The crash of Thunder, and the warring Winds,
Shook by the slow but sure destroyer—Time
Now hangs in doubtful ruins o’er its base;
And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass
Descend; the Babylonian Spires are sunk;
Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down.
This huge rotundity, we tread grows old;
And all those Worlds that roll about the Sun,
The Sun himself shall die and ancient night,
Again involve the desolate Abyss.
After this Monarch had subdued the Welsh, he began to secure his
conquests, by erecting several strong holds, in different parts of Wales,
and it appearing that Carnarvonshire, on account of its Mountains and
Morasses, was a County very likely to encourage insurrections, he
determined to guard as much as possible against such an event, by
erecting this and Conway Castle, two of the completest and strongest
Fortresses in the Principality, and perhaps not inferior to any in the
Kingdom.
The reason generally assigned for the King’s conduct, in bringing his
beloved Queen, Eleanor, to such a distance, and at such an inclement
season of the year, (for it was in the winter) to lie in, is the
following: viz. that perceiving the Welsh remembered but too keenly the
oppressions of the English Officers, who in former reigns had been placed
over them, they peremptorily informed the King, that they were determined
not to yield obedience to any Prince, except one of their own nation; he
found it necessary to make use of an innocent artifice, and a pardonable
piece of policy: he therefore concealed his intentions for a time, and
secretly dispatched trusty messengers to the English Court, in order to
conduct the Queen into Wales; and it is related, that soon after the
birth of the young Prince, he summoned together the Welsh Nobles, and
persons of the greatest rank and influence in the Principality, and asked
them whether they would submit to be governed by a young man born in
Wales, and one who could not speak of word of English, and that when they
answered him in the affirmative, he presented to them his own son, saying
to them at the same time (as well as he could pronounce the words) _Eich
Dyn_, {74} _i.e._ this is your man—corrupted afterwards into ICH DIEN.
It ought however to have been previously mentioned, that the King was at
Rhuddlan Castle, during the Queen’s confinement, and we are informed by
Leland, that when Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd in Anglesey, brought him
the joyful intelligence of the birth of a son, he was immediately
Knighted, and rewarded with one of the Manors of the Welsh Princes,
called Llys yn Dinorweg, in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, now the
property of T. A. Smith, of Vaenol, Esq.—The first Governor of this
Castle, appointed by Edward, was John de Havering, with a salary of 200
Marks; with which he was obliged to maintain constantly, besides his own
family, fourscore men, of which fifteen were to be cross-bowmen, one
Chaplain, one Surgeon, and one Smith; the rest were to do the duty of
keepers of the Gates, Centinels, and other necessary Officers. In 1289,
Adam de Wetenhall was appointed to the same important office. The
establishment for Town and Castle was as follows: The Constable of the
Castle had sometimes £60. at others only £40. The Captain of the Town
had £12. 3s. 4d. for his annual fee; but this office was sometimes
annexed to the former, and then Sixty was the Salary for both. The
Constable and the Captain had Twenty-four Soldiers allowed them for the
defence of the place, at the wages of fourpence per day each. This was
considered as the amount of the establishment during peace. The Porter
of the Gates of the Town had for his annual fee, £3. 10s. The following
are the only instances known, of this place having suffered by the
calamities of war, viz. in the great insurrection of the Welsh, under
Madoc, in 1294, when they surprised the Town, during the time of a Fair,
and put many English to the sword, got possession of this as well as
Conway Castle, and made themselves masters of all Anglesey. During the
rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, about the year 1404, Ieuan (Evan) ap Meredith,
of Eifionydd, and Meredith ap Hwlkyn Llwyd, of Glynn Llifon, had the
charge of the Town of Carnarvon, (as Sir John Wynne informs us), and an
English Captain defended the Castle; when the said Owen Glyndwr and his
party, in revenge at not being able to gain possession, burned Ievan ap
Meredith’s two houses, Cefn y Fann, and Kesail gyfarch. Captain Swanly,
a Parliamentarian Officer, took the Town, in 1644, made 400 prisoners,
and got a great quantity of arms, ammunition, and pillage. The Royalists
afterwards repossessed themselves of the place,—Lord Byron was appointed
Governor,—was besieged by General Mytton, in 1646, and yielded the place
on the most honorable terms. In 1648, the General himself, and Colonel
Mason, were besieged in it, by Sir J. Owen, who, hearing that Colonel
Carter and Colonel Twisselton were on the march to relieve the place,
drew a part of his forces from the siege, in order to attack them on the
way; the parties met at Dalar Hir, near Llandegai, Sir John was defeated,
and made prisoner; after which, all North Wales submitted to the
Parliament.
After this concise History of the Castle, we shall now endeavour to give
a short description of the Town, within the walls, and then proceed to
the suburbs; the former consists principally of seven streets, viz. The
High Street, 2. King Street, or Castle Street, 3. Market Street, 4. Red
Lion, or Plas-mawr Street, 5. Black Boy Street, 6. Newgate Street, and 7.
Church Street; to which may be added, 8. _Pen y Deits_, or the head, or
end of the Ditch or Moat; 9. Hole in the Wall Street, and, 10. Pepper
Alley.
The High Street, which is the handsomest, consists principally of Shops
and Lodging-houses, and has in its centre, (or rather at the entrance
into Market Street) the old Town Hall, and, present Market House, already
noticed; and at the upper or East end, over the Gateway called Porth
mawr, is the present Guild-Hall, formerly an Exchequer Office, it was
re-built in the year 1767, at the joint expence of Sir William Wynn, and
Sir John Wynn, Baronet, as appears by an inscription in front of it; in
the interior are handsome Portraits of each, as also of the late Earl of
Uxbridge, father of the present Marquis of Anglesey. Here the Member for
the Borough is elected; their present Representative is the Hon. Captain
Paget. This place is also used as an Assembly Room, where the Michaelmas
and other Balls, such as those given by the High Sheriff, during the
Assizes, and by Members at elections, are held; and in order to light it
up in a handsome manner, the late Lord Uxbridge presented the Corporation
with a beautiful glass lustre.
The Corporation consists of a Mayor, who is as such Constable of the
Castle; (the appointment is by the King, and continues during
pleasure;—the Office is at present held by the Marquis of Anglesey),
Deputy-Mayor, appointed by the Mayor; Two Bailiffs and a Recorder,
elected annually by the Burgesses; Two Town-Stewards, Two Serjeants at
Mace, One Beadle, Four Sidesmen, and Four Constables, elected annually by
the Mayor and Bailiffs. These go in procession to St. Mary’s Chanel,
29th September, being Michaelmas-day, and after service return to the
Guild-Hall, to elect new Officers for the ensuing year, and admit new
Burgesses. There are Borough Courts held here every fortnight, to
transact business, and to hear and redress grievances; at the second
Court after Michaelmas-day, twelve of the Town Burgesses are sworn as a
Jury, whose business it is to perambulate the liberties of the Town, to
present nuisances and encroachments, as well as to see what repairs are
wanted, and to make a Report of the same. At one of these, the present
entrance to the Castle was presented for consideration, whether it would
not be adviseable to place it in repair, but from the opinion of an
eminent Barrister; who has been consulted on the occasion, it appears
that the Corporation have no authority so to do, the property being
vested in the King, as are also the Town Walls.
High Street is terminated on the West by Porth yr aur, on the outside of
which is a very pleasant terrace walk, on the shore of the Menai, of
which it commends a full view; this and the Bangor road are considered
the two fashionable promenades, of the inhabitants. Edmund Griffith, of
Penrhyn, lived at Porth-yr-aur. Sir Rowland Brittayne, Constable of
Carnarvon Castle, married Agnes, sister to the above Edmund Griffith;
Rowland Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref Arthen, was son of Sir William
Griffith.—This last attended Henry VIII. to France, as Lewis Môn, the
Welsh Bard, informs us in one of his Poems. So late as Fifty or Sixty
years ago, and for a long time prior to that period, several of the
principal families of this and the neighbouring County, had a Town House
at Carnarvon, where they generally used to spend the winter, and others
resided here constantly; most of these were persons possessed of good
incomes, and many of them kept their own carriages, had always a goad
table, and lived in the good old hospitable style of their ancestors, so
that when a gentleman happened to come into the town, if he had any
acquaintance with some of these families, he generally went to his
friend’s house, and not to an Inn. Carnarvon was not at that time become
such a commercial place as it is at present. These houses, and indeed
every gentleman’s residence, was then, and is still distinguished by the
name of _Plas_. The above short introduction was thought necessary in
order to notice some of these old Mansions, which have either been taken
down, deserted, or converted to other uses: Plas Issa, at one time the
property of the Coed Helen Family, and Porth yr aur, belonging to the
late Evan Lloyd, of Maes y Porth, Esq. were two old houses of this
description, at the lower end of this street, the one taken down, and the
other in ruins; Plas Bowman, between Church Street and Market Street, was
another, and in King’s Head Street, there is one still left, _Plas
Llanwnda_, where the proprietor, R. Garnons, Esq. resided for several
months in the winter; and with true gentlemanly politeness supports the
ancient credit of the House, for munificence and hospitality, and kind
attention to the wants of the poor. Quirt is another house in this
street, at one time belonging to the Williams’s of Quirt, in Anglesey,
and of Glan yr afon, in this County, which was made use of several years
as an Inn. In this Street also, at the back part of a public house,
called Glan yr afon, is an old building; supposed to have been at one
time either a Chapel belonging to the garrison, or to some private
family. Plas Spicer, in Church Street, is an old house which claims our
attention next, once belonging to a family of that name, but which has
long since been extinct. Plas Mawr, belonging to William Griffith, Esq.
a branch of the Vaenol and Penrhyn families, then resident at Trefarthen,
in Anglesey, and Plas Pilston, the present Red Lion, are the two last we
shall mention. There is a handsome Monument to the memory of the former
at Llanbeblig, which we shall notice when we come to describe that
Church, over the door are the following initials, W.G. M.G.—in another
part, J. G. M. G. date, 1590. With respect to the latter, it is
remarkable only on account of its antiquity, and the fate of its original
Proprietor, Sir Roger de Puleston, a distinguished favourite of Edward I.
He had been appointed Sheriff, and Keeper of the County of Anglesey, in
1284: what office he held here is uncertain; but being directed in 1294,
to levy the subsidy for the French war, a Tax the Welsh had never been
accustomed to, they took up Arms, and hanged De Pulesdon, and several of
his people. This was a signal for a general Insurrection,—Madoc, a
Relation of the late Prince Llywelyn, headed the people of this County.
Edward marched against them in person, and with great difficulty reduced
the country to submit again to his yoke.
In Newgate Street, is the County Gaol, built about 18 or 20 years ago, by
Mr. Penson of Wrexham; it was then considered by much too large, but we
lament to say that at present it is frequently crowded; adjoining, but
fronting Ditch Street, is the County Hall, at the West end of which is
the Grand Jury Room, both spacious and commodious. In the former, over
the Bench, is the likeness of J. Garnons, Esq. at one time Prothonotary
on this Circuit; in the latter, that of Hugh Leycester, Esq. our highly
respected Chief Justice: a gentleman, who by his upright conduct,
inflexible integrity, just and impartial decisions, and deep legal
knowledge, has deservedly acquired a very high reputation in his
profession; and who by his politeness of manners, and affability of
demeanour, has justly endeared himself to the Inhabitants of this part of
the Principality, and particularly to the Gentlemen of this County, who
wishing to retain among them the resemblance of the person whom they so
highly esteem and respect, and with whom they have been in the habit of
friendly intercourse for many years, have requested him to sit for his
picture, the expence of which was defrayed by voluntary Contributions;
from the eagerness to come forward on the occasion, the Subscription was
completed in a very short time, besides leaving a handsome surplus in the
hands of the Committee, who gave £20 of it to the Widows and Orphans of
those who perished in the Brig Elizabeth, which was upset and lost early
last year, near Carnarvon Bar; the remainder is placed in the Bank, to be
appropriated to the first charitable purpose that offers. Adjoining the
Grand Jury Room are the Offices of the Prothonotary and Clerk of the
Peace, and near to these, outside of the walls, at the extremity of the
Quay or Pier, is the Custom-House, a substantial and convenient modern
Building.
St. Mary’s Chapel, is situated on the North West, of the Town, adjoining
one of the Towers of the Wall: it is represented by most authors, as
having originally been built for the use of the Garrison, and to have
afterwards been claimed by the Corporation. Some years ago, either the
Curate, or the Clerk by his direction, used to go about the town at
Easter, to collect Donations and Subscriptions, for performing English
Service, in this Chapel. It is now generally called the Town Church, and
is served by the Vicar of Llanbeblig. It was rebuilt in the year 1812,
(with the exception of the old arches) partly by Subscription, assisted
by the Corporation, who annually let a number of Pews as their property.
The Marquis of Anglesey presented them with an excellent Organ, which is
considered a very fine toned Instrument.
The Suburbs, or Town without the Walls, consists of the following
Streets: viz. Porth-mawr Street; the Bank or Dock Quay, where there are
several good brick houses; Y Pendist, or Turf Square; Crown Street;
Bangor Street; Old Boot Street: North Pen yr allt, or Toot-Hill Street;
South Pen yr allt, formerly called, Stryd y Priciau Saethu; Pont Bridd,
or Bridge Street; Stryt y Llyn, or Pool Street; Treffynon, or Holywell;
Tre’r Gof, or Smithfield; Skinners Lane; Y Maes Glas, or Green; and the
Green Gate Street.
Carnarvon is greatly improved, and considerably enlarged within these
last thirty years;—at the entrance from Bangor, the Uxbridge Arms Hotel,
a large, handsome, and commodious Inn, was built by the late Lord
Uxbridge, which is kept by Mr. George Bettiss, and where the Traveller
will meet with every attention and civility, and will find the
accommodations excellent, and the charges reasonable.—Within the same
period was erected that handsome row of houses called the Green,
terminated on the East side by the Goat Inn, built by Thomas Jones, Esq.,
of Bryntirion, who is the proprietor thereof; here also the Stranger will
meet with every attention, and where the accommodations are good, and the
charges moderate. In front of these houses there was a high bank, some
years ago, which, besides intercepting the view, was very inconvenient to
ascend and descend, particularly at the time of fairs, which are held
here; this was removed about four years ago, partly by Subscription, but
chiefly at the expence of the Parish and Corporation, who employed the
Poor during those dear Times, in removing the earth, and wheeling it down
to the Quay, which also was erected about eighteen years ago, and has
lately been extended, and rendered more spacious and convenient, so that
it now affords every facility and accommodation to Vessels loading and
unloading. The Slate Quarries, (as has before been observed) are the
chief sources of the Wealth and Commerce of this County; and in these,
thousands of the Inhabitants, are constantly employed; and scores, if not
hundreds of Waggons and Carts are engaged in bringing down the
productions of the Quarries to this Town, where they are shipped to
various parts of the World. The average annual Amount of Exports from
Port of Carnarvon, is at present, about £50,000, but there is every
reason to suppose, that, were Rail-roads formed from the several Slate
Quarries in the neighbourhood, the Export Trade would be very much
increased; as then a supply of Sates might always be secured on the
Quays; whereas now, from the uncertainty of such supply, and the
consequent delay, proprietors and masters of Vessels are unwilling to
expose themselves to the risque of incurring a heavy expence, in waiting
their turn to load; this operates more particularly on large Vessels,
their expences being heavy, in proportion to their size; and it is
certain, that many Americans and other foreigners, are deterred by these
circumstances from coming to this Port for Slate.
The long desired Light on Bardsey Island, the establishment of which is
now decided on, and which it is intended by the Corporation of Trinity
House, shall be exhibited in the ensuing Autumn, is likely to prove of
incalculable benefit; not only to the Coasting Trade of this and the
neighbouring Ports, but to Trade in general.
Steam Packets might be established between Carnarvon and Dublin. At
times when the tide might not answer for landing at the Town, on account
of the difficulty of passing the Bar, they would always find a safe and
commodious landing place at Llanddwyn Point, about seven miles distant
from Carnarvon; with the capability of a good Carriage Road to the Town
being made, at a small expence. The late improvements at Llanddwyn, have
rendered it particularly eligible for the above purpose, the Trustees of
Carnarvon Harbour having erected a Breakwater, and Beacon, for the safety
and comfort of Navigators. The distance from Carnarvon to Capel Curig,
through the beautiful and romantic Pass of Llanberis, is eighteen miles;
from Holyhead, by Bangor Ferry forty-two miles: The traveller would
therefore save twenty-four miles, by adopting the former line.
This Town is capable of much improvement, as a place of resort for
strangers, particularly in the Summer season; at which period, it is even
now visited by many, but from the want of sufficient comfortable
accommodation, and other conveniences to induce them to remain, a weekly,
nay almost a daily change is observable, in a continued succession of
visitors. Were comfortable Lodging Houses erected, with Baths attached,
(which might be done with much ease) and the shore cleared, at certain
convenient points, with public Machines, and Attendants, there is little
doubt of this delightfully situated Town, becoming in a short time a
favourite Watering Place, and consequently, improving rapidly.
Edward I. bestowed on Carnarvon its first Royal Charter, and made it a
free Borough: among other privileges, none of the Burgesses could be
convicted of any crime committed between the Rivers Conway and Dyfi,
unless by a Jury of their own Townsmen. The representative of the place
is elected by its Burgesses, and those of Conway, Pwllheli, and
Crickaeth; the right of voting is in every one, resident, or
non-resident, admitted to their Freedom. Bondsmen in former times,
living in the Town a year and a day, and paying scot and lot, gained
their liberty, and in those days Jews were not permitted to reside here.
The first member was John Puleston; and the second time it sent
representatives, (which was the 1st Edward VI) it chose Robert Puleston,
and the County elected John, as if both Town and County determined to
make reparation to the family, for the cruelty practised on their
ancestor. It gives the title of Marquis to James Brydges, Lord Chandos;
and that of Earl, to Henry Herbert, Baron Porchester, who was created a
Baron Oct. 17, 1780, and advanced to the Earldom June 29, 1793. Leland,
who travelled through this County, in the time of Henry VIII. makes the
following observation, with regard to the situation of Carnarvon, in his
Itinerary, “Cadnant brook, rising three miles off, cometh through the
Town Bridge of Caernarvon, and goeth by itself into the Menai area, so
that Caernarvon standeth betwixt two Rivers, both coming into the said
straits of the Menai.”
In this Parish there are 700 Houses assessed for Poor’s Rate, 517 of
which are in the Town; adding to these the number of families excused
from poverty, and those who receive parochial Relief, it may reasonably
be inferred, that the Population of Carnarvon is about 6000, exclusive of
Mariners. There needs no other observation on the salubrity of the air,
than the following extract from the Report of the Select Vestry of
Carnarvon, in 1819:—“Among those who receive Parochial Relief, are 19,
aged from 80 to 90 years; 28, from 70 to 80; 42, from 60 to 70; and 39,
from 50 to 60.”
In the Town are the following Dissenting Chapels, a Presbyterian Chapel
in Bangor Street,—the Calvinist’s at Pen yr allt,—the Wesleyans’ in
Smithfield, or Tre’r gof, and the Baptists’ at Treffynon. There are five
Fairs held annually at Carnarvon, viz. March 12th, May 16th, August 12th,
September 20, and December 5.
The following beautiful Stanzas, appeared in the North Wales Gazette,
November 27, 1812, signed JUNIUS, which may not be thought out of place
here; they were written by Mr. B. Brocas, at that time residing in this
Town:
Does thy Harp, O Cambria, Slumber?
Are thy sainted Bards no more?
Once it breath’d a sweeter number
Than e’er sigh’d round Scylla’s shore.
Where are now those magic wonders,
Which its touch could once inspire?
Where thy Minstrels’ martial thunders,
Glanc’d from hands and lips of fire.
Are thy glories sunk for ever,
Are they set to rise no more?
Must we henceforth hail them never,
On this muse-deserted shore?
Yes! prophetic Science hear’s me,
Thus bewail her ancient seat,
Lifts her spoil crown’d head, and cheers me,
Echoing thus the cry of fate:—
“Thy bless’d shade, O Taliesin!
Waft on soft Elysian gales,
To impart thy heav’n-taught lesson,
To some favour’d child of Wales.
“Let Thy Spirit hover o’er him,
Strike him with thy hallow’d fire:
Prostrate nations shall adore him,
Deck’d with Thy immortal lyre.
“Thus shall Cambria once more flourish,
High, as e’er in times of yore;
And her sacred soil, still nourish
Heav’n born bards for evermore.”