breadth: the number of Inhabited Houses in 1811, was 158, and of
Inhabitants, 682.—It is a small Rectory, and valued in the King’s Books
at £5 12_s._ 6_d._ When arrived at the foot of a Hill, the road to the
left must be taken, which leads to Cwm y Glo before mentioned, consisting
of a group of Cottages, in a snug romantic situation, greatly and
deservedly admired; and near them a small Harbour, for Boats employed in
fishing, and bringing down Slate and Copper Ore.—On the top of the Hill,
before we descend to this place, there is a circular Rock on the left,
strongly fortified, which was probably a subordinate post to Dinas
Dinlle, Dinas Dinoethwy, and Dinas Dinorwig, before mentioned, and which
being at the entrance of this narrow pass, served to communicate any
signal to Dolbadern Castle, which is situated on a Rock between the two
Lakes, and from whence again, any notice, or intelligence of an enemy’s
approach, was conveyed to the upper end of the Vale, and so on to Capel
Curig, Dolwyddelen, &c. From this Rock there is a most grand and
magnificent view, which on account of its opening suddenly and
unexpectedly, has the effect of enchantment. Snowdon seems to soar in
proud pre-eminence, and to look down upon the surrounding subject Hills
with conscious superiority; some of which however, such as Erlidir, Garn,
and Glydair, on the left, (or North of the Vale) Crib Goch, and Carnedd
Higgon, on the right, appear to rival their Majestic Lord. This grand
scenery,—this wonderful display of the works of the Most High, appears
again to great advantage, as we enter the Lake from the channel of the
River; but before we proceed, it will be proper to give a short account
of a very extra ordinary personage, (_Margaret ferch Evan_,) who lived
near this place, and denominated by Mr. Pennant, Queen of the Lakes.—He
observes further, that when he visited her Cottage, at Penllyn, in 1786,
she was about ninety years of age, and says, that she was the last
specimen of the strength and spirit of the ancient British Fair; but the
correctness of this remark may justly be doubted, as there is a Female,
(Catherine Thomas) now living at Cwm glas, (about a mile above the Church
of Llanberis) who is by no means inferior to Mr. P’s Heroine, either in
strength or agility: the following anecdote related by herself, may be
mentioned as an instance of her uncommon courage; some years age, as she
was one day watching her Sheep on one of the Rocks near her house, she
perceived a Stranger, (to all appearance a very strong, lusty man) enter
in, and having remained there a short time, he departed; Catherine
hastened home, and having examined her Cottage; she discovered that the
Stranger had stolen a Silk Handkerchief, and several other articles of
wearing Apparel; she immediately pursued him, and having taken in her
hand the post of a small gate or wicket, and taking a shorter path, she
overtook him near Gorphwysfa, almost at the upper end of the pass, (a
most lonely situation) and having laid hold of him with one hand, she
shook him well, in order to convince him of her strength, and then struck
him with the club, or rather post, that was in the other, saying at the
same time, You villain! how dare you enter into my house and steal my
property? she then took from him his Wallet, and adding, Let me see what
thou hast got in this bag? then emptying the contents, she took up her
own property, and after giving him one or two more hard strokes, she
charged him at his peril, never to enter that Vale again, otherwise he
would not be suffered to depart without a much severer chastisement. The
following is another instance of her extraordinary strength: Mr. Jones,
the Agent of the Copper Mines at Llanberis, about eighteen years ago, was
superintending the loading of Ore, near the small Quay, at the upper end
of the Lake; and Catherine happening to be one of the Spectators, Mr. J.
went behind her unperceived, and laying hold of her, jocularly said, “now
Catherine, suppose I push you into the Lake;”—presently, she also got
behind him; and though he was a tall, strong, lusty than, she laid hold
of him under the Shoulders, and holding him up nearly at arm’s length,
Now Sir, said she, suppose I drop you in? This extraordinary woman, who
is of a very masculine appearance, and has a pretty long black beard,
lives in a lonely Cottage, situated beyond the usual haunts of her fellow
Creatures, and without a single inmate; and though her appearance is so
unfeminine, yet she is humane, gentle and charitable, esteemed and
respected in her neighbourhood. After this long digression, we hasten to
relate the numerous qualifications, and uncommon exploits of her rival
Amazon, the before mentioned Margaret ferch Evan, whose character I shall
sum up in Mr. Pennant’s own words,—She was the greatest hunter, shooter,
and fisher of her time; she kept a dozen at least, of Dogs, Terriers,
Greyhounds, and Spaniels, all excellent in their kinds.—She killed more
Foxes in one year, than all the confederate Hunts do in ten;—rowed
stoutly, and was Queen of the Lakes;—fiddled excellently, and knew all
our old music;—did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good
Joiner, and made Cards for dressing Wool; and at the age of seventy, was
the best wrestler in the country, few young men daring to try a fall with
her.—Some years ago, she had a Maid of congenial qualities, but Death,
“that mighty hunter,” earthed this faithful companion of her’s; Margaret
was also Blacksmith, Shoemaker, Boat-builder, and maker of Harps:—she
could also mow Hay, shoe her own Horses, make her own Shoes, and build
her own Boats, while she was under contract to convey the Copper ore down
the Lakes. We must not forget, that all the neighbouring Bards paid
their addresses to her, and celebrated the exploits of their beloved
_Margaret_, in pure British verse; at length she gave her hand to the
most effeminate of her admirers, (who was a harper) as if predetermined
to maintain the superiority which nature had bestowed on her.
About half a mile to the North of Pen y Llynn, (or the lower end of the
Lake) are the remains of _Llys Dinorddwig_, a house said to have been one
of the Palaces of Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffydd; the walls high and strong,
the hall twenty-four yards long, and before the house is a deep ditch,
over which had probably been a drawbridge. Not very far from hence is a
spot called Rhiw’r Cyrn, or the Brow of the Horns, where according to
ancient usage, an Officer stood and blew his horn, to give notice to the
Household of the approach of their Master, or to summon the Vassals to
assemble on all emergent occasions. Near this place was discovered,
about twenty years ago, a Stone, about Four Feet in length, one in
breadth, and about Six Inches thick, with the following inscription, IMP
Q TRO DECIO VS.—Persons going up the Lake may be landed either near the
New Inn, or on the Meadow below Mr. Smith’s Cottage, or they may proceed
to the extremity of the upper Pool, and walk from thence to the Village,
which is about a quarter of a mile distant, and procure refreshment at
Robert Closs’s, who keeps a small Inn there; the Landlord of this House,
as well as Pierce Jones, who lives at the other Inn, are both very civil
and obliging men, and will either act as Guides themselves, or will
procure persons to attend any Gentlemen up Snowdon, or to any of the
neighbouring Villages: Ponies may also be obtained at both these Houses:
and though the accommodations may not be equal to what we generally meet
with in large Towns, and on Public Roads, yet the Botanist, the
Mineralogist, the Artist, the Angler, and in short every person who is an
admirer of Nature, and is fond of the wonderful and sublime, will
contrive to remain a few days in this romantic, though secluded spot.
One Day may be well employed in examining Mr. Smith’s Quarries, yr Allt
Ddu, and Clogwyn y Gigfran, and observing the men while at work, many of
whom descend fifteen or twenty yards, by the assistance of two Ropes,
(one about their middle, and the other in their hands) to a small ledge,
over a dreadful precipice, where they continue engaged for many hours, in
boring, or detaching considerable fragments from the main Rock, and
ascend again in the same manner.—A visit to Twll Du, a stupendous _roche
fendue_, or split Rock, near Llyn y Cwn, about three miles North of the
Village, and mentioned by Mr. Pennant, might be recommended, as a very
rational and pleasing amusement for the second Day: this might also
include a walk over Glydair Fawr, to examine the immense columnar Rocks
on Glydair Bach; and noticed by the same Gentleman, one of which it about
25 Feet long, and six broad; the summit of this Mountain is covered with
groups of these columnar Stones, lying in all directions, and in some
places piled one upon the other. From the two Glydairs’ may be seen
several Lakes, such as Llyn Idwal, Llyn Bochlwyd, and Llyn Ogwen; and
also the Great Irish Road, leading from Bangor Ferry to Capel Curig.
From this eminence may also be surveyed that most singular Mountain
called Trevaen, (trifurcated) which is more conical, more insulated, and
more completely detached from all the surrounding Hills and Rocks, than
perhaps any other in the Principality, and it is so steep on every side,
that it is considered, even by the Shepherds, a Feat of great vigour,
agility, and courage, to ascend this stupendous natural Pyramid; and
there being two columnar Rocks on the very summit, about 8 Feet high, and
nearly 4 from each other, and overhanging a most frightful Precipice, and
the space on the top of each very confined, it is thought a proof of
noble daring, to challenge each other to climb up, and step from one to
the other; these stones, at a particular part of the Road from Ogwen Pool
to Capel Curig, have the appearance of two men, and it is jocularly
related by the Peasants, that a Gentleman once stood a considerable time
expecting them either to move or come down. The Mountains in this part
of Carnarvonshire, (observes Mr. Pennant) are of a stupendous height,
mostly precipitous, the tops of many edged with pointed Rock; I have,
from the depth below, says he, seen the Shepherds skipping from peak to
peak, but the point of contact was so small, that from this distance,
they seemed to my uplifted eyes, like beings of another Order, floating
in the Air. And lastly Snowdon, will no doubt occupy one or two days
more, in a most pleasing and agreeable manner.
There are three different Routs by which Strangers are generally
conducted up this celebrated Mountain: the best, and most usual, is that
commencing between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near the Bridge, and
following the course of the River for about a quarter of a mile, and
passing very near the Waterfall called Caunant Mawr, then turning to the
left, and pursuing the Copper Sledge path-way, along the South slope of
the ridge of Hills between the upper vale of Llanberis and Cwm Brwynog,
as far as the Sheep-fold, and the Copper Mine at the upper end of Waun
Cwm Brwynog; then turning to the left, (or North) and winding up the side
of the slope or ridge, cross over till we are in view of the Llanberis
pass, above the Church. During the first part of our progress, the view
was confined, but here on this mountain flat, the prospect is extensive,
particularly to the North West, where the greatest part of the Island of
Anglesey is visible; and to the East, a portion of Denbighshire may be
seen, between the mountains. We now begin to ascend Llechwedd y Re, the
formidable slope above Llyn du yr Arddu, or otherwise, Clogwyn Coch, and
Clogwyn du’r Arddu, the two precipices impending over that once black,
but _now green_ Pool; (from the effects of the Copper) after this last
ascent is surmounted, the progress is easy, and the rise very gradual,
for upwards of half a mile, till we join the Bettws, or Quellyn Copper
Ore path, near Bwlch Glas gap, before mentioned; from thence to the peak
the distance is something more than a quarter of a mile, and the ascent
easy. There was a circular wall formerly on the summit, (which is not
much more than from six to eight yards square) to shelter the visitors
from the cold, but the Bethgelert Guide, named Lloyd, having collected a
sum of money, (about five Pounds as it is supposed) from different
Gentlemen; in order to build a small hut, or shed, he made use of the
Stones for that purpose; but the miserable building which he erected, and
which is nothing more than a heap of stones piled together in the form of
a small Stack of Corn, could not have cost him more than twenty or thirty
Shillings, and is on the east side, about ten yards below the _apex_; but
at present is of no use, as it is nearly coming down:—Here it is usual
for Strangers to leave their names inscribed on the ruins of this small
Building.—Small stones are frequently found near this spot, bearing the
impression of different Shells. From this elevated situation may be
seen, in clear weather, the Wicklow Hills, on the West; the Isle of Man,
and the Cumberland and Westmoreland Mountains, on the North and North
East; and a part of South Wales to the South West: The best time for such
a view are the months of June and July, when it will be necessary to be
on the Mountain before Sun-rise, as mists and fogs generally collect soon
after.—It would not however, be advisable for persons of a tender habit,
or delicate constitution, to attempt such an arduous undertaking,
particularly in the night: at the same time it may be safely asserted,
that no person who is equal to the task, will ever have occasion to
regret having ascended Snowdon, even in cloudy weather; particularly if
the Sun should occasionally appear, as in this aerial region the scenery
and the views are perpetually shifting and changing; and many have been
known to prefer, a partially cloudy or misty, to a hot sultry day,
(though tolerably clear) for such an excursion. We shall here beg leave
to introduce some extracts from a Letter received by a young Lady, in
which her Friend gives a very lively and interesting description of the
pleasure she enjoyed on a visit to Snowden, in such weather as that above
described: “My dear Friend,—I considered myself particularly unfortunate
in not finding you at home, during my visit to North Wales; especially as
I remained so long in your immediate neighbourhood. Perhaps you may
recollect telling me, with what (I must confess) I _then_ thought a
prejudiced affection for your native scenery; ‘that no season or weather,
could deprive Snowdon of its powers of amazing, and delighting.’ The
truth of your remark forced itself into my mind, during two successive
days, on which I ascended its lofty summit. The accounts of those two
days, and the light in which my English feelings regarded your Country
scenes, will, I trust, not be uninteresting. The morning destined for
our first attempt, was ushered in by one of those intense fogs, which
portend a sultry day; the late learned, worthy, and much respected
Counsellor Dancey, was one of the party, and several Ladies and
Gentlemen: I despair of conveying to your mind, any idea of the
high-wrought expectations with which I commenced the ascent of this King
of Hills, and never were expectations more fully answered. The variety,
the constant succession of magnificent scenes, that gradually opened to
our view, are absolutely indiscribable. You may conceive a _group_, (for
we found other parties on the summit) of apparently aerial beings,
standing on an elevated peak, literally above the clouds; for the
glorious source of day, shed his Beams upon our heads, while our feet
were enveloped in mist.—Picture to yourself the Sea, when agitated by a
storm, suddenly arrested by an intense Frost, for such was, absolutely,
the appearance, the congregated mists and clouds, represented to our
astonished and enraptured eyes. In the course of about ten minutes, or a
quarter of an hour, this irregular surface of waves began to break up and
separate; and like an immense Army, sent advanced guards, and columns in
different directions. The commotion, at the first breaking up, and the
regular movements afterwards, were grand and magnificent beyond
description. After these advanced guards (which were generally fleecy,
transparent clouds, with fringes and festoons hanging in different
fantastic shapes, and reflected Beams of the Sun, throwing golden tints
upon their edges) came the main Army. Presently through the mist,
several huge Mountains reared their Leviathan backs, and immense
projections, appearing like so many capes and promontaries, stretching
out into an endless Ocean; while other rocks assumed the appearance of
small conical Islands, in this resplendent abyss. In a short time, these
advancing Armies regularly encamped, or _bovouack’d_ for the night, in
the different passes, and excavations of the mountains; this was not all,
for as we descended, while these beautifully transparent mists were
quietly at rest, some hundreds of yards below us, we suddenly beheld huge
gigantic shadows, thrown athwart the immense abyss. This was about fire
in the evening, for with a reluctance similar to that of our great
progenitors, in leaving Paradise, we lingered on the summit some hours.
We stopped and gazed, our sticks and umbrellas were converted, by the
reflection, into Goliah of Gath’s tremendous club or weaver’s beam;—we
began to brandish these weapons, and to our great amusement and
astonishment, our lengthened bulky shadows gently imitated our different
movements. At length we tore ourselves from these grand and sublime
scenes, and arrived by the dusk of the evening at the pleasant little Inn
of Llanberris. Having been so much delighted the first, I was easily
induced (undeterred by heat and fatigue) to join a party of friends, who
were going up the following day;—about half way, we had a fine distant
view of Anglesey, with the indentures formed in its coast by the Sea; a
thick mist overtook us, and shut the fairy scene from our eyes.—We
reached the summit completely enveloped in clouds, which gradually
opening, the Elyssian Vale of Nanthwynant burst upon the sight; the
clouds soon covered it again, but we were amply compensated by a view of
an extensive tract of Sea and Land, terminated by the faintly marked
outline of South Wales.—Soon another opening presented the romantic
region of Capel Curig, which with the variety of Lakes that appeared on
every side, with the Sun shining upon many of them, afforded a most
enchanting _coup de œil_.—At this moment the attention of the party was
most forcibly arrested by the appearance of our shadows reflected upon
the mists, (but not so lengthened as the day before, as it was earlier in
the afternoon) and encircled by three Rainbows of the most vivid and
distinct colours.—The effect was beyond description. It was then that
the thought of the great Creator of all these Wonders rushed upon the
mind. What an awful, incomprehensible Being must He be, who with one
word, formed these grand and magnificent scenes, and at whose nod, they
shall crumble into dust!
These are thy glorious works! Parent of good,
Almighty; thine this universal frame,
Thus wondrous fair; Thyself how wondrous then!”
Parties generally take cold meat with them, and a bottle either of Wine,
or Spirits, and dine at the Spring or Well near the side of the Quellyn
Copper path, about two hundred yards below Bwlch Glas gap, where the
Copper Ore Bin is situated.
Wyddfa, (pronounced Withva) is the Welsh name of Snowdon; and it is
sometimes, though improperly, called Eryri, which appears to have been
the general appellation in former days, of the whole range of mountains
from Conway to Clynog: Two different derivations are generally given of
the word Eryri, one is Eryr, an Eagle; and the other Eira, or Eiri, Snow;
which is the most correct we will not pretend to determine, but it
appears that the person who originally translated the word, considered
the latter to be the genuine etymology. The distance from Dolbadern
Castle to the summit, may be about six miles; two to the Turbary flat in
Waun Cwm Brwynog, two to Clogwyn Coch Copper mine, and two from thence to
the top. There are two other routs from the Village, which ought not to
be attempted except by active young men; one up the steep declivity just
above the Church, and the other through Hafn (pronounced Haven) Mawr,
near the Old Bridge, (Bont Vawr). The height of Snowdon, above
High-water mark at Carnarvon, is 3591 Feet.