already aware of the circumstance) that a Society has been lately
established here, as well as in the other Divisions of the Principality,
which has been denominated the “_Cymmrodorion Society in Gwynedd_;” and
whose object is the preservation of Ancient British Literature,—Poetical,
Historical, Antiquarian, Sacred, and Moral, and the encouragement of
National Music. The term Cymmrodorion has been adopted, (as specified by
the Members of the Committee in Powys) more particularly out of respect
to an ancient Society of that name, established in London, 1751, under
the Patronage of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. An Eisteddfod,
or Congress of Bards, was held at Carmarthen, July 8, 1819, under the
sanction of Lord Dynevor, and the Bishop of St. David’s; and another at
Wrexham, September 13, 1820, under the Patronage of Sir W. W. Wynne. A
similar Meeting is to take place at Carnarvon, sometime in the course of
the ensuing Autumn, when our greatly esteemed and highly respected Lord
Lieutenant, Viscount Warren Bulkeley, it is hoped will preside. Several
Meetings have already been held, a Committee formed, and regulations made
in order to promote its success, and ensure a full attendance.
Old Segontium occupies the summit of a hill, about a quarter of a mile to
the South East of the present Town, and is intersected by the road
leading to Bethgelert; its ancient British name was Caer Sallawg: {91} it
is about 150 yards in length, and 100 wide; some remains of the Roman
Walls are still visible, (now covered with Ivy) particularly near the
South East corner. Some years back there appeared the remnant of a
building, made with tiles, and plaistered with very hard and smooth
mortar; this is supposed to have been part of a _Hypocaust_. The mortar
in all other parts is very hard, and mixed with much gravel, and sand.
This ancient Station forms an oblong of very considerable extent,
seemingly from four to six Acres. Camden suspects that this might have
been the _Setantiorum_, Porlus of Ptolemy being willing to read it
_Segontiorum_, but the situation of the former is certainly at the mouth
of the Ribble. He is most probably right, in supposing it to have been,
in after times, named Caer Cwstenin, or the Castle of Constantine; and
that _Hugh Lupus_, who certainly invaded Anglesey, in 1098, had here a
temporary post. Mathew of Westminster asserts, (but upon what authority
is not mentioned) that Constantius, father of Constantine, was interred
here, and that Edward caused the body to be taken up, and honourably
reburied in the Church, (probably of St. Publicius). Mr. Rowlands in his
history of Anglesey says, that Helen, the supposed mother of this reputed
Saint had a Chapel {92} here, which, he tells us, was in being in his
days. Near the steep Bank of the Seiont, about one hundred yards from
the end of Pool Street, and divided by the road leading to Clynnog and
Pwllheli, are the ruins of a Roman Fort, connected, no doubt, with Old
Segontium, and intended, as it is conjectured, to protect the landing
from the river.—On two sides the walls are pretty entire, one is
seventy-four yards long, the other sixty-four; height ten feet eight
inches, thickness six feet. A great part of the facing is taken away,
which discovers the peculiarity of the Roman masonry; it consists of
regular courses, the others have the stones disposed in zigzag fashion.
Along the walls are three parallel lines of round holes, not three inches
in diameter (nicely plaistered within) which pass through the whole
thickness. There are other similar holes, which are discovered in the
end of the Wall, and some to run through it lengthways. There are
various conjectures respecting the use for which these were intended, the
most probable is, that they were for the purpose of holding the
scaffolding, which were supported, it is likely, by cylindrical iron
bars, and when taken out, the air was admitted to harden the mortar,
which was poured into the work in a liquid state. Near one corner, some
years ago, the foundation of a round Tower was discovered; it was paved,
and in it were found the horn of a deer, and skeletons of some lesser
animals. There were similar ruins on the opposite shore, and within
these few years, in scouring the channel of the river, large pieces of a
curious old foot Bridge were discovered, supposed to have been Roman.—A
gold coin, of about seventeen shillings weight, was found here, inscribed
T. DIVI AVG FIL AVGVSTVS. And a small one, of mixed metal, with a head,
and the following legend on one side: ANTONINVS AVG PIVS P P TR. P. XXII.
on the other a female figure, leading a small animal with her right hand,
and holding a spear in her left, and the following letters, SALVTI AVG
COS IIII. And a stone with the following Letters, continued for many
years, in a wall near the road, about the centre of Segontium, and which
has lately disappeared, S V C supposed by some to mean, Segontium urbs
Constantine. Cadwallon, one of the Princes of Wales, about A.D. 620, (on
account of Anglesey being infested by the Irish and Pictish Rovers)
removed the British Court from Aberffraw, where it had been placed about
200 years before, by Caswallon law hir, to Segontium. The Roman road
from Segontium to Dinorwig, and thence to Cornovium, was visible on a
part of Rhos Bodrual, till within these few years, when that part of the
Common was cultivated.
The Mother or Parish Church of Carnarvon, called Llanbeblig, is situated
about one hundred yards beyond, or to the East of old Segontium, and
according to our Historians, is dedicated to St. Publicius, Son of Macsen
Wledig, (Maximus the Tyrant) and his Wife Helen, Daughter of Endef, Duke
of Cornwal.—It is said that he retired from the World, and took a
religious habit. Richard II. bestowed this Church, and the Chapel at
Carnarvon, on the Nuns of St. Mary’s, in Chester, in consideration of
their poverty; and in the recital of another Charter of the same Prince,
it is mentioned that his Grandfather, Edward III. had bestowed on those
Religious, the Advowson of Llangathen, in Carmarthenshire; both which on
the Dissolution, were annexed to the See of Chester, and remain to this
day, under the Patronage of the Bishop of that Diocese. In a recess to
the North of the Communion Table, is an elegant Altar Tomb, with the
following inscription: Here lieth the body of William Griffith, Esq. the
Son of William Griffith, Knight, who died Nov. 28, 1587, and Margaret his
Wife, Daughter of John Wynne ap Meredith, Esq. who built this Tomb, 1593.
{95}—Their figures are in white Marble, lying on a mat, admirably carved;
he is in armour, she has on a short quilled ruff, and ruffles at her
wrists, in a long gown, and a sash around her waist. And in the
Churchyard, some years ago, was the following, which it may be useful to
preserve, as it is very probable that a house in this neighbourhood, _Cae
Bold_, took its name from this family:—Here lyeth the body of Ellin Bold,
Daughter of William Bold, Esq. and Wife to John Ranshcraf, of Breton,
Gent. who died 1st day of April, 1663. And near it the following: Here
lyeth interred the body of John Smyth, of Carnarvon, the elder, who died
the 23d day of May, A.D. 1645. In the late Mr. Foxwist’s pew, in the
said Church, on a brass plate, is the following inscription;
In quo præ multis, scribend i gloria fulsit,
Ricardus Foxwist, hic pede tritus adest,
Annus Christi tutus fuit M.D: luce patrici
Dum tenet expirans, vulnera quinque tua;
Corporis atque tui, tandem pars, aditur alt’ra,
Dum conjux uno, clauditur in tumulo,
Hæcque Johanna fuit, ac _Spicer_ nata Johanne;
Pauperibus larga, justa, pudica; fuit,
Several pleasant excursions may be recommended to the Tourist, whilst
resident at Carnarvon: 1st. He may either cross the Strait by the
Carnarvon Ferry, called Tal y Foel, and examine Newborough, (once the
seat of our ancient Princes) and that part of the Anglesey coast, or,
engage a boat, and sail down to Aber Menai; visit the Barracks, called by
the Welsh Y Belan, and proceed from thence to the once celebrated
Peninsula of Llanddwyn, which, though in the time of Edward III. it
contained only eight small houses, (then called _Weles_,) yet in the
reign of Henry VIII. was one of the richest Prebends in the Cathedral of
Bangor; its wealth arose not from the real fertility of the place, but
from the superstition of the common people—from pilgrimages to crosses,
reliques, Holy wells, ordeals, and what Mr. Rowlands calls
_ichthuomania_, or divination from Fishes.—In the time of Owen Glyndwr,
one Yorwerth Vychan, Rector of Llanddoged, made pretentions to the
Offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them; but Griffith le Yonge,
Chancellor to that Chieftain, interfered, and by a decree of his, put a
stop to the invasion of the rights of the place: Here are still visible
the ruins of the old Church, dedicated to St. Dwywen, Daughter of
Brychan, one of the holy _Colidei_, or primitive Christians of Britain,
who distinguished themselves by living in seclusion and retirement.—Near
it are some of the remains of the prebendal house:—The first appears to
have been no inelegant building; the last is noted for the residence of
Richard Kyffin, Rector of this place, and Dean of Bangor, before
mentioned. The Barracks, above alluded to, were created about 35 or 40
years ago, by the late Lord Newborough, of Glyn Llifon, when he was
Colonel of the Militia of this County, for the accommodation of the men
when called out on permanent duty.
Some of the Inhabitants of Carnarvon are frequently employed in fishing,
during the greatest part of the year, both in the Menai and Carnarvon
Bay; the fish principally taken are the following, viz. Cod, Turbot,
Soles, Salmon, Mullet, Bream, Ray, &c. all excellent in their kind;
Oysters are also taken on the Anglesey coast. There is a small Creek, or
Harbour near the point of Llanddwyn, where vessels frequently put in to
await the return of the Tide. A red and a black Buoy, and also a Perch,
have been placed near the entrance of Carnarvon Bar, for the direction of
Navigators. The Botanist, Naturalist, Sailor, or Sportsman, would find
sufficient employment, and meet with considerable amusement during a
short voyage of this description, as there are varieties of Shells on the
sea shore, some scarce Plants on the rocks, and Rabbits in the sand
banks. The Straits of the Menai have frequently been the scene of many a
bloody encounter between the Welsh, Irish; Danes, &c. and the reader may
not probably be displeased with our introducing here, a part of Gray’s
spirited version of the Rev. Evan Evans’s translation of Gwalchmai’s Ode,
{98a} celebrating the victory of Prince Owen Gwynedd, over three fleets
of Irish, Danish, and Norman Pirates, at Tal y Foel, nearly opposite
Carnarvon, on the Anglesey Coast, about the year 1158: “Ardwyrëaf hael o
hil Rodri,” &c.
Owen’s praise demands my Song,
Owen swift and Owen strong,—
Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,—
Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem:
He nor heaps his brooded stone,
Nor on all profusely pours;
Lord of every regal art,
Liberal hand, and open heart.
Big with hosts of mighty name,
Squadron’s three against him came;
This the force of Erin hiding,
Side by side as proudly riding;
On her shadow, long and gay
Lochlin plows the wat’ry way:
There, the Norman sails afar,
Catch the winds, and join the war;
Black and huge along they sweep,
Burthens of the angry deep.
Dauntless on his native sands,
The Dragon {98b} son of Mona stands,
In glittering arms and glory drest,
High he rears his ruby crest.
There the thund’ring strokes begin,
There the press, and there the din;
_Tal y Moelfre’s_ {98c} rocky shore
Echoing to the battle’s roar;
Check’d by the torrent tide of blood,
Backward _Menai_ rolls his flood;
While heap’d the Hero’s feet around,
Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground:
Where his glowing eye-balls turn,
Thousand banners round him burn;
Where he points his purple spear,
Hasty, hasty rout is there;
Marking with indignant eye,
Fear to stop, and shame to fly:
There Confusion, Terror’s child,
Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild,
Agony, that pants for breath,
Despair, and honourable death.
The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the Llanllyfni Slate
Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were formerly called the Bala
Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and
return by Quellyn Lake and Bettws Village to Carnarvon. Part of this
rout, particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from
Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled Carriage, and
it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that portion of it. The
whole of this circuit, as before described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr,
(a mountain which forms so remarkable a feature in the landscape from
Carnarvon) will make a distance probably of about one and twenty miles.
Persons who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the
County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off after an
early breakfast; they would then be able to return by three or four
o’clock. The first part of the journey, for two miles and a half, is
along the Pwllheli road; about that distance, (a few yards beyond a small
bridge) the turn on the left must be taken, afterwards the Slate Carts
(of which the stranger will meet with a great number) will be a
sufficient direction. It is thought necessary to mention these
particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to point
the way, and but few of the country people understand the English
language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to engage a good
intelligent guide, well recommended by some gentleman resident at
Carnarvon. Pont Seiont (above and below which the Scenery is very
beautiful) is a bridge within a short mile of the town, and between which
and Pont Newydd, (another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,)
there is a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called _Castellmai_,
the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were the following, as appears
by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq.
John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer,
Esq. Sir W. Williams, Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of
Llanfaglan, ditto, John Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn,
Esq. Hugh Griffith, Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.:
Llanwnda Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas Williams,
Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq.
There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last mentioned
bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh Pedigrees) as the
birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron Saint of the Irish; has
genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y Saint, published in the Myvyrian
Archaiology: Padric Sant ap Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg
yn Arvon. Several other places contend for this honor, such as
Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or Clyde’s
Dale) in Scotland, and several places in Ireland. The river _Gorfai_ is
the boundary between the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the
Hundred or Cantrev of Arvon. About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on
the right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain Jones.—This
appears to have been one of the principal Roman Encampments in this
neighbourhood, and to have had several small out-posts connected with it,
which was the case also with Dinas Dinlle, a remarkable _tumulus_, or
eminence, on the sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with
Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of
Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with the
subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter insert. About
a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy, on the right, is Llanwnda, a
small Church, dedicated to _St. Gwyndaf_. The Rectorial Tithes are
annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage,
which is discharged and consolidated with the Chapel of Llan Faglan,
dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai, is in the Patronage of
the Bishop of Bangor. The population of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and
of Llan Faglan 102. Near a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called
Glann y Rhyd, the Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives
within a mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on
the left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and he
will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the Scenery
here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds its beauty
gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it displays itself in
all its grandeur and magnificence. This Defile is bounded on the South
and East by mountains of considerable height and magnitude, which assume
a variety of shapes and characters as we proceed. It was from this
narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson took his
celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and so deservedly
admired; the situation was probably near the Nantlle Lakes, where Edward
I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from thence issued
several of his Edicts, some dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one
from Carnarvon, as late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which
shews what attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his
new Dominions. The place which he occupied here during that time, was
called Bala {103} Deulyn, and had been in the possession of the
descendants of the Welsh Princes, ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as
appears from authorities mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the
Gwydir Family, to which we have before alluded.
The principal Slate Quarries (which are near these lakes) are the Cilgwyn
and Havodlas; here there is a Steam Engine, to supply the place of
another, which lately fell into the quarry, and was broke; they are
situated in the Parish of Llandwrog, (which we soon shall have occasion
to notice in our progress to Clynog) and their produce is conveyed to
Carnarvon. The variation in the size of the Slates took place about 75
years ago; before that time, they were all nearly of the same dimensions,
and very small; but a larger sort having been introduced, it became
necessary, for the sake of distinction, to give them a new name, and
being _doubled_ in size, and also in price, they were denominated
_Doubles_, and one thousand of these were considered and accounted by the
Workmen as equal to _two_ thousand; the first sort was therefore
distinguished by the name of _Singles_.—Some time after, another sort was
introduced, increasing still in size, so as to double those called
_doubles_, and were therefore called _Double doubles_, and the men
counted every thousand of these as four thousand: afterwards a still
larger sort was found necessary, and General Warburton, the proprietor of
the Penrhyn Estate, being in the country about that time, is said to have
given these last, the honorable name of _Countesses_; and the former,
viz. the double doubles, he denominated _Ladies_; since that time two
others of still greater magnitude have been added, which are
distinguished by the names of _Duchesses_ and _Queens_. The colour of
these States, as well as those of Cefn Du, in the Parishes of Llanbeblig
and Llanrug, though of an equally good, if not better quality, differ a
little from those of Cae Braich y Cafn, or Mr. Pennant’s Quarry, the
former being either of a brown cast, or red tinge, while the latter are
of a dark blue. Some of the Welsh have supposed that an ancient prophecy
of Merddyn ap Morvran, (or Merlinus Caledonius) received its
accomplishment when these Quarries were discovered, and so many men
employed, viz. That the time would come, when the rocks of Carnarvonshire
would be converted into bread. It is to be regretted that the
proprietors of these numerous Slate Quarries, do not unite together, and
form a good Iron Rail Road, or tram-way, to Carnarvon, which though it
may be attended with great expence in the execution, would eventually be
productive of considerable advantage to the adventurers.—And as we are
upon this subject, we cannot help lamenting another circumstance which
proves a considerable diminution of the benefits arising from these
sources of support and employment to the labouring Poor, viz. that so
many accidents, by the sudden explosions of charges of Gunpowder, the
falling of Stones, rubbish, and fragments of Rocks, &c. and breaking of
ropes, whereby many of the workmen are lamed and maimed, and others lose
their sight, and thus become chargable to different Parishes. It would
be desirable therefore, to have a Fund for the relief of these poor
sufferers; and for this purpose, the Proprietors, or their Agents, might
easily establish a Club, or Friendly Society, towards which they should
contribute liberally, themselves, and also make such an arrangement, that
a small sum should be allotted, either weekly or monthly, from the wages
of the Labourers, towards their support when incapacitated, either by
casualties or illness, from following their usual occupation; and also
for the purpose of procuring medical advice.
Llanllyfni, before mentioned, is a small Village on the road to
Crickaeth, Penmorva, and Tremadoc.—It is a discharged Rectory, valued in
the King’s Books at £7 17_s._ 6_d._ and dedicated to St. Rhediw, a Saint
(says Mr. W. Owen Pughe) whose history is not known; he is supposed to
have been buried here; and his well, his seat, the print of his Horse’s
foot, and the mark of his Thumb on a Stone, are still pretended to be
shewn. Near the upper end of this narrow pass are some Copper Mines,
where some few workmen are employed, but the Vein is small, and the
quantity of Ore hitherto obtained, though of a good quality, has been
very inconsiderable.
The curious Visitor of these mountainous districts, will be induced, no
doubt, before he descends into the Bethgelert road, to call at
Drws-y-coed, a mountain Farm, near which, in a small Lake, known by the
name of _Llyn y Dywarchen_, is the celebrated Floating Island, mentioned
by Giraldus, and which he denominates _insula erratica_; what is
dignified with the name of Island, is merely a considerable portion of
the Turbery ground, on the side of this small Pool, undermined, and torn
off, and adhering together by the entangling of the Roots, of such Plants
as generally grow on Bogs and Morasses. Here may be found the Nymphœa
lutea & alba, or yellow and white Water Lily, (and other Aquatic Plants)
which are not uncommon in most of the Lakes in the vicinity of Snowdon.
If the Traveller be so disposed, and the weather favourable, he will here
have an opportunity of ascending Snowdon, from the Guide’s House, near
Cawellyn (Quellyn) Lake; from whence there is a tolerable Horse Path till
within a quarter of a mile of the apex, made for the purpose of bringing
down Copper Ore from Bwlch glas, a gap, or opening between the two
summits of Snowdon. This and the one along the side of Cwm Brwynog, in
the Parish of Llanberris, (which we shall hereafter more particularly
describe) are considered the two easiest and safest ascents; and along
either of which, any person, who is a tolerable horseman, may ride a
Welsh Pony, as far as the spot above mentioned.
We shall now conduct the Stranger to the Village of Llanberis, which on
account of its singular situation, at the end of a Lake, in a narrow
Vale, nearly at the foot of Snowdon, is well worth his attention. The
distance from Carnarvon is about ten miles; the first five of which, so
far as a place called Cwm y Glo, (though rough, uneven, and greatly
injured by the Slate Carts) will admit of a Carriage; and from thence a
Boat may be engaged. After travelling about a mile and a half from
Carnarvon, we obtain a view of the River Seiont, and having proceeded
along its banks a short way, we cross it, over a handsome Arch, built in
1769, by one Henry Parry, as appears by a stone in the Battlement, and
where he is underservedly denominated the modern _Inigo_: afterwards we
turn to the left; on an eminence to the right, at a little distance from
the road, is Llanrug, {108} a small Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and
formerly called Llanfihangel yn Rûg. Some years ago, the following
little Sonnet was written on beholding this small structure, after a few
weeks absence:
Oft as yon Fane presents its simple form;
That small shrill Bell, that duly tolls aloud
Each day of rest,—to call the rustic croud;
Yon aged Yew-tree, bending with the storm;
The thought recurs—that by indulgent Heaven,
This humble flock, to feed with constant care,
Their morals form, and truths divine declare,
To me unworthy, has the charge been given.
Then let me still, their faithful Pastor prove,
By precepts teach, and bright example lead
My flock the upward road, to bliss; and read
With fervor due His word, whose name is _Love_!
When thus my work is finish’d, and my race is run,
That Great, Good Shepherd may pronounce “well done.”