. Damasonium Indicum,
Nymphaea pubescens occur in profusion. The grass which exists in such
vast quantities is, I believe, Oplismenus stagninus. The water of these
jheels is clear, black when deep, which it often is to a great extent.
_Wednesday_, _13th_.--Reached Dacca about 2 P.M.: it is a large and
populous place. The numerous grass of the jheels is sown there: it is
the red bearded _dhan_ or paddy grass: of this vast quantities are cut
for fodder, for, the whole face of the country being overflowed, it
follows that the cattle are throughout the rains kept in stalls.
_Thursday_, _14th_.--Left about noon, and proceeded down the Dacca river
about 5 miles, then diverged into a narrow creek running nearly south.
Along this were observed fine specimens of tamarind trees. Stravadium in
abundance. Sonninia scandens, and Mango, both in abundance. Passed at 5
P.M. Neerangunge, a large native town, and below it Luckepoor. A vast
expanse of water appeared near this, viz., the Megna. A good deal of
native shipping occurs, consisting of brigs: great quantities of rice
being exported from both places. Pelicans I observed here to roost in
trees.
[View in the jheels: p154.jpg]
Friday, 15th.--In the midst of jheels: the whole face of the country is
covered with water several feet deep. Vast quantities of Oplismenus
stagninus still occur.
_Saturday_, _16th_.--Still in jheels. The same features continue. The
country is still very populous, all the more elevated spots having
villages. Oplismenus stagninus still prevails in vast quantities.
_Sunday_, _17th_.--Jheels in every direction:--nothing indeed seen but
water, with occasional grassy or reedy, and elevated spots occupied by
villages:--here and there a round-headed tree springing apparently out of
the water. Hills visible to the east. Cormorants, Ciconia nudiceps,
paddy-birds, the common white ones with black feet, are abundant, and
associate in flocks: there is one very nearly allied to this, which is
solitary, having black feet with yellow toes. The boats of this district
are very simple, something like a Bengal _dingy_ reversed, but they are
sharp in the bows and ought to be fast; their only mode of progression is
to be pushed along by means of poles. There appears to be a great number
of Mussulmans, who would here seem to form the majority of the
population. Strong winds from the south interrupt our progress.
_Monday_, _18th_.--Delayed by bad weather.
_Tuesday_, _19th_.--Continued to pass through same kind of country, but
less jheelly. The Cook boat was left behind on the 17th in a squall, and
has not come up yet, so that I dine with the boatmen.
The black and white long-toed water-hen continues plentiful: when alarmed
by kites, etc. it pursues them uttering a low mournful scream, until it
has succeeded in getting its enemy off to some distance; it then returns,
I suppose to its young; otherwise its cry is something like the mewing of
a cat, or rather a low hollow moan. The hills are plainly visible to-
day, lying towards the north.
The males of the white and black water-hen have tails something like
those of a pheasant. There are two other species: one that is found on
the Tenasserim coast; the other is much larger,--the size, of a large
domestic fowl: one of the sexes, has red wattles on its head. The white
and black one is far the most common; it feeds apparently, in flocks: the
Maulmain one is the least common. These with Ardea Indica, the white,
black-toed, yellow-beaked Ardea, Ciconia nudiceps a small brown _chat_?,
Pica vagabunda, are the birds of the jheels or rather the dry spots in
them. I saw yesterday a flock of the black Ibis, flying _in a_
_triangle_ (>) _without a base_, the party was headed by one of the
white paddy-birds! Villages have become very numerous, and the
population abundant and flourishing. The cattle are, as I have said,
stalled and fed with paddy grass, quantities of boats being employed for
its conveyance. Oplismenus stagninus appears less common about here.
_Thursday_, _21st_.--Still among jheels; our progress is necessarily very
slow; we are indeed scarcely moving, there being no tracking ground:
jheels occur in every direction, although the hills are not 15 miles
distant. Pelicans with white and black marked wings occur, together with
the slate-colored eagle with white tail, barred at tip with black; it is
common in the low wooded places surrounded by jheels. Black-bellied Tern
occurs, but not that of Assam.
_Friday_, _22nd_.--Arundo and two species of Saccharum occur, among which
S. spontaneum, is very common and of large size. We reached the Soorma
river about 12 o'clock, 3 or 4 miles above Mr. Inglis's house.
I arrived at Chattuc on the 21st, which place I left for Pundoa the
following day. There are no mountains of this name as would seem from
the habitat of some plants given in Roxburgh's Flora Indica. The
mountains therein called Pundoa are the Khasya or Cossiah range; Pundoa,
is the name of a village called by the natives Puddoa. The jheels are
for a great part under cultivation. The paddy cultivation is of two
kinds; it is either sown in the jheels just at the commencement of the
inundation, or it is sown on higher portions, and then transplanted into
the jheels. Jarool, Lagerstraemia Regina is the chief timber, it comes
from Kachar; it is a dear and not a durable wood.
Dalbergia bracteata, first appears, on low hills about Chattuc; there is
also a Grimmia here on the river banks.
Porpoises are often seen in the Soorma; alligators or crocodiles, very
rarely.
Jheels continue nearly to the foot of the mountains; these last are not
wooded more than half way up; the remaining wood being confined to
ravines, the ridges appearing as if covered with grass. Here and there,
scarped amphitheatres are visible, down which many fine cascades may be
seen to fall.
Arrived at Mr. Inglis's Bungalow at Pundoa about 3 P.M., and here
regulated my thermometers; temperature of boiling water taken with the
large thermometer 210.5 degrees, by means of the one in wooden case 210.5
degrees, temperature of the air 92.5 degrees, red case thermometer
indicated the boiling point at 206 degrees!! nor would the mercury rise
higher.
_Saturday_, _23rd_.--Commenced the ascent, from Terya Ghat. Up to which
point the country is perfectly flat low and wet, covered for a great part
with gigantic Sacchara; among which partridges are common. Osbeckia
nepalensis, Marlea begonifolia, Gouania, Bignonia Indica, a Panax,
Byttneria, Hedysarum gyrans, Pueraia, Mimosa stipulacea, a very large
Rottboellia, Bauheniae 2, Bombax, Tetranthera arborea, Grewia sepiaria
may all be observed. On the Terya river among stones, and where it is a
pure mountain stream Eugenia salicifolia, as in the Upper Kioukdweng,
between Terya and the foot of the hills occurs; Alstonia, Ophioxylon,
Trophis aspera, Urtica naucleiflora, Varecae sp. Impatiens in abundance,
oranges in groves occur; at the foot Cryptophragmium venustum; rather
higher, Argostemma, and Neckera are common; AEschynanthus fulgens, jack
and sooparee commonly cultivated. Then Oxalis sensitiva, a small tender
Lycopodium; pine-apples, Pogonatherum crinitum; Gordonia soon commences,
probably at 400 feet. Polytrichum aloides appears on banks with
Gordonia; Eurya commences above the first cascade. Choripetalum,
Modecca, Sonerila about two-thirds up to Mahadeb, and Commelina, C.
bengalensis, and Anatherum muricatum continue to Mahadeb, as also
Andropogon acicularis, the Impatiens, etc. No change takes place, in
fact the vegetation being all tropical. Up to this place thick tree
jungle continues; the ridges sometimes are covered with grass, either
Saccharum, Anthistiria arundinacea or Manisuris; scarcely any oaks occur.
Euonymus occurs at Mahadeb. Beyond Mahadeb the scene becomes changed
especially after surmounting the first ridge, the face of the hills is
covered with grasses, interspersed with rocks; the clumps of wooded
vegetation being small, irregular, and composed of barren looking stunted
trees.
Above this ridge the country puts on the appearance of a table land. At
Mahadeb, Staurogyne, Ruellia Neesiana, and Cryptophragmium are common, a
little above these is a species of Zalacca; Impatiens bracteata is very
common from near the foot to beyond Mahadeb; but it becomes small and
disappears before Moosmai is reached. Cymbidium bambusifolium commences
600 feet above Mahadeb. Linum trigynum commences at Mahadeb; Scutellaria
a little above, but I have found this at the foot.
Dianella is found 1,000 feet above Mahadeb, as also Camellia candata;
Plantago, and Eriocaulon 2 sp. appear about 500 feet above Mahadeb; and
continue to Churra. Randia, the common one, is found up to 4,000 feet.
Cinchona gratissima appears at Moosmai. The first Viburnum, also occurs
here. Impatiens graminifolia a little lower. Salomonia, which appears
half way to Mahadeb, continues to Moosmai and Churra, but is stunted.
Vaccinium, Ceratostemma, Crotalaria Hoveoides, Gnaphalia appear towards
Moosmai. Wendlandia at Moosmai. Ruellia persicaefolia straggles a
little lower than these. Smithia commences at Moosmai; Pandanus also;
this is excessively common on hills to the left, towards the caves.
Dipsacus commences above Moosmai.
_Monday_, _25th_.--Churra is situated in a plain surrounded in every
direction by low rounded hills, except to the E. and SE., on which side
there is a deep ravine, the whole plateau rising considerably towards the
north, in the direction of Churra itself. Ravines exist here and there;
it is along these, and the water-courses, that the only woody vegetation
is to be found. The rest of the surface is clothed with grasses, of
which a number of species exist, they are chiefly Andropogoneae. Two or
three Osbeckias exist; a Tradescantia (T. septem clavata) covers certain
patches with its bright blue flowers. Three species of Impatiens, two
with bright pink flowers are common. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonum occur
on the flat rocks, which frequently prevail; Arundinaria is seen every
where as well as a Smithia? with lotus-like blossoms. With regard to
birds, the Motacilla or water-wagtails are seen at Churra and at Pundoa,
are generally of yellow colour in place of white.
The woody vegetation consists of Berberis, Viburnum, Bucklandia, Cleyera
floribus fragrantis, petalis sepalis oppositis, Myrsine and many others,
too numerous indeed to mention.
The woods, towards Churra, assume that rounded and very determinate form,
which is seen so commonly in some parts of England, Bucks for instance.
None of the trees arrive to any great size. The generality are low,
rounded, and stunted. It is in these, that Quercus, Viburnum, and
Pandanus may be seen growing side by side.
_October 4th_.--Took the height of the station, which I make to be
3,921 feet; temperature 74 degrees; water boiled at 205 degrees; in the
small metal thermometer 198 degrees! centigrade 97 degrees; large metal
205.25 degrees; wooden scale 204 degrees.
_October 5th_.--Left for Surureem. On the first height on which the
village is situated, a Potentilla is to be found, and this becomes more
abundant as we continue to ascend. The next European form that appears,
is Fragaria, the height of which may be estimated at 4,200 feet, this too
becomes more common as we ascend; Caryota may be seen, or at least, a
palm tree, in ravines as high as 4,000 feet; Daucus appears at 4,300 feet
in grassy plains; Prunella at about the same, Gerardia at 4,500 feet;
Gaultheria and an Impatiens with very small yellow flowers at 4,800 feet,
as well as Othonna.
With the exception of these, the vegetation is much the same as that
about Churra: but the Balsams of that place disappear almost towards
Surureem, as well as the Tradescantia 7-clavata. Plants which are not in
flower about Churra, are found towards Surureem in perfection.
After the first considerable ascent is surmounted, and which is probably
4,750 feet, the country becomes more barren, the grass more scanty and
less luxuriant. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonium disappear; Xyris
continues in abundance, likewise Eriocaulons, especially the middling-
sized one; Bucklandia becomes more common and more developed; a
frutescent Salix commences at 4,800 feet, as well as a Gramen Avenaceum
vel Bromoideum.
Surureem is a small village, 100 feet above the rude bungalow, provided
for the few travellers who pass this way; close to it is to be found
Zanthoxylum and Hemiphragma, which last commences at Moosmai. The simple
leaved Rubus of Churra, petalis minutis carneis, has ceased; a trifoliate
one foliis cordato-rotundatis, existing instead. Most of the grasses
continue, but all are comparatively of small stature. Two new
Andropogonoids make their appearance: of Compositae, a Tussilaginoid and
a stout Senecionidea, the former not uncommon about Churra, but out of
flower. Salomonia ceased.
The height of Surureem I calculate at 4,978 feet; temperature 65 degrees
Fahr.; of centigrade 19 degrees; water boiled at 95.5 degrees of
centigrade; 203 degrees Fahr., wooden scale; 203.5 degrees large metal;
small ditto 195.5 degrees! Temperature of the air at 6 P.M., 63 degrees.
_October 6th_.--Temperature 6 A.M., 63.5 degrees. Left for Moflong.
There is a considerable rise at first, then the country is tolerably
level until one reaches the Kala Panee, the descent to this is about 7 or
800 feet, thence the rise is great, with a corresponding descent to the
Boga Panee, which I estimate at 4,457 feet, and which is certainly 1,000
feet below the highest ground passed on this side of the Kala Panee.
After crossing this torrent, by means of a miserably unsteady wooden
bridge, the ascent is very steep for about 1,200 feet, thence there is a
small descent to Moflong, which I find to be 5,485 feet. Most of the
plants continue. Tradescantia and Commelina become much less common
towards the Kala Panee, as well as the Impatiens of Churra, but their
place is supplied by others. Along 100 yards of the Kala Panee, upwards
of four species may be met with. Polygonum (Bistorta) becomes more
common on the higher ground between Surureem and Kala Panee, thence
diminishing in size and frequency. Polygonum Rheoides becomes abundant
towards a height of 5,200 feet, when Pyrus, an apple-like species, and
Spiraeas make their appearance at 5,300 feet. On the Kala Panee,
Bucklandia re-appears, but thence would seem to cease: on the brow of the
ascent from this, Pedicularis appears in abundance among grasses, with it
_Sphacele_? At the same height, which cannot be less than 5,400 feet,
Carduus or Cnicus, appears. Solidago commences in the valley of the Kala
Panee, but becomes more abundant at higher elevations. Sanguisorba
appears at 5,400 feet, but in small quantities, and at this height
Anisadenia recommences. Epilobium appears at 5,300 feet, continues at
the same elevation to Moflong, where it is common. On the descent to the
Boga Panee, an European form of Euphorbia appears at 5,000 feet with
Viola Patrinia and a Galium asperum. Hieracium appears at about the same
height. Cuscuta is very common from 5 to 5,500 feet, continuing even to
Moflong; the scales of this genus are, it appears to me, mere appendages
of the filaments, and not due to non-development or suppression of parts.
Erythrina, which is found about Churra, is seen on the road to Kala
Panee, apparently quite wild; altitude 5,200 feet: it recommences at
Moflong, where it is common about villages, but never exceeds the size of
a small tree. Commelina bengalensis? continues throughout here and
there, and may be found even about Moflong.
The most striking change occurs, however, in the Pines, which, although
of small stature, exist in abundance on the north side of the Boga Panee;
so far as may be judged of by the naked eye, they disappear on this side,
about a mile to the westward, very few cross the torrent, and few indeed
are found 100 feet above its bed on the south side. I took the height of
the bed of this torrent. Temperature of the air 72 degrees; water boiled
at 204 degrees; which gives the height about 4,400 feet. Between
Surureem and the Boga Panee, many new plants occur; grasses continue, as
also at Moflong, the prevailing feature. The principal new ones occur on
the descent, consisting of two large Andropogons, one closely allied to
A. schaeranthus and a tall Anthistiria habitu A. arundinacea; a beautiful
Saccharum occurs here and there, especially before reaching the Kala
Panee and the Gramina Bromoidea, which is the only really European form.
On the Kala Panee, scarcely any Podostemon griffithia; except a few small
ones, very few signs or appearance of fresh plants. Along the Boga
Panee, among the wet rocks which form its banks, a fine Parnassia; a
trailing Arbutoidea; a very European looking Quercus; Anesadenia
pubescens, a Circaea, Campanulae 2, AEschynomene, Crotalaria, a Serissa?;
this last continuing to Moflong, a fine Osbeckia, and Gnaphalium
aereonitus may likewise be found. On the ascent, few new plants occur;
Rhinanthoidea, Osbeckia nepalensis, and capitata, Conyzoidea, Dipsacus,
Gnaphalium foliis linearibus, Crotolaria hoveoides, Colutoidea, Pteris
(Aquilina.) Scutellaria, Potentilla, Smilax occur at 5,000 feet with
Plantago, Fragaria and Artemisia, as well as lower down. The most
striking plant is a Delphinium, which, at about 5,000 feet, occurs
stunted; this is common about Moflong.
Agrimonia range from 3,500 to 5,500 feet, where they are very common,
Hypericum three sorts occur, H. myrtifolium commences, about Churra, re-
occurs here and there on the road to Moflong, about which it is very
common. H. ovalifolium, is more elevational, scarcely descending below
5,000 feet; H. japonicum is found from towards Mahadeb to Moflong; H.
fimbriatum foliis decussatis, scarcely below 5,000 feet; Leucas galea
brunneo villosa on grassy hills is common towards Boga Panee, and
continues as high as Moflong.
Quercus commences about Mahadeb: a new species occurs on the edge of
woods towards the Kala Panee; altitude 5,000 feet; it nearly commences
with two Rhododendra, which, at least the arborescent one, arrives at
perfection on the Kala Panee.
Viburna continue; Salix (fruticose) commences about 5,000 feet, continues
here and there to Moflong. Buddleia Neemda is found about Churra, but
not commonly; and soon disappears. B. 4-alata commences beyond the
Churra Punjee, and continues as far as Moflong.
Thibaudia buxifolia becomes less common beyond 5,000 feet; other forms of
Ericineae appear in places about 5,000 feet, Gaultheria continuing as far
as Moflong. Eurya species alterum, commences about the same elevation,
continuing to Moflong.
Three species of Spiraea are found between Surureem and Moflong, none
perhaps below 5,000 feet; Prunella occurs about the same height,
continuing as far as Moflong.
On crossing the Boga Panee, the country becomes perhaps more undulated
and much more barren, scarcely any arborescent vegetation is to be seen,
the little woody vegetation consisting of stunted shrubs. Immediately
around Moflong, the country is excessively bare, not a tree is to be
seen, even the sides of ravines being clothed with stunted shrubs.
Berberis asiatica, Viburna, Spiraea _bella_? Eurya _camellifolia_, Betula
_corylifolia_.
To the north, fine woods are seen, and to the east, fir woods, the
nearest being about 4 miles off. The village is small and wretchedly
dirty, the paths being the worst of all I have seen on these hills. The
houses and the adjoining fields are surrounded with hedges of
Colquhounia, Erythrina, Buddlaea.
In waste places Colquhounia _micrantha_, Cysticapnos, Verbesina, Pteris,
Davallia, etc. are to be found, as well as Codonopsis viridiflora. The
hills are covered with low grass, almost a sward. On this, Potentilla,
Agrimonia, Geranium as well as in fields, Pisoideum floribus cyaneis,
Campanula, Aster disco azureo may be found; on low spots a very small
Parnassia, and a still smaller Ischaemum.
Ranunculus, one species, but this is uncommon; Delphinium is common in
thickets, etc.
The only cultivation is potatoes, a few years since introduced, and which
answers admirably, some turnips and Glycine tuberosa. Cattle, goats and
pigs abundant.
On the whole this is to be considered as the place where the peculiar
vegetation of Churra, arrives at its boundary, for although many of the
plants of the plains are to be found, they are all in a dwarf state.
Noticed a Hoopoo, but birds in general are not frequent.